How to lay plinth bricks correctly. Let's look at how to properly lay out a brick plinth. Lay out the bottom row of the wall between the corners

When it comes to foundations, most people immediately imagine a strip foundation.

And not in vain, because tape is the basic type, the most successful and reliable support structure.

No type of foundation can demonstrate such a combination of qualities, economy and simplicity as.

It has several design options that expand the capabilities of the base and allow you to obtain the optimal option for given conditions.

Let's consider one of the specific working moments that arise when using tape - the creation of a brick plinth.

The brick plinth has the following advantages:

• Assembly from piece materials is slower, but does not require curing time for the material, so it is ultimately much faster than concrete casting.
• The brick plinth allows you to correct shortcomings made during the casting of the tape. In particular, you can correct the shape, align the corners, etc.
• An intermediate layer appears between the walls and the tape, allowing you to redistribute the load and more evenly transfer it to the tape.
• Brick has certain thermal insulation abilities that make it possible to improve the microclimate of the zero level or first floor.

The disadvantages include:

• Brick can absorb moisture, which creates problems for the structure of the entire house and requires appropriate measures to be taken.
• Bricklaying is a labor-intensive process that requires skill and experience.
• The load-bearing capacity of brick is lower than that of concrete casting.
• A large number of connecting seams significantly weakens the masonry, making the base vulnerable to mechanical stress and moisture.

Both advantages and disadvantages directly follow from the properties of brick, so they should be considered typical features of a building material.

Types of bricks and which one is most optimal

There are many varieties of brick blocks, but not all are suitable for laying a basement.

For example, sand-lime brick, although visually attractive, cannot be used for the construction of a basement due to low load-bearing capacity and high hygroscopicity.

These two qualities are unacceptable for the base, since this element takes on almost the full weight of the house and rainwater from the surface of the walls.

The best material option would be solid ceramic brick. It has the most successful combination of quality, price and performance indicators.

Some sources indicate clinker brick as a suitable option. This is a highly controversial option.

The fact is that clinker practically does not absorb water..

This is both an advantage and a disadvantage of the material, since for high-quality adhesion to masonry mortar it is necessary that the material be able to absorb moisture. Otherwise, the strength of the connection disappears, and the seams begin to have an adverse effect.

They absorb moisture, which freezes and expands, destroying the masonry.

How to calculate the number of bricks

The amount of material is calculated based on the parameters of the base.

Its height is always a multiple of an integer number of rows, and corresponds to conventional types of masonry:

• Half a brick (120 mm). For 1 m2 of masonry (including seams) 51 pieces of standard single brick are needed.
• In brick (250 mm). 102 bricks per 1 m2.
• One and a half bricks (380 mm). 153 pcs/m2.
• In two bricks (510 mm) 204 pcs/m2, etc.

The required amount of brick can be calculated based on the area of ​​the tape, guided by the given standards.

You can approach the issue differently and count the number of briquettes individually by dividing the length of the tape by the length of one piece and multiplying by the number of bricks in the thickness of the masonry and then multiplying by the number of rows.

For those who do not have the time or desire to do calculations, an online calculator can be useful.

There are many of them, they all operate on the same principle - enter your own data into the appropriate boxes- tape length, width, other initial data.

The result is the desired value, taking into account the size and other features of the selected type of brick.

In any case, the obtained result should be increased by 15-20% in order to compensate for losses from poor-quality cutting, breaking or other unproductive costs of the material.

Selecting width and height

The width of the base is a parameter related to the thickness of the tape and walls of the house.

There are three options:

• Speaker. It is thicker than the walls, so rain moisture flows directly onto it. This contributes to the destruction of the base and requires the installation of a protective canopy and sheathing.
• Built flush with the walls. It is a continuation of the external walls, but when installing the sheathing, the thickness increases and makes it protruding.
• Recessed type of base. Its thickness is smaller, which allows, when installing the sheathing, to level the plane of the wall and base, forming harmoniously combined surfaces.

The choice of the most suitable option is made by comparing the load-bearing capacity of the material and the thickness of the base, to what extent it allows masonry of a given thickness.

The height of the plinth is a subject of constant debate and debate.

The main criteria for choosing height are:

• Maximum depth of snow cover in recent years.
• Floor level of the first floor (zero level).

For regions with snowy winters, the height of the snow cover is a significant factor, since when melting begins, a low base can cause the walls to get wet.

The floor level of the first floor is a technologically justified reference point, allowing you to simplify construction work and avoid unnecessary measures.

Types of masonry

There are many types of masonry, having decorative or purely practical significance.

The choice of the most suitable option is primarily determined by the thickness of the base.

Since there are no half-brick plinths, the minimum option is brick laying. The main element of the masonry is dressing, i.e. placing bricks in such a way that all seams intersect with solid briquettes.

The most famous method of tying is the usual spoon masonry, but it does not allow outer and inner rows to be tied together.

Therefore, chain masonry is most often used, when one row of bricks is laid using the usual spoon method, and the other row is laid using a bonded method, i.e. consisting of bricks laid across the axis of the wall.

NOTE!

When using chain masonry, there are special rules that require butting the first and last rows, protruding elements or areas located directly under the beams.

General construction scheme

Procedure for laying a brick plinth:

• Preparation of the surface of the tape, waterproofing, installation of the mooring cord.
• Laying the first row of bricks.
• Raising corner areas.
• Filling gaps between corners.
• Laying the top row, waterproofing the surface of the plinth.

Depending on the design features of the house, some additional actions may be required, for example, laying out curved sections of the base, etc.

Such work is carried out according to a special technique adopted for similar elements.

Preparing the solution

This procedure is designed to eliminate the possibility of moisture being absorbed from the concrete into the brick, which is dangerous and threatens the rapid destruction of the base.

A double layer of high-quality roofing material is traditionally used as waterproofing., with intermediate application of bitumen mastic.

There are many other options, but roofing felt is the cheapest, most durable and easiest to work material, therefore preference is usually given to it.

Laying the first row

The first row of bricks is installed in a butted (transverse) position along the length of the base.

This is an incorrect proposal. The solution has sufficient adhesion to roofing felt.

In addition, a layer of mortar will allow you to straighten a row of bricks that do not always have ideal dimensions.

Vertical joints also require a bond, which is difficult to create without using mortar. The layer of solution will lie as tightly as possible on the surface, which will distribute the load in an optimal way and avoid the appearance of weak “hanging” areas.

Finally, the presence of the solution will allow the reinforcing mesh to be closed, creating a strong and even base for brickwork.

Facing

Procedure:

• The bricks are evenly laid out in stacks along the entire length of the belt to reduce the time it takes to deliver the material during masonry.
• The prepared solution is placed in a container convenient for moving with the mason.
• All necessary tools are prepared (or purchased) - trowel, trowel, pick, ordering, etc.
• Brick laying is carried out according to the planned pattern.

To obtain high-quality masonry, you must be careful and constantly monitor the process using a tensioned cord.

How to get around corners

Brick laying begins with laying out the corners. Usually they are raised several rows (4-6), after which they are laid out at intervals.

First, the corners are laid without mortar in order to check the accuracy of right angles, determine the horizontal and other parameters (try-on layout). After this, control cords are installed and the corners are laid out using a solution.

All bricks at the corners must be tied together; two vertical seams on top of each other are not allowed.

It is important to check the uniformity of the diagonals of the plinth, which indicates the accuracy of the right angles of the structure.

Arrangement of the blind area

The blind area is a concrete casting poured over the ground, adjacent to the outer wall of the strip or plinth.

It is up to 60 cm wide (or slightly larger than the roof overhang). Typically, formwork is installed, which is a series of vertically installed boards.

A reinforcing mesh is placed between the wall and the formwork, strengthening and protecting it from the formation of cracks.

A properly made blind area protects the sinuses of the backfilled trench from the penetration of rain or melt water, eliminating contact of the tape with moisture.

Final stages

After laying the top row of the plinth, the surface is covered with a final layer of mortar and carefully leveled.

When it dries , a layer of waterproofing is laid on the surface, the same as on the surface of the tape before laying the brick.

In addition, procedures are carried out for installing the protective cladding of the base. Wherever necessary, vents, technological openings for supplying communications, canopies for moisture drainage, etc. are installed.

Useful video

In this section you can familiarize yourself with brick plinths on a strip foundation, how to cover the plinth, as well as expanded clay concrete blocks:

Conclusion

A brick plinth is a common element of home construction.

It allows you to reduce the height of the tape, distribute the load from the external walls of the house and provide reliable cutoff from moisture, preventing capillary absorption of water from layers of soil or wet concrete.

When performing work, you should act strictly according to the rules, constantly monitor the position of the bricks, the horizontal position and the correspondence of the length of the diagonals.

Compliance with the technology requirements will allow you to obtain a high-quality and durable brick plinth.

In contact with

First, let's prepare all the necessary tools and materials for the upcoming work.

Tools:

• Trowel (trowel)
• Pick hammer
• Shovel
• Joining
• Order
• Cord mooring
• Hydraulic level
• Plumb
• Building level
• 2 templates: metal rod 10x10mm and 12x12mm
• Concrete mixer or trough
• Gloves

Materials

• Brick
• For mortar: cement, sand, plasticizer or lime or Fairy
• Masonry mesh for reinforcement

Preparatory work. Foundation

So, let's begin. We have a rectangular strip foundation on which we will build a half-brick wall.

Checking the horizontalness of the foundation with a hydraulic level

First, we need to determine how level the horizontal surface of the foundation is relative to the ground level? For this purpose, we will use a hydraulic level and check first the corners, and then the entire perimeter of the foundation. (When filling the hydraulic level with water, make sure that there are no bubbles in the tube, otherwise the measurements may not be accurate).

In the figure we see that both corners are at the same level. As the masters say, “it is at zero.” But this method of measurement cannot be used if our foundation has discrepancies relative to the level. So let's move on to a more practical method.

Let’s lower the 1st flask of the hydraulic level relative to the foundation so that the “0” mark is 5 cm below the upper surface of the foundation (with the condition that the maximum difference across the foundation at the maximum point is slightly less than 5 cm). Opposite the “0” mark on the flask we place a mark on the foundation. We will not touch this flask now. First, let's check all the outer corners of the foundation, in our case there are 4 of them. To do this, we will move the 2nd flask to all 3 corners, and put a mark on the foundation opposite the “0” mark, which is on the 2nd flask. Then we repeat the steps with the 2nd flask, transferring it to other measured points on the foundation.

When we have placed all the marks, we begin to measure the distances between the mark on the foundation and the upper edge of the foundation. In the figure we measured the distance on two segments: a and b. Let's assume the distance a =5cm and b =5cm (a =b). Consequently, the foundation at these points is set to “0”.

Second option a =5cm, b =3cm. Therefore, there is a difference relative to zero of 2 cm. Such a foundation needs to be leveled, and we take the highest point on the foundation as zero. You can align in several ways:

• leveling screed on cement-sand mortar using formwork,
• brickwork, changing the thickness of the horizontal seam.

If the difference is large, then it is better to level it using mortar; if it is small, then using masonry. Just remember that the permissible horizontal seam thickness according to SNiP should be 12 mm with a tolerance of +3, -2 mm (according to SNiP 3.03.01-87). When reinforcing, the maximum thickness of the seam should not exceed 16mm. And just for reference: the permitted permissible deviation from the horizontal per 10m of masonry is up to 15mm, which is then eliminated by the next row.

Checking the diagonals of the foundation

The second important point when checking the foundation is to pay attention to the diagonals. Ideally, the diagonals in a rectangular foundation should coincide. According to the figure, we displayed the coincidence of the diagonals in a small equality D 1 = D 2. If they are equal, we can judge that all our parallel sides have the same length and all 4 angles are at 90 degrees. These conditions are important to us so that our walls turn out smooth.

If there is a slight discrepancy in the diagonals, then this inaccuracy can be compensated for during laying by reducing the long side and increasing the short side. Of course, if the thickness of the foundation and the thickness of the masonry allow us to do this.

Waterproofing

After we have sorted out the foundation measurements, we move on to the next stage: waterproofing the upper part of the foundation. It is performed using 2 layers of roofing material. The second layer is laid with the seams of the first overlapping by 10 - 15 cm. Ruberoid can be laid in several ways:

• dry, I temporarily press the roofing felt to the foundation with bricks (so as not to be blown away by the wind);
• on bitumen mastic or heated bitumen;
• gluing by heating the surface of the roofing material with a burner.

Modern roofing felt has several modifications: rubemast, glass roofing felt (stekloizol), euroroofing felt. In terms of their characteristics, they are superior to ordinary roofing felt, but their price is higher. The TechnoNIKOL company offers a wide selection of roll waterproofing.

Why do you need to waterproof the foundation before brickwork?? It's simple - so that moisture from the foundation does not move into the basement or brick walls. Moisture can be not only due to rain and melting snow, but also simply from capillary suction of water from the ground by our foundation. Moreover, if we have a brick base and brick walls, then we will need to waterproof it twice:

• between the foundation and the plinth;
• between the plinth and the brick wall.

Layout of the first row and marking of the foundation

The next step is laying out the first row of bricks dry, that is, without using mortar.

What is it for? Masonry is considered ideal when the walls are laid with whole bricks (without three-quarters, halves, and especially quarters). Of course, the laying of the corners is not taken into account, since there are brick shares needed for ligation, and backfills where brick shares can be used. We are mainly talking about the facing masonry, which should, as they say, “please the eye.” Therefore, at this stage we will dry lay out the entire first row along the entire perimeter with vertical seams of 10mm. In order for the seam to be the same everywhere, we will use a template (metal square rod 10x10mm). If, as a result of the layout, we see that the last intact brick does not reach the edge of the foundation, or, on the contrary, the brick hangs over the foundation, then we can reduce or increase the width of the vertical seam. According to SNiP (3-03-01-87), the tolerance for vertical seams is +-2mm. If you really can’t do without a brick share, then prepare it right away and determine where to place it. We also need to take into account that if we lay a facing brick over the plinth, then we can make a small extension of the outer mile beyond the edges of the plinth, since the plinth will be plastered in the future.

After we have laid the entire row, we need to make marks on the foundation (or base) where the vertical seams will go. Due to the fact that each brick has small errors from the standard dimensions, it is recommended to use during laying exactly the same brick that we used during dry laying. Therefore, after marking, simply place each brick on the foundation opposite the marks. At the same time, if your roofing material is laid dry, just press it temporarily to the foundation with a brick.

Preparing the brick and workplace

Do not forget that it is advisable to use the solution within 1-3 hours until it begins to set. Therefore, it is advisable to complete all preparatory work before preparing the solution, namely:

• Place small stacks of bricks along the foundation. If the width of the foundation allows, the brick can be placed directly on the foundation. The main thing is that it does not interfere with you when laying and at the same time you can easily reach it.
• Prepare the necessary tools for the job.

There is one more type of work that is recommended to be done mainly when working with red solid brick. Namely, moisten the brick with water. Just not until it is completely saturated with water, otherwise the brick will float on the mortar. Then the logical question is how long to wet the brick. Experienced masons, based on voting results on one popular forum, divide this opinion into the following proportions:

• do not wet 10%,
• soak for a couple of seconds 50%
• soak for 15 minutes 40%

Decide for yourself which method to choose, but if you are new to bricklaying, we recommend soaking it for a while. The soaked brick retains its mobility on the mortar for a fairly long time, thereby giving you the opportunity to eliminate possible defects. It is believed that the seam when using soaked brick is stronger, since moisture is not sucked out of the mortar by the brick itself. If you are too lazy to soak the brick in water, then there is a simple way - just pour the brick generously with a garden hose. www.site

Preparation of the solution

To lay bricks we need cement-sand mortar. To prepare it we will use the following ratio:

• 1 share of cement (shovel, bucket, kg)
• 4 shares of sand (shovel, bucket, kg)
• lime or plasticizer or liquid soap (Fairy)
• water (by eye).

The ratio of cement to sand may differ depending on the characteristics of the cement-sand mortar we need (1 share of cement to 2.5-6 shares of sand). A plasticizer is added to give the solution plasticity. This characteristic is important for comfortable work during laying.

How to cook?

1. We take a container for mixing the solution. Ideally, it is better to use a concrete mixer. If it is not there, then any container convenient for these purposes (trough, etc.) will do.
2. We put 4 shovels of sand into the concrete mixer, and then 1 shovel of cement. Mix.
3. We add water by eye to obtain the consistency we need. At the same time, add 2-3 drops of Fairy (either plasticizer or lime) previously diluted in a small amount of water. Mix thoroughly.

The solution should resemble thick honey or cottage cheese, depending on what kind of solution we need.

You can also use our calculator to calculate the composition of the solution and count the number of batches for a concrete mixer:

Brick laying process

We start laying from the corners, the rows of which are placed opposite each other at the same level. Why from the corners? Because the corners will serve as guidelines along which the walls will be laid out using a mooring cord. The cord is stretched between 2 adjacent rows of bricks that make up the corner. Therefore, it is very important to maintain horizontal and vertical angles running at the same level opposite each other.

First of all, you need to prepare the so-called “bed” from the solution. If you don’t have much experience, we recommend putting the mortar on one brick that you are going to lay. The thickness of the laid mortar should be somewhere around 20-25mm (by eye), so that when pressing the brick, the thickness of the horizontal seam becomes 12mm (standard horizontal seam). Apply the solution with a trowel. Our bed should not reach the edge of the foundation (or the underlying brick) by 20-30mm if we are going to open the seams, or 10-15mm if we are going to trim them. In order to get the 12 mm seam we need, we can use a template (12x12mm metal rod), which we lay along the very edge of the foundation in the place where we will lay the brick. We will need a rod template before installing the order. Then, to maintain the thickness of the horizontal seam, it will be possible to use divisions in order. Using the marks on the foundation, we control the location of the vertical seams of the first row.

Let's move on to the process of laying bricks on the mortar. We take a brick, place it on the bed and lightly press it down. Then, using a level, we check the horizon and vertical in 3 directions and if we see discrepancies somewhere, lightly knock the brick with a pick-hammer or the handle of a trowel.

Making corners

Now, using the knowledge gained, we set the corners brick by brick. The main thing is not to forget that the quality of the masonry of the entire wall will largely depend on how correctly the corners are set. Therefore, we use both an eye and devices that will help us in setting angles.

Using a plumb line, we check the verticality of the masonry. A plumb line is considered a very accurate device for checking the verticality of a surface. Probably the simplest and most accurate compared to the building level, which can sometimes fail. There is no point in using a plumb line when we have 1-2 rows of masonry laid, since it is difficult to determine by eye the discrepancy from the vertical in such a small area.

In the picture we have displayed 3 points equally distant from the masonry. Based on the fact that the distances in these segments are equal, we can conclude that our masonry is laid out exactly vertically. To work with a plumb line, you, of course, need to have a good eye, since we determine all the distances between the masonry and the plumb line visually, by eye.

To maintain identical horizontal seams and to control the horizontalness of the masonry, we recommend using rows. They will be especially useful for people with little experience in bricklaying. The orders are established strictly vertically (plumb or level) and are attached to the masonry using U-shaped brackets. The distance between the order divisions is 77mm for a single brick (brick thickness 65mm + seam 12mm) and 100mm for thickened bricks (88mm + 12mm).

We stretch the cord to the mooring

After removing the corners, you can proceed directly to laying the wall. In order for the entire row to be at the same level, we pull the mooring cord between two opposite rows, which we have laid out in the same horizontal line. For mooring, you can use either nylon thread, fishing line, or an analogue. The main thing is that it is durable and visible to you when laying. The mooring can be attached:

• to order, if there are holes in it;
• using staples and nails.

We have shown both methods in the figures.

The mooring is attached with a vertical indentation of 2-3 mm from the masonry, so that there is no contact of the mooring with the brick along its entire length.

If the mooring does not have holes, then you can follow the simple and most common way to install the mooring. To do this we need 1 nail and 1 staple for 1 corner. We insert the nail into the finished seam and tie a mooring to it. Then we insert the mooring into the bracket. We place the bracket with the mooring threaded through it on the brick along which we will make a row and press the bracket with a free-lying brick on top (without mortar). The staple can be a rigid wire bent in half. The figure shows in detail how this will look visually.

If the berth sags, then you need to install so-called beacons. For this purpose, 2 bricks are taken. The first is placed, taking into account the thickness of the seam, on a mortar or rod template (12x12mm), and the second is placed with a poke on the first brick. We insert a nail between the bricks, onto which the mooring is wound tightly.

Lay out the bottom row of the wall between the corners

Along the stretched mooring we place the first row of bricks between the two corners. The thickness of the vertical joints and the location of the bricks are controlled by the risks on the foundation.

Lay out the remaining rows

Then we lay the remaining rows using the same principle with bandaging of the seams (in our case, bandaging in half a brick). At the same time, we no longer place risks like on the foundation for the first row, but we make sure that the vertical seams across the row are at the same level. In the picture, this is an example of seams in the 1st and 3rd rows. You will find more detailed information about the types and methods of ligating sutures in our article "".

Further, according to this principle, all the walls of our building are exposed. Don’t forget to keep the face of the masonry clean and unstitch the seams until the mortar sets. Also, if reinforcement of the masonry is necessary, we determine how many rows we will do it (usually every 5-6 rows). © www.site

Masonry reinforcement

That's all. If you missed something or have questions, you can ask them in the comments.

Construction Materials

Peter Kravets

Reading time: 3 minutes

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The ground floor is the main part of the building, which is located directly on the foundation and is the transition from the base of the building to its walls. In addition to its own specified strength value, the basement must withstand the load of the entire building.

Located in the most vulnerable location to environmental influences, it must be stable and reliable, which implies the need for careful planning of materials for its construction and protection.

The plinth belt is made from rubble stone, from building blocks, reinforced concrete, or from brick with your own hands. The brick option is most often chosen for construction due to its environmental friendliness, affordability and characteristics of the material itself.

It is quite durable and has low thermal conductivity.

In order for brick basement walls to maintain their reliability for many years, all construction work must be strictly controlled to ensure compliance with many rules. But the first main condition is to choose the right type of material for construction.

Materials for the construction of a brick plinth

If you need to purchase building material to build a basement, then you should figure out which one is needed for such purposes. Not every type can be used according to its properties, since different materials for its manufacture are intended for different purposes.

So, one type can be used only for external walls, another - for laying a stove and fireplace, the third allows you to make stone cladding with your own hands, for internal partitions, and so on.

Sand-lime brick

So, sand-lime brick, so beautiful in appearance and in different colors, cannot be used for the base, only for internal walls or partitions in the room. It is not resistant to moisture, and the proximity of basements to water will provide it in abundance.

Ceramic brick

Ceramic brick can be called the best option for the construction of basement walls, as well as for the construction of the walls of the building itself or for facing work on the outside.

It is made from a carefully calibrated mixture of quartz sand and clay, and through the process of firing at high temperatures received the necessary strength and water resistance.

The best option for laying a plinth is a brick of grade M150 and higher - it has high strength at an affordable price. There is also a drawback - it does not tolerate moisture well, absorbing it into the structure.

Such unprotected material quickly becomes filled with moisture, freezes during frosts, and in this case, cracks may appear in the structure, which will weaken the load-bearing functions of the walls.

The life cycle, that is, serviceability, of such a brick is only about 55-60 cycles. In order to increase this figure, it is necessary to additionally protect the walls of the basement with cladding or plaster.

The M250 grade material is more practical because it is made from types of clay that have plasticity. And after proper firing, its resistance to external influences is much higher; in some cases it can be used even without additional lining for protection.

In this case, the laying of the base is done with jointing. This material has proven itself especially well in regions where humidity is high.

Features of material marking

The suitability of a species is indicated by its marking, or more precisely, by the numerical load indicator in kilograms per square centimeter. This is the weight of the structure that the material can withstand without destruction. So, the M100 brand says that the material is suitable for the internal walls of a small building, but not for the basement of a structure with more than 2 storeys.

There are also differences in frost resistance. This designation is indicated by the letter F and the numerical value of the number of deep-freeze cycles. In the case of building a basement, you need to choose a larger indicator.

According to geometric parameters, single, double or one-and-a-half designs are possible. The structure is solid and hollow.

Solid brick

It is distinguished by a single structure and high density, which increases its thermal conductivity. When constructing plinths and other elements of the building, it is necessary to additionally insulate it.

Hollow brick

It has a certain number of voids and holes in its structure. It has low thermal conductivity and can be used for external walls of a building. The density of this material is not high, which provides advantages during its transportation and installation work.

Good for the construction of one-story houses, cottages, buildings. But for plinths of multi-storey structures it is better to use the solid type due to its resistance to loads.

It is necessary to further study the characteristics of the purchased material. The percentage of voids varies in some cases from 12 to 50%. This spread provides a lot of options for its use, so you should choose a value that is acceptable for specific purposes.

Calculation of the amount of bricks for basement walls

When drawing up an estimate for the construction of a basement, you need to know exactly where to start the work - by calculating the thickness of the walls, their height and length. For this purpose, the quantity of bricks required for these purposes is also calculated. This is quite simple to do, given the linearity of the dimensions of the selected material.

When calculating, not only the dimensions of the brick itself are taken into account, but also the seams during laying, usually another +10 mm. Thus, the typical value will be 260*130*75 mm, taking into account the reinforcing mesh and seams.

There are a couple of things to note about the thickness of the plinth walls. When it comes to brickwork, it is considered normal to use the terms “half-brick masonry”, “2-brick masonry”, etc. Knowing the linear dimensions of one unit, it is easy to calculate the thickness of the masonry.

The values ​​will change with a difference of half a building unit – that is, 120 mm, 250 mm, 380 mm…. Since the dimensions of the hollow and solid versions are different, you should first decide on the choice of material, and only then carry out the calculations.

Do not forget about some reserve - from 5 to 15% are allocated for this. These precautions are necessary to ensure that the construction process does not stall due to a lack of building elements.

Important! When making calculations, it should be taken into account that the length of the plinth is taken from the outside of the building, internal partitions are already included in it, and the angles are calculated immediately, since this affects the total volume of masonry materials.

Mortar for laying plinth walls

For the strength of the structure being built, the mortar used to connect the bricks is very important. The best in this regard is Portland cement, starting from grade 300 and above, fine sand and lime, sometimes with the addition of clay.

The consistency of the solution itself should be homogeneous and plastic; a construction sieve with small cells can help with this. Kneading is done using a mixer for construction work or with a drill attachment.

When creating a laying solution, the soil moisture at the construction site is very important. They also follow the basic rule - all ingredients of the solution must be of the same brand strength.

Features of arranging a brick plinth

Before starting the construction of brick walls of the basement, it is necessary to take into account some points when planning:

• Brickwork must be done on a layer of waterproofing above the strip foundation - this will protect the material from capillary moisture. You can use roofing felt in two layers for protection or its analogues.
• The brick is laid flat so that each subsequent rad overlaps the seams of the row below it. Moreover, using a level, horizontal evenness is monitored in rows.

The base can be:

• Wider than the thickness of the building, protruding as a step beyond its limits;
• in a single line, flush with the wall;
• The sinking appearance is significantly less than the thickness of the wall.

Brick plinth laying

After the mandatory flooring and installation of waterproofing, they proceed to marking the basement masonry. The markings must include checking the diagonals - they must be the same length, otherwise the house may be skewed in one direction.

If the diagonals do not coincide and are not equal, it is necessary to eliminate the defects using masonry.

This is usually not very easy to do. Marking begins from the corners of the belt, measuring the location of the diagonals and marking key points with crayons and construction tapes.

In most cases, laying the plinth begins precisely from the corners of the building, gradually moving inside the wall. The first row is laid only up to the adjacent corner, after which the exact angle of 90 degrees is marked, then it is done by analogy.

To avoid tilting the walls, metal corners are installed exactly plumb, with the help of which the height of the base is set.

They mark each level of the basement being built. A special cord is pulled along these markings to guide the installation work. As soon as the row is completed, the cord is moved to a higher level.

Having finished the wall, move the vertical corner to the diagonally opposite one and continue to build the wall.

If the plinth belt is made for a bulky structure, then it is necessary to use additional reinforcement to give greater strength. The size of the mesh cells is 0.5*0.5 cm.

The mesh is applied in front of the mortar, so that it does not move, it is secured with wire along the fastenings in the mortar of the seams between the bricks.

When laying, it is necessary to carefully adjust the space between the bricks, filling all the seams with mortar of the same thickness. If any questions arise during the work process, you can seek help from specialists, or watch videos of such work in the public domain.

Do not forget about ventilation ducts measuring 15*15 or 20*20 cm, located at a height of 15 cm in increments of 3 m. All openings are covered with grilles with small cells. If ventilation is not provided, dampness will form inside the basement and mold or mildew may appear.

Waterproofing a brick plinth

Protecting the basement with a basement or cellar from water is one of the most important tasks on which the reliability of the building in operation, its warmth and dryness of the premises depend. Waterproofing can be done vertical or horizontal.

Vertical basement waterproofing

This type of insulation consists of applying waterproof compounds or roll materials to the foundation material or to the side surfaces of the walls. This will provide reliable protection against water penetration through the joints between bricks. Vertical application can be of the following types:

Coloring

The essence of the method is to spray varnishes or paints on the surface of the walls. The main advantage is the ease of working with such material and the thinness of the applied layer. Among the shortcomings, we note the short shelf life of the coating and the need for repair and restoration work.

Coating insulation

Coating protection is made with a dense bitumen composition based on liquid glass or cement-based mixtures, which, when dry, become a crust on the wall, reliably protecting against water. Such coatings are particularly elastic, but are not resistant to mechanical stress; to avoid this, you need to make a decorative lining.

The base occupies an intermediate position between the foundation and the walls. It must protect them from moisture and withstand the load of the entire structure, furniture and equipment installed in the building. Last year, my friend and I did the necessary excavation work and laid the foundation for the future house. Now, in his free time, he lays a brick plinth on the foundation.

Bricks for masonry of the second row

Vadik, the owner of the future cottage, is an economist. He is interested in all the ways to reduce costs. When purchasing a plot and designing it, he decided to test his professional knowledge in practice. Having heard that it was cheaper to do it yourself, I decided to master the profession of a laborer and replace training in the gym with useful physical labor.

Brick plinth on strip foundation

It is better to choose baked brick. Its technical indicators for various properties and, in particular, stability are much higher

On the strip foundation, a support layer is made for the walls from different materials, from poured reinforced concrete to stone. The red brick for the plinth combines:

• required strength;
• simplicity of brickwork;
• low thermal conductivity;
• budget cost.

With a little skill and patience, you can lay out a plinth with your own hands in a few days. To protect the walls from moisture, waterproofing is done during the construction of the basement. You can lubricate the surface of the foundation with heated bitumen in several layers. This takes a long time, since you need to wait for the applied material to harden and only then spread the next one on the surface.

It is better to use roofing felt in 2 layers. The strips are cut according to the width of the base, plus 4-5 centimeters. They are fastened with bitumen glue and fixed to the surface of the foundation. You can make the mixture yourself or use a ready-made one bought in a store. I added washed river sand to the heated bitumen. My friend mixed everything well.

Checking the dimensions and geometry of the foundation for the plinth

Bassoon base

Before starting work, I decided to check the strip foundation. Time passed after it was filled. It could shrink, washed away by rainwater. Unevenness of the base plane will lead to the distortion of the entire house and constant repair of walls and ceilings. Measurements are carried out using a ruler level, tape measure and cord.

1. I measured the strip foundation using a rack level along and across in several places. It is better to do this in the corners and every 2 meters in length. By placing a long device, it is easy to determine the presence of a slope. If you only have a corner level with short sides, place a board underneath.
2. On the foundation in the corners I laid dry brick along the outer edge. Then, with the help of Vadik, I checked the diagonal. A regular rectangle has the same cord size from corner to corner. If the lengths are different, then the angles are not right. For a brick base of a residential building, a difference in the length of the diagonals of up to 2 centimeters is permissible.
3. Find the distortion and check the dimensions better with a tape measure. We measured in the corners. The foundation was poured without formwork. The outer walls are uneven. Brick simplifies measurements.

Having adjusted the dimensions by shifting the corners, we checked the diagonals again with a cord. I then marked the position of the brick base. Now, having pulled the cord and secured it to the pegs, I marked the outer side of the walls. All that remains is to lay out the brick base. I was confident that the geometry of the house frame was correct.

My friend applied glue to the top of the strip foundation with his own hands and laid layers of prepared roofing material connected together with a bitumen mixture. The bottom waterproofing is ready. The walls will not become damp from moisture from the soil. Under the brick, for waterproofing, I laid a layer of cement mortar 2 cm thick. It will serve as a cushion and compensate for unevenness. For strength, I embedded a metal mesh with a 50 mm mesh in it, cutting it slightly narrower in width than the base.

Brick laying pattern and plinth width

Brick base

We began preparing the ditch for the strip foundation after completing the house project. Then I knew exactly what the width of the brick plinth should be, based on the calculated loads. The weight of a two-story brick building is large. If the masonry is narrow - 250 mm, then the brick for the plinth may not withstand it. Cracks will form on the walls. Repairing and strengthening a house will cost more than construction.

How wide the foundation should be is determined by laying the base. Standard brick dimensions are 250x120x50 mm. The minimum size can be laid out by alternating rows with transverse laying in one row and longitudinal laying in two. Such a foundation is made for lightweight houses made of wood, foam concrete, and shell rock. For walls made of wood and light material for cottages with 2 floors, one and a half bricks (380 mm) are suitable. Vadik plans 2 levels, a residential attic with insulation. It is better to use wide masonry for a brick plinth in two rows (520 mm). House repairs will need to be done with this foundation in about 15 years.

It’s easy to determine the width of the finished plinth. 10 mm is added to the dimensions of the brick for each seam. I did alternating rows:

• two rows of bricks across the foundation;
• the outer and inner rows are lengthwise, the middle is filled with artificial stones laid transversely.

Such a base guaranteed stability for a multi-story building made of heavy building material. Repairs to the exterior of the basement may be required after a few years.

Selection of materials for a ceramic brick plinth

Silicate blocks can only be used in dry climates

While buying a brick, Vadik asked me which one to buy and why. I advised him solid. When temperatures change, especially in winter, condensation appears in the holes - dew. Moisture accumulates, is absorbed into the material and destroys the base. In just a few years it will need repairs. A practicing economist, Vadik, was interested in a cheaper way to build a brick plinth. I told him about the possibility of using used material. When dismantling buildings and demolishing partitions, if major repairs are being done, the walls are broken. The brick is cleaned of old mortar and placed tightly in the base, choosing the least damaged one for the outer rows. In terms of strength, such a foundation is inferior to one laid out of new stone, with the correct geometry. The load on it is reduced. Do-it-yourself styling is difficult for a beginner. You must constantly check the level and select pieces of brick of the required size.

I used M-75 cement mortar as a binding material. My friend did it in a concrete mixer. Loaded into it:

• cement;
• sand;
• milk of lime;
• After stirring, add water.

The proportions depend on the brand of cement. For example: for one bucket of Portland cement M500, add 0.8 liters of lime, diluted in water to the state of milk. Sand 7 buckets. Water is added in parts for the first time and its proportion in the mixture is determined. The solution should stay on the trowel in a heap and not slide off the inclined plane.

Tip: Lime should not exceed 10% of the volume in the dry mixture. It is better to introduce it already slaked and dissolved in water - milk of lime. For builders without experience who work slowly, it is better to buy a ready-made mixture with plasticizers and additives that slow down the hardening of the solution.

Brick bonding in the basement and waterproofing

Laying a brick plinth with your own hands

My friend laid a layer of concrete on top of the waterproofing layer and pressed the mesh into it. Now I was laying the base. I need a helper to prepare the solution. But Vadik wanted to try to do everything with his own hands. He asked me to choose a site that was simpler, along a straight line without corners. He carefully aligned the outer row along the stretched cord and then laid the rest of the brick tightly. After a couple of hours I got used to doing everything myself. I secured 2 boards at each corner close to the masonry. Now all that remained was to lay the brick, pressing it against them. Nails for the outer line cord were easily driven into the wood. This device comes in handy when you need to repair the corners and façade of a house.

Every 4 rows, now I, as a helper, laid the mesh for strength. While the concrete mixer was working, I marked openings for vents - holes for ventilation of the underground space of the house. I prepared the top layer of waterproofing, which was additionally laid under the wall masonry.

I advised Vadik to choose masonry with a bandage half the width of the brick. Our outer layer alternated with transverse and longitudinal rows. Now, when laying, the joints did not match. This made the base durable and eliminated any repairs in the near future.

Protective and decorative finishing of the outer side of the plinth and blind area

Brick plinth laying

Having finished laying the base, we dug a ditch around the perimeter and poured a cushion under the blind area. Its width was determined by the size of the roof overhang, plus a strip to ensure rainwater drained onto the concrete path. The slope from the building was 1.5 - 2 degrees. Otherwise, water will leak under the base, destroy the foundation, and you will have to make repairs by removing mold in the corner of the walls.

I made the final exterior decoration with decorative stone on the concrete mortar after the walls were built.

The plinth is the lower part of the outer wall of the building, which is erected on the base and plays the role of a barrier between the wall and the destructive effects of atmospheric phenomena. A building without a basement covering is at risk from mold and rot and retains heat less well inside during cold periods. The main condition for a brick plinth on a strip foundation is high strength. Its structure must support the entire mass of the walls of the building. High-quality materials with a high level of resistance to frost, moisture and pressure strength will help achieve the required indicator.

Today, there are three options for the base that are used in the construction of residential premises:

• Outgoing base. From the name you can understand that this coating extends beyond the outer walls of the house. This type of plinth will be used if they want to achieve additional heat resistance during frosts or if the style of the building itself requires this, because from an aesthetic point of view this option is more attractive. To prevent water from remaining on the surface of the base, it is usually equipped with grooves or a drainage system.
• The base butt with external walls has recently been used extremely rarely. This fact is due, first of all, to the absence of any useful properties in this type of base.
• Recessed plinths are used in the construction of residential buildings. Built 6 cm deeper than the plane of the external walls, this type of plinth can save money on organizing water drainage and will also ensure the safety of the waterproofing layer.

What should be the width of the plinth

The dimensions of the plinth directly depend on the material from which the walls of the building will be built. Such information is always contained in the general plan and on the project drawing. With walls made of foam block (which is sometimes also called gas silicate brick) with a long surface of 60 cm, a width of 30 cm and a height of 20 cm, the masonry must have a thickness of at least 30 cm.

If further construction involves installing an additional insulating layer on top of the walls, then the width of the plinth should ideally be 38 cm. However, in the case when the brick is used as a decorative element built on top of walls made of foam concrete blocks, the thickness of the plinth increases by another 22 cm, after which it will be at least 60 cm.

Deciding on the height

Until now, construction workers do not have a clear answer to the question of what the height of the basement covering should be. As the level at which the top point of the masonry should be located, it is best to take the height of precipitation that has fallen over the past few years. This masonry technology is the most reliable and guarantees a long service life for future buildings erected on a strip brick foundation.

But in practice, most often, basement masonry is found with a height equal to the floor of the first floor of the building. This technique also applies to buildings with a basement floor. Fashion and style trends in our time imply that the house has a high and massive base, which can highlight the living space, giving it elegance and elegance.

Insulated brick plinth on a strip foundation

We remind you that all work on organizing the plinth is carried out on an erected strip base.

Marking the corners

One of the most important rules in the construction of not only the base, but any building in general, can be considered the correct determination of the angles of the structure. Negligence in this matter will certainly lead to curvature of the surface of the walls, which will ultimately lead to their partial or even complete load-bearing capacity.

To correctly set angles, several technologies are used, but the following method is considered the simplest:

1. A row of bricks is laid at all corners of the base of the building without the use of cement mortar. In this case, the planned width of the future structure must be observed. The corners are inserted using a building level.
2. Next, measure the length and width on both sides, as well as the diagonals. All readings must match to the nearest centimeter. Measurements are taken using a tape measure or twine.
3. It wouldn’t hurt to check the future walls again for any irregularities. The same twine is used for this.

Waterproofing the base surface

In order to ensure reliable protection of the basement masonry from groundwater, care should be taken to organize the upper part of the foundation with an insulating layer, the functions of which can be performed by roofing material folded in half. It is glued to the surface of the base using bitumen mastic, a burner or heated bitumen. Also used as a waterproofing layer are glass insulation, euroroofing felt or an improved type of roofing felt, which is based on cardboard - rubemast.

Bricklaying

Having provided the surface of the foundation with a waterproofing layer, you can begin laying the brick plinth. To fasten the bars, a solution of cement, sand and water is used. When constructing the basement, only red brick without holes or cavities is used.

They begin laying out the base from the corners, placing the rows opposite each other, and covering the surface of the material with a solution 2-2.5 cm thick. After laying out several rads, the surface is checked with a level.

Having reached the minimum height of the plinth, which is 4 rows of standard bricks, you can begin to build walls. The surface of the base is decorated with decorative stone or siding. It is not uncommon to resort to decorating the base with finishing tiles. Using a base covering, the strip foundation is leveled with bricks.

If there is a basement in the room, holes should be provided in the basement for ventilation. They are placed at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil. The dimensions depend on the diameter of the vent pipe. From above, the base is covered with a waterproofing layer, the same as the surface of the foundation was previously covered.

Video about laying bricks on a strip base:

Basement is the lower part of the external wall of a house, built on a foundation and designed to protect the walls from the destructive effects of moisture. A house without a basement is at risk of mold infestation and rot, may lose its ability to resist cold weather and increase heat transfer between indoor and outdoor areas.

One of the indisputable conditions is the strength of the base, because it bears the entire weight of the walls of the house. That is why the materials used must be of high quality, characterized by frost resistance, low moisture resistance and pressure resistance.

There are three plinth options used in construction:

• Outgoing - goes beyond the wall. This option is justified in two cases - it is part of the building design (aesthetically it is more advantageous) or there is a need for enhanced insulation of the basement floor. It must be equipped with a slope or groove for water drainage.

  Outgoing cap sample

• Standing end-to-end with a wall is an unpopular option today due to the lack of useful qualities.
• Recessed 6 cm into the wall of the house is the most optimal when building a house. It has a number of advantages: savings during construction, protection of the junction of the plinth and the wall, which ensures the safety of the waterproofing layer, and the absence of an indispensable condition for ensuring the discharge of water.

  Recessed plinth example

Base width

To select the overall width of the plinth, you should refer to the building design drawing to determine the material that will be used to construct the walls. For example, for gas silicate bricks (commonly known as foam concrete) with a side size of 600 X 300 X 200, the thickness of the masonry should be 30 cm, and if additional wall insulation is planned in the future, then a width of 38 cm is what is needed. But when using brick as a decorative element on top of foam concrete blocks, the thickness increases to 60 cm.

Base height

The question of where the base ends remains controversial to this day. The most reliable option is to determine the height based on the maximum amount of snowfall over several decades. The base, calculated using this simple technique, will protect the walls from the effects of capillary moisture, thereby increasing the reliability and durability of the built house.

But basically the height corresponds to the level at which the floor of the first floor of the building is located. This rule also applies to houses with a basement.

Designers usually prefer tall, as it gives the home lightness and grace.

Construction of a recessed brick plinth on a reinforced concrete strip foundation.

(The following instructions are intended for construction on a ready-made foundation.)

• Setting up corners when building a plinth.

One of the most important rules for laying a plinth is the correct alignment of the corners, because incorrectly aligned corners will lead to further curvature of the walls and, accordingly, defects in the construction of the building.

The simplest way is this:

Place a row of dry bricks in all corners, determining the width of the planned base. Angles are set according to level.

Using a tape measure or twine, measure the lengths of all sides and both diagonals - the dimensions must coincide down to centimeters and be correspondingly equal.

It is also worth checking future walls for possible curvature, using the same twine along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

The process of constructing a plinth

Waterproofing the upper surface of the foundation.

Insulation is necessary to further protect the base from groundwater.

Two layers of roofing felt are laid on the foundation in the following ways:

1. on bitumen mastic or heated bitumen;
2. connection with a burner, treating the surfaces of roofing material.

You can use rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroroofing material.

Basement waterproofing

Brick plinth laying

After setting the corners, it’s time to start laying the base. To create it, bricks are usually used, bonded with cement-sand mortar. Only solid red brick is used for construction.

It is advisable to start the laying from the corners, then lay the rows opposite each other on one side with a thickness of the applied mortar of about 20-25mm.

A plumb line checks the accuracy of laying the vertical surface after 3-4 rows of bricks.

After the final check of the corners, the wall laying begins. To make the row even, a thick fishing line is stretched between two corners.

Brick plinth laying

The minimum height is at least 4 laid rows, finishing in the form of natural stone, finishing tiles or siding is allowed.

If the house has basements, holes for ventilation are left in each side of the base at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil, measuring from 7 x 25 to 15 x 25 cm. If the length of the building exceeds 3 meters, the vents are in increments of 2.5 meters and covered with nets or small gratings.

Brick finishing of the base

Basement waterproofing

To protect against moisture penetration, you need to lay waterproofing materials, making a distinction between the plinth and the brick wall; for cheap construction, you can use, for example, roofing felt, folded in half. Of course, you don’t have to make do with only them; the choice of materials for insulation is now quite extensive. Double waterproofing is necessary in order to protect the house not only from the external influence of the elements, but also from the influence of groundwater on the foundation.

Basement waterproofing scheme

Video - how to make a brick plinth

The basement is the outer part of buildings, located on the foundation and representing the transition from the base to the walls. In addition to its load-bearing capacity, the base must withstand various external influences. Therefore, it is necessary to select all materials with special care and responsibility!

Features of a brick base

Before starting masonry work, you need to familiarize yourself with important details:
If the building material is brick, then you need to decide on the thickness of the frame.

Tip: Based on the size of the building and what material the walls will be made of, the thickness of the foundation directly depends. For example, the thickness for a brick structure should be from 500 mm (2 bricks), for a wooden one - at least 250 mm (1–1.5 bricks).

Before laying bricks, it is necessary to apply a layer of waterproofing to the strip foundation, which will protect against moisture.

Good roofing material is used as waterproofing, but in some cases bitumen-based coating compounds are used, which must be applied in a layer of 1.5–2 mm. Rolled material will still be not only more reliable, but also simpler.

The bricks are laid flat so that the top layer of masonry overlaps the seams of the bottom row. Before starting laying, it is necessary to stretch the cord along the foundation. Each row must be checked for evenness using a building level.

It is worth remembering that the thickness of the brick plinth will be different for each material from which the walls of the building are erected.

Preparatory work

This includes the purchase, preparation and subsequent installation of the selected mortar (cement or cement-sand). It is best to purchase solutions marked M75 for such work.

The prepared mixture is gradually laid out on the foundation in a layer of 2 cm and slightly leveled. It is necessary to lay a mesh of reinforcement in the middle of the layer; for its manufacture, VR-1 wire with a diameter of 4 mm is required.

Preparatory work consists of 2 stages:

1. Checking the diagonal and horizontality of the foundation, which is carried out using a hydraulic level, which first of all needs to check the corners and only then the entire area.
2. Leveling the surface. Attention! If you want to make a foundation at 0, then you need to think about this while pouring it. And if it is already completely ready, but there are deformations, then they need to be corrected.

What will you need?

To complete the masonry, you will need the following material, which must be reliable and of high quality:

• brick;
• Cement mortar;
• Net.

To work you will need:

1. Master OK;
2. pick;
3. shovel;
4. order;
5. cord;
6. jointing;
7. levels for construction work and water;
8. metal rod;
9. trough;
10. plumb line

To build a foundation, in addition to bricks, you need to buy the optimal amount of sand and cement.

Laying work

The most important stage at the beginning of the construction of the basement is the construction of the corners. The first row must be laid strictly across the entire width of the building. The solution of cement, water and sand should have the following proportions 1:3:3.

ADVICE: Sometimes a soap solution is used as a plasticizer. During the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to take care of high-quality ventilation. You can start working only when the angles are equal to 90 degrees, and the dimensions of width, length and diagonal are the same.

ATTENTION! If the plinth is laid only from brick, then its width should be at least 50 cm; it can be less only if the insulation is made of foam plastic. If the building has a basement, then the height of the basement is 70–100 cm, but if it does not, then 40 cm.

The brick basement is insulated from the inside as desired, but the outside requires mastic, which is applied with a brush, roller or specialized apparatus. Laying is carried out with constant monitoring of the level and cord.

ATTENTION! It is impossible to correct inaccuracies using the thickness of the mortar between the rows of bricks - the wall may collapse and then you will have to dismantle the entire structure!

Setting the corners

Setting the corners when laying the plinth is one of the main tasks; incorrectly placed corners will lead to curvature of the walls!

To do this, place a dry row of bricks in the corners and determine the desired width of the plinth. All corners must be level.

Using twine or a tape measure, you need to measure the length of all sides and 2 diagonals - if the angles are set correctly, then the dimensions should be identical.

ADVICE: in order to check future walls for curvature, measure along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

Laying a brick plinth on top of the foundation

You can begin installation only after all measurements have been made. To secure the bricks, a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3 is required, diluted with water to the required thickness of the mortar.

The main condition for this work is to carefully fill the vertical or horizontal joints with the prepared mortar to ensure the strength of the foundation.

Base insulation

To insulate the foundation, waterproof materials such as polystyrene foam are required, which must be used to treat the entire outer surface, secured with a special glue - which does not contain acetone and solvents - which harm it.

Basement waterproofing

Before you start building the structure, you need to make sure that all waterproofing materials are in stock - plaster, stone, ceramic tiles.

Waterproofing methods:

• Waterproofing is carried out at 2 levels - at the very bottom, before the first brick laying, and on top of the bricks. The easiest way is to lay roofing felt in two layers. The first layer ensures the wall is protected from moisture, and the second layer provides protection.
• Extruded polystyrene foam, which is fixed to the outer surface of the base. Due to the fact that this material has zero water absorption, it has high protective properties. It also has thermal insulation, and therefore will give the building additional protection.
• Bitumen lubricant is applied to the entire surface of the bricks in a thick layer in several approaches. Various plaster mixtures.

ATTENTION! If you combine all the options, you will end up with high waterproofing!

Ventilation

The foundation masonry must have holes that are located at a height of 15 cm from the ground, which will ensure good ventilation. You need to cover the holes with a metal mesh or flaps.

Brick base protection

Protection is required if construction work must be stopped. To do this, a film is laid on the structure being built, which protects the frame from various unfavorable environmental conditions.

Despite the fact that this article describes detailed instructions on how to lay a brick plinth, they will not help if you do not have even a little experience working with these materials.

To increase the stability of the building being constructed, a plinth is laid on the surface of the strip base. The base is the part of the foundation located above the ground. The walls of the structure are erected directly on this part. To lay out the plinth, you can use concrete or prefabricated reinforced concrete structures. However, for wooden or frame buildings, a brick plinth laid on a strip foundation would be an excellent option.

Types of brick plinth and their features

Setting up a reliable base is quite a difficult job. It is this part of the structure that is exposed to mechanical and atmospheric influences more than other structural elements. If the material is chosen incorrectly or the masonry technology is not followed, deformation of the base can occur and, as a consequence, destruction of the entire structure. Therefore, it is necessary to know and take into account many nuances in order to avoid unpleasant consequences during the further operation of the building.

Types of brick plinth

The brick base has several varieties:

• A sinking base is laid out when it is planned to build walls from gas silicate blocks. This design allows rainwater to drain quickly, as the wall protrudes above the base. The installation of a sinking structure does not require the installation of an additional drain.
• A protruding plinth is ideal for buildings with a basement or underground floor. This type will serve as reliable protection from the cold. However, when choosing a protruding type of base, you should install a drain around the entire perimeter to protect the waterproofing layer.
• The plinth, built in the same plane as the wall, is used very rarely. Firstly, the waterproofing in this case remains unprotected. Secondly, the design is not very attractive. This option requires additional waterproofing of the base and its cladding.

Choosing a material for constructing a brick plinth

To get a reliable base that does not require repairs, you need to choose the right material. It should be remembered that only high-quality bricks are used to lay out this part of the building. When choosing, it is best to focus on three parameters:

Types of bricks for the plinth

• The material must be highly durable. The brick for constructing the plinth should not change shape under the influence of load or weather conditions.
• The service life of the brick should be maximum.
• The decorative properties of the material must also be at a high level. It is necessary to use brick that matches the overall style of the building.

When choosing a brick for laying a plinth, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the basic physical properties of some types of this material.

Sand-lime brick

This material does not tolerate high humidity. With prolonged exposure, the brick loses strength and begins to collapse. A base made of sand-lime brick can be erected in regions with a predominant dry climate and with high-quality waterproofing.

Red clay brick

The manufacturing technology of such material allows it to be used for the construction of both the foundation and the plinth. Red brick can withstand more than 50 freezing cycles without changing its strength characteristics. Therefore, it can be used in the construction of structures in places with a humid climate and heavy precipitation.

Ceramic brick

Ceramic brick is a material that has a very long service life. It is an ideal option for arranging a basement on a strip foundation. This brick is not afraid of moisture and has good frost resistance.

Calculation of material for the base

Before you start laying the plinth, you need to calculate the required amount of brick. Firstly, this will allow you to purchase material from one batch. Secondly, you can save money on this without buying too many products.

Only an experienced specialist can calculate the exact amount of brick taking into account the thickness of the mortar and the percentage of defective material. However, there are several ways that allow you to carry out the calculation yourself.

To do this, you need to know the volume of one brick, the dimensions of the building and the height of the base.

• First we calculate the volume of the brick. The standard product has the following dimensions: 25*12*6.5 cm. Therefore, its volume will be 0.25*0.12*0.065=0.00195 m3.
• Now we determine the volume of the base. For example, a building has a size of 9*10 m, the optimal height of the plinth is 1 m, its minimum thickness should not be less than half the length of the brick. This means that the volume of the base will be equal to (9+10)*2*1*0.12=4.56 m3.
• Next, divide the volume of the base by the volume of one brick: 4.56/0.00195=2338.46. That is, to build a basement for a 9*10 m house, 2339 bricks will be required.

In this case, the length of the brick, the length and height of the base are taken into account.

• We calculate the number of bricks required for one row of masonry. To do this, divide the length of the building by the length of the brick: (9+10)*2*0.25=152.
• To determine the number of rows, you need to divide the height of the base by the height of one brick: 1/0.065=15.38.
• Next, the number of bricks in one row for the resulting number of rows of masonry: 152 * 15.38 = 2338.

Comparing the results, we get approximately the same number in both cases.

Building a brick plinth with your own hands

The plinth serves as a support for the load-bearing elements of the building, so the work must be done with maximum quality. To build a strong and reliable base, it is necessary to accurately perform each step.

Setting the corners

This stage is considered the most important. Careless performance of the work will lead to the fact that defects may appear during the overall masonry process. To set the corners, you need to lay out the bricks without mortar and check the correct placement. To do this, measure opposite sides and diagonals with a tape measure. Both parameters must be equal to each other. The angles with proper laying have a value equal to 90 0. The correct horizontal and vertical position of the masonry is controlled by the building level and plumb line. If all parameters match, the bricks are fixed with sand-cement mortar.

Laying bricks

Bricks must be laid on a sand-cement mortar. To prepare it, take sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1, mix and dilute with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. The masonry is carried out in horizontal rows, laying one and a half or two bricks. The next row is performed with the bricks rotated by 90 0, that is, with dressing. In this case, it is recommended to shift the longitudinal seams in adjacent rows by half a brick, and the transverse ones by a quarter.

The thickness of the seam between the bricks should not be more than 1.5 cm. Reinforcement of the masonry must be done every four rows. For this purpose, a metal mesh is used.

The height of the base depends on the design features of the building. If there is a basement floor, masonry can be done to a height of 0.8-1 meter. For an ordinary house, a height of 0.5 meters is sufficient.

Basement waterproofing

The base of the house requires mandatory waterproofing, which serves as protection against moisture from the soil and precipitation. The following materials can be used to waterproof the structure:

Waterproofing a brick plinth

• Coating waterproofing, which includes polymer or bitumen mastic, cement-based mixtures. It is applied to the surface using a brush with even distribution.
• Roll waterproofing is represented by roofing felt, hydroglass insulation, and euroroofing felt. The material is fastened by gluing preheated rolls or by fusing. You can glue roofing felt onto bitumen mastic. This will make the waterproofing more effective. In all cases, it is necessary to ensure that the sheets of waterproofing material overlap each other up to 15 cm.
• Penetrating waterproofing, when applied, penetrates into the smallest pores of the material and clogs them. The material is applied only to a damp surface, and upon completion of work it is necessary to moisten the insulation for 10-14 days.

Base insulation

To maintain heat in the house, it is necessary to insulate the basement. These works can be carried out either immediately after the construction of the base or after the completion of general construction work. Foam plastic and expanded polystyrene are most often used for thermal insulation. The insulation is attached using a special glue that does not contain acetone or other solvents. The outer surface of the base is treated with an adhesive solution. Sheets of insulating material are applied to the surface and pressed tightly.

To save money, you can simply plaster the surface of the base. Ordinary plaster plays the role of a good insulation.

Laying a brick plinth on a strip foundation is a complex but accessible process. It is necessary to make the correct calculations and follow the sequence of work. And an insulated base, protected from the negative influence of natural phenomena, will make the structure more attractive and improve its technological characteristics.

How to lay a brick plinth on a strip foundation

Types of bricks for the basement. Calculation of the amount of material. Step-by-step technology for laying a brick plinth. Tips and tricks.