Gopher cps 3205 power supply. Gopher protocol. What is gopher

Sometimes it seems to me that I do not review, I still get an overview of the power supply.
But in this case, it was originally planned to review the power supply. I had seen it before, so it was even more interesting for me to feel it myself and tell others about my impressions.
Tests, disassembly, analysis, everything is as always and in the same place :)

Sometimes you might think that I'm leaving too good feedback about goods. This is partly due not to my desire to praise the product, but to the fact that I always try to carefully select products for reviews, and some I myself ask to be added to the assortment.
This product just belongs to the category of those that I asked to add, and it is clear that I then decided to write a review :)
But this is so, a lyrical digression, and we will get down to business, i.e. for inspection, testing and other interesting things.

As always, I will hide the unpacking under the spoiler, well, so that it is, but it doesn’t bother anyone :)

Unboxing

In addition to the plastic envelope, there was some kind of soft paper

Which, unfortunately, could not protect its native box, but since the PSU is quite strong, it was not particularly threatened by anything.
On the box there is a small sticker on which, in a nutshell and numbers, it is written what is inside.

Inside, everything is quite simple, the PSU is in a tight package, pieces of foam are inserted on the sides, it sits tightly, does not hang out.


Here's the whole set. In general, the complete set of a laboratory PSU does not imply a bunch of accessories; in general, they gave everything you need.
Power cable
Load connection cable
Instruction
power unit

Instruction in English. I won’t say that it contains a lot of information, but the necessary minimum is definitely present. Although such things are usually bought by people who understand what it is, and often the instructions are needed only at the very beginning and just as a hint.

This power supply is available in a bunch of modifications (in theory, there should be about six).
Three versions with different output voltage and maximum current and two versions with three or four digit current display.
I have a CPS-3205 variant, the maximum output voltage is 32 Volts, the maximum current is 5 Amperes.
In the manual, this is the middle column in the description of the characteristics. I remind you that all photos in the review are clickable.

Also in the kit they gave a cable for connecting to the load. Honestly, the cable is rubbish. When I received this PSU, I naturally wanted to at least try it :)
As a load, I took a 12 volt 45 watt car lamp, but since it just lay on the table, I didn’t turn it on for a long time, the table would still come in handy for me :) But when I finished playing, the wire was not much colder than the lamp. True, it is worth saying that I did not unravel it, but tried it as it is.
The cross section of the cable is completely non-existent, it is better to immediately replace such a cable with something more decent.
But the connectors and crocodiles are quite suitable, so you can only replace the cable itself.

I had no complaints about the power cable, except for the little thing that they accidentally sent me (or I accidentally ordered it) a cable for an American socket :(
The good thing is that an ordinary computer cable is suitable, because this was not a problem, I just took the first one I got out of the box.

Okay, I understand that no one is interested in considering cables, so I'll move on to the power supply.
The first thing that catches your eye is the small size. I think everyone understands that a PSU of such power and such dimensions is usually pulsed.
Switching power supplies have their advantages and disadvantages. If we consider a laboratory power supply, then one of the advantages will be that it has small dimensions with high power, in addition, this power supply has passive cooling (but we will return to this during tests).
Of the minuses, they usually mention elevated level ripple and a large capacity at the output, but we will also return to this.
The dimensions of this PSU are 192x120x58mm, taking into account all the protruding parts.

The layout of the front panel is quite comfortable, although not without flaws. I didn't really like the fact that the output terminals and the power switch are on the back. And while the layout of the output terminals can be adjusted, the rear power switch is not very convenient.
On the front panel, in addition to the controls, there is also an indicator of the set and real output voltage and current. This model uses a four-digit voltage indicator and a three-digit current indicator.
There is a model with a four-digit current indicator, it is a little more convenient, but also more expensive.
In this model, current up to one ampere is displayed in the format xxx.mA, more than 1 Ampere - x.xx.A, the right dot of the indicator informs about the transition to the first measurement mode.

Also on the front panel there are indicators -
Voltage stabilization mode
Current stabilization, this power supply does not have a load shutdown when the set current is exceeded, but goes into limit mode at the set value.
Control lock mode.

The current and voltage are set using an encoder. Rotation - decrease/increase, pressing - the choice of discreteness of change.
There is only one encoder, so there is an adjustment selection switch, to adjust the current or voltage.
At the bottom right there are two buttons, blocking the control and turning on the voltage supply to the output terminals

Everything is simple and modest at the back, two output terminals, an input voltage switch, a power switch and a power connector.
Particular attention should be paid to the position of the power supply switch. If the network is 230 volts and the switch is set to 110 volts, then the consequences will be sad.
The output terminals are quite normal, more than enough for a current of 5 amperes.

The entire body is made of anodized aluminum and is a large heatsink.
This design implies not only good heat dissipation, but also a rather rigid structure, the power supply seems to be monolithic.

There are no cooling fins at the bottom, but there are four small legs. These legs somehow reminded me of the old Soviet drafts, the same in appearance and the same slippery, I would advise you to glue pieces of rubber.
In general, the legs are made of either soft plastic or hard rubber, like a fingernail you can push a little, but they slide on a smooth table.

When you turn on the power supply, it immediately turns on in the - Off mode, there is no automatic voltage supply to the output, which is good in its own way, but it would be even better if you could choose whether to turn on or not after power is applied.
Corrections, it turns out there is a choice to apply voltage to the output or not after switching on.
To do this, hold down the on / off button and turn the encoder until there is an inscription (does not appear immediately) - dON, to return it back, you need to do the same until there is an inscription dOF.

First of all, I decided to check how accurately the power supply voltmeter displays the output voltage, for this I drove it over the entire range from 1 Volt to 32.30 every 5 Volts.
There were complaints only at the edges of the range, at a voltage of 1 Volt and 32.30, at the other control points the voltage was displayed very accurately.



When measuring, I set the appropriate voltage, after which the PSU switched to the output voltage display mode. In order for the power supply unit not to work completely without load (this is a difficult mode for a pulsed power supply unit), I attached a small “load” to the output in the form of a 1 kΩ resistor. By the way, in the photo at the same time you can see how the current measurement works at low values, the output current in mA is equal to the output voltage in volts.
During the measurement process, the resistor burned a little, since 32 volts is a bit too much for it.

After measuring the accuracy of displaying the output voltage, I wanted to check probably the most critical parameter for a switching power supply - the amount of voltage ripple at the output.
I immediately decided to check at the maximum declared current - 5 Amperes and at different voltages, from 5 Volts to the maximum.
The oscilloscope probe was in the 1:1 position and 50mV per division was selected, the input operation mode was AC.
An electronic load was used as a load equivalent.
Outwardly, it looked like this.

At low voltages, I didn’t notice any noticeable ripples at all, except that at a voltage of 10 volts, the oscillogram began to show “signs of life”
At the same time, in the photo you can see how the PSU holds voltage at almost the maximum load current (voltmeter on the left).

An increase in the output voltage to 15 and 20 Volts did not practically change the situation, the ripples remained exactly at the same level as at 10.

I tried it at 25 and 30 volts, I got the impression that I didn’t change anything at all, I even started checking the oscilloscope connection connector, but everything was connected fine.

At the end, I set the output to almost the maximum of what could be a PSU, 32.3 Volts and 5.08 Amps. I didn’t set it anymore, since the electronic load stabilizes the current, and when the PSU switched to current stabilization mode, the output voltage dropped to zero and the load automatically turned off. This is not a breakdown, this behavior is determined by the logic of this bundle.

But I had a feeling that I generally take the same screenshot all the time, it’s good that the waveforms were numbered, otherwise I would be 100% confused.
Not only is there no difference in the ripple level between 10 Volts and 32.3 at all, but also the ripple level is at a very decent level, with the declared 30mV, the PSU actually provides about 10mV, this is more than an excellent result, 3 times higher than the declared characteristics .

Having checked the accuracy of displaying the output voltage and the level of output voltage ripple, I moved on to checking another parameter, the accuracy of displaying the output current.
At low currents, there are small complaints about the measurement accuracy, this is due to the fact that the ADC of the device has a small capacity and at low currents it starts to show with a resolution not of 1 digit, but of the last 3-4 digits.
How this manifests itself can be seen in the photo below.

At higher load currents, everything returns to normal, and at load currents of more than 1 Ampere, the readings are displayed with enviable accuracy.

Readings are displayed sign for sign up to the maximum output current.
The tests were carried out at an output voltage of 15 volts, this voltage was chosen as an approximate middle of the maximum.

Somehow in the comments I saw the question, why a lot of measuring instruments?
Below in the photo is a good example of the simultaneous use of several devices.

The second part of my acquaintance with this power supply was no less interesting to me, and maybe even further than the first. Of course it's a demolition.
Before that, I had already seen the insides in the photo, but it's one thing to see, the second is to feel everything yourself.
The front panel of the device is mounted with decorative screws with an internal hexagon, the rear panel with ordinary screws with a Phillips screwdriver head.

Initially, I took a hex bit and got ready to unscrew the front panel, but in fact, for partial disassembly, it is more convenient to unscrew the back.

We unscrew the four screws securing the back panel and move the bottom towards the back panel.

Here it is, a miracle of engineering thought of Chinese developers. Although practice shows that most of these devices are clones from devices from more famous manufacturers, I will not say anything about this device.
First impression - neat, second - very neat!
The board inside does not take up all the space, there is even free space left, which is good.

There will be quite a lot of photos of the insides further, it may seem to someone that they are superfluous, but to be honest, when preparing the material, I reduced their number as much as I could, but when the thing is assembled well, I want to show it from all sides. Consider this a small weakness of mine :)
And on the other hand, I wanted to show how I would like to see an overview of such a device.

A large number of transformers and chokes are clearly visible.
In general, the device contains 7 hank nodes, I will sign them.
Two input chokes
Electronics power transformer
Isolation transformer for driving high voltage transistors
Power transformer
Inverter output choke
Noise-suppressing output choke.

The assembly is of high quality, I would even say that it is almost at the level of industrial devices.

But of course, there were some small “jambs”, the first thing I noticed was that the wire to the input voltage range switch was dangerously close to the output current measurement shunt. We will deal with it later, but as for the rest of the impression, so far only positive ones, the installation is quite free.
By the way, I measured the drop on the shunt at a current of 5 Amperes, it was exactly 75mV, which gives us a shunt resistance of 15mOhm.

An assembly of four capacitors is installed at the input, 2pcs 100uF and 2pcs 180uF, it is interesting that one pair is made by Capxon, the second by Samxon. I won’t say that this is the height of perfection, but you definitely can’t call these capacitors rootless, it’s quite a middle class.
The choice of such a combination of capacitors is due to the desire of the developers to cram everything into a small case, and the height of the case was the key.
Capacitors for large capacity usually have a large height. I recently tried to pick up capacious and low capacitors like 680x200 Volts, but I haven’t found it yet.
But the developers could well put four at 180, it would only be better.
Capacitors have a real capacitance and in total provide the equivalent of 140uF (100+180)/2.
This capacity is quite sufficient for 160 watts of output power.
By the way, the PSU's own consumption is very small, when the power is turned off and the load is off, it still continues to work for about 10 seconds, powered by capacitors.

Approximately the same combination of manufacturers is used at the output, 2200uF Capxon and 1000uF Samxon.
Upset that the capacitors are designed for 35 volts. In my opinion, this is not enough and it would be more correct to use 50 volt capacitors.
To justify the developers, we can only say that PSUs assembled according to the topology of the monitored one (this is a half-bridge PSU) have less voltage surges and the PSU does not always work at the maximum output voltage.
Also in the photo you can see the noise suppression choke.

Photo of individual nodes.
High-voltage transistors have an insulated case, and in addition, there is an insulating heat-conducting gasket between the case and the transistors, the diode bridge is also screwed to the radiator, although this was not necessary for him.
Special insulators are worn for the output diode assemblies, covering the entire case.
The body of the device is connected to the ground contact of the printed circuit board and, accordingly, to the ground contact of the power connector.
Moreover, when I took it apart further, I saw that they had not forgotten to lay a special washer. And they didn’t even just lay it, but laid it in the right place, between the petal and the body!

Someone will say that there is a washer or an additional insulator. I will answer - any engineer will say that such an approach shows the culture of device production, because if they start saving, then usually from such trifles, then the insulator was considered superfluous, then the washer was not installed, or it was not installed correctly.
Those. Judging even by inspection, I can say that there is production control and it works.

Having unscrewed all the screws holding the elements to the case, I was able to remove the board from the case (it is removed similarly to the bottom).

Now we can move on to an even more detailed examination.
But first, I will remove one of the small "jambs", the wire passing near the shunt.
Above, I wrote that a wire runs near the shunt to the input voltage range selection switch.
In our area, this switch is not only useless, but sometimes harmful, even accidentally switching it will burn out the power supply in a matter of seconds, so I simply remove this switch from the circuit.
This alteration is not suitable for residents of those countries where the mains voltage is 100-120 Volts, they will have to isolate the wire.

BP is being developed very simply. We find where the wires from the switch are connected.

And just solder them :)
Everything, the problem is solved at the global level, no wire - no problem.

The input filter deserves special attention.
I reviewed quite a few different PSUs, but in this case, the input filter is assembled as it should be, you can use it as a sample.

There is a fuse at the input, behind it there is a varistor for protection against increased input voltage and surges. The varistor is rated at 470 volts, this is the standard voltage for varistors in this circuit, there are also 430 volts, but they are less common.
1. You can make a remark, the varistor will not work at a supply voltage of 100-120 Volts and it is more correct to put two of them, but in parallel with high-voltage electrolytes, but we have 230 Volts in the network and the installed option suits us more than completely.
2. An MKP class X2 capacitor is installed at the input, a small two-winding choke is installed nearby.
3. The correct Y1 class capacitors are used in the device, this is what I usually scold when inspecting cheap units. Everything is great here.
4. The power filter uses two two-winding chokes, and a thermistor is also visible to limit the charge current of the capacitors.
For such a power filter, the manufacturer is a big plus, they often use one degree of filtration, here is the correct filter with two double-winding chokes, I have only seen this in branded devices.

Scheme of the input power filter.

1. The inverter uses high-voltage field-effect transistors with a built-in zener diode that protects the gate from voltage surges.
2. A diode bridge is installed at the input, it is designed for 4 Amperes 700 Volts (1000 peak).
3. Output diode assemblies, 16 Amperes 400 Volts, and they are turned on a little unusually, but at the same time correctly. The correctness of the inclusion lies in the fact that they are not paralleled, as is usually the case, and one assembly performs the function of one rectifier diode, the second - of another. This inclusion improves the performance of the diodes, since the diodes located inside the same component are paralleled, on the same chip.
4. They even tried to impregnate the winding knots with varnish, maybe they didn’t impregnate, but they tried to varnish it unambiguously.

Output rectifier and filter circuit. I note the correct inclusion of the noise filter and the current-measuring shunt.

1. PWM controller, well, here is a classic in the form of TL494. The developers went the usual and correct way by using a “hardware” PWM controller that the processor already controls, this provides good accuracy in maintaining voltage and current, as well as a faster response to load changes.
The PWM controller is located on the secondary side and is powered by a separate power supply.
2. All power supply electronics are powered by a separate source, assembled on the basis of TNY274.
I was pleased that the developers used quite common components that can be bought offline, and not Chinese counterparts that can only be bought on eBay or Ali.

I did not draw the circuit diagram, since it would take a completely indecent amount of time, but I drew an approximate block diagram of the device.

There were comments on the printed circuit board. The flux, after mounting some capacitors, is not washed off.
It even surprised me, especially against the backdrop of a very neat assembly. I won't say it's critical, but it's annoying.
Maybe the controller, who monitors compliance with the technical process, went to smoke and at that time my board was being soldered. :(
General photo of the board.

Since the markings of all elements are not visible on the general photo of the board, then I will show several photos of individual nodes, perhaps this will help someone in the repair.
Since field-effect transistors are used in the inverter, and the node itself was originally conceived for bipolar control, the engineers slightly modified the control circuit by adding small transistors. As far as I understand, they are needed for more reliable closing of field-effect transistors.

In this PSU, an isolation transformer is used that differs from the standard one for an ATX type PSU (although the circuit is partially similar). The standard BJT transformer contains more windings, two primary and three secondary, but here it is a pure isolation transformer.
The primary winding is connected to a bridge of four small transistors controlled by the TL494. The transformer has two output windings to drive the top and bottom high voltage transistors.
All this is due to the fact that field-effect transistors are used in the inverter, and this also facilitates the operation of the inverter in a wide range of PWM filling up to complete shutdown.

The TL494 "strapping" unit (right) and some elements of the high-voltage circuit snubber (right).

The output secondary power unit (top) and the signal amplifier unit from the shunt.
The internal electronics power supply supplies two voltages. One feeds the PWM controller, the second - the control and indication electronics.

Oddly enough, but the manufacturer varnished this assembly, I had to wash the varnish off the microcircuit to find out what they used here.
In this case, it is a banal LM358. Its characteristics are far from ideal, but quite sufficient for a specific application, it can be replaced, but I do not think that this will improve anything.

After the inspection, I washed the flux off the PCB a little and covered it with a layer of varnish.
Partly to restore the varnish where I washed it off, and just for general additional protection.

With the inspection of the power board finished, let's move on to the control board.
It is located on the front panel, the flux is also partially not washed off (the controller apparently often left for a smoke, it's time to quit), but in this place it is not critical.

We unscrew the three screws that screw the control board to the front panel.

Yes ... but the indicator could have been put more evenly. I noticed this right away and therefore partly disassembled the entire structure in order to align it. Fortunately, access to the indicator is simple, four screws on the front panel and three screws for fixing the printed circuit board.
By and large, the majority most likely will not notice this, and this definitely does not affect the operation and characteristics of the PSU in any way, but as they say, “the sediment remains”.
There were no more comments, everything seems to be neat.

1. An 8-bit microcontroller is used as a "brain".
2. He controls the indication through a pair of registers, which serve to amplify the current and expand the number of pins.
3. All this “disgrace” is powered by a 3.3 Volt linear stabilizer.
4. Another operational amplifier is installed on this board, and also LM358.

A thermal sensor was also seen on the board. Judging by the instructions, the device has protection against overheating, but in normal operation, I did not succeed in overheating it.

The front panel was examined, nothing more interesting was found on it :)
I remembered about the back panel when I was about to twist everything back.
There are also some details on the back panel :)
But there is also no one necessary and useful part, which for some reason was forgotten, the output fuse. If you connect the battery in reverse polarity to the power supply, then at least the output wires will burn out, it is better to add a fuse, the current is 6-7 Amperes.

A small printed circuit board is installed directly on the output terminals, on which one of the output capacitors is located.
The second printed circuit board is soldered to the power switch contacts. It is noteworthy that not only did they install a separate small board, but the switch also breaks both network wires, which is correct, especially for switching power supplies.

At the same time, I measured the real capacitance of the input filter capacitors.
Don't cheat, everything matches. Above, I gave a calculation why it should be 140 uF, I will repeat it here - 100 uF + 180 uF = 280 uF on capacitors connected in parallel.
Since the capacitors are 200 volts, they are also connected in series, which gives 280/2 = 140 microfarads.

After assembling all this, I decided to check the heating of the elements inside the power supply.
Since I had already measured the rest of the parameters, there were much fewer “participants” in the test.
power unit
Electronic load
Non-contact thermometer
Pen and paper.

The test lasted 1 hour 40 minutes. The temperature was checked at intervals of 20 minutes and a current multiple of 1.25 Amperes.
At the end there was an additional 20 minute run at maximum current and voltage.

All measurement results were summarized in a table.
Let the slightly high initial temperature of the diodes not surprise you, the fact is that the PSU was lying on the table, and above it was a table lamp with a halogen, which warmed up this side of the case a little.
In general, the results are not bad, but an additional run at maximum current showed that at high air temperatures the transformer may overheat. for example, if at 25 degrees it is 88, then at 35 it will already be 98, which is close to critical. I would not recommend running the power supply at maximum power for a long time at high temperatures.
You can slightly improve the situation by laying a piece of heat-conducting rubber between the bottom and the transformer, but pushing the bottom in this state will be very problematic.
All these problems are related to the fact that the PSU has passive cooling, as they say - a double-edged sword.
The temperature of the remaining nodes was within acceptable limits. The case under maximum load warmed up to about 55 degrees, you can hold it in your hands, but it's unpleasant.
At the same time, at the end, I measured the PWM temperature of the electronics power controller (TNY274), it was 67 degrees, which is quite excellent.

As one of the applications, I decided to charge the battery, it is clear that it is possible to use a laboratory PSU as a charger, although it is somehow wrong :)
I connected the battery and ...., received an output overvoltage protection. The fact is that 10 volts were set at the output, and there were noticeably more on the battery and the PSU considered this an emergency, I didn’t even turn on the output.
In order to get out of this error, you need to disconnect the battery, flip the current / voltage selection toggle switch and set the output voltage to be greater than the battery voltage.

That's it, the process has begun, the charge current is set to 1 Ampere, the PSU is operating in current stabilization mode.
By the way, I tried to short the terminals (without a battery, of course) when the output is on, a quiet click and the PSU goes into current stabilization mode.

If you raise the current higher, then the voltage at the battery terminals rises to the set threshold (the battery is old) and the PSU goes into voltage stabilization mode.
You can press the control lock button and leave the battery to charge.

A small comment about the features of management.
For about a week and a half, I used this power supply in normal mode, so I can fully describe the sensations of using this device.
Power switch - convenient if the PSU is on the table, but inconvenient if it is on the shelf.
Output terminals - especially unprincipled, turned on and forgot.
Heating - during normal operation as a feeder for various devices, the heating was small, the largest was only during tests.
Indicator - in the photo it looks worse than in real life, LED indication is convenient for better readability, although I would add a light filter.
Management, well, this is generally a big topic, I'll try to describe it.
At first, the control and indication logic was not very familiar to me, the power supply unit has only two indicators, but for good you need four or five (the fifth one to display power).
Adjustment is both convenient and inconvenient.
It is convenient because in reality you most often adjust only one parameter and one encoder is enough, and switching between modes does not cause problems.
It is inconvenient that if the PSU has left the control mode, then to return it is necessary to make one extra click with the encoder (transfer to the display mode of the set parameter), the second click adjusts.
Well, for the time of adjustment, both indicators go into the display mode of the set value. but there's nothing to be done, the costs of minimalism.
But the most inconvenient thing was that after switching to the output parameter display mode and trying to change the parameters again, the PSU turns on the control mode with a minimum discrete.
For example, I adjusted tenths of a volt, released the handle, the PSU switched to normal mode, and if I later decided to increase / decrease, then I will adjust the hundredths, or I need to click on the encoder. It annoyed me, although you can get used to it. I think the developers could well make the memory of the last mode of operation, it would be more convenient.

So summary.
pros
Pretty good build quality. Well, maybe with the exception of little things like a bad flush of the flux and a crookedly installed indicator, but this does not affect either the reliability or the quality of work.
General thoughtful design.
Quality Components
Good circuitry
Very low ripple
The PSU provides excellent performance over the entire range of output voltages and currents
One of the few PSUs where the manufacturer did not save, maybe almost did not save :)

Minuses
Power switch on the back
No output fuse
There are small flaws in the assembly, described in the pros.
Some inconvenience of management, perhaps a matter of habit.
Thin output wires included, change unambiguously.
A large capacitance at the output, because of this, it is not recommended to connect the element under test to the power supply unit if it has voltage applied to the output (for example, low-power LEDs, etc.), but this is a disadvantage of almost all switching power supplies. first you need to connect the load and only then turn on the voltage supply to the output.

My opinion. A good solid power supply with good technical characteristics.
Of course, you can scold for the flux, etc., but these are trifles against the background of the fact that the power supply is assembled really correctly. The level of output ripple surprised me very pleasantly, I didn't expect it.
Also current and voltage measurement provides good accuracy. For voltage, there are small remarks at the edges of the range, for current only at the beginning, but as for me, the accuracy for a device of this class is quite good.
In general, I liked the PSU, a really interesting and high-quality power supply for a radio amateur. Of course, I can find flaws anywhere, but here the proportion of advantages and disadvantages clearly outweighs the advantages.
In general, that rare case .... when they almost didn’t mess up and made a device with characteristics better than those declared.

I hope that the review was useful and will help you make the right choice.
If you have questions, add-ons will be happy to answer or try some other tests.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

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Starting from 2015 there were several reviews of the GOPHERTC CPS3205 switching power supplies on the site.
XPM was the first to show interest in the topic of these power supplies, starting with. Kirich described the essence in great detail, appearance and the rich inner world of the model.
Other authors eventually posted material on the models CPS-3205C, CPS-3205 II.
Let's hope someone investigates and shares their impressions of the CPS-3205L.
I want to insert my 5 kopecks and add some information about most of the models and CPS-3205 II in particular.
I invite those interested under cat.
Gopher Technology produces a wide range of different power supplies, including the CPS 3205 series in various modifications. In the comments to reviews on this topic, the question is often found: “How do modifications differ from each other?”.
Having studied the manufacturer's website, I summarized the material posted there.

I left some parameters in the table not translated in the way that I can’t interpret Google translation.
However, according to the available information, it is already possible to get an idea of ​​​​the differences and approach the choice of a power supply unit in more detail.
It can be assumed that the first version was CPS3205, then CPS3205L - these are almost the same PSUs. The only difference is that the first one has a button and the Lock function that blocks the controls after setting the desired voltage and current from accidental changes, while the second one has replaced this function with a wattmeter function.
The next modification, it seems to me, was the CPS3205C model. Here they returned the function of locking controls (Lock), slightly expanded the operating voltage range, added an active FPC (the most expensive model) and already installed an ammeter on four segments.
In the CPS3205 II model, the active FPC was removed, significantly reducing the cost of the PSU, and no less significantly improved the accuracy of the voltmeter and ammeter, as well as seriously reduced the output ripple.
Information on the CPS3205E was not found on the manufacturer's website.
Separately, I want to dwell on the accuracy of measuring voltage and current for the above models.
Recording ≤ 0.3% + 1digit is uninformative for most people, and besides, you need to take into account the bit depth of measuring instruments. So in models CPS3205, CPS3205L, the ammeter is three-digit, and in CPS3205C it is four-digit, and with the same 0.3%, the error will be different.
Therefore, for clarity, I made comparative calculations that show the difference in the models in terms of measurement accuracy:

As you can see, the measurement accuracy depends on the inherent capabilities (I mean 0.1 or 0.3%) and the bit depth of the indicator. 1digit means one low digit of the indicator. In the case of 3205 it is 0.01, and in the case of 3205C or 3205II it is 0.001.
From the given data and calculations, it follows that the CPS3205II has the best declared accuracy of voltage and current measurements.
The above information is indirectly related to the topic of the review, but it may be useful to someone. Personally, I was interested to know what is the difference between the models.
Now about the culprit of the review. This is the CPS3205II model, which was covered on the pages of myskг.ru at the beginning of this year by comrade vbudennyj. Let's see if nothing has changed since then in this PSU and plus a small addition in the form of current measurements and a pair of oscillograms.
The PSU comes in a traditionally simple cardboard box with a typical CPS3205 label.



Inside the box, the PSU is fixed with inserts made of porous material and tightly packed cords.

This time, the aluminum case of the power supply is gray.
Instructions were hidden at the very bottom of the box.

Photo instructions hid under the spoiler.

Additional Information





Included with the PSU, as expected, there are two cords - network and for connecting the load. The power cord 153 cm long seems a little harsh to me, but the benefit is suitable from any computer and you can pick it up.

In terms of the cord for connecting the load (75 cm), despite the publication of reviews, nothing has changed. This cord still leaves much to be desired. Here are the crocodiles and plugs of good quality, and the cord is hard and not soldered to the crocodiles and plugs at all - they clamped it with a screw and crimped it on the crocodiles. I'll look for a better cord.







As already mentioned, this time the ribbed body of the PSU is gray. Thus, the consumer has a choice: blue or gray PSU. Ribbed part of the body ( top part and side walls) is made of aluminum profile and is one large radiator.

Legs were placed on the bottom. Nothing has changed here - the legs are hard and glide a little on the table, but leave no traces.

The rear wall is attached to the case with four screws for a Phillips screwdriver. There is a power supply on / off button, a network cable socket, a 110/230 volt mains voltage switch, and output voltage terminals. The positions of the power switch button are marked with the numbers 0 and 1. Above the output terminals, they did not forget to put the inscription Output, and the terminals themselves, in addition to color marking, are marked with signs - and +.



The manufacturer pleased with the terminals - they give the impression of solid components. The nut bushings are made of an alloy with a yellowish tinge. Already the presence of the bushings themselves gives hope for a long service life of the nuts.





The location of the output terminals at the back at first glance is disappointing, but as the disassembly showed, this step is justified and I will explain why later.
With switching, everything is very clear and you can go to the controls and display information on the front panel of the PSU. There is much more interesting here.

The front panel is also made of aluminum and has a relief. The sticker is pasted into the recess. I think that if they wanted to save money, they would not bother with the relief of the front panel, and with hexagon screws too. In other words, the PSU has an attractive appearance.
The correct step can be called the installation of four-digit indicators of the voltmeter and ammeter. They were signed, and LEDs were placed next to them, showing in which mode the power source operates: CV - voltage stabilization and CC - current stabilization (limitation). To the right is a switch for setting voltage and current. Adjustment of their values ​​is carried out by the encoder handle.
The encoder was used here due to the fact that the PSU design allows you to set each of the four digits of the volt / ammeter. The adjustment starts from the lowest digit and in order not to spend a lot of time setting, for example, 25 volts, the desired digit is selected with the encoder button and the corresponding value is set.
They also did not save on the encoder handle - they were made of aluminum, there is a knurling and the handle is fastened with a hexagon screw.

The Lock button will allow you not to burn the device connected to the PSU during testing, adjustment or its operation. It blocks the encoder and, as if in the excitement of a hobby / work, you accidentally screwed up the knob, the voltage and current at the output will not change. Useful feature, thrifty).
The last On / Off button has a dual purpose - during operation it can be turned off and the power supply to the PSU output can be turned on again, as well as the presence or absence of voltage at the PSU output can be programmed immediately after it is turned on. Again, a useful feature - you never know how the PSU behaves when turned on? May crackle or release white smoke of surrender with spectacular destruction of the connected device to the output. So not an extra precaution and foresight of engineers.
What is the reason for disconnecting / connecting the voltage at the PSU output during operation? The fact is that it will not be possible to immediately turn off the voltage at the output with a mains voltage switch, which is due to the capacitive capacitors used in the circuit of this power source. Being turned off by the mains switch, the unit keeps voltage at idle for another ten seconds. As an output, the physical disconnection of wires from the power supply to the load, but this is inconvenient. So we found a convenient and quick solution in the form of a function to turn off / turn on the voltage at the output with the On / Off button.
It is easy to manage these two functions: short press to turn off / turn on the output voltage, long-term activation of the appearance / non-appearance of voltage at the output immediately after switching on.

The maximum voltage at the PSU output is 32.3 volts.

The voltmeter function is still in its place: with the On / Off button, turn off the output voltage and connect a current source to the crocodiles. A standard voltmeter will show the voltage on it.

When measuring voltages at the output, the PSU showed excellent results at idle.











Under a load of 1, 3, 5 amperes, the results are also on top.



















In the overwhelming majority of cases, the readings of the ammeters differed only because of the different capacity of the instruments.
After the experiments, I have no reason to doubt the stability of the voltage, the output current and the accuracy of the readings.
Most of the time it took me to measure the pulsations. In this PSU model, they are declared at the level of 10 mV. My oscilloscope is not super modern, but I still tried to fix them under load for more than two hours. I tuned in as best I could and doubts about my oscilloscope overcame me. The maximum that I was able to fix with a 1: 1 probe, 20 mV per division and a closed oscilloscope input is a slight change in the beam.

Therefore, the PSU was given to a colleague who has a modern digital oscilloscope.

The results of pulsation measurements turned out to be ambiguous.
Without load, over the entire voltage range, the ripple at the PSU output was in the region of 7 mV.

Under load, the picture seems to be different.
A voltage of 0.96 volts at a current of 5 amperes showed ripples in the region of 20 millivolts.

10 volts at a current of 2.8 amperes - 15.2 millivolts.

20 volts at a current of 3.3 amperes - about 18 millivolts.

30 volts at a current of 4.4 amperes - about 20 millivolts.

The ripple values ​​fluctuate around the given values ​​over the entire range of voltages and currents. For some reason, they turned out to be higher than stated, but I don’t think that I will “launch shuttles” - after all, we are talking about millivolts and for the overwhelming range of tasks this can be neglected, although the question remains.
Of course, it was interesting to look inside the PSU. I unscrewed the back panel, although it is better to start from the front one, as it is connected to the power supply board with only one cable. The bottom comes out on the guides.



The power supply board is inserted into the guides in the case profile and is already rigidly fastened with screws that press the transistors, diode bridge, dual diodes to the case to remove heat from them. It turns out that the board is upside down - bottom side up, and circuit components down. There is nothing to warm up on the board, and the heat from the parts screwed to the radiator / case is well removed, so this arrangement does not threaten anything in terms of heating. These fuel components are attached to the case through thermal pads.



Inside, as one of my comrades says, everything is so neat and beautiful that you can even put it in a sideboard)).

Already in this photo you can see both the fuse and the ideologically correct capacitors X2 and Y1.
On closer inspection, we see a thermistor to reduce current when charging capacitors after switching on and a varistor to provide overvoltage protection. It would be better to put some heat shrink on it.



The series-connected input capacitors are made by SAMXON and are rated at 270 microfarads at 200 volts.

N-channel MOSFETs.
Diode bridge (aka RS407 or KBL407)

Ultra Fast Dual Diodes
The output capacitor is 2200 microfarads at 35 volts and at the output terminals there is another one at 470 microfarads * 35 volts.

The board was washed from the flux, apparently the smoking inspectors of the Quality Control Department were fired), which is good for consumers.

But then they were hired again) - the control board was washed with less zeal (traces of flux in the places of manual soldering of indicators, cable, LEDs), but this did not affect the operation of the device.



In the course of studying the front panel and the control board, it became clear that there was simply nowhere to place the output terminals in front and either use a different case or put it on the back panel, which the designers did.
For order, I will list the most prominent components:
The microcontroller controls everything here.
Data from it comes to the indicators through registers.
3.3 volt voltage regulator.
The last case is again the LM358 opamp.
Having completed the study of the block, I will say that it is well made and with decent characteristics. Surely it will not satisfy everyone at the global level, but for a large number of those who are initiated into wires, a soldering iron and other paraphernalia, it will definitely be useful, and it will also not make you think about its replacement due to poor quality.
Personally, I will now use it more often than linear (heavy, current only up to 3 amperes, noisy (transformer + cooler), but according to the rules I note:
cons - the cord for connecting the load and pulsation is higher than stated;
pluses - a wide range of output voltage and current, small dimensions, multi-digit indicators, measurement accuracy, parameter stability, voltage stabilization, current limiting, control blocking and output shutdown.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I plan to buy +25 Add to favorites Liked the review +44 +71

Hello. Today we are going to review the Gophert CPS-3205C Regulated Power Supply. This power supply regulates the output voltage from 0 to 32 Volts, as well as the current from 0 to 5 Amps. Model with the letter "C" - has an active PFC on board. What it is, and how it differs from other Gophert models, you will find out today. Welcome under cat.

The order was placed on May 27th. On the same day, the store sent the goods, and already on June 7 I took it from the post office:

So far this year I have a record for the speed of delivery.

The package contained a cardboard box wrapped in polyethylene foam:

What will we find when we open it?

English instruction:

Instruction

Cord for connecting to the network:

An ordinary computer cord with an "Orthodox" plug.

Cord to connect to the power supply output:

On one side of which are "crocodiles", and on the other - "bananas" for connecting to the PSU terminals:

But looking at this cord, I began to have vague doubts ... As well as a feeling of pity for the short and dead cord, which they were going to load with five amperes ... And having stopped unpacking, I started to correct the situation.

We remove the insulation from the "crocodiles" and see ...

... what is better not to see. What would then in a dream not to suffer from nightmares.

And now we take a normal wire:

And we make a normal cord. The desired length, and with soldered "crocodiles" and "bananas":

Now you can safely proceed to further unpacking.

But first, let's look at the specifications of the CE series power supplies. And specifically Gophert CPS-3205C:

And now we take it out of the box:

The switching power supply has a compact finned aluminum housing.

On the underside of which are four rubber feet:

The power switch, power cord connector and output terminals are located on the back of the case:

With a homemade cord of normal length, the presence of terminals at the back is not a hindrance. Inserted - and forgot.

On the front are two four-digit indicators. Voltage and current. As well as a voltage or current adjustment switch, since we have only one regulator knob and it is located to the right of the switch. We put the switch in position V - we regulate the voltage with it, and, accordingly, in position A - we regulate the current:

To the right of the indicators are 2 LEDs. Green (CV) - voltage stabilization mode and red (CC) - current stabilization mode.

Below the controller are two buttons:

"LOCK" - allows you to block your settings from accidentally rotating the knob or pressing the on / off button. At the same time, the red LED next to the button lights up. A very useful feature.

"ON / OFF" - the button for turning on / off the Gophert CPS-3205C output.

I'll go into a bit more detail about this below. In the meantime, before turning it on, let's analyze the power supply and see how it differs from other models.

To do this, unscrew the four screws on the back of the PSU and slide out the bottom cover:

And here is the filling of the power supply. I will focus on this photo:

Look at the photo. Above, to the right of the two capacitors, you can see the yellow transformer, which is absent in models without the letter "C". They have four input capacitors in this place. And in our case, a mysterious active PFC lurks here.)))

How is this abbreviation deciphered? Very simple. PFC (Power Factor Correction) - literal translation - power factor correction. Or, as they say, reactive power compensation. What is it?

Classical rectification circuit AC voltage consists of a diode bridge and smoothing capacitors. The charge current of these capacitors is pulsed. Duration, approximately 3 ms. And so the current is large. Loading the power supply with a load of 100 watts, at a voltage of 220 volts, the current will be 1 ampere. And the impulse current will be four times greater. Accordingly, networks must be designed for high currents. Especially if there are many such sources. Let's not talk about production. And hardly anyone at home has many such sources. And if we also take into account that we pay only for active energy, then you probably wondered, why then do we need this PFC at all?

The main application of PFC is to reduce the impulsivity of the consumed current. The PFC is embedded between the diode bridge and the smoothing capacitors. It limits the current in amplitude and stretches in time. Active PFC is a step up converter that stabilizes the voltage across the smoothing capacitors at a level above the mains voltage and brings the current waveform closer to that of a resistive load. At the same time, PFC provides good filtering of interference from the mains. And as a result, the amount of RF interference at the output is greatly reduced. The range of input voltages is expanding. Even at low voltage, the PFC will stabilize the voltage across the smoothing capacitors. At the same time, the capacitance of the smoothing capacitors themselves can be halved, which is what we are seeing here, in comparison with the power supply model without the letter “C”. The only disadvantage of active PFC is the increased cost of the power supply.

It is very strange to me that the attached wires for the PSU output are so “dead”, because normal wires are used inside:

Capacitor at the output - has a smaller capacitance than in other Gopherts:

Input diode bridge:

Current sense shunt:

PWM controller:

And a few close-up shots of the board:

It's time to assemble the power supply and plug it into the network.

After turning on the switch on the rear side - the output voltage - is turned off:

It's convenient for me. First, you can check the settings and, if necessary, adjust them, and then briefly press the ON / OFF button to apply voltage to the output.

If this does not suit someone, then we hold down the “ON / OFF” button for more than two seconds and on the right indicator we will see the inscription “dOF”:

This means that after the PSU is connected to the network, there will be no voltage at the output.

By pressing and holding this button again, we will see the inscription “dON”:

Now, after turning on the network, voltage will immediately appear at the output of the PSU.

The maximum output voltage that can be set on the source:

At first, this regulator was very unusual for me. But then I realized that everything was done quite conveniently. By pressing the encoder, and this is precisely the incremental encoder, we can sequentially switch the bits of the indicator, which allows you to quickly set the required value.

Check the voltage at the output of the power supply. I checked the most common for me, as well as the maximum voltage:

Not bad.

Now let's check the current.

Let's load the output of the power supply with a car compressor, which does not have enough current of 5 A for full operation.

First, let's turn on the LED lamp built into the compressor. The current consumed by it will be displayed on the right indicator:

We check:

I didn't have a multimeter handy that could measure current. So I used clamp meters:

We turn on the compressor. The power supply immediately goes into current limiting mode:

The result is good.

If desired, the power supply can be easily calibrated. There is a video on Youtube about Gophert CPS-3205C calibration:

When the load increases, the signal shape at the closed input of the oscilloscope changes:

Let's play a little more.))

Let's connect the computer cooler to the power supply:

We see that it consumes 0.094A.

Let's reduce the current from the output of the power supply below this figure:

The red "CC" LED lights up and the power supply switches from voltage stabilization mode to current stabilization mode.

Summing up, we can say that the switching power supply is made with high quality, it does its job well.

The store sends new version Gophert CPS-3205C:

The disadvantages include the complete output cord, which is better to throw out immediately, leaving, however, “crocodiles” and “bananas”, about which I can’t say anything bad.

Thank you for your attention.

Charger Pendant-305 (one of two). It was possible to try to restore, but I took it as a reason to update the battery charger. And I began to watch something interesting in the category up to 3 tr.

Unfortunately, the options found were not particularly inspiring. Then he also assessed that this second pendant was quite often used not to charge car batteries, but as a 12V power supply. Therefore, I decided to do the opposite: I chose a power supply (necessarily regulated at least up to 20V), which can (if desired) be used to charge the battery (that is, with CC / CV modes).

The choice fell on the Chinese Gophert CPS-3205 II, which met the budget with a margin:

As follows from the model index, the maximum voltage is 32V, the current is 5A.

A fairly well-known BP in certain circles. I will consider it from a subjective point of view. Objectively, I know his shortcomings, that he is hardly drawn to the role of "laboratory" (as they sometimes try to call him). And if we were talking about a really "laboratory" desktop PSU, then I would rather choose something like the Korad KA3005D. But I have other requirements.

It is important that this PSU is suitable for carrying and using in garage conditions. It is lightweight and not very bulky. Even against the background of the same Coulomb-305, which is presented on the right:

This PSU has passive cooling and a relatively sealed case, which is also important for such operation.

The outputs and the switch are located on the rear panel, which is not very convenient. There is also a choice of input voltage (230/110V).

But for my purposes it doesn't matter.

Outputs "hybrid": under a nut and under "bananas".

The package bundle of the PSU is meager: a cord for connecting to an outlet (the usual familiar "computer", which is convenient for replacement) and wires for connecting the load. The wires for the load are made disgustingly, everyone mentions this more than once. And this is absolutely true. The wires are not only thin, but also the connections in the "crocodiles" and in the "bananas" are very poor quality. It’s scary to apply more than 1-2A through such wires, they start to heat up and even melt. And, of course, the voltage drop at such currents is large (up to several volts).

But even if you leave the regular "bananas" and "crocodiles", but take the wire itself better and make a normal connection, then it turns out to be quite a good option. What I made using some kind of improvised audio cable (section 1.5 mm 2):

On the front panel of the PSU there is a voltmeter and an ammeter. Both are four-digit, but fixed-point. The voltmeter works even when the output current is off - it shows the voltage at the output (handy if a battery is connected). The voltmeter is quite accurate, the ammeter has an error in the lower (mA) discharge. There is the possibility of software calibration, you must then try to carry out.

There is a rear switch from the control, and in front there are two buttons, one switch, one encoder (it can be turned and pressed).

The ON/OFF button is used to turn on/off the output current (a long press activates/deactivates the PSU autostart when it is turned on). LOCK is used to lock the controls (a long press in lock mode also clears the voltmeter and ammeter readings).

The buttons are pressed quite hard, and the PSU has slippery feet. Therefore, you have to keep the case from slipping when you press the buttons.

The V/A switch sets the value to be changed. Turning the encoder changes the selected digit, pressing the encoder shifts the digit selection to the left (cyclically). The selected digit is highlighted (you can see it in the photo above - the number 0 at the voltage setting). When you press the encoder knob, you also need to hold the case from slipping.

At the moment of setting, the current readings of the voltmeter and ammeter are replaced by the voltage and current limit settings, respectively.

If the encoder stops turning, the setting disappears rather quickly (voltmeter and ammeter readings are displayed). The selected category is saved, but also not very long. Then it automatically resets to the right position.

In general, management is so-so, for an amateur. Personally, it’s not very convenient for me, okay, at least not so often you need to change the settings. It would be better, of course, to have four twists (two "coarse" and two "fine"). But there is not even a place for them to be placed here.

Unfortunately, there are no settings profiles. But the current settings are saved when the PSU is completely de-energized. Even so.

The PSU can operate in CC (stabilization-current limiting) and CV (stabilization-voltage limiting) modes. The current mode is shown by an indicator.

The CC mode is indicated by a red LED next to the corresponding inscription:

This means that the output current has approached the set limit (to which it is limited), and the voltage drops below the set value.

The CV mode is indicated by a green LED next to the corresponding inscription:

This means that the current is less than the set limit, and the voltage corresponds to the set value.

If we consider the PSU from the point of view of power, then we can simply say that CV is the normal mode of operation, and CC is the "overload" mode.

The presence of CC / CV modes allows you to use the PSU to charge some types of batteries. For example, the same lead-acid or lithium. But this is a separate issue.

In my copy, the current is maintained not quite accurately (does not correspond to the set and displayed by units, sometimes tens of mA). But, I repeat, there is the possibility of software calibration. I plan to do it. Yes, and for my tasks such an error is quite enough.

In general, the PSU meets my expectations, it performs its functions. Now if only the reliability did not disappoint.

▌Backstory
Some time ago, representatives of the GearBest store contacted me and clearly began to hint at their PR. Well, I looked at what they have there. All sorts of flashlights, I asked for a flashlight for the test, wrote a post about it in my blog ... But this was not enough for them and they wanted to get here. And what to take for review here? I don’t need a multimeter, I don’t need soldering irons that they sold there either. Some boards for arduino - similarly. In general, I told them for a long time that they were not my subject. Until they offer to find something to review, they will add it to their store. I rummaged through aliexpress and found a power supply that I would like to feel and drag into my workshop. And now they have it in their catalog, and they sent me a copy to be torn to pieces.

Power supply GOPHERT CPS-3205

▌Delivery and packaging
He arrived in a nondescript gray box. On top was a shell of pneumocylinders. But not a simple pimple, but a kind of casing that is inflated and sealed immediately before shipping. Burst one block and the whole one will be blown away :) Inside there was a power supply, a network cable and crocodiles with wires. The network cable is normal, computer, like from an ATX unit.

Crocodiles look like nothing, check out deshman shit. At least you need to solder, at least. Because they are crimped out of hand badly and the plugs themselves are dumb. But the wiring is soft (because it is thin as a hair) and will fit somewhere else, the crocodiles are not entirely shameful, and we can solder it to a normal wire ourselves.



The power supply itself. A small such bar is ribbed.

▌Features
The manufacturer promises us:

  • Supply voltage 198 – 264Vac
  • Voltage frequency 45 – 65HZ
  • Output voltage 0 - 32V
  • Output current 0 - 5A
  • Current consumption under load (220Vac) ≤1.4A
  • Current consumption without load (220Vac) ≤80mA
  • Voltmeter accuracy ≤ 0.3% + 1 digits
  • Ammeter accuracy ≤ 0.3% + 2 digit

Voltage source

  • Adjustment error (0-100% load) ≤ 30mV
  • Noise (peak-to-peak) ≤ 30mV
  • Noise (r.m.s) ≤ 3mV
  • Setting accuracy ≤ 0.3% + 10mV
  • Settling speed (50%-100% load change) ≤ 1.0ms

Current source

  • Adjustment error (90%-10% of voltage setting) ≤ 50mA
  • Noise (peak-to-peak) ≤ 30mAp-p
  • Setting accuracy ≤ 0.3% + 20mA

Dimensions 120×55×168mm
Weight 0.85KG

▌Exterior
Solid aluminum body. Very tightly knitted, it is pleasant to take in hands. Although the edges of the panel would be a little polished, otherwise they are cut after stamping. The block size is 120mm wide, 55mm high and 170mm long, or if with sockets, then 180mm. Weighing about a kilogram. Impulsive, there is nothing heavy in it.

On the muzzle there are two indicators of the current values ​​of current and voltage. Seven-segment. Voltage or current setting selection switch. Push encoder and two buttons LOCK and ON-OFF.

On the back there is a mains socket, a supply voltage selector, a mechanical switch and output sockets.

▌Intestines

It opens easily, unscrew the screws on the covers, then you can move the bottom to the side and roll the board out of the grooves.

Inside, everything is very neat, even. Everything is washed, the soldering is of high quality. There are only two "forgotten" parts of the capacitor. Which, in fact, are not forgotten. But more about them later...

At the input there is a fuse soldered into the board. Then a varistor, and an X capacitor. X conder is placed between the phases and it dampens symmetrical interference in common mode. Next comes the Y capacitor. It goes from phase to zero. Suppresses asymmetric differential noise. Moreover, Y capacitors are much more responsible than X. This is due to the fact that they should not break through in any way. Otherwise, the phase will get on the case, and this is cherevoto. Therefore, they have an elephant stock in terms of breakdown voltage and mechanical strength, and the operating voltage is indicated on the case, and not the maximum.

Then a dual choke, for each line:

And then comes the NTC 5D-9 thermistor. This is thermal resistance.

NTC - means negative temperature coefficient (Negative Temp Coeff.) That is, the hotter it is, the lower its resistance. Why is it here? And to limit the current. We have two hefty Conders after the diode bridge. And when turned on, they will work like a short circuit, which means that such a current will blow through the bridge and inductor until they are charged. This is where the thermistor will help us. At first it is cold and its resistance is high, but while the conduits are being charged, it will warm up, reach the operating temperature and “self-eliminate” from the circuit.

All this goes to the high-voltage diode bridge.

Which gives us a permanent. There are also two 270uF 200V input conduits, in series, which gives 135uF, and earlier, in the previous revision of this power supply, there were a couple in parallel 100uF and 180uF, which gave a total capacitance of 140uF. Conders are manufactured by Samxon, such an average worker is not a rootless non-name.

The inverter circuit itself is typical on the TL494L. The primary winding of the transformer is tied at one end between the capacitors, and the other end twitches to plus and minus through a half-bridge circuit on two F13NK50Z

The transistors themselves are controlled through an isolation transformer. Here his TLka pulls through a small bridge, on these four transistors in front of him. And on the secondary, it has two windings on the upper and lower sides of the power half-bridge.

So TL494 is completely galvanically isolated from the high side. This is good.

The secondary goes to a couple of diodes, which are connected in parallel and through a current-measuring shunt and two chokes to the street.

Chokes:

Immediately a couple of output capacitors perched. At 680uF and 2200uF both at 35 volts. And we have a 32 volt unit. Tick ​​to tick. Could and 30% margin withstand.

A small power supply is responsible for feeding the brain. It is made on TNY274. Nearby is its transformer and feedback optocoupler.

The voltage from the shunt amplifies the LM358, the accuracy of the amp is not so hot, but the power supply does not pull on precision either. Not in that price range.

Brains are made on STM8S105K4T6. And through the shift registers HC595 they pull the indicator, but the encoder with buttons listens. Actually, this board does not represent anything interesting without firmware, and the firmware is blocked. But, which is nice, a programming interface has been introduced and, if you wish, you can try to write your own firmware without unnecessary gestures.

The brains control the TL494 by generating PWM voltages CV (voltage command) and CC (current command) which, after filtering on the active filter on the LM358, are fed to the 2nd and 15th leg of the TL494, where the error comparators are located.

The outputs of the comparators through the OR circuit go to the main error comparator, which already determines the operation of the entire stabilizer. While there is no error signal from it, i.e. excess on one or another channel TL494 pulls PWM and drives energy into the coil.

Well, then everything is simple. On the comparator where the setting voltage CV comes to the second input, the output voltage from the PSU is supplied. And if our output voltage is lower than CV, then TL jerks with PWM. As soon as it caught up - everything, they arrived, it stops pumping the coil with energy. And so it maintains tension.

The second comparator does the same, but the voltage from the current shunt comes to it and is compared with the reference voltage CC. As a result, it follows the current. And while there is no excess current, it also pumps.

Together, both channels provide voltage and current limitation. Which is exactly what we need.

▌Interface
We turn on the power supply with a knife switch on the ass and it immediately lights up the indication, delighting us with the fact that it is turned on, but nothing is being output

The disgusting brightness and readability of the indicators immediately catches the eye. If direct light from the lamp hits the muzzle, then it is very difficult to see what is burning there. The indicator desperately lacks brightness and contrast. Some kind of light filter is needed to hide the non-burning segments, otherwise they are very striking. There are no options here - you need to refine it or hide it in some dark dark corner of the table, where the light never falls.

Moreover, two levels of brightness are accepted here - the edited discharge is on at full strength, and the current value is on the glow floor.

I made a light filter right there from improvised garbage. I took a thin transparent plastic, from some kind of packaging. I cut a rectangle out of it and painted over it on both sides with a red permanent marker for CDs. Taking into account the fact that the film of the front panel is matte, these strokes are not visible at all and it turned out to be very even nothing.

The readability of the indicators has increased dramatically simply.

Management is quite convenient. With the switch, we choose what we will change - voltage or current. The encoder changes the value. One click, one tick. And pressing the encoder switches the bit that we are changing. Naturally transfers work as well as it is necessary. So you can change the value in one movement, for example, of the current, even in hundredths, even in tenths, even in whole shares. It would be more convenient only two twists for current and voltage separately.

The LOCK key locks out setting changes by lighting the lock indicator.
There are also two indicators showing what mode the power supply is currently in - in current source or voltage source mode. Those. on which of the settings he rested.

The ON-OFF key turns on and off the voltage supply to the output. Those. can be turned off, for example. Make the necessary settings for current and voltage, and then turn it on. Comfortable. Also, if you hold the ON-OFF key, then the starting value is switched. That is, what state to go when the power is turned on. ON or OFF.

▌Test

First, I measured the voltages supplied by the power supply. Measured at idle. Because I don’t have any reference device, then I measured everything that was. BP-UST is what was installed. BP-ISM - what the BP itself measured with its meter :) It turned out like this.

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