Materials for hoods in a private house. Supply ventilation in a private house. Deciding on the optimal system

Even at the stage of designing a house, you need to think about fresh air in the premises. Moreover, it may be that self-designed ventilation will work no worse than professionally designed one. Perhaps the solution will not be so elegant - the main thing is that it is workable.

Definition and severity of the problem

Ventilation refers to the specially organized movement of air masses. It is necessary to create comfortable and healthy living conditions for humans. In general, the system is very difficult to calculate. There are simply no standard solutions that suit everyone or at least some group of users. Each project is individual. Even the location of one grille or fan plays a role. A lot depends on the position of the house relative to the wind rose and many other little things. For self-designed ventilation to work well, you need to seriously understand.

Ventilation is an organized exchange of air masses, during which exhaust air is replaced with fresh air

So you understand how serious this is

According to sanitary standards, one person at rest processes about 30 cubic meters of air per hour. If the air is not renewed, oxygen becomes less and less, carbon dioxide and other waste products become more and more. As the amount of oxygen decreases, your health worsens. Prolonged lack of oxygen provokes the development of diseases.

A few numbers, physiologists, reflecting the influence of the level of carbon dioxide CO2 on the human condition:

Physiologists consider the carbon dioxide content in the air at 1400 ppm to be the lowest point for relatively normal human functioning. All indicators with a large amount of carbon dioxide are already beyond the bounds.

A good example

To assess the severity of the situation without ventilation, we present a graph of CO2 levels. It was filmed as an experiment. To assess how necessary ventilation is in a modern house/apartment with plastic windows and thermal insulation measures taken.

Experimental conditions. Bedroom 13 square meters (37 cubic meters), one person and one medium-sized dog. The house has exhaust ventilation, a riser in the kitchen and in the boiler room. An exhaust fan is installed in the boiler room, which runs on a timer half the night and half the day. There is no air supply, fresh air is available through windows that have ventilation and micro-ventilation functions.

Information to explain the graph:

• Point 1. From 20 o'clock - work at the computer, doors slightly open, window closed.
• Point 2. The window was opened, the doors were slightly open, everyone left the room.
• Between 1-2 they returned to the room, closed the window, then opened it. All this can be tracked by fluctuations in CO2 levels.
• Point 3. At 3:35 the doors and windows are closed, the man and the dog are sleeping.
• Point 4. 9-20 am, the man woke up. The CO2 level is 2600 ppm, which is significantly below the extreme norm. The window was opened, and the carbon dioxide level returned to normal in less than an hour (Point 5).

As you can see from the graph, most of the night passes with very high concentrations of carbon dioxide. This may be the cause of fatigue and poor health in the morning. In general, everything is clear. If you wish, you can conduct a similar experiment yourself. All you need is a weather station with the ability to measure carbon dioxide levels (with memory). Looking at the results of the experiment, the importance of the ventilation system is difficult to overestimate. Let's figure out how it works.

The principle of operation of ventilation of a house and apartment

All ventilation systems are divided into two types - with natural air movement and with forced one.

Air always moves from a zone of higher pressure to a zone of lower pressure. This property is used in natural ventilation systems. The higher pressure area is usually located in the apartment/house. If there are ventilation ducts/openings, air from the premises should tend to flow outside. But a new one must take the place of the “departed” one, otherwise the movement will stop. That is why for the normal operation of the ventilation system, both an outflow of exhaust air and an influx of fresh air are necessary. And this is worth taking care of. Only then will ventilation - whether made/developed by yourself or not - work effectively.

Keep in mind that “breathing” walls have nothing to do with air exchange. At best, they help regulate humidity. But only. Likewise, a regular air conditioner does not add oxygen. It only maintains the specified parameters of the existing air. It only removes excess moisture and has nothing to do with air exchange. Air inflow must be ensured in the same way as outflow, using windows (not the most effective way) or special devices.

Inflow problems

It would seem that there is nothing simpler - make a hole in the wall - here you have an influx of oxygen. This may be true somewhere, but not in our climate, when most of the year the temperature outside is far from comfortable. What's wrong? A number of unpleasant moments:

As you can see, a “simple” hole in the wall becomes a very complex device. Moreover, little from this list can be neglected. Existence will be too uncomfortable.

Exhaust ventilation

Exhaust ventilation in an apartment building is a large pipe that runs through all floors and goes out to the roof. All apartments “in the riser” are connected to it. Under normal conditions, due to the difference in pressure in the apartment and on the roof, a “draft” is formed, which draws air from the premises (it also works when there is an inflow).

This is how you can organize exhaust ventilation in a house or apartment. You just need to take into account that the channel must “pull” the entire required volume of air

In apartment buildings, risers are usually located in the kitchen and/or bathroom. All other rooms are ventilated through these hoods. For normal air exchange in the bathroom and kitchen doors, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps (under the door or make flow holes in the wall) or install grilles.

In a private house, everything is organized in approximately the same way: a main ventilation duct is installed in the kitchen or bathroom, which is led to the roof. There is no point in finishing it in the attic. Even if the attic is cold and ventilated. When there is a difference in temperature and high humidity in the removed air, a large amount of condensation is formed. Even with good ventilation in the attic, it does not have time to escape, the ceiling gets wet, and the walls become damp. In general, this is a bad idea.

Air duct material

A few words about the material from which the exhaust ventilation duct in a private house is made. Most often, galvanized pipes are used, and they are of round cross-section. Their resistance to air flow is minimal. They take second place in popularity. There are more problems with them - they accumulate static, which contributes to the accumulation of dust, and are less resistant to fire. The advantages include simpler installation, the presence of ready-made shaped elements, with the help of which it is easy to create any system. In the case of these materials, the choice is yours - use what you like best.

What you shouldn’t do is remove the exhaust duct from the brick. Firstly, it is expensive (you also need a foundation for it), and secondly, it is the most problematic to use, since it has uneven walls, which contributes to the accumulation of dust. Condensation accumulates in brick walls that are not covered with a metal sleeve, causing the brick to quickly collapse. In general, brick exhaust ducts are a thing of the past.

Additional devices

What else may be needed in an exhaust system are check valves. They prevent the air from moving in the opposite direction, which occurs when the draft is overturned.” When the pressure in the apartment/house becomes lower than outside. Also, check valves prevent the spread of odors from the kitchen/toilet to other rooms connected to the duct.

Check valves - a simple device

In general, the design of the exhaust system is simpler. But only if the cross-section of the ventilation duct is correctly calculated, the route is correctly drawn up and installation is carried out correctly.

Natural or forced

There are two types of ventilation - natural and forced. What's better? It's difficult to say for sure. Everyone decides for themselves, taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages of both types.

Natural ventilation in a house works due to the difference in pressure indoors and outdoors (due to the existence of that very “natural draft”). Its advantages are noiselessness and independence from electricity. Disadvantages - low productivity due to which large cross-section pipes are required, inability to control/regulate the intensity of work, dependence on the state of the external environment. In summer, natural ventilation often does not work, and sometimes it works in the opposite direction. This is when hot air is “pulled” into the room through the exhaust ventilation duct.

Forced ventilation in a private house - install fans of a suitable type

In forced ventilation, air movement is provided by fans. It can be adjustable and works in any weather, but only if there is electricity and working fans. And this is a minus. Even two. The first is energy dependence, the second is the noise that fans make during operation. Therefore, many people prefer to use plastic air ducts in forced ventilation systems. Precisely because they are “quiet”.

Ventilation schemes for private houses and apartments

The simplest option is implemented in small houses and apartments. Supply openings are located in living rooms, hoods - in the kitchen and bathroom. The air entering the premises penetrates through the cracks under the doors into the kitchen and bathroom, where it is exhausted. This scheme works for an area of ​​no more than 100 square meters.

When the supply ventilation is separate devices in each room, the exhaust is through the kitchen or bathroom

In houses with a total area of ​​more than one hundred and fifty square meters, two separate systems are organized - supply and exhaust. Each of them has its own air duct system. With this arrangement, each room has exhaust and supply openings in each room. In this case, adjusting the intensity of air inflow and outflow is possible in each room - you can adjust the atmosphere to the requirements of its inhabitants.

With a centralized supply ventilation system, it is easier to prepare the air taken from the street - you can create a unified cleaning and heating system. The prepared air can now be distributed throughout the premises. In this case, each room has two ventilation openings - one supply, one exhaust. They are located in opposite corners and covered with grilles or diffusers.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house can be organized in this way: the supply is decentralized, the exhaust is centralized

Even with a large area of ​​the house, the supply ventilation system can be made decentralized, as in the first scheme. With the correct selection of equipment, it will work no less efficiently. The question is which will be more economically profitable, since the problem of air preparation for each supply channel will have to be solved. And the equipment is not cheap at all.

DIY ventilation: action plan

To design a ventilation system yourself, you will have to perform a number of actions. It's easier if the sequence is known.

Preparatory work

Collecting information and basic calculations - this is where the independent creation of a ventilation project begins.

Preliminary data is ready. Take some time to think about where and what devices should be located.

Parameter calculations and detailing

When all the issues regarding the scheme have been resolved, it has taken its final form, we proceed to detailing. First, there are also calculations, then you have to look for the components of the system, decide which company to use the equipment and reduce the budget.

Installation and configuration

“All that remains” is to find, buy, install. Little has been written, but it will take a lot of effort, time, and nerves to implement this point. Only after this can we say that the DIY ventilation is completely ready.

But that’s not all. Self-made ventilation must be started and adjusted. This is also not the easiest process to achieve coordinated operation of the system as a whole. Then, during operation, reconfiguration has to be done frequently. When the season changes, the number of residents changes, weather conditions change. In general, adjusting the ventilation system is another responsibility of the home owner.

By the way, we advise you to think about it. Do-it-yourself ventilation (meaning installation) will cost less, but it requires more knowledge and time. Knowledge can be gained, but if there is a lack of time, you will have to look for and hire performers, then accept their work.

Other solutions

The market does not stand still, and today new solutions are being offered. For example, there are recuperation systems that immediately, through one hole in the wall, remove exhaust air and supply fresh air. This is an ideal solution if you have taken care of ventilation after renovation or if you need to solve the problem only in some rooms. The main thing is that these rooms have at least one wall facing the street.

There is only one drawback of this method of organizing ventilation in a house or apartment - the price of such equipment. The cost of one such device is more than $400.

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How to make sure that the house is fresh, warm and dry, without drafts and dust?

In private homes, a natural ventilation system has become widespread, in which the movement of air is determined by the difference in air temperatures indoors and outdoors. The popularity of natural ventilation is explained by the simplicity of the system design and its low cost.

As a rule, simple and cheap are not the most effective and profitable. In countries where people are more concerned about their health and consider the cost of maintaining housing, Various forced ventilation systems have become widespread in private homes.

In private homes the following are used: forced ventilation systems:

• Forced exhaust ventilation, when air is removed from the premises of the house forcibly, and the flow of air from the street occurs naturally, through supply valves.
• Forced supply and exhaust ventilation, in which both the influx and removal of air into the premises of the house is forced.

Forced ventilation can be local (distributed) or centralized. IN local forced ventilation system Electric fans are installed in every room of the house where it is needed. IN centralized forced ventilation system the fans are located in one ventilation unit, which is connected by pipes to the premises of the house.

Natural ventilation system in a private house - features and disadvantages

The natural ventilation system in a private house consists of vertical channels that begin in the ventilated room and end above the roof ridge.

The upward movement of air through the channels occurs under the influence of forces (thrust) caused by the difference in air temperatures at the inlet and outlet of the channel. Warm indoor air is lighter than cold outdoor air.

The draft in the ventilation channel is also influenced by the wind, which can either increase or decrease the draft. The traction force also depends on other factors: the height and cross-section of the ventilation duct, the presence of turns and narrowings, thermal insulation of the duct, etc.

Scheme of ventilation of premises in a multi-storey private house

According to building regulations, the natural ventilation channel must provide standard air exchange at outside air temperature +5 o C , without taking into account the influence of wind.

In summer, when the outside air temperature is higher than specified, air exchange worsens. Air circulation through natural ventilation channels almost completely stops when the outside air temperature is above +15 o C.

In winter, the colder it is outside, the stronger the traction and higher. According to some estimates, heat loss in winter through the natural ventilation system can reach 40% of all heat loss at home.

In houses, natural ventilation ducts usually come from the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler room and dressing rooms. Additional channels are provided for ventilation of the basement or for the device.

On the upper floors of a private house it is also often necessary to install additional natural ventilation channels from living rooms in order to ensure the air exchange required by standards.

In the attic rooms natural ventilation, as a rule, cannot provide the required air exchange due to a lack of draft in low-height ventilation ducts.

Natural ventilation standards

Russian building rules SP 55.13330.2011 “Single-apartment residential houses”, clause 8.4. require:

Minimum performance of the home ventilation system in maintenance mode should be determined based on at least one exchange of air volume per hour in rooms with constant presence of people.

In service mode, at least 60 m3 of air per hour must be removed from the kitchen, and 25 m3 of air per hour from the bathtub and restroom.

The air exchange rate in other rooms, as well as in all ventilated rooms in non-working mode, must be at least 0.2 room volume per hour.

A room with permanent occupancy is a room in which people are expected to stay for at least 2 hours continuously or 6 hours in total during the day.

For comparison, here are the requirements for ventilation performance in an apartment building, at a minimum:

The amount of air exchange specified in the standards must be ensured for the design conditions: outside air temperature +5 o C, and indoor air temperature during the cold season (for residential premises +22 o C) .

The supply of outside air to the premises should be provided through special air supply devices in external walls or windows.

For apartments and premises in which the outside temperature is +5 °C removal of the normalized air flow is not ensured; mechanical exhaust ventilation should be provided.

Mechanical ventilation with partial use of natural ventilation systems for air supply or removal (mixed ventilation) should also be provided during periods of the year when microclimate parameters and air quality cannot be ensured by natural ventilation.

For example, when the outside temperature is above +5 o C, the performance of natural ventilation channels is reduced. In this case, it is allowed to increase air exchange in rooms with windows by opening windows, vents and transoms. In rooms without windows, mechanical forced exhaust ventilation should be provided.

The natural ventilation system in a private house works as follows

In old houses and apartments, fresh air from the street penetrates into the living rooms through leaks in wooden windows, then through the overflow holes in the doors(usually the gap between the edge of the door and the floor) reaches the kitchen and bathrooms and exits into the natural ventilation channel.

The main purpose of such ventilation is to remove combustion products, gas, moisture and odors from the kitchen and bathrooms. Living rooms in such a system are not sufficiently ventilated. In rooms, you have to open the windows for ventilation.

If modern sealed window designs are used in the house, for the flow of fresh air it is necessary to install special supply valves in the outer walls of the rooms or in the windows.

Often, supply valves are not installed even in new houses. For air flow you have to keep the window sashes ajar at all times, at best, by installing “micro-ventilation” fittings on the windows. (First we choose and pay money for airtight windows with several levels of seals to protect against cold, noise and dust, and then we keep them constantly ajar!? :-?)

You can also often see how airtight doors are installed in rooms of the house, without a gap at the floor or other opening for air passage. Installing airtight doors cuts off the natural circulation of air between rooms of the house.

Many are not even aware of the need ensure a constant flow of fresh air into the rooms and air circulation between rooms. Having installed plastic windows and sealed doors, they still live in stuffiness, with condensation and mold. And in the indoor air there is an increased concentration of deadly gases - and insidious gases.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

All these open vents, slightly open sashes, cracks in windows, valve openings in external walls and windows cause drafts, serve as a source of street dust, allergenic pollen, insects and street noise.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation in our homes is the lack of control and regulation of the amount of air supplied and removed from the premises.

As a result, often the house is stuffy, high humidity, condensation on the windows and in other places, fungus and mold appear. Usually, this indicates that the ventilation is not doing its job - removing pollution and excess moisture released into the room air. The amount of air escaping through the ventilation is clearly not enough.

In other houses in winter it’s often the other way around, the air is very dry with relative humidity less than 30% (comfortable humidity 40-60%). This indicates that too much air is being lost through the ventilation. The frosty, dry air entering the house does not have time to become saturated with moisture and immediately goes into the ventilation duct. And heat goes away with the air. We get discomfort of the indoor microclimate and heat loss.

In summer, the draft in the natural ventilation channel decreases, until the air movement in the channel completely stops. In this case, the rooms are ventilated by opening the windows. Other rooms without windows, for example, a bathroom, toilet, dressing room, cannot be ventilated in this way. Such In rooms that remain without ventilation in the summer, moist air easily and quickly accumulates, and then the smell, fungus and mold appears.

How to improve natural ventilation

The operation of natural ventilation can be made more economical if you install an automatic valve at the entrance to the ventilation duct, controlled by a humidity sensor. The degree to which the valve opens will depend on the air humidity in the room - the higher the humidity, the more the valve is open.

They install in the rooms supply valves controlled by an outside air temperature sensor. As the temperature decreases, the air density increases and the valve must be closed to prevent excess cold air from entering the room.

Automation of valve operation will reduce heat loss with air escaping through ventilation by 20-30%, and the overall heat loss of the house by 7-10%.

It should be understood that such local automation of the operation of each individual valve will not be able to fully eliminate the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system in the house. Installing automatic valves will only slightly improve the performance of ventilation, especially in winter.

At a minimum, you can install adjustable grilles and valves on the supply and exhaust ducts, and adjust them manually, at least twice a year. During the winter period, they are covered, and with the onset of warmth, the exhaust grilles and supply valves are opened completely.

Building regulations allow the rate of air exchange in non-operating modes of premises to be reduced to 0.2 room volume per hour, i.e. five times. There will always be rarely used rooms in the house. Especially on the upper floors of the house. In winter, be sure to close ventilation valves in rarely used rooms.

A ventilator in the outer wall provides a forced flow of air into the room. Fan power only 3 -7 W.

Compared to a supply valve, the ventilator has the following advantages:

• The volume of air coming from the street is limited only by the power of the fan.
• They create excess pressure in the room, due to which air exchange increases in houses and apartments with poorly functioning exhaust ventilation ducts, and also prevents the suction of polluted air from neighboring rooms and the basement.
• Reduce the dependence of natural ventilation on climatic factors.
• Deep air purification from dust, allergens and odors is achievable through the use of more efficient filters with high aerodynamic resistance.
• Provide the best.

Ventilators equipped with an electronic climate control system, air heating, and special filters are often called breathers.

Inexpensive electronic devices for home use are available that measure air humidity. Hang such a device on the wall and adjust the throughput of the ventilation channels, focusing on the readings of the device. Maintain optimal air humidity in residential areas of 40-60%.

Check the presence and size of ventilation openings to move air between rooms in the house. The area of ​​the overflow hole for the exit of air from the living room must be at least 200 cm 2. Usually they leave a gap between the edge of the door and the floor in the room 2-3 cm.

Overflow hole for air entry into the kitchen, bathroom or to another room equipped with a ventilation exhaust duct, must have an area of ​​at least 800 cm 2. Here it is better to install a ventilation grille at the bottom of the door or interior wall of the room.

When moving from a room to a room with a ventilation duct, air should pass through no more than two flow openings (two doors).

Ventilation ducts that pass through an unheated room (attic) must be insulated. Rapid cooling of the air in the channel reduces draft and leads to condensation from the removed air. The route of the natural ventilation channel should not have horizontal sections, which also reduce draft.

Fan in the natural ventilation duct

To improve the operation of natural ventilation, kitchen hoods are installed, as well as electric fans at the entrance of ventilation ducts. Such fans are suitable only for short-term and intensive ventilation of rooms during periods of significant moisture and pollution. The fans make a lot of noise; their performance, and therefore power consumption, exceeds the values ​​required for constant ventilation.

It should be noted that installing a fan in an existing natural ventilation duct reduces the lumen of the duct. Autorotation of the blades (rotation of the blades of an idle fan under the pressure of incoming air) further increases the aerodynamic resistance of the channel. As a result, installation fan significantly reduces the force of natural draft in the duct.

A similar situation occurs when a kitchen hood above the stove is connected to the only natural ventilation channel in the kitchen.

Filters, valves and a fan in the kitchen hood practically block the natural draft in the ventilation duct. A kitchen with the hood turned off remains without ventilation, which impairs air exchange throughout the house.

To correct the situation, into the air duct between the natural ventilation duct and the kitchen hood It is recommended to place a tee with a check valve on the side outlet. When the hood is not working, the check valve opens, ensuring free passage of air from the kitchen into the ventilation duct.

When you turn on the kitchen hood A large amount of warm air is released into the street for the sole purpose of removing odors and other contaminants that form above the stove.

To prevent heat loss, it is recommended to install an umbrella over the kitchen stove, equipped with a fan, filters and odor absorbers for deep air purification. After filtration, the air, purified from odors and contaminants, is sent back into the room. This type of hood is often called a filter hood with recirculation. It should be borne in mind that the savings from lower heating costs are somewhat offset due to the need to periodically replace filters in the hood.

Available for sale fans controlled by a humidity sensor. The fan turns on when a certain threshold of humidity in the room is reached and turns off when it decreases. All of the above features of the operation of fans in a natural ventilation system are preserved when working with a humidity sensor.

In any case, fan operation only leads to an increase in draft in the ventilation duct and a decrease in humidity in the room. But it is not able to limit natural draft, preventing excessive dry air and heat loss in winter.

In addition, in the natural ventilation system, several elements located in different parts of the house work in concert - supply valves, exhaust ducts, flow grilles between rooms.

Turning on a fan in one of the channels often leads to disruption of the operation of other elements of the system. For example, the supply valves in the house often cannot pass the sharply increased amount of air required for the fan to operate. As a result, when you turn on the hood in the kitchen, the draft in the exhaust duct in the bathroom overturns - air from the street begins to enter the house through the exhaust duct in the bathroom.

Natural ventilation in a private house is a system:

• simple and cheap to install;
• does not have any mechanisms requiring an electric drive;
• reliable, does not break;
• very cheap to operate - costs are associated only with the need to perform periodic inspections and cleaning of ventilation ducts;
• does not make noise;
• the efficiency of its operation strongly depends on atmospheric conditions - most of the time the ventilation does not operate in optimal mode;
• has a limited ability to adjust its performance, only in the direction of reducing air exchange;
• in winter, the operation of the natural ventilation system leads to significant heat loss;
• in summer the ventilation system does not work, ventilation of the premises is possible only through open windows and vents;
• there is no possibility of preparing the air supplied to the room - filtration, heating or cooling, changing humidity;
• does not provide the necessary comfort (air exchange) - which causes stuffiness, dampness (fungi, mold) and drafts, and also serves as a source of street dust (pollen) and insects, and reduces the sound insulation of rooms.

Ventilation of the upper floors of a multi-storey private house

In a multi-storey building, as in a large ventilation duct, there is a natural draft, under the influence of which air from the first floor rushes up the stairs to the upper floors.

If we do not take any measures, then on the upper floors of the house we will always have stuffiness and high humidity, and in the house there will be a temperature difference between floors.

There are two options for installing natural ventilation in the upper floors of the house.

Read:

Ventilation in a wooden house

It’s interesting that traditional for Russia houses with walls made of logs or timber do not have special devices for ventilation. Ventilation of rooms in such houses occurs due to walls (“breathing walls”), ceilings and windows, as well as as a result of air movement through the chimney when the stove is fired.

In the construction of a modern wooden house, various methods of sealing are increasingly being used - machine profiling of the mating surfaces of logs and beams, sealants for inter-crown seams, vapor-tight and windproof films in ceilings, sealed windows. The walls of the house are sheathed and insulated, and treated with various toxic compounds.

As a rule, there are no stoves in the rooms of the house.

A ventilation system in such modern wooden houses is simply necessary.

Ventilation of dressing rooms and storage rooms

Ventilation must be provided in the dressing room or storage room. Without ventilation, rooms will smell, humidity will increase, and condensation, mildew and mold may even appear on the walls.

The natural ventilation scheme for these rooms should exclude the flow of air from the dressing room or storage room into the living rooms.

If the doors of these rooms open onto the corridor, hall or kitchen, then the rooms are ventilated in the same way as the living rooms in the house are ventilated. To bring in fresh air from the street, a supply valve is placed in the window (if there is one) or in the wall. In the doors of the dressing room, pantries, a gap is left at the bottom, between the door and the floor, or another hole is made for air passage, for example, a ventilation grill is inserted into the lower part of the door.

Fresh air enters the dressing room or pantry through the supply valve, then leaves through the hole in the door into the corridor, and then goes to the kitchen, into the exhaust duct of the natural ventilation of the house.

There should be more than two doors between the dressing room or storage room and the room where there is a natural ventilation channel.

If the doors of the dressing room open into the living room, then the movement of air for ventilation of the dressing room should be organized in the opposite direction - from the living room, through the hole in the door, into the ventilation duct of the dressing room. In this version The dressing room is equipped with a natural ventilation channel.

Ventilation in your city

Ventilation

Ventilation of a private house. Air flows in the house - video:

The purpose of ventilation is to improve the air quality in the home. There is a conflict between the need to improve air quality and minimize the cost of modern ventilation and reduce its energy consumption.

Meanwhile, ventilation is not the only way to improve indoor air quality. The most important thing is to control the sources of air pollution. We are talking about everyday habits, such as not smoking in the room, making sure that bacteria and fungi do not multiply in the apartment.

The quality of air in a home clearly depends on whether materials with low levels of harmful emissions are used for construction. Natural materials such as wood, stone or glass are considered primarily as such.

By judicious selection of materials during the construction phase, good home air quality can be maintained even if a less expensive and energy-intensive ventilation system is installed.

More articles on this topic:

We believe that FORUMHOUSE users will agree with the statement that a competent approach to the ventilation system is as follows - first of all, it is necessary to calculate the air exchange, then, based on this data, select the required cross-section of air ducts. And only after this can you draw up a ventilation scheme for the cottage and determine the installation location of the ventilation equipment.

Types and features

According to the user our portal (nickname on the forumpetrovk, Moscow) ventilation in the house can be divided into three types:

• Natural;
• Inflow, or as it is also called, mechanical;
• Supply and exhaust unit with heat recovery.

petrovk:

– When designing a ventilation system, you should be guided by the following principle – The air in the house should be completely renewed within 1 hour. For my frame house of 200 m2, I settled on a flow-exhaust installation with heat recovery. The installation is selected based on the number of cubic meters of air in the house, I have 600, I took the installation for 700 cubic meters.

It should be remembered that a comfortable environment in the house is created not only due to the supply of fresh air, but also due to the speed of air flow. Supply and exhaust ventilation, due to the presence of a fan in it, creates a greater air flow than natural ventilation.

When mechanical ventilation is operating, the air movement speed in the ventilation system is on average 3-5 m3/hour, and with natural ventilation it is about 1m3/hour. Let's try to figure out whether natural ventilation creates a more comfortable environment in the house. This question is not as simple as it seems. After all, in order to pass the same volume of air through the mechanical and natural ventilation systems, a different cross-section of the ventilation duct is required. This means that the installation of natural ventilation will entail an increase in the cross-section of the channel, which is not always possible from a technical or aesthetic point of view.

With any type of ventilation - regardless of whether it is natural or mechanical - it is necessary to ensure unhindered air movement throughout the house.

One option is to install doors with a cross-flow grille in the rooms or leave a small gap between the door and the floor. To properly organize the flow of air, it is necessary that the air be taken in in the cleanest room, the living room or bedroom, and taken out in the kitchen or bathroom.

In the kitchen, above the stove, the hood should run through a separate channel. If the hood is forced, then the kitchen and bathroom can be combined with one ventilation duct. The diameter from inlet to outlet should not decrease. Due to the specific nature of the kitchen hood, the air duct from it must be round, galvanized and vertical, without elbows. Do not use corrugated, aluminum or plastic ductwork.

Consultant of our forumElena Gorbunova(nickname on the forum Matilda ):

– Natural ventilation works when there is a pressure difference between the inlet and outlet. The entrance is an exhaust valve; it is placed in the ceiling of the room or in the wall under the ceiling. The exit is the top of the pipe. The drop starts from 10 meters. The pressure difference also depends on the temperature difference. It is better in winter and worse in summer.

Natural inflow is made over heating appliances, which are usually located under the windows. Or two meters above the floor.

The question often arises,

Is it possible to combine the ventilation ducts of the kitchen, bathroom and boiler room into a single system, then install a duct fan, and take everything out through the roof with one pipe.

User of our forum Vladimir(nickname on the forum Careless Angel ) believes that:

– Under no circumstances should you combine the exhaust hood with the sewer, then the whole house will smell like a toilet, regardless of whether the air duct is installed before or after the fan.

The material from which the ventilation ducts for a private home are made is also of great importance. One of the best options is the use of spiral-wound galvanized air ducts. But during self-installation, developers massively use ventilation ducts made from a sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

Matilda :

– Sewage pipes cannot be used. In general, plastic cannot be used for air ducts, unless these are special antistatic pipes. In this case, dust will stick to the walls. In addition, sewer pipes have a small diameter. And the draft directly depends on the diameter of the air duct and the height difference. The difference in the cottages is quite small - this is not a high-rise building. This means that with a small diameter, there will be practically no traction, especially in summer. And if you install a fan, the sewer pipes will make a very unpleasant sound when the air moves.

Air ducts for ventilation for private homes - requirements and features

In order for the ventilation system to work with maximum efficiency, it is necessary that the inner surface of the air duct provides minimal resistance to air movement. Let's see how to choose the right one V air ducts for ventilation of your home.

Matilda :

- The main task
ducting is to allow air to move freely from the point of air intake to the point of its exit. And be safe from an environmental and fire safety point of view. Any loss of pressure greatly affects or eliminates air exchange during natural ventilation. Pressure losses arise from the uneven surface of the air duct, in horizontal sections, in elbows, tees, etc. With a rectangular duct shape, losses are higher than with a round one, and dust accumulates in them well.

Flexible - corrugated air duct has the greatest air resistance. And it is best used when it is necessary to make a turn or attach a kitchen hood to the ventilation duct.

Very often, developers, for various reasons, do not want to install the outlet through the roof, preferring to install the ventilation duct through the wall. It is not right.

Matilda :

– Never, under any circumstances, vent through a wall. You'll ruin the façade.

Within a couple of years there will be a visible stain on the wall around the exit.
And thus, it is also pointless to remove natural ventilation, since there will be absolutely no difference in height, and, accordingly, pressure.

If, with a forced ventilation system, all air ducts are connected by elbows and adapters to one vertical duct, then it is recommended to install an E190P fan on the roof.

To control this fan, a thyristor speed controller is placed in a convenient place. And the air ducts themselves are taken with a diameter of 125 mm.

At FORUMHOUSE you will find an article about, a lot of useful information, a fascinating discussionchoice And after reading our video, youYou will be able to clearly see how an integrated approach to ventilation design allows you not only to provide your home with fresh air, but also to save money.

Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

Air circulation, when organizing a natural ventilation system, occurs due to the pressure difference in the ventilation shaft, due to which a draft arises that pushes the internal air out.

The efficiency of room ventilation with this type of ventilation device is influenced by the following factors:

• The pressure value at the outer and inner sections of the ventilation pipe. The traction power increases with the height of the exhaust duct.
• The temperature value outside the room and inside where the ventilation is located. Cooled air is heavier, so it pushes out the lighter air in the room below. As a result, the used air from inside rushes into the air duct.
• Condensation level in the room. Vapors are lighter than cool air, and therefore, at a stable temperature, they rise and exit through the air ducts.

In addition to the listed main factors, the ability of the system to cope with maintaining a comfortable microclimate in the building is also influenced by readings of atmospheric pressure, humidity and temperature.

When the temperature inside and outside is similar, the draft deteriorates noticeably, and excessive heating of the air masses outside can lead to reverse draft. In such a situation, only a high-height ventilation duct can save the situation.

The installation of natural ventilation in a wooden house, in buildings built of brick or aerated concrete, and in multi-storey buildings can significantly save costs, while the efficiency of air exchange does not suffer from this.

Exhaust air ducts and shafts in all structures are installed exclusively in partitions or taken outside. If installed outdoors, you will have to spend money on additional pipe insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

In residential construction, natural ventilation devices are installed taking into account the requirements of SNIP and the principles of modern eco-design. Despite compliance with standards, such devices have both positive and negative properties.

The positive points include:

• low cost of organizing natural ventilation;
• infrequent routine maintenance to keep the system normal;
• unlike forced systems, there is no noise;
• installation of ventilation devices does not cause complications even for beginners;
• it will take very little time to build a ventilation duct;
• no additional costs are required to support the functionality of the system;
• the service life of the system is not limited;
• natural ventilation is not an object of increased danger and does not cause emergency situations;
• These systems can be combined with forced ventilation.

Negative points include:

• these systems are not able to regulate the speed of the exhaust flow: with high humidity in the room, this feature causes the appearance of fungus or mold;
• poorly protected air supply devices do not retain dust, tiny insects and plant seeds, as a result of which more effort must be expended to maintain order in the room;
• installation of protective nets disrupts normal air circulation and cannot be a solution to this problem;
• in winter, when rooms are ventilated naturally, serious heat losses occur;
• dependence of the efficiency of the hood on the street temperature and wind strength.

How to calculate system performance

• Room area.
• The rate of complete exchange of air in a room in one hour.
• Standards for providing fresh air according to SANPIN per person (for normal living conditions, 30 m 3 / hour is taken into account).

The main condition for effective air circulation in a room is the equality of supply and exhaust volumes.

A step-by-step calculation algorithm will help determine the required volume of air for further selection of suitable equipment:

1. To get the full volume of air in the house, you need to add up the volume of all rooms. Based on the standards of air consumption in various rooms of the home and the volume indicators of these rooms, the average rate of complete air exchange should be derived.
2. Multiplying the resulting multiplicity by the total volume, we obtain the volume that is necessary for the intake and removal of air per hour.
3. Based on this indicator, the number and power of devices providing inflow and exhaust parameters are calculated. When making calculations, you must be guided by the instructions and technical characteristics of the devices used and the type of exhaust duct.

This calculation does not take into account changes in traction power in different climatic conditions. To obtain more accurate data, you will have to make more complex calculations.

The organization of natural ventilation in a frame house differs from the equipment of buildings made of logs or timber. In log houses, the level of natural inflow is higher than in frame houses (due to uneven shrinkage and the presence of gaps). Accordingly, to normalize the inflow in frame buildings, it will be necessary to additionally use mechanical devices.

Natural ventilation standards

Modern SNIPs regulate ventilation standards for residential premises based on the value of total air exchange in a building, and is measured in the number of times or cubic meters per hour.

The standards for one-story residential buildings are:

• permanent residential premises – 1 full exchange per hour;
• kitchen – from 60 m 3 /hour (hood);
• bathroom - at least 25 3 / hour (hood);
• other premises – 0.2 full exchange per hour.

In addition to these standards, the value of outdoor air flow per person should be taken into account. This figure is 30 3 / hour.

Standards for natural ventilation in a multi-storey building take into account the presence of additional rooms:

• laundry – 90 3 /hour;
• gym – 80 3/hour;
• dressing room - 0.2 full exchange per hour;
• gas boiler houses - 1 full exchange per hour + 100 3 / hour.

There are special requirements and standards for ventilation equipment for basements, technical floors and attics.

Components of natural ventilation technology

Before making natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to determine the characteristics and number of supply and exhaust elements, and understand the method and location of the correct installation of these devices.

The natural ventilation system is constructed from vertical exhaust pipes (can be internal or external), devices that provide an influx of outside air and horizontal exchange air ducts.

For correct installation of devices, calculation of ventilation standards must be carried out for each room in the building.

Supply valves

To ensure the supply of outside air into the room, supply valves are used. The choice of design of supply equipment depends on the needs of the room. The number of devices and their productivity is determined based on calculations.

It is recommended to place devices that provide inflow at a height of 1800-2000 mm from the floor. When installing the equipment, it is necessary to provide for a slight inclination of the valve inside the wall. The outer end of the valve should be lower than the inner end. This arrangement will protect the room from precipitation getting inside.

Optimal position of the supply valve.

Exhaust ducts

Special hollow cinder blocks or plastic pipes are used as air ducts in individual buildings. To regulate the exhaust air removal process, the following devices are used:

• Adjustable louvres, allowing you to reduce or increase the area of ​​the exhaust window;
• Deflectors. This device, installed on the top of the ventilation duct, allows you to increase traction power;
• Traction boosters. It has a more complex, umbrella design, but performs the same function as the deflector.

Deflector.

Ventilation ducts

Ventilation ducts are installed to remove used air from rooms with high humidity or special-purpose rooms. Several ventilation ducts are combined in one outlet shaft.

Ventilation ducts are located along the internal walls. When laying ducts, it is necessary to ensure the unhindered passage of building structures (floors, rafters) so as not to disturb the verticality of the air duct.

When installing natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands, it is advisable to take into account the features of a comfortable air exchange device for constructed and existing buildings.

On the design of natural ventilation in a house under construction

The basic principle of drawing up a scheme for natural ventilation in a private house during the construction process is the location of the shafts. They are installed exclusively in internal partitions to ensure that the main part of the pipe is kept warm. This principle allows you to obtain sufficient exhaust power, especially at subzero outside air temperatures.

It is recommended to use rectangular elements for the installation of exhaust shafts. They can significantly save the interior space of the house, but if there is free space, you can install round pipes that create a more intense flow.

Plastic water pipes are used as pipes for the air duct, because... When using corrugated products, weak noises occur, but are perceptible to the human ear.

When ducting ventilation pipes through an unheated attic floor onto the roof, it is recommended to take care of additional insulation of the air duct in this room.

When installing the exhaust pipe, it is recommended to maintain verticality; if this condition cannot be maintained, bypass slopes should be made with a deviation angle not exceeding 30 degrees. Each transition offset from the main vertical axis takes about 10% of the power.

You should pay close attention to the air duct connecting points. Inaccurate articulation of individual elements, foreign objects, and roughness complicate the process of efficient operation of the hood.

The higher the duct pipe, the more efficient the exhaust process. It is recommended to install the ventilation fungus removal 500 mm above the roof ridge.

Recommended height of ventilation ducts above the roof.

To modernize ventilation in an already built house

To increase traction power and provide additional protection against the penetration of insects and dust into the structure, it is advisable to install a deflector at the end of the air duct. This device helps increase power by 20%.

Deflector on the exhaust pipe.

In rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to install exhaust fans. This measure turns the natural system into a combined one, but at the same time the dependence on weather conditions disappears. In addition, the installed devices will help balance the humidity and temperature conditions in these places and prevent the materials from rotting.

When a building is equipped with plastic windows and ventilation is rarely carried out in frosty times, in order to save heat, the efficiency of air mass circulation drops sharply. In such a situation, it is recommended to equip windows with special ventilation valves, which make it possible to organize the flow of outside air, and at the same time arbitrarily regulate the flow.

Ventilation valve in the window.

Each room in country buildings or a country house has features that must be taken into account when installing ventilation devices.

In the bathroom

For a toilet and bathroom in a country building, it is necessary to provide the possibility of micro-ventilation through windows or doors.

In the bath

When installing ventilation in the bathhouse, it is necessary to place a supply duct at the location where the stove is installed. Street air penetrates from below, gradually displacing warm air to the ceiling, heating itself. The exhaust valve in the steam room is installed under the ceiling.

I open the valves when necessary to quickly dry the steam room or washing room.

In the boiler room

If a country house is heated with gas, it must have a separate room for placing equipment. A gas boiler is an object of increased danger, therefore the requirements for boiler hood equipment are quite serious.

The boiler room ventilation is mounted separately and does not cut into the common exhaust pipe; most often, an external pipe is used to get rid of smoke and gas.

Supply units are used to deliver outside air to boiler rooms. The weak point of the natural supply and exhaust system in boiler rooms is its dependence on wind power. In calm, windless weather, it is impossible to provide good traction.

Rotating ventilation ducts reduces efficiency by 10%.

In living rooms

To ensure effective air circulation between individual rooms in the house, it is necessary to install small holes or gaps between the door leaf and the floor at the bottom of the door leaves.

In the kitchen

When installing an exhaust ventilation grille above the stove, you need to place this device at a distance of 2 meters from the floor. This position of the hood allows you to effectively remove excess heat, soot and odors, preventing them from spreading throughout the room.

Video on the topic

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In order for a private house to receive an influx of fresh air, as well as remove already polluted air, it is necessary to install a ventilation system - an exhaust hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if preliminary calculations are made that take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.

Natural ventilation

At the design stage of a house, a natural ventilation scheme must be drawn up. The principle of its operation is to ventilate the house due to the natural circulation of the air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the influx of fresh air and the exhaust of already humid air must be carried out through different rooms. Typically, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outlet space is called wet.

You can ventilate your house in four ways:

• channel, when the house is equipped with vertically located channels.
• ductless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
• permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant air flow, which enters through air ducts.
• periodic, when “new” air enters at certain intervals.

To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are installed on the exhaust ducts, which can operate either continuously or at set times. Accordingly, such equipment requires a connection to the power supply network.

Advantages

According to the principle of operation, it is divided into:

• supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Another variation of this method is the installation of recycling equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through filters, is partially mixed with street air, and then, already purified, is returned to the room;
• supply air with the possibility of heating. To operate the system according to this principle, a recuperator is required, which uses exhaust but already heated air;
• supply air with cooling. Air conditioning is required here;
• supply and exhaust. The most common system for private homes. The circulation of air masses is ensured by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. This air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.

However, the operation of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up the house construction plan. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the supply of fresh air to the premises and the removal of already used air to the street.

The compulsory system includes the following elements and equipment:

• grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
• filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
• air valves that regulate the flow of air supplied to the house. In winter, protect the system from icy gusts of wind;
• fans used to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
• sound absorbers ensuring silent operation of the system;
• heaters that heat the incoming air;
• ventilation ducts that allow air to move.

How to properly install a hood in a kitchen in a private home

Manufacturers of hoods provide consumers with three main modifications of devices:

• hanging;
• built-in;
• dome or fireplace.

Also, according to the method of air purification, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models that operate in recirculation mode.

But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the air duct must coincide with the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the kitchen hood will work in increased mode, which will lead to rapid engine failure.

The installed air duct should not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. To do this, a special grille is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the device has finished operating. This mode of operation allows the natural air circulation system to operate fully.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

The task of installed ventilation in the bathroom is to clean the room from various odors and eliminate high humidity.

Since the operation of a natural hood is completely dependent on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the natural air circulation system has its advantages, which include simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in a natural hood predicts long and uninterrupted operation.

Forced exhaust fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Device manufacturers also offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system begins to operate when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room.

Depending on the material used, decorative designs are:

• plastic;
• wooden;
• steel;
• made of MDF, chipboard or plasterboard.

However, when installing the box, it is taken into account that it will constantly be exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that arise during cooking. It follows that the structure must be washed and cleaned well. Only in this case will the decorative box fit into the overall design of the room.

Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through a wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands

Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And to do this, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will operate.