DIY strip foundation for a house. Strip foundation: varieties, pros and cons, installation stages, photos and videos. What is a strip foundation, the picture is complex but interesting

The requirements for the foundation are very high.

The strength and reliability of the foundation are among the main, but not the only tasks assigned to supporting structures.

• Not buried. It is created on absolutely motionless soils - rocks, strong stable soils. It is extremely rare.
• Shallow. Used for construction on durable soils not subject to frost heaving. The depth is less than the level of winter soil freezing.
• Recessed. The depth of such a tape is slightly below the soil freezing level. Used for the most massive and heavy buildings, suitable for most types of soil and hydrogeological conditions.

The choice of the appropriate type is determined by an analysis of all site conditions - soil composition, number and properties of layers, depth of soil water, etc.

What buildings is it suitable for?

Strip foundations are a reliable support for buildings made of various materials:

• Tree.
• Foam and aerated concrete.
• Brick.
• Concrete plates.

The material and number of floors determine the weight of the building, on which the design parameters of the tape depend - the degree of penetration and thickness. Along with the soil characteristics, the building parameters are the main material for performing engineering calculations during design.

How to calculate depth

strip foundation depends on the type of foundation. E if construction is planned option, then it is necessary to rely on the tabular data of SNiP, displaying the depth of soil freezing in a given region.

When constructing a shallow type of belt, the composition of the soil, the presence and depth of groundwater are taken into account. The optimal depth is usually considered to be 0.75-1 m, but on stable and dry soils the depth can be slightly reduced.

NOTE!

The most common immersion depth for a shallow belt is considered to be 0.7 m.

How is a shallow strip foundation constructed?

Almost completely repeats the recessed version, only with a lower level of immersion.

There is a trench in which a drainage layer of backfill is created and a concrete strip is poured.

The base design has fewer capabilities than a full-fledged tape, but for relatively small low-rise buildings its load-bearing capacity is quite sufficient.

Step-by-step DIY installation instructions

Let's consider the procedure for creating a strip foundation:

• Preparation.
• Site marking.
• Digging a trench.
• Laying and arrangement of the drainage system.
• Creation of sandy.
• Production of formwork.
• Installation of reinforcement cage.
• Pouring concrete.
• Wait for hardening.
• Stripping.
• Waterproofing and insulation tape.
• Further work.

The order of actions does not change under almost any circumstances, since all stages are a consequence of previous operations.

Surface marking

The beginning of work consists of removing the top layer of soil and marking the area. For this, wooden stakes are used, which are installed at the intersection points or corner points of the future trench.

The width is selected based on the calculated parameters of the base, but at least 20 cm greater than that of the tape. This is important, since it will be necessary to install formwork inside the trench, and subsequently ensure a sufficient thickness of the backfill layer for the sinuses.

Preparing the trench

Digging a trench is done with an excavator or manually. The second option is difficult, but if difficulties arise with the delivery or approach of construction equipment to the site, it is quite possible. The excavated soil is stored on the sides of the trench or immediately removed from the site.

It is necessary to ensure the same depth, but there is no need to try too hard and level the bottom down to centimeters. The corners of the trench are aligned manually, regardless of the digging method.

Drainage device

The drainage system allows groundwater to be removed from the sand cushion layer, eliminating the possibility of heaving loads occurring in winter.

There are different types of systems:

• Open. It is created on the daytime surface and is intended to drain rain or melt water. Used on dry soils with deep groundwater.
• Closed. Consists of a pipeline system placed in a trench near the belt. Serves to remove groundwater from a layer of sand backfill (pillow), used on soils with the presence or seasonal changes in the level of soil water.

In practice, the closed type is most often used, since there is a danger of water in most cases. A special-purpose pipeline system is installed that receives and discharges moisture into a drainage well.

For high-quality drainage to work, it is necessary to install a filtration piping and have a slope for the natural movement of water. The filtration layer cuts off small organic particles, preventing the inner surface of the drainage pipes from silting.

This helps extend the life of the system and reduces the risk of failure.

Pillow

The sand cushion is an important and mandatory element of the base structure. Its thickness varies, on average it is 20 cm. Typically, clean river sand is used or alternately a 10 cm layer of sand, 10 cm of fine crushed stone and again a 5 cm leveling sand layer.

After filling each layer, careful compaction is carried out using construction vibrating machines or hand tools. It is recommended to shed the layers with water, this helps to seal the pillow better.

NOTE!

Experts recommend following the following criteria for the quality of compaction of the backfill layer: there should be no traces of shoes left on the surface when walking. This is important, since settlement of the cushion is unacceptable, as it will cause deformation of the tape with unpredictable consequences.

Installation of formwork

To create the formwork, edged boards with a thickness of 25-40 mm are used (depending on the size of the tape). First, shields with a width slightly exceeding the height of the tape are assembled next to the trench. As they are assembled, the shields are lowered into the trench and fixed from the outside with inclined stops and vertical support bars.

Crossbars are installed from the inside, defining the distance between the panels equal to the width of the tape. The formwork must be strong, ready to accept loads when concrete is poured and hardened. There should be no gaps; all gaps larger than 3 mm must be filled with tow or clogged with slats.

This will eliminate wasteful consumption of concrete when leaking into the cracks.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is designed to compensate for tensile axial loads that concrete cannot withstand. It easily takes a lot of pressure, but when bending the tape is unstable and breaks immediately.

For reinforcement, a reinforcing belt is created, the main element of which is horizontal working rods made of metal or fiberglass ribbed reinforcement.

To support the rods in the required position, smooth rods of smaller diameter are used, from which vertical elements (clamps) are made, which, in combination with the working rods, form a spatial lattice.

Its dimensions are such that the horizontal rods are immersed in concrete to a depth of 2-5 cm.

Working rods are selected based on the width of the tape. Their diameter for a shallow base is in the range of 12-14 mm (with a width of 30-40 cm) or 16 mm with a larger width.

Knitting reinforcement

The connection of reinforcement frame elements is made in two ways:

• Electric welding.
• Knitting with soft steel annealed wire.

The first option is used for thick rods and is practically not used when constructing shallow foundations. The assembly of the arm belt most often occurs using the knitting method.

A soft wire is used, which quite reliably holds the frame elements, but has a certain degree of freedom, which allows maintaining the integrity of the frame when loads occur during pouring.

For knitting, a special hook-shaped tool is used. A piece of wire about 25-30 cm long is folded in half. The resulting half-loop wraps around both connecting rods in a diagonal direction, the ends rising upward.

Then grab the fold loop with a hook and, leaning on the second free end, make 3-5 rotational movements, due to which both rods are tightly and firmly connected to each other.

The operation is simple, usually the skill is developed on the first day.

Selecting concrete for pouring

There are quite a few grades of concrete designed for different conditions and loads. Since shallow strip foundations are mainly used in low-rise private construction, the optimal choice would be M200 grade concrete.

It is able to provide the necessary strength and load-bearing capacity of the belt with a relatively low dead weight.

For those who want to approach the issue more carefully, we can recommend using an online calculator to calculate the grade and amount of concrete. The result obtained should be duplicated on another resource to protect yourself from possible errors.

Fill

Filling must be done as quickly as possible, ideally at once. Breaks in pouring for more than a day are unacceptable; in such cases, it is necessary to keep the concrete until it hardens completely and only then continue work. The quality and strength of such a tape is much lower than that of simultaneous casting.

This condition is most easily met by using ready-mixed concrete, which is delivered directly to the site in the mixer. The result is a significant saving of time, and the quality of the concrete will in any case be better than that of a homemade solution.

It is necessary to pour from several points, trying to distribute them as evenly as possible along the length of the tape.. This will allow you to obtain a casting with the same parameters around the entire perimeter, which will ensure high strength of the base.

Features of waterproofing

Exposure to moisture is extremely detrimental to shallow tape. Penetrating into concrete, water sooner or later freezes and tears the material from the inside. This should not be allowed under any circumstances.

There are two types of waterproofing that you can do:

• Horizontal. Protects the lower and upper plane of the tape from moisture penetration from the lower layers of soil and from rain or melt water flowing from the walls. The lower waterproofing is laid before installing the formwork and reinforcing belt, and the upper one is done after the concrete has completely hardened in parallel with the vertical waterproofing. Both layers consist of roofing felt laid in two layers coated with bitumen mastic.
• Vertical. Apply to the outer and inner surface of the tape after stripping and complete drying. Materials of different types of action are used - impregnation, coating or pasting. Impregnations are the most effective, but they appeared relatively recently and are little known to builders.

Insulation issues

Insulation of the tape eliminates the formation of condensation. There are two options - external and internal insulation. In the first case, the insulation is installed from the outside, in the second - from the inside.

Experts recommend performing both types of insulation at the same time, since it is impossible to achieve the expected result separately. Taking into account the specifics of placement, it is necessary to use moisture-proof types of heat insulators - foundation penoplex, liquid polyurethane foam, polyethylene foam, etc.

Mineral wool should not be used in this case, as it can absorb water with complete loss of performance.

Proper care of concrete after pouring

After pouring, it is necessary to regularly water the surface of the tape with water for 10 days.:

• The first 3 days - every 4 hours.
• The next 7 days - 3 times a day.

The tape must be hidden from the scorching rays of the sun under a layer of polyethylene. Watering with water allows you to somewhat equalize the moisture content of the outer and inner layers of the tape, reducing loads and the risk of cracks.

The final hardening of concrete takes a very long time, but you can continue working with the tape after 28 days.

Stripping

Stripping is the procedure for dismantling formwork. It can be done no earlier than 10 days after pouring.

You should not try to speed up the process; the foundation is too important an element of the building to take risks and rely on chance.

Basic mistakes

Most often, sedimentation of the sand cushion occurs due to poor compaction of the backfill layer. In addition, the use of unsuitable materials, especially concrete of the wrong grade, is often encountered.

Some unscrupulous suppliers deliver low-quality material to save money. Experienced experts recommend ordering heavier concrete - instead of M200, take M250. The difference in cost and weight is small, but there is hope that the material will be more durable.

In addition, they often try to reduce the cost of money and labor by abandoning and. These procedures require some time, but, compared to the service life of the base, they are performed very quickly and cannot be neglected.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install a strip foundation:

Conclusion

Creating a strip foundation is not so much a difficult task as it requires a full understanding of the meaning of all stages and high-quality implementation of the necessary actions.

For an untrained person with no experience, it is recommended not to deviate from the technology and strictly comply with the requirements of SNiP.

This will help build a strong and high-quality shallow strip foundation.

In contact with

Many who have decided to build a house on their own are wondering how to build a strip foundation with their own hands. The question is quite complex for beginners in the construction industry and requires detailed explanations. But first you should study the general one.

This type of foundation itself has gained popularity due to its versatility and attractive price. It should be noted that bringing the idea of ​​its construction to life will not be difficult. To do this, you only need desire, a small set of tools, and minimal construction skills.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to clearly determine the depth of installation. Thus, according to this feature, it can be shallow or recessed.

Let's take a closer look at each of these types, their features and areas of application.

Shallow strip foundation for a house

There is a significant level of savings when constructing this type of foundation. This is due to the absence of the need to construct a large pit, as well as lower costs for materials. At the same time, it significantly saves personal time.

They are used in the construction of the following buildings:

• wooden houses;
• frame houses;
• small buildings made of stone;
• monolithic buildings;
• aerated concrete structures no more than 2 floors high.

The depth of laying this type of foundation reaches 40-50 millimeters.

Recessed

This type of strip foundation is used in the construction of heavy houses, which include various concrete floors, basements or a garage in the design.

The depth of its placement depends on the level of soil freezing. More precisely, in order to accurately calculate the required depth, it is necessary to subtract 30 centimeters from the freezing depth.

Do-it-yourself strip foundation construction technology

Initially, it is necessary to carry out detailed planning and fully calculate the required amount of materials that will be needed for construction. After purchasing materials, they must be immediately brought to the construction site. But let’s get closer to the point, and consider the process of constructing a strip foundation with your own hands.

Territory marking

The preparatory stage of installing a strip foundation is marking the territory. First, you need to completely remove the debris, and then begin directly drawing the boundaries of the future foundation, both internal and external. For this purpose, pieces of reinforcement, pegs and rope are well suited (thread, fishing line or wire can serve as an alternative). This is an old manual method, but using the latest technologies, for example, laser levels, will be much more effective.

A large error cannot be allowed; it will have a significant impact in the future, both on the appearance and on the technical characteristics of the finished foundation.

To fully obtain the desired result, you should follow a small number of specific rules:

• Initially, the center lines of the structure itself should be determined.
• The first corner is outlined, this is done using a plumb line.
• Further from the initial point, at an angle of strictly 90 degrees, the rope is pulled in 2 different directions (thanks to this, 2 more angles are outlined).
• If the quantity of angles is more than 4, the rope is also pulled in the required direction, with the condition that the required degree value is deposited relative to the base.
• After completing the markings, the correctness of the angles is checked. This is done by drawing diagonals.
• Thus, the external marking is completed, then the internal marking is carried out, retreating from the previous one by the width of the foundation.

Marking strip foundation

Next, when the main part of the marking of the territory for the strip foundation is behind, it is necessary to carry out full leveling and calculate the lowest point of the surface, which will determine the entire process.

Advice! The depth of construction should be considered individually for each type of building, as well as the characteristics of the soil on which construction will be carried out. It is advisable to check the correctness of the trench with a water level.

The process of creating a pit can be done either manually or using technical means, such as a tractor or escalator.

Cushion and waterproofing: laying technology for strip foundations

After completing the preparation of the trench, it is necessary to provide a sand cushion in combination with gravel. It should be noted that the thickness of each individual layer depends on the area of ​​application, in most cases it is 12-15 centimeters. Laying is carried out in several layers, each of which should be carefully compacted, while pouring water, this causes a significant increase in density.

Installation of foundation cushion and waterproofing

Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the cushion, which in some cases slightly increases the level of durability of the coating. Another option could be a rough layer of concrete, but in this situation you will have to wait a little longer, more precisely, about 7-10 days, until the solution completely sets.

Arrangement of formwork

The next step is to install the formwork for the strip foundation. It is usually constructed from planed boards, the thickness of which is 4-5 centimeters. You can also use slate, plywood or OSB.

It is very important to strictly control the verticality of the structure during all construction. The arrangement of the formwork takes place along the entire depth of the prepared trench, and a protrusion is also provided for the further creation of a base, the height of which is 30-40 centimeters. For a plant, pipes will be laid in the communications building across the trench.

Advice! It is advisable to install a protective polyethylene coating between the formwork and the future layer of concrete, which will allow you to preserve the formwork and use it in the future for other purposes.

The dismantling of the structure is carried out 6-7 days after pouring the concrete. After that, clay or sand is poured into the place where the formwork was installed to create an adjacent layer.

Reinforcement

Next, the fittings are arranged. For this, reinforcing bars with a thickness of 10-12 millimeters are usually used. They are first tied together with wire, or welded (which is not advisable), while the cells created by the interweaving of the reinforcement should have a size of 30-40 centimeters.

Ready-made reinforcement laid in a trench

Both steel and fiberglass reinforcement can be used. When choosing the second option for reinforcement, it is necessary to select its characteristics so that they are equivalent to a steel analogue of the required diameter.

Important! When placing the finished reinforcement mesh in a trench, it is necessary to strictly monitor the indentations from the edge; the optimal value of such an indentation is 5 centimeters.

Engineering Communication

A very important issue is the arrangement of all necessary communications, as well as ensuring adequate ventilation of the foundation. To do this, it is necessary to provide technological holes in the future foundation. They are made using asbestos cement or plastic pipes. Part of this material is tied to the reinforcement, perpendicular to the trench.

Advice! To prevent the pipe from filling with solution, it is advisable to pre-fill it. To do this, you can use sand or other bulk material, which can later be easily removed.

Also an integral part of any building is sewerage and water supply. They are usually provided under the foundation itself, since the laying is carried out directly below the freezing level of the ground. Therefore, it is advisable to deal with them even before reinforcement, immediately after marking, this will significantly save time.

Now the time has come to start pouring the foundation. It is carried out as follows:

• Depending on the volume of work, the trench is divided into certain sections, usually they are 5-7 meters in size.
• After this, gradually, in small layers of 15-20 centimeters, the formwork is filled and subsequently compacted using a wooden tamper or an in-depth vibrator. This is done to avoid the formation of voids and increase the strength of the foundation.
• After compaction, the next layer is poured, as well as the beginning of the layer of the next section, all of this is also compacted. It should be noted that the height from which the pouring is carried out should not exceed one and a half meters. Because concrete delamination may occur, and this will negatively affect the final strength of the strip foundation.

Pouring strip foundation

You can either prepare the mixture yourself or order it ready-made. The proportion of the solution is 1 part cement to 3 parts sand and 5 parts crushed stone.

Important! There is no point in saving on building a foundation. If you are going to order a solution, then this should be done from large specialized companies.

Note that each layer should not be different from each other. At the same time, if work is carried out at low temperatures, it becomes necessary to use a heater or various types of frost-resistant additives.

Arrangement of insulation

After the foundation is poured, it should be insulated. You can do this quite easily yourself; fortunately, modern markets are filled with a wide range of heat-insulating materials. Note that there are several methods of insulation:

Option #1

The first method is to create a layer of expanded clay up to 1 meter thick. Also, it should not be less than 0.5 meters, since in this case the insulation will not be effective. The method is quite inexpensive, but ineffective, since the material loses its properties when interacting with moisture.

Option No. 2

A more effective solution would be insulation using polystyrene sheets. In this case, the thickness of the sheets is selected individually, depending on the climatic conditions of the region, but should not be less than 5-10 centimeters.

Insulation of strip foundations with polystyrene foam

Plastic dowels are used to attach the insulation. Holes are pre-drilled into which the dowel is driven with a hammer.

The best option would be to choose a medium-density material, since it has a more reasonable cost, along with good thermal conductivity.

Advice! It is better to use extruded polystyrene foam, since it absorbs moisture several times less, which leads to greater durability.

Also a good and quite effective solution would be to install permanent formwork. But in this case, additional fixation of the sheets is necessary to avoid deformation by concrete.

Option No. 3

The last option is to treat the foundation with polyurethane foam.

It is carried out using a sprayer, due to which it is evenly distributed over the entire surface, which completely protects it from moisture.

Covering the foundation with polyurethane foam

This method is quite effective, but most involves high costs, since it cannot be done without the help of specialists. It should also be noted that the substance decomposes under the influence of sunlight into trace elements harmful to both the atmosphere and humans.

Important! Insulation is mandatory only after waterproofing has been installed.

Completion of work

At the final stage, it is necessary to cover the concrete with film and leave it until it dries completely and gains strength, for a period of at least 2 weeks. It is advisable to increase this period to 25-30 days.

If the work on constructing a strip foundation with your own hands was carried out in the winter, then it is also necessary to use anti-frost additives, since otherwise the concrete will freeze and stop gaining strength. In hot weather, on the contrary, you should periodically wet the concrete, since some of the water evaporates from it.

Bottom line

To summarize, you can see that installing a strip foundation with your own hands is a rather long and labor-intensive process, but nevertheless there is nothing complicated about it. For a more visual example of the work, we invite you to watch a video that fully reflects the entire process. After which we suggest you get acquainted with others, and perhaps change your decision about choosing a tape one.

The construction of a strip foundation can be attributed to the construction of a monolithic structure used directly for the construction of a residential building or commercial building.

You can complete all the work yourself, which can significantly save the family budget and direct it to subsequent work.

However, before starting, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil on the land plot, possible climatic and atmospheric changes, the type of future structure, as well as familiarize yourself with the regulatory documentation and obtain all the agreements and permits necessary to begin work.

Regulatory documentation

When making a strip foundation for a house, you need to know how they are classified. It is carried out according to the characteristics characteristic of SNiP standards No. 2.02.01-83, 3.02.01, 3-8-76 and SN 536-81. First of all, these are differences in the design itself:

• prefabricated, consisting of reinforced concrete blocks;
• monolithic, poured in a certain area in the formwork;
• laying out the tape using brick or rubble stone.

In addition, before starting construction, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the standards governing the use of land plots in compliance with the requirements described in SanPin 2.1.7.1287-03.

If we talk about private residential and commercial construction, the second method with self-filling is predominantly used.

What will it take?

FBS blocks will allow you to install the foundation very quickly

Before making a strip foundation correctly, it is necessary to determine the technology for its installation. In this case, you will need to select and purchase the required amount of building material. This includes the following:

1. Bricks and concrete for sealing holes and connecting joints.
2. Waterproofing.
3. Thermal insulation (if desired or necessary).

Concreting or sealing holes is necessary because it is almost impossible to lay a wall located below ground level without flaws.

In addition, you will need reinforcement, with its help you need to make a tape encircling perimeter and located in the supporting part of the structure.

Its main function will be to connect and link all the individual elements into one whole.

Reinforcement will allow you to distribute the loads from a house or building over its entire area.

The foundation is poured continuously

Before pouring a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to first prepare bulk material. In this case, sand, crushed stone or gravel are suitable.

You can use a sand-gravel mixture; it can perform several functions at once: it will serve as the main component for the production of concrete and is used to install a cushion under the base.

The latter is necessary to do the following:

• level the pit for subsequent laying of slabs or pouring concrete;
• act as a drainage layer;
• prevent the harmful effects of soil heaving at negative ambient temperatures.

Depth

Place the base of the foundation below the freezing level of the soil

During self-construction, without experience in carrying out such work, many people wonder: how to properly pour a strip foundation?

If everything is more or less clear with the technology for performing the work, then with determining the depth of the trenches and laying the foundation, the issue is much more complicated.

The main determining factor of this value is the requirement that its sole be located at least 30 - 40 cm lower than the freezing level of the soil.

The height of the strip foundation of a house depends on the territorial location of the land plot, which is directly related to the climatic characteristics of each individual region. To make this task easier, see the table below, which is designed to help you independently determine the freezing depth, according to SNiP.

City	M	µM	Loam, sand, m	Fine sand, sandy loam, m	Coarse sand, gravel, m
Arkhangelsk	46.1	6.79	1.56	1.90	2.04
Vologda	38.5	6.20	1.43	1.74	1.86
Ekaterinburg	46.3	6.80	1.57	1.91	2.04
Kazan	38.9	6.24	1.43	1.75	1.87
Kursk	21.3	4.62	1.06	1.29	1.38
Moscow	22.9	4.79	1.10	1.34	1.44

The arrangement of a shallow-type strip foundation is located at a distance of 80–100 cm from the ground level. However, one should take into account the weak load-bearing capacity and almost zero resistance to frost heaving of the soil. Thus, before designing a house structure with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the foundation.

Foundations for one-story buildings are usually calculated by eye

As for installing the tape under a one-story building, here in most cases calculations are performed in average values, so to speak, “by eye.”

In this case, the likelihood of overuse of materials and work is reduced to a minimum.

However, if it is possible to get professional advice, it is not recommended to refuse them. In the absence of an experienced person, the following factors can be taken into account:

We should not forget about the level of groundwater. According to the standards, it should be located no closer than 20 cm from the base.

Work order

You can dig a trench without using special equipment

The step-by-step instructions for installing a strip foundation with your own hands are quite simple.

After all the calculations have been completed, permits have been obtained, and the material has been purchased and delivered to the land plot, you can begin to carry out the work.

The advantage of this construction method is that all the work can be done by yourself without the involvement of special equipment and specialists. If the soil is loose, the trench is dug with shovels, and instead of reinforced concrete slabs, a monolith can be poured, reinforcing it with metal.

Marking

Start marking by driving pegs into the corners of the future building

Before you make a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to mark the area. To do this, you will need an architectural plan of the facility under construction indicating all the walls and partitions.

According to it, the location is marked at the selected location. To facilitate subsequent work, it is advisable to clear the area in advance of construction debris, branches and tree roots.

In addition, you can remove the top layer of fertile soil no more than 20 cm thick. It can be transferred to a garden plot or used for subsequent landscaping of the area around the building.

Marking is done by driving in wooden pegs placed in the corners. A construction thread is stretched between them, depicting the boundaries beyond which the base should not protrude. Having finished, it is recommended to once again carefully check the relationship between the intended site and the plan, the ratio of angles and straight lines.

If you plan to build a rectangular foundation, it would be useful to compare the length of its diagonals. If the values ​​are equal, you can begin excavation work.

When planning to install a brick stove or a real fireplace, it is recommended to prepare a separate base. It should not be rigidly tied to the tape, however, if the structure is weak, over time the structure may tilt or one of its sides may burst.

Excavation

The walls of the trench must be smooth

Digging a trench in a strip foundation is carried out strictly along the intended trajectory. It is recommended to start from the lowest point of the land plot.

It is advisable to make the walls smooth and vertical; if the soil crumbles, it may be necessary to make additional wooden or metal shields.

This will avoid unnecessary work and reduce the consumption of building materials.

Periodically, the depth of the planned foundation cushion is measured and compared along the entire perimeter.

Preparing the trench

The thickness of the pillow should be at least 10 - 20 cm

To distribute the load from the entire mass of the structure and reduce the pressure created by the soil during heaving in the cold season, a sand and gravel cushion is poured at the bottom of the trenches.

Its thickness is made at least 10 - 20 cm, provided that it is well compacted. It is recommended to do it in 3 stages, wetting each row with water and tamping well.

If you do not protect the cushion from washing out, there is a possibility that when the soil is filled with water in the spring, the sand will simply wash away, so roofing felt is laid on the bottom, which will not allow the cement slurry to mix with the sand when the strip foundation is poured.

Roofing material can not only be laid on the bottom, but also raised to the walls of the trench by 15 - 20 cm.

Before pouring the strip foundation, you need to take care of its maximum leveling in the horizontal plane. This will reduce the likelihood that the plinth will be laid out unevenly. Installation is carried out using various materials that are available:

• plywood;
• edged board;
• plastic;
• metal sheets.

Cells of the required height are assembled from individual elements and connected using jumpers into one whole. In some areas, holes are made necessary for ventilation of the future underground. Special pipes of the required length are inserted into them; the diameter is usually at least 10 cm. For more information about installing wooden formwork, see this video:

Concrete pouring is completed 3 - 4 cm short of the edge

Before pouring a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to take into account that this is not done to the top edge of the formwork, but 3–4 cm below it.

This will reduce the likelihood of concrete splashing during vibratory ramming.

To facilitate this procedure, you can use marks made on the inside of the boards around the entire perimeter or with stretched construction thread.

If it is necessary to build a strip foundation using thermal insulation, lumber for formwork can be replaced with extruded polystyrene foam, assembled together like a children's construction set.

Structural reinforcement

It is recommended to knit the reinforcement with wire

Building a house is quite a responsible undertaking, so it needs to be approached with the utmost care. This applies to both the acquisition of material and the order of work. All stages of construction must be completed; ignoring any of them can lead to the most disastrous consequences.

Reinforcing a strip foundation with your own hands is not that difficult, but there are numerous nuances that can significantly affect the overall result. First of all, this is the joining of rods in the corners and junctions of adjacent walls. In these areas, the metal is bent and laid along its entire length.

Secondly, the diameter of the longitudinal elements should not be less than 10, and the distribution ties and jumpers should not be less than 6 mm. For each frame you need to lay an average of 5 - 6 longitudinal rods.

At the joints, the distance between the jumpers becomes not 60 cm, as on straight sections, but 20. The connection of the rods is made with an overlap, overlapping each other by 50 - 60 cm.

Thirdly, the metal should not touch the formwork, since with the subsequent removal of the panels there will be direct interaction with the soil, which will result in the formation of pockets of corrosion and destruction of the reinforcement under the influence of moisture. For more information about reinforcement, watch this video:

The amount of reinforcing material can be determined based on the volume of concrete. The coefficient is 80 kg per 1 m3.

Fill

Have time to pour the foundation in 1 day

If all the previously described steps have been completed, the subsequent installation of the strip foundation will not cause any special problems.

Having determined the amount of the required volume (this is done by multiplying the future height by the length and width), a decision is made: use a purchased concrete mixture or make it yourself.

It should be taken into account that a factory-produced product is much higher quality than one made independently.

In this case, you also need to take into account the amount of cement and sand that will need to be mixed manually.

In the future, the following requirements must be met:

1. Filling is carried out in one day at short intervals of no more than 2 hours.
2. The walls in the strip foundation must be tapped.
3. Each poured layer is compacted and tapped using a crowbar.

When making your own mixture, you need to periodically move the mixer to different places. Filling from one point is not allowed.

Excerpt

The formwork is removed only after the foundation has reached half its strength.

You can prevent repairs to the foundation several years after it is poured by following the technology of drying and curing it. During this period, it is necessary to reduce the likelihood of mechanical or chemical exposure. In addition, concrete is very sensitive to elevated ambient temperatures and sudden changes.

It is not recommended to remove the formwork until the composition has reached more than half its strength; this may take several days. In addition, during the entire drying period it should be under a plastic film or tarpaulin, and periodically moistened with water from a garden watering can (during the hot season).

The time for complete hardening of the structure is from 1 to 1.5 months. This should be taken into account before building permanent walls on it. Failure to comply with the curing period can lead to premature failure.

Thus, the question of how to make a strip foundation with your own hands is completely covered. Based on the information presented above, doing the work yourself is not that difficult. To do this, first of all, you need to correctly make the calculations and perform all actions according to the instructions. Only in this case will the structure last for many years and will not be subject to destruction due to possible errors.

One of the most reliable, durable and simplest foundation options for a permanent building of any type is a strip foundation. It is widely used in low-rise buildings, as it is suitable for any buildings: bathhouses, houses, and even under fences with gates.

The technology for its construction is as simple as possible, so building it with your own hands is not so difficult, and not only a small option, for example, under a fence, but also under a two-story residential building.

The strip foundation has several design options, but all of them can be divided into two large groups:

• buried
• and shallow

Strip foundation options

Shallow version of strip foundation

The simplest and most inexpensive option, the construction of which does not require a large amount of resources, both material and human.

It is used for houses of small mass and area made of light building materials, as well as on hard soil: rocky and close to it.

Basically, such a foundation is built for the following types of buildings:

• Any wooden houses of a small area, especially panel and combined ones. They do not weigh so much that they need a full-fledged massive foundation, and if the soil on the site is quite dense and also has a low level of heaving, or construction is taking place in a warm region, you can get by with a shallow version of a strip foundation.
• Small buildings made of sibit (aerated concrete) or foam concrete blocks. The reasons are basically the same as with wooden houses: buildings of one or two floors made of such materials have a low mass, so they do not require a deep and powerful foundation.
• Brick and stone buildings of a small area - for one car, a family bathhouse, some outbuildings and other types of buildings. The brick itself is a heavy material, but if the building is small and the soil is dense enough, then in the same way there will not be a serious load on the foundation and you can build the simplest thing.

Typically, a shallow foundation does not exceed 80 cm in height, and another 15-20 may be spent on creating a cushion and a base on which the foundation rests in the trench.

The only drawback of such a foundation is the lack of a basement.

Since in the recessed version the foundation simultaneously plays the role of the walls of the basement, cellar or basement, this will not be possible in the shallow version.

For highly heaving or moving soils with a high level of groundwater, you can use a combined option - pile-tape. In this case, the tape also remains shallow and is further built up with piles or “legs” to harder and more stable layers of soil.

Recessed version of strip foundation

A full-fledged version of a strip foundation is one buried below the soil freezing level, reaching down to hard soil. It is used as a foundation for large, massive buildings that need stable and heavy support so that the building does not begin to sag and warp.

Therefore, the foundation itself must be deep, wide and heavy, standing tightly in the soil and not moving when it freezes, when groundwater rises and in any other climatic and geological changes.

Typically, the depth of such a foundation falls 30-50 cm below the freezing horizon, which means that the foundation and the building itself stand on solid ground, and the upper soft layer acts as a cushion.

Such a foundation is always built if the soil on the site freezes deeply, is moist and soft. A deep foundation requires a large amount of materials for its construction, therefore, in order to save money, it is possible to build options in which the foundation strip array expands towards the bottom or is a stepped structure. T

These options are more difficult to construct and design, but allow you to spend significantly less building materials, since the strip foundation is the most expensive foundation of all existing ones in terms of the amount of concrete, reinforcement and related consumables such as sand and steel wire for tying the reinforcing belt.

The recessed strip foundation, according to the strip design, can be monolithic or prefabricated.

Prefabricated strip foundation

A prefabricated strip foundation is a strip of ready-made reinforced concrete blocks connected into a single mass using concrete and reinforcement. In this case, the formwork is filled with ready-made blocks produced in a factory, and the result is a solid mass.

The advantages of this design include short construction times and the possibility of construction in any season and in any weather.

But there are also a number of disadvantages: ready-made blocks are more expensive, and moisture penetrates into their joints. Therefore, when building this option, it is necessary to create additional insulation and a drainage system that will remove excess moisture.

Monolithic foundation strip

The monolithic foundation strip is a reinforced trench filled with concrete. The result is a single concrete mass, that is, a monolith. This option is the most reliable and versatile, so its design can be anything.

The advantages of a monolithic foundation: no need to involve equipment, the ability to carry out all the work on your own, as well as a wide selection of designs and tape options.

There is only one drawback - the high price and high consumption of materials, especially fittings.

Stages of work on the construction of a strip foundation

Step 1 - Material for the construction of a strip foundation

The construction of a strip foundation is carried out using grade 200 cement. This is a rather labor-intensive process. If it is not poured at the same time, the foundation structure will not be strong. It is better to use coarse sand, cement and crushed stone to build such a foundation. When starting the solution, strictly observe the proportions. 2:1:2:5

In addition, for the construction of the foundation you also need:

• River sand. They fill the pillow under the foundation.
• Several pieces of shovels, bayonet and shovel.
• Levels, small and large.
• A large amount of ribbed reinforcement 10-12 mm for creating belts and smooth reinforcement, 6-8 mm in diameter, for bandaging. You will also need steel wire to connect the overlaps of the reinforcement.
• Boards for formwork. You can use slab; it is the cheapest and most accessible of all lumber of this type.
• Nails, hammers, a wood saw, a grinder and preferably a vibrator for compacting concrete.
• Concrete mixer for half a cube or a cube.
• Materials for making concrete.

Step 2 - Preparing to build the foundation

The first step in any construction is preparatory work, and it begins with design. Therefore, you first need to find out the freezing depth by digging a test hole and looking at a section of soil layers, or look at the average value for the region in the corresponding SNiP.

Based on these data, the depth of the tape is planned. It is also important to take into account that the foundation should be slightly wider than the wall, and if the soil is soft, an empty space should be left along the outer walls, which in the future will be filled with sand to create a cushion between the tape and the moving soil.

A ditch is dug, clearly following the markings for the foundation.

Step 6 - Installation of formwork

Installed from wooden boards, in accordance with the size of the foundation.

For formwork, use any boards that have at least one planed side. You can use old ones, as long as they are strong enough and as long as possible.

The inside of the formwork should be a flat surface without strong differences and cracks into which the solution can begin to pour.

In this case, be sure to do:

• Installation of corner supports using wooden beams;
• Using edged boards, a formwork structure is assembled, which is secured with metal corners and self-tapping screws. In this case, the heads of the screws remain inside the formwork, and the beams and corners remain outside;
• The outer side of the formwork is secured with supports. This will prevent deformation of the structure under the weight of the poured solution;
• The height of the formwork cannot be less than 30 centimeters from the ground level.
• A level is drawn inside the formwork for the concrete pouring level.

According to all the rules, formwork for a buried foundation is built from the bottom of the trench, but in some cases it is allowed to be erected only on the surface of the soil.

In these cases, the walls of the trench must also be smooth and dense enough so as not to deform under the mass of liquid concrete when it begins to fill.

If there are no boards, any durable panel material, even slate, will do.

The foundation should rise at least 30 cm above the ground surface, so it is better to make the formwork 50 cm high just in case. You also need to remember to lay all the necessary pipes if communications enter the house through the floor. For this purpose, large-diameter asbestos-cement pipes are used, into which water and sewer lines will then be laid.

Step 7 - Reinforcement for strip foundation diameter

After completion of the formwork, a reinforcing belt is knitted along the entire length and height of the trench. For longitudinal belts, reinforcement of maximum length is required, preferably six meters, if the length of the side of the foundation is not less, 10-12 mm thick with a ribbed surface.

Vertical rods and transverse bows can be made from smooth, 6-8 mm in diameter. The longitudinal elements must overlap each other with ends of at least 30-40 cm, and each row is knitted from two rods together.

Such requirements are due to the fact that it is this part of the foundation that bears the main load and if you skimp on it, it will not be as reliable as it should be. All ends are tied with steel wire; it is not advisable to use welding, since it does not provide the necessary strength inside the concrete block.

The step with which the vertical rods are installed and the inner and outer horizontal ones are tied together is determined by design calculations, but it is not advisable to make it less than 50 cm.

Metal rods of at least 8-12 mm in diameter are cut into pieces up to two meters, but not less than 45 centimeters, which are laid out in no more than 40 centimeters.

At the same time, the steel rods are fastened to each other using a lashing method using wire. Some people use welding for this. But you shouldn't do that.

Step 8 - Filling the formwork with concrete

It is advisable to complete the work of pouring the formwork with concrete in one day, since at the junction of the set and fresh parts the strength of the foundation will be lower, and it is here that large through cracks may appear.

For concrete, it is better to take crushed stone of medium or small formation; this option is stronger than large stones.

If the crushed stone is very small, you need to reduce the amount of sand, since it is initially present in the crushed stone. Concrete is poured in layers of 20-30 cm and after pouring each layer it must be compacted. It is best to do this with a construction vibrator to eliminate small air cavities.

If there is no vibrator, you can make a tamper from boards, the main thing is that the concrete is compacted. In cases where ready-made concrete is purchased and poured from an industrial mixer, it must be turned when pouring with crowbar or thick reinforcement so that cavities do not form in it. The walls of the formwork must be tapped with a wooden hammer for better shrinkage.

The upper part is leveled in the same way as when pouring the screed.

Upon completion of concrete work, the foundation must be covered with roofing material or plastic film to protect it from precipitation and left to set. In normal weather with little rain, the foundation for the house sets in about a month. In the case of a fence, a couple of weeks or less is usually enough, depending on its volume.

Before choosing concrete for construction, you need to pay attention to the following important factors:

• What will be the mass of the building?
• What type of reinforcement will be
• What kind of soil

Very often, a concrete pad is made under the strip foundation, which has a thickness of 10 cm. In this case, concrete M100 and higher is suitable.

If the future structure will have more weight, for example, a prefabricated panel house, then in this case M200 concrete will be sufficient.

For small construction, M250 concrete is suitable if the groundwater does not lie deep.

If the future house is large - massive, then in this case it is worth using M350 concrete. It is this type of concrete that is classified as a particularly durable class, since it contains granite.

The most reliable is the M450, which is considered durable.

Remember! If construction takes place in a region with a harsh climate, then give preference to a higher grade of concrete.

To prepare concrete you will need the following materials:

• Concrete mixer, since it is very difficult to knead by hand, especially if a lot of concrete may be needed
• Shovel
• Capacity
• Cement
• Sand
• Crushed stone
• And water

Any concrete consists of the following components:

• Cement
• Fillers - this can be crushed stone, sand, gravel, and other bulk materials

As a result of mixing these components, concrete is obtained. The quality will depend on the content of various fillers in the cement.

Concrete markings:

• M - concrete grade - this parameter shows how the frozen foundation will bear loads after 30 days
• B – concrete class – this parameter carries information about the degree of compression
• F - frost resistance - this indicator shows how much freezing and defrosting concrete can withstand
• W – water resistance – this parameter characterizes the coefficient of permeability of concrete to water. Typically the values ​​range from 2 to 12.
• P - mobility - this parameter characterizes the liquid of a homogeneous concrete mixture and the flow coefficient.

For example:

• Concrete M100 B7.5 - it is of very low quality and is used only in preparatory work during construction
• Concrete M150 B12.5 - this type of concrete is not of very good quality. It is mainly used in the construction of concrete paths
• Concrete M200 B15 - this type of concrete is used in construction with light loads. It could be stairs
• Concrete M300 B22.5 - this brand of concrete is considered the most popular in Russia. It is used for pouring foundations and in building quality homes.
• Concrete M350 B25 - this brand of concrete is considered very good. It is used in the construction of buildings and structures that require extremely high strength.

Pouring formwork with cement mortar

• To do this you need to: prepare a concrete solution, bring it to a creamy consistency with continuous stirring, then add gravel to it and mix everything again;
• Filling the formwork with mortar is carried out by systematically compacting and flowing over its area with a metal rod. This removes air from the foundation. It is better to use a construction mixer for this;
• The solution is poured to the designated level in the formwork;
• The top layer of concrete mortar is leveled with a special tool, that is, a rule. It’s better not to do this with a trowel;
• The top layer of poured concrete must be covered with dry cement. It is better to do this using a sieve. This will speed up the drying process of the top ball of concrete mortar.
• The finished foundation is in formwork, it needs to be covered until completely dry. Usually 3-4 weeks are enough for this.
• If it is very hot, the foundation needs to be watered systematically. This will prevent the top ball of the foundation from drying out.

And when the foundation is ready, the formwork has been removed, you can begin building the walls. Just before doing this, you need to complete. This will extend the life of the foundation, protect the walls from moisture and keep the house warm.

Is it possible to fill a strip foundation in parts?

Answer: yes. You can fill it in parts. This method is perfect for strip foundations, where the largest amount of pouring solution is spent. At the same time, the quality of work will not decrease, since modern technologies and skilled craftsmen allow such work to be carried out perfectly.

What should you consider in this case?

One of the main parameters is time, since incorrectly adjusted work intervals can reduce the quality of the structure as a whole. Therefore, it is worth knowing that before the foundation becomes strong and reliable, concrete goes through stages. It is these two processes that have certain time intervals that need to be known and taken into account in their work.

Minimum setting time– 3 hours if the outside temperature is 15 degrees. The maximum time is a day, if the temperature is lower than the prescribed one. This is considered the most important process, since it involves the binding of all components that enter the solution.

Therefore, remember! If it is necessary to fill in parts with an interval of 8 hours, then the layers themselves must be thick. Otherwise, the desired effect will not work.

Hardening process takes up to a month and only after this period has expired will the foundation be able to withstand the necessary loads.

If you need to fill the foundation in parts, then the next layer can be laid only after three days. If these time intervals are not observed, the foundation may eventually crack.

• Pouring subsequent layers can be done after 8 - 10 hours in cold winter time and at least 5 hours in autumn and summer.
• Before proceeding to the next layer, it is necessary to carry out work on the previous one - to clean it from dust.

One of the traditional types of foundations that have stood the test of time is the monolithic, strip version.DIY strip foundationIt’s not difficult to build if you know the whole algorithm of actions. By design, it is a reinforced concrete strip passing under the load-bearing walls of the future building.

Construction stages

A monolithic strip foundation can be shallow, 50 to 70 cm deep (for foam concrete, wooden, light frame houses) and deep - from 70 to 150 cm (for significant design loads from walls). The buried version is more stable, as it is located below the soil freezing level.

Stage 1: design

Setting out to doDIY foundationcorrectly, you cannot rely on chance and ignore the phase of engineering and geological surveys. It is carried out by specialists from the design organization, and at this stage they determine:

type and main characteristics of the soil;

its load-bearing capacity;

freezing depth;

occurrence of groundwater.

This analysis will allow us to develop a detailed project with calculations of the effect of all loads from the future structure, selection of material corresponding to the obtained values ​​and determination of the required safety factor. The project will detail the conditions for the safest location of the future structure for the surrounding landscape.

If work is planned without developing a project, in any case you need to know the composition of the soil (sand, sandy loam, loam or clay), the presence of groundwater and the approximate depth of freezing of the soil layer. It should be borne in mind that a buried foundation receives stability from frost heaving, which is characterized by the fact that water, expanding when freezing, squeezes it out with force. This phenomenon is most pronounced on clayey and heavy loamy soils.

Stage 2: preparation

During the preparation stage, the entire construction site is cleared. It will be necessary to level the terrain if there are pronounced differences in elevation.

The necessary building material is being prepared. It is necessary to provide for the arrangement of a canopy as a temporary warehouse.

Markings are carried out in strict accordance with the drawings, for which they use rope or wire (the latter is preferable, since it stretches less) and stakes. For pegs, it is advisable to take reinforcement. First, the central axes are marked along the perimeter of the future structure. A peg is driven into the first point of the corner of the house and a wire is pulled from it strictly at right angles in two perpendicular directions. Having noted the desired length, they drive in two fixing pegs, obtaining two more vertices of the rectangle, from which two more wires are also pulled at a right angle, which is adjusted using a square. At their intersection, the fourth vertex is formed. If all markings are observed, the angle at the fourth vertex automatically turns out to be straight (a control measurement must be taken).

You need to check the correctness of the geometric figure by measuring two diagonals, which should be equal. Errors are not allowed. If they are identified, additional clarification of the entire markup is made.

Then the axes of the internal load-bearing walls are marked, observing all the requirements for perpendicularity at intersection.

When all the axial lines are accurately marked on the surface, mark the contour of the future trench, setting aside half of its calculated width on both sides of the axis, equal to the width of the foundation taking into account the laying of the formwork.

The estimated width of the foundation is equal to the width of the walls. At the same time, subsequent external finishing is added, if this is included in the project, with insulation, which also rests on the foundation.

Stage 3: markings

This type of work is necessary in areas with slopes. Cast-offs in the form of dug-in posts 1.0–1.3 m high with boards nailed to the outside are installed at a distance of about two meters from the building markings. The top even cut of the boards should be in the same horizontal plane, which will serve as a guide when marking the bottomtrenches. Such control will ensure that the base of the foundation will be in the same plane without distortions.

Stage 4: digging a trench

can be erected faster if this labor-intensive process for manual digging is carried out using an excavator. After this, the bottom and slopes must be leveled manually. The depth of the trench varies depending on the soil: sandy - 1 m, sandy loam and light loamy - 1.25 m, heavy loamy and clayey - 1.5 m.

The walls of the moat are made vertical, controlling these areas using a plumb line. To provide shock absorption during seasonal swelling of the soil, a sand and gravel cushion (approximately 10 cm of sand, which is moistened and compacted, and 10 cm of gravel or crushed stone) of equal thickness throughout its entire length is placed on the leveled bottom. It is unacceptable to mask the unevenness of the trench bottom with a pillow.

Stage 5: installation of formwork

Formwork diagram

For formwork, a collapsible panel metal structure is used or edged boards of cm of minimum thickness, having a standardized width and a smooth edge, are used. The assembly of boards from such boards, which are planed for the inner surface on one side, is carried out on the ground. After this, supports are installed along the edges of the trench, to which the knocked down shields are attached.

The walls of the formwork are made higher than the level of the future foundation so that the mixture does not pour out over the top. The entire installation process is constantly controlled with a plumb line to achieve a strict vertical wall. Openings are immediately made for future sewer and utility networks. The wooden structure is pressed against the walls of the trench with spacers and generously moistened with water.

To mark the filling level, a cord is pulled inside, hoping that it rises at least 30 cm above the ground surface, subsequently forming the base of the building.

Stage 6: reinforcement

The strength and reliability of the foundation depends on the reinforcement, which determines the necessary fixation of concrete. The smallest cross-sectional area of ​​the reinforcement is 8 mm. Installation of the reinforcement cage in accordance with the project is carried out in parallel with the installation of formwork.

The rods are installed in two rows vertically in increments of 10 to 25 cm. Reinforcement is attached to them horizontally using wire. Reinforcing mesh with almost square cells is formed, rigidly fastened together by transverse horizontal rods. A frame is made to the height of the foundation, a gap between the formwork wall and the central axis of the rod is maintained from 40 to 70 mm, so that it is completely inside the structure.

You can make a frame by welding, performing separate sections outside the trench according to the design parameters. They are then installed in place and welded into a single structure.

Stage 7: installation of basement ventilation

To ensure natural ventilation of the base and subsequently the house, an asbestos-cement or plastic pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm is attached to the fittings with wire, flush with the formwork.

Stage 8: foundation drainage

To avoid destructionDIY foundationfrom closely lying groundwater, it is advisable to arrange a closed drainage channel with a slope to discharge water at a distance of one and a half to three meters around the entire perimeter. Its depth is half a meter greater than that of the foundation, and a drainage pipe with perforation is laid along the bottom.

Stage 9: pouring concrete

Before pouring, wax paper is laid along the walls of the formwork, which will greatly facilitate its subsequent dismantling.

Concrete (the grade selected is no less than M200) is poured into the frame in layers. In this case, each layer is pierced to release air and compacted until a “milk” appears on the surface to eliminate voids and obtain the design strength of the foundation. To do this, use wooden tampers while simultaneously tapping the formwork walls or, if possible, use a more efficient concrete vibrator.

At this stage, it is necessary to control the quality of concrete, which must have a uniform consistency and not be excessively fluid. It is necessary to use additional devices in the form of a trench when pouring from concrete mixers with a height of more than one and a half meters, since there is a danger of stratification of the mixture when it is poured from such a distance.

When preparing M-200 concrete yourself, you will need cement (grade M-400), sand and crushed stone (fine grain) in a ratio of 1:3:5. The amount of water is determined from the ratio: 0.68 = cement/water, from which water = cement/0.68.

After compaction, the topmost layer is additionally leveled with a construction trowel. After three hours, cover the entire structure with burlap. For uniform drying in hot weather, the surface is moistened. If it rains, it is covered with plastic wrap. After a week, in order to achieve maximum shrinkage, you can lay several rows of regular brick on the top cut.

Stage 10: waterproofing

Waterproofing the foundation and plinth

Two to three weeks after the completion of concrete pouring, after removing the formwork, waterproofing work begins. To do this, the outer walls are coated with bitumen mastic and roofing felt is glued. After a few days, quality control is carried out to ensure the adhesion of the material over the entire surface without peeling. Identified deficiencies are eliminated.

Stage 11: backfilling

Layers of finished strip foundation

DIY strip foundationalmost ready, as this is the last stage of construction. It consists of manually filling the foundation cavities with medium sand, which is moistened and compacted in layers. An option is used to protect the waterproofing from damage when applied with a layer of geotextile.