The toilet tank is leaking: what to do and how to fix it. Repairing a toilet cistern - faults and their elimination The toilet is leaking at the junction with the cistern

It’s good when the bathroom works like a clock, but according to the laws of so-called meanness, we have to find out why the toilet tank is leaking, what to do and who is to blame, at the most inopportune moment. To speed up the process of returning this attribute of a comfortable life to your senses, we present several typical problem situations and their solutions.

If you go to your toilet at your leisure and study its structure, you will notice that the most complex structure is the tank. Inside it there is even a mechanism of a certain action, all parts of which interact properly and allow significant amounts of water to be drained, carrying all the waste into the sewer. It is expected that it will not always work so well, and someday its plastic elements will crack, gaskets will leak, bolts will rust, or simply become loose. All this will cause a leak, which will result, at best, in an increased figure in the water consumption column on the utility bill. At worst, you will experience a sudden flood, the consequences of which will affect your neighbors.

To avoid all this, you should sometimes take a closer look at the space near the toilet and behind it, so you can quickly notice a puddle under the tank or in the area of the hoses, and also not ignore the phenomenon of water leaking from the flush hole. If even minor defects are discovered, care should be taken to eliminate them; this will be faster and cheaper than carrying out major repairs later. There are several types of tank designs, but they differ slightly, so when looking for problems and solutions, you can find your way by lifting the lid. So, In total, three areas can be distinguished for inspection and repair - the tank itself, its mechanism and hoses. Let's look at each option separately.

Let's start with the hose, which is still outside and connects the water pipe to the tank. As a rule, it breaks in the middle and rarely leaks, unless, of course, you damage it mechanically on purpose. But the connection points, especially on the side of the float structure, are problem areas. It is quite easy to determine the breakdown here; a trickle, which, depending on the severity of the damage to the fastening, will either drip steadily or gush out, will persistently hint you about it. In this case, it is necessary to establish whether this phenomenon is caused simply by loosely tightened nuts or whether a crack in the valve, which crowns the end of the hose at the junction with the float mechanism, is to blame.

Check the fasteners and gaskets under them; if everything is tightened well, and the rubber part has retained sufficient thickness and has no signs of wear or tear, then you should check the valve. By the way, if you still find a lack of connection in this particular place, then just change the gasket and tighten the nuts, just pay attention to what material they are made of. Plastic products should not be screwed with a metal tool; you can not only damage it from the outside, but also tear off the thread, or even split it completely without calculating the force. In this case, it is enough to screw it by hand; you can use a rubberized glove to prevent your hands from slipping.

If the problem is in the valve, and this can only be a crack, then there is no point in eliminating it, such a part must simply be replaced. But don’t rush to the store, remove the old valve and take it with you. Due to differences in cistern designs, you may purchase a product that does not fit your toilet, although it may look very similar to what you are looking for. To remove it, turn off the water, remove the tank cap and remove the valve from the connection between the hose and the float mechanism. You already guessed how to install a new one.

Now let's turn our attention to the other outer side of the tank, with which it adjoins the toilet itself. To do this, the latter has a kind of shelf on which the gasket is placed, and then placed on top. So this intermediate strip, which saves sanitaryware from mutual abrasion and seals the joint at the same time, can be rubber, plastic or metal. A leak in this area is characterized by the formation of a puddle after each flush. The gap through which water comes out may appear due to wear or even due to a simple shift in the cuff.

The first step is to check the clamps that secure the material between the tank and the toilet shelf. The gasket will become unusable even faster if you tighten these fasteners, so don’t get carried away, and if during the check you determined that they are tightened enough, you don’t need to make a “control” turn with the key. If this does not help, but the cuff still looks good in appearance and promises to serve for at least 5 years, you can treat its edges with sealant and press it.

Sometimes the gasket is not to blame for the leak, but the problem lies in the bolts that directly hold the tank together, these are two large fasteners with nuts. It is precisely their weakening, rust or abrasion of the gasket under the nuts that causes constant water leakage, even if no one uses the toilet. To get to this part, you need to turn off the water and drain the entire contents of the tank. Unscrew the nuts that are located under the toilet, check the metal for rust, and the rubber bands for signs of wear. If such defects are found, purchase a new set of fasteners and install it.

If, while crawling under the tank, you see that there is a crack on the body itself, it is unlikely that anything will save you from buying a new set of toilet bowl, since there is no point in sealing the sanitaryware.

How to repair the mechanism inside the tank when there is a leak?

Now we have come to the most interesting stage of the repair - the mechanism, you should climb into it when water oozes from the toilet drain hole, that is, it does not close hermetically after flushing. The float or siphon may be problematic, so let’s determine the sequence of how to eliminate the unnerving murmur of the toilet.

Plumbing fixtures wear out over time. Some parts require correction, others require replacement. Finding out about a breakdown is quite simple: the tank begins to leak, makes a lot of noise, and problems arise with flushing. But you can carry out repairs yourself, without special knowledge.

It is possible to carry out toilet repair work, because the design is quite simple. The toilet design includes a bowl and a tank. But most often breakdowns are observed in the tank.

The cistern operates on the principle of a water seal. Its system includes levers, a seal and a float. After draining, the water flows back into the container and at a certain point the shut-off valve is activated.

Signs of a problem with the tank:

Liquid constantly flows into the tank;
Water leaks from the cistern into the toilet;
To flush the house you need to press the flush button several times;
The flush lever doesn't work at all;
The toilet is leaking;
Lots of noise when draining.

The main thing is to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown, and repairs are not at all difficult. If there is a constant flow of liquid into the tank, the reason lies in the skew or displacement of the float. This breakdown can be fixed quite simply - you need to install the parts in the correct place.

The correct location of the float is determined 2.5 cm below the connection of the underwater pipe.

It is easy to turn off the water supply using a wrench. Inspecting the float often helps determine the cause of the leak. If the float is damaged, water flows into it and the element becomes heavier.

Repairing a float is quite simple. It is necessary to remove the element and pour out excess liquid from it. The chip should be repaired and reconnected to the system. But such repairs will only last for the first time; then you will need to completely replace the broken part. The resulting chips are repaired using heated polyethylene.

What to do if the toilet is leaking from below

If the tank is leaking from below, then the siphon membrane needs to be replaced. The same operation should be done if the water is not washed off for a long time. This process is quite simple to complete.

Membrane replacement sequence:

First, a crossbar is installed instead of the tank lid;
A float is connected to the crossbar;
All liquid should be drained from the tank;
The nut holding the pipe to the tank will need to be unscrewed;
The siphon nut is also loosened;
Then the siphon is removed;
After this, the membrane is removed and replaced;
Then all the removed parts are installed.

If the flush lever is not working, the rod is repaired. The broken part is removed and replaced with a new one. A homemade wire element is suitable for this. Over time, you can acquire new traction.

But most often the tank leaks water due to wear of the gasket between the toilet and the tank. There is a constant flow of water in the bowl, which is reminiscent of yellow spots. The worn element should be replaced with a new one. First, turn off the water and disconnect the flush tank from the toilet, then unfasten the drain. With this part they go to a plumbing store and buy a similar one.

In some cases, drain replacement is not required. Perhaps the problem is wear and distortion of the rings. They are either corrected or replaced.

When the tank is leaking, you need to check that the water level is correctly set. There is a special tube to drain excess liquid. It should be moved lower.

How to properly fix a leak between the tank and the toilet

If a leak appears between the tank and the toilet, then the reason is the depressurization of the device. Most likely, the problem is the deformation of the seal, a special rubber gasket. To fix the problem, you will need to replace the gasket.

Gasket replacement steps:

First, turn off the water supply;
The liquid from the tank will need to be drained, possible residues will also be removed;
There is a drain nut under the descent hatch that should be loosened;
Then you should remove the tank by unscrewing the corresponding nuts at the fastening point;
You will also need to unscrew the drain;
Next you need to replace the gasket;
Then reinstall all parts back into place.

But the cause of the problem may also be an old rusty bolt that holds the container to the bowl. Next you will need to replace the damaged part. Also, first the water is shut off and the water is drained. The bolts will need to be removed and replaced with new ones. Sealing washers are required.

When purchasing gaskets, be sure to take into account their size, because the element is available in different forms. That is why you need to know exactly the dimensions of the part.

Sometimes you can only tighten loose bolts. To do this, just fix the element with a key and turn it with a screwdriver. But you need to be careful not to damage the ceramic bowl. That is why it is better to replace parts rather than constantly tighten them.

Securing the gasket between the cistern and the toilet

The gasket is one of the most popular fasteners. The advantages of such a part are obvious: small size and reliable fastening. But there is also a minus - a little pressure. To flush the drains, the tank needs quite a lot of water to operate.

Types of gaskets:

In the shape of a guitar;
Round;
Invoice.

The replacement takes place quite quickly. First, all communications are turned off. You will need to drain the water from the tank and disconnect it from the bowl. To do this, simply unscrew the bolts.

Older models have metal bolts and they will rust over time. Removing these elements using a key is not easy; you can damage the ceramics. It is best to treat the parts with a special liquid WD-40.

The rubber seal requires replacement. To increase sealing, use silicone sealant. You can apply a gasket or mount it in a special hole.

There may also be a gasket between the bowl and the toilet. It all depends on the chosen toilet model. This element acts as a shock absorber. This minimizes possible damage between porcelain and earthenware.

Modern toilets mostly come without gaskets. From the tank to the bowl there is a solid monolith. Using such a toilet is simple and convenient, but the cost of the device is quite high.

When the toilet tank is constantly leaking, you are guaranteed to experience nervous irritation:
at night you will hear water flowing;

when leaving home, worry whether the apartment and the neighbors below will flood;

the appearance of rust in the toilet;

condensation on the pipes, then mold in the toilet;

the counter readings increase.

To avoid such troubles, initially entrust the installation and connections of plumbing to specialists. Eliminate all subsequent breakdowns by studying the causes of the problem in advance.

A leaking tank is one of the most common toilet breakdowns.

What is the reason?

Like any problem, fixing a leaking toilet starts with identifying the source of the problem.

Reasons for a leaking toilet:

if the plumbing is new and recently installed, the reasons lie in improper installation and connection; the mechanism for filling the tank with water and draining it is not installed correctly;

if your toilet is at least six months old, the cause of the tank leak may be poor-quality materials or fittings;

obvious mechanical problems of the toilet arise after three years of operation: polymer materials become brittle and can break due to a sharp change in pressure in the pipes.

If you want to fix the leak yourself, you can determine the true problem by disassembling the tank and inspecting it for damage, cracks, and checking the water shut-off valve. In this case, you have two options:

Shut off the water supply and watch for water leaks. If the water does not flow, and it remains in the drain tank itself, then the cause of the breakdown lies in an incorrectly adjusted or clogged system for automatically supplying water to the tank (we call it a float).

If water flows until the drain tank is completely empty, the cause of the breakdown lies in the drain valve. It can easily become clogged and simply break.

In the first case, the “float” broke; it is enough to just adjust the water pressure that passes through the fill valve, and complete disassembly of the drain tank is not necessary.

If you find that the cause of the water leak is the drain valve, you will have to disassemble the tank. But before that, it’s better to flush the water several times while simultaneously pressing the drain button with a little force.

Most often, small but hard salt deposits are the cause of jamming of the mechanism. By doing this forced flushing of the tank, you may be able to get rid of the debris.

Problem options

As sad as it sounds, the drain tank can leak in different ways. Therefore, before disassembling the mechanism, you need to determine exactly how the water flows.

Water can leak from the tank for various reasons.

Failure of the cistern in several variations:

water flows out through the overflow;

water begins to flow before reaching the overflow;

leaks between the toilet bowl and the cistern;

flows simultaneously with the drain.

Of course, the plumber’s phone number is always at hand, but such problems are quite easy to fix on your own, just by studying the mechanism.

Overflow

The essence of the problem: the tank overflows with water, and it simply comes out through the overflow.

Why does the tank overflow with water?

the gasket in the valve was deformed: over time, the rubber part lost its elasticity and stopped tightly closing the water;

the gasket is not pressed tightly enough: the element itself is not broken, it is just weakly pressed against the hole of the drain valve;

the pin that holds the float lever located in the valve body is rusted or lost;

the float lever has moved;

the valve could simply crack if it is plastic; If the device is made of brass, a similar reason is impossible.

The most common problem is a misaligned lever. To correct this situation, it is enough to return the lever to its place: it should lie horizontally, lower than the pipe inlet.

Eliminating continuous leakage through an overflow:

Remove the top cover of the cistern.

Raise the float one centimeter: if the leak has stopped and you didn’t need much effort to do it, your search is over.

Turn the float lever a little so that it closes the water earlier.

If water continues to flow when you raise the float, you most likely need to pay attention to the valve. The design of the valve itself has a pin that secures the lever; make sure that it is intact and intact.

A damaged pin can be replaced with a piece of copper wire.

Also, there should be no holes in the place where the stud is attached. If it does exist, you will have to buy a new valve. Be sure to bring a sample of the old mechanism with you.

If water constantly flows despite the gasket being tightly pressed to the valve hole, the problem can only be solved by purchasing a new device.

We looked at the example of a classic toilet, but if you have a modern device, look for the origins of the problems and their solutions by studying your toilet model individually.

If the plumbing is new, the cause of leaks may be improper installation.

Water begins to flow before reaching the overflow

The essence of the problem: water constantly flows, regardless of whether the overflow level has been reached or not.

The cause of the leak may be in the bolt that holds the toilet and the shelf together; it is either rusted (if it is steel) or cracked (if it is plastic).

Solution to the problem:

Make sure the water only flows up to the overflow level.

Turn off the water and flush the tank.

Dismantle the flexible line coming from the tank.

Remove the bolts that secure the shelf to the toilet. Inspect the fittings: if they are in good condition, it is enough to replace just a couple of bolts, or buy a new set of fittings.

Rusty bolts need to be cut off with a hacksaw.

Remove the shelf from the cuff, drain the remaining water and place the mechanism on a flat surface.

Reassemble the tank with new bolts, preferably brass. Repeat all steps in reverse order.

Experts recommend replacing the rubber gaskets in any case.

If necessary, tighten the cuff with an aluminum tie or copper wire.

Leak between toilet bowl and cistern

Option No. 1: the problem can be solved easily: just tighten or simply correct the part.

Causes of the problem: a faulty cuff is most often the cause of water leakage.

Regardless of what material the cuff is made of, there are clamps for both plastic and metal. Tighten the cuff with clamps carefully, not too tight, but not too loose.

If the cuff device is corrugated, then it can simply move. In this case, simply return the part to its place and secure it.

Option No. 2: replacing rubber gaskets, tightening bolts and nuts.

Causes of the problem: too weak fixation of the shelf to the tank.

Just tighten the fastenings. Metal bolts rust and become deformed over time, but this does not happen to brass bolts.

If tightening the bolts and nuts does not help, check the rubber gaskets. They need to either be completely replaced or repaired (dry, apply sealant, dry and reinstall with bolts).

Option No. 3: replacing the drain tank.

Cause of the problem: Water leaking between the tank and the shelf may be a sign that the shelf is completely broken.

This kind of problem is very serious. It is better for you to consult a specialist, because a breakdown often requires a complete replacement of the toilet bowl or even the flush tank.

Plumbing products should be regularly inspected for cracks, including the cuff and pipes.

Toilet design for a better understanding of the problem

Leaking at the same time as draining

The essence of the problem: every time you press the drain, water begins to leak from under the tank.

Option #1:

Check the serviceability of the drain mechanism inside the tank. Take the valve with your hand and press it lightly. If the leak has stopped, it means that the reason was hidden in the loose fit of the valve in the center of the tank.

In this case, you just need to replace the gasket in the valve.

But this reason is far from the only one.

Option #2:

The next reason for the tank leaking may be a displaced drain button.

If the height adjuster has moved and the valve is higher than the drain hole, then a gap will form between the drain and the shut-off valve.

You just need to return the water height regulator to its original position.

The breakdown is quite simple and not at all costly.

Option #3:

A loose nut on the outside may result in water leakage.

You need to carefully and carefully tighten the nut and also check all the fasteners that secure the flush cistern to the toilet.

Minor damage can be repaired and sealed, but major damage must be completely replaced.

Plumbing breakdowns happen in every apartment; such a malfunction must be eliminated quickly, because there is a risk of flooding the neighbors below. Fortunately, the design of the toilet is so simple that you can deal with the problem yourself without calling an emergency team. How to fix a toilet with your own hands? Let's look at the causes of the most common breakdowns and steps to eliminate them.

Toilet device

In order to correctly find the fault and carry out repairs, you need to study the structure and operating diagram of the toilet, determine the parts and components that are replaced.

Toilet elements:

the bowl is fixed to the floor or wall, a seat and a lid are attached to the top, which closes mechanically or using a microlift;

water from the bowl goes into the outlet pipe, which is connected to the sewer with a special cuff;

The tank is filled with water to rinse the bowl and can be mounted either on a stand on top of the bowl (compact) or hidden in the wall.

The fittings installed in the cistern can be located in two places:

flexible hose connects from the side;

water supply is carried out from below.

The tank fittings consist of the following parts:

trigger mechanism, activated by one or two drain buttons, which release 3 or 6 liters of flowing water and allow you to regulate the flow rate;

the inlet valve through which the tank is filled, the float is connected to the shut-off valve, it shuts off the water when it reaches the upper level;

rubber seals that ensure complete tightness of the system.

The cistern consists of several elements

The toilet is bolted to the floor or wall and installed on a special frame built into the wall. In this case, water enters the bowl from the tank through a connecting pipe. The drain tank is hidden in the wall, and for free access, if necessary, a false panel or door is made, disguised as a general finish. Only buttons or levers for draining are visible from the outside.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair: a practical guide

It is better not to delay troubleshooting the bowl and drain mechanism, and before work you need to turn off the water by turning the inlet valve, prepare the necessary materials and tools:

open-end wrenches;

screwdriver;

fumlenta;

silicone sealant;

pliers or pliers.

The most common toilet breakdowns:

water leakage, noise, constant drainage;

water does not fill into the tank;

shut-off valves do not work;

microlift breakdown;

drain buttons do not work;

The buttons are pressed, but the flush does not occur.

These problems can be easily fixed by replacing components that are broken; it is important to make a correct diagnosis.

Problems with the tank

The tank lid is made of ceramics or sanitary ware; it is fragile and heavy. For a preliminary inspection, you need to carefully remove the cover to identify faulty parts. If water constantly fills the tank, then the worn inlet valve needs to be replaced. If water slowly flows into the bowl all the time, the reason is a malfunction of the drain fittings, which operate spontaneously.

If no water is drawn in at all, the inlet hose or connecting pipe may be clogged. The cause of leaks lies in the wear of the sealing gaskets and a violation of the tightness.

Adjusting the water volume

The water level in the tank, upon reaching which the shut-off valve is activated, is determined and regulated using a special float sensor, which can be set and adjusted as desired. In Soviet times, the float was held on a thick wire, which could simply be bent so that less water would accumulate.

You can regulate the volume of water in the tank using a float sensor

In modern models, the float is adjusted with a screw or moves down along guides.

You can adjust the water volume by sliding the special limiter up or down

If the toilet was purchased recently, then most likely the water is supplied from below; in such models, the inlet membrane valve is located inside a special tube in the tank. You can adjust the volume of water by moving the overflow tube, which is located in the middle of the mechanism. To do this, first raise it to the very top and, after waiting until the tank is full, set it to a height of approximately 0.5 cm above the water level.

In modern toilets, it is enough to move the overflow tube to increase or decrease the volume of water in the tank

Water does not fill into the tank

Fixing this problem will take less than an hour, first fill a bucket with water from the tap and pour it into the bowl.

Here's how it works:

Constant water flow

The opposite problem, where water constantly flows into the tank, requires replacing the drain valve if it is leaking. Perhaps the float has become misaligned; here you just need to return the float to its working position. You can buy a new valve at a plumbing store; it costs around 300 rubles. Sequence of actions when replacing the drain valve:

If the pressure in the water supply is very strong, then even with working parts there will be a slight leak.

Noise when filling the tank

The problem of increased noise levels or extraneous sounds, for example, squeaking, whistling or splashing, gurgling, is caused by a possible disconnection of the internal water supply tube; to solve this breakdown, you need to reconnect the tube to the fitting. The cause may also be a clogged filter, especially if the whistle is accompanied by a slow intake of water into the tank. How to clean the filter:

Elimination of internal and external leaks

This problem is the most dangerous; at best, it threatens with huge costs for utilities, and at worst, flooding of neighbors and your apartment. If water flows onto the floor, you need to act quickly. The most vulnerable places are connections in which the tightness is broken.

In compacts, the tank is installed on top of the bowl, with a rubber gasket between them. Over time, the gasket deteriorates and a leak occurs; the cause may also be poor-quality installation of the structure initially.

Replacing the gasket:

A leak can also occur at the junction of the outlet cuff with the sewer pipe; the reason is improper installation of the toilet, a movable fastener that destroys the sealing layer, or wear of the sealing element. In this case, you need to make a high-quality fastening of the toilet to the floor and replace the gasket. Additionally, coat the connection with silicone sealant.

If a leak occurs, check all connections

If water flows over the top of the tank, then the problem is a slightly open shut-off valve. It can be solved by adjusting the float or replacing the locking mechanism.

Troubleshooting button problems

The buttons are attached with special rods to the lever of the locking mechanism; when pressed, the drain valve rises and the drain hole opens, releasing water. If a malfunction occurs in the operation of the buttons, they either fail when pressed or get stuck and do not release water. It will be quite difficult to find spare parts individually, so the best solution would be to replace the entire push-button mechanism.

Microlift repair (replacement)

The microlift smoothly lowers the toilet seat and lid, without unnecessary noise and the risk of chips and cracks. The microlift operates on the principle of a door closer; the device can be extremely simple, or with presence sensors and remote control. The hinge mechanism with a spring and rod can be disassembled, but the piston mechanism with cylinders cannot be disassembled. Breakage can be caused by incorrect use or wear and tear from prolonged use; most often, the microlift breaks when the lid is abruptly slammed “out of habit,” in which case the lid either falls or closes jerkily.

The toilet lid comes with special fastenings

In case of serious damage, it is better to change the entire cover with the seat and the elevator:

The simplest failure that you can fix with your own hands is a prolonged creaking sound when the cover moves, which means that you need to apply lubricant to the moving elements of the mechanism.

If the mounting bolts are broken, they must be replaced:

You can tighten loose supports as follows:

Remove the decorative caps on the mounting legs.

Open the lid and seat and carefully lift it up and remove it from the fastenings.

Move the fasteners to the desired position and tighten the nuts or screws; there is no need to touch the closer mechanism, then install the cover in place.

Replacing shut-off valves

Operating procedure:

The design of the toilet is simple, most faults can be eliminated yourself, and spare parts are inexpensive. Exclusive models use non-separable mechanisms; it is better to entrust the repair of such toilets with additional options to specialists.

Current and faulty plumbing is a source of eternal headache, however, in most cases, fixing the problem is much easier than we think. If your toilet constantly flows, this is a reason to take urgent action. High humidity, unpleasant background noise, problems with neighbors - this is a non-exhaustive list of problems that you may encounter. What are the utility bills alone?

Think about it: in a day, a leaking toilet can result in about 200 liters of water spilling out, for which you will have to pay. So what should you do if the toilet is leaking?

There can be two ways out: the first is to call a specialist and rely on his professionalism, and the second is to roll up your sleeves and tackle this issue yourself. If you prefer the second option, then below you will find detailed instructions, as well as a list of recommendations and tips that will help you. Don’t forget that the cost of a good plumber’s services today is almost equal to the price of the plumbing itself.

How to fix a leak in a toilet - step-by-step instructions

So, the toilet is leaking - what to do? You need to start by turning off the water. You should not neglect this point in order to avoid additional problems. Remember: water flows into the toilet flush mechanism under pressure and if something suddenly goes wrong, an impromptu fountain may appear in your toilet. Next, you need to find out which part is malfunctioning and, depending on the need, stock up on some working materials.

You may need the following spare materials:

construction sealant;

knife and sandpaper;

tow, twine or burlap;

you will need a new analogue of some part if it turns out to be broken.

In addition to materials, you may need construction tools - pliers, screwdriver, hammer.

The most difficult thing is, perhaps, identifying the essence of the problem. The mechanism by which the toilet and flush system works is not that complicated, but it consists of a number of parts, the operation of which you will need to take a close look at.

Reason 1. The reason why the toilet is leaking may be the fact that it is not screwed to the floor (or wall) well enough. In this case, you just need to check the fasteners, tighten them if necessary or replace them with new ones. Be careful, as the toilet is seated on tiles, and if you pull too hard, the tiles may crack.

Reason 2. If the first point does not apply to you, it makes sense to look inside the tank. The cause of the leak may be hidden there. Remove the cover very carefully. This part is relatively fragile and can be easily broken or damaged. And since toilets tend to vary greatly in shape and design, finding a new lid can be challenging. An accidentally broken lid can be a reason to buy a new tank or even toilet, so be careful.

Reason 3. If water flows from the toilet tank, the cause of this is most often a bulb that does not fit tightly to the drainage point. Over time, this part can become deformed, as a result of which a free space appears in the place of a loose fit, from which water flows. The most obvious way to solve this problem is to simply buy a new pear.

Reason 4. If you do not have the opportunity or desire to buy a new pear, you can always continue to use the old one. Of course, it will have to be repaired a little to do this. To return the pear to its original shape, stuff it with some material, such as twine, tow or burlap.

Reason 5. Even if the bulb fits tightly enough to the drain and has the correct shape, the problem that causes water to flow in the toilet may remain. Perhaps the whole point is that the pear is underweight. In this case, you need to weigh it down. This can be done this way: take a fairly large nut and place it on the rod. Ready!

Reason 6: If you are dealing with old plumbing, rust may be the cause of the leak. It can accumulate in the drainage area and interfere with the tight fit of the pear. If this is the case, remove the bulb and use sandpaper to thoroughly clean the saddle. If the situation is really bad and the layer of accumulated rust is too large, use a knife. Chunks of rust or other debris may also accumulate in the drain area, especially if you have old metal pipes in your home. If this is the case, simply unclog the drain.

Reason 7. It also happens that water constantly flows in the toilet, but the flush tank does not fill. In this case, most likely the problem lies in the fact that the float is skewed. It is easy to determine that the float is skewed - it will lie at the very bottom. Solving this issue is extremely simple: slightly move the mechanism so that it falls into place.

Reason 8. How to fix a leak in the toilet if you were unable to return the float to its place? Perhaps the reason for the leak lies in the fact that the connection between the lever on the left and the float has been broken. Return the float to its place - this should help eliminate the leak.

Reason 9. If your toilet tank is clean of rust and debris, the tank filling mechanism works smoothly, and all of the above operations did not help fix the problem, you may need to replace the flush mechanism itself. This is quite simple to do, but it is important to know the following: the drainage system can be designed in two ways - when water is connected to the tank from below or from the side. First, determine what type of connection you are dealing with. Next, pay attention to the two valves involved in the drain mechanism - we are talking about the inlet valve and the outlet valve.

Reason 10. According to statistics, the exhaust valve breaks somewhat more often. If this is the problem, then the intake valve may not need to be changed at all. However, they are only sold as a set, so you will have to buy both. Unscrewing the exhaust valve and putting a new one in its place is not at all difficult: unscrew the connecting bolts (there are two of them), then the valve itself and replace the gasket. Install the new mechanism and check that everything works properly. Check yourself again: did you remember to turn off the water?

Reason 11. How to fix a leak in the toilet if the inlet valve is broken? Let's start with the fact that it will be easy to determine: in this case, the water flows directly onto the floor. Intake valves are also divided into two types according to the type of connection (bottom or side). However, regardless of the type of connection, the principle of operation of the intake valves is the same. This mechanism is based on a float, which rises to the top as it fills with water. It happens that the float clings to something and stops rising. If this is your case, just unhook it. If this is not the case, and there is a need to replace the intake valve with a new one, perform the same operation as with the exhaust valve. Use a wrench to unscrew the old valve and install the new one. Before you do all these operations, remember that you need to turn off the water.

Reason 12. Do not forget that any work that you carry out in the toilet flush barrel must be carried out with extreme caution. Parts of this system may be fragile or simply worn out and can easily break if handled carelessly.

Reason 13. How to fix a leak in the toilet if all the above mechanisms are working properly? Another source of the problem may be the connection of the toilet, or rather the corrugation, i.e. the place where the toilet connects to the sewer pipes. It is better not to put off solving this problem until later, as an unpleasant odor may appear or your neighbors’ ceiling may leak. You can try to correct the situation with sealant, but this will not work if the corrugation you have installed is cheap or completely worn out. The only way out of the situation if the corrugation is leaking is to replace it with a new one. You can buy new corrugation at the market or at a specialized plumbing store. There should be no problems with the choice - the diameters of pipes and similar connections have long been standardized and adjusted to each other. You shouldn’t skimp on this part and choose the best reinforced stainless corrugation so that after a while you don’t have to change it too. Reinforced corrugation with a stainless steel coating will, of course, cost more, but it is more reliable and will ultimately serve you much longer than its cheaper counterparts. For the operation of replacing the corrugation, you will also need a special plumbing sealant.

So, remove the old corrugation and properly remove the layer of old sealant. This is necessary so that the new corrugation fits as tightly as possible. Then apply a new coat of construction sealant and place the new corrugation on the sewer pipe. Apply a new layer of sealant over it. It is important to perform all these operations as carefully as possible. Let the construction sealant dry thoroughly (this may take a couple of hours, no more), and then check how the mechanism works. If you carefully studied our instructions and followed our recommendations, you should not have any problems installing the new corrugation.