How to fasten stairs. Fasteners for stairs - a wide selection and unlimited possibilities. How much does a staircase structure cost?

One of the activities of the LEVIS company is the production of custom stairs. Our projects add individuality to your homes, bring harmony and comfort to the interior.

Good selection of quality products

Fifteen years of experience in the market of Moscow and the region allows us to provide services for the manufacture and installation of wooden structures for country houses, cottages, and dachas.

The material we prefer to work with is natural wood of various species. Valued for its environmental friendliness, noble beauty, and ease of processing. You can buy a ready-made one or order a wooden staircase:

  • marching line, considered the most reliable;
  • rotating (left, right) by 90, 180 degrees, allowing you to save space;
  • screw - for small rooms;
  • on the bolts - stylish, airy, durable.

We will also custom-finish concrete and metal structures with wood, which will give it a cozy and attractive look.

Wide price range

Straight staircase Staircase with 90° turn Staircase with 180° rotation
Material

Pine from 75,600 rub. from 91,392 rub. from 102,584 rub.
Larch from 112,460 rub. from 130,280 rub. from 148,760 rub.
Beech from 141,360 rub. from 169,840 rub. from 195,640 rub.
Ash from 157,840 rub. from 185,480 rub. from RUB 216,956
Oak from 174,850 rub. from 206,200 rub. from 242,200 rub.
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We can make inexpensive custom stairs from pine in Moscow (from 75,000 rubles), from larch and beech - at an average price (from 112,500 rubles) or from solid ash and oak - expensive ones (from 158,000 rubles).

If you do not expect to spend a lot of money, we suggest purchasing standard projects. For those who are not short on funds, our designers will find a solution that will not just be a transition to the second floor of the house, but also a work of art. Such designs are made according to an individual project.

In any case, our stairs, inexpensive or exclusive, are the embodiment of engineering excellence and creative ideas.

A range of services worthy of professionals

The company provides a wide range of services for residents of Moscow and the region. From us you can order a wooden staircase, ready-made or have it designed and manufactured. We will carry out installation, cladding, finishing, painting. You will receive an absolutely reliable and beautiful structure.

You will say that many people do this. But we, like true professionals:

  • We have our own production, thanks to which we can inexpensively produce individual parts, as well as wooden interior elements (screens for radiators, carved arches);
  • we have mastered the production of doors and forged products, and we can produce custom-made wooden stairs with forging;
  • we produce furniture, gazebos and other items;
  • We do comprehensive wood finishing of the whole house or part of it.

At the same time, we guarantee optimal price-quality ratio. If you are ready to order, we will begin work at a time convenient for you.

Any staircase rests on a supporting beam, which can be made like a stringer or bowstring.

Bowstrings allow you to maximally adapt the staircase to the characteristics of a particular interior, thus making it elegant and modern.

When supported on strings, the steps are placed between adjacent boards, attached to them at their ends.

It turns out that if you attach the steps to the strings, then their ends, unlike installation on stringers, will be hidden, and the profile view of the stairs will be inclined and even. If you use only one string, then the second end of the step can be mounted into the wall. Stair steps can be with risers (closed) or without them (open), then either the horizontal part of the step or only the horizontal part is attached to the string.

The fencing of the staircase, which makes it reliable and convenient, is formed using balusters (vertical support posts), attached at the top to the railing, and at the bottom attached to the beam, with such frequency that the gap between adjacent posts does not exceed 15 cm. This ensures a safety margin. To protect it from cracking due to deformation under the influence of the environment, a wooden staircase should be made from the same types of wood with fencing and fastenings. Flights of stairs, landings, and railings are connected together by balusters, so they must be especially reliable.

For stairs supported by bowstrings, you can place balusters relative to the steps in any place, since they are mainly attached to the beams, and not to the steps. The easiest way is to attach the posts to the outside of the bowstring. Then it is enough to screw them on the side with screws, having previously drilled recesses for them, and covered them with wooden dowels on top for masking. You can put a beam on top of the edge using a baluster (a board slightly wider than the bowstring), which has a groove at the bottom the size of the width of the bowstring, onto which it fits on top. The racks are placed on the baluster from above, screwed from below with self-tapping screws. Then the structure is coated with wood glue and placed on the bowstring, fastened with clamps. Balusters can be mounted on a beam using dowels, round fastening tenons, drilling holes half their length in the posts and string so that there is no play. All dowels are tightly inserted into the holes of the posts, fixed with glue, then the railings are fastened to the bowstring with the lower halves of the dowels.

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We fix the racks

Attaching the stands to the bowstring is possible using pins. Take tools:

  • miter saw;
  • drill.

Materials:

  • bowstring;
  • railing posts;
  • standard galvanized studs (M6 thread);
  • PVA glue).

Perform in stages:

  1. Mark the places for installing railing posts.
  2. The racks from below are cut with a saw at an angle (the angle of inclination of the beam).
  3. From below, at the ends of the racks, holes are drilled (80 mm deep, drill with a diameter of 12 mm).
  4. The pins are placed on glue and inserted into the holes, leaving the ends about 7 cm.
  5. Holes are made in the bowstring with a drill with a diameter of 14 mm to a depth of 100 mm.
  6. Balusters are inserted with pins into these holes, securing first the outer posts, then the rest.

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How to install steps

The steps themselves are attached to the strings by cutting them into a beam or mounting them on supporting elements. These are corners or bars that are screwed to the beam with screws along the line of the tread, the horizontal parts of the steps. The treads are similarly attached to the supports with screws. You can make a staircase with steps cut into a string, in which grooves of the same (2 cm) depth are made with some indentation from the top edge, then treads with risers are inserted into them. Sometimes, using the simplest method, the steps are secured by screwing them into the end from the outside of the board.

A staircase will be reliable and stable if its strings are connected to the balusters. Then the beam consists of sections that are attached to the grooves of the balusters using protrusions. In this case, the loads from the upper parts of the strings are redistributed to the fencing posts, and when used, the entire staircase, including strings, steps and balusters, turns into a single, interconnected system.

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Mortise mount

To make a mortise mount to a bowstring, the following tools are used:

  • manual milling machine;
  • drill;
  • jigsaw;
  • bit;
  • screwdriver.

Materials:

  • screws;
  • wooden slats;
  • plywood sheet;
  • treads and risers;
  • bowstrings.

Perform actions:

  1. The string is marked using a plywood tread template (or a tread with a riser), cut taking into account calculations for a march with the required slope and number of steps.
  2. We draw a reference line on the bowstring, retreating 50 mm from its edge.
  3. We will nail guide rails to the template, which will “slide” along the top edge of the board. Moving the template, we mark the zigzag markings of the steps so that its vertices lie on the reference line. At the top, the marking line ends at the level of the second floor landing, and at the bottom, the end of the tread corresponds to the floor.
  4. Grooves are made in the bowstring (chosen at an angle to the grain line). In order to make the grooves efficiently, it is better to cut them using a stencil from plywood, making a hole in it using a drill and jigsaw, slightly larger than the width of the tread and riser and located at the same angle of inclination with the lines on the markings.
  5. We place the beam on the trestle, and place the stencil on it, aligning it with the image of the first tread, and nail it.
  6. Using a milling machine, moving clockwise, we select a groove to a depth of 20 mm, then working with a chisel in the corners.
  7. Having completed the required number of holes, we assemble the structure by coating the ends of the steps and grooves with glue.
  8. Treads with risers are fastened with screws; the steps can also be additionally attached with screws from the outside of the bowstring, deepening them and covering them with wooden plugs.

The grooves for the steps must be made with high precision so that the stairs do not wobble or creak. In the strings of stairs with embedded steps, under them, for strength, place (every 4-5 steps) tightening metal rods or bolts at the ends of the treads, if there are no risers, i.e. viewable stairs.

The fastening of stair steps depends on the design of the staircase and the materials used, the covering of the steps and load-bearing elements, and the planned external finishing. Let's consider possible options for attaching wooden steps in wooden stairs.

There are two main designs of wooden stairs: on stringers and with bowstrings. For quick understanding: stringers- these are the load-bearing elements on which steps are attached on top, A bowstrings mounted on the sides of the stairs and steps are attached between them or between the bowstring and the wall.

Attaching the steps of a wooden staircase to a stringer

In stringer stairs, the stringer absorbs the entire load-bearing load, so fastening the feet solves two problems - fixing the steps from displacement and vibration, as well as hiding the fact of fastening in open, visible structures.

The simplest installation option is to drill out the steps and fasten them through with powerful self-tapping screws to the stringer. Self-tapping screws are used with decorative heads, screwed in, or the surface of the step is drilled to a shallow depth with a large drill and a decorative polymer plug is installed. This type of fastening is often used in DIY stairs. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the steps should be drilled only with feather drills at high drill speeds, which will prevent chips at the mouth of the hole.

In open staircases without casing, the steps can be installed in a hidden way using cotter pins. In this case, the tread and stringer are drilled exactly to fit the diameter of the cotter pins and installed with glue. This option is not suitable for dynamically moving stairs with a stringer of small cross-section or steps that are too wide, which will sag under load and destroy the adhesive joint.

In staircases under the cladding, the step can be secured through a block or corner made of metal, fixed in the right places on the inside of the stringer. The photo shows a fastening option using a tie rod with a threaded tread and a sheet (for example, plywood) hemmed underneath.

Attaching the steps of a wooden staircase to a bowstring

The main methods of attaching steps to strings:

  1. a support block for the step, secured to a string;
  2. a metal bracket for the step, screwed through with self-tapping screws or bolts to the string;
  3. an overlay or bump on the inside of the bowstring, according to the principle of a zigzag stringer;
  4. selection of grooves for steps in the string (exactly in size or for the option of wedging the tread and riser during assembly).

The first two options for attaching steps to a ladder on bowstrings can be considered the most inexpensive and often used when making stairs yourself. However, for greater security, the third and fourth options are preferable.

Bars, brackets or overlays can only be used in the construction of staircases for sheathing. In transparent, unlined stairs, you need to hide the fact of the fasteners and the grooves do an excellent job of this task, in addition, transferring the entire load from the steps directly to the string.

Attaching the steps of a wooden staircase to the wall

In some cases, it may be more practical to secure one side of the tread to a stringer or bowstring, and fasten the other side directly to the wall. This is the most popular fastening method for staircases on rails, which have become fashionable today, when the steps on one side are pulled together with metal pins, bushings (bolts) and a handrail with posts into a single whole, and the other side is mounted on the wall.

Attaching wooden steps to the wall can be done by embedding them into the wall (this is labor-intensive and depends on the thickness of the supporting wall + if the depth of embedding is shallow, the niche will gradually break when walking up the stairs) or by laying it on a supporting element (block, corner, decorative turned element) , directly fixed to the wall. Typically, anchors, embedded studs or powerful self-tapping screws are used for fastening if the wall is wooden.

In bolted staircases, an option is used when a corner of the shelf at the bottom with the dimensions of the end of the step is attached to the wall with anchors. In the steps, the bottom plane is milled to the depth and width of the corner flange + holes are drilled from the end using a feather drill to hide the anchor nuts.

Still, the most beautiful staircases are obtained by specialists in their field who have gained experience on real objects and who understand how many little things arise during their installation and operation during life. Excellent examples of wooden staircases can be viewed on the website http://lestnichnik.com.ua/, and if someone wishes, they can order such a staircase for their home. These are high-quality works of art, combining graceful chiseling of balusters, carved decorative decorations of support pillars and handrail finishing, high-quality monolithic tinting with a soft coating of varnish, conveying all the delights of the natural structure of wood.



Installation of wooden stairs is carried out according to a previously prepared project, taking into account the parameters of the allotted area. For preliminary preparation of elements, you can purchase ready-made elements for modular installation in the store or prepare the products yourself. In this case, it is important to take into account the features of screw or main products.

Creating a Project

Installation of a staircase in a wooden house is carried out taking into account the basic standards and requirements that ensure the safety and convenience of the structure:

  • The angle of inclination varies between 24-30 degrees.
  • The height of the risers is 17 cm.
  • Tread width 30 cm.
  • The number of steps is odd.
  • The fences are 90 cm high.
  • If it is necessary to create additional handrails for children, it is important to maintain a height of 60 cm.

The production and installation of wooden stairs with a width of more than 110 cm is created taking into account the installation of fences on both sides. Typically, fences are created on the basis of supports connecting the steps or string to the railing.

Placing a simple ladder on strings

  • To fix the bowstring, a line is created along the wall surface in height and placement. On the string there are marked areas for supports that provide fixation of the railings and arrangement of steps.
  • Installing steps on a wooden staircase requires first determining their number. To do this, a calculation is made:
  • if the height of the staircase is 1.6 m, you need to divide it by 17. The result is the number 9, equal to the number of steps. To determine the optimal height of steps, 160 is divided by 9.
  • The results obtained allow you to make marks with a pencil for dowels. They are designed to accommodate steps.
  • The wall string is attached to the wall using plugs. On the second string, the steps are assembled and connected to the wall string. The steps are attached to the string using cut grooves.
  • Installation of railings on a wooden staircase is carried out taking into account a free gap of 7 cm from the wall.

Development of the bowstring

The grooves are located along the inner edges of the supporting beam. Since the treads are not located on the beam, as is the case with stringers, they cannot form creaking deflections over time. The bowstring is made from boards. To do this, grooves are cut with a recess parameter of up to 20 mm. The planes of the grooves have an even position and the same depth. Otherwise, the step will “play”. To evenly mark the space between the grooves, a template made from plywood is used.

For clarity, the installation of a wooden staircase with your own hands is shown below in the video:

To create a template, solid wood strips are nailed to square plywood at an angle, but not exactly at the corners. The indentation will be 5 cm from the corners. When cutting grooves, the beams must have a mirror arrangement relative to each other. To mark the grooves, draw a line along the long outer edge of the beam. Indentation 50 mm. This is the reference line. Then the template moves along the longitudinal part of this line, and the contours of the grooves are drawn. When moving, the wooden plank slides smoothly along the upper edge of the workpiece.

The upper sections of the grooves mate with a precisely drawn reference line. You can make holes in the beam manually, but the recommended option is a hand-held milling machine. Cutting is carried out along an oblique line to the fibers.

For a more detailed consideration of the issue, below you can see how the installation of wooden stairs is carried out in the video:

To do this, use a router and cut it using a stencil. To prepare a stencil, two beams are nailed to a rectangular piece of plywood parallel to the edge on the string. The gap between the bars is equal to the width of the bowstring. A stencil is laid on the workpiece coating, a reference line is drawn that coincides with the line on the beam.

A stencil for the steps is taken, the slats are removed from it and the newly created template for milling is laid on it. The reference lines are aligned. Lines are drawn corresponding to the sides of the tread. Place the step on the stencil in the area where the tread line was created and trace it with a pencil.

Cutting the gap. Take a jigsaw or electric drill and create a slightly larger gap for the step. The goats are being prepared. A bowstring is placed on them and a stencil is applied to it. The lines of the first step and the tread on the stencil are combined, the stencil is pinned in this place.

A milling cutter is used to cut out a gap of 15 or 20 mm. You can go through the corners with a chisel. The remaining grooves are cut in the same way.

Assembly of steps

The grooves and ends of the tread are smeared with glue and the steps are inserted into the gaps until they stop. To improve the connection between the tread and the string, screws are screwed on the outer part. To prevent the screw heads from protruding from the beam, they must be buried in the string and wooden plugs placed on top. The elements are puttied and polished.

Fastening balusters and railings

Before installing the supports, a fishing line is stretched along the line of the railing. The height of the racks is aligned using it: a marking is created and a cut is made at a given angle. To form the same angle on all elements, a machine is used.

Floor mounting:

To fix solid elements, metal hardware (studs and screws) is used. Wooden dowels are also used. However, for them it is necessary to make gaps of a larger cross-section. For reliability, you will need to apply glue. You can use steel rods formed by cutting off the heads of nails.

It is not recommended to use nails to fix balusters. Now drilled recesses are created in the ends of the supports. To maintain central placement, you will need to fix the position of the drill, and install a beam that acts as a guide.

Fastening for balusters:

  1. Hairpins.
  2. Dowels.
  3. Self-tapping screws.
  4. Special ties are often used.

Attention! Supports for structures on stringers are placed on the step, but this reduces its area.

The distance is maintained at a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the tread. Before attaching the racks to the flight of stairs, the point of their placement on the steps is marked. Then, in the marking areas, gaps are drilled with a cross-section 1 mm smaller than the cross-section of the studs.

They are screwed into the gaps on the end parts of the racks. A screwdriver or wrench will serve this purpose. The nuts on the fasteners are removed, and the supports are screwed to the steps. Metal fasteners with threads will increase the level of reliability of connections.

Dowels. The fasteners look like wooden studs without threads. The installation principle is similar to the previous one, but larger gaps are created for the dowels. Dowels coated with glue are placed in these gaps and secure the supports to the ladder installation.

Attaching the stands to the bowstring and to the floor

Using the same fastenings, the supports are fixed to the bowstring. Their connection is formed not only on the upper edge of the bowstring. Can be mounted to the side edge. To do this, gaps are created in the racks, screwed in with screws and closed with matching plugs. Sometimes the supports are attached to the floor, for example using a sub-balustrade rail. On the other hand, supports are fixed to it with Euroscrews. Along with the fastening for the supports, glue is used.

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