At what distance to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse? Consolidation of vegetable planting. Rational use of garden beds Planting vegetables distance between rows

During the growing season, plants reach a certain height and width. If there is not enough space, the plant does not receive enough sunlight. This is clearly visible in the forest, in the thicket, where tall trees do not allow light to pass through, and nothing grows at the base. In the garden, this is fraught with the spread of diseases, mold, rotting of the root collar and death of the plant. Otherwise, long distances have a detrimental effect on their development. Plants grow and do not produce a bountiful harvest. Therefore, on a personal plot it is very important to maintain distance when planting plants or seedlings. What distance should be when planting all plants.

Important!

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Distance between plants when sowing seeds

Radishes, parsley - 5 cm

Turnip - 10 cm

Summer radish - 6 - 8 cm, winter - up to 20 cm

Head lettuce - 20 - 25 cm, leaf lettuce - 5 cm

- 5 - 8 cm between cloves, 25-30 in rows

Celery – 5 – 15 cm (depending on the variety)

Black onion for greens - 4 cm, for onion - 8 cm

Turnip sets - 8 - 10 cm in a row, 20 cm between rows

- 8 - 10 cm

Daikon - 25 - 40 cm

Dill - 1 cm, between rows - 10-15 cm

- small 25 - 30 cm, large 30 - 35 cm, between hogs 60 - 70 cm

Peas - 7 - 8 cm, 12 -15 cm between rows

Beans - 60x60 cm or every 20 cm in rows

Beans - 3-5 cm in a row, 40 cm between rows

Distance between plants when planting seedlings

White cabbage - 50x30 cm or 60x35 cm early ripening, 60x50 cm mid-ripening, 60x70 cm or 70x80 cm late varieties

Cauliflower - 50x50 cm, or 25 - 30 cm distance when planted in a row and 60 - 70 cm distance between rows

Broccoli - 20 - 30 cm in a row, distance between rows 60 - 70 cm

Kohlrabi - 60x20-25 cm

- 20 - 25 cm between plants in a row, 50 cm between rows

- 60x60 cm or 70x70 cm

Zucchini, crookneck – 105x105 cm

Squash - 50x50 cm or 60x35 cm

- 50x50 cm, 70x70 cm, 90x90 cm (depending on the bushiness of the variety)

— 30x30 cm or 60x35 cm

Hot pepper - 10 - 15 cm between plants in a row

Basil – 25 cm

- 30 - 35 cm between plants and 60 - 70 cm between rows

Do not plant sweet and hot peppers together. When cross-pollinated, all the peppers will be hot.

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GROWING FLOWERS

Soil preparation. Good flower beds can only be had with careful soil preparation.

For flower plants, and especially for perennials, it is better to prepare the soil in advance, about 1.5-2 weeks before planting.

For annuals, biennials and low-growing perennials, cultivate the soil to a depth of 25 cm, and for medium-sized and tall perennials - to a depth of 30-40 cm.

For planting large plants, such as peonies, rhubarb, dahlias and others, prepare holes in size depending on the size of the root system.

In areas clogged with construction debris, the topsoil layer should be removed and replaced with good plant soil. In this case, plants are planted after the soil has been compacted.

Planting material. Annuals and biennials are planted as seedlings in flower beds. The seedlings should be completely healthy, with a lumpy root system and not elongated. For planting, it is necessary to take equally developed plants, for which the planting material is pre-sorted.

In rural areas, in garden plots, in intra-block landscaping and in non-critical areas in city parks, many annuals can be sown directly into the ground.

Annuals such as eschscholzia, poppy, night violet (mathiola), purslane do not tolerate transplantation, so they must be sown directly into the ground. Seeds are sown on well-prepared and fertilized soil. Before sowing, the soil surface is leveled and lightly compacted with a tamper. Sow the seeds in shallow furrows to a depth equal to 2-3 times their thickness. Humus or compost is placed on top of the seeds. Small seeds - fragrant tobacco, petunia, poppy and others - are only lightly sprinkled with earth and pressed to the soil with a tamper.

After sowing, watering from a watering can with a very fine mesh is required.

When watering, you should not over-moisten the soil, as the seedlings may rot and also allow it to dry out. Dense shoots need to be thinned out. The first thinning is carried out when true leaves appear, leaving 2-3 plants in each nest. The second thinning is done when the plants reach a height of 8-10 cm, leaving between them the distances taken when planting seedlings in permanent places.

To create long-term beautiful flower beds, it is necessary that the plants intended for planting are healthy, have a well-developed root system, and intact renewal buds. Such planting material is usually grown in special farms, but it can be obtained by dividing overgrown bushes in flower beds. By dividing the bushes from perennials, irises, yarrow, peonies, pinnate carnation, helenium, phlox, solidago, pyrethrum, scabiosa, daylilies, gaillardia asters, funkia, rudbeckia, stachys, manarda, small petals, phalaris, cornflowers, delphinium, coreopsis, lychnis, centranthus angustifolia, tomentosa, chamomile.

Carpet perennial plants: sedums, soddy phlox - are planted in flower beds with rooted cuttings. You can also cut all types of sedum into the ground to a permanent place at the end of April.

Daffodils, lilies, tuberoses, gladioli, tulips are planted in the ground with separated bulbs and corms.

The best time for dividing and planting perennials that bloom in spring and in the first half of summer is early autumn (September). In this case, they have time to take root well before frost and bloom the next year. It is possible to divide these perennials in early spring, but then many plants do not bloom in the year of division.

Fall-blooming perennials are divided and transplanted into the ground early in the spring, and most bloom the same year.

The plants are dug up with a clod of earth, and care must be taken to ensure that the roots are not damaged. The earthen lump along with the roots is cut into several parts with a sharp knife so that each part has a neck and buds, from which new shoots subsequently develop. The roots are slightly shortened, all dented, broken and soaked are removed. Slow-growing perennials are divided into larger parts (at least three buds), fast-growing ones - into small ones. Before digging, the above-ground part of the plants is cut as short as possible.

It is recommended to dig up bulbous plants by hand using a garden fork with blunt ends, since an ordinary shovel often damages the bulbs. It is better to harvest bulbous plants when the dying stems and leaves have not yet separated from the plants.

Before harvesting for temporary pre-planting storage, dug up daffodil and tulip bulbs are dried well for 2-3 days in a place protected from the sun, stirring occasionally. You should not spread the bulbs in a thick layer; they are still wet at this time and can easily rot.

V. A. Alferov recommends, after digging, keeping the tulip bulbs at a temperature of 40° for 24 hours, then for several days at 20°. Before planting, bulbs should be stored at a temperature of 9°. As a result of the short-term effect of high temperature on the bulbs, tulips bloom earlier and more quickly.

Daffodil bulbs are also stored at a temperature of 9°.

For dahlias, before digging, the stem is cut 15 cm from the ground. Digging must be done carefully; large tubers are dug up from both sides, slightly retreating from the stem. The dug up tubers are taken by the base, the soil is shaken off, then they are dried a little and brought into a place protected from frost, where they finally dry out. Before storing the tubers, shake off the remaining soil and cut off the dried small roots. Dahlia tubers should be stored in the basement at a temperature of 3-4° and air humidity within 50-60%, laying them in one row in sand or sawdust.

If necessary, stored tubers are lightly sprayed with water.

After drying, root and tuberous begonias are stored in the same conditions as dahlias.

Dahlia tubers are well preserved, covered with a thin film of wax and paraffin. They do this: the tubers are thoroughly washed from the soil, sorted, all thin roots are cut off, and dried well. The dried tubers are dipped for one moment into a solution of wax and paraffin (1 part of wax and 5 parts of paraffin) at a temperature of 50-60° so that they are covered on all sides with a thin film. In this state they can be stored in any cool place, but at a temperature not lower than 0°. Before planting, the tips of the tubers are freed from the film. Do not remove the film from the neck, as the sprouts easily grow through it.

Gladioli corms are placed in winter storage after they are completely dry and cleaned. When cleaning, remove any remaining stems.

Gladioli should be stored in a dry, well-ventilated room with a temperature of 5-10°. A small number of corms are placed in gauze or plastic bags with several holes for air exchange.

When storing corms in large quantities, they are placed in two layers in low boxes, which are placed one on top of the other. Once every two weeks, the corms need to be lightly stirred.

Before dividing, peony bushes are washed from the soil and cut into pieces with a sharp garden knife or a hacksaw with fine teeth. This must be done carefully so as not to break off the succulent and very fragile roots.

Depending on the duration of plant cultivation in a permanent place, perennials are divided at different times, namely: tulips - after 1-2 years; large-flowered daisies - after 4 years; irises, phlox, aconite, rudbeckia, solidago, coreopsis grandiflora, garden lupine - after 3-4 years; daffodils - after 3-5 years; daylilies, delphinium, asters, Korean chrysanthemum, white lily - after 4-5 years; gaillardia grandiflora, dianthus pinnata, glacium, funkia - after 5 years; thin-leaved peony - after 5-7 years; Iberis evergreen - after 5-10 years, Chinese peony - after 8-10 years.

Perennials should not be left in one place for longer than the specified period, as this leads to a decrease in flowering, shredding of leaves and flowers due to a lack of nutrients in the soil.

Areas cleared of perennials are fertilized and used for other flowering plants.

Dates, norms and planting techniques. Annuals are planted after late spring frosts have passed, usually after May 10. First of all, seedlings of carnations, marigolds, snapdragons, asters, marigolds are planted, and then more heat-loving ones - zinnias, balsams, verbenas, nasturtiums and dahlia tubers.

Flowers and carpet plants are planted in flower beds, ridges, and parterres according to a drawing or layout drawing previously made on paper. In order to be able to apply a distinct outline of a design to a flowerbed or edging, their surface must be carefully cut and free from lumps of earth and unevenness. The outline of the pattern is applied to the soil surface on the day of planting or the day before using a sharpened peg.

Plants are planted in moist soil in the morning or evening at the same depth as in boxes or pots. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the pattern and the accepted distances between plants (Table 1).

Annuals, biennials and carpet plants are planted under a stake or narrow garden scoop. It is necessary to ensure that the root system of the plants does not bend upward and that the soil fits tightly to the roots.

After planting, the plants are watered abundantly from a watering can with a fine sieve or a hose with a jet spray tip. Watering with a strong stream is not allowed, so as not to wash or nail the plants to the ground.

Table 1. Placement of plants in plantings

Plants are planted in flower beds from the center to the periphery (towards the edges). If several different types of annuals are planted, the taller plants are planted in the center. On ridges, tall plants are also planted in the background or in the center, and low ones along the edges. The same applies to perennials.

In the floral design of gardens, parks and public gardens there are almost no such valuable plants as dahlias. However, due to the variety of varieties, colors and shapes of flowers, as well as the duration of flowering, dahlias deserve wide use in flower beds.

They can be planted in large masses, in groups or individually. Dahlias are planted in holes 30-40 cm deep. Since plants grow and bloom well in rich soils, before planting, it is recommended to place manure or humus (up to 1 kg) at the bottom of the hole, and a small layer of earth on top. Divided dahlia tubers are planted so that the neck is 3-5 cm below the surface of the ground; cuttings - up to the first pair of leaves. After planting, the dahlia stems are tied to stakes and the plant is watered. Tall varieties are planted at a distance of 80-100 cm from each other, low-growing varieties - at 50-60 cm.

Bulbous and corm plants are planted at the following depth: daffodils - 7-10 cm, tulips - 7.5-12 cm, lilies - 10-15 cm, gladioli - 7-12 cm, scylla and decorative onions - 4-5 cm.

Rhizomatous perennials are planted in holes under a shovel or in furrows to a depth depending on the size of the bush and the development of the root system. The depth of the hole or groove should be such that the root system can be freely placed in them even after the soil settles from watering, and the buds are at a depth of 4-5 cm from the surface of the earth.

Divided bushes of perennials, when planted in flower beds in the first year, do not produce abundant flowering, and there are free spaces between them. During these intervals, it is advisable to plant annuals, selecting them according to their color and flowering time, so that the flowering of some plants is replaced by the flowering of others.

When arranging mixborders in which groups of different types of flowering plants of different sizes and configurations are planted, the area is divided into square cells and the contours of each group are drawn. First, plants are planted along the contour line, and then inside it. Tall plants are planted first, and then shorter ones. In a double-sided mixborder, planting is carried out from the middle line to the edges. When planting rhizomatous perennials in combination with bulbous plants, the rhizomatous ones are planted first, and the bulbous ones between them.

Caring for flowers. Flower plants, especially annuals and biennials, require careful care.

Caring for them involves watering and loosening the soil, weeding weeds, fertilizing and regulating flowering.

Watering begins after planting the seedlings, regardless of the degree of soil moisture. Summer seedlings are watered daily until the plants take root, and then, depending on the weather, 2-3 times a week.

Perennials in the first year of planting, while the plants have not yet grown and the soil between them remains open, must be watered regularly and often. In the future, when the plants grow and shade the soil, watering is carried out during dry periods, provided that the soil is kept loose and free from weeds. Some perennials - tomentose phlox, bush aster, sedum - are relatively drought-resistant, and therefore less demanding on watering, while others - paniculate phlox, funkia, lupine - produce abundant and long-lasting flowering only with sufficient soil moisture.

In urban plantings, flower plants need to be watered regularly, since temperature conditions, especially on the streets, are more severe. In parks and large gardens, watering of perennials is resorted to only during drought.

The best time to water is in the evening and morning. It is not recommended to water the plants on hot, sunny days: the water quickly evaporates and a dense crust forms on the surface of the soil.

Dahlias have great watering requirements. They are watered at least once a week. During the period of vigorous growth and flowering, it is recommended to spray dahlias with water every morning and evening. To avoid rotting of the tubers during winter storage, watering should be stopped two weeks before the onset of frost, so that the tubers are not wet at the time of digging.

Watering rate: for annuals - 10-15 liters of water and for perennials - 15-20 liters per 1 sq. m.

When watering, you should avoid a strong stream of water, which erodes the soil, and use special sprayers.

Metal pipes with small holes at the top, fed from the water supply network, are very convenient and economical for irrigation. They are laid horizontally near the surface of the earth on a flower bed (or lawn). Portable portable sprinklers of various designs are also used for irrigation.

It should be noted that some plants do not tolerate watering from above (phlox, lupine), since when water gets in, the flowers lose their decorative effect; plants with tall peduncles (delphinium) go down when watered from above, and the bush loses its decorative effect. Such plants should be watered with a gentle stream.

Loosening the soil and weeding. Loosening and destruction of weeds are of particular importance for preserving moisture and air exchange in the soil.

Loosening should be carried out every time after heavy rain or watering. For summer plantings, loosening to a depth of 5 cm is sufficient.

The first loosening of the soil on perennial plantings is done in early spring to a depth of 8 cm; directly near the bushes, the tillage depth should be 2-3 cm, so as not to damage the young roots. Simultaneously with the first loosening, old foliage is removed from the area.

The second loosening begins as soon as the weeds begin to sprout. If by this time the plants have closed their crowns and tillage is difficult, loosening is carried out around the entire group of perennials. In the future, if the plants grow strongly, there is no need for loosening and you can limit yourself to weeding.

Weeds in flower beds must be removed throughout the growing season.

Plant nutrition. Fertilizing flower plants has not yet received proper distribution. Meanwhile, in many cases, without fertilizing it is impossible to achieve rich and long flowering, especially perennials. They resort to fertilizing one- and two-year-olds if the soil is not fertile enough and it was not fertilized before planting. If the plants are developing well, you should refrain from feeding them so as not to cause vigorous growth due to weak flowering.

Organic and mineral fertilizers are used for feeding. In cities, the situation with organic fertilizers is more complicated than in rural areas. Therefore, they mainly use mineral fertilizers.

The first feeding of summer trees, if necessary, is carried out approximately two weeks after planting, the second - in mid-July. Mineral fertilizers are applied in dry form per 1 square meter. m ammonium nitrate 25-30 g, superphosphate - 50-60 and potassium salt - 20 g.

Fertilizers are incorporated into the soil while loosening, after which they water abundantly, spending at least 10 liters of water per 1 square meter. m.

Fertilizers in liquid form have a faster effect, but in this case, fertilizers should not be allowed to get on the leaves, which can cause the death of the plant. You can use ready-made fertilizer mixtures available for sale: “flower”, “garden” and others. This mixture is dissolved in water at the rate of 40 g (or 1.5 tablespoons of fertilizer) per 10 liters of water.

The best organic fertilizers are cow manure and bird droppings. They are prepared in the following way. Mullein is placed in a barrel and filled with water (3 buckets of water per bucket of manure). The mixture is kept in a warm place for three days for fermentation. To avoid large losses of nitrogen, it is recommended to add 5% superphosphate (by volume) to the solution. Before use, the mixture is diluted again with a double portion of water.

Dry bird droppings should first be crushed and dissolved in water. For use, the manure solution is diluted with water 10-15 times. For 1 sq. m consume 10 liters of mullein solution or bird droppings.

Dahlias should be fed with mullein solution every two weeks before flowering at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 5-8 plants.

Perennials, growing in one place for several years, take a large amount of nutrients from the soil. Therefore, they are fed twice a year: the first time with nitrogen fertilizers (20 g per 1 sq. m) when the soil is first loosened in the spring; the second time - before flowering begins. During the second feeding, complete fertilizer is given at the rate indicated above. It is useful to feed abundantly flowering perennials 2-3 times a year, in addition to mineral fertilizers, with liquid organic fertilizers (mullein or bird droppings). Fertilizing should not be done late (in September), as it will delay the preparation of plants for winter.

In order to preserve moisture in the soil and protect its surface from overheating, it is useful to cover the soil with a layer of mulch of 5-10 cm. This is especially important for dahlias, which sometimes die from overheating of the soil surface.

Compost, burnt manure, leaves, and dry grass are used as mulch. Perennials that bloom in spring should be cut back to the ground in summer.

Haircut and pruning of plants. Some annuals used in borders (pyrethrum, irezine, cineraria maritima, santolina) are subjected to periodic pruning, preventing them from flowering. It is started a few days after planting and rooting of plants and repeated after 7-10 days. Cutting with hand scissors.

Trimming causes branching of plants and gives severity and clarity to the lines of the border. Carpet plants must be trimmed. Kochia, ageratum and alyssum tolerate pruning well. The latter is cut off when it grows too much and stops blooming.

To maintain the decorative appearance of flower beds and extend the flowering period, timely removal of ovaries and fruits from plants is of great importance, since after their formation flowering stops.

The entire flower cluster with fruits and apical flowers is cut off from the snapdragon, after which side shoots develop, which give abundant re-blooming.

Marigolds and marigolds bloom long and richly if their faded flowers are cut off and their green fruits are picked off. Sweet pea pods are picked off. For poppy, delphinium, and pyrethrum, you can cut off the flowers and foliage, but for phlox and rudbeckia, only the flowers above the top leaf. In perennials - gaillardia, coreopsis, yarrow, the inflorescences are removed as they fade; delphinium, lupine and bells are pruned when more than 80% of the flowers have faded. This pruning causes re-blooming.

By pinching the apical shoots during the formation of buds on them, you can prolong the flowering of phlox, lupine, and lychnis. After pinching, they form side shoots, due to which the plant bushes strongly and blooms profusely.

For better tillering and abundant flowering of small-flowered chrysanthemums, it is necessary to pinch the apical shoots: the first time when the young plants reach 10-12 cm, the second time when the new shoots grow 8-10 cm.

It is advisable to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums in one stem. To obtain large inflorescences, pinch the tops of the shoots three times and remove all side shoots. Some varieties are grown in 3-5 inflorescences with a single pinching of shoots at a height of 15-17 cm. During the development of buds, in order to obtain large inflorescences, all side shoots of large-flowered chrysanthemums are removed in several stages, and only one central bud is left on the main shoot.

The duration of flowering and the size of the dahlia inflorescence are negatively affected by stepsons - lateral shoots that develop abundantly from the axils of the leaves; they must be removed as close to the stem as possible until buds appear in the leaf axils of the main stems. Excess buds and shoot buds are also removed to obtain large inflorescences. On each shoot, only one central bud is left, and the lateral younger buds adjacent to it are removed.

In early spring, old shoots of all perennials must be pruned before new shoots appear.

To maintain a flower garden in a decorative condition, it is necessary to replace fading plants with blooming ones later. For example, spring flowering plants (tulips, forget-me-nots, pansies, etc.) are replaced, without waiting for all the flowers to fully bloom, with annuals, and annuals and biennials with a short flowering period (lewkoe, carnation, barbatus, etc.) - with late-flowering annuals.

Every May, as a not very experienced summer resident, I have questions, the answers to which I always forget. Just like in that joke about a student: “I knew. But I forgot." One of these questions is at what distance and at what depth to sow and plant.

The well-known rule of sowing to a depth equal to three diameters of the seed baffles me. So how do you sow tiny carrot seeds? What about large potato tubers? Therefore, I offer a ready-made cheat sheet, collected bit by bit over the five years of my gardening and carefully written down in my country notebook.

Peas, beans and beans should be sown at a distance of 10-15 cm to a depth of 2-3 cm, then in case of rain the seeds will not become bare and birds will not peck them.

I sow bush dill, head lettuce, and large radishes at a distance of 5 cm, this allows me to use the seeds sparingly. The planting depth is about 1 cm for dill and radishes and a little more for lettuce, since the bush should hold up well and not fall when watered.

Without green spaces, the surrounding area or summer cottage area looks empty and uncomfortable. Therefore, they are trying to improve it with the help of various plants. However, planting trees and shrubs is not such an easy task. Over time, the seedlings grow, they can damage the fence, nearby buildings, and disturb neighbors. This can be prevented by the norms for planting trees and bushes in relation to the fence of the neighboring area.

The development of the local area, including the construction of buildings and planting of green spaces, is carried out in accordance with certain sanitary norms and rules (SNiP). They regulate various technological aspects:

• distance between plants;
• rules for planting trees from the fence;
• the presence of a free zone around residential/commercial buildings.

Compliance with these standards contributes to better growth, fruiting of green spaces, and the establishment of good neighborly relations. How many meters should you retreat from important structures and structures?

Maintaining distance between adjacent areas

When arranging a house or summer cottage area, you should be guided not only by your own desires, vision of the beauty of the composition, but also by the comfort of your neighbors.

The growth rate of trees and shrubs differs. Some plantings take up little space, while others have a sloping crown and a developed root system. If you plant them close to a neighbor's property, they can cause trouble after a while.

In addition to such inconveniences as the creation of excessive shading, obstructions of structures, falling of branches and fruits into adjacent areas, difficulties with harvesting, a fire hazard may arise and even the threat of destruction of buildings. Therefore, it is necessary to maintain the distance from the fence to the trees in order to avoid violating the integrity of this object, its shading, and stopping the growth and fruiting of plants.

Development and improvement of the site is carried out in accordance with regulatory documents SNiP 30-02-97, 30-03-97, 30-102-99 .

They regulate at what distance from fences and borders of adjacent territories green spaces can be planted. According to the standards, tall trees (poplar, oak, pine, birch) must be located at least 4 m from the dividing line, medium-height plantings (cherry, cherry plum, apple tree, plum, hazel) - 2 m, small ones (berry and ornamental shrubs) - for 1 m. Correct distance

Important: measurements are taken from the neighbor’s fence to the stem part of the plant.

These standards do not provide for a double fence (your own and your neighbor’s). But in practice this happens. Therefore, it is important to prevent the destruction of your own barrier by the crowns and root system of plants. The optimal distance from the enclosing structure to tree trunks is 2.5-3 meters.

Attention: if plants are located close to the border of the territory, the owner of the site may be given an order to cut them down. If the situation is not resolved peacefully, disputes are resolved in court.

Distance to road

Often green spaces are located on the outside of the site. In this case, the distance from the bushes to the roadway should be at least 1 m, from the trees - 1.5-2 m. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a distance from power lines. To prevent tree crowns from creating barriers to the supply of electricity and a fire hazard, the distance from them to the masts of the lighting network should be more than one and a half meters.

Setback from structures

The site contains buildings for various purposes (residential, utility). Planting vegetation near these objects threatens to damage the brickwork due to the development of the root system and crown. Excessive shading has an adverse effect on the condition of structures. It prevents normal insolation of premises and creates favorable conditions for the development of fungus and mold.

At what distance from buildings can trees (deciduous, fruit) and shrubs be planted?

In accordance with SNiP 2.08.01 - 89, tall plantings should be located on average 5 meters from a residential property, the minimum is 3 m.

The optimal distance of plants from outbuildings intended for keeping animals, poultry (barn) is 4 m, other buildings (garage, bathhouse, shed, summer kitchen) - at least 1 m.

This distance will allow you to avoid shading of the rooms of the house, technical rooms by the crown of trees, and destruction of the foundation by the root system. If the goal is to shade the room, use plants with a spreading crown, which are planted 1.5 m from the outer wall of the house.

There are regulations governing the placement of vegetation in relation to various communications. Trees must be kept at least 2 m away from water and gas pipelines and electrical cable lines.

Please note: so that green spaces do not interfere with movement around the site, they are located at least 0.5 m before the garden paths.

Maintaining distance between plants

For the normal development and fruiting of green spaces, they need to be provided with suitable conditions. To do this, they are planted at certain distances.

The distance between trees that tolerate sun and shade equally well should be 2-3 m. Fruit-bearing crops should be planted in increments of 5-6 m, and low-growing, decorative ones with a narrow crown (juniper, thuja) - 1-2 m. The exact indicators depend depending on the species or type of tree. So for tall apple trees the minimum distance is 6 m, for medium-sized ones - 3.5 m, for low-growing ones - 2.5 m.

Note: compliance with these indicators will ensure optimal growth rate of green spaces, their decorative qualities and fruiting.

Land development is a responsible matter. Trees (fruit, deciduous), shrubs must be planted thoughtfully, according to the law, observing established norms and rules. This will avoid damage to structures, fences, communications, conflicts with neighbors, and also create suitable conditions for the growth and development of plants.