Everyone dreams of lush, shiny, silky hair. But, unfortunately, it does not always have them by nature. Doctors have long discovered a direct link between hair and health. Hair has become dull - it means you need to strengthen the body, take care of your health.

So, to talk about hair care, you need to talk about their structure.

hair anatomy

Anatomically, the hair is divided into kernel(trunk) and root. The shaft is the visible part of the hair that protrudes above the surface of the skin. The hair root is located in the dermis and is surrounded by a root sheath, together with which it is called hair follicle . Kernel hair can be located at different angles to the skin surface - from 10 to 90 degrees. A very small growth angle (10-20 degrees) does not sometimes allow you to make the desired hairstyle, because. hair in this case is very difficult to lay in the opposite direction. In addition, if the angle of growth is too small, the hair can grow into the scalp and cause inflammation.

The rod in cross section consists of the inner medulla (it is absent in vellus hair), the middle cortical substance and the cuticle, the outermost layer. The medulla (core) consists of cells that have not yet fully keratinized (keratinized). The cortical layer consists of keratinized cells and makes up about 90% of the total mass of the hair. The strength of the hair depends on this layer. The cells of this layer contain the pigments that give hair its color: eumelanin (black-brown) and pheomelanin (yellow-red). The color of the hair depends on the ratio of these pigments.

The main hair colors are: brown, black, blond, red, ashen and gray; the total number of shades of hair reaches several tens. The cuticle consists of 6-9 layers of cells and in structure resembles a tile or scales of a pine cone, and these scales are directed from the hair root to the end. When the hair is exposed to an alkaline environment (ordinary soap), the scales open, and when exposed to an acidic environment, they close. As a rule, when the hair is damaged from the outside, it is the cuticle that suffers first. On the other hand, hair is one of the most resistant structures to external factors, second only to teeth.

Because the hair follicle is the most important element of the entire hair system, then for those who would like to thoroughly understand these issues, we will dwell on its structure in more detail.

The hair follicle is a kind of receptacle for the hair root, which is sometimes also called the bulb. The bulb is a small thickening and it, for the most part, consists of cells that are intensively dividing to form a hair (matrix of the hair bulb). It is also known that the bulb has an unusual immune status, the violation of which, presumably, is one of the causes of alopecia areata. In the lower part, the hair papilla adjoins the bulb. The papilla, among other things, contains blood vessels. The hair (or it is also called dermal) papilla is a very important part of the follicle, since it acts as a kind of computer that controls the condition and growth of the hair. If the papilla dies, then the hair dies. However, if for any reason the hair dies (for example, it is uprooted), and the papilla is preserved, then a new hair will grow in its place. From the foregoing, it follows that if during electrolysis it was not possible to destroy the dermal papilla, then expect hair to appear in the same place. The hair follicle is a structure that is in constant cyclic development - the stages of anagen, catagen, telogen; see more about this. hair physiology

As can be seen in the upper figure, the following structures also adjoin the hair follicle: sebaceous (there are usually 2-3 of them) gland, sweat gland, and the muscle that lifts the hair (if it were not for this muscle, the expression "hair stood on end" would hardly exist). In addition, the hair follicle is generously supplied with blood vessels. It is known that in men prone to baldness, the vascular apparatus of the hair follicle has an increased sensitivity to male sex hormones (androgens), in particular to dihydrotestosterone, as well as to the 5-alpha reductase enzyme, which converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone. During puberty, when the amount of androgens in the blood is increased, the vessels of the follicle steadfastly spasm, the nutrition of the hair follicle is disturbed, and, as a result, baldness occurs (even Hippocrates said that eunuchs do not go bald). It is important to note that only the hair of certain areas of the head has such increased sensitivity to androgens, but not all hair on the human body.

From here follows the basic principle of treatment, based on an understanding of this mechanism: do not suppress the production of male hormones in the body (it is unlikely that any man will thank you for this), especially if their content is normal, but reduce the sensitivity of the vascular apparatus of hair follicles to them in the androgen-dependent zone scalp. The androgen-dependent zone of the scalp in men occupies the forehead, crown and back of the head. But the hair follicles located below the back of the head, closer to the neck, are not androgen-dependent. This phenomenon is used to transplant hair from this area to bald areas of the scalp.

In addition, the hair follicle is richly supplied with nerve fibers: they accompany the hair follicle throughout its entire length - from the bulb to the epidermis. The structure of the innervation of the hair is quite complex, multifaceted and functionally not quite clear, so we will not go deep into this issue. The total number of sebaceous glands in humans reaches 200,000, and per day the total amount of sebum produced reaches 50 grams. The activity of the sebaceous glands depends on sex, age, on the stage of the menstrual cycle, on the state of the nervous and endocrine systems, as well as on the structure of nutrition. The main function of the sebaceous gland is to lubricate the hair with a secret and form an emulsion film on the surface of the skin (water-lipid film, water-lipid mantle), which performs a protective function. The emulsion film has a slightly acidic environment (within pH 4.5-6.5).

Since the emulsion film is very important for the normal functioning of the skin, we will dwell on it in more detail. It consists of dead cells of the epidermis (the outermost layer of the skin), the secretion of the sebaceous and sweat glands. In fact, the water-lipid film is the boundary between the external and internal environment. Due to the fact that the emulsion film has a slightly acidic environment, this prevents the growth of microorganisms on the surface of the skin. The water-lipid film also prevents the skin from soaking, because. has a water-repellent (hydrophobic) effect and at the same time prevents excessive drying of the epidermis. Another function of the emulsion film is UV protection. From the above, it is clear that when we use ordinary alkaline soap for washing, the water-lipid film is destroyed.

From this, however, it does not follow that you need to stop washing with soap at all (it is estimated that about 1 million bacteria, yeast cells and fungal spores are washed off from the skin of a person who has taken a shower or bath) - the emulsion film is quickly restored. However, you should not use alkaline soaps often, and if you do use them, then rinse them thoroughly from the surface of the skin after that. A more gentle effect on the skin is produced by liquid soaps with a neutral environment.

Important parameters of hair are length and thickness. The length of (uncut) hair depends, first of all, on racial affiliation: the longest hair of the representatives of the Mongoloid race, the shortest - of the representatives of the Negroid race. The length of hair in the European race occupies an intermediate position. In addition, we must not forget that the same hair does not grow for all of life: the developmental stage averages 3-6 years (for more details, see below). hair physiology), after which a new one begins to replace the fallen hair.

On average, hair grows 1 cm per month; Normally, 40-80 hairs fall out per day. The thickness of the hair depends on the person's age, hair color, and belonging to a particular race. It is known, for example, that the "father of peoples", comrade. Stalin, the hair on his head was as thick as horsehair. Usually, the thickest and toughest hair of the representatives of the Mongoloid race; Negroids rarely have thick hair. In newborns, hair is about 2-3 times thinner than in adults. In old age, the hair also becomes thinner. So, in infants, the thickness of the hair is 20-40 microns (microns), in an adult - 70-100 microns, in the elderly - 50-70 microns. The thickest hair in redheads (up to 100 microns), thinner in brunettes (75), even thinner in brown hair and the thinnest in blondes (50).

hair physiology

The hair follicle, and hence the hair, undergoes several stages in its development: the growth period is called anagen, the rest period is telogen, the transition period from one stage to another is catagen. In the catagen stage, atrophy of the hair papilla begins, as a result of which the cells of the hair bulb, deprived of nutrition, stop dividing and undergo keratinization. Now it is generally accepted that the first hair cycle begins precisely with the catagen stage (it lasts only a few weeks), after which a short telogen stage begins (lasting for several months), which smoothly passes into the developmental stage - anagen. The anagen phase, in turn, has 6 periods of development, which we will omit here, and can last an average of 3-6 years. With age, the anagen phase tends to decrease. It is important to note that the mechanical removal of hair in the telogen stage always entails the onset of the anagen stage, i.e. hair starts to grow again. From this it becomes clear why sometimes hair removal does not give quick and visible results. All hair that remains on the brush or falls out during the day is usually telogen hair.

What causes this hair life cycle (catagen -> telogen -> anagen -> catagen) remains unclear to researchers. However, it is obvious that it is in this area that the most important discoveries will lie, which, perhaps, will still make a revolution in trichology.

Typically, in healthy people, approximately 80% of the hair is in the anagen stage, slightly less than 20% is in the catagen stage, and about 1% is in the telogen stage. Studies show that excessive hair loss corresponds to a change in the above ratio: a decrease in the percentage of hair in the anagen and catagen stage, and an increase in the percentage of hair in the telogen stage. If you notice that the amount of hair falling out during the day has increased dramatically, this should be regarded as an alarm signal and an important reason to contact a specialist.

Hair is also characterized by such parameters as elasticity and porosity. Healthy hair is so elastic that it can stretch up to 30% of its own length and return to its original state. If you see that your hair has low elasticity, then it probably needs to be moisturized. Hair porosity is characterized by the fact that healthy hair can retain moisture in an amount up to 50% of its own weight and at the same time increase in diameter by 20%.

We have already seen that hair needs certain elements for growth and beauty, let's look at which ones.

vitamins

Of course, the body needs all the vitamins, but some of them are simply irreplaceable for our skin, hair, nails. These vitamins are marked with *.

*Vitamin A(carotene, retinol) - a fat-soluble vitamin exists in two forms: the finished form - retinol, and provitamin (in other words, "pre-" vitamin) - carotene. The daily intake of this vitamin for men is 500 IU (international units), for women - 400 IU. Of the two forms of this vitamin, beta-carotene should be preferred, as it is more effective.
Functions: preventing night blindness, increasing resistance to respiratory infections, reducing the duration of diseases, maintaining skin, hair and nails in a healthy state and improving the growth of the latter, removing age spots, when applied externally, it helps in the treatment of acne, boils, etc.

Natural sources: fish oil, liver, carrots, green and yellow vegetables, eggs, milk, margarine, yellow fruits. Works best when combined with B-complex, vitamins D, E, calcium, phosphorus and zinc. Protects vitamin C from oxidation.

Vitamin B 1 (thiamine) - a water-soluble vitamin that requires daily replenishment. The daily dose for adults is 1.0-1.5 mg. Known as the "peace of mind" vitamin. The need for it increases during illness, stress, operations.

Functions: promotes growth, improves digestion, especially the digestion of carbohydrates, normalizes the functioning of the nervous system, muscles and heart, helps with motion sickness and motion sickness, helps in the treatment of shingles.

Natural sources: dry yeast, rice hulls, whole wheat, oatmeal, peanuts, pork, most vegetables, bran, milk. Works best when combined with other B vitamins. Easily destroyed by heat.

*Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin) is a water-soluble vitamin that requires daily replenishment. The daily dose for adults is 1.2-1.7 mg, for pregnant women - 1.6 mg, for lactating women - 1.8 mg.

Functions: promotes growth and reproductive functions, maintains healthy skin, hair, nails, helps heal sores of the mouth, lips and tongue, improves vision, reduces eye fatigue, participates in the metabolism of proteins, fats and carbohydrates.

Natural sources: milk, liver, kidney, yeast, cheese, leafy green vegetables, fish, eggs. Does not break down under the influence of heat and acids. Decomposes under the influence of alkalis.

Vitamin B 3 (niacin, nicotinamide, vitamin PP) is a water-soluble vitamin that can be synthesized in the body in the presence of other B vitamins. The daily norm is 13-19 mg, for nursing mothers 20 mg.

Functions: supports a healthy digestive system, eliminates gastrointestinal disorders, thereby increasing the energy level in the body, gives a healthy look to the skin, prevents and relieves migraine headaches, increases blood circulation and reduces high blood pressure, lowers cholesterol and triglycerides. A lack of this vitamin can cause severe dermatitis.
Natural sources: liver, lean meats, whole wheat products, brewer's yeast, kidney, fish, eggs, roasted peanuts, white poultry, avocados, dates, prunes.

*Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol) - a water-soluble vitamin, vital for the normal functioning of the adrenal glands. can be synthesized in the body. The daily dose for adults is 10 mg.
Functions: promotes healing of wounds, burns, promotes the synthesis of antibodies, prevents fatigue, reduces the side effects of many antibiotics.
Natural sources: meat, whole grains, bran, wheat ovary, kidney, liver, heart, green vegetables, brewer's yeast, nuts, chicken. Destroyed during heat treatment.

*Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine) is a water-soluble vitamin that requires daily replenishment. Daily doses for adults are 1.6-2.0 mg, during pregnancy - 2.2 mg, while breastfeeding - 2.1 mg. Essential for proper absorption of vitamin B12.

Functions: promotes the absorption of proteins and fats, prevents nervous and skin disorders, relieves nausea, prevents aging, acts as a diuretic, reduces nocturnal muscle cramps, cramps in the calf muscles, numbness of the hands.

Natural sources: brewer's yeast, wheat bran, liver, kidney, soy, brown rice, eggs, oats, peanuts and walnuts. Destroyed by heat treatment.

*Vitamin B 8 (biotin) - water-soluble, sulfur-containing, can be synthesized in the body by intestinal bacteria. Necessary for the synthesis of ascorbic acid. Daily doses for adults - 100-300 mcg.
Functions: keeps the skin healthy, eliminates the manifestations of eczema and dermatitis, protects the hair from graying, helps in the prevention of baldness, relieves muscle pain.

Natural sources: beef liver, yolk, soy flour, brewer's yeast, milk, kidney, brown rice.

*Vitamin B 9 (folic acid) - water-soluble. It is necessary for the formation of red blood cells, promotes protein metabolism, is necessary for cell division, for the absorption of sugar and amino acids. Daily doses for adults - 180-200 mcg. When taking more than 2 g of ascorbic acid per day, it is worth increasing the intake of folic acid.

Natural sources: dark green leafy vegetables, carrots, liver, egg yolks, apricots, squash, avocados, beans, whole wheat and dark rye flour.

Vitamin B 12 (cyanocobalamin) is the only water-soluble vitamin that contains essential mineral elements. The daily dose for adults is 2 mcg, pregnant women - 2.2 mcg, for lactating women - 2.6 mcg.
Functions: forms and restores red blood cells, preventing anemia, in children promotes growth and improves appetite, increases energy, maintains the nervous system in a healthy state, reduces irritability, improves memory, concentration and mental state.
Natural sources: liver, beef, pork, eggs, milk, cheese, kidney.

Vitamin B 15 (pangamic acid) - a water-soluble antioxidant that increases its effectiveness when taken with vitamins A and E. The most commonly used daily doses are from 50 to 150 mg.
Functions: increases the lifespan of cells, reduces cravings for alcohol, accelerates recovery from fatigue, lowers blood cholesterol levels, alleviates the manifestations of angina pectoris and asthma, protects the liver from cirrhosis, prevents hangovers, stimulates immune responses, participates in protein synthesis.

Natural sources: brewer's yeast, whole grains, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds.

*Vitamin C(ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble vitamin that cannot be synthesized in the human body (unlike most animals). It plays a major role in the formation of collagen, which is important for the growth and repair of body tissue cells, gums, blood vessels, bones, teeth, and especially for the condition of our skin. Official daily doses for adults are about 60 mg. However, according to double Nobel Prize winner Dr. Linus Pauling, it reduces infectious diseases by 25% and cancer by 75% when taken at a dose of 1,000 mg (1 gram) to 10,000 mg (10 g) daily.
Functions: promotes healing of wounds, burns, bleeding gums, lowers blood cholesterol levels, strengthens the immune system, prevents the formation of carcinogens, acts as a natural laxative in large doses, reduces the likelihood of thrombosis, increases life expectancy, helps in the treatment of colds, improves the absorption of inorganic iron, reduces the effects of exposure to various allergens.

Natural sources: citrus fruits, berries, green and leafy vegetables, tomatoes, cauliflower, potatoes, sweet peppers. To increase its effectiveness, it should be taken along with bioflavonoids, calcium and magnesium.

Vitamin D, D 2 , D 3 (calciferol, ergocalciferol, ergosterol) - fat-soluble "vitamin of the sun". Ultraviolet rays interacting with the skin, contribute to the formation of this vitamin. Once a tan is formed, the production of vitamin D through the skin stops. Daily intake doses are 200-400 IU.

Functions: helps to utilize calcium and phosphorus, has a specific anti-rachitic effect, when taken together with vitamins A and C, it helps in the prevention of colds, helps in the treatment of conjunctivitis.

Natural sources: fish oil, sardines, herring, salmon, tuna, milk and dairy products.

*Vitamin E(tocopherol) - fat-soluble, consisting of tocopherols (8 varieties) reproduction vitamin. An active antioxidant that prevents the oxidation of fatty compounds, as well as vitamin A, selenium, sulfur-containing amino acids, and to some extent vitamin C. Enhances the activity of vitamin A. The most commonly used doses are 200 - 1200 IU. Selenium enhances the action of this vitamin.

Functions: increases the supply of oxygen to the body, increases endurance, together with vitamin A protects the lungs from polluted air, reduces fatigue, prevents blood clots, accelerates the healing of burns, scars, prevents miscarriages, acts as a diuretic, helps relieve leg cramps, maintains the skin in a healthy state .

Natural sources: soybeans, vegetable oils, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, leafy greens, spinach, fortified flour, whole grains, eggs. Destroyed during heat treatment, when using chlorinated water.

*Vitamin F(fatty acids) - a fat-soluble vitamin, which is a complex of unsaturated fatty acids (linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic) obtained from food. Twelve teaspoons of sunflower oil cover the daily requirement for a vitamin.
Functions: prevents the deposition of cholesterol in the arteries, promotes healthy skin and hair, prevents the development of heart disease, helps to reduce weight by burning saturated fat, promotes growth and overall well-being.

Natural sources: vegetable oils from the ovary of wheat, linseed, sunflower, soybeans, peanuts; walnuts, almonds, avocados. It is best absorbed when taken with vitamin E and with meals. Destroyed by heat treatment.

Vitamin K(menadione, vikasol) - a fat-soluble complex of three components - K1, K2, K3. Daily consumption rates are 65-80 mcg. Necessary for the synthesis of prothrombin and the proper functioning of the coagulation system.

Functions: prevents bleeding, hemorrhage, promotes normal clotting, helps to reduce secretions during heavy menstruation.

Natural sources: leafy green vegetables, yogurt, alfalfa, egg yolk, soybean oil, fish oil, kelp.

*Vitamin M(folic acid, vitamin B9) - a water-soluble vitamin necessary for the formation of red blood cells. Promotes protein metabolism. The daily dose for adults is 180-200 mcg and 2 times more for pregnant women.

Functions: improves milk flow in nursing, protects against intestinal parasites and food poisoning, provides healthy skin, acts as an analgesic for pain, slows down graying of hair if taken together with pantothenic and para-aminobenzoic acids, improves appetite in case of exhaustion, helps in the prevention of anemia.
Natural sources: dark green leafy vegetables, carrots, liver, egg yolk, apricots, squash, avocados, beans, whole wheat flour and dark rye flour.

Vitamin P(bioflavonoids, rutin) - a factor in the permeability of blood vessels. It is necessary for better absorption of vitamin C. It is believed that for every 500 mg of vitamin C, at least 100 mg of rutin should be taken.
Functions: protects vitamin C from oxidation and destruction, strengthens capillary walls, increases resistance to infections, helps prevent and treat bleeding gums, helps in the treatment of swelling and dizziness caused by diseases of the inner ear.
Natural sources: white peel and interlobular part of citrus fruits, apricots, buckwheat, blackberries, cherries, rose hips.

*Inositol- water-soluble lipotropic representative of the B-complex. Together with choline, it participates in the formation of lecithin. Approximate daily figures are 250-500-1000 mg per day. Plays an important role in the nutrition of brain cells.

Functions: Helps lower cholesterol, keeps hair healthy, prevents hair loss, helps prevent eczema, promotes the redistribution of fats in the body, has a calming effect.

Natural sources: liver, brewer's yeast, beef brains and heart, melon, grapefruit, raisins, peanuts, cabbage.

*PABC(para-aminobenzoic acid) - a water-soluble member of the B family, can be synthesized in the body. It has important sun protection properties. The most common daily doses are 100 to 300 mg per day.

Functions: helps to restore the color of gray hair, when used externally, protects the skin from sunburn, keeps the skin healthy and smooth, helps slow down the formation of wrinkles.
Natural sources: liver, brewer's yeast, kidney, brown grains, rice, bran, wheat ovary.

Choline- a substance from the family B. It is a fat emulsifier and a lipotropic substance. Works together with inositol, promoting the utilization of fats and cholesterol. The average daily allowance is 500 to 900 mg of choline per day.

Functions: helps to control the accumulation of cholesterol, helps to solve the problem of memory in old age, facilitating and improving the work of the liver, helps it remove poisons and drugs from the body, has a calming effect.

Natural sources: yolk, brains, heart, green leafy vegetables, yeast, liver, wheat germ.

As you know, there are three types of hair: normal, oily and dry.

Greasy hair

Hair is oily due to too active activity of the sebaceous glands. Oily hair is characterized by increased luster, sticks together in separate strands, already a few hours after washing it may look unattractive, often oily dandruff is a concomitant problem. In order not to aggravate the situation, you should carefully monitor your diet. It is necessary to reduce the consumption of sweets, coffee, alcohol, fatty foods, smoked meats. Vitamins B and C are very useful for you, as well as vitamin complexes containing iron and sulfur. Oily hair quickly becomes greasy and soon after washing it looks untidy again, so they try to wash it more often. But with frequent washing, the sebaceous glands begin to work even more actively. To solve this problem, you can try washing your hair in parts, for example, only the bangs or the sides of the head. It is important to choose the right hairstyle for your hair type. It is convenient to have a short haircut when the hair can be washed quickly. If you don't like short hair, choose a hairstyle with curls, where the hair is less close to the scalp, and therefore less in contact with fat. Use special styling products for oily hair, which irritate the scalp less, other products. To improve the appearance of oily hair, it is useful to use special compresses, rinses from herbal infusions and rubbing special tinctures into the scalp.
Compresses will improve the look of oily hair.

1. Finely chopped peppermint leaves rub with rowan berries. Hold the gruel on your hair for 30 minutes, and then rinse your hair thoroughly.

2. Grind green leaves of dandelion or plantain into a pulp and put on the scalp. Then rinse with warm water after 30 minutes.

3. In summer, you can make a compress from fresh plantain leaves and kefir. 2 tablespoons of crushed plantain leaves should be mixed with 1 tablespoon of kefir, apply this mixture to wet hair. Wrap your head in cling film and a terry towel. Wash off with warm water after 30 minutes.

4. It is very useful to grease oily hair with kefir or yogurt before washing and tie it with a towel for 15-20 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly with shampoo, and finally rinse with slightly acidified water.

To reduce greasiness, make tinctures for rubbing into the scalp. These procedures will give a positive effect if used regularly (for example, every other day for 1 month).

1. Take 3 tablespoons of green pine, fir or spruce needles and pour 1 liter of boiling water over them. Boil for 20 minutes, strain. A decoction can be used for rubbing into the scalp in its pure form or in half with alcohol. You can also use fir oil by diluting it (1:2) with alcohol.

2. Pour 10-20 g of crushed burdock roots with one glass of boiling water and boil. Such a decoction can be rubbed into the scalp regularly, 2-3 times a week.
To rinse and strengthen oily hair, you can prepare the following compositions:

1. Take 2 tablespoons of the following herbs: horsetail, peppermint, oak bark and pour 1 liter of boiling water, strain after 40 minutes. The infusion is ready.

2. 1 tablespoon of finely chopped stems and flowers of tansy pour 400 ml of boiling water and leave for 2 hours to infuse, then strain. With this infusion, you can not only rinse your hair, but also wash your hair without using shampoo.

3. Pour 3 tablespoons of oak bark with 1 liter of boiling water and boil for 15 minutes, then cool and strain. Rinse your hair with this decoction for 2 months 2-3 times a week.

4. A mixture of 1 tablespoon of oak bark, St. John's wort and yarrow, taken equally, pour 1 cup of boiling water and put in a water bath for an hour. Cool, strain, and the broth is ready.

5. Dilute 1 tablespoon of mustard in 1 liter of warm water and rinse your head with this solution several times. Then rinse your hair thoroughly and rinse with acidified water...

Dry hair

Dry hair is dull, brittle, split ends. Small dry flakes of dandruff often appear on the scalp. Hair often becomes dry with age, replacing normal hair. Excessive washing, the use of a hot hair dryer, the sun, fluctuations in air temperature, as well as health conditions are to blame. If the hair has become dull and brittle, then it means that you need to properly take care of your health. Dry hair should be washed very gently, using a very mild shampoo for damaged hair, which repairs the hair and supplies it with nutrients. Such a shampoo usually contains various additives (jojoba oil, avocado, egg lecithin or lanolin, silk proteins) that make the hair elastic, moisturize it, protect the hair from the harmful effects of the environment and make it shiny. As we have already said, one of the main problems of dry hair is that it reacts sensitively to changes in temperature, losing a lot of moisture in the process. Special creams, rinses and moisturizing aerosols restore the lack of moisture and protect the hair from the adverse effects of the environment. As a result of their use, the hair also becomes elastic and easier to style. For dry hair, strong ultraviolet radiation is especially harmful, so in summer use special protective aerosols that neutralize the effects of sunlight. Good for dry hair and hair treatment ampoules containing nutrients that restore the stratum corneum of the hair. At the same time, nutrients penetrate into the stratum corneum and restore the hair from the inside. After washing, distribute the liquid from the ampoule on the hair and scalp, and do not rinse. The therapeutic effect will continue until the next hair wash. Dry hair often splits at the ends, so cut the ends regularly or use a special healing fluid for the ends of the hair. Dry hair is very important to dry gently, so when possible, do not use a hair dryer. If you do blow-dry your hair, start drying on a gentle setting with warm air, continue with cold air, and then quickly finish with hot air.

Among the recipes of traditional medicine, you can find many useful tips for dry, split ends. To help such hair, try warm compresses 2 times a month before washing. Rub burdock or any vegetable, slightly warmed oil into the scalp. Wrap your head in cellophane and then a warm terry towel. After an hour, wash your hair with shampoo and rinse with water slightly acidified with lemon juice. Vegetable oil is very useful for dry hair, it supplies vitamins E and P to the roots, which they need.

Other compresses are made in the same way. Thoroughly mix 1 egg yolk with sunflower (olive) oil, honey, henna powder, cognac, all components are taken in 1 teaspoon.

Beat 1 egg yolk. Add 1 tablespoon onion juice, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, and 1 teaspoon honey.

You can also make a compress of kefir and plantain leaves. They are taken in equal proportions.

Before washing on the hair, you can make a compress from any cream for dry skin. Well, if this cream contains lanolin and vitamins A, D and E. The cream is rubbed into the skin with light massaging movements. This compress is kept for 20-30 minutes. Then the hair is washed with shampoo.

To save hair from excessive dryness, you can use the following procedures, which are recommended for courses. They consist in rubbing various infusions containing nutrients into the scalp.

4 tablespoons of chopped burdock root are boiled for 15 minutes in 0.5 liters of water, filtered. Rubbed into the hair roots 2-3 times a week for 2 months.

4 tablespoons of birch leaves are poured into 300 ml of boiling water and infused for 2 hours, then filtered. The infusion is rubbed into the scalp after each hair wash for 1 month.

4 tablespoons of chopped ivy leaves are boiled for 10 minutes in 0.5 liters of water. Insist 40 minutes and filter. Rubbed into the scalp daily for 1 month.

Nourishing masks are very useful for dry hair.

Mix 5 tablespoons of unrefined vegetable oil with lemon juice and rub into dry hair. Leave for half an hour and wash off with a mild shampoo. This mask should be done regularly, every two weeks.

Dry hair is given more shine by adding lavender and geranium oils. Masks with these oils are first distributed only on the skin, and then rubbed into individual strands to the ends of the hair (the hair must be dry). Leave the mask on for 15 minutes, then rinse with warm water.

Another version of the mask, which should be accompanied by combing the hair. Stir 20 g of castor oil, 20 g of unrefined vegetable oil and 10 g of shampoo. Apply this mixture to your hair with a cotton swab. Comb your hair in all directions for two minutes. After that, rinse your head thoroughly.

In order to give dry hair shine, rinses can be used. After washing, rinse your hair with infusion of chamomile. To do this, pour 2-4 tablespoons of dried flowers with 1 cup of boiling water, boil over low heat for 5-10 minutes and let it brew. In blondes and light brown-haired women, the hair acquires a golden hue from this infusion.

You can prepare a different composition. Dissolve aspirin in water, and rinse your hair with the solution after washing.

To eliminate dandruff with dry hair, use the following recipes.

4 tablespoons of calamus root pour 0.5 liters of water, boil for 15 minutes, then insist and filter for 30-40 minutes. Use infusion for rinsing after washing.

In equal parts, mix onion or garlic juice with vegetable oil and lemon juice. This mass should be applied with massaging movements to slightly moistened hair. Leave for 20-30 minutes. Then rinse with warm water, adding citric acid or vinegar to it ...

Thin hair

To wash your hair, you need to use special shampoos that give your hair more volume. These shampoos contain keratins, which give fine hair volume and make it more elastic. Special shampoos have only one drawback - they do not make hair easier to comb, like shampoos with nutritional additives or rinse aid. As for shampoos with conditioner or "2 in 1", they are contraindicated for fine hair. These shampoos weigh down the hair, make it sticky, which makes it very difficult to style it later. Do not use too often and regular rinse, otherwise the result will be the same.

There are special products for strengthening thin hair. Such products do not contain fat and substances that weigh down and straighten hair. You can use a fat-free gel (it is applied to the scalp after washing and rubbed into the hair roots) or a hair strengthening liquid that contains keratins and amino acids. To prevent thin hair from falling out, you can use special ampoules with a liquid containing nourishing extracts that change the structure of the hair. To increase the effect of the use of a therapeutic agent, at the same time it is necessary to introduce calcium into the hair, which heats the nutrient mixture and thereby promotes the penetration of vitamins deeper into the hair. To do this, crush a calcium tablet, mix with warm water and apply to the hair along with the nutrient liquid.

Thin hair suffers greatly from a lack of vitamins. Therefore, in addition to the usual vitamins, take vitamin H every two months, which improves the condition of the stratum corneum of the hair. Home remedies are also suitable for strengthening and nourishing fine hair.

Mask for thin hair. Mix the yolk with a tablespoon of vegetable oil, beat, spread the hair with this mixture and wrap it with a towel. Wash your hair thoroughly after half an hour.

Mask for strengthening thin hair. Apply henna in the form of gruel to the hair in the same way as when coloring, but try to distribute the bulk on the roots of the hair. Then wrap your head with a towel, and wash off the henna after 3-5 minutes.

The most suitable length for creating hairstyles from thin hair is between the chin and the earlobes. Short haircuts are impractical, as they will make thin hair appear sparse. Too much length makes the hair heavier. The effect of splendor can be achieved with a perm or proper blow-drying. Blow dry fine hair in the opposite direction of hair growth. After blow-drying, add a dose of foam fixative and style your hair. In conclusion, fix the hairstyle with varnish ....

Hair care

Every woman can have beautiful hair, for this you just need to pay a little attention to it, because the condition and health of our hair, as a rule, depends only on ourselves. It is entirely in our power to nourish the hair with useful substances and provide them with the right constant care. It will not take you much time, follow our advice, and everyone will envy your beautiful hair. It should only be noted that, as with all personal care, regularity is important in hair care. As you know, there are three types of hair: normal, oily and dry. But first, let's deal with the simplest hair care procedures, regardless of type - washing and combing your hair.

How often you wash your hair should depend on how quickly your hair gets dirty and greasy. This can happen on the second day, or maybe after a week, depending on the type of hair. With modern shampoos, you can wash your hair as often as you want - even every day. But in this case, you need to use shampoos suitable for daily use.

There are a few simple rules for washing hair.

First, the head is best washed with soft water. Boiled water is softer than tap water, but if you don't have time to boil water, try softening regular tap water by diluting some regular baking soda in it.

Secondly, do not wash your hair with too hot water. The water temperature should be around 50 degrees. Water of this temperature dissolves sebum well, removes dirt and improves blood circulation in the scalp.

Thirdly, you should not dry your hair with a hairdryer, especially with a hot stream of air; because of this, they become dry and brittle. Try to use the hair dryer as little as possible, while keeping it at a distance of 20-30 cm from the hair.

To wash your hair, you will need hair shampoo, as well as conditioner or balm. Choose a shampoo according to your hair type.

Shampoo for oily hair - contains a large amount of detergents that cleanse the skin and hair of excess oil. This shampoo should not be washed too often, as this can lead to drying or flaking of the skin.

Shampoo for normal hair - contains less detergent than shampoo for oily hair. It cleanses the hair well without interfering with the natural release of oils.

Shampoo for dry hair - contains little detergent, but it has an added moisturizer that prevents excessive dryness of the skin and hair.

Gentle shampoo for frequent washing - very weak, does not irritate the skin and does not dry out the hair.

Anti-dandruff shampoo - contains substances that slow down the division of skin cells, and also removes its dead flakes, like exfoliating products for the face and body. Alternate with regular shampoo, as too much of it can make hair dull and dry.

These are just the main types of shampoos, in addition to them, there are shampoos for hair volume, restorative shampoos, shampoos with conditioner, herbal extracts, and so on.

Before washing, comb your hair thoroughly to remove any residue from styling products and dandruff. Don't apply it directly to your hair, put a little shampoo into your palm and add water to reduce the concentration. Apply the resulting mixture to wet hair and massage the scalp thoroughly. Massage improves blood circulation to the scalp, resulting in a better supply of nutrients and oxygen to the hair roots, and your hair becomes stronger. Then thoroughly and completely rinse the foam from the hair and scalp, rinse the head several times with clean water. After that, it is useful to rinse your head with an acidic solution (dissolve 1 tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice in 1 liter of water) or decoctions and infusions of dandelion, chamomile, nettle, coltsfoot and other herbs. This will strengthen the hair, and in some cases give it a certain shade (chamomile decoction - reddish, nettle - ashy) ...

Homemade shampoos can sometimes be used to wash any type of hair, as natural substances are very beneficial for hair and scalp.

Egg shampoo. Whisk 2 egg yolks with a glass of water. Strain and apply to hair. Leave for an hour, then wash off with warm water. The yolk is useful in that it contains fatty substances missing in the hair roots - cholesterol and lecithin, as well as vitamin A.

Conditioning shampoo. Mix 1 tablespoon of any shampoo, 1 egg and 1 tablespoon of powdered gelatin. Whisk slowly to avoid lumps and apply to damp hair. Hold for 5-10 minutes, then rinse your hair well. Hair becomes beautiful and thick due to the content of protein in this composition.

Yolk shampoo. Take 2 egg yolks, mix them with the juice of 1/2 lemon and add a few drops of cognac. Rub the resulting mixture into the roots of the hair. After 30 minutes, rinse your hair thoroughly with acidified water.

It is useful to wash any hair with infusion of rye bread. To prepare it, 200-300 g of bread should be poured with 1 liter of boiling water and infused in a thermos for about 3-6 hours. After this, the infusion should be filtered and filtered. Apply the gruel from the bread to the hair, massage the scalp and rinse the hair with water.

After washing your hair, it is useful to apply a balm or conditioner to your hair. After their application, the hair is easy to comb, become obedient, in addition, the conditioner protects the hair from the effects of the external environment, and the balm has a healing effect on the hair. Conditioner or balm is usually kept on wet hair for 1-2 minutes, after which the hair is thoroughly washed with water.

Now let's talk about how to comb your hair properly. Combing hair is necessary not only for aesthetic reasons, when combing, the scalp is massaged, blood flow to the skin increases, and, consequently, the nutrition of the hair roots improves. After combing, the hair is cleaned of dust and dirt, the fat is evenly distributed along the entire length. Do not comb wet hair, because it is very brittle. If you have short hair, brush it from the roots. For long hair, you should start the procedure from the ends, rising to the roots.

Nutrition is an essential part of hair care. In addition to the use of balms and conditioners, which we have already talked about, masks and compresses, lotions, sprays and hair creams. To achieve a tangible result, masks should be done regularly, at least every two weeks. There are masks for various types of problematic hair containing vitamins and other substances necessary in this case. If you're short on time, use lotions or sprays that don't need to be washed or rinsed off. Split ends of hair can be treated with a cream-shine, then you do not have to cut them.

To strengthen and nourish the hair, you can also use homemade products. For example, the following procedure is useful for hair of any type. Take 1 tablespoon of dry herbs: sage, plantain, nettle, chamomile, and oregano - pour them with 1 liter of boiling water. Infuse this mixture for an hour, strain, add brown bread until gruel is obtained. The warm mixture should be rubbed into the scalp and tied with a scarf or polyethylene. After 2 hours, the hair is rinsed without using shampoo. It is useful to do such a nutritional procedure once a month ...

Hair is a natural decoration of any person. No one will refuse to have beautiful, well-groomed, shiny hair. Hair care products are a huge segment of the cosmetics market, and it is this market segment that is especially important for a Russian cosmetics manufacturer. To create hair products that will be in demand by consumers, it is not enough to understand chemistry well. It is useful to have an idea of ​​what hair is from the point of view of biology, how it is arranged and how it lives. It is these questions that this article is devoted to.

Hair under the microscope

The biological function of hair is to protect the head from overheating, cooling, and mechanical damage. The approximate chemical composition of a healthy hair is as follows: 3-15% water, 6% lipids, 1% pigment, 78-90% protein (keratin). The main elements in the composition of hair are carbon (49.6%), oxygen (23.2%), nitrogen (16.8%), hydrogen (6.4%), sulfur (4%). In addition, the composition of the hair includes magnesium, arsenic, iron, phosphorus, chromium, copper, zinc, manganese, gold.

Figure 1. The structure of the hair

From the point of view of physiology, hair is a “dead” formation. Hair is not supplied with blood, nerve fibers do not fit to it and muscles do not join. Therefore, when cutting, we do not feel pain, the hair does not bleed, and when it is pulled, not a single muscle is stretched. But, if hair is a dead formation, then why does hair grow and why does it hurt when we pluck hair? The fact is that each hair consists of two parts: the visible part (hair shaft) and the follicle hidden in the skin. Living cells that multiply at a tremendous rate are located in the hair follicle, which lies deep in the dermis.

The hair follicle is the hair root with surrounding tissues and the hair-glandular complex (sebaceous and sweat glands; muscle that lifts the hair; blood vessels and nerve endings) (Fig. 1). We are born into the world with a certain number of such follicles, this value is genetically programmed, and it is impossible to change anything here at this point in time. The number of hair follicles varies among people with different hair colors. On average, the total number of hairs on the head of blondes is 140 thousand, for brown-haired women - 109 thousand, for brunettes - 102 thousand, and for redheads - 88 thousand. cell division in the bone marrow. Thanks to this, hair grows by about 1-2 centimeters per month.

Each hair follicle has its own innervation and musculature. Due to the nerve endings, the hair follicle has tactile sensitivity. The muscles adjacent to the follicle, contracting from fear or under the influence of cold, lift the hair and compress the skin, resulting in "goosebumps" on the skin. The duct of the sebaceous gland opens at the mouth of the hair follicle. This gland produces sebum, which, standing out at the mouth of the hair follicle, lubricates the growing hair and the surface of the skin of the scalp. Sebum creates a film on the hair, giving it elasticity, smoothness and water repellency. The activity of the sebaceous glands is controlled by sex hormones - androgens. At the mouth of the follicle, some bacteria settle - representatives of the microflora of the skin. Changes in the microflora lead to impaired keratinization and the appearance of dandruff.

Hair follicle - "factory" for the production of hair

So, the hair "originates" in the follicle (Fig. 2). The growth of a new hair begins from the hair (dermal) papilla - a connective tissue formation located at the base of the follicle (hair follicle). The hair papilla contains blood vessels that supply the cells of the bulb with oxygen and nutrients necessary for cell reproduction and hair growth. If the papilla dies, the hair also dies. Follicle cells divide and multiply in the area adjacent directly to the hair papilla. As they move to the surface of the scalp, follicular keratinocytes gradually lose their nuclei, flatten and become keratinized, filling with hard keratin. Among the cells of the hair follicle, melanocytes are also present, which determine the intensity of hair color. The more melanocytes, the darker the hair. As we age, melanocyte activity decreases, causing hair to turn gray. The shade of the hair is determined by genetic factors and depends on the ratio of the content of the two main pigments: eumelanin and pheomelanin (red hair). Thus, hair color depends on a combination of two factors: the ratio of pigments and the number of pigment-synthesizing cells.

Figure 2. The structure of the hair root

Each follicle is an independent formation with its own life cycle (Fig. 3). The life cycle of a hair consists of three stages, its duration varies from 2 to 5 years. Each hair follicle is genetically programmed to produce approximately 25–27 hairs.

Figure 3. Life cycle of hair

The first phase of the hair life cycle is anagen, when the follicle produces a thin hair fiber that gradually grows and becomes thick and pigmented. Anagen lasts two to five years. The next phase is catagen - the resting phase. Cell division of the follicle slows down and stops, the hair follicle "falls into hibernation." The hair bulb gradually detaches from the hair papilla. This phase lasts a very short time - from one week to three weeks. And the last phase that completes the life path of the hair is telogen. During the telogen period, new hair begins to grow and old hair falls out. Cell renewal stops for approximately 3 months (the time during which the connection between the newly synthesized hair follicle and the hair papilla is restored, and the new hair enters the anagen phase). The telogen bulb, completely separated from the dermal papilla, acquires an elongated shape and begins to move towards the surface of the skin of the scalp.

Each hair lives according to its own “individual schedule”, therefore different hairs are at different stages of their life cycle at the same time: 85% of hairs are in the anagen phase, 1% in the catagen phase and 14% in the telogen stage. When the ratio between the hair in the anagen and telogen phases is disturbed and more than 14–15% of the hair is in the stage of hair loss, we can talk about the development of baldness or alopecia. Normally, we lose an average of 70-80 hairs per day.

hair shaft

The hair shaft has a complex structure. In the center of it is the medulla, surrounded by the cortex, that is, the cortical layer (about 80–90% of the total volume of the hair). Outside the hair is the cuticle, which covers the cortex like tiles.

The medullary layer (central medulla) is the central part of the hair shaft, which is not present in all types of human hair. For example, the medulla is absent in vellus hair. The medulla is filled with air bubbles - thanks to this, the hair has a certain thermal conductivity. The medulla plays no role in changing either the chemical or physical properties of the hair.

The cortical layer, or cortex, is the main substance of the hair, which makes up from 80 to 85% of its volume. The cortex consists of the horny substance of keratin formed by glued together keratinized fusiform cells. Like any other protein, keratin is made up of amino acids that form polypeptide chains. These chains intertwine with each other, forming threads. These threads, in turn, winding on each other, create a supercoiled structure: uniting several pieces, they first form hair protofibrils, then microfibrils and, finally, the largest fibers - macrofibrils. Wrapping around each other, macrofibrils form the main fibers of the cortical layer (Fig. 4). The fibrils are oriented parallel to the hair axis and parallel to each other. They are linked by hydrogen and disulfide bonds, which form transverse bridges between the fibrils. If it were not for the disulfide bridges between the cysteine ​​residues of adjacent protein chains, then the chains would separate and the fiber would disintegrate. It is the cross disulfide bonds between cysteine ​​residues that give keratin its unique qualities: strength and elasticity. But disulfide bonds are not very strong. In aqueous solution, disulfide bridges can be separated and connected in a new position. For example, if the hair is wetted and wound on curlers, then the rearrangement of disulfide bonds will lead to the fact that the dried hair will retain the shape of the curler for some time, a curl is formed. The principle of perm hair is based on the destruction of disulfide bonds and the formation of new ones. Since the hair cortex, which mainly provides the strength of the hair, is all based on disulfide bonds, it needs additional protection, in particular from water. The function of protecting hair from water and mechanical influences is performed by a barrier layer - the cuticle, which also consists of keratin, only more durable.

Figure 4. The structure of the hair shaft.Symbols: 1-cuticle; 2- cortex; 3- medullary layer

The cuticle consists of six to ten overlapping layers of transparent, tile-like, flat, keratinized cells (keratin scales) superimposed on each other, containing mainly amorphous keratin. Cuticle keratin contains a lot of cysteine. The space between the cuticle scales and between the cuticle and the cortex is filled with lipid layers resembling the lipid layers of the stratum corneum. However, in the hair this layer is organized differently. If ceramides play the main role in the stratum corneum, then fatty acids come to the fore in the hair. Basically, it is a branched 18-carbon methyleicosanoic acid that binds to cysteine ​​by a thioether bond. Since there is a lot of cysteine ​​in the cuticle, methyleicosanoic and other fatty acids cover the cuticle scales with a continuous layer (F-layer, or fatty acid layer). Analysis of the lipid composition of hair shows that the composition of integral (covalently linked to cysteine) lipids includes approximately 50% fatty acids (of which 40% methyleicosanoic acid), 40% cholesterol sulfate, 7% cholesterol and 3% fatty alcohols. The composition of polar lipids (forming intercellular lipid layers) contains about 60% ceramides, 7–10% glycophingolipids, and 30% cholesterol sulfate.

Due to the lipid layer and the presence of disulfide bonds, the scales of the hair cuticle fit tightly to each other. Since they are all located in the same plane, the beam of light falling on the hair is evenly reflected from its surface - the hair shines. Therefore, shine is a mandatory sign of healthy hair. Among the products that are applied to the hair, there are many substances that either destroy the lipid layer (for example, shampoo surfactants) or disorganize disulfide bonds. This leads to a weakening of the bond between the cuticle scales. As a result, the scales of the cuticle are lifted, serrated and come into disarray. Light, falling on such hair, is reflected randomly, and the hair ceases to shine. In addition, the serrated scales of the cuticle of adjacent hairs cling to each other and peel off when combed, exposing the cortex, as a result, the hair loses its strength and breaks off easily.

Conclusion

By examining the structure of the hair, we can answer many questions regarding the correct choice of ingredients for hair care products, guided by the basic rule - "do no harm." It should be borne in mind that the hair reacts quite actively to external influences. For example, with frequent dyeing and perm, abuse of thermal styling methods, hair can lose a large percentage of moisture and lipids. The most destructive effect on the hair structure is UV - radiation, contributing to the leaching of the cysteine-containing protein from the cuticle, which provides adhesion of the cuticle scales, and destroying the lipid layer of the hair. This means that UV filters and antioxidants must be used to protect the hair. So that when washing your hair, the hair does not lose the lipids necessary for them, you should choose soft surfactant systems.

Damaged hair cannot be "repaired", but hair can be improved and prevented from further damage by using conditioners that smooth the cuticle scales. As such additives, you can use proteins (keratin, silk proteins, wheat, etc.), lipids (ceramides), polysaccharides (chitosan, hyaluric acid), as well as any other macromolecules that can be fixed on the hair without weighing them down. In order for the cuticle of newly growing hair to be stronger and more resistant to harmful effects, oils are used that restore the lipid barrier of the hair - avocado oils, burdock, argan, jojoba, etc. Conditioning additives are also effective for strengthening hair. When choosing supplements to combat hair loss, it should be borne in mind that the main target in this case are the cells of the hair follicles, as well as the sebaceous glands and scalp. The exposure time is very important here, so it is better to include such assets in leave-in hair products. Since progressive hair thinning occurs in androgenetic alopecia, the use of conditioning supplements is also justified.

The authors:

• Tkachev V.P. Candidate med. Sciences. Endocrinologist, trichologist. Head of the course of medical trichology at the FPC MR RUDN University, Moscow.
• Sharova A.A. Candidate med. Sciences. Dermatovenereologist, cosmetologist, trichologist. Associate Professor of the Department of Reconstructive and Plastic Surgery of the Russian National Research Medical University. N.I. Pirogov.

The article was published in the book New Cosmetology. Trichology: diagnosis, treatment and hair care. Under the general editorship of E.I. Hernandez. 2016

The life of the hair at all stages is under the control of hormones (from the Greek “to excite, set in motion”), so it is not at all accidental that the hair is sensitive to almost any neuroendocrine disorders. Hair treatment will not give a positive effect if the hormonal factor is not taken into account. That is why we decided to devote a separate chapter to the neuroendocrine regulation of hair.

2.1. sex hormones

An important milestone in the study of the effect of hormones on body functions was the report of Charles Brown-Séquard in May 1889. He informed the Paris Academy of Sciences about the results of experiments that he had performed on himself. In order to combat old age (he was already over seventy), the scientist destroyed the testicles of a guinea pig, and the extract was injected under the skin of his abdomen. Luckily for the researcher, the experiment was successful and he now felt rejuvenated in every way.

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​​​introducing a rejuvenating cocktail would have occurred to Brown-Séquard if it had not been preceded by a thousand-year experience of mankind, showing what consequences castration and other interventions on hormonally active organs entail for humans and animals.

Even 40 years before Brown-Sekar, Arnold Berthold experimented with roosters, removing and planting their testicles. Those birds, to which he replanted the removed organs, managed to remain healthy roosters, while the rest wrinkled the comb, the sexual instinct died out, pugnacity disappeared, the bright and colorful plumage was replaced by dull, the deposition of fat began. The experiment proved that the normal functioning of the testicles is regulated not only and not so much through innervation, as previously assumed. Indeed, during the operation, the connection between the testicles and their nerves was broken. The main role, according to the observant scientist, was given to "the effect of the testicle on the blood, and then the corresponding effect on the whole organism as a whole."

Aristotle (384-392 BC) noted that “... of all animals, only man becomes bald, because he has the largest and most moist brain. Women do not go bald, because by their nature they are similar to children: both of them do not produce semen. And the eunuch does not become bald, since he turns into a woman, and the hair that appears later either does not grow in him at all, or, if any, falls out, with the exception of pubic hair: after all, women do not have the mentioned hair, but hair on their pubes grow."

Interestingly, Aristotle drew attention to one of the paradoxes from the standpoint of modern endocrinology. After all, the hair follicle is the only “organ” that responds differently to the same hormone (now known to be dihydrotestosterone) depending on its location. Androgens, which stimulate hair growth in areas such as the mustache and beard, chest and belly, often suppress hair follicles on the scalp, causing baldness. Estrogens, on the contrary, provide hair growth on the scalp, but not in the “sexual hair zones”.

In 1935, Ernst Lako isolated the “crystalline male hormone” from the testicles of a bull, in the same year the German chemist Adolf Butenandt obtained and described the structure of testosterone, and a week later Leopold Ruzicka, a Yugoslav chemist, reported on a method for the synthesis of testosterone from cholesterol. The “new” history of androgen use is developing rapidly and loudly. Just four years after the discovery of testosterone, in 1939, Ruzicka and Butenandt received the Nobel Prize for discovering a method for synthesizing testosterone from cholesterol.

Today, the biosynthesis of steroid hormones (steroidogenic pathways) is known in detail (Fig. I-2-1), although there are still "white spots".

Rice. I-2-1. Biosynthesis of steroid hormones in the human body

2.1.1. Androgens

Testosterone and dihydrotestosterone. It is known that testosterone is the main androgen in men. The main source of testosterone - Leydig cells - are located in the testicles, where up to 95% (slightly less than 10 mg) of this hormone is secreted. Only 5% of testosterone is formed by peripheral conversion of precursors in the adrenal glands. Women secrete the same hormones as men, but their ratio differs between the sexes. The level of testosterone secretion in women, produced by the ovaries and adrenal glands, is 10-20 times lower than that of men (Fig. I-2-2).

Rice. I-2-2. Sources of androgens and their peripheral conversion in women of reproductive age

Serum testosterone binds to sex hormone-unifying globulin and, to a lesser extent, to albumin. 1–2% of the total fraction remains in a free form, capable of penetrating into cells and being transformed into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) under the influence of 5α-reductase.

Three isoforms of 5α-reductase are known. In the hair follicles, predominantly type 2 is produced, five-fold increasing the androgenic activity of testosterone in this area. Patients with 5α-reductase deficiency do not grow body hair and do not develop androgenetic alopecia. Scalp biopsy of the frontal and occipital areas of the head showed that balding men and women have higher levels of both types of 5α-reductase in the follicles of the frontal zone compared to follicles from the occipital zone.

According to Sawaya and Price (1997), the concentration of 5α-reductase types 1 and 2 in women is 3 and 3.5 times lower than in men, respectively. It is not surprising that the use of finasteride, a potent type 2 5α-reductase blocker, has a proven beneficial effect in the treatment of androgenetic alopecia in men and, to a lesser extent, in women.

In both men and women, the skin (papillary dermis) and hair follicles themselves produce testosterone (paracrine synthesis), and also ensure its transformation into DHT.

Of interest are publications showing the positive effect on scalp hair growth of topical testosterone therapy. Thus, in the experiment of Christopher et al. (1965) described the positive results of external use of testosterone in male pattern baldness. Men with androgenetic alopecia (21 people) applied testosterone propionate cream daily to the area of ​​baldness. In 75% of the participants in this study, there was an improvement in hair growth in the treatment area.

Thus, not testosterone itself, but namely the activity of 5α-reductase and the accumulation of DHT are factors that cause baldness. Systemic androgen deficiency is not any guarantee of the absence of male pattern alopecia. It is known from practice that even the most thorough study of serum testosterone does not allow a clear understanding of the features of its peripheral synthesis, conversion and interaction of metabolites with receptors of target organs, including hair follicles in each case. In this regard, according to the International guidelines for the diagnosis and treatment of androgenetic alopecia in men and women (Evidence based (S3) guidelines for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia in woman and in men), in order to diagnose androgenetic alopecia, it is not recommended to test testosterone as men and women, unless there are other signs of androgen excess. The author (Tkachev V.P.) has repeatedly observed the presence of androgenetic alopecia in both men and women with testosterone deficiency, its normal level or excess.

The enzyme cytochrome P450-aromatase (aromatase) has functions opposite to 5α-reductase. This enzyme converts testosterone to estradiol and androstenedione to estrone. It is noteworthy that the concentration of aromatase in the fronto-parietal zone in women is 6 times higher than in men, which, apparently, allows women to keep their hair in better condition (Sawaya M.E., Orice V.H., 1997).

Currently, the role of aromatase deficiency is being clarified, especially in the development of female androgenetic alopecia (female pattern hair loss, FPHL). It is known that when treating breast carcinoma with aromatase blockers, many women develop alopecia.

Interestingly, FPHL can also develop in the absence of significant androgen levels. Facts such as the development of baldness in women with hypogonadotropic hypogonadism, the onset of androgenetic alopecia even before the development of puberty, a poor response to treatment with systemic antiandrogens (using cyproterone acetate) and finasteride indicate that hair loss in women is less dependent on androgen activity.

Even more interesting are the reports that testosterone treatment in women, as well as men, in some cases improves hair growth on the scalp. For example, a study by Glaser et al. (2012) showed that among androgen-deficient women, 76 out of 285 patients (27%) complained of thinning hair. Of these, 48 (63%) noted an improvement in hair condition during testosterone therapy. Among those who did not notice an improvement, women with an increased body mass index prevailed (below we will discuss the role of visceral obesity, metabolic syndrome and insulin resistance in the development of alopecia, see Part I, p. 2.5). Thus, the search for other causative factors of female pattern hair loss (FPHL) that are not associated with androgens is relevant.

Dihydroepiandrosterone. Another androgen, dihydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), is synthesized in the body by the adrenal glands. Being a substance of a steroid nature, it acts as a substrate for the synthesis of estrogens and androgens, although it itself has weak androgenic properties.

The positive effect of DHAE on the skin and its appendages is reported in many publications. In particular, this hormone prevents photodamage and stimulates skin healing processes. It is possible that these effects are associated, among other things, with the ability of DHEA to increase procollagen synthesis and inhibit collagen degradation.

The skin contains enzymes to convert circulating DHEA and its sulfated form (DHEA sulfate) into active androgens and estrogens. Most likely, the positive effect on the skin is mediated by estrogens formed as a result of aromatization of DHEA. In vitro studies indicate the existence of a direct inhibitory effect of DHEA on the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6, macrophage migration inhibitor (MIF) and tumor necrosis factor by skin macrophages (Labrie F., et al., 1998).

Starting from the age of 30, the secretion of DHEA by the adrenal glands rapidly decreases, amounting to only 50% of the maximum level by the age of 60. A number of doctors involved in anti-age medicine are of the opinion that it is necessary to carry out replacement therapy with this hormone in case of its age-related deficiency, in the same way as it is done with a deficiency of estrogen, testosterone, thyroxine and other hormones.

Androgen receptors. Androgen receptors play an important role in hair loss. The affinity of androgen receptors for DHT is 5–6 times higher than for testosterone. At the same time, these receptors have a low affinity for DHEA. An assessment of the number of androgen receptors in the area of ​​the frontal hairline showed that in women they are approximately 40% less than in men (Sawaya M.E., Price V.H., 1997).

The production of androgen receptors is regulated by the Xq11-q12 gene located on the long arm of the X chromosome. The connection of the Xq11-q12 gene with baldness is shown on the example of Kennedy's disease (Sinclair R., Greenland K.J., 2007). This disease combines testicular atrophy, low virilization, and progressive spinal muscular atrophy. In 115 patients with Kennedy's disease, the severity of alopecia was significantly lower compared to the control group.

A higher level of androgen receptors was found in those areas where baldness develops most often. Currently, genetic testing technology is being developed to determine the risk of baldness. Research by Prodi D.A. et al. (2008), who included a cohort of 200 men with severe androgenetic alopecia and with its early onset before the age of 30, showed a clear association of alopecia with the Xq11-q12 and EDA2R genes.

Another study, conducted in Germany and including 391 people, made it possible to determine the involvement of another gene in the development of androgenetic alopecia - 3q26. A large population study of 1125 men from Switzerland, Great Britain, the Netherlands, Iceland demonstrated the association of androgenetic alopecia with the locus of chromosome 20p11.22 (Richards J.B. et al., 2008).

In the female type of androgenetic alopecia, no obvious relationship between androgen receptor polymorphisms has been identified (El-Samahy M.H., Shaheen M.A., Saddik D.E., 2009).

2.1.2. Estrogens

Estradiol. Estradiol (17β-estradiol) is a sex hormone from the estrogen family. Chemically, estradiol is a steroid. In addition to estradiol, two more substances are classified as estrogen hormones - these are estrone and estriol. However, it is due to estradiol that the main physiological effects of estrogen hormones are realized. This hormone belongs to the typical female, since it is produced in the body of women in relatively large quantities.

Estradiol creates the female phenotype and is absolutely essential for ovulation. For the synthesis of estradiol, cholesterol is required - it turns into testosterone, part of which, in turn, combines with acetyl-CoA, as a result of which progesterone is formed. Further, estradiol is formed from the available reserves of progesterone and testosterone in the shell of the growing ovarian follicle. During the first phase of the menstrual cycle, almost all progesterone is converted to estradiol, which ensures the growth and maturation of the egg. Then, after ovulation, the ovaries begin to produce large amounts of progesterone. Due to the relatively low rate of conversion of progesterone to estradiol in the second phase of the menstrual cycle in women, it is progesterone that prevails over all other hormones, which causes the corresponding effects. Ranging from 40 pg / ml in the first phase of the menstrual cycle, the concentration of estradiol reaches 450 pg / ml to the ovulatory peak. By menopause, estradiol secretion decreases to 20 pg / ml.

Estradiol production is controlled by follicle-stimulating hormone (FSH), luteinizing hormone (LH) and prolactin, and during pregnancy by human chorionic gonadotropin (hCG). Small amounts of estradiol are also produced by the adrenal cortex in both sexes and by the testicles in men. In men, the main source of estradiol is the conversion (aromatization) of androgens (testosterone and androstenedione) to estrogens in peripheral tissues, which occurs with the participation of the P450-aromatase enzyme.

In women, autocrine estrogen synthesis in peripheral tissues approaches 100% after menopause, apart from small amounts synthesized from ovarian and/or adrenal testosterone and androstenedione. Thus, in postmenopausal women, almost all active sex steroids are produced in target tissues by an autocrine mechanism.

Estradiol causes proliferation of the endometrium, increases the content of collagen, hydration and elasticity of the skin, its turgor, promotes wound healing. Not only the skin itself is sensitive to estrogens, but also its appendages - hair follicles (Thornton M.J, 2005). For example, estradiol prolongs the anagen phase (Hoffman R., 2004).

A number of clinical observations - improvement in hair growth during pregnancy and deterioration in menopause, induction of alopecia by aromatase blockers, positive experience with topical use of estrogens in the scalp - leave no doubt about the beneficial effect of estrogens on the regulation of hair growth. Research shows that estrogen β-receptors are present in human hair follicles with sex-specific differences.

At the same time, it was shown that one of the stereoisomers - 17α-estradiol (alfatraradiol) - is not effective when applied externally for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia in women (Blume-Peytavi U., et al., 2007).

Progesterone. Progesterone is a steroid hormone produced in women by the ovaries and placenta during pregnancy, and in men by the testicles. A small amount of the hormone in both sexes is secreted by the adrenal glands. Progesterone lowers the excitability of the uterine muscles, at the same time increases the tone of the cervix and the uterus itself. Favors the transition to the secretory phase of the mucous membrane of the uterine body, the accumulation of glycogen in it, which is a favorable factor for the development of the fetus. Progesterone contributes to the formation of a female physique, affects hair growth, the development of genital organs, breasts, prepares the body for childbearing, breastfeeding.

Progesterone is the precursor to a number of neurosteroids in the brain. In particular, it is the precursor of allopregnolone, which has an effect on GABA receptors. Thus, progesterone largely "modulates" mood, providing a feeling of peace and relaxation.

Topical progesterone therapy significantly inhibits 5α-reductase in an in vitro study. According to Cassidenti D.L. et al. (1991), at high concentrations, progesterone inhibited the synthesis of DHT by 97%, estradiol - by 41%, while medroxyprogesterone acetate and ethinylestradiol did not show a significant effect.

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Annotation to the presentation

The presentation "Care for hair, skin, hands, nails" tells how to properly care for the skin of hands, face, nails and hair using folk methods. It also describes various diseases of the skin, hair and nails and how to cure them. It explains what is within the competence of a cosmetologist and how he can help.

• Hair care, hair treatment methods;
• Hand skin care, method; treatment of diseases of the skin of the hands;
• Nail care, nail treatments;
• Facial skin care;
• Skin diseases;
• Profession doctor-cosmetologist.

Format

pptx (powerpoint)

Number of slides

Krasnikova I.N.

The audience

The words

Abstract

Present

purpose

• For the teacher to teach

slide 1

Lesson-lecture in the 7th grade.

slide 2

slide 3

Target

To acquaint students with skin types, hair types, ways to care for them; cultivate accuracy, respect for your body.

slide 4

Plan

• Hair care
• Hair Treatment Methods
• Hand skin care
• Methods for the treatment of diseases of the skin of the hands
• Nail care
• Ways to treat nails
• Facial skin care
• Skin diseases
• Profession cosmetologist

slide 5

Hair care

slide 6

Hair

Slide 7

Redheads have the thickest hair, but less of it than brunettes. Blondes have the most hair - approximately 150 thousand. Blacks have the largest hair of all, can be 3 times thicker than blonds.

Slide 8

hair properties

• For a person, hair plays a big role.
• Firstly, they are a wonderful decoration that allows you to emphasize the charm and hide flaws.
• Secondly, they perform a number of important functions. Hair protects the head from overheating and hypothermia. Vellus hair is involved in touch, eyelashes protect the eyes, hair in the nose and ears trap dust.

Slide 9

hair structure

Slide 10

Hair diseases

Internal:

• skin diseases;
• intoxication of the body;
• postoperative period;
• drug allergy;
• irradiation, etc.

• hair coloring;
• the use of tight headgear;
• constant friction on any object;
• various injuries;
• wrong care.

slide 11

• dandruff
• "nesting" alopecia
• dry hair

slide 12

Dry hair

slide 13

Oily hair

Slide 14

Thus, hair can be conditionally divided into 3 groups

1. dry type hair - thin, dull, brittle, easily torn, split, after washing, after 1-2 days, fine dry dandruff appears;
2. oily hair - greasy, sticky, with an unpleasant odor, with oily dandruff;
3. normal type hair

slide 15

Hair Treatment Methods

slide 16

Dry hair: treatment

• Burr oil.

Slide 17

• If you complain of dryness, it is not recommended to rub your hair with a towel and dry it with a hot hair dryer. Use cold air, or dry your hair naturally.

Slide 18

Options for masks at home for dry hair:

Slide 19

Oily hair: treatment

• For the care and treatment of oily hair folk remedies.
• Useful before washing oily hair
• Also for oily hair, onion tincture with vodka is recommended. 1 onion is cut in half, pour 50 ml of vodka and insist 2 weeks. The finished tincture is rubbed into the scalp with pressure massage movements. The smell of onion is destroyed by washing the hair in mustard. Excessive greasiness of the hair can be eliminated by washing the head in a decoction of oak bark (3 tablespoons of oak bark pour 1 liter of water and boil for 15 minutes). The cooled and filtered broth is used as water for washing. This procedure must be repeated every 3 days for several weeks.

Slide 20

Conclusion

slide 21

Hairstyle options:

slide 22

Hand skin care

slide 23

slide 24

Slide 25

Methods for treating the skin of the hands

slide 26

For rough, reddened hands

• It is advisable to conduct a course of masks within a week.

Slide 27

For goose bumps

• Daily procedures are recommended, which are carried out in the morning and evening for several days. To do this, take a natural hair brush, lather it abundantly (you can use shaving cream or soap cream) and carefully wipe your hands, rinse and lubricate with cream.
• For rough skin on the elbows:

Slide 28

Wet hands

• wet hands -

Slide 29

Nail care

slide 30

Slide 31

Nail diagnostics

slide 32

Nail care

• Pale color of the nails indicates anemia. Excessive redness of the nails indicates an excess of red blood cells.
• The reason for the appearance of white stripes on the nails may be the malfunction of the gastrointestinal tract. As a result, some of the food is not digested.

Slide 33

Ways to treat nails

Slide 35

Burrs

Burr treatment

• oils of lemon, bergamot or petit grain. In extreme cases, an ordinary vegetable is also suitable. Keep your hands there for at least 10-15 minutes. Now take special tweezers to remove burrs. In no case do not pull the burr, but carefully bite it with tweezers. If there are no tears on the nail roller, but the skin is rough enough, just sand it with a file

slide 36

Manicure and pedicure

Manicure

Pedicure

Slide 37

Examples of manicure, pedicure

Slide 38

Slide 39

Slide 40

Facial skin care

Slide 41

Slide 42

Skin of any type needs competent and properly selected care. The usual cosmetic procedure for facial skin care includes the following steps:

slide 43

Slide 44

Masks for oily skin

• 
  
• 
  This mask tightens pores and whitens the skin. It will help to cleanse the skin well and give it a fresh look. Beat the protein of 1 egg with the addition of ½ teaspoon of lemon juice. Leave on for 10-15 minutes, then rinse with warm water.
• 
  
• 
  

Slide 45

Facial skin care

Dry skin, as a rule, suffers from a lack of moisture, this is a consequence of damage to the stratum corneum of the epidermis, which in itself is a consequence of temperature changes and other aggressive influences, such as the sun, wind, abuse of decorative cosmetics, etc. To prevent drying, you must not forget to moisturize and nourish dry skin, as well as stimulate metabolic processes.

Slide 46

Masks for dry skin

• Homemade mask for dry and irritated skin
  Scroll one small zucchini through a meat grinder. Leave for twenty minutes for the zucchini to secrete juice, then add one egg yolk to the zucchini mass, mix thoroughly. Apply the resulting mixture in a thick layer on the skin, rinse after twenty minutes.
• Moisturizing mask
  You will need: mix a little fat cream with half a teaspoon of sour cream and lemon juice. Apply the resulting mass to the skin for 20-25 minutes, remove with lotion or tonic.
• Toning mask
  For cooking you will need: 2 teaspoons of yolk, 0.5-1 teaspoons of lemon and pumpkin juice and 1-2 teaspoons of sour cream. This mask tones and slightly brightens dry skin.

Slide 47

Skin diseases

Slide 48

• Rosacea
• eczema allergy

Slide 49

• Couperose
• Mycosis of the skin of the face (fungus on the face)

Slide 50

Profession cosmetologist

Slide 51

Being beautiful is the calling of every woman. But, often many girls do not know how to support the gift of beauty given to them by nature. Beauty is talent. Exactly - the beautician will help you not to let the beauty fade. At present, this profession has become quite widespread. And is in demand.

Slide 52

The competence of the cosmetologist includes

Slide 53

Be healthy.
Your health is in your hands!

Slide 54

Internet resources

http://website/

View all slides

Abstract

Hair care

Hair is an adornment of any person, and in order for it to look good, it must be protected. To save hair, you need to know what it is. Hair is 3% moisture and 97% protein. Protein substance - keratin, enriched with sulfur, trace elements (iron, copper, zinc, chromium, manganese) and vitamins A, B, P, C, D.

hair properties

The structure of the hair shows that its growth, condition and appearance depend on the condition of its papilla, which is the source of its nutrition and development. And also from the vital activity of the sebaceous and sweat glands of the scalp (since they maintain the softness and elasticity of the hair shaft). The functions of the papilla, sebaceous and sweat glands are regulated mainly by the nervous and endocrine systems of the body.

Hair diseases

Dry hair

Oily hair

1) dry type hair oily type hair normal type hair - durable, elastic, with a beautiful natural sheen. They occur mainly in young, practically healthy people.

Dry hair treatment.

Before you start treating dry hair, buy the right shampoo and conditioner for dry hair. And try not to wash your hair for 3-4 days. Wean yourself to wash off the shampoo with hot water. Try to rinse your hair after washing with cold water with vinegar, lemon juice or nettle decoction.

dry hair treatment.

The most effective remedy for strengthening hair, enhancing their growth and giving them softness - Burr oil. It contains a storehouse of vitamins and fatty acids, tannins, which literally "revive" even the most naughty and dry hair.

Before washing your hair, pour warm burdock oil mixed with olive oil (or any other) into a plastic cup for 30-40 minutes. Apply the mixture to the ends of your hair and cover your head with a rubber cap and a towel. An hour later, we go to wash our hair as usual. After washing, the hair will become much softer and will become simply shining!

1. Mix one teaspoon each of vinegar and glycerin with two tablespoons of castor oil and one egg yolk.
2. Mix an egg yolk with one tablespoon of vegetable or olive oil. Add to the mixture a teaspoon of honey, henna and cognac.
3. A good effect is given by a nourishing mask for dry hair, consisting of 3 tablespoons of arnica tincture (sold in pharmacies), two yolks, two tablespoons of burdock oil, one teaspoon of honey and two chopped garlic cloves.
4. Squeeze the juice from half a lemon and mix it with two tablespoons of olive oil. In general, olive oil is used not only for dry hair care, but it is also often used in various face care products. In the Homemade Face Masks section of our website, you will find great olive oil face mask recipes.
5. Rub 1-2 egg yolks, depending on the length of your hair, and mix them with one tablespoon of castor oil.

Greasy hair

For care and treatment oily hair use only approved folk remedies.

Useful before washing oily hair grease them with kefir or yogurt and tie for 15-20 minutes with a towel. Instead of soap, you can take dry mustard by dissolving 1 tablespoon of it in 2 liters of water.

Before washing oily hair, it is useful to do the following procedure: mix 2 tablespoons of onion juice with 2 tablespoons of castor oil. The resulting composition is evenly rubbed into the hair roots, pushing them apart in rows. Then they wrap the head for 30-40 minutes, first with a plastic scarf, and on top with a terry towel.

Also 2-3 hours before washing oily hair

Greasy hair

Conclusion:

Beautiful and healthy hair always attracts attention and makes a woman feel seductive and irresistible. Often, gorgeous hair is not a gift of nature at all, but the result of proper and regular hair care. Even the most stunning hair can look dull and lifeless if not cared for or treated incorrectly.

Hand skin care

It is the hands that most often give out the true age of a person. Intense contact with water and detergents is very unfavorable for good, well-groomed hands, since soap solutions wash away grease and moisture-forming substances from them. The sun, dry air, frost lead to premature aging and the formation of "age spots".

Each person should carefully monitor the condition of the skin of the hands and nails. First of all, you should observe hand hygiene, their cleanliness. Self-care for hands comes down to cleansing, softening and protecting them from harmful effects.

Methods for treating the skin of the hands

Grind 2 potatoes into a liquid puree, add a few drops of glycerin, lemon juice and dip your hands into this mass for 10-15 minutes. Course - 1 week, daily.

Olive oil - 1/4 cup, tea tree oil - 1/4 teaspoon. This composition will soothe irritated skin of the hands.

For goose bumps

For the same purposes, you can use a scrub bought in a store.

For rough skin on the elbows:

• after a shower, daily massage the skin on the elbows with a washcloth, and then lubricate with cream;
• you can rub salt with cream;
• you can make an elbow bath with warm olive oil, then treat the skin with a hair brush and scrub.

Wet hands. This is certainly an unpleasant thing, and it must be vigorously combated.

3 times a day after washing, wipe your hands with a mixture of vodka and lemon juice (1 part juice, 5 parts vodka).

However, these measures may not help, as moisture can be caused by excessive nervousness, improper metabolism, and other reasons.

Nail care

You can learn a lot about your health from your nails. Nails contain a variety of microelements, such as selenium, calcium, chromium, phosphorus, zinc, etc. All these microelements are very important for the health of our body, but it may happen that the metabolism in the body is disturbed for some reason. These violations will immediately affect the nails, perhaps this will be the only external manifestation.

Nail diagnostics

Long lines (longitudinal grooves) on the nails may indicate poor absorption of food in the digestive system, an unbalanced diet, the presence of chronic inflammatory diseases (paranasal sinuses, teeth, or incipient rheumatism).

Transverse grooves on the nails can indicate diseases of the internal organs (kidneys, liver, gastrointestinal tract).

Sometimes the nails are excessively protruding, convex. This condition of the nails indicates weakness of the heart and lungs.

A concave nail is an indicator of iron deficiency.

The yellowness of the nails indicates a weakness of the liver or hepatitis (in those who do not yellow them with nicotine).

Blue nails indicate a weak heart.

Ways to treat nails

Brittle nails

Treatment of brittle nails:

Burr treatment

Burrs are small, painful breaks in the skin. The reason for them is the loss of elasticity of the skin. The skin does not withstand tension and bursts. The treatment consists in the daily use of a fatty cream.

Damage to the skin during hangnails, injections, injuries can cause a purulent focus in the finger - panaritium.

Steam the skin of your hands in a warm bath, where you first add 5 - 10 drops of essential sand it down with a saw. Be sure to treat small cuts and wounds with any disinfectant.
Manicure- cosmetic procedure for the treatment of nails on the fingers and the fingers themselves. Manicure is performed both in beauty salons or beauty parlors by qualified specialists, and at home.

Pedicure- special toe care (e.g. callus removal, nail polishing). In fact, it is an analogue of a manicure for the legs.

Facial skin care

Every day, the skin is exposed to various stressful influences. Nothing passes without a trace, and rain, and wind, and temperature changes, and the sun, and dry indoor air, and stress, and overstrain - all this does not pass without a trace for our skin. And now, after only 25-30 years of life, it gradually begins to fade. The initial changes are minor and we don't pay much attention to them. But if nothing is done further, then in a couple of years much more careful care will be needed to restore its individual functions.

Skin with increased activity of the sebaceous glands gives its owners a lot of trouble, and the main thing it needs is the stimulation of metabolic processes and, of course, hydration.

Kefir mask for oily skin

This mask cleanses and dries the skin. Using a cotton swab, evenly apply a small amount of kefir to cleansed skin. Leave on for 15 minutes, then rinse with cool water.

Protein mask for oily skin

Yeast mask for oily skin

Dilute 1 tsp. crushed yeast in warm water with the addition of 1 tsp. lemon juice. Then add 1 egg white to the resulting mixture. Mix everything thoroughly. Hold for 15 minutes, wash off the loan.

Honey mask for oily skin

This mask refreshes and softens the skin, and evens out the complexion. To 2 tsp. honey add 1 tbsp. yogurt or sour cream and a few drops of lemon juice. Mix. Apply a thick layer on the face for 15 minutes. Wash off with cool water.

Profession cosmetologist

Lesson summary for grade 7 on the section "Beauty and health".

Hair care

Hair is an adornment of any person, and in order for it to look good, it must be protected. To save hair, you need to know what it is. Hair is 3% moisture and 97% protein. Protein substance - keratin, enriched with sulfur, trace elements (iron, copper, zinc, chromium, manganese) and vitamins A, B, P, C, D.

Hair grows all over the body except on the palms and soles. An adult has about 100,000 hairs, and their number depends on the color. Redheads have the thickest hair, but less of it than brunettes. Blondes have the most hair - approximately 150,000. Blacks have the largest hair of all, can be 3 times thicker than blonds.

The hair on the head is unevenly distributed: more on the crown of the head, less on the temporal part and near the forehead. The first human hair appears at the end of the third month of fetal development. Hair grows differently too. The fastest on the head (for 3 days - about 1 mm), the slowest - on the eyebrows.

An individual hair lives on average from a few months to 6 years. Eyelashes live from 3 to 5 months, vellus - 7-10 months. It is considered normal if 30 to 50 hairs fall out on the head per day. hair properties

Growing healthy hair is usually strong and resilient. The hair can be stretched to 1/5 of its length, and after that it returns to its state. In terms of strength, they are comparable to aluminum and are able to withstand a load of 100 to 200 g. It is not surprising, therefore, that in the old days, ropes were woven from women's braids, designed to lift large loads. Hair is hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb moisture. They are quite resistant to weak acids, but they do not tolerate alkaline compounds.

For a person, hair plays a big role. Firstly, they are a wonderful decoration that allows you to emphasize the charm, hide flaws, and, secondly, they perform a number of important functions. Hair protects the head from overheating and hypothermia. Vellus hair is involved in touch, eyelashes protect the eyes, hair in the nose and ears trap dust.

Hair has the ability to accumulate certain substances, which allows it to be used as an identifier. Criminalists have long successfully used this property of hair in their work.

The structure of the hair shows that its growth, condition and appearance depend on the condition of its papilla, which is the source of its nutrition and development. And also from the vital activity of the sebaceous and sweat glands of the scalp (since they maintain the softness and elasticity of the hair shaft). The functions of the papilla, sebaceous and sweat glands are regulated mainly by the nervous and endocrine systems of the body.

Hair diseases

The causes that lead to hair disease are divided into internal and external. External ones include hair coloring, bleaching and prolonged use of tight hats, constant rubbing against an object (for example, children experience hair loss on the back of the head when rubbing against a pillow), various injuries and improper care.

Internal causes include: skin diseases (furunculosis, mycosis, etc.); intoxication of the body; infectious diseases (typhus, syphilis, etc.); postoperative period; drug allergy; disorders of the nervous system, hormonal dysfunction; deficiency of vitamins and microelements (for example, iron, sulfur, zinc, vitamins A, E, etc.); exposure; dysfunction of the gastrointestinal tract.

With the exhaustion of the nervous system, overwork, depression, dryness and brittle hair are observed, accompanied by the appearance of dandruff. Dandruff is the result of excessive desquamation of the surface of the stratum corneum (accompanied by itching). Dryness is caused by a weakening of the function of the sebaceous and sweat glands. The papilla decreases, the follicle is depleted, causing dystrophy. Which leads to massive hair loss over time.

With severe stress, patchy "nested" alopecia may occur: rounded areas are formed on the skin, almost completely devoid of hair. And if nesting baldness is not accompanied by the death of the papilla, then, although slowly, the growth process is restored.

Another reason for damage to the hair papilla is various types of intoxication of the body (infectious, food, pregnancy-related, etc.). Sometimes the hair falls out in bunches, and not only on the head, but also on the eyebrows, eyelashes, and on the body. Intoxication can be caused by a decrease in the cleansing function of the kidneys. This will not be slow to affect the condition of the skin and hair.

To dryness, brittle hair can lead to insufficient levels of hormones in the blood. This is also the result of malnutrition and malnutrition.

Dry hair

A common cause of dryness and hair loss is improper hair care and traumatic actions. External causes listed include frequent use of alkaline soaps, hot hair dryers, rough combing (with metal and poor-quality burred wooden combs), dyeing with a fixer at a perhydrol concentration of more than 12%, increased solar activity combined with dry wind (at sea), and also long-term wearing of one type of hairstyle (ponytail, bouffant) and parting. Improper care leads to the fact that the hair changes its structure and begins to split, this disease is called trichoptilosis.

Oily hair

Changing the functions of various organs and body systems can lead to oily hair. At the same time, the hair becomes greasy, sticks together, becomes covered with greasy scales - dandruff. The disease is called seborrhea (was discussed above). Increased fat content can also be caused by improper care - rubbing a large amount of fatty nourishing oils, masks.

Thus, hair can be divided into three groups:

1) dry type hair - thin, dull, brittle, easily torn, split, after washing, fine dry dandruff appears after 1-2 days; 2) oily type hair - sebaceous, stick together, with an unpleasant odor, with oily dandruff; 3) normal type hair - durable, elastic, with a beautiful natural sheen. They occur mainly in young, practically healthy people.

Dry hair treatment.

There are many ways, so do not get upset. Moreover, many of them have an instant healing effect. And with prolonged use, your dry hair will turn into silky and shiny.

Before you start treating dry hair, buy the right shampoo and conditioner for dry hair. And try not to wash your hair for 3-4 days. Wean yourself to wash off the shampoo with hot water. Try to rinse your hair after washing with cold water with vinegar, lemon juice or nettle decoction.

Your hair will feel and look better. After 2 weeks of such therapy, you will be pleasantly surprised!

If everything remains the same, proceed directly to dry hair treatment.

The most effective remedy for strengthening hair, enhancing their growth and giving them softness - Burr oil. It contains a storehouse of vitamins and fatty acids, tannins, which literally "revive" even the most naughty and dry hair.

Before washing your hair, pour warm burdock oil mixed with olive oil (or any other) into a plastic cup for 30-40 minutes. Apply the mixture to the ends of your hair and cover your head with a rubber cap and a towel. An hour later, we go to wash our hair as usual. After washing, the hair will become much softer and will become simply shining!

A few simple recipes for nourishing masks for dry hair.

1. Mix one teaspoon each of vinegar and glycerin with two tablespoons of castor oil and one egg yolk.
2. Mix an egg yolk with one tablespoon of vegetable or olive oil. Add to the mixture a teaspoon of honey, henna and cognac.
3. A good effect is given by a nourishing mask for dry hair, consisting of 3 tablespoons of arnica tincture (sold in pharmacies), two yolks, two tablespoons of burdock oil, one teaspoon of honey and two chopped garlic cloves.
4. Squeeze the juice from half a lemon and mix it with two tablespoons of olive oil. In general, olive oil is used not only for dry hair care, but it is also often used in various face care products. In the Homemade Face Masks section of our website, you will find great olive oil face mask recipes.
5. Rub 1-2 egg yolks, depending on the length of your hair, and mix them with one tablespoon of castor oil.

Greasy hair

For care and treatment oily hair use only approved folk remedies.

Useful before washing oily hair grease them with kefir or yogurt and tie for 15-20 minutes with a towel. Instead of soap, you can take dry mustard by dissolving 1 tablespoon of it in 2 liters of water.

Before washing oily hair, it is useful to do the following procedure: mix 2 tablespoons of onion juice with 2 tablespoons of castor oil. The resulting composition is evenly rubbed into the hair roots, pushing them apart in rows. Then they wrap the head for 30-40 minutes, first with a plastic scarf, and on top with a terry towel.

Also for oily hair, onion tincture with vodka is recommended. 1 onion is cut in half, pour 50 ml of vodka and insist 2 weeks. The finished tincture is rubbed into the scalp with pressure massage movements. The smell of onion is destroyed by washing the hair in mustard.

Also 2-3 hours before washing oily hair you can rub carrot juice into the scalp. This will reduce the oiliness of the hair. Excessive greasiness of the hair can be eliminated by washing the head in a decoction of oak bark (3 tablespoons of oak bark pour 1 liter of water and boil for 15 minutes). The cooled and filtered broth is used as water for washing. This procedure must be repeated every 3 days for several weeks.

Greasy hair it is useful to wash with a decoction of horsetail. To prepare it, 2 tablespoons of horsetail herb are poured into 1 liter of boiling water, boiled over low heat for 10 minutes, insisted for 15-20 minutes, then filtered.

Conclusion:

Beautiful and healthy hair always attracts attention and makes a woman feel seductive and irresistible. Often, gorgeous hair is not a gift of nature at all, but the result of proper and regular hair care. Even the most stunning hair can look dull and lifeless if not cared for or treated incorrectly.

Hand skin care

It is the hands that most often give out the true age of a person. Intense contact with water and detergents is very unfavorable for good, well-groomed hands, since soap solutions wash away grease and moisture-forming substances from them. The sun, dry air, frost lead to premature aging and the formation of "age spots".

Each person should carefully monitor the condition of the skin of the hands and nails. First of all, you should observe hand hygiene, their cleanliness. Self-care for hands comes down to cleansing, softening and protecting them from harmful effects.

To protect against harmful substances, you can use a protective cream, and better, if possible, rubber gloves.

When washing your hands, try to use soaps with an alkaline environment corresponding to normal skin (pH - 5.5-6.5).

Methods for treating the skin of the hands

For hardened, reddened hands, it is advisable to conduct a course of masks during the week.

Grind 2 potatoes into a liquid puree, add a few drops of glycerin, lemon juice and dip your hands into this mass for 10-15 minutes. Course - 1 week, daily.

Olive oil - 1/4 cup, tea tree oil - 1/4 teaspoon. This composition will soothe irritated skin of the hands.

For goose bumps daily procedures should be recommended, which are carried out in the morning and evening for several days. To do this, take a natural hair brush, lather it abundantly (you can use shaving cream or soap cream) and carefully wipe your hands, rinse and lubricate with cream.

For the same purposes, you can use a scrub bought in a store.

For rough skin on the elbows:

• after a shower, daily massage the skin on the elbows with a washcloth, and then lubricate with cream;
• you can rub salt with cream;
• you can make an elbow bath with warm olive oil, then treat the skin with a hair brush and scrub.

Wet hands. This is certainly an unpleasant thing, and it must be vigorously combated.

3 times a day after washing, wipe your hands with a mixture of vodka and lemon juice (1 part juice, 5 parts vodka).

However, these measures may not help, as moisture can be caused by excessive nervousness, improper metabolism, and other reasons.

Nail care

You can learn a lot about your health from your nails. Nails contain a variety of microelements, such as selenium, calcium, chromium, phosphorus, zinc, etc. All these microelements are very important for the health of our body, but it may happen that the metabolism in the body is disturbed for some reason. These violations will immediately affect the nails, perhaps this will be the only external manifestation.

Nail diagnostics

Long lines (longitudinal grooves) on the nails may indicate poor absorption of food in the digestive system, an unbalanced diet, the presence of chronic inflammatory diseases (paranasal sinuses, teeth, or incipient rheumatism).

Transverse grooves on the nails can indicate diseases of the internal organs (kidneys, liver, gastrointestinal tract).

Sometimes the nails are excessively protruding, convex. This condition of the nails indicates weakness of the heart and lungs.

A concave nail is an indicator of iron deficiency.

Pale nails indicate anemia. Excessive redness of the nails - an excess of red blood cells.

The yellowness of the nails indicates a weakness of the liver or hepatitis (in those who do not yellow them with nicotine).

Blue nails indicate a weak heart.

Ways to treat nails

Brittle nails- the most common nail defect. The reasons for it may be different. This is the lack of vitamins A and D in the body, the frequent use of harmful substances (washing powder, varnish, acetone, etc.).

Treatment of brittle nails:

• saturation of nails with vitamin D and A;
• include dishes with the use of gelatin (aspic, marmalade, etc.) in the diet;
• baths for nails: Sunflower oil - 1/4 cup Vitamin A - 5 drops Iodine tincture - 3 drops
• Course 2 weeks - daily for 20 minutes. It is useful to make baths from sea or table salt once every 2 days.

Burr treatment

Burrs are small, painful breaks in the skin. The reason for them is the loss of elasticity of the skin. The skin does not withstand tension and bursts. The treatment consists in the daily use of a fatty cream.

Damage to the skin during hangnails, injections, injuries can cause a purulent focus in the finger - panaritium.

Steam the skin of your hands in a warm bath, where you first add 5 - 10 drops of essential lemon, bergamot or petit grain oils. In extreme cases, an ordinary vegetable is also suitable. Keep your hands there for at least 10-15 minutes. Now take special tweezers to remove burrs. In no case do not pull the burr, but carefully bite it with tweezers. If there are no tears on the nail roller, but the skin is quite rough, just sand it down with a saw. Be sure to treat small cuts and wounds with any disinfectant.
Manicure- cosmetic procedure for the treatment of nails on the fingers and the fingers themselves. Manicure is performed both in beauty salons or beauty parlors by qualified specialists, and at home.

Pedicure- special toe care (e.g. callus removal, nail polishing). In fact, it is an analogue of a manicure for the legs.

Facial skin care

Every day, the skin is exposed to various stressful influences. Nothing passes without a trace, and rain, and wind, and temperature changes, and the sun, and dry indoor air, and stress, and overstrain - all this does not pass without a trace for our skin. And now, after only 25-30 years of life, it gradually begins to fade. The initial changes are minor and we don't pay much attention to them. But if nothing is done further, then in a couple of years much more careful care will be needed to restore its individual functions.

Skin of any type needs competent and properly selected care. The usual cosmetic procedure for facial skin care includes the stages of superficial and deep cleansing, moisturizing, oxygen treatments, professional massage, nutrition, smoothing and lifting.

If your skin does not have any aesthetic defects, then it is enough for you to try to keep it always moisturized and well cleaned.

Skin with increased activity of the sebaceous glands gives its owners a lot of trouble, and the main thing it needs is the stimulation of metabolic processes and, of course, hydration.

Kefir mask for oily skin

This mask cleanses and dries the skin. Using a cotton swab, evenly apply a small amount of kefir to cleansed skin. Leave on for 15 minutes, then rinse with cool water.

Protein mask for oily skin

This mask tightens pores and whitens the skin. It will help to cleanse the skin well and give it a fresh look. Beat the white of 1 egg with the addition of ½ teaspoon of lemon juice. Leave on for 10-15 minutes, then rinse with warm water.

Yeast mask for oily skin

Dilute 1 tsp. crushed yeast in warm water with the addition of 1 tsp. lemon juice. Then add 1 egg white to the resulting mixture. Mix everything thoroughly. Hold for 15 minutes, wash off the loan.

Honey mask for oily skin

This mask refreshes and softens the skin, and evens out the complexion. To 2 tsp. honey add 1 tbsp. yogurt or sour cream and a few drops of lemon juice. Mix. Apply a thick layer on the face for 15 minutes. Wash off with cool water.

Dry skin, as a rule, suffers from a lack of moisture, this is a consequence of damage to the stratum corneum of the epidermis, which in itself is a consequence of temperature changes and other aggressive influences, such as the sun, wind, abuse of decorative cosmetics, etc. To prevent drying, you must not forget to moisturize and nourish the skin in a timely manner, dry skin, as well as stimulate metabolic processes.

Profession cosmetologist

The competence of the cosmetologist includes determining the type of patient's skin and prescribing the necessary individual procedure. Also, a cosmetologist is familiar with all diseases of the skin, so he is also involved in their treatment. The specialist will always determine the disease that worries you and select the necessary treatment. At present, the cosmetologist, in addition to performing the usual procedures to maintain the skin in the required condition, owns almost all the methods of therapeutic cosmetology of the “face” and “body” areas. These are massage, hardware cosmetology, procedures for the introduction of gels and restylane, injection of acupuncture points and areas in need of it with homeopathic remedies. Also, a cosmetologist, if desired, can perform electrophoresis, ozone therapy and oxygen therapy for all areas of the body, lymphatic drainage.

Download abstract

At first glance, our hair and nails grow more for beauty than for good, but strong nails allowed our primitive ancestors to pick out edible roots, and dense vegetation on the body and head protected from the weather.

Through thousands of years of using tools, living in comfortable homes and wearing clothes, our appearance has become much more attractive. However, even today, we have more or less hair on almost our entire body, we still do small work with our nails (for example, remove candy wrappers), and hair to some extent protect the head from cold or scorching heat. sun.

Each hair consists of a shaft (visible part) and a follicle in which the root (skin papilla) is located. The follicle is lubricated by the secretion of the sebaceous gland.

Hair and nails are made up primarily of keratin (a type of protein) that also forms the outer layer of the skin. Keratin is what makes up the hair, horns, and hooves of animals. The hair and nails themselves are devoid of almost all sensitivity - we feel their shearing no more than sheep in the hands of shearers or a horse during forging. But if you pull on a hair or a nail, your sensitive skin will immediately let you know about it.

How hair grows

Hair is so inherent in our nature that even during the period of prenatal development, the baby's body is covered with the thinnest hairline (lanuto). Shortly before birth, it is replaced by the so-called primordial fluff, and only as it grows, ordinary hair gradually appears on the head and body of the child.

About 120,000 hairs grow on the head of an adult. Each hair on the head and body grows from its own root called the dermal papilla. At its base, the root enters a tiny sac in the skin or follicle, where it receives nourishment from the blood vessels. Each follicle contains a sebaceous gland that secretes a microscopic amount of an oily substance called sebum. This substance lubricates the hair and gives it shine. In addition, the follicle is equipped with a tiny muscle, the Latin name of which means "hair lifter". From the cold and from fear, these muscles contract, and the hair stands on end. Here it is just time to remember the times when our ancestors were completely covered with hair, and disheveled wool helped them keep warm or gave them a more formidable look. Birds, too, wrap themselves in an insulating air cushion as they puff up in the bitter cold, and cats have their hair stand up at the sight of a dog, making them look bigger and scarier. When these muscles contract, small tubercles appear on our skin - the familiar “goosebumps”.

The shape of the body of the nail is partly determined by genetic factors and therefore is often inherited.

growth rate

The hair growth process consists of several phases. It begins with the active phase, during which the hair is constantly growing from the root. After about 4 years, it is replaced by a resting phase, when the fully grown hair gradually becomes thinner and falls out. During the third phase, the empty follicle rests for several months, after which the whole process begins again.

The hair on the head grows at a rate of 1.25 cm per month, with little variation from person to person. Of course, they grow much longer on the head than on other parts of the body. On average, a person loses from 40 to 100 obsolete hair per day, but instead of them, new ones always grow in rested follicles. Due to hormonal changes during puberty, boys and girls grow hair under the arms and on the pubis, and a little later, boys begin to grow hair on the face and often on the chest and back. This type of hairline is one of the secondary sexual characteristics.

Hair types and shapes

The visible part of the hair is a core of keratinized tissue, consisting of protein chains linked together. Only the growing part of the hair, hidden in the skin papilla, is truly alive. Under the microscope, it is clearly seen that the surface of the hair shaft is covered with scales, like the skin of reptiles or bird's feet. The surface of the nail has the same appearance. Depending on the shape of the hair shaft, the hair is straight, wavy or curly. Straight hair has a round shaft, wavy or curly hair has an oval shaft, and African-type hair (most clearly represented by the Afro hairstyle) is curved in a spiral.

In most bald men, the hair begins to thin from the temples; gradually the border of the hairline on both sides recedes to the back of the head. By the age of 70, this form of baldness occurs in 80% of men, although quite often bald patches appear from the age of 20-30.

Hair color

In addition to the cells that produce keratin, which makes up the hair shaft, there are other cells in the follicles - melanocytes. The melanin pigment they produce gives hair its color. The more melanin, the darker the hair (it is thanks to melanin that fair skin is covered with a dark tan in the sun)

As a person ages, less and less melanin is produced in the follicles, and the hair gradually turns gray. The type and color of hair, as well as the age at which graying begins, is determined by hereditary factors.

The nail is a protective horny plate and grows from a root that looks like a small roller at the tips of the fingers and toes. The part of the nail or hole directly adjacent to the root is slightly thicker than the rest of the plate, which makes it appear white. The rest of the nail is almost transparent, and the skin underneath is visible. Along the edges, it is protected by a layer of keratinized skin (cuticle), somewhat thickened around the hole.

The hair on a man's face is much coarser than the hair on his head. Men who use an electric razor instead of a traditional razor risk damaging their mustache and beard hair. If a regular blade gives a clean cut, then an electric razor is serrated.

Baldness

If bald men are a common occurrence, then women rarely go bald, although their hair also becomes noticeably thinner with age. Usually, the tendency to baldness is inherited in men and is associated with the sensitivity of hair follicles to the male sex hormone androgen. The follicles are still active, but only light baby fluff grows out of them.

Hair loss, called alopecia, is possible at any age (even in children). Usually it has a focal character, but can lead to complete hair loss. It is known, in particular, that the constant tightening of hair in a tight bun (ponytail) leads to their thinning or partial baldness.

It happens that due to illness or severe stress, the growth of new hair temporarily stops. As a result, some of them fall out, and the person goes bald for a while.

damaged nails

With a severe bruise at the base of the nail on the arm or leg, the nail root is damaged, and the nail may fall out. On average, nails grow at a rate of 0.5 mm per week.

The nail grows in the so-called bed. Unlike the horny surface of the nail, it consists of living cells.

Nails and cuticles should never be cut or bitten. So you can introduce an infection and cause a painful purulent abscess or panaritium (paronychia).