Laying electrical wiring in a wooden house: choosing a cable, connecting a circuit breaker and meter, installing sockets and lamps. Hidden wiring in a wooden house with your own hands, step-by-step instructions What cross-section of wire is needed in a wooden house

Despite the pursuit of modern technologies, in recent years some industries have returned to their roots. The most striking example is the construction sector: people much more often give preference to the construction of country wooden houses. This is facilitated by a number of reasons, ranging from lightness and efficiency to the environmental friendliness of the final product.

Wood is a natural anti-allergenic material. Thanks to the latest innovations, 100% natural substances are used in the construction of such buildings. Wood has its drawbacks, and the main one is the increased level of fire danger. Therefore, wiring in a wooden house must comply with all recommendations, installation and operation rules. And it doesn’t matter whether you lay it yourself or turn to professional specialists for help.

What kind of electrical wiring is suitable for a wooden house?

Not a single modern residential building, whether it is made of wood, concrete or adobe blocks, can do without electricity. Depending on what building materials were used to construct the building, the organization of electrical wiring will have different features. The main nuance of wiring in a wooden house is the increased risk of fire and higher requirements for the quality of wiring.

Open or closed

There are two main types of electrical wiring: open and closed. In the first case, the cable is located in an open place: attached to the walls, laid on external shelves, and so on.

The process of laying cables using the open method in a wooden house can be done in one of two main ways:

Using boxes, corrugated pipes or cable channels. This option is appropriate for houses with flat walls, which, for example, are finished with clapboard. The key advantage of this approach is the availability of the cable, the possibility of prompt repair or replacement, and the installation of an additional branch. Since the wires are open, they are perfectly cooled, which eliminates the possibility of overheating or fire. For better ventilation, the cable channel cavity should be filled with wires 60% or less.
For a wooden house made of rounded logs, cable installation using insulators is suitable. First, ceramic rollers, which are excellent dielectrics, are fixed, then cables are attached to them. This technology is outdated and rarely used even today. Ideally, multi-colored twisted pair cables should be used.

Installation on brackets. An alternative method that is suitable if it is impossible to lay the cable in boxes or fix it on insulators.
Retro wiring that allows you to most effectively and unusually disguise the cable fixed on the walls and under the ceiling.

Hidden installation of electrical wiring is appropriate and desirable in all situations where the external walls, floor and ceiling of the house have not yet been covered with finishing materials. For wooden houses, cables should be hidden in metal or corrugated pipes. The use of plastic cable ducts is strictly prohibited. The method requires large investments, but allows for high-quality and safe installation, hiding the cable from view.

It is impossible to say for sure whether hidden or open electrical wiring is better or worse for a wooden house. It all depends on individual preferences, operating conditions, the presence or absence of a suitable tool and other factors. For example, the walls in the house have already been finished, so you don’t want to tear down the lining to perform hidden installation. In such a case, the open installation method is chosen.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

Above, we determined that wood is the most dangerous and flammable building material used as a basis for the construction of residential buildings.

We list the basic requirements that must be followed when organizing electrical wiring in a wooden house:

Increased level of electrical and fire safety. Make sure that cables and wires are laid in such a way that will minimize the likelihood of overheating of the insulation and subsequent ignition, and will prevent the spread of open flame to other parts of the wooden structure. During the design process, it is necessary to achieve full compliance of the technical parameters and operational characteristics of the wires and products used with the peak load for a certain section of the circuit. To reduce the likelihood of overheating, empty cavities are left in cable channels and metal corrugations, and the wire cross-section is taken with a margin of 20-30%. To increase safety, it is advisable to choose an open installation method, which allows you to monitor the condition of the wires throughout their entire service life, perform timely diagnostics, identifying and promptly eliminating damage.

High quality insulation. The electrical panel must be reliably isolated from any wooden products. Ideally, you need to choose rooms with a partition made of non-combustible materials.
Reliable guide. It is best to use three-core copper wires with high-quality non-flammable insulation. Avoid laying cables through PVC corrugation.
Efficient automation. Each group of working devices in the electrical circuit must be supplemented with a circuit breaker. The operating threshold of this product depends on the permissible current load. Try not to overestimate these values, otherwise the conductor will overheat.

Regulations

All requirements and rules for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house are clearly stated in three documents:

PUE, edition 7. The main document that guides the design of electrical networks of residential buildings. Here you will find basic recommendations for selecting cables, distribution equipment, automatic protection devices and lighting devices.
SNiP 3.05.06-85. Describes the organization of electrical wiring in old and new buildings. From the document you will learn the basic methods of connecting and inserting wires into living rooms.
SNiP 31-02. Additional rules and recommendations that are important to consider when laying cables in a residential building.

These SNiPs contain many technical terms and parameters, so this language will be incomprehensible to an inexperienced person. Thus, it is enough to study the corresponding edition of the PUE.

Drawing up a diagram

Construction of an electrical wiring diagram is a preparatory stage preceding any work on installing or replacing a cable. Only a competent and technically correct project guarantees high-quality installation of a reliable and safe electrical circuit that complies with the rules and regulations.

When drawing up a diagram of future electrical wiring, follow a number of recommendations:

Important electrical components, including panels, meters and sockets, must be placed in accessible places. You must be able to get to such a unit at any time in order to carry out prompt repairs or replacement, eliminating the likelihood of a fire or short circuit.
Place switches in open areas so that they are not cluttered with furniture. This error was common in Soviet times, and today hidden switches can often be found in the houses of parents and grandparents. The ideal height for any switch is at least 50 cm from the floor.
When choosing the location of future outlets, think in advance where all household appliances should be located. Try to install a number of outlets that will be sufficient to operate devices without extension cords. The height from the floor for sockets should be 25-50 cm. In theory, it is enough to have one socket for every 6 square meters. m. However, if the situation requires it, then their number can be increased.

Twists and frequent kinks of the electrical cable are excluded. It is desirable that all the lines in the diagram be at right angles to the floor, ceiling and walls - horizontally or vertically. Bottom or top electrical wiring is used: the cable is placed at a distance of 15 cm from the floor or ceiling, respectively.
It is important to use metal junction boxes for connecting wires. The use of plastic or wooden products is prohibited.

Preparing a home power supply project

Before you start designing wiring for a wooden house, you need to contact your electricity supplier to obtain technical specifications. It is from them that you need to start when doing this work. First, you should calculate the total power consumed by all electrical appliances in the house, including lighting sources.

Further development of the project is as follows:

Construct a technical diagram of a residential building. Indicate on the plan all the places where sockets, switches and lighting sources will be located. Add electrical devices that require separate connections to the circuit.
The type of cable is selected depending on the characteristics of the electrical point. For example, two-gang switches and grounded outlets require a three-wire wire.

Indicate the location of all junction boxes. In a pair of adjacent rooms, you can use one common one.
Add the power of all individual appliances to the plan. If the device is equipped with an electric motor, then the starting power of the unit should be indicated.
Appliances are divided into different groups: one includes lighting products, the other includes powerful boilers, boilers and electric stoves. Switching must be carried out through differential automatic machines, which should be indicated in the diagram.
Mark the distance between the cable and door/window openings, electrical points and floor/ceiling.

Important! Any rotation of the cable must be done at a right angle (90 degrees).

At the end of the work, the maximum power that will be required when turning on all electrical devices in the house is calculated. This allows you to determine the load level on the input machine.

Selecting cables and electrical devices

To select a cable, any table that indicates the ratio of wire cross-section to a specific load is suitable. You can use a special electrical reference book. The cable cross-section is selected depending on the power of electrical appliances and their number in a separate group. You can find out the level of consumed load from the equipment data sheet or by studying the label on the product (packaging). To determine the cross-section of the input cable, the powers of all electrical appliances are summed up, and a small margin of 20-30% is taken.

NYM brand copper wires are popular for wooden houses. This product has an additional insulating shell and is characterized by durability and ease of use. If you use an aluminum cable, try to avoid frequent kinks. In addition, it often breaks during the cutting process.

Three-core cables are used for sockets and lighting fixtures, increasing the safety of the equipment. Grounding is required when operating any powerful equipment, including street floodlights.

The choice of sockets and switches is based on the current load, the type of electrical wiring (open or hidden), the ability to switch the entire block and switch in one frame.

Selection of input cable and circuit breaker at the input

After calculating the rated load of the devices, select a suitable cross-section for the input cable. In the event of an upgrade of electrical wiring and the need to replace internal cables and circuit breakers to increase power, it is necessary to replace the input wire.

Having changed the wiring in the house, installing strong circuit breakers, you may encounter another problem: a lack of cross-sectional area for the input cable, which will subsequently cause a fire. It is prohibited to change the input cable yourself, so the only way out is to contact your electricity supplier with a corresponding request.

Three-phase electrical networks require the connection of a three-pole circuit breaker. Single-phase networks are more common and for them one- and two-pole differential circuit breakers are used to break the phase with the neutral.

Advice! When choosing a differential circuit breaker, consider a rated power that will be sufficient to break the circuit and prevent a short circuit, rather than a complete power outage in the house when the maximum load is reached.

Rating and type of machine for single-phase power supply

When choosing a circuit breaker, use the following formulas:

The total power of all electrical appliances and the maximum permissible current load: I (max) = P/U*cosA, where cosФ is equal to 0.8. The resulting current value is corrected using a correction factor equal to 1.1. As a result, a current will be obtained, upon reaching which the device will operate. A 25 A circuit breaker is usually sufficient for the cable entry at home.
To determine the type of machine, you must calculate the minimum value of the short circuit current. For a single-phase 220 V network, a simple formula is used: I (short circuit) = 3260 * S/L, where S is the cross-section of the wire in square millimeters, and L is its length in meters. This formula is relevant for an extended section with small cross-section wires.
The ratio of short circuit current to maximum current is the most important parameter of a circuit breaker. For wooden houses, type C differential circuit breakers are more often chosen, suitable for mixed-load electrical networks.

The input circuit breaker for a private house is placed after the electric meter. This device, together with the metering device and the RCD, is fixed in a special panel mounted on a metal profile.

Installing electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The process of installing electrical wiring in a wooden house is divided into several stages:

placement of power input cable;
installation of a distribution panel;
installation of cable lines;
fastening switches and sockets;
contact switching;
checking network functionality.

These jobs will require a variety of tools, including an electric drill with a bit, a screwdriver with various attachments, an indicator and rubber gloves to protect against electric shock.

Installation of distribution panel

The input cable from the nearest electrical pole is laid into the house. Any branches are excluded before it ends up in the main distribution panel.

The shield includes several important components:

Plastic or metal body. For wooden houses, the second option is preferable. There are no strict regulations regarding the size of the box, so proceed from individual devices and make a reserve. Keep in mind that the electrical network may need to be upgraded in the future.
Electricity meter with seal.
Automatic switch at the input. A device with two or three poles is selected. The electricity supplier places a seal on this equipment.

Additional single-pole circuit breakers mounted on DIN rails. The number of such devices is not regulated in any way. The home electrical network is divided into several sections, so a separate circuit breaker is installed for each. One zone can be allocated to illuminate the courtyard and buildings near a residential building, another - rooms, and so on. The power of the machine will be calculated individually for the working area. The main condition for calculations is timely operation due to overload in weak areas. For example, if the permissible current load for an outlet is 15 A, then the machine should trip at the slightest excess of this value.
The residual current device is expensive, and most homeowners ignore installing it. The device turns off the power supply when a leak is detected. This will prevent electric shock. Only a qualified specialist will be able to select a device with suitable technical and operational parameters.

Cabling

The wiring is hidden in cable ducts or under baseboards. The work consists of several stages. At the first stage, the wire is cut into segments, the number of which depends on the number of sockets and switches. The length of a separate wire is equal to the distance between the socket and switches with a margin of 15-20 cm.

Next, the installation of cable channels is carried out, which are attached strictly vertically or horizontally. To ensure the boxes are level, use a building level. At the end of the work, the electrical wire is placed inside the cable channels, but do not rush to close them.

Electrical installation of distribution boxes

A junction box should be installed wherever the main cable branches to connect outlets or switches. The device is used to divide power lines and further distribute them to other parts of the room.

The cable is secured in the box using one of the following methods:

Using PPE caps, which differ in size and color. To install, the end of the wire is stripped 30 mm, twisted, then threaded through the cap and twisted. The twisted ends of the two sections are hidden in the distribution box so as to prevent contact with other twists.
Special vags. This product is selected depending on specific sizes. The devices differ in the number of holes for wiring and cross-section. For switching, the ends of the wires are stripped to 10-15 mm, after which they are placed in the holes until they click. The ends of the cables are run in different directions, excluding contact and short circuit.
Twisted with electrical tape. After stripping the ends, the two wires are twisted together and then covered with electrical tape. The insulated twist is located inside the distribution box.

Installation of switches and sockets

Sockets and switches are attached directly to the wall. Before installation, aluminum or asbestos insulation is laid. The sockets are screwed as tightly and firmly as possible to prevent loosening. When connecting a three-core cable, the yellow-green wire is used for grounding.

Installation of lighting fixtures

Lighting fixtures in a private residential building are divided into three main categories:

built-in;
invoices;
street

It is important to use metal platforms for mounting wall lamps, sconces and similar ceiling products, which will increase fire safety. Switching the lamp to the network is carried out according to a simple scheme using yellow-green wires. Each product is equipped with contacts for connecting to a three-phase network.

How difficult is the job of replacing wiring?

Replacing wiring in a wooden house does not present any difficulties for experienced craftsmen. The process will be especially easy if an external gasket is used. After turning off the power supply at the input machine, all old cable lines are removed and a new wire of a suitable cross-section is laid in their place.

If there is hidden wiring in the house, it is absolutely not necessary to destroy all the walls. You can disconnect the old wiring from the input machine, attach a new cable to it and install it using the open method.

Grounding device and installation of RCD

For grounding, a PE bus is used, which is connected to a grounding device. It is installed in the ground near the wall of a residential building. Externally, such equipment consists of several metal sticks with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm and a length of up to 3 m, they are connected by a common metal strip.

To connect the grounding device and the bus, a single-core wire of the same cross-section as the input cable is suitable. After the installation is completed, the resistance of the grounding device is measured. In single-phase networks it should be equal to 8, three-phase - 4 Ohms.

Installation errors

The occurrence of fires in wooden houses is often associated with violations of safety rules during the installation or operation of electrical wiring.

We list the main mistakes that are made in both cases:

Installation of hidden wiring under the ceiling. Often the electrical wire is placed in the interfloor ceilings, forgetting about additional insulation measures. In this case, the cable ends up in close proximity to wooden surfaces. If the cross-section is incorrectly selected, the cable line will begin to overheat, which will gradually lead to a fire.
Cable laying under the baseboard. There is little space underneath, which is not enough to create a “safe air barrier.” Because of this, the wire is constantly in contact with the wooden or plastic baseboard, which leads to overheating and fire. Gaps in the plinth should be at least 10-15 mm.

The use of corrugated polyvinyl chloride pipes is strictly unacceptable when installing electrical wiring in wooden houses. Replace the products with standard metal or corrugated cable ducts.
Cable placement in a groove without insulation. When choosing a hidden installation method, it is permissible to use prepared recesses - grooves. However, even in this case, it is not a bare cable that needs to be placed in the groove, but a metal corrugation or a steel tube.
Installation boxes for sockets and switches must be made of metal. The use of plastic structures is unacceptable.

Fire protection measures

To ensure a high level of fire protection, a number of key factors must be taken into account:

Select and install an RCD with suitable parameters.
Install a modular-pin type grounding circuit and corresponding resistance depending on the number of phases in the network.
Ensure the functionality of the system that equalizes potentials.
Ensure continuity of grounding at each section of the circuit.
Install only overhead sockets.
Carry out hidden installation using metal cable ducts and pipes.

By following the listed rules, recommendations and standards, you can organize safe electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands or make sure of the competence of the specialists called. And this is very important, since the risk of fire in these residential buildings is much higher.

Wooden houses are in demand due to the speed and ease of construction, low cost of construction work and environmental safety of the material.

Many people are stopped by the fire hazard of objects, because wood is susceptible to fire and quickly burns out when ignited. That is why when buying a wooden house it is important to carefully select equipment and install electrical wiring. This is especially true if the work is done with your own hands.

Advantages of hidden wiring

When installing electrical wiring, many people choose a hidden installation option that does not spoil the interior design of the room.

The advantages of the method are obvious:

There are no cable channels on the walls that are conspicuous and interfere with wallpapering the surface.
Low risk of fire if the rules of the Electrical Installation Regulations are strictly followed during the hidden installation process.
Ease of cable replacement if it is laid in a corrugated pipe.
Low risk of mechanical damage due to installation of the product in concrete, metal products or a plaster layer.
Safety for the residents of the house, because the wires are hidden from view and access to them is limited.
There are no difficulties when performing finishing work, because the cable is located inside the finishing.
There are no negative environmental impacts.

These reasons are enough to give preference to hidden wiring when arranging an electrical network in a wooden house.

What not to do, installation rules according to the PUE

Some “specialists” take on the installation of hidden wiring without sufficient knowledge and, accordingly, without taking into account the requirements of the PUE.

A common mistake that is made during work is installing a wire on a wooden surface and then covering it with wood trim.

The calculation is made on the strength of the wire and its insulation. Such connivance can lead to a fire, because processes occur in wooden recesses that are impossible to predict.

Over the years, cable products are negatively affected by temperature changes, dust, sudden changes in humidity or damage to insulating materials.

Under increased loads, when electrical equipment is turned on in all rooms (heaters, TV, multicooker and other equipment), a large current flows through the wires. As a result, the risk of a short circuit between two adjacent wires increases.

If there is no reflective non-flammable surface near the cable, a wooden building may catch fire even though it is impregnated with a special fire-fighting compound. It is almost impossible to stop the fire.

When choosing a hidden wiring option in a wooden house, you need to take into account the complexity of the process and the importance of meeting the requirements of GOST R (50571.1-2009) and PUE-7.

If you have no experience, it is better not to undertake installation. Invite qualified specialists who know the norms of the mentioned documents and follow the rules. But you don’t need to stay on the sidelines either. Knowledge of the requirements of the PUE and GOST R helps to control the hired electricians.

Project preparation

When creating a project for hidden wiring, attention is paid to the fire safety of a wooden house. This is true even to the detriment of appearance deterioration.

The hidden wiring diagram should have a minimum of turns. In this case, contact with wood must be avoided. The cable must be laid in copper and steel pipes. In a PVC corrugation or metal hose, installation under asbestos or plaster is allowed, but according to PEU 7 this is prohibited.

Before starting work, it is necessary to develop a project and coordinate it with the local power supply company (District Electric Networks).

PTS service employees develop technical conditions that apply when performing work. First, the total power of electrical appliances is calculated, and then a wiring diagram is developed.

Algorithm of actions when creating a project:

Development of a technical plan for a wooden house. The diagram indicates the locations of electrical sockets, lamps, switches and electrical appliances with a separate supply.
The type of cable is selected for each electrical point. If switches with two buttons and “triple” sockets (with a ground tap) are used, a cable with three cores is connected to them.
The hidden wiring diagram for a wooden house shows the locations for installing junction boxes. To reduce their number, one distribution box is used for two rooms.
The power consumption of each receiver is indicated. If the device is equipped with an electric motor, the parameter is indicated taking into account the starting current of the motor.
Light bulbs, sconces and other lighting equipment are brought into one group, and consumers of higher power into the second. For reliability, both branches are connected to their own circuit breaker with an individual rated current.
The distance from the installation site of hidden wiring to window and door frames, as well as electrical points to the ceiling or floor is indicated. This information is useful and helps protect the wiring from damage during repairs. Electrical cable turns are carried out only at right angles.

After preparing the circuit, the power consumed by electrical appliances is calculated if they are switched on simultaneously.

The rated load current of the input circuit breaker (the one located at the entrance to the room) is also calculated here.

Wire (cable) for electrical wiring in a wooden house: rules for selection and application

After preparing the hidden wiring diagram and indicating the branching locations, you need to decide on the wire used during the installation process.

In wooden houses, special wires are used, designated by the letters VVGng (A) or VVGng-P (A).

The conductors are made of copper, single-core with up to five wires. Cable feature: double insulation:

The internal part is made using PVC, which insulates current-carrying parts from each other. For ease of installation, each wire has its own shade.
The outer insulation is covered with a protective layer of composite material that provides fire resistance. Its peculiarity is its strength and flexibility, which eliminates the difficulty of pulling the cable through the pipe using a cable.

The optimal temperature range is from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius. The advantages of the insulating layer are protection against corrosion, lack of reaction with chemical components, and resistance to deformation due to temperature changes. Resistance to combustion is confirmed by the requirement of GOST R IEC 60332-3-22.

You can choose other types of cables:

VVGng LS or VVGng-P LS - additional resistance to certain substances (for example, hydrogen chloride);
NYM is a copper cable that meets the requirements of GOST 22483 and is characterized by reinforced insulation in three layers. The cores are insulated with multi-colored PVC, and then wrapped in special protection with fire-resistant qualities. The number of cores in such a product is up to five. Modern German technology is used in production, guaranteeing high quality products.

When choosing a cable for hidden wiring, you need to take into account the characteristics of the room and not save money on purchasing a quality product.

Main and input cables, circuit breaker

When choosing a cable for hidden wiring in a wooden house, you need to take into account that it comes in two types - general (runs through the building) and input (to the machine). Let's look at the features for each option.

Basic wiring

The common cable is selected taking into account the loads in the room. When choosing, you need to know the maximum power (current) of the electrical equipment.

So, when using cable products with copper conductors for a cross section of 1.5 mm. sq. rated current is 19 A (for voltage 220 V and 4.1 kV). With a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm. copper wiring can withstand 27 A (5.9 kW).

In rare cases, it may be necessary to install a 4-square wire. In this case, the rated current is 38 A and the power is 8.3 kW. When choosing a cross-section, the rated power of each electrical appliance is taken into account.

The most popular type of cable for hidden wiring is NYM (its features are described above). The advantages are density, ease of installation and the presence of additional insulation, which is important for wooden houses.

The downside is the fear of strong bends, which can lead to damage. When connecting to sockets, cable products with three cores are used, which protects against electric shock. Grounding is also necessary when using powerful floodlights on site.

Enter

When choosing an input cable, the power of electrical receivers is also taken into account. These parameters are summed up and the final indicator used when selecting a section is determined.

When replacing hidden wiring in a wooden house, one must not forget about updating the input cable. If the section is not enough, the risk of fire in the house increases.

If it is impossible to replace the input cable with your own hands, you need to involve specialists in the work. As a rule, the work is performed during installation of the meter and its sealing.

Circuit breaker

An error in choosing circuit breakers (CBs) is also fraught with consequences. When purchasing a product you need to go through two stages:

Determination of the sum of electrical equipment powers and calculation of the current limit parameter. To obtain the desired indicator (I), the total power is divided by voltage and cosine “phi” (0.8). A correction factor of 1.1 will be applied to the calculated figure. After performing the calculation on your hands, the maximum operating parameter of the circuit breaker. As a rule, an AV with a rated current of 25A is enough for a small wooden house.
Selecting the type of circuit breaker. Here a lower threshold for short-circuit current is required. To determine the current in a 1-phase 220V circuit, you need to multiply 3260 by the cross-section of the wire (sq. mm), and divide the resulting number by the length of the cable product. The formula is used to calculate the longest section with the minimum cross-section of the conductor.

The ratio of the short-circuit current and the rated I indicates the characteristics of the AV. The optimal solution for hidden wiring and a wooden house is to purchase an automatic machine with characteristic C.

The device copes well with work in circuits with different electrical consumers.

An important point is the number of poles. If the house uses three-phase wiring, a three-pole circuit breaker is used, and for a single-phase circuit, a 1-pole switch is used.

The installation location of the input AV is after the electricity meter. All circuit breakers, including those feeding the power and lighting groups, are installed in a panel on a DIN rail (special mounting is provided on circuit breakers). After installing the AB, wiring is done throughout the room.

When choosing an input circuit breaker, you need to focus on the maximum current so that the cutoff or thermal element does not trigger from the operating load.

Installation of hidden wiring in a wooden house

Installation of hidden wiring can begin after purchasing the equipment. For the work you will need cable products, AV, switches, sockets and light bulbs (chandeliers).

Distribution boxes are also purchased, which are installed in strict accordance with the specified diagram. When using finishing material, the wires are laid in an armored sleeve.

Subtleties and rules of installation

Unlike external wiring, where it is routed using ceramic rollers or brackets, in the hidden version the cable is hidden in the walls, cable duct or baseboard.

Installation is carried out carefully, because any damage to the insulation is fraught with a short circuit and possible fire. When an arc occurs, the surrounding air heats up to a temperature of 5000 degrees Celsius (this is enough to ignite wood).

The use of plastic corrugations or pipes for installation is unacceptable, because the products do not withstand long-term use and burn out when exposed to high temperatures.

Special wood impregnation does not protect against fire. By the way, steel corrugation does not protect from 5000 degrees, because its walls are small in thickness and are not designed for such heating.

That is why, when installing concealed installations, you need to select equipment that can withstand the high temperatures that occur during a short circuit. If the arc encounters an obstacle on its way, it quickly fades.

A better solution is to make hidden wiring in a wooden house using steel (copper) pipes or ducts. Their peculiarity is the convenience of cutting pieces and the ability to combine using different adapters, soldering or welding equipment.

To increase resistance to rust, the surface of the pipes must be coated with special paint.

You can use copper pipes, which are corrosion-resistant and easy to bend, but they come at a high price.

Rules for installing hidden wiring in a wooden house:

The cable cannot touch the wooden surface. It is necessary to ensure that every centimeter of wiring is in special protection (a metal pipe or box).
To install the tube into the wall, you need to make a groove, holes for fastening, or cut out a recess for wiring. To carry out such work will require skill and perseverance.
Vertical channels are drilled when installing the crowns of the log house. Horizontal laying is done after the walls are installed.
To pull the cable, a conductor (thin wire) is laid inside the pipe.
Places of installation and transitions between rooms are insulated using additional elements (asbestos, alabaster, sleeves, metal boxes, etc.)
When attaching hidden wiring, you need to take into account the number of lines. If several cables pass in one armored sleeve, this requires greater thickness. Hiding such a product in a wooden house is a difficult task.

When creating hidden wiring, you need to remember the importance of the RCD. The device provides instant shutdown when leakage currents occur. For reliability, there must be several devices (for each group).

Selecting a wiring route

When choosing a place to lay a route in a wooden house, you need to take into account the requirements of the PUE. Think through everything in such a way that the number of turns and bends is minimal.

If difficulties arise with pulling the cable due to the characteristics of the building or communications in the walls, junction boxes made of steel or copper are installed at problem points.

The maximum number of these devices is not specified, but their installation cannot be abused. The connection points, even when meeting the requirements of the Electrical Regulations, reduce the reliability of the entire electrical network.

When installing distribution boxes, you must follow these rules:

boxes should not be covered with decorative elements;
It is prohibited to use ceilings that complicate access for monitoring, replacing or measuring voltage levels.

The installation depth of the pipes is selected so as not to violate the strength and load-bearing parameters of the wooden house.

The number of bends, junction boxes and other components is calculated so that, if possible, the wire can be changed in a problem area without dismantling building elements.

Installation of distribution board

The electrical panel casing is attached taking into account the hidden wiring diagram. After installing it, the following work is done:

meter mounting;
installation of a special input AV on a DIN rail;
connecting wires (phase and neutral);
connecting wires to the input of the main machine;
cable entry into the house and connection to the meter input terminals;
installation on a DIN rail of voltage relays and AVs supplying different groups of electrical wiring;
connecting electrical appliances using wires.

Installation of grounding and RCD

In a wooden house (as in other residential premises) it is difficult to do without high-power equipment (washing machine, boiler, refrigerator and others).

The use of equipment with a metal casing requires grounding. Its arrangement occurs according to the following algorithm:

Prepare three metal rods, three centimeters in diameter and 3 meters in length.
Dig a triangle-shaped hole in the ground. Each of the edges should be 100 cm in length.
Drive metal rods into the corners of the triangular shape.
Connect the rods to each other using welding and a metal angle.
Weld a loop to one of the corners, and then fasten a steel centimeter rod using a screw or welding.
Place it in a trench to connect to the ground in the electrical panel.

For ease of identification, the grounding cable conductor is made in yellow-green insulation.

More information can be obtained from the article about.

Additional protection - installation of an RCD. The device is mounted in the panel after the meter. When choosing a residual current device, you need to know the rated current (calculated when choosing a machine).

The task of the RCD is to respond to any leak, which is especially important for wooden houses and rooms with high humidity.

Power cable entry

Before installing hidden wiring, you need to take preliminary measures - connect the power cable to the wooden house (electrical panel).

The work is carried out in strict accordance with SNiP and PUE, with the involvement of specialists knowledgeable in these issues. The cable product is supplied by air or in the ground.

The first method is more attractive due to its ease of implementation and lower costs. For overhead installation, a self-supporting insulated conductor is used. It is also necessary to install a heat-resistant sleeve (the cable passes through it).

The second method (hidden laying in the ground) requires the use of a metal pipe to protect the cable from damage. When choosing this method, you need to coordinate the work with the employees of the distribution zone.

Wall mounting in a cable channel

If you don’t want to “hide” the wiring in the walls of a wooden house, you can simplify the task and use special cable channels. The work is performed according to the following algorithm:

marking the line along which the hidden wires will go (the work is carried out taking into account the existing circuit);
selection of the cross-section of the cable channel, which depends on the number of wires passing inside;
removing the cover and fixing the box to the wall or ceiling surface using self-tapping screws (fastening range - 50 cm), and at the turning points additional fastening is provided using self-tapping screws;
laying wires in cable channels with subsequent installation of a cover (a supply of wires for connection is left near switches and sockets);
combining wires in distribution boxes, connecting to circuit breakers, sockets and switches.

Before installing hidden wiring, you need to prepare tools and equipment, and then get to work.

In metal pipes

A reliable method of hidden installation is the use of metal pipes that protect a wooden house from fire in the event of a short circuit. The diameter of the tube is selected taking into account the properties of the cable used.

The product should occupy no more than 40 percent of the internal area and easily pass along the entire length.

It is allowed to lay several cables in one pipe at once (the above rule must be observed). When determining the cross-section, the full diameter is taken into account (including insulation).

When choosing thickness, you must follow the requirements of VSN 370-93 or SP 31.110-2003. Recommended parameters for the cross-section of aluminum/copper wires:

4/2.5 sq. mm. - not standardized;
6/- - 2.5 mm;
10/4 - 2.8 mm;
16-25/6-10 - 3.2 mm;
35-50/16 - 3.5 mm.

Before pulling the cable into pipes, it is necessary to measure the insulation resistance to check the integrity of the product.

The work helps ensure that there is no damage during storage, transportation or preparation.

When pulling, a special wire made of end sleeves is used to protect the cable from damage. After completion of the work, the cable is once again checked for damage.

Grounding metal pipes

It is no secret that metal is an excellent conductor of electricity, so pipes for hidden wiring in a wooden house need to be grounded. In this case, the products should not burst in installation or distribution boxes.

If this is the case, you need to connect the metal structures using a grounding conductor.

In a metal hose or plastic pipe: what are the risks?

Hidden wiring in a wooden house eliminates the possibility of laying cable products on a wooden surface. It is also prohibited to lay the conductor using metal corrugation, plastic pipes or metal hoses. This requirement is specified in the PUE (7.18).

The above products are susceptible to the negative effects of rodents, which easily damage their surface and get to the wires.

In addition, wood dust accumulates in the boxes, which is prone to ignition. Once the flame flares up, there is no way to stop it.

Laying in a corrugated metal sleeve or PVC corrugation is possible (this does not mean that it is allowed) provided that a 10 mm layer of plaster is applied on top or protected with an asbestos layer.

There are several types of metal sleeves for hidden wiring on the market:

RZ-TsH;
RZ-SL;
With PVC insulation (high temperature resistant).

The first type of product (RZ-TsH) is an unsealed corrugated hose made of galvanized steel. Cotton material is used to seal the joints.

RZ-SL - corrugated hose made of white tin. Before twisting, the product can withstand electrolytic tinning, which involves applying tin plating to the surface.

The purpose of the layer is to protect the product from corrosion and extend its service life. Polypropylene film is used for insulation between joints. Its peculiarity is its resistance to stress and the ability to withstand high humidity.

A metal hose in PVC insulation is a hermetic structure that can withstand high humidity, chemical and mechanical stress.

In addition, the product protects the cable from exposure to sunlight. Can be used for any type of wiring in a wooden house (inside and outside).

An alternative option is a metal hose made of stainless steel, but its disadvantage is high price. The advantage is the guarantee of high performance and long service life.

When choosing a suitable solution, you need to consider the following features:

For rooms with high humidity, a sealed armored sleeve is used that does not allow moisture to enter the product.
In ordinary rooms of a wooden house (residential or non-residential), the use of a simple product of the RZ-TsH type is allowed.
Under harsh operating conditions, it is necessary to buy a metal hose with polymer insulation.

Metal corrugation is sold in coils 30 and 50 m long. If cutting is necessary, a special tool is used - an angle grinder, scissors, a metal file or others.

A good solution is to use plaster around the metal sleeve. For hidden wiring, this step is required (you cannot use a “bare” metal hose). The thickness of the plaster should be 1 cm or more. The solution seems simple, but it is not.

Flaws:

Difficulty in repairing or replacing wiring. Tightening the wire without dismantling is a very difficult task.
Plaster does not adhere well to a wooden surface. Over time, cracks may appear and it will begin to crumble.
Using plaster on wood does not make sense, because the very essence of a wooden house is its naturalness.

Despite a number of shortcomings, laying armored hoses in plaster does not violate the requirements of the PUE, therefore it has the right to life.

Placement of switches, boxes, sockets

When installing hidden wiring, you cannot do without mounting switches and sockets on the walls. At the points where the elements are fixed, you need to make indentations and secure the products.

The work is carried out using a special technology designed for wooden buildings.

Key points:

grounding is mandatory for the entire structure;
if the metal elements do not break along their entire length, grounding on the electrical panel will suffice;
the presence of breaks requires the installation of additional grounding by soldering or another method.

The boxes are fixed to the pipes in several ways - welding or soldering, which guarantees high quality contacts, protection against rust and resistance to damage.

If copper pipes are used for hidden wiring, they are flared when connected to the box.

In the case of steel structures, a thread is made for fastening with a nut. When choosing boxes (technological, distribution), you need to pay attention to the protection class. It must be IP-54 or higher, which guarantees protection from dust and moisture.

Order of connecting wires

The PUE clearly states the rules regarding the connection of wires inside the box (installed together with the main cable outlets).

Combining wires involves using the following methods:

WAGO SELF-CLAMPING TERMINALS. To use this method, 1 cm of insulation is removed from the wire. When choosing terminals, you need to take into account the cross-section with insulation).
CAPS FOR TWISTING. The insulation is removed taking into account the length of the cap, which contains a conical spring. When putting the product on the twist, the spring clamps the wire, and the plastic sheath provides reliable insulation.
Twisting. When choosing this method, the wires are stripped of insulation to a 4-centimeter length, and then twisted together. The twisted areas need to be soldered and then wrapped with electrical tape. .

It must be remembered that the number of joints affects the ability of hidden wiring to withstand loads. The greater the number of connections, the lower the permissible load.

In addition, to avoid confusion, you need to consider the purpose of the colors. Yellow-green is ground, red or brown is phase, and blue or white is zero.

Electrical wiring test

After installing hidden wiring, it must be tested. This is especially important for wooden houses with a low level of fire resistance.

When checking, special instruments are used, and trained employees of electrical laboratories are invited to perform the work.

The range of events includes:

visual inspection;
grounding resistance measurement;
AB check;
phase-zero circuit test;
checking protective devices;
control of the chain between the ground electrode and the devices.

After completion of the work, a test report is drawn up and submitted. Carrying out such measures is mandatory, because they help to avoid accidents and prevent equipment breakdowns.

In conclusion, we present tips and results regarding the implementation of hidden wiring in wooden houses.

Basic points:

For electrical wiring in a wooden house, it is better to use NYM - a cable with triple electrical insulation.
The best circuit protection is provided by differential circuit breakers that protect the network from short circuits and leakage (RCD).
Grounding junction boxes and metal pipes is a mandatory safety element.
During installation, you need to take into account the shrinkage of the wooden house to avoid distortion and damage to the wires.
The pipe connection must be as reliable as possible. Welding and soldering are used for joining.
The best pipes are copper. Their advantages are resistance to corrosion and ease of bending.
Plastic inserts are used at the ends of the pipes to protect the cable from damage.
If lining or wooden wallpaper is used during installation, you can run pipes along the existing recesses.
In a wooden house it is allowed to combine hidden and open wiring.
Installation is done exclusively according to a scheme agreed upon with experts.
The main attention is paid to fire protection, and only after that the aesthetic component.
The optimal solution is to lay channels in existing recesses, window and door openings, under baseboards or ceiling cladding.
When using corrugated pipes, it is necessary to cover the surface with plaster or asbestos gaskets.
The pipes are joined together by threading or welding.
Distribution boxes must be freely accessible.

Results

Hidden wiring in a wooden house can only be installed if you know the regulations and follow the current requirements.

Violation of the rules is fraught with negative consequences, including fire of the building. If you lack experience, it is better to refuse to work with your own hands and entrust the work to the masters.

5 / 5 ( 1 voice )

Private buildings made of timber and logs are distinguished by their visual appeal, comfortable living and environmental friendliness. But they are classified as buildings with an increased fire hazard, which is due to the flammability of wood. Therefore, wiring in a wooden house is carried out taking into account special requirements. They are set out in the Electrical Equipment section of the Building Standards (SNiP) and the Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations (PUE).

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Installation requirements and general work plan

If you strictly adhere to the provisions of the PUE and SNiP, you can actually arrange a reliable and safe power supply system for a wooden house with your own hands. First, you need to familiarize yourself with the key requirements of these rules and regulations:

A competent, scrupulous calculation of the cable cross-section is required. Non-flammable material is used to insulate them.
It is advisable to install exposed electrical wiring.
Hidden wiring is not recommended for wooden structures. If you have to use it, you should work with cables in a metal pipe or in another sheath.
A protection device (RCD) and a circuit breaker are installed and connected in the distribution panel.

Electrical wiring is divided into external and internal. The first is laid on the street and supplied to the home network through underground wells and channels or by air (overhang).

External cables are usually made of wires with aluminum conductors, and only products with copper conductors are allowed to be used inside the home. Their connection is made in a special adapter called a sleeve. It goes from the electric meter on the outer wall of the building to the switchboard.

Wiring in a wooden house is laid in stages. Experienced electricians advise adhering to the following sequence of work:

The total power of the equipment that is planned to be installed in the home is calculated.
A power supply project is being prepared.
The selection and purchase of switches, sockets, wires, and technical devices is carried out.
Power is supplied to the building, the circuit breaker, electric meter and distribution panel are connected.
The cable is routed throughout the house.
Lighting fixtures, sockets, switches are installed.

Lastly, the RCD is connected and a grounding system is installed. After this, the do-it-yourself wiring is tested for operability and operational safety.

Nuances of drawing up a power supply project for a wooden house

Work should begin by obtaining specifications from your local electricity supplier. Then they begin to calculate the total power of household appliances, lighting and other devices. This operation is easy to do yourself using the table below.

After the calculations, an electrical wiring diagram is created. The procedure is simple:

A technical plan for the house is being drawn up. It marks the installation points of electrical appliances, lamps, switches, sockets, and other equipment.
To connect the equipment, a suitable type of cable is selected.
The wiring diagram shows the places where the distribution boxes will be installed. One such device is usually used for two adjacent (adjacent) rooms in the house.
The plan indicates the power of each electrical appliance (taking into account the starting force for installations with its own engine).
Equipment that consumes a lot of energy (furnaces, heating boilers, water heaters) are combined into one group. A separate machine is used to connect them.
Less powerful devices (chandeliers, floor lamps, etc.) are collected in another group.

The diagram marks the distances from the line along which the cable is laid to all window and door openings and the distance of electrical points from the ceiling and floor surfaces. This is done so that later, if repairs are needed in the house, the likelihood of damage to the wiring is minimal.

There are several important guidelines to follow during the design process. Electrical experts advise working according to the following standards:

The cable is laid at the top or bottom of the wall with a distance of 0.2 m from the ceiling or floor.
The distribution board is installed in the hallway of the house at a height of 150–170 cm so that children cannot reach it.
Turns of internal wiring are made at an angle of 90°.
For reasons of aesthetics and ease of use, all switches are mounted at the same height (0.8–1.5 m). They are usually fixed on the side where the handle of the doors leading into the room is located.

Sockets can be installed at any height (PUE and SNiP do not stipulate this point). But the places for their installation should be thought out as competently as possible, taking into account the arrangement of large household appliances and furniture. Then, after the repair, you will not have to use extension cords to connect electrical equipment.

Selection of wires, sockets, switches - the table will help

The electrical network in a wooden house operates without accidents or failures if the cable cross-section is correctly determined, with the help of which lighting, special equipment and household appliances are connected. Many home craftsmen find this part of the work difficult. The table for selecting the diameter of copper cores for devices operating under certain loads allows you to cope with them.

Section, mm	Voltage, V
	380		220
	power, kWt	Current, A	power, kWt	Current, A
120	171,6	260	66,0	300
95	145,2	220	57,2	260
70	118,8	180	47,3	215
50	95,7	145	38,5	175
35	75,9	115	29,7	135
25	59,4	90	25,3	115
16	49,5	75	18,7	85
10	33,0	50	15,4	70
6	26,4	40	10,1	46
4	19,8	30	8,3	38
2,5	16,5	25	5,9	27
1,5	10,5	16	4,1	19

All electrical appliances have a technical passport or instructions for use. They indicate the loads they consume. Based on this information, it is easy to select the required cables.

The safest wiring in a wooden house is obtained by using NYM copper products. They are easy to install and process, have good strength, and are equipped with additional insulation. Their only drawback is their high cost.

A cable marked VVGng is more affordable. Its insulation is carried out using PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic compound, which does not support combustion.

Switches and sockets are selected according to the type of electrical wiring (open or hidden), the magnitude (calculated) current, and the possibility of connecting them to a single-frame block. Cables with three cores and mandatory grounding are connected to these network elements. The latter ensures almost one hundred percent safety in the operation of household appliances.

Input wire and machine – how to choose the right one?

To determine the cross-section of the cable leading into the house, you need to calculate the total power (total rated load) of all available electrical devices and equipment. This is especially important if the wiring in a wooden house is being updated. That is, a complete replacement of circuit breakers and internal wiring is carried out.

If you need to install a new input cable on a log house or residential building made of logs, you should contact the energy supply organization. Its replacement is carried out before installation and sealing of the electricity meter.

If the building's network is designed for 380 V, a single-pole circuit breaker is installed at the input. For single-phase power supply (220 V), devices with 1 or two poles are used.

Experts advise choosing a circuit breaker with a rating that, at maximum loads, does not cut off the current supply to the home, but breaks the electrical circuit. This eliminates the risk of a short circuit.

It’s easy to decide on the type, characteristics and rating of the input circuit breaker (IA). First, the power of all electrical equipment in the house is taken. Using the formula P / U * 0.8, the maximum current indicator is calculated. Its value is multiplied by a special coefficient of 1.1 and the value at which the switch at the input is triggered is obtained (in most cases a 25 A fuse is used).

The appropriate type of VA is selected based on the short circuit current (SCC). The formula used is: I = 3260 * S (wire cross-section in millimeters) / L (cable length in meters).

The characteristics of the circuit breaker are determined by dividing the TKZ by the rated current. For individual housing construction, it is recommended to use devices of category C. They have proven themselves to be excellent when working in electrical networks with a mixed load.

The VA is mounted after the meter. These two devices are mounted in an electrical panel on a DIN rail along with RCDs and circuit breakers for individual groups of equipment, after which they begin to lay cables throughout the home.

Hidden and open wiring - features

Outside, the cable, as noted earlier, is mounted in metal pipes, which are buried in the ground, or through the air. The first method is more expensive, but truly reliable.

Before internal wiring in the house, the installation points of the distribution board and boxes, switches, sockets, and lighting fixtures are marked. The control panel is fixed at the selected location. Then the following actions are performed:

An electricity meter is mounted in the switchboard housing.
A VA is placed on the DIN rail, to which the neutral and phase are connected.
The input of the input machine is connected to the terminals of the metering device.
Switches and voltage relays for RCDs and individual power groups are installed on the rail.
All terminals of electrical equipment are connected by a wire to one core.

They proceed directly to the wiring - hidden or open. The first is installed in cases where the decoration of the walls in the home is planned to be made as attractive and aesthetic as possible. It is ideal for newly built or completely renovated houses made of timber or rounded logs.

Hidden wiring involves placing cables in special non-flammable plastic or metal (aluminum, steel, copper) boxes. The latter are laid between the facing of the vertical surface and its base.

Open-type electrical wiring is installed in houses that have been in use for a long time and when creating retro interiors in new buildings. It is done using:

Ceramic rollers that act as insulators. This method is optimal for homes with walls made of wooden logs.
Plastic channels for cables fixed on vertical bases. Such mounting devices are available in different colors, which makes it possible to match them to any cladding option.
PVC staples. This technique is rarely used in homes due to its unattractiveness. It is more suitable for wiring in technical, utility and utility rooms.
Corrugated pipes filled with cables to a maximum of 40%.
Special skirting boards equipped with a gutter. The latter has special fasteners for the wire.

Important! It is advisable to equip passages through walls from one room to another with fire-resistant metal sleeves. And stretch the cables through them. In this case, the likelihood of a fire due to faulty wiring is significantly reduced.

Popular methods of internal cable routing

Open wiring is usually carried out using cable channels. Step-by-step instructions for performing such an operation are given below:

The network laying line is marked (according to the existing design).
Remove the cover from the cable channel.
Attach the box to the ceiling surface or wall. Self-tapping screws are used for this. They are installed in increments of 50 cm. At the turns of the route, additional hardware is screwed in.
Distribution boxes are installed in the designated locations.
The electrical wiring is placed in the cable channels, the latter are covered with a lid, and the fasteners are snapped into place.

Important! A small amount of cable should be left at the installation points of switches and sockets. It is necessary to connect the specified elements.

The wires in the distribution boxes are connected to each other and to the terminals of sockets, circuit breakers, and switches. This part of the installation work is described in detail in the next section.

When wiring is hidden, the cable is often “hidden” in metal pipes. The work algorithm is simple:

They make grooves in the walls.
Install distribution boxes (so that access to them after facing the vertical bases is free).
Installing pipes. If necessary, they are pre-cut. The ends of the products are cleaned and all burrs are removed.
The pipes are secured with clamps.

The wiring is pulled through fixed metal channels. In distribution boxes, electrical conductors are twisted and insulated.

Briefly about methods of connecting wires and the intricacies of the procedure

The operation is performed by hand in one of three ways. A single internal wiring is created:

Twisted.
Self-clamping Wago terminals.
Special caps.

The first method is inexpensive and easy to implement. The insulator (4–5 cm) is removed from the ends of the cables. The wires are twisted together, soldered and wrapped with protective adhesive tape.

Wago technology involves removing 1 cm of insulation from the ends of the wires and connecting them using self-clamping terminals. The latter are selected according to the cross-sections of the cables used.

The third method requires the purchase of special caps, inside of which a conical spring is installed. The order of their use:

the wires are stripped and twisted;
cover the junction with the described product.

When the cap is screwed on, the spring firmly clamps the electrical cable. And the plastic shell plays the role of an insulator.

Nuance. The load capacity of the internal route being laid depends on the number of wire connections. The more there are, the less reliable the wiring is in operation.

Final stages of work - little things left

PUEs require that all household electrical equipment with a metal body (refrigerators and freezers, automatic washing machines, boilers, ovens) be grounded. This operation is easy to perform yourself:

Three reinforcing bars with a cross section of 3 and a length of 300 cm are cut.
A triangular ditch 0.3 m deep with sides 1 m is being dug in the courtyard of the house.
The rods are installed in the ground at the corners of the trench and connected to each other by welding and steel blanks.
An eye (loop) is attached to one of the rods. It is made of steel 10 mm thick.

The eyelet is connected in the electrical panel to the grounding conductor. It has a yellow-green insulating layer.

The residual current device is installed in the panel after the meter. It eliminates the risk of electric shock to a person if the latter breaks down on the body of household appliances. The RCD is selected based on two indicators:

Rated current. Its value is taken an order of magnitude higher than the characteristics of the circuit breaker installed in the circuit.
Leakage current. For residential premises with normal humidity, devices with a response threshold of 30 mA are purchased, for bathrooms, toilets and kitchens - 10 mA.

After installation of all elements, the wiring is checked for safety of use and operability by specialists from certified electrical centers and laboratories. They conduct comprehensive tests:

inspect the wiring for correct installation;
measure the resistance of the “zero-phase”, grounding circuit and insulation;
check the operation of RCDs and automatic machines.

The test results are recorded in the protocol. It must be presented to energy sales representatives who will come to seal the electric meter.

Wooden houses are chosen as housing for many reasons: some people are contraindicated from living in concrete “boxes,” while others like beautiful log houses. However, living in them is closely related to the concept of safety. That is why electrical wiring in a wooden house is considered one of the key aspects.

We will talk about how to properly install electrical wiring in a wooden house. We will tell you what diagrams, consumables and electrical installation products are used in laying lines along walls made of timber or logs. With our advice, you can create a secure and trouble-free network.

Even if all logs, beams and boards are treated with fire retardants, they remain vulnerable to accidental fire. For this reason, the stages of constructing an electrical system - from design to installation of sockets and switches - need to be known to both skilled “do-it-yourselfers” and owners who supervise the work of hired builders.

According to the legislation of the Russian Federation, for residential buildings with a power consumption of no more than 15 kW, drawing up an electrical network design is not required. But the company supplying electricity must provide a diagram and data on the total power consumption. This is necessary for calculating the allocated power on the line and installing a meter.

Some electricity supply companies, when concluding a contract, still require a project that includes, in addition to the internal wiring diagram, installation points for sockets, switches, junction boxes, and an electrical panel with a meter

In the process of developing a project, you need to take into account all the nuances: the exact location of electrical installations, the choice of cable and wiring method, the need for grounding, etc. Let’s look at how the project is drawn up and preparation for installation work in more detail.

Step #1 - drawing up a diagram and work plan

You can do the design yourself if you have experience in such work, or with the help of specialists by concluding an agreement with a design organization.

A professionally drawn up document contains the following points:

electrical panel diagram;
electrical installation plan;
calculations for installing a ground loop;
outputs outside the house, if any - autonomous sources of electricity;
equipment installation plan with specifications;
if approval is required, a package of permits;
explanatory note.

But first you should contact Energosbyt to obtain specifications - technical conditions, which are signed in accordance with SNiP.

Owners who apply for a connection with a power of less than 15 kW will have to collect the least amount of paperwork. They need to write a list of electrical appliances and calculate their total power. If the power consumption is more than 35 kW, a linear power supply circuit is required. For 380 V networks, a three-line diagram is drawn up.

Electrical wiring in a country wooden house must be carried out in accordance with the rules of the PUE (electrical installation rules) and not contradict the technical conditions provided by the Network Organization. In order to carry out the entire process of electrifying a wooden house correctly and, thereby, ensure reliable safety of both the residents of such a house and the building itself, you need to understand many electrical issues. But, if you have a minimum amount of knowledge and you carefully study this article, then installing electrical wiring around the house will not be difficult.

In this article, you will learn how to draw up a lighting and power network plan, calculate the cross-sectional thickness of the required electrical wire, learn the nuances of electrical wiring in a wooden building, learn how to choose automatic devices for electrical consumers and assemble an electrical panel, look at practical illustrations of the installed electrical network system in a wooden house.

Initial data

Let's take a fairly simple route - take a ready-made and approved project for constructing an electrical panel, filling it with the necessary equipment and laying electrical wires to consumers. Let’s immediately make a reservation that according to the project, 3-phase power is supplied to the house, but there are no 3-phase consumers yet, so the wiring in the house occurs according to a single-phase circuit. This project was compiled individually for a wooden house in the village. Representatives of the network company and energy sales approved the project and checked the final result. Taking the basics and nuances from the presented project, you will be able to apply the knowledge to your home, correctly lay and complete electrical networks.

What we have? A wooden one-story house with an attic and a basement – 7.13 x 8.90 m, which we have to electrify in accordance with generally accepted rules and regulations. Kitchen and room in one room, L-shaped veranda, bathroom adjacent to the building and cellar with entrance from the kitchen.

Lighting planning

First, let's decide where lighting is needed.

Lighting points on the plan are represented by the icon. One lamp is enough in the bathroom. We will place two light sources on the veranda. 2 lamps in the kitchen and one in the room. We combine all these lamps into one group, they will all be powered through one machine (about machines, RCDs, grounding and the electrical panel in general - a little later). We will symbolize the laying of cables for lighting with a green line. In official projects, all wires are indicated by a black line. As we can see, 3 wires go from the switchboard to lighting - 2 wires - group No. 1 (one to the veranda and bathroom, the second to the kitchen and room), the third wire goes to the spotlight outside the house (it is shown on the plan with the icon ), it belongs to the group No. 2 and it will be powered by another machine.

On the way to each lamp we come across the following icons - and - these are switches, single-key and two-key, respectively. The veranda will turn off the lights on two lamps from one two-gang switch; the bathroom is turned off with a single button; the room is also single-key; in the kitchen there are two lamps, turned off by one two-key switch.

To power lighting, copper wires with a cross section of 1.5 square meters are usually used. mm.

Power network planning

Let's move on to the power network plan, that is, sockets. First, let's decide where we will need sockets - this issue needs to be approached scrupulously, since subsequently the absence of an socket in a certain place will entail a lot of inconvenience, and unused sockets will result in a waste of money. – symbol of the outlet on the plan.

Why do we need electrical sockets? Primarily for the use of household appliances. Decide whether you will have a washing machine, electric stove, electric water heater, microwave oven, electric kettle, oven? Will there be sconces powered by outlets? Where will the computer be located? Where do you need sockets for a vacuum cleaner, electric razor, or floor lamp? If you plan to have 12-volt voltage somewhere, also indicate it on the plan - in this project, 12 volts will power the cellar lighting (for this, a power cable will go from the switchboard to the transformer - on the plan it is shown with a sign, and the power goes to it) . If you plan to install an electric heated floor, a hot tub, an air conditioner, ... - mark all electrical consumers on the plan.

The picture shows 8 sockets for different needs and a transformer. These sockets are divided into 6 different groups and lines - there is an explanation below the picture. On official plans, all electrical lines are shown in black; in the drawing, the lines are shown in different colors for better perception. Each group or line is designated by its own color and will be powered through one machine in the switchboard of a certain rating.

When purchasing sockets, be sure to consider the maximum permissible load or amperage for each device individually. You can buy all the same sockets, the main thing is that the power of each of the devices connected to such an socket does not exceed the maximum possible for these sockets, and better yet, it is less.

Wires for connecting sockets are also calculated individually. For ordinary sockets not used to connect high-power devices, copper wires with a cross-section of 2.5 square millimeters are usually used. If you plan to power something more serious, say a boiler, heated floor or oven, then the cross-section of the wire may have to be increased.

How to calculate the required wire cross-section

For example, we need to power an electric water heater with a power of 4.4 kW. According to the formula J = W/U, where J is the flowing current or the amperage we need; W – consumer power, in our case the water heater is 4.4 kW; and U is the network voltage, we also know it - 220 volts. J = 4400/220 = 20 amperes - this is the current that will pass through the copper core when the water heater is operating. You can find out what cross-section of copper wire we need from the table below.

Permissible long-term current for wires and cords with rubber and polyvinyl chloride insulation with copper conductors (PUE, 6th edition, table 1.3.4.)

Conductor cross-section, mm	Current, A, for wires laid
	open	in one pipe
	open	two single-core	three single-core	four single-core	one two-core	one three-wire
0,5	11	—	—	—	—	—
0,75	15	—	—	—	—	—
1	17	16	15	14	15	14
1,2	20	18	16	15	16	14,5
1,5	23	19	17	16	18	15
2	26	24	22	20	23	19
2,5	30	27	25	25	25	21
3	34	32	28	26	28	24
4	41	38	35	30	32	27
5	46	42	39	34	37	31
6	50	46	42	40	40	34
8	62	54	51	46	48	43
10	80	70	60	50	55	50
16	100	85	80	75	80	70
25	140	115	100	90	100	85
35	170	135	125	115	125	100
50	215	185	170	150	160	135
70	270	225	210	185	195	175
95	330	275	255	225	245	215
120	385	315	290	260	295	250
150	440	360	330	—	—	—
185	510	—	—	—	—	—
240	605	—	—	—	—	—
300	695	—	—	—	—	—
400	830	—	—	—	—	—

The power of consumers can be found either on the device itself or in the documents for this device.

Electrical panel assembly

On ordinary sockets that are not used to connect high-power consumers, 16-amp circuit breakers are usually used (for example, on one 16-amp circuit breaker, you can “hang” 6-8 sockets.

If we are more precise in calculating the required machines, then let’s go into detail: let’s say we need to power an electric water heater, the maximum power of which is 2 kW or 2000 W. We divide 2000 W by the load in the network - 220 volts, and we get the amperage, in our case - 9.09 amperes. For peace of mind and guarantee, the amperage of the circuit breakers should slightly exceed the calculated load, and by installing a 16-amp circuit breaker to connect a water heater with a power of 2 kilowatts, we will just fulfill this condition. For a group of sockets on one line, we also calculate the choice of machine - we sum up the maximum possible power of consumers and make a decision.

Let's move on to a single-line diagram, on which the designers indicated all the parameters for wiring electrical networks in this wooden house.

Below is a fragment of this diagram.

Input cable VVG 5 x 4 (5 copper cores, 4 sq. mm each); L = 6 m - its length from the point of connection with the cable from the supply pole to the entrance to the switchboard - 6 m - in our case, since the house is wooden, it penetrates into the house through the outer wall, exclusively in a steel pipe.
VA 47-29 C 25 A - an input circuit breaker or circuit breaker, powered from the VVG 5 x 4 input cable, that is, the ground and zero pass by, and three phases (in this case 3-phase input) are connected to this circuit breaker and continue on their way.

The surge suppressor - OPS1 S/4 - is used to protect internal distribution circuits of public and residential buildings from switching and lightning surge surges. After the input circuit breaker, it is connected in parallel, and not in series, to three phases, and also, zero passes through it and, as we see from the diagram, one contact goes to PE - ground.

Connection diagram for Trio meter 5 (50) A

The RCD or VD-1 IEK turns off the voltage in the network during a current leakage, i.e. prevents us from getting an electric shock if the insulation on a wire is broken or if there is a breakdown on the body of a household appliance. It is connected in series, after the meter - 3 phases and zero pass through it. Next, zero goes to its zero bus, and one of the phases goes to single-phase circuit breakers that protect consumer groups, which we discussed above.

In this fragment, L is phase, N is zero and PE is ground.
Switching RCD with phases.
Here we see that to group 1 - “lighting of the first floor, zero and ground pass through in transit, and the phase, in parallel to the VA 47 - 29 / V 10 A machine - according to the same principle, the remaining machines are connected, protecting their groups and lines. Also, in this fragment we see that the power of the machines, depending on the groups feeding through them, varies in some places - we talked about the choice of machines above.

It is important to understand that when constructing an electrical panel, the bolted connections of machines and other equipment must be carefully tightened so that the contact is good. Poor contact leads to heating, and as a result, fire.

A phase coming from a common core through a circuit breaker to its group.
Zero or neutral – follows in transit from the zero bus to its group.
The earth also follows in transit from the earth bus to its group.

In this figure we see which machine has which wire and what it powers.

In this group, VVG ng 3 x 1.5 cable is used for lighting.
It is shown what each of the groups and lines feeds.
Which group does the supply wire belong to?
Explanation – what and where is powered in each of the groups/lines.

This is what we got.

Input machine – VA 47-29 C 25 A.
Surge suppressor – OPS1 S/4.
Counter Trio" 5(50)A.
RCD - VD-1 IEK.
Group 1-phase automatic machines.
Backup 3-phase circuit breakers - not currently in use.

Laying wires, installing sockets and lamps in a wooden house

From the switchboard, the wires through the machines are distributed to their places to power consumers. What is special about laying electrical wires in a wooden house?

If we are talking about hidden wiring, then you will have to run all the wires in a metal pipe. Hidden cup holders must also be non-flammable and silent. When choosing a pipe diameter, be guided by filling the pipe diameter with a wire or group of wires, no more than 40%.

When laying electrical cables openly, the requirements are not so stringent. The wires are laid in plastic cable channels. The metal cable pipe must pass through wooden walls and ceilings. Under all places for switching wires - junction boxes, cup holders, lamps and sockets, fireproof pads with a thickness of at least 10 mm are laid; in our case, asbestos-cement ones were used.

Wires entering through the wall in a metal, steel pipe from the room where the switchboard is located into the room where the kitchen and room are located.
Junction box.

In junction boxes, wires of one or different groups break off to power an electrical point located in the immediate vicinity, and continue on their way. Wire connections in the junction box are usually made with twists, but you can also use terminals. In any case, the connections must be carefully crimped (when twisted), or tightened (when connected using terminals). The best option is to solder or crimp the connection points of the wires in the junction box using pliers.

Asbestos-cement linings under the junction box and lamp.
Cable channels.
A plastic corrugated pipe is like a curved continuation of a cable channel.

Steel pipes for passing wires through walls.
Asbestos cement linings.
Cable channels.

A metal pipe in the wall for laying wires in a plastic corrugated pipe.

Junction box.
Asbestos cement lining.
Cable channel.
Corrugated pipe.
Asbestos cement lining.
Double socket.