How to build an economical shed. How to build a shed: detailed step-by-step instructions with photos. Step-by-step instructions for building a frame shed with a pitched roof

Every owner of a summer cottage has a need to erect a building in which to store garden tools and other things necessary for business activities. A DIY barn can be used to house poultry, rabbits, pigs or goats. A workshop or warehouse for storing crops is often set up here. In the utility block you can equip a toilet with a shower, adding a bath room to the building.

Such a building can be temporary or permanent. The second option requires drawing up a project for a shed linked to the site plan. The structure can be intended for specific purposes or be multifunctional, consisting of several compartments. The building is quite often used as a barn for keeping livestock and feed supplies. There are special requirements for the construction of such structures.

A multifunctional building most often consists of several zones where storage space is organized, a toilet and shower are equipped. By adding a veranda or terrace, you can expand the functionality of the structure by creating a place for relaxing and eating.

A number of requirements are put forward for an outbuilding in the form of a barn. The structure must be erected quickly and cheaply. Despite the fact that it is classified as non-residential, the structure must be solid, reliable and durable, and have the minimum comfortable conditions necessary for further operation. Depending on its purpose, the building must be insulated to the required extent. The size of the shed should be selected based on the dimensions of the site and the purpose of the building. It must ensure comfortable and free movement of a person.

Helpful advice! You should not build a structure that is too high. However, it should be taken into account that a person must move in it at full height, without bending.

The construction of the barn is carried out taking into account technical, sanitary and fire safety requirements. If gas cylinders, flammable liquids and other combustible materials will be stored here, you should take a particularly responsible approach to the issue of fire safety. An important role in utility units is assigned to the proper organization of good ventilation.

How to build a barn at the dacha: construction technologies

There are three options for building a shed in the country:

  • monolithic technology;
  • frame construction;
  • modular method.

Monolithic technology consists of erecting a structure from building elements in the form of cinder blocks, foam concrete and aerated concrete, brick, cobblestones or log frames. This method allows you to obtain a high-strength, capital and durable building, which will be quite expensive. You can speed up construction while reducing costs by using cinder blocks or foam blocks. Such masonry is used quite often today for large structures with an area of ​​20 m² or more.

The most popular method for building sheds is frame technology. Its principle is to create a strong frame, which is the skeleton of the building, from wooden beams or profile pipes, followed by covering it with panels, panels, slabs or wood. This type of DIY shed construction is carried out at a fast pace and is relatively inexpensive. At the same time, the proper strength and reliability of the structure is ensured.

The modular method involves assembling a house from ready-made modules, which can be made of metal or plastic, as shown in photos of beautiful sheds. The elements are fastened to each other through the use of special parts. The main feature of such structures is their mobility. The building can be disassembled and moved to another location.

How to build a barn with your own hands: preparatory activities

Before making a barn, you should plan the site area and determine the location of the future structure. This issue has its own characteristics. The barn is being built on an area not used for growing summer cottage crops. The building should not be located in a low area. In the event of heavy precipitation, the building will be subject to constant flooding.

Depending on the purpose of the shed, it must be located at a remote distance from the residential building and the interface with the neighboring plot, which is regulated by current regulatory documentation.

Then you will need to draw up a plan for the future construction with the design of the premises. All sizes should be listed here. You can make the drawing yourself, taking into account personal preferences, or use ready-made standard designs for a garden shed presented on specialized websites.

The next step is to compile (based on the do-it-yourself barn drawings) a list of building materials, which depends on the construction technology of the structure. For frame construction, the amount of material required to create the frame of the structure and finish the building is calculated. In the case of using a monolithic option, the number of masonry materials and the amount of mortar that will be needed to complete the work are determined.

Building a foundation for a barn with your own hands

Under the shed, you can make one of two types of foundation: strip or columnar. The first option is suitable for permanent frame structures with a concrete base. Light buildings are recommended to be placed on a columnar base.

Important! Strip foundations cannot be erected in areas with sedimentary soil or peat.

The step-by-step technology for laying a strip foundation for a barn with your own hands is as follows:

  • making markings for the future building according to its dimensions;
  • preparing a trench 40 cm deep and 30 cm wide;
  • filling the depression with a layer of sand and crushed stone 15 cm high;
  • strengthening the bottom and side walls with roofing felt;

  • installation of formwork around the perimeter of the trench;
  • laying a reinforcing frame in the form of a box of 12 mm thick rods over the entire area of ​​the recess;
  • pouring concrete mortar.

Important! The foundation must protrude above the ground level to the height of the plinth.

After two to three weeks, you will be able to start building a barn at your dacha with your own hands.

Installation of a columnar base involves the following steps:

  • making holes 80 cm deep under the foundation pillars at the corners of the structure and at the junction of partitions, which should be spaced at least 1.5 m;
  • filling the bottom of the holes with a layer of crushed stone or gravel with sand 15 cm thick;
  • installing pieces of metal or asbestos-cement pipe or roofing felt sleeves into the holes;

  • filling the space between the stand and the ground with sand and gravel;
  • filling the pipe cavity with reinforcement 10-12 mm thick, tied with 2 mm wire;
  • pouring pipes with concrete.

Helpful advice! To improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life, the support pillars should be coated with special mastic.

The posts can be made of brick or concrete blocks. You can also use oak or larch logs with a thickness of at least 300 mm. Wooden products must be carefully treated with an antiseptic. The lower part of the logs, which is buried in the ground, is covered with bitumen mastic and wrapped in several layers of roofing material. After installing the posts in the holes, the wooden supports are filled with concrete.

Frame barn: features of construction technology

Frame technology is very popular in the construction of sheds, according to which the skeleton of the building is erected, which is subsequently sheathed with finishing material. The frame is made of wood or metal. The last option is used to create a shed from corrugated sheets with your own hands. Wooden frame construction, which is characterized by increased strength and the ability to withstand significant loads, is widespread.

Frame technology makes it possible to erect a structure in a short time with minimal costs. Since wood is a high-tech raw material, it becomes possible to add additional elements. The material is quite durable, has high thermal insulation characteristics and is environmentally friendly.

Wood is characterized by hygroscopicity, which contributes to high moisture absorption with the formation of rot, mold and fungal infections. Therefore, the material needs to be treated with special moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds, and to extend its service life it can be coated with an outer protective layer of varnish or paint.

The durability and design of the shed directly depend on the cost of materials. You can build a barn cheaply and quickly with your own hands from unedged spruce, birch or pine boards, but the building will have an unsightly appearance. A more aesthetic structure will be made from high-quality material in the form of edged boards, profiled timber or lining.

We build a barn with our own hands using frame technology

After the base for the shed has completely hardened, you can begin to build the frame of the wooden shed with your own hands. Its production begins with the lower frame, which will serve as the basis for the future structure. Therefore, for its manufacture you should use high-quality wooden beams without knots and mechanical damage.

Before you make a shed from boards with your own hands, you need to waterproof the foundation. To do this, the base must be covered with two sheets of roofing material. This procedure will protect the wooden frame from dampness.

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The lower frame is created from timber with a section of 100x100 mm. In the corners, the elements are attached using dowels. Logs made of boards with a cross section of 50x100 mm are attached to the strapping crown at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The next step is the construction of wooden racks from timber of the same cross-section as for the lower frame. They are fixed using overhead metal plates or can be nailed obliquely.

Important! If a pitched roof is installed, wooden posts are installed at different heights, which will facilitate further roofing work.

The distance between wooden posts should not exceed 1.5 m. 0.6 m is considered optimal. In this case, each support will coincide with the upper floor beams and become a reliable basis for the roof. To create additional rigidity, struts are attached to the vertical posts and the lower frame using bolted connections. In the upper part, at a distance of 2 m from the lower crown, the racks are tied by creating a wooden frame. Door and window openings are formed using vertical posts and horizontal crossbars. The distance between them is determined by the dimensions of the structure.

To create the frame of a shed, not only wooden beams can be used. Here you can use a steel pipe, angle or profile. The order of constructing the frame in this case remains unchanged. The only difference is that all metal elements are connected to each other by electric welding. Such a frame does not require the construction of a foundation. It can be installed on a sand and gravel embankment.

Helpful advice! The metal frame should be painted before covering. The exception is galvanized profiles.

Do-it-yourself floor and walls of a wooden building at the dacha

After creating the frame and laying the joists, you can begin installing the floor. For a cold shed made of boards with your own hands, it is advisable to use OSB sheets, which are nailed to the joists. Waterproofing in the form of a sheet of roofing material is laid on top of them. Next, a finishing floor is made from tongue-and-groove or edged boards. The first option is more preferable due to the fact that there are special grooves at the ends of the boards that eliminate the possibility of cracks forming, thereby increasing the strength of the floor.

The floor can be insulated. To do this, use mineral wool, expanded clay or polystyrene foam, which are laid before installing the floor covering. To do this, OSB slabs are lined with lags from below. This process is carried out before the stage of erecting the frame racks. If this moment was missed, then the subfloor made of this material is filled with logs on top. A counter-lattice is mounted on the slabs, which is necessary to create cells in which the insulation is laid. Waterproofing is laid underneath it on the subfloor. The top of the insulation is covered with a layer of vapor barrier. Next, the clean floor is installed.

Helpful advice! The height of the insulation should be slightly less than the height of the joist to provide a ventilated gap between it and the floor covering.

Before finishing the walls, the frame must be strengthened with permanent jibs. They are especially needed if the structure will be sheathed with boards or clapboards. The jibs are installed at an angle of 45°, which provides better structural rigidity. Near doors or windows it is allowed to maintain an angle of 60°. The joining of elements to the frame is carried out “in a paw” or “half-tree”, which eliminates the formation of gaps.

Important! Before fastening the jibs, you should check the evenness of the corners of the frame using a building level or plumb line.

After completing the installation of the jibs and flooring, the walls are insulated. To do this, use polystyrene foam or mineral wool. On the room side, the material is covered with a vapor barrier followed by cladding, and on the street side - with waterproofing, to which a counter-lattice made of planks with a cross-section of 20x40 mm is nailed to create a ventilation gap.

Do-it-yourself roof installation for a frame barn

To create a shed roof with your own hands, wooden boards with a section of 50x100 mm are used, from which the rafters are made. It is most convenient to assemble the structure on the ground and fix it ready-made on the frame posts. The rafters are attached at a distance of 0.7-0.8 m from each other. The sheathing is mounted on top of them. To do this, strips of unedged boards are installed with a gap of 15-20 cm from each other (in the case of using slate as a roofing material). If rolled products are used, then the lathing pitch should not exceed 2-3 cm.

Important! The sheathing must be covered with waterproofing material.

You can do without rafters. To do this, the front wall of the frame is made 50 cm higher than the back wall, as shown in the drawing of a 3x6 do-it-yourself dacha barn with a pitched roof. In this case, the floor beams are placed on the top frame at a certain slope. They will act as rafters. With this option, it is necessary to organize an overhang of the roof, which is ensured by overlapping the beams by 50 cm in front and behind the structure.

To obtain an attic space, a gable roof is erected over the barn, which is formed by triangular rafters that are attached to the upper frame frame. In this case, the front and rear walls of the frame must have the same height.

Types of roofing for a country shed

You can use metal tiles, slate, ondulin, flexible tiles, roofing felt or corrugated sheets as roofing for a barn at your dacha with your own hands. One of the most budget-friendly options is slate, which is characterized by durability, good strength, and weather resistance. However, it is quite fragile and therefore requires careful handling. When installing it, there is no need to stuff a reliable sheathing. The material has low aesthetic properties, which is not so important for a barn in the country.

Metal tiles are also an inexpensive material that is characterized by durability, a wide range and attractive appearance. When installing the coating, you should be wary of scratches and other damage, which will become a prerequisite for the formation of corrosion.

The professional sheet is similar in its technical and operational characteristics to metal tiles. However, it costs much less and has a simpler appearance, which is clearly shown in the photo of a do-it-yourself shed made from corrugated sheets.

A cheap and simple roofing covering is rolled roofing felt. It is characterized by ease of installation, carried out in several layers, and low aesthetics. Soft slate is represented by ondulin, which is lightweight, flexible, easy to install and has an aesthetic appearance. However, the material is flammable.

Flexible metal tiles have good performance and aesthetic characteristics. However, the material has a relatively high cost, so it is not practical to use it as a roofing covering for a barn.

How to inexpensively cover the outside of a shed: popular options

To cover frame wooden sheds with your own hands, you can use lining, wooden boards, OSB sheets or profiled sheets.

The most popular and cheapest option is to use unedged boards. They are dissolved into elements of the required size, which are used to make the outer cladding of the frame. However, over time, cracks form in such cladding, which can be closed with wooden planks. But it is better to do the sheathing with overlapping herringbone boards. With this technology, each subsequent row of boards is placed on the lower tier with its own edge.

OSB boards are a little more expensive, but easier to cut and install. It is important to arrange the elements so that their joints are in the center of the frame posts. This material does not deform under the influence of moisture and does not rot. However, to create additional protection and give the structure a more attractive appearance, the surface should be coated with paint.

To organize a cold warehouse, you can use a profiled sheet, the elements of which are attached to a wooden frame with self-tapping screws. The sheets should be overlapped by 15-20 cm. If the structure is used for keeping animals or as a workshop, the walls of the barn made of corrugated sheets are sheathed from the inside with insulating material.

A polycarbonate barn is being built for indoor poultry walking. The technology for installing honeycomb plastic is similar to installing OSB boards. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a wide head and a sealing washer.

Budget-friendly and environmentally friendly options for frame cladding

One of the cheapest and most popular materials in rural areas is pressed straw blocks, which are also environmentally friendly. Such bricks are treated with a special compound that protects them from fire. They have good strength and ability to retain heat. Straw bricks fill the gaps in the wooden frame, so when constructing it, intermediate posts are installed.

The resulting timber barn walls are finished with clay plaster, which is applied to a steel mesh fixed on top of the straw. Thatched construction is characterized by minimal cost, and in terms of thermal characteristics it is superior to sheds made of cellular concrete and brick.

Another budget option is to use sawdust concrete. To do this, a smooth and durable formwork is constructed from OSB sheets, which is securely attached to the building frame. Next, layer-by-layer pouring of a mixture of sawdust and cement mortar is carried out in a ratio of 2:1.

You can make a cheap and at the same time environmentally friendly shed for domestic animals using a clay pot. This is a mixture of clay, wood and cement-sand mortar, which fills the voids in the frame of the structure. The result is a durable structure with high energy-saving performance.

DIY shed made of foam blocks: main advantages

For the construction of solid outbuildings, blocks of cellular gas or foam concrete are most often used. The main advantages of the material are:

  • large size of products, which allows you to perform work quickly and conveniently;
  • precise geometry, reducing the labor intensity of the process;
  • light product weight of 11 kg;
  • low thermal conductivity due to the porous structure of the material, which allows it to retain heat for a long time;
  • increased frost resistance;
  • good sound insulation properties;
  • high hygroscopicity, which allows the material to breathe, removing water vapor outside, while preventing the possibility of mold and dampness in the room;
  • non-flammability;
  • flexibility of the product when sawing (due to the porous base);
  • environmental friendliness of the material;
  • low cost.

However, the material can be used for buildings no higher than 10 m, which is due to the limited strength of the material. Another drawback is the unattractive appearance of the products, which requires additional finishing of the walls of the barn for a summer residence with your own hands from foam blocks.

How to make a barn with your own hands from foam blocks

Before building a shed from foam blocks, a strip foundation is erected, the manufacturing technology of which is described above. The blocks are laid on a waterproofing material covering the base. In this case, you can use roofing felt or waterproofing material. To lay the blocks, you should prepare an adhesive mixture, which consists of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:3. The first row starts from the corner of the building and continues along its entire perimeter. The thickness of the seam between products should not exceed 30 mm. After laying the first row, the wall is checked for evenness using a level.

Helpful advice! To obtain a durable and strong structure, after every third row, reinforcement bars with a diameter of 80 mm are laid on the blocks.

The last row is covered with waterproofing material. Next is the creation of the roof of the barn. For a small building (no more than 3 m wide), a lean-to option is suitable. For do-it-yourself sheds 6 by 6 m, it is better to equip a gable roof, the installation description of which is given below.

Using metal pins, a mauerlat in the form of a wooden beam with a cross-section of 50x150 mm is attached to the top row of the masonry. The distance between the studs should not be more than 120 cm. Outer trusses are installed on the mauerlat, which form pediments. For ease of installation, the rafters are assembled on the ground and then raised for installation. All elements should be connected to each other using metal fasteners and overlays. The installed rafter structure is covered with a waterproofing membrane, on top of which the sheathing is placed. The selected roofing material is attached to it.

Next, you insulate the outer surface of the walls of the dacha building with your own hands using the selected material. Most often, foam boards are used, which are glued using a special compound. Slopes of windows and doors should be strengthened using aluminum angles. Next, the insulation is covered with an adhesive mass 3-4 mm thick, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded. After the surface has completely dried, which occurs after 48 hours, the walls are plastered and painted. They can also be sheathed with siding or corrugated sheets, which will give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.

Other options for block material for building a shed

An alternative to foam concrete blocks is wood concrete. It is often used for the construction of utility rooms. The material is characterized by increased strength, high vapor permeability, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to rodents and mold. At the same time, in comparison with foam concrete, it is less fragile. The material has low frost resistance and moisture resistance.

To build a 3 by 3 m shed with your own hands, you can use brick. The material is reliable, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, durable and resistant to rodents and mold. Having an attractive appearance, walls made of brick do not require subsequent cladding. However, brick has a high cost. Bricklaying is a labor-intensive process. In addition, the material is characterized by significant weight, which requires the construction of a reliable base, and this will entail additional costs.

To construct an outbuilding, you can use stone from a quarry, which is laid on a cement-sand mortar. Such a structure cannot be called warm, so it requires additional insulation from the inside with mineral wool. The outer surface of the walls can be covered with clapboard.

How to make a barn for your dacha from logs, beams or sleepers

You can build a barn with your own hands from logs or timber. The material is characterized by high thermal insulation properties, so it can be used to equip a workshop or place for year-round keeping of animals. The service life of the structure can reach 70 years. The assembly of the structure must be carried out by specialists to eliminate the possibility of errors and blunders in the work.

Important! Firewood should not be stored in a log or lumber shed because there is insufficient ventilation in the room to dry the heating oil.

For the construction of a building at the dacha, a beam with a cross section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm is suitable. The elements are laid on a strip or column foundation. The first crown is treated with an antiseptic. The bars are cut to half the width of the product, which ensures good grip. The length of the elements must match the width of the wall. In logs, recesses are made in the shape of a semicircle or angle along the entire length. Between the rows it is necessary to lay a layer of insulating material. Tow or jute is used for this. To ensure structural strength, the crowns must be connected to each other with dowels, which is clearly shown in the photo of barns made of timber.

The shed can be made from old wooden sleepers. Such a structure will be solid and durable. The walls are built by stacking sleepers on top of each other. In the corners, the elements are tied using steel staples, which are driven into the upper edges of the beams, connecting the joined crowns. Along the perimeter, staples are driven into the side faces of the elements.

There is another installation option. To do this, one part of the sleepers is dug into the ground along the perimeter of the building. The remaining elements are cut at the ends with a chainsaw so as to form a spike. A groove is formed on the pillars by hammering two beams onto the sleepers. Next, sleepers are inserted into the prepared grooves. The elements are fixed together using staples.

Prefabricated barn for a summer residence: design features

A prefabricated shed is made from individual elements according to the principle of a designer. The cost of such a structure will exceed the costs required for the construction of a frame or block structure. The buildings are characterized by mobility and high speed of construction. A do-it-yourself prefabricated shed (photos clearly demonstrate the different options) can be made on the basis of:

  • sandwich panels;
  • SIP panels;
  • plastic panels.

SIP panels consist of two layers of wood, between which insulation is placed. Sandwich panels have the same structure, only metal sheets are located on the sides of the insulating material.

The first stage of assembling the structure involves creating a frame. Then standard elements specially made for a specific construction option are attached to it. The assembly of the structure is carried out on the basis of detailed instructions with a drawing.

SIP panels can be made independently. For this you will need OSB boards, foam plastic, glue and wooden beams. Assembly takes place according to the “sandwich” principle. An adhesive composition is applied to the OSB sheet laid flat. Foam plastic is laid on it in such a way that there is free space along the contour of the product for the joining beam. Glue is applied to the insulation, and then the second sheet is laid. The load is distributed evenly over the entire area on top of the resulting structure.

Plastic shed for a summer residence: characteristics of the structure

This beautiful shed is made from frost-resistant composite plastic, which is characterized by strength, wear resistance, reliability and practicality. The material is resistant to sunlight, moisture, is not subject to corrosion and attack by harmful insects, and mold and mildew do not form on it. Despite its light weight, such a structure can withstand constant and long-term loads. For a long service life, plastic, unlike wood, does not need to be treated with special compounds. If used correctly, such a building will last at least 15 years.

The roof ridge is made of transparent material, making the room light during the day. The design is characterized by passive ventilation, which ensures the unhindered movement of air masses inside the barn, so that the air does not stagnate and the room remains dry. The service life of the structure is about 25 years. The plastic structure is suitable for creating a workshop or storage area for garden tools. It is not recommended to use this building for keeping animals, due to its small area and lack of insulation.

Modern models of plastic sheds for summer cottages - the photos clearly confirm this - attract attention with their neat and stylish appearance. Such a shed can become a real decoration of a summer cottage. This design can be assembled without outside help in 2 hours. The work is carried out without the use of additional fasteners, complex tools or welding. There is no need to build a foundation for this structure. The object is mobile, which makes it possible to transport the structure to a new location.

Helpful advice! You should not move a plastic shed frequently, as its fastenings will become loose, as a result of which the structure will lose its proper strength and reliability.

Ready-made shed in the form of a container: compact and functional structure

Today you can purchase a ready-made metal shed for a container-type garden. The basis of such a monoblock structure is a rigid metal frame, sheathed on the sides with metal with an insulating layer where the electrical wiring is laid. This shed looks like a container.

The internal contents of different models may vary significantly. There are models with shelves in a barn, which resembles a pantry. Some designs are equipped with a canopy to create an open terrace. It is possible to purchase a ready-made shed for a summer residence with a toilet and shower. Multifunctional containers are recommended to be used as a small country house while the main building is being built. The container can be sold later.

Installation of the finished structure does not require the construction of a foundation. It can be placed on a concrete slab. The container is delivered ready-made and installed using a truck crane. Such sheds have a high cost and not very attractive appearance, which is compensated by the durability and practicality of the structure.

Animal sheds: design features and requirements for them

Animal sheds belong to a separate category of outbuildings, which are subject to special requirements. The building for domestic animals should be well ventilated. This is primarily due to the large amount of animal droppings located indoors. It is chemically active and releases ammonia. The consistency of droppings and the speed at which they dry out vary for different animal species. The barn can be additionally equipped with a place for storing litter and manure, which are valuable fertilizers.

The location of the livestock shed on the site is strictly regulated by regulatory documentation. The structure must withstand significant loads and mechanical stress. This especially applies to cowsheds. You should also take into account that some species of animals like to chew wood. Therefore, you should not build a shed from wood additionally impregnated with bactericidal and water-repellent compounds, which can be destructive for some species of animals.

For chickens, the building must be made of chemical-resistant material and equipped with good ventilation. For pigs, a prefabricated wooden barn with a reinforced frame is suitable. A wooden shed is not advisable for goats. The barn should be warm and secure. It can be done on a strip foundation made of block material with subsequent insulation.

A barn in a country house is an indispensable multifunctional structure that can be built from any building material. The installation technology directly depends on the purpose of the building, its size and the financial capabilities of the owners. To build a shed in a country house, the price of which will depend on the type of building, it is important to use high-quality material and follow the algorithm of actions when constructing a structure of the chosen type. If you have good financial resources, you can purchase a ready-made mobile shed for a turnkey summer cottage in the form of a container or a set of structural parts for self-assembly.

Video “How to build a shed cheaply with your own hands”

A barn is one of the most important and useful outbuildings. In this building you can store various kinds of garden supplies, barbecue, garden and home care products, and tools. If you really want to, you can even install a toilet and a summer shower in the barn.

With proper preparation, building a shed will not take much time or money. There are several types of such outbuildings. Beginners are recommended to give preference to frame structures - they are the easiest to construct.

Instructions for arranging a frame shed will be given below. Read the instructions and get started.

Choosing a location for a shed

When choosing a location for your shed, use personal preference. Some owners prefer it when the barn is located in some nook of the site. For others, it is more convenient when the barn is located next to the house.

It is most rational to build a shed on an area that is least suitable for growing garden and various types of agricultural crops. You can find a similar place in almost any area.

At the stage of choosing a place for arranging a shed, take into account the location of other zones of the land plot, take into account the dimensions of the building being erected and its external data. Try to ensure that the shed fits well into its surroundings and blends harmoniously with nearby buildings.


Set for work

  1. Wood processing machine. You can do without a machine, but with it the work will be faster and easier.
  2. Electric jigsaw.
  3. Hand-held circular saw.
  4. Electric planer.
  5. Screwdriver.
  6. Electric drill.
  7. Chain Saw.
  8. Boards.
  9. Logs.
  10. Ruberoid.
  11. Fastening elements.
  12. Switches.
  13. PVA glue.
  14. Sockets.
  15. Oilcloth.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Foundation

Any building structure needs a reliable and durable foundation that can support its weight.

Columnar, monolithic, strip and pile-screw type bases are suitable for arranging a shed. A columnar foundation is suitable in most cases, so experts recommend giving preference to this particular design.


Mark the area for the foundation. Any suitable pegs, cord and tape measure will help you with this.

Using a tape measure, measure the sides of the figure and its diagonals. The length of the elements must be the same.

Dig holes 500-700 mm deep around the perimeter of the marked area, in the corners, as well as at the intersection points of the internal partitions (sometimes deeper, depending on the level of soil freezing) for installation. The optimal spacing of the pillars is 1.2-1.5 m.

Build supports from asbestos pipes filled with reinforcement and concrete, or brick pillars - choose at your discretion.

Make sure that the pillars are installed evenly using a building level, fill the space around the pillars in the pits with a sand-gravel mixture to approximately 150 mm of the height of the recess, and fill the remaining space.




Leave the foundation to gain strength for several days.

Before backfilling and concreting, you can treat the support columns with a special mastic. It will help improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life.

Start assembling the frame of the future shed. Pre-soak all wooden elements with an antiseptic. The best option is impregnation with color. This product is simply more convenient to use - untreated areas will be clearly visible.

Place a timber support on the dry base. Select the dimensions of the timber in accordance with the dimensions of the shed being built.


Base - foundation and perimeter made of timber

Lay the timber on support posts, previously covered with waterproofing material (roofing felt). Fasten the columns in any suitable way at your discretion.


Lay wooden boards 3-4 cm thick on the frame. At this stage of work, the main thing is to cut out parts of the boards near the vertical posts as carefully as possible.

Attach the boards to the floorboards “in secret”.

When determining the required number of support posts, take into account the presence of openings for installing double-glazed windows and doors, as well as the number of corners of the structure.


Place the beams strictly according to the building level. For leveling, use slope sticks. They will allow you to provide temporary fixation of the bars in the required position. Use nails to temporarily fasten elements together. Hammer them in approximately half the length so that in the future there will be no difficulties in dismantling the temporary supports.


Attach vertical support posts to the bottom frame frame. Fixation is carried out using corners, self-tapping screws, and pins extending from the base.

The frame can also be built on brick supports. In this case, first, several rows of brickwork are built around the perimeter of the foundation, and then wooden vertical posts are installed on them.


Use an electric planer to plan the three inner sides of the vertical beam. Bevel the sides facing the interior of the shed. Leave untreated only the sides that will later be sheathed with external boards.

Roofing and wall cladding


Attach the top portion of the shed frame to the exposed vertical support posts. Pre-prepare cuts in the timber according to the size of the posts. Fix the connections with corners and self-tapping screws.

Traditionally, barns are equipped with roofing structures. In this case, the length of the wooden posts on one side should exceed the length of the opposite supports.


This placement will further contribute to the effective removal of sedimentary moisture from the roof surface.

Build a roofing structure from boards 4-5 cm thick. The length of the rafters should be approximately 50 cm longer than the length of the frame.

In the places where the rafters meet the beams, make cuts first. Lay the rafters on the frame and secure with self-tapping screws. The installation pitch of the rafters is 40-50 cm.

Treat the frame with an antiseptic. Attach batten boards to the frame. Boards measuring 2.5x15 cm are optimal.


A roof made of boards requires a mandatory layer arrangement. Traditionally, roofing felt is used for moisture insulation. If you plan to install a more beautiful finishing coating, use polyethylene film for waterproofing.

Choose the finishing coating at your discretion. You can lay corrugated sheets, euro slate, etc.


Lining is suitable for covering the walls of a building; chipboard, boards and other similar materials can also be fixed. First, sheathe the front side of the shed, and then line the side and rear walls. Attach the boards without gaps.


If necessary, sand the outside of the boards with an electric planer. Typically, such treatment is only needed when covering walls with boards. Thanks to this, the material will become more attractive in appearance, and rain will linger much less on a smooth surface.

If you wish, you can paint the walls of the shed. Oil and water-based compositions are best suited for painting such buildings.


Carry out the interior arrangement of the finished shed at your own discretion. If the building is intended to store various kinds of tools and accessories, install convenient racks and shelves around the perimeter. Shelving allows you to make the most of the available space and easily access the things you need.

You can buy racks and shelves ready-made or make them yourself, for example, from boards, fiberboard, leftover furniture, etc.

At this point the barn is ready. All you have to do is bring it to it, if necessary, and install the required devices.

Good luck!

Prices for popular types of corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheet

Video - How to build a barn with your own hands

In a private household or on a summer cottage, an area is always allocated for placing vegetable gardens, flower beds, beds, greenhouses and other areas for growing crops and ornamental plants. To cultivate this farm, a large amount of gardening tools is required, as well as bulky equipment for field work. All these items need to be stored somewhere. It is inconvenient to place such equipment in a residential building. Therefore, the best option for storage would be an outbuilding.

Design features and purpose of the utility unit

In past decades, small outbuildings made of wood or metal were used to store gardening tools. As a rule, these structures had a small area and looked more like a box with doors. Alternatively, all gardening utensils were kept in the shed.

Today, special attention is paid to the construction of outbuildings. Modern designs of utility units combine compactness, practicality, convenience and even beauty.

The structure of the utility unit can be finished with modern materials, then it will have a neat and beautiful appearance

Household buildings have a wide range of applications, and in some cases they are an indispensable structure for economic and domestic needs. Taking into account the everyday needs of private households, we can highlight several main areas of use of utility units:


On the Internet you can find a lot of ready-made projects for utility blocks, combined with other necessary buildings.

To effectively use every centimeter inside the utility room, racks, shelves are made, and hooks and loops are hung. It is convenient to place a cellar in such a structure.

If the roof of an outbuilding is equipped with a rafter system in which the distance from the floor beams to the ridge boards allows you to place any objects, then this area can be conveniently used for drying fruit or as an attic space.

Rational placement of shelves and racks will allow you to use the internal space of the utility unit to one hundred percent

Tips for choosing materials for the manufacture of all structural elements of the utility unit

Buildings for household needs are usually made of wood, metal, foam blocks or profile sheets. These materials can be combined, which makes construction work more convenient and efficient. Despite the fact that such a structure does not place a large load on the ground, it requires the installation of a solid foundation. Concrete pillars or screw piles are usually used as a permanent foundation for outbuildings.

As a rule, such buildings have a frame structure. The cheapest way to make it is from wooden blocks. However, wood must be carefully treated with antifungal agents before use. Although this option is the most budget-friendly, it has a significant drawback, which is that wooden buildings are extremely unstable to open fire. In this regard, many owners of private households prefer a metal frame.

To implement a metal structure project, you will need significantly more money, as well as skills in working with a welding machine. This building material is much stronger, but it also has its drawbacks. The main disadvantage of metal structures is that they are susceptible to metal corrosion. To protect such a frame from rust, it is necessary to coat it with an anti-corrosion compound. For additional protection, you can paint the entire surface of the structure.

Wooden blocks are the cheapest building material, but they must be treated with antiseptic impregnations

The following is used as a covering material for frame structures:

  1. Profiled steel sheets. This material has many protective layers that extend its service life by preventing corrosion processes. The thickness, shape and height of the waves of corrugated sheets are adapted for placement as walls and roofs of a building. Please note that incorrect installation of profiled material will lead to corrosion. To avoid this unpleasant circumstance, it is necessary to use special self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket, which tightly press the material and at the same time form a waterproofing layer.

    Depending on the purpose, conditions and region of application, you can select corrugated sheeting with the necessary characteristics of a protective coating

  2. Bituminous shingles. However, this coating will require the installation of insulation, vapor barrier layers, as well as an additional base of OSB boards. They are easily mounted on the roof surface; no special knowledge or additional help is required. Bituminous shingles are a relatively lightweight coating, so a complex rafter system with high load-bearing capacity is not required as a base.

    Bituminous shingles are made from modern composite materials, so they have high strength and long service life

  3. Slate. This material will not look as aesthetically pleasing as bitumen shingles or corrugated sheets. Slate is a rather fragile material, and therefore large hail or a tree branch falling on the roof can cause cracks or through holes in the covering. Given these circumstances, it is advisable to use slate only as a last resort or as a temporary covering.

If foam blocks are chosen as a building material for the walls of an outbuilding, then to build this structure you must have bricklaying skills. This material is often used for such work, since the block is much larger than brick, so it is possible to build a structure of the required height faster.

Foam block is much larger in size than brick, so you can build a utility block from this material much faster

The disadvantages of foam blocks are their higher price, as well as transportation conditions. To deliver the purchased material, you will need to use a truck and a crane.

If you plan to place a shower stall in the utility room, then you need to take care of purchasing moisture-resistant materials. This will require moisture-resistant drywall, as well as insulation materials that do not collapse under such conditions. The interior decoration of this room can be made of ceramic tiles, plastic panels or noble wood, such as oak, aspen or larch.

Design of utility block structures

The design of the utility unit will play an important role in the future, eliminating incorrect calculation of materials and unforeseen costs. If you have a limited budget, the most profitable option would be to build a frame structure made of wood. Such buildings do not require laying deep foundations. On unstable types of soil, it is enough to make a columnar foundation or a pile-screw foundation.

The project of the utility block must contain a drawing indicating all the dimensions of the building, its layout and a detailed image of all components

To design a future outbuilding, you need to choose the right location. It is best to place such a structure on a small hill. This will protect the wooden frame and interior from excess moisture accumulated after melting snow or heavy rains. If there is no area with a hill, then it can be created artificially. To do this, fragments of bricks are poured and covered with earth. If several such layers are made, they will serve as an effective drainage system. To protect the inside of the utility room floor from rodents, you can fill up glass fragments along with broken bricks, which will become a reliable barrier for small animals.

The location of the future building depends on the purpose of its use. If it is planned to attach a poultry house, shower cabin or toilet to the utility block, then the minimum distance of its location from the residential building will be 12 m, and from the border of the neighbors’ territory - 4 m. The best option for combining such utility areas is to arrange them in the following order: shower compartment , utility room, toilet. In this case, the room for household purposes should be located in the middle, since the adjacent buildings will be equipped with water pipes and a cesspool. If the area of ​​the plot does not allow placing several buildings for household needs, then the utility block can be built with several levels. In this case, the ground floor will be occupied by a cellar, and on the ground floor there will be an outbuilding with a summer kitchen and a veranda.

The outbuilding, being a small structure, will not take up much space on the site. However, a well-designed structure will allow it to be rationally placed on the territory of the household, thereby saving precious meters on the site. Sometimes it is convenient to build a corner structure for a utility block, and if it combines a shower and toilet, then you can achieve the maximum arrangement of useful utility areas in a small area.

The corner utility unit is conveniently placed on the site and saves space

At the design stage of the utility block structure, it is necessary to take into account the methods of ventilation and lighting of the premises. To do this, just make a couple of small windows inside. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the outbuilding should be easy to use. In the drawings and design diagrams, it is necessary to provide entrance doors of such a width that a garden wheelbarrow can easily pass through them.

A large, roomy utility unit will take up less space if you make it corner

Step-by-step instructions for making a utility block on the site with your own hands

The construction of the frame structure of an outbuilding is carried out in several stages, which are conventionally divided into:

  1. Preparing the foundation for future construction. This stage consists of studying the soil in order to select the right type of foundation, as well as carrying out excavation work and pouring a concrete foundation. If the utility block combines a toilet and shower, then you will need to dig a pit and make trenches for sewer pipes.
  2. Manufacturing of frame structures. At this stage, the upper and lower trim, support posts and cross beams will be designed.
  3. Installation of flooring. This stage includes strengthening the joists and laying the subfloor.
  4. Construction of building walls, external and internal coverings, as well as installation of insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier layers.
  5. Making a roof. At this stage, floor beams are installed and the rafter system is manufactured.
  6. Roof installation. These works include fastening the roofing material using modern technologies.

List of tools required for making a utility unit

When erecting a frame structure of a utility block, the following tools and construction equipment will be required:

  1. Bayonet and shovel.
  2. Garden drill.
  3. Wheelbarrow.
  4. Containers for concrete mixture, water and construction waste.
  5. Yardstick.
  6. Building level.
  7. Large square.
  8. Plumb.
  9. Marker or pencil.
  10. Hacksaw.
  11. Cord.
  12. Plane.
  13. Sanding machine or sandpaper.
  14. Big hammer.
  15. Electric drill.
  16. Concrete mixing machine.
  17. Tamping.
  18. Screwdriver.
  19. Metal scissors.
  20. Sharp knife.
  21. Chisel.
  22. Clamps.
  23. Calculator.

Making the foundation

Before starting earthworks, it is necessary to examine the properties and qualities of the soil. If you do not do this, you may choose the wrong type of foundation. In this case, the building may sag unevenly, become deformed, shift during winter fluctuations in ground level, or collapse.

In order to investigate the type of soil on a site, it is enough to drill a control well and study a soil sample

To carry out this check, it is necessary to involve specialists. For testing, samples of a soil layer up to 3 m thick are removed. The dimensions of the extracted samples can be larger or smaller. The main criterion for choosing the drilling depth is to reach the level of freezing of the soil or groundwater.

  1. If the soil contains a large amount of clay, then in winter it will be subject to swelling. In this case, it is more advisable to install a columnar base.

    A concrete pillar can be replaced with brick or stone masonry, but in any case the foundation must be placed on a sand cushion at a depth depending on the type of soil

  2. If the utility block is planned to be built in a swampy area, then the best option for a permanent foundation are screw piles. It is advisable to use such a base if the construction site is located on a slope or has landscape changes.

    Screw piles have special blades that facilitate the process of screwing them into the ground

  3. The soil, which is dominated by sand and stones, is not subject to changes at low temperatures. In this case, the utility block can be erected on a shallow strip foundation.

    Shallow concrete strips are usually used on sandy and rocky soils, where the forces of frost heaving are practically not manifested

  4. On rocky soils, outbuildings can be built without a foundation.

To manufacture the capital base of a frame structure, it is necessary to perform the following construction work:

  1. On a selected plot of land, use a twine or cord, a measuring tape and wooden stakes to mark the boundaries of the future foundation.

    The cords are pulled so that the places where they intersect show the location of the corners of the future building

  2. In the area of ​​the future foundation marked with a cord, remove the top layer of soil. This is necessary in order to eliminate rotting processes under the floor of the building. It should be taken into account that the top layer of excavated soil contains a lot of black soil, which is useful in the garden, in beds, greenhouses - wherever crops are grown.
  3. After this, it is necessary to make wells at a distance of 100–120 cm from each other. The depth of the wells is at least 70 cm. The diameter of each hole should be 30–35 cm. To make the process of making wells go faster, you can use a construction drill. If you don’t have such equipment, then an ordinary garden auger will do. The base of the concrete pile should be located below the soil freezing level. In this regard, the depth of the columnar foundation in different regions of our country may differ.

    Using a hydraulic hand drill will significantly reduce the time required to prepare for pouring the foundation

  4. The bottom of each well must be covered with a 10 cm thick layer of sand. It must be remembered that wet bulk material is easier to compress. For a better effect, you can use a tamper. If this device is not found, it is easy to build it yourself. To do this, you will need a log about 100 cm long, as well as a block measuring 40x40 mm, 70 cm long. This block must be nailed to the end of the log, resulting in a T-shaped structure. The free end of the log will become the striking part, and the attached bars will become the handles.

    A home-made tamper will help to compress the sand layer and soil as much as possible

  5. Pour medium-fraction gravel of the same thickness on top of the sand cushion. These two layers will serve as a drainage system and will also act as shock absorbers during soil deformations during the cold months.
  6. If the walls of the wells crumble, they can be strengthened. A good waterproofing material is roofing felt rolled into a pipe, which is inserted into the well. Another convenient option would be asbestos-cement pipes of the appropriate diameter, which not only insulate the concrete pile from moisture, but also become formwork for unhardened concrete.

    Asbestos pipes will protect the walls of the well from crumbling and hold liquid concrete during hardening

  7. The strength of a columnar foundation will increase significantly if it is reinforced with a solid frame. For this purpose, reinforcing bars are used, from which a three-dimensional structure is made. To make such a frame, you will need 4 pieces of metal rods, equal in length to the height of the pillar. The reinforcement cages that will be located at the base of the foundation must be bent 45 degrees. This feature will make the structure stable during the concrete hardening period.
  8. Install ready-made metal frames into the wells.

    A metal structure made of reinforcement will add strength to the columnar base

  9. Pour concrete mixture inside roofing felt or asbestos-cement pipes.
  10. While the base has not hardened, install anchor bolts in the upper part of the post, which will serve as a connecting element for installing the lower trim of the frame.

    The studs are the connecting element of the lower trim and the foundation

  11. It will take 3 to 6 days for the mixture to harden, depending on the ambient temperature. In colder months this will take about 10 days.

Video: columnar foundation - easy

Construction of a wooden frame

When the base has completely hardened, you need to proceed to the manufacture of the frame structure. At this stage it is important to prepare the wood for use. To do this, it is treated with special means that will prevent rotting processes and the spread of bacteria inside the frame. As additional protection, all wooden elements can be coated with several layers of drying oil.

  1. After the protective layers have impregnated the wood, the bottom trim can be made. For this, bars with a cross section of 100x100 mm are used. It is necessary to make cuts at the ends of each of them to create a half-tree connection.

    A half-wood connection will allow you to securely fasten the ends of the wooden elements of the lower frame structure

  2. Then you need to drill holes in the middle of the end joints in the bars. Anchor bolts will be threaded through them, which will secure the lower frame to the foundation.

    The holes in the connection of the ends will allow you to pass the walled-up studs through the strapping beam

  3. The wooden frame must be isolated from the concrete surface using a double layer of roofing material.
  4. Install the wooden elements on the posts, securing them with metal nuts and washers.

    Beams of the lower trim are installed on the anchor bolts (studs), which are tightened from above with nuts

  5. After this, the supporting pillars of the structure are installed. First of all, you need to secure the corner bars. To ensure that they are always in an upright position, they are reinforced with jibs and cross bars. As additional connections, you can use metal corners and plates, which are attached to the ends of each rack and to the bottom trim. The accuracy of installation must be checked after each fastening of a wooden structural element. To do this, use a square, a plumb line and a measuring tape.

    The posts must be strengthened with struts and cross bars, constantly monitoring the vertical position of the posts

  6. When these structural parts are securely fastened, you can begin to manufacture the upper trim. The upper structure is made according to the same principle as the lower one. The only difference can be that bars of a smaller cross-section, for example, 100x50 mm, can be used for this element.

    The upper frame is assembled according to the same principle as the lower one, and finally connects the structure

  7. At this stage it is necessary to install logs and make a subfloor. For the logs, bars with a cross-section of 50x100 millimeters are used, which are laid at a distance of 50 to 80 cm. On top of these wooden elements, it is necessary to install a subfloor, which consists of tongue-and-groove boards. Their width is selected individually. Nails or screws can be used as additional fastenings.
  8. Next, you need to make and install doorways and window frames.

    Door and window frames will give the structure being built lateral stability

Video: frame - bottom harness

Manufacturing of rafter system

For outbuildings, shed and gable roofs are usually used. It is better to entrust the manufacture of roofing to experienced specialists, since the design contains many elements that require accurate calculations.

The rafter system for a utility block may contain such parts as a crossbar, a tie, a rafter leg, a strut, a support, a mauerlat, and a purlin.

If the utility block is equipped with a gable roof, you must choose one of several design options for the rafter system

It should be noted that it is more convenient to assemble the rafters on the ground, and lift the finished elements up and install them.

When the rafter system is completely installed on the upper frame of the utility block, it is necessary to prepare the base for placing the roofing material. To do this, a sheathing of boards with a section of 10x40 mm is laid perpendicular to the rafters at a distance of 30 to 50 cm from each other. This option is acceptable when using corrugated board, slate and other sheet material as a roofing covering.

If bitumen shingles are used as a roof, then it is necessary to construct a continuous sheathing from boards, waterproof plywood or OSB boards.

Video: do-it-yourself roof of the cabin

Insulation of the roof, walls and floor of the utility block

It should be noted that the installation of roofing and walls does not consist only of installing sheet material or tiles. This is preceded by the installation of vapor barrier, waterproofing and insulation layers. Today, there are various ways to insulate a roof.

The simplest version of the roofing pie contains layers of vapor barrier, sheathing, counter-lattice and finishing coating

When insulating the walls of the frame structure of a utility block, other technologies and materials are used. To protect the interior from temperature changes and dampness, it is necessary to lay insulation in the frame, protected by layers of vapor and waterproofing.

The interior finishing of the walls is carried out using a vapor barrier membrane attached to the ends of the frame posts

The floors of frame structures also need to be insulated. As in previous cases, various technologies are used for this using materials such as mineral wool, expanded clay, extruded polystyrene foam, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plasterboard, polyethylene and others.

Insulation of the floor in a utility room is usually carried out according to a simple scheme - mineral wool is placed in the space between the joists, which is covered with a vapor barrier film on top

After carrying out the above construction work, you can pay attention to the landscape design of the area located near this building.

After construction is completed, it is necessary to tidy up the area and decorate it with decorative elements and plants.

Video: insulation and interior decoration of the utility block

Photo gallery: options for interior decoration of the utility block

Video: utility block from A to Z

A correctly designed frame structure, as well as one built in compliance with modern technologies, will become not only a convenient living area, but also a decoration of the entire household.

Anyone who has at least once directly dealt with construction issues and delved into all the details knows very well that the stage of erecting the foundation of any structure is the most expensive. But that's not all. In some situations, installing a foundation is either impossible, or undesirable, or unjustified from an economic point of view.

For example, in a small garden plot, where there is a high risk of damage to part of the root system of vegetation and it is difficult to carry out excavation work, given the density of plantings. In such cases, the best option is to erect a temporary lightweight structure directly on the ground. Let's figure out how to make a shed from boards without a foundation in your country house or local area with your own hands.

On many thematic sites, in addition to the advantages of this engineering solution (high speed of construction, reduced costs), significant disadvantages are also noted - the fragility of the structure and the low level of thermal insulation.

The author himself is a summer resident with extensive experience, and categorically disagrees with this. The reasoning is quite clear. Firstly, if the installation is done correctly, the shed will last for many years. Secondly, the quality of insulation is also a controversial issue, since such buildings are intended mainly for storing household equipment and improvised materials, therefore, the microclimate inside them does not play a special role.

And making a bedding under the bottom of the barn, for example, from expanded clay, is not difficult. Well, it’s not difficult to determine how and what exactly to additionally cover the inside of the house to increase the temperature.

How to make a shed is probably not the most important thing that interests the reader. Moreover, the building material has already been determined - board. But “without a foundation” and “with your own hands” is somewhat unusual, although quite simple. This is what the author will focus on, based on personal experience in the construction of such a structure.

All areas are different, and that says it all. But you still have to take something into account.

  • The segment of the territory on which the plank shed is supposed to be built should not be at risk of flooding. Since it has no foundation, excessive soil moisture will lead to rapid destruction of the building. Therefore, for construction you should select (if possible) the highest “patch” on the site.
  • It is advisable that the barn be exposed to the sun most of the day. In this case, there is a guarantee that even if water accumulates near it, it will quickly evaporate, and the earth will dry out well. And moisture ingress is inevitable, especially if irrigation is done not by soil, but by sprinkling. By the way, many summer residents practice exactly this technique, fortunately, there are many inexpensive plastic “turntables” on sale.
  • When choosing a location, you should also take into account the perspective. Summer residents who not only know what crop rotation is, but also practice this growing technology, understand what we are talking about. When changing the order of planting garden crops or redeveloping a plot, the barn should not be a hindrance to the gardener.

How to make a shed base

Still, any building, including a barn, by definition must have one. The reader has two simple options to choose from. High speed of installation and minimum costs for the shed are guaranteed.

Option #1

An often mentioned way to build a shed is on pallets. It is unlikely that such a technology deserves attention, given that such a base (made of wood) will rot quite quickly. With an expectation of 1 - 2 years, this is a good option, but this is more suitable for temporary structures that are installed on sites, for example, by builders and installers. This is not the best solution for the private sector.

Option No. 2

On supports. Someone will object that this is already a columnar type foundation. This is not entirely true - there are similarities, but small. The fundamental difference is in the depth of installation of the supports. For a small-sized wooden shed, they are dug in 50±10 cm. This is quite enough for the base to withstand a not so significant load.

After installing the posts, they are aligned on all planes, securely fixed in place, after which they are tied. The supporting frame is the foundation on which the shed will be built. It turns out that you won’t have to do any excavation work on the site (except for digging 4-6 holes) or preparing concrete mortar in large volumes. In fact, the barn is made without a foundation.

The advantage of this solution is not only the speed of construction of the foundation and the minimal cost of materials. Since timber, that is, wood, is used for strapping, it will not be difficult to install the frame posts on it with your own hands. Yes, and the barn can be slightly raised above the ground, even the structure can be leveled if the site is downhill.

Calculator for calculating the quantity and volume of lumber

What to consider during construction

It is advisable to start work directly when all preparatory measures have been completed. Since the supports (you can use fragments of timber or logs) will be in the ground, you should choose a method for processing them to protect them from rotting. The concept of “do-it-yourself” often implies that the owner makes do with improvised materials and not purchased materials and means.

The author recommends thorough (at least 2 times) impregnation with waste engine oil. Additionally, it is advisable to coat all edges of the blanks used as posts (except for the top cut) with tar (molten, of course). There is virtually no financial investment, and the durability of the foundation is ensured.

A barn built using this technology has been standing on the author’s property for 12 years now. And there are not even indirect signs that repairs need to be done. By the way, the timber used for strapping should also be impregnated with mining.

Procedure for installing the base of the shed

Nothing complicated for those who are familiar with the technology of foundation construction.

  • Marking the area for the barn.
  • Digging holes. You need to try to ensure that their diameter is only slightly larger than the cross-section of the support.
  • Bottom seal. It is advisable to load a little clay (but always oily) into each hole, and then compact this layer. It will protect the hole from penetration of liquid into it from below. Considering that the tree for the supports is coated with tar, this will be enough. The specificity of this method of constructing a shed excludes the possibility of using other insulating materials (film, roofing felt), since they cannot be correctly laid (and straightened) in small holes.
  • Next is a layer of river sand or ASG.
  • Installation of supports and alignment of each vertically and horizontally.
  • Loading small gravel, broken bricks, etc. into the holes, compacting this mass.
  • Filling holes with cement mortar. It must be made of a sufficiently liquid consistency so that it penetrates as deeply as possible.

Drawing of a barn made of boards without a foundation

After hardening of the artificial stone obtained in this way, you can tie the posts under the barn, that is, mount the support frame.

This technology is more suitable for areas that are uneven. Or if for some reason the shed needs to be raised higher above the ground.

Option #3

On the "sleepers". If the space allocated for the shed is fairly level, then this is the most convenient way to quickly build a shed. It is used (a log is not suitable in this case), which is laid horizontally. In order to make a small shed, 2 blanks arranged in parallel are enough. Under a larger structure (in width), it is advisable to mount a third one, the location for which is selected in the center.

Timber processing is carried out only by impregnation. Since the products placed on the ground are also the foundation on which the frame of the shed will be erected, the tree should not be coated with tar.

  • Tracing the territory consists of marking the contour of the barn along the perimeter and determining the places where it is necessary to dig shallow (10 cm is enough) trenches. Timber will be laid in them.
  • Preparation is identical to the method described above - soil compaction, clay, and so on.
  • The bottom of each mini-trench is lined with P/E film, since the wood was not protected with tar. It makes no sense to use such a popular waterproofing material among summer residents as roofing felt. Within 3 years it will rot and the fungus will begin to destroy the wood.
  • After laying the beam, it should be fixed to prevent horizontal displacement. There are two ways. An easier one is to drive pieces of reinforcement into the sides of the products, at the end parts. If a massive beam is chosen, and the barn is large in size, then 2–3 (depending on the length) through holes are drilled in each workpiece along the center line. Pins are also driven into them.
  • The final stage is fastening the timber. All workpieces are connected with staples, metal plates, and corners. That's all - the strength and immobility of the base is ensured.

By the way, it is not necessary to dig trenches. You need to focus on your capabilities and local conditions. It is enough to fill the area with fine gravel, compact this layer well, and then lay the support beam on it.

There are a number of other methods for building a shed without a foundation. What they have in common is the presence of a support frame. The difference is in the columns on which it is installed.

There are also several options - reinforced concrete products, metal supports with plates, bricks and so on. The author did not consider other technologies for only one reason - the complexity of the connections. The supporting frame is made of wood, the posts are made of other materials. You can articulate it with your own hands, but why complicate your life by looking for a hammer drill, concrete drills, large metal drills or anything else.

How to build a shed

No detailed explanations are required for this stage of work. The technology of frame construction has long been known and is described in detail on many sites, in every detail. In principle, the author has nothing to add. The photographs clearly explain everything.

Frame installation

For a light shed, a beam with a side of 10 or even 5 cm (depending on the dimensions) is enough. For example, do this.

Installation of trusses (front and rear)

If the front pillars are made higher, then you can do without them. In this case, the roof will be pitched. It's easier to build.

Covering the frame with boards

Do it yourself - nothing complicated.

You just need to take into account that nails often go sideways and can also split the wood. It is better to fix all elements with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws, with preliminary drilling of the channels.

The reader will determine for himself how to cover the roof and cover the shed outside and inside. You can do this.

If you show your imagination, an originally designed barn will become a real decoration of your summer cottage.

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