Foot for making buttonholes. Making a buttonhole on a sewing machine. Features of using different methods of sewing buttonholes

To sew buttonholes with a continuous stitch, special feet are used. The width and length of the loop are usually set before stitching, but in principle they can be changed during processing. Buttonhole stitching can be done either semi-automatically or automatically, it all depends on the type of presser foot installed.

On the automatic foot, adjust the length of the buttonhole by inserting the button into the holder. When processing a buttonhole with this foot, it will completely match the size of the button, which is very convenient. When using thick buttons, you need to manually increase the length of the loop slightly on the machine. Each machine has different adjustments; to do this, read the user manual that comes with the machine.

The semi-automatic presser foot has markings on the left side for adjusting the length of the buttonhole. Before you start stitching a buttonhole, mark its length on the product and move the sliding gate, matching the bottom marking on it with the beginning of the buttonhole on the product. When sewing, keep the ends of the threads on the left side of the foot.

These loops are worked with a zigzag and secured in the corners with long stitches. You can process “built-in” loops in 4 or 2 stages, it all depends on the functions of the sewing machine. In the second case, a machine pass is made in one direction, then securing stitches are made, then a pass is made in the opposite direction and transverse securing stitches are made again. Overcasting in 4 stages is more versatile, since during the processing of the loop it is possible to adjust the frequency of stitches.

Place the stitch line in the center of the foot, and its beginning directly under the needle. Lower your foot and start stitching.
Do the stitching slowly. Place the loop marking slightly to the left of the center line. When finished, raise the needle, move the fabric slightly to the left, lower the needle and raise the presser foot.
Rotate the fabric 180°. Move the needle to the right, make a stitch and raise the needle. Make 6 wide securing stitches. Finish the stitching with the needle position on the left.

Sewing the simplest products on a sewing machine does not require special knowledge and skills: if you want to sew knitted pants, you will only need to select the right materials and ensure the evenness of the stitching. But before sewing more complex things - classic trousers or, for example, a regular shirt - you will need to get the hang of making neat buttonholes. We will tell you how to make a buttonhole on a button in this master class!

Materials and tools:

A finished part in which you need to make a loop (the waistband of pants or the placket of a shirt)
The right size button
Thread ripper
Tailor's pin
Automatic buttonhole foot from a Janome machine (included in the standard set of “spare parts” for modern machines)

It is also better to stock up on a test piece of fabric on which you can practice. This fabric should be the same density as that used for sewing the entire product. In addition, the fabric will need to be folded as many times as there are layers in the prepared part (in the placket of a shirt or the waistband of pants).

How to make a buttonhole on a Janome sewing machine?

1. The special foot for automatic buttonholes has a buttonhole. Using the plastic lever sticking out on the left side, open the slot slightly and place a button in it. Use the same lever to secure the button so that the machine can correctly determine its diameter. You can put in the foot not necessarily the button that you will sew (and buttons in the form of a “mushroom” will not be attached there), but it must be a button of the same diameter as the one that you will sew to the product.

2. Install the automatic buttonhole foot on your sewing machine. The button should remain in it until the end of the work. Bring both working threads (top and bottom) under the foot and point to the left.

3. Set the machine to the values shown in the photo. In the line with different seams, select the very first value, under which it says “VN”.

4. Set the stitch size to level 5 (according to the rules, this value can range from 4 to 6), and the stitch length to between 0 and 1.

5. From the upper left part of the machine, lower the stopper - a metal stick with a plastic tip - down to the foot. Having lowered it all the way down, move it towards you - then the stopper will rest against the plastic foot stop. This stopper will stop sewing the buttonhole when the machine has sewn the entire buttonhole in a circle.

6. Important: before making the first loop (and also between loops, if you need more than one), turn the machine’s handwheel located on the right side of the body, one click forward (away from you), and then one click back (toward you). This will set the machine to start making a new buttonhole. Next, place a test piece of fabric under the foot and simply press the machine pedal. She will sew the outline of the buttonhole herself, based on the size of the button.

7. Try sewing loops on the “draft” using different stitch widths (from 4 to 6). Having chosen the most suitable option, proceed to making a loop on the prepared part of the product.

8. Place the trouser waistband under the presser foot and stitch the outline of the buttonhole in the desired location. The machine sews a loop in a circle: first the front narrow crossbar, then the left side, the far crossbar and the right side.

9. Bring the ends of the threads to the wrong side of the product and tie them to secure them firmly.

10. All that remains is to cut the loop outlined by the machine! This is very easy to do using a steamer. But the problem is that this tool is very sharp, which means it can tear apart the excess. To prevent the ripper from cutting the stitching of the loop edge, limit the loop with a tailor's pin, inserting it as shown in the photo.

11. Cut the loop with a ripper towards the pin stopper.

12. Check if your button fits into the loop you made. If the hole is still small, cut it a little further with a ripper.

Even a novice seamstress can make a buttonhole on a Janome machine, because the process of edging a buttonhole of the required size occurs automatically! The main thing is that before this operation, do not forget to lower and press the stopper against your foot: without this, the machine will make a basic buttonhole of the minimum size, into which your button is unlikely to fit.

You can also sew buttons on the Tula and Veritas machines. To perform this operation, you first need to prepare the machine. In the Tula (see Fig. 70, a) and Veritas (Fig. 70, b) machines, lever 4 lowers the teeth of the fabric motor, and lever 1 is set to 0. Then put the corresponding foot on the machine.

The foot for sewing buttons has two short horns 5 and 6 (Fig. 71, a).

On the sole of the foot from one horn to the other, behind the groove, there is a small thickening 7 (Fig. 71, b), extending beyond the horns. It is designed to rest against the button bezel so that the button does not move during sewing.

Rice. 70. Installation of lever 1 and 4 when sewing buttons: a - on the Tula machine; b - by car "Veritas"

On sewing machines, you can only sew buttons that have two or four through holes with a distance between them of no more than 4 mm (Fig. 71, c), for example, linen buttons to pillowcases, baby bras, etc.

It is also necessary to prepare the fabric, marking on it where the buttons will be sewn. The product and a button are placed under the foot, and the two holes of the button should be located between the horns of the foot, as shown in Fig. 71, d. Without yet lowering the foot onto the button, slowly rotating the flywheel with your right hand, lower the needle a little, and with your left hand adjust the button so that, without reaching it, the needle point stops between the holes of the button (Fig. 71, d ) -then just lower the foot onto the button.

Then slowly turn lever 2 with the right hand from 0 towards the number 4 until the needle stands opposite the center of one of the holes - right or left (Fig. 71, e).

After this, again rotating the flywheel by hand, check whether the needle falls into one or the other hole without touching their walls. If the needle, passing through the hole of the button, touches its walls, you need to check whether the needle is thick, whether the holes in the button are located correctly, whether the button is placed correctly.

Rice. 71. Foot for sewing buttons and working with it: a - foot (top view); b - the same (view from the sole); c - samples of buttons suitable for sewing on by machine; g - lining various. buttons under the foot; e, f - sequence of installation of a needle for sewing buttons; h - type of sewn button

If the needle passes exactly through the centers of the holes, you can sew on the button. The number of stitches depends on the thickness of the thread, since the needle must pass freely through the eye of the button (approximately 4-6 stitches are required). To ensure that the button is sewn firmly and the thread does not unravel, you need to secure its end. To do this, the needle must pass through the same hole of the button two or three times. For this purpose, set lever 2 to 0, and move lever 3 to the left, after which again check that the needle point hits the center of the button eye.

Having sewn one button, move the product and place another one, which is sewn on when installing the levers for the first button (if the buttons are the same).

If there are four holes in the button (Fig. 71, g), then you must first sew the button through two holes 8 (Fig. 71, h), and then through the second two, and fasten the thread.

After fastening, the ends of the threads should not be tied with knots, but cut off, but thread 9, which lies diagonally between the stitched first two and second holes, should not be cut off.

BUTTONHOLE FOOT

The foot for sewing buttonholes (Fig. 72, a, b) for the Tula machine has a groove 5 on the sole through which the sewn sides of the loop pass, a through round hole 6 for additional thread (cord) and a groove 7 for the passage of the needle.

The buttonhole foot (Fig. 72, c, d) for the Veritas machine is more open, hole 8 for additional thread is located in boss 9 of the left horn.

The loops are sewn with a zigzag stitch, the width of which should not exceed 2mm; The stitch length is taken to be minimal and equal to the thickness of the thread so that the threads lie close to one another.

Rice. 72. Foot for sewing buttonholes: a and b - for the Tula machine; c and d - for the Veritas machine

By placing a piece of fabric under the foot and lowering the foot, make sure that the needle touches the beginning of the line marked for the buttonhole, then lower the foot and make a few test stitches. If there are gaps between the threads, then lever 1 should be moved towards 0; if one thread lies on the other, lever 1 is moved away from 0 a little closer to the first division.

Having adjusted the density of the buttonhole seam, remove the flap from under the foot and place the fabric or product on which the loops need to be made under the foot.

The loops are processed in the following sequence: having swept one side of the loop, raise the foot, turn the fabric or product 180°, lower the foot onto the fabric, make a tack, sweep out the other side of the loop, make a second tack, raise the foot, remove the product and cut the loop. When working on the Tula machine, the right side of the loop is first sewn, and on the Veritas machine, the left side is first, the remaining operations are performed in the same order.

Rice. 73. Initial installation of levers for sewing buttonholes: a - in the Tula machine, b - in the Veritas machine

In order to sweep a buttonhole on medium fabrics (linen, satin) on the Tula machine, you need to set lever 2 to the number 2, lever 1 - close to 0. How far to the left of 0 you need to put lever 1 can be determined by the thickness of the thread by making sample on a piece of paper.

Lever 3 must be turned to the right. In Fig. 73, and shows the installation of control levers on the Tula machine before sewing the first side of the loop.

Having sewn the first side of the loop of the required length, stop the machine, lower the needle (by manually rotating the handwheel) into the fabric, raise the presser foot and carefully, so as not to bend the needle, turn the fabric or product on which the loop is being sewn 180°, i.e. so that the basted side is in front of the foot. After this, lower the foot. The needle must be placed in the upper position, since levers 2 and 3 can only be moved if the machine is not working with the needle raised.

Lever 2 is set to number 4 (Fig. 74, a), and lever 3 is moved to the zero position. A few stitches are used to secure it.

Raising the needle and placing levers 2 and 3 in their previous position (lever 2 on number 2, as shown in Fig. 73, a, and lever 3 to the right), sweep out the second side of the loop. Having finished it, they make a second fastening (the installation of the levers is the same as for the first fastening, see Fig. 74, a).

Having finished the loop, secure the thread so that the stitching does not unravel. To do this, you need to set lever 2 to 0 and make a few stitches.

All other loops are sewn in the same way.

When the work is finished and the fabric or product is released from under the presser foot, you need to cut the loops along their middle from one bartack to the other, being careful not to cut the bartack.

You can use a special knife - a loop cutter (Fig. 75, a, b). They can pierce the fabric and make a slot between the sides of the loop without cutting through the bartack, because the bartack hits the blunt stop 5 (Fig. 75, b) of the knife. This knife is included with the Tula machine, but it can also be purchased separately in stores that sell sewing machines and spare parts for them. The knife consists of a metal part 6, which has a blade 7, with a hook 10 and a wooden stick 8. It is stored in a wooden case 9, which serves as a handle when working with the knife.

Rice. 74. Final installation of levers for marking buttonholes: a - in the Tula machine; b - in the Veritas car

On machines “Veritas” 8014/2 and “Veritas” 8014/3, for sewing buttonholes, the control levers must be installed accordingly. So, to sew the first side of the loop, lever 1 (see Fig. 73, b) must be between 0 and 1, lever 2 - at number 2, lever 3 - with the L/1 sign up.

Having placed the buttonhole foot on the machine (see Fig. 72, c) and placed the fabric under it, make several test stitches. In this case, you need to look at the resulting treatment and, if necessary, adjust the thickness of the covering and remove the fabric.

The product is placed under the foot so that the beginning of the intended line for the loop falls under the needle, then the foot is lowered and one side of the loop is stitched to the end. Leaving the needle lowered at the end of the line marked for the loop, raise the foot and turn the product 180°, then lower the foot and put the needle in the upper position.

Having set the levers for making the bartack (lever 2, as shown in Fig. 74, b, to the number 4, and lever 3 to the M/2 sign up), again make several stitches (about four to five).

Having raised the needle, move levers 2 and 3 to the position in which they were when sweeping the first side of the loop (see Fig. 73, b).

Having swept the second side of the loop, they make a fastening again, and then, so that the loop does not unravel, fasten the thread. To do this, place lever 2 at 0, lever 3 with the M/2 sign up and do

three or four stitches. After this, all that remains is to cut the loop between the basted sides from one bartack to the other.

Rice. 75. Knife for cutting loops: a - in a closed state; b - in working order

If you thread the appropriate thread into the hole in the foot for additional thread, the loops will be embossed. In this case, at the beginning of overcasting the first side of the loop and after turning the fabric (before overcasting the second side), you need to use the point of a hand needle to adjust additional thread under the needle so that the top thread attaches it. Loops can also be sewn with other settings of lever 2. On thin fabrics, you can make the sides of the loop not 2, but 1.5 mm wide, with a tack width of not 4, but 3 mm (the width of the tack should be twice the width of each side, since it must simultaneously fasten both sides of the loop).

Using the buttonhole foot (see Fig. 72, c) supplied with the Veritas machine, it is very good to perform cutwork embroidery with a large pattern. Stretch the fabric with the pattern printed on it onto the hoop (the teeth of the rack do not need to be lowered or covered with a plate). Lever 2 is set to 0, and lever 1 is set to the division corresponding to a stitch 1 mm long. First you should sew, as with a presser foot, the lines of the design with a stitching stitch. Then, setting lever 2 between numbers 1 and 2, overcast the stitch, and to cover it with a “roller” seam, move lever 2 closer to number 2, move 1 closer to O and, using lever 1 on a test piece of starched fabric, adjust the density of the seam and use the lever 2 its width, stitch according to the pattern. In this case, it is no longer necessary to adjust the width and density of the “roller” seam by moving the hoop; you should only slightly guide the hoop so that the line of the design always approaches the foot opposite the needle on the side of the worker.

If you starch the fabric a little, then on a very large design you can use a buttonhole foot to create a roller seam without a hoop. This seam can be made with an interfacing thread, inserting it into the hole in the foot for additional thread, but in this case, lever 3 must be positioned so that the needle is in the left position. All these operations can also be performed with a foot (see Fig. 69) for sewing on a cord, which has short horns and a hole for additional thread in the center between the horns. The needle does not require a left position. If the design is very large, then almost all of it can be done using the presser foot, which eliminates the need to shake the hoop and adjust the pace of its advance. You just need to direct the drawing line to the foot.

However, using the feet for sewing cord or sewing buttonholes, during which the fabric motor operates, you cannot adjust and overcast stitches, make spiders and mosaic mesh, because in this case the sole of the foot will be scratched and the teeth of the fabric motor will become dull.

And again we are in touch with you, dear sewing lovers, blog site. Hello!

The clasp is the most important element of any model. I personally treat the clasp with special trepidation. And when the time comes to make welt loops, I always tense up internally. Will it work this time? And, despite the fact that during my life I have made a countless number of such loops, and every time I still doubt whether they will turn out neat, whether they will not be crooked, as in that proverb “One eye on the Caucasus, and the other on Arzamas”...

Today's post will be about how to make a slotted buttonhole on a machine.

It’s good in sewing factories, I inserted it into the machine and “zhik zhik zhik – take away what’s ready”...

Manufacturers of modern sewing machines have made an amazing gift to sewing lovers by giving us the ability to make cut-out buttonholes on their sewing machines.

It is very good when your household work stitch has a function for making loops in automatic or semi-automatic mode. This will give your product a completely professional finish.

Types of slotted loops.

You can make different loops on different machines, from different manufacturers. For example, these are: 1) a loop made with a cross (a loop for beautiful elastic fabrics (decorative loop)); 2) a rounded loop with a longitudinal fastening (a loop for shirts, blouses and any other clothing; 3) an ornamental loop (a decorative loop for shirts, blouses and any other clothing).

The more types of buttonholes your sewing machine can make, the more creative options you have.

The most common ones performed by modern sewing machines are: 1) a linen buttonhole for blouses, shirts, bed linen, and 2) a buttonhole with an eye for jackets, outerwear or trousers.

There will be no problems with making these types of loops if you have instructions for the machine.

But even if your sewing machine is not replete with such functions, with just one at your disposal, you can also make a slotted buttonhole.

How to make buttonholes on a household machine manually?

To find a place where the slotted loop will “settle”, you need to follow a number of very simple rules.

On women's models, the loops should be on the right shelf ().
Vertical slotted loops are placed strictly along the grain thread. Horizontal along the weft thread (perpendicular to the line of the middle of the front). 1/3 of the loop length extends beyond the line of the middle front to the edge of the fastener, 2/3 beyond the line of the middle front to the side seam.
The first (top) loop is placed at a distance equal to the diameter of the button from the neck line.
You definitely need to calculate it so that there is a loop + button on the chest line.
The distance between the loops depends on the size and number of buttons (according to the model).
We decide what the loops will be:

Loop length.
Loop width.
Loop stitch density.

All these values depend on the size and shape of the buttons, as well as the texture of the fabric we are working with. The length, width of the loops and stitch density are determined experimentally.

Well, we’ve taken everything into account, marked it out, decided on the permanent residence of the loop, now we proceed directly to making a slotted loop for the button.

Along the line between the two marks (loop length), there will be a cut (entry for the button). Leaving a strip 1 - 1.5 mm wide along the cut line, we place the needle in the corner between the line of the middle of the loop (shelf) and the intended segment (on the right side).

We sew a line with a zigzag seam. We lay the line close to the next transverse mark and stop in the far right corner.

We increase the width of the zigzag stitch without changing the density of the stitches, and make the first loop tack. The width of the tack is equal to the width of the 2 sides of the loop + 1-1.5 mm allocated for the cut.

When finishing the fastening, leave the needle in the lower left corner (remember, we turned 180⁰). We stop and again change the width of the zigzag seam to the previous one, without changing its density. Sew the left side of the loop and leave the needle in the material at the far left point.

We turn 180 degrees.

Again we change the width of the zigzag seam, without changing its density, and make the loop tack similar to the previous one. We stop at the far bottom right corner.

You can fasten the loop stitches by bringing the ends of the stitch threads to the wrong side, and then knit them and cut off the excess, or by zeroing out all the dimensions, “dance” in place with a needle.

All that remains is to open the “door” for the button and cut the loop. Of course, if you have a special knife - a ripper for such cases, then there is nothing to talk about. And if not, then cut the loop with small sharp scissors, a blade, a scalpel (yes, you can use a scalpel for such a thing), placing something hard under the material - cardboard, a ruler, a board, etc., so as not to damage the table. And in order not to damage the loop fastenings, pins are stuck in front of them.

And in conclusion, a few words about which side is better or more correct to start making a loop from the right or left (for vertical loops).

It is better to start from top to bottom (along the part on which the fastener is made), no matter to the left or right of the future entrance (cut) to the loop. Because this way, you start going along the edge of the fastener down and the entire product, sleeves, back, left front, collar, etc. is located to the left of the machine, and you can control the situation. Nothing bothers you. The zigzag seam, that is, the side of the loop, should be smoother.

And having turned 180 degrees, you will already have a landmark, a path along which you should go back up. And the entire product, which is now located to the right of the machine, will no longer interfere with the stitching (making loops).

Sew along the line of the middle front, “with an eye” on the completed loops.

It would seem that there is nothing difficult about making a slotted loop. Moreover, an entire article is dedicated to its production. But depending on how we approach their implementation, slotted loops can either decorate the product or hopelessly disfigure it. I think such a publication will not be superfluous to replenish the knowledge base of sewing lovers.

All the best to everyone! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

Those who sew clothes with their own hands know that the overall appearance of the product largely depends on how the sewing buttonholes look. It is the stitching of the buttonhole that is considered the most important operation, which is most often impossible to redo “without traces”. Therefore, before making a buttonhole on a sewing machine, especially in the “automatic” mode, be sure to try making a test buttonhole on a piece of fabric that has the same number of fabric folds and adhesive materials.

In this article we will give you some useful tips on how to make buttonholes on a sewing machine in automatic mode with a special foot, and in semi-automatic mode with a regular zigzag foot.

Video on how to make buttonholes on a sewing machine in four steps.

It is easier to sew buttonholes on thick woolen fabrics, since the machine moves the fabric well in both directions, without any problems. But when the fabric is very thin and delicate, the small pitch of the zigzag stitch can “slip”, and an incorrectly adjusted rack (teeth) can pull the fabric under the foot. In both cases, the sewing loop will have to be redone, and most often with consequences in the form of punctures in the fabric, and sometimes tears.

Therefore, first set up the sewing machine. Adjust the tension of the upper and lower threads. Adjust the height of the rack (if there is such an adjustment). Check the pressure level of the fabric foot. In order for the fabric to move confidently under the foot, it must be pressed well against the teeth. For thin fabrics, the teeth cannot be raised high, otherwise the fabric will be chewed.

Don’t forget to attach a special lever to the presser foot that automatically switches the operating mode of the machine. Those sewing machines that come with a foot like the one in this photo must also have a lever for making automatic buttonholes.

Sewing a buttonhole in the "automatic" mode

For a foot that makes a buttonhole in automatic mode, there is no need to mark the buttonhole on the fabric. One vertical and one horizontal landmark is enough. The machine will automatically determine the size of the buttonhole based on the size of the button installed in a special mount on the foot. But this foot does not have such a device, however, the size of the loop can be set visually. However, read about this in detail in the instructions for your sewing machine. Our task is to protect you from common mistakes made when sewing buttonholes.

And one of them is that they often make mistakes with the size (loop length). Place a button in the foot and immediately punch through the loop. As a result, it turns out that its size does not correspond to the diameter of the button. First check what the loop will be like by making at least 5-7 prototypes.

In the automatic buttonhole mode, the operation cannot be stopped unless the power of the machine is turned off. But you can always manually operate the reverse lever. And in some cases, this opportunity can help you out, just practice.

In fact, this sewing machine is designed to sew automatic buttonholes, but we will show you how you can use it to sew buttonholes in a semi-automatic mode, with the ability to control the process of sewing loops.

To do this, you need to replace the special foot with a regular zigzag foot and be sure to pull the reverse lever down (all the way).

We begin to sew a loop. At the same time, you can clearly see each stitch of the loop and, most importantly, you can always stop the machine if necessary.

Once the stitches reach the desired border, you only need to switch the lever in the opposite direction. Moreover, the machine can be temporarily stopped.

You see how beautifully, and most importantly, while controlling the process, you can make a buttonhole using a regular zigzag foot. But the main thing this method allows you to do is to create a good gap between the stitches (slightly move one of the sides), which will allow you to carefully cut a hole for the button.

This is actually a fairly important part of making a buttonhole because it is very easy to damage the bartack threads and overcast stitches when cutting the buttonhole.
To make it easier to cut a buttonhole, learn to slightly move one side of the stitching while the machine is stopped.
And in order not to damage the securing stitches, it is enough to put two pins, as in this photo.

Now you can check how the button fits into the cut loop and then sew the button.
The button should fit tightly so as not to unfasten arbitrarily when worn. In addition, over time, the buttonhole will increase slightly, so a little force when inserting the button into the loop will not hurt.