Do-it-yourself winter underground greenhouse. Self-construction of an underground greenhouse. There are such paintings as

At first glance, building an underground greenhouse with your own hands seems incomprehensible. Some abandon the idea due to a lack of understanding of the need and feasibility of deepening the greenhouse, others are put off by the laboriousness of the process. However, if you deal with everything in order, the advantages and effectiveness of pit construction become obvious. Having learned the main points of arrangement and having studied the step-by-step construction technology, you can begin to independently create a thermos greenhouse.

Energy-efficient underground greenhouse-thermos

The principle of operation of a greenhouse buried in the ground

The base of the recessed greenhouse is in the ground, the sun's rays penetrate inside through the transparent roof. This solution allows you to achieve a thermal insulation effect without heating equipment. Underground in a winter thermos greenhouse, you can grow different types of plants, including exotic ones, as the report in the video proves.

Video: Variety of crops grown in a recessed thermos greenhouse

Why hide a greenhouse in the ground?

The practice of building greenhouses in the ground has lost its former popularity, and today in-depth structures on a summer cottage are rather exotic. The main reason for abandoning dugouts is the laboriousness of digging a pit. Some agronomists prefer traditional construction due to better illumination of plants.

However, there are plenty of good reasons for setting up an underground greenhouse for vegetable growing and gardening:

The walls of the recessed greenhouse accumulate heat using the principle of a thermos, stabilizing the temperature regime of the microclimate in the nursery. The difference between day and night temperatures is about 5 °C.
Thanks to the cumulative effect, in the southern regions it is possible to do without forced heating throughout the year, and in cold regions it is possible to significantly reduce heating costs in winter.
The cost of an underground greenhouse is significantly lower than the construction of a conventional greenhouse. Wall decoration is minimal - it can be made from old bricks or logs. The covering fabric is used exclusively for the roof.

Recessed greenhouse made of brick and polycarbonate

Drawings and photos of structures

All pit greenhouses, depending on the depth and height of the walls, are divided into two groups: buried and underground.

Recessed greenhouses are partially immersed in the soil - to a depth of about 50-80 cm. The height of the ground walls reaches 110-150 cm and higher. Building a greenhouse underground with your own hands comes down to preparing a pit and installing a traditional structure. The presence of ground walls makes the building more vulnerable to cold weather.

Partially buried thermos greenhouse

Drawing of a gable recessed building

An underground greenhouse requires the presence of only a shelter and a supporting horizontal beam in the above-ground part. The construction is painstaking in its arrangement and requires a special approach to lighting.

Underground greenhouse for year-round gardening

Assembly diagram of an underground “thermos”

Depending on the height of the opposite walls, horizontal and inclined greenhouses are distinguished. In the first case, the support beams on the longitudinal sides are identical. This thermos greenhouse is suitable for areas with flat terrain.

Horizontal model of an underground greenhouse

Inclined models are used mainly on slopes. An interesting option is to add a greenhouse to the house. The main requirement here is the choice of the sunny side and the optimal angle of inclination of the roof.

Sloping version of the greenhouse

When building a Walipini “thermos” (an American development for cold mountainous areas), the most rational angle is considered to be 39°, which provides maximum illumination due to perpendicular sunlight hitting the plants.

Based on the shape of the roof, underground year-round greenhouses are:

gable;
single-pitched;
tunnel (arched).

Walipini thermos greenhouse diagram

Gable - the classic “house” model. The roof slope angle is 30°-40°, but in regions with snowy winters an increase in this parameter is permissible. The main advantage is exposure to the sun for as long as possible during the day.

Lean-to greenhouses are quite compact, but are limited in receiving natural light, especially in winter. Artificial lighting is often used to support plant growth and fruiting.

An example of a solution for a lean-to underground greenhouse

Tunnel frames are constructed from metal arcs and covered with film or polycarbonate. Pros: Easy to assemble and all-round illumination. Minus - compared to gable greenhouses, arched greenhouses are more susceptible to gusts of wind.

Arched or tunnel thermos greenhouse

Advantages and disadvantages of an underground greenhouse

When planning year-round cultivation of crops in a greenhouse underground, you need to weigh all the pros and cons of the “thermos”. Gardeners include the following main advantages of an in-depth greenhouse:

Temperature balance. In winter, without mechanical heating, the temperature reaches +10 °C, and in summer, plants are protected from overheating (up to +22 °C). Recessed walls prevent sunburn by providing a diffused flow of light.
Versatility. The winter thermos greenhouse is suitable for vegetable growing, floriculture and exotic gardening. Amateur Michurins and experienced gardeners cultivate heat-loving plants all year round.
Efficiency. An in-ground greenhouse fully justifies the construction costs and pays for itself in the first two years for the industrial cultivation of vegetables, herbs, seedlings, and flowers. The structure is indispensable in regions with short summers.
High strength. The squat nature of the “thermos” makes it resistant to wind and hurricanes. This quality guarantees durability.

The versatility of an underground greenhouse

Negative points of buried greenhouses:

High humidity. Atmospheric precipitation settling in the soil is transferred into the room - the level of relative humidity increases. Possible consequences: development of mold, moss and pathogenic fungi. To minimize negative factors, you should take care of supply and exhaust ventilation.
The complexity of construction with your own hands. Only excavation work is particularly difficult - construction equipment will have to be used to carry it out. However, when constructing a small semi-buried thermos greenhouse underground, you can do the digging yourself. It is advisable to involve two or three assistants.

Requirements for buried greenhouses

The tactics for constructing an underground thermos greenhouse have a number of nuances that are important to consider at the design stage. The main points relate to location and dimensions.

The possibility of shadows from neighboring buildings and plantings should be excluded.
To increase the lighting intensity, the longitudinal side is oriented in the east-west direction.
Proximity to a body of water is extremely undesirable - this can lead to the appearance of dampness inside the underground greenhouse.
If cold gusty winds prevail in the region, then it is advisable to protect the dugout and build a fence. The wind barrier should not be placed too close - with a roof height of 2.5 m, a distance of 8-10 m is considered optimal.
An underground thermos greenhouse is a capital structure and it is impossible to move it to another location. Therefore, it is necessary to provide in advance for the availability of water for irrigation and convenient entry.

As for the dimensions, there are no restrictions on length, and the maximum width is 5 m. If the parameter is exceeded, the heating intensity and light reflection deteriorate.

The depth of the dugout has a special influence on the heat-holding capacity. The base of the thermos greenhouse should not reach groundwater, but the beds should be laid out at least 1 m below the soil freezing level. In temperate climates, the minimum depth is 2 m.

The minimum depth of the thermos greenhouse is 2 m

How to build a thermos greenhouse - step-by-step instructions

Step-by-step instructions with visual photos will help you decide on materials, understand the order of construction of a buried greenhouse, and, as a result, make a compact dugout for your dacha using your own resources.

Step 1: preparation of materials and tools

The main structural elements of a greenhouse buried in the ground: walls, frame and roofing.

Thermoblocks are mainly used for walls. The building material consists of polystyrene foam walls connected by jumpers. The blocks are used as formwork, and after installation they are filled with concrete. The result is a durable and insulated wall.

Thermoblock for the construction of a recessed greenhouse

The roof frame is constructed from metal profiles or wood. The first option will provide adequate strength and wear resistance, but processing metal structures requires skills in working with a welding machine. It is easier to make a frame from wooden slats and treat it with protective impregnation.

The following are used as shelter:

film - low cost, but limited service life - 2-3 years;
glass – fire resistance, sufficient transparency, but the “sheathing” is fragile and expensive;
polycarbonate - impact resistance, ductility, resistance to UV rays, service life - up to 10-15 years.

Cellular polycarbonate for covering greenhouses

The optimal solution for an underground thermos greenhouse is 6 mm thick cellular polycarbonate.

In addition to the materials described, to build an underground greenhouse with your own hands you will need:

reinforcement, cement, crushed stone and sand for the foundation;
polystyrene foam boards and reflective film for additional thermal insulation;
plaster mixture;
fasteners: screws, nails, nuts.

Required tools:

jigsaw;
bayonet and shovel shovels;
concrete mixer;
hammer;
pliers;
Master OK;
tape measure, plumb line and level.

Pit preparation

Step 2: how to make the base of the greenhouse

The basis of the greenhouse in the ground is the foundation in a prepared pit. Therefore, the first stage is marking the site for an underground greenhouse and carrying out earthworks.

As a rule, the area of underground construction is 10-50 square meters. m. It is very difficult to handle such a volume on your own, so it is better to use the services of an excavator. The walls of the dug pit must be leveled with a shovel to achieve the desired dimensions.

At this stage, it is worth considering the need and methods of an additional heating system - whether a communications supply will be required.

The next stage is laying the strip foundation. It can be replaced with concrete blocks. If the thermos greenhouse is partially buried in the ground, then the base rises to the full depth of the pit or slightly above the middle.

Sequencing:

Prepare wooden formwork - place wedges at a distance of 30 cm inside the perimeter of the pit. Make sides from the boards. Immediately mark the place under the door - do not pour the foundation here.
Mix gravel and sand in equal parts and fill the trench. The thickness of the “pillow” is 10 cm.
Weld the reinforcement block. The reinforcing frame must consist of at least 4 rods.
Install the armored belt on the sand and gravel backfill. It is necessary to remove the metal protrusions - they will fix the thermal blocks and the base of the canopy will be attached to them.
Combine sand, cement and crushed stone (5:1:3), add water and knead the solution.
Fill the formwork with the prepared mixture.

Installation of formwork for concrete pouring

Work continues after 25 days - the foundation should gain strength. At the end of the period, the formwork can be removed and the concrete base treated with bitumen mastic to protect it from moisture.

Step 3: constructing the frame

To increase the height of the underground greenhouse, thermal blocks are placed through which metal rods from the foundation are threaded. The voids in the blocks are filled with concrete. The entrance is framed with wooden beams.

The height of the walls of a recessed thermos greenhouse is at least 50 cm. This value is enough so that in winter snowdrifts do not clutter up the covering material and do not interfere with the flow of light.

Raising the walls of a thermos greenhouse above ground level

Before constructing the frame, the greenhouse is thermally insulated. The inner part is lined with foil insulation - due to the reflection of sunlight, heat accumulation will increase.

Prepare the parts of the rafter system and treat the wooden blanks with an antiseptic.
Connect the rafters and reinforce them with metal corners.
Form a support from the rafters and place a ridge beam under them.
Connect the outer rafters to the beam using self-tapping screws.
Install jumpers on the front support between the flashings and rafters.
Paint the wooden frame.

Thermal greenhouse roof truss system

Step 4: Covering the Greenhouse

Polycarbonate is fastened using:

roofing screws;
connecting profile;
self-tapping screws with a thermal washer made of polymer.

The sequence of covering an underground greenhouse-thermos:

Using a sharp knife or jigsaw, cut a polycarbonate sheet to the size of the roof. It is important not to damage the stabilizing coating.
Place the workpiece on a flat surface, mark the attachment points with a marker and drill holes.
Glue the ends of the polycarbonate with sealing tape.
Attach the canvas to the frame with the stabilizing side facing outwards and, holding it, screw in the screws. Fasteners must fit perpendicularly into the polycarbonate.
Join adjacent sheets through a connecting profile.
Secure an iron roofing angle along the ridge beam.

Covering the thermos greenhouse with polycarbonate

In the roof of the underground greenhouse it is necessary to provide folding windows for ventilation.

Step 5: setting up a thermos greenhouse

Organization of the internal space of an underground greenhouse includes:

laying out beds;
framing paths;
creation of a fertile layer;
electricity supply.

The number and size of the beds depend on the width of the thermos greenhouse. Layout nuances:

the maximum width of the ridge is 1-1.2 m - if this indicator is exceeded, it is not convenient to care for distant plantings;
if space is limited, 2 beds are laid out along the longitudinal walls, in the center - a path with a width of 50 cm;
if three parallel planting strips fit, then the permissible center width reaches 1.5 m - crops can be cultivated from versatile passages.

Layout of beds in a sunken greenhouse

Due to the high humidity in a recessed thermos greenhouse, uncovered earthen paths quickly become slippery, and after watering, puddles form on them. Improvement of passages:

Install limiting sides - height 5 cm above ground level.
Line the paths with bricks, pieces of blocks or wooden boards.

Raised beds 25-30 cm high are suitable for a pit greenhouse. The framing is done with strips of flat slate, metal or wood. Pegs are installed to support the border. Fertile soil is poured inside the formed box.

Possible soil mixture options:

sand, soil, humus, peat (1:1:3:5);
chopped straw, peat, cow dung (1:2:1).

Finally, electricity is installed, the door and locking hardware are installed, and lighting fixtures are installed.

Video: how to build an underground greenhouse

Practical examples of a thermos greenhouse, implemented with your own hands, show the main aspects of building an all-season greenhouse.

An example of an underground greenhouse for year-round gardening: description and detailed drawing. Shelter - three-layer polyethylene.

Video: Dugout for vegetables without heating

A recessed winter greenhouse with a water heating circuit from a Buleryan stove and a drip irrigation system. The canopy material is two-layer film.

Video: Arranging and heating an underground greenhouse

An underground thermos greenhouse makes it possible to grow various types of crops all year round. Even novice gardeners can build and arrange a winter structure - it is important to correctly determine the depth of the building, select materials and adhere to construction technology.

An underground greenhouse is also called in-depth. It is precisely such structures that are considered the most optimal options for growing crops in a greenhouse. Such dugout greenhouses retain heat well and are suitable for year-round gardening. No matter what the weather is like outside, the ideal microclimate will remain inside. Thus, significant savings are made on installing a powerful heating system, as well as energy resources during the cold season.

Advantages and disadvantages of an underground greenhouse

You can make an in-depth greenhouse with your own hands, but before giving preference to such a design, you should carefully study its pros and cons. Among the advantages, it can be noted that the construction and maintenance can be done by both experienced gardeners and beginners in this business.

In addition to this, there are a number of other advantages that you should definitely pay attention to:

In winter, the temperature inside the greenhouse does not drop below +10°C, and without additional heating. A winter greenhouse installed in the ground will perfectly preserve vegetables and plants in the best possible way.
In summer, during the heat of the day, the plants will be protected from the scorching rays of the sun.
In Russia, trench greenhouses are beginning to gain popularity, especially due to the fact that you don’t have to spend much on purchasing materials.
An in-ground greenhouse is the most ideal option for a business that maintains greenhouses all year round.
In terms of cost, such a structure is the most budget-friendly, both in terms of construction materials and finishing materials.

A thermos-type greenhouse operates due to a strong frame, foundation, and air space that is formed under a film or transparent plastic.

Due to the fact that there is no draft, the air temperature remains stable.

The penetration of sunlight is sufficient and that is why in such structures plants grow quickly and a large harvest can be harvested.

Underground greenhouse for year-round gardening

Regardless of whether a greenhouse is used underground in Siberia or Ukraine, in order to grow crops in it all year round it must be strengthened, insulated and provided with heating. The inside of the walls should be covered with a layer of film, not ordinary film, but heat-insulating film. If the region’s climatic conditions are too harsh, then it is advisable to choose thermal foil film. However, it needs to be installed only before winter and removed in the spring, since in summer it will create an additional greenhouse effect and heat, which will negatively affect the plants and their maturation.

In order for the growing process to be as efficient and correct as possible, you need to install some kind of battery that generates heat.

It’s easy to make, because you just need to use plastic bottles with regular water. It will heat up in a minimum amount of time and will not cool down for a long time. In addition, a barrel of water, heated floors with steam heating, or a cable with electricity installed under the soil layer can be used. In this case, the cable is filled with concrete and a special mesh is laid. Some gardeners prefer to cover the greenhouse with tiles, which makes the greenhouse more beautiful and cozy. It is advisable to heat greenhouses of a combined type, whereby both the soil and the air are heated at the same time. On average, the temperature will vary 25-32o C.

What material are underground greenhouses covered with?

To build a greenhouse, you need to correctly select each material, including the covering.

There are such canvases as:

Glass;
Polyethylene;
Polycarbonate.

Polycarbonate sheets are considered the most ideal material for such structures. Polycarbonate sheets reach 12 meters in length, which makes it possible to create a coating without numerous seams. The ventilation of the structure is minimal, since there are practically no joints, which eliminates the formation of drafts.

Additionally, to eliminate heat loss in a buried greenhouse, you can:

Lay cellular polycarbonate in double layers;
Use thermal blocks to arrange the greenhouse along the upper edge of the soil;
Cover the walls inside the structure with a special thermal film.

As a rule, greenhouses are made either arched or gabled with an acute angle so that in winter the snow rolls off on its own and does not put pressure on the roof, which can cause its destruction and reduce its service life.

To increase the strength of the structure, it is worth using rafters, especially from wood. Before installation, they are impregnated with a special composition to prevent the formation of rotting, insects and drying out, as well as to increase their service life. Between the rafters - supports, there should be a strapping with wooden beams. First, the rafters are installed along the length of the greenhouse, and then along the ends.

When constructing a structure, you can use not only wooden racks, but also metal supports. They require special care, just like rafters. Namely, the metal must be cleaned from corrosion, impregnated with a primer and painted. Basically, such procedures are carried out every year and are natural maintenance.

Installation of polycarbonate sheets is carried out using self-tapping screws, but through pre-drilled holes.

The end parts of the greenhouse are left unscrewed until the supports are completed and strengthened for the winter. Where polycarbonate is joined, you need to use a special sealant, preferably frost-resistant, moisture-resistant and heat-resistant. Finding one is not at all difficult.

The cost of an underground greenhouse

The greenhouse is buried in order to significantly reduce the cost of building materials, as well as to increase the warmth inside the structure. It is worth noting that the price of an in-ground greenhouse is calculated only after drawings and designs have been drawn up, and there are clear parameters and technical specifications.

In general, the price of a structure depends on a number of facts:

What material will be used: improvised, expensive, cheap, high-quality or Chinese.
From the method of fastening.
From the thickness of polycarbonate sheets. It is worth considering the point that if the greenhouse is winter, then you need twice as much polycarbonate.

The cost also depends on the area of the greenhouse that will be constructed, because the larger it is, the naturally more materials will need to be purchased.

Materials and tools for creating a recessed greenhouse

In order to equip a full-fledged greenhouse structure, in particular a recessed one, a standard set of tools and construction and finishing materials is sufficient.

The beginning of building a greenhouse in the ground can vary. It depends on what you will use - improvised means or expensive materials from a hardware store

We will need:

Cement, ready or dry.
Sand and gravel.
Shovel of shovel and bayonet type.
A container, preferably spacious and made of wood, since the weight of the container with the solution will be large and additional kilograms are simply unnecessary.
Master OK.
A mixture of plaster, preferably universal.
Polystyrene foam in sheets.
Thermoblocks of standard sizes.
Polycarbonate sheets. It is much better to purchase long sheets. They bend very well and you can’t help but be afraid that they will burst or crack if you make strong supports.
Film for thermal insulation.
Construction tape.
Galvanized nails.
Self-tapping screws.
Hammer pliers.
Primer.
Dye.
Brushes.

Underground greenhouses (video)

When creating an underground greenhouse with your own hands, you should pay special attention to the design and installation of supports not only for the roof, but also for walls dug into the ground. The depth must be sufficient. And construction must be carried out competently.

One of the best and most rational options for construction is considered to be an underground greenhouse similar to a thermos.

It implements the idea of preserving the heat of the earth itself. It is no secret that at a certain depth the average temperature almost does not change throughout the year, remaining almost constant there in winter and summer. Using this factor allows you to get huge savings in money spent on heating in winter; such a greenhouse means ease of maintenance and a stable microclimate in its internal space.
Read also:

- Advantages and disadvantages.

– what needs to be taken into account.
How to grow curly strawberries - read.

Tools and materials

Before starting construction of a greenhouse, it is necessary to dig a pit at least 2 m deep - only there the soil has the same temperature throughout the year.

cement;

sand;

shovel;

container;

Master OK;

plaster;

Styrofoam;

thermoblocks;

polycarbonate;

thermal insulation film;

protective impregnation for wood;

nails;

hammer;

dye;

self-tapping screws;

scotch.

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Greenhouse technology

Underground greenhouses require the preparation of a pit. The deeper the future greenhouse is located, the warmer the structure will be. The temperature practically does not change at a depth of 2-2.5 m from the surface of the earth.
Such a greenhouse can be any length, but the width of the structure should not exceed 5 meters. If this value is exceeded, light reflection and heating will be significantly weaker than necessary for the comfort of plants.

If possible, underground structures should be oriented east-west, in this case one of the sides of the greenhouse will be maximally illuminated by the sun, the reverse side should be carefully insulated using mineral wool or polystyrene foam.
Underground structures must have aligned edges, since the foundation will have to be poured, which can be replaced with concrete blocks laid around the perimeter, onto these blocks and the frame of such a recessed type greenhouse will be installed.

After the foundation is ready, you can begin to build the upper part of the structure, which will be made up of thermal blocks installed on a concrete base, they are fixed to a metal frame. The roof on the greenhouse must be installed from polycarbonate; it must be installed on a metal frame with sheathing.

The next stage will be insulation of the structure. After which the inside of the walls should be covered with a thermal insulation film, it will be able to retain heat inside. And in those regions characterized by a particularly cold climate, it is preferable to use thick foil thermal film, strengthening it in a couple of layers. However, such wrapping will need to be used only for the winter. It is advisable that the greenhouse be equipped with heat accumulators, which can be water bottles, since they heat up quickly and cool slowly. You can also put a regular barrel of water. Such a greenhouse can also be heated using a heated floor system - an electric cable located under the soil. It will be important to protect it from damage that can be caused by garden tools during work. This can be done using a regular mesh; you can protect the cable using concrete. can be installed under tiles, and plants can be grown in flowerpots and pots.

To heat the greenhouse, a combined heating method is used, which helps maintain an optimal balance between the temperatures of the ground and air.

However, buried greenhouses, as a rule, are heated in a combined way, in which systems are used to heat the soil and air. It is important to remember that plants will feel comfortable in soil that has a temperature of 25˚C, while the air should have a temperature of 25 to 35˚C, and optimal humidity must be maintained.

The next stage will be the construction of the roof. Polycarbonate will be a universal covering for such a greenhouse. Sheets of this material can be up to 12 meters in length without forming unnecessary joints, which will eliminate the penetration of drafts. Heat loss through the roof can be reduced by double coating of polycarbonate. To do this, you need to use two 4 mm polycarbonate sheets, connecting them using a special profile gasket. In order to achieve snow melting on such a surface, you can install a thermal circuit that will operate on a timer.

The rafter parts must be well treated with protective impregnation. Their connection to each other should be done in half a tree, nailing the jumper so that the distance in the lower part is equal to the limit of 3-5 cm.

The support is assembled from the rafters. Jumpers should be removed from the rafters. Afterwards, a ridge beam should be inserted under the rafters, frontal supports should be installed under it, the height of which will be equal to 88 cm. The outer rafters must be nailed to the ridge beam using nails 20 cm long.

Then, between the flashings and the rafters, it is necessary to install jumpers - on the burs and the front support. Afterwards the roof can be painted using white paint. After the paint has dried, you can begin installing the roof that will cover the greenhouse. Strengthening the polycarbonate to the greenhouse should be done with wood screws; holes should first be drilled in it.

After the above work, a corner made of roofing iron should be installed on the roof along the ridge cap, using a gasket made of high-quality insulation. And at the ends of the structure, the polycarbonate should be left unscrewed until the roof is attached to the corner supports.

The inside of the greenhouse is made completely airtight by sealing the seams of the foundation and the masonry of thermoblocks with polyurethane foam.

The joints of polycarbonate sheets with the roof and with each other must be taped using transparent tape. After the roof can be installed on the greenhouse, it can be secured to the walls using nails and staples. This should be done on both sides.

Afterwards, triangular polycarbonate sheets can be sewn on top of the staples.

It is important to make the greenhouse airtight, without drafts. To do this, seams in the foundation and masonry of thermoblocks should be eliminated using plaster; polyurethane foam can also be used. The roof should also be free of cracks. You can complete it by installing electricity, installing heating devices and automatic watering. The lack of lighting will be filled with LED lamps.

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Design features of the greenhouse

The foundation of a recessed greenhouse must have a block or monolithic strip foundation. The depth for its laying should be 400 mm or more. The recommended cement for the foundation is M300 or M400. Despite all the obvious advantages, such greenhouses also have significant disadvantages, among which are the significant labor costs that are noted during the construction of the structure, as well as the impossibility in areas characterized by high groundwater levels and a high risk of seasonal flooding.

Guide and rack profiles for plasterboard can be used in greenhouse construction in areas characterized by mild winters with little snow. This is due to the qualities of the material, including: strength; ease of installation; light weight; low price; wear resistance.

The structure may have a supporting frame with a gable roof, which has transoms for ventilation. If the greenhouse has a compact size (up to 4 m in length), it is possible to limit it to only one transom, which is preferably made not in the roof surface, but on the wall, which is located on the opposite side of the entrance. Such greenhouses often have vertical posts, a ridge beam and rafters, the material for which is a CD profile with a section of 60x27 for plasterboard. This material can be successfully used in sections for diagonal ties. Horizontal components should be made using a UD profile, which must be of the appropriate size. The step between adjacent sections should be 1000 mm.

Cellular polycarbonate must be laid with an overlap, which can be a maximum of 30 mm, due to the susceptibility of this material to thermal expansion. The holes and seams of the connections to strengthen the plastic to the frame must be treated with sealant, which will help prevent water and dust from entering the internal space of the honeycomb material.

The main disadvantage of this design is that the profile does not cope well with the load in the form of a snow cap. Therefore, such a roof should be strengthened with additional support pillars.

In order for such a design to meet all reliability requirements, it is recommended to use a reinforced profile as the material that will form the basis of the frame, the thickness of which should be 0.6 mm or higher. It is excellent for making corner posts and trim contours. To save money, all other frame elements can be made from a thinner profile, the thickness of which can be 0.5 mm.

This fact will seem like something fantastic. However, few people know that such structures were successfully used in pre-revolutionary Russia. A properly equipped underground greenhouse with your own hands means fresh vegetables, fruits and berries on your table all year round.

Pineapples were grown in thermos greenhouses in such quantities that they were enough for the needs of the imperial court and for export to Europe.

Why hide a greenhouse in the ground?

Underground greenhouses have several obvious advantages compared to conventional stationary ones:

Saving and preserving heat. This advantage is determined by the property of the soil at a depth of approximately 1.5-2 meters to maintain a stable above-zero temperature. Its fluctuations depending on the season are only a few degrees.
Durability and reliability. Greenhouses underground can withstand winds, even hurricanes, and are not afraid of snow and hail.
Fast self-sufficiency. Although building a submersible greenhouse is expensive and labor-intensive (digging a pit, pouring a foundation, building a staircase), the harvest obtained almost all year round pays for all costs. Moreover, with proper arrangement, almost any crop, including citrus fruits, can be grown in buried greenhouses without much effort.

Types of submersible greenhouses

Free-standing;
Adjacent - most often to any outbuilding.

Where to choose the optimal location to build a free-standing greenhouse

Perhaps you are lucky and there is a natural slope from north to south on your plot, then it is best to set up a greenhouse there. The price of the structure when using the natural landscape is significantly reduced.

Advice! It is desirable that one of the sides of the greenhouse faces south - it is in this position that solar energy is used to the maximum.

If your plot is flat, then the building is oriented to the cardinal points, like ordinary greenhouses - from east to west. In this case, you need to make sure in advance that groundwater does not accumulate at the site of the future construction, and drainage will be easy.

Stages of construction of a thermos greenhouse

The instructions for building a recessed greenhouse are not complicated, but try to correctly calculate your strength and financial resources - you may need to hire specialized equipment.

At the first stage, after choosing the location of the building, its dimensions are marked. The underground part can reach from 1.2 to 2 m, and the above-ground part up to 0.9 m. The length of the structure can be extended as much as desired, but a width of more than 5 m is impractical - both reflective and thermal insulation properties are reduced.
Digging a pit. If you decide to start your own small business of growing crops or flowers, it is almost impossible to remove such a volume of land with your own hands. Here either assistants or (the fastest option) an excavator will come to the rescue. The edges and walls of the pit are carefully leveled.

Pouring the foundation. The perimeter of the pit is laid out with concrete blocks or the foundation is poured along it.
Walling. After removing the formwork from the finished foundation, you can continue working and begin building walls. For walls, material with good thermal insulation properties is purchased in advance. Thermoblocks are ideal for these purposes. Thermoblock is a hollow wall material made of polystyrene foam.

The blocks are laid out on the foundation and reinforced with metal.

Insulation of walls. The joints of the blocks are carefully coated with a waterproofing solution, and the cavities are filled with polyurethane foam. After this, a thermal insulation film is attached to the inside of the wall.

Advice! Using thermal foil film, you will achieve a double result: you will save heat and, thanks to the reflective effect, you will make the most efficient use of both solar and electrical energy.

Heating. The simplest heat accumulator in a greenhouse can be water bottles. Due to the greenhouse effect, they do not cool down for a long time. This heating method is both cheap and the most labor-intensive - after all, cooled hot water in bottles must be changed periodically.

It is not surprising that the most popular heating method is using electricity. Warm floors, the same ones that many are accustomed to seeing in bathrooms, are also successfully used in recessed greenhouses.

The main thing is to protect the electrical cable from moisture and from shovels. A metal mesh or filling the cable with concrete will help you cope with this mission. You can even tile the greenhouse floor and grow plants in boxes, flowerpots or pots.

Roof construction. The frame on which the roof covering will be laid is usually constructed from wooden blocks impregnated with an antiseptic. The roof can be either single-pitched (easier to assemble) or gable.

For a gable roof, a ridge beam is installed. To do this, supports are placed in the center along the entire length of the greenhouse.

A whole series of rafters connects the walls with the ridge beam. The frame is ready and after assembly it is painted.

Experts recommend using cellular polycarbonate to cover the roof. Sheets up to 12 m long provide a minimum number of joints, and therefore cold bridges. To improve thermal insulation, you can use a double layer of material.

To prevent the polycarbonate from cracking when attached to the rafters, you must first drill holes of the required diameter for the screws. The joints between the sheets are taped with construction tape.

Note! Snow does not melt on polycarbonate, so the slope of a pitched roof must be at least 30*. However, this will not free you from the need to manually remove a layer of snow from the greenhouse from time to time.

An underground greenhouse has been built. It's time to take care of its internal arrangement.

Interior work

We hope that the rich harvest grown in the submersible greenhouse will quickly recoup your construction costs! And the video in this article will tell you some nuances on this topic.

For personal needs or as a business in cold regions, you can. Its main advantage is a constant positive temperature even in winter. The construction of such a structure will not be difficult, and the materials for construction can be available at hand.

Conventional greenhouses are designed in such a way that temperature changes are felt inside. But greenhouses in the ground work differently. Due to the recessed construction, the walls act like a thermos. This system allows you to significantly save on heating and electricity.

Underground greenhouses are great for more than just growing annual crops. You can plant perennial plants. This greenhouse is also great for planting trees and bushes.

There is a myth that due to the small height and recessed walls, the seedlings inside the greenhouse do not receive enough sunlight. But this is not true. The roof allows enough sunlight to penetrate for good plant growth. The roof area itself is small, so there is less heat loss.

2 types of earthen greenhouses:

Underground. The walls are completely underground. Such greenhouses are quite large and perennial crops and trees are grown in them. The depth of the structure depends on the occurrence of groundwater.
Recessed. In this case, only a part of the wall of 40-60 cm goes underground. At the same time, the above-ground part reaches 110 cm. The construction is quite simple, but it will retain much less heat.

The roofs of earthen greenhouses are quite flat. This can be a nuisance in winter. Such a greenhouse should be regularly cleaned of precipitation so that the structure does not collapse. But this has its plus. This building is resistant to strong winds.

Pros and cons of an underground greenhouse for year-round gardening

Before building an underground greenhouse, you should think it over and evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of year-round gardening. To begin with, a gardener should know that both a beginner and an experienced gardener can grow crops. In addition, crops can be grown both in Ukraine with a temperate climate, and in Siberia with serious frosts.

Advantages of an underground greenhouse:

Even without heating in winter, the thermos greenhouse will maintain a positive temperature. It will be no lower than 10 degrees.
In summer, vegetables are reliably protected from ultraviolet radiation.
Availability of the building. A recessed greenhouse does not require large financial investments. This is the most budget option.
A year-round greenhouse is an ideal option for organizing a business all year round in Russia.

To build a reliable structure you will need to build a strong frame. Also, do not forget about the foundation, which will ensure the durability of the building. But the main feature of underground greenhouses is the air space under the film or polycarbonate.

It is best to cover the thermos greenhouse with polycarbonate. It is flexible, durable, UV-resistant, heat-retaining and durable. You can use glass, but then the plants will suffer from an excess of solar energy.

But such greenhouses also have disadvantages. These include difficulties during the construction of a building. It is also necessary to take care of ventilation. And caring for plants in a thermos greenhouse can be difficult.

Features of the construction of an underground greenhouse

The main parameter that must be taken into account during construction is the depth of the building. Here it is necessary to take into account the location of groundwater and its winter freezing. If the waters do not flow deeply, then the construction of a winter greenhouse is very doubtful. The recessed greenhouse should not reach the main groundwater table. But the beds must be placed below the freezing level of underground sources in winter.

The winter greenhouse is buried between groundwater and its freezing level.

It is worth noting that there are 2 types of construction: recessed and underground. The second option involves equipping stairs and special passages to gain access to caring for plants. The recessed greenhouse is serviced by the gardener when the roof is raised.

Greenhouses with opening roofs are in demand. Some types of such greenhouses are described in our material:

Types of greenhouses depending on the terrain:

Horizontal;
Inclined.

When building a greenhouse with your own hands, it is important to take into account the evenness of the terrain. Horizontal greenhouses have walls of the same height, while inclined greenhouses are built on a slope. In this case, it is important to use solar energy as correctly as possible.

Depending on the area occupied, greenhouses are divided into trench and pit type. The first option is as long as possible with a small width. For a pit greenhouse, you will need to dig a recess of the same size in width and length.

Preparatory work for the construction of a recessed greenhouse

Any construction work involves preparatory work. They include choosing a construction site and directly preparing the soil. The winter greenhouse must be built on the right site.

What to consider when choosing a construction site:

Direction of the wind. It is advisable to minimize gusty and cold winds. An underground greenhouse is resistant to strong winds, but if they are constantly present, it is necessary to further strengthen the greenhouse. To do this, you can install a special fence.
Illumination of the area. The place where the greenhouse is built should be well lit so that the plants receive maximum light all day long.
Ease of maintenance. You need to have constant access to the building, so the greenhouse needs to be built close to your place of residence.

When building a fence for additional protection, you do not need to build it too close to the greenhouse. This figure should be at least 8 cm. This is due to the fact that the wind flow when colliding with the fence is directed upward and can cool the greenhouse.

Do-it-yourself gable and lean-to greenhouse in the ground

You can make a gable greenhouse out of brick with your own hands. This is a reliable structure that will withstand the lowest temperatures. You can plant any crops, trees or seedlings in it. The construction itself may seem quite expensive, but you need to remember about durability and savings on heating, which will quickly pay for the greenhouse.

The foundation should be poured no higher than the freezing level of the soil. The depth is 80-90 cm. Options for a solid foundation for greenhouses are described in the article:

It is necessary to divide such a thermos greenhouse into 3 functional zones: work, greenhouse and vestibule. The vestibule serves as the installation site for climate control systems. The roof in this compartment should not be transparent. The vestibule can also serve as a warehouse for storing tools. This room can be insulated with mineral wool.

The sequence of construction of a gable underground greenhouse:

You need to dig a pit and pour the foundation. Filling depth is 80 cm. A strip base is used.
Construction of walls in one brick. The thickness of the wall becomes 25 cm. You need to install windows 60 cm above the level. To ensure good natural lighting, the distance between the windows is 2-3 bricks.
Roof installation. The gable roof does not allow precipitation to remain on the surface. The optimal roof angle is 25 degrees.

The strapping bars must be mounted from below onto the roofing felt. It is secured with rafters. The covering material can be glass or polycarbonate. The second option is considered the best, since the glass is quite heavy and transmits ultraviolet radiation. At the same time, it is an order of magnitude more expensive than polycarbonate sheets.

The walls must be protected with a galvanized canopy. It is mounted with a distance of 8-10 cm from the wall. The construction is quite durable. It can last at least 15 years.

Underground greenhouses (video)

Often, gardeners build underground greenhouses for year-round cultivation of crops. Even trees that require constant high temperatures can be planted in a thermos greenhouse. This way you can not only organize cultivation for personal needs, but also set up a profitable business. At the same time, thanks to the unique design, the costs of maintaining the greenhouse are insignificant.