A carpenter's miter box in the master's arsenal. Making your own miter box To properly cut corners without a miter box, you need

When cutting, everything must be precise, so as not to cut off excess and not to redo the work. But not everyone can make a perfect cut by eye, fortunately in the 21st century this is not necessary. Craftsmen have long been using a miter box for skirting boards, which helps to cut materials at the desired, and most importantly, even angle.

The device makes the work easier and You don’t need a special set of skills to use it. There are several types of tools with different sets of features.

Kinds

In construction markets and in specialized stores you can find different types of miter boxes. They can differ in a number of ways, each of which affects the functionality and final cost. The simplicity of the design allows it to be produced from different materials, expensive and cheap. Mainly used for production:

wood;

iron;

plastic;

polyurethane.

A miter box for skirting boards can be made entirely of one material or combine several. Here you need to take into account the type of construction. Because here there is a variation:

simple miter box;

swivel mechanism;

electrical appliance.

Each of them has advantages and disadvantages. The simple design is similar to a trough with through slots for cutting at an angle 45 and 90 degrees. The second type is more functional, allows you to fix the position of the cut at different angles, and also includes a saw mechanism with a replaceable blade. The electric wort is similar to the previous analogue, it can also have a turning point, but together with the hand saw it is equipped with an electric one.

Wooden

It is difficult to purchase this type of miter box today, even though it was the first prototype of all other analogues. Wooden models are good because, in comparison with metal ones, when a saw hits the body of the device, the teeth are not damaged, but the body itself is damaged.

Therefore, you need to be especially vigilant and careful when handling, or use a special saw for skirting boards. Due to impracticality, companies currently do not produce this type. But it is noticeably cheaper than others, especially if you do it yourself.

Plastic

Wooden ones were quickly replaced by plastic options, made of plastic and special polymers. If the previous type had the main disadvantage of rapid wear, then here this problem is even more acute.

The design is developed very quickly and becomes unusable. Therefore, you need to monitor the tools in order to notice the moment of breakdown and not use an unusable tool. And among the advantages we can highlight:

low cost;

wide model and size range;

low weight of the product.

Metal

Not every craftsman uses this type because of the prices, but metal products last much longer than their analogues. Because the equipment is difficult to damage during operation. Even in the steel body of the miter box, you can saw structures made not only of wood or plastic, but also of iron.

Principle of use

In essence, the miter box for skirting boards is quite simple to use, however, the fact that work is carried out with dangerous, sharp objects, obliges the user to read the instructions.

If this is a simple design, then the handling rules will be noticeably shorter than the technical documentation supplied with electric models. The structure itself must be placed on a flat, stable surface to prevent mistakes during cutting. You also need to prepare the following things:

hacksaw, saw blade, disk (depending on the type of structure);

correction knife for working with soft materials;

measuring instrument (tape measure, ruler, measuring angle), pencil for notes;

a grinding machine or “sandpaper” to clean the cuts from unevenness.

In order for the work to proceed without problems and defects in the end, you need to take care of the saw, namely, its according to the material object being sawed. Often many problems arise due to incorrect selection of the tooth pitch on the tool. You can also take care of clamps that can provide reliable stability during the work process.

The principle of operation itself is quite simple. Take a plinth or other object, measure it, mark the location of the cut, then place it in the opening and secure it (if possible). The saw is placed in the required hole and sawed to the required location. Position the object so that the saw is on the side of the working hand, this will make cutting most comfortable

Cutting rules

The main rule is to correctly determine the side of cut. A common mistake is incorrect fastening, as a result of which the wrong side is cut or at the wrong angle. To avoid such incidents, stock up on a measuring device and a pencil with which you will mark the desired side or angle.

Fix the material, rest it against the wall with its end so that the fixation is maximum and there are no errors. In the case when not a simple design is used, but professional equipment, then you can adjust the angle without being limited to 45, 90 degrees. You can begin work only after you are sure that the material is fixed correctly and securely.

And the cutting rules are as follows:

Measuring, marking;
Fix the material, the marks should coincide with the cut in the tool, it is best to place it so that the saw is on the side of the working hand;
Clamp the end additionally, if necessary, take a saw and cut;
Do this with other parts;
Sand any uneven surfaces with a grinder or sandpaper.

The rules may change when using electrical, mechanical devices and other modification devices (clamps, clamps, extensions, attachments, etc.).

DIY miter box

Professional miter boxes cost a lot of money, and given the rare use in everyday life, this is a dubious waste of money. In this case, the choice should fall on simple troughs, which cost less and are easier to use. But basic models are not always suitable for work in terms of size and cut angle.

In this case you can make a miter box yourself taking into account their tasks. Making such a tool is very simple and quick, the main thing is to properly prepare for assembly. The following components are needed:

saw for wood, metal, it is better if it is a hacksaw with replaceable blades;

clamps, vices, clamps;

sanding, correction paper, needle file, grinder with a narrow tape;

set of confirmants, hexagons;

drill or screwdriver with a set of drills;

measuring instruments: rulers, protractors, corner;

pencil, marker.

All items must be placed on a table prepared for assembly. First you need to assemble the box, namely the bottom and walls. Here you need to think in advance about the parameters of the plinth or other object, because this determines the height of the sides and the width of the bottom.

Craftsmen with extensive experience can make not just a box, but a miter box with sliding thresholds and replaceable sides. This model is very difficult to make, but the end result is a very effective and durable model. But here again we are talking about the frequency of use, if you need a miter box for a couple of times, then there is no point in bothering, but if it is for frequent use, then it is easier to buy a professional analogue.

The side height is usually equal to 30 or 50 millimeters, depends on the width of the product. The length can be adjusted as convenient, but more often it is 10 – 30 centimeters. This parameter affects stability, the number of possible cutting angles (not only 45, 90 degrees ). The width of the bottom is usually no more 15 – 20 centimeters. Having selected the necessary boards, you need to follow clear sequence of actions:

The bottom and sides need to be sanded, especially the corners with the ends. Make sure the parts fit together.
Measure the location of the sides and the places of cuts using a ruler, protractor or corner.
Secure the sides to the bottom, taking into account that in the places where the cuts are made the sides will be very vulnerable. The sides are attached not to the bottom, but to the sides. For fastening, it is best to use a hexagon with confirmants; this is the most effective fastening for this. To make it more convenient, with less damage to parts, use a drill.
Make cuts according to the marks so that there are even cuts in 90, 45 degrees, There should be two second holes.
The width of the openings should be slightly larger than the saw you will be using. And the depth should be to the very foundation, but do not overdo it so that the structure does not lose its reliability.

You can make a collapsible model, but for this use screws or self-tapping screws. You can also make such a structure from metal, but for this it is better to use a ready-made welded iron box and the appropriate tools for working with metal. This design will last much longer, but will be more difficult and expensive to create.

Video on how to make a miter box with your own hands

Conclusion

The miter box is a really useful device for working with corners, both baseboards and any other interior elements. With the help of such an assistant You can make precise cuts quickly and efficiently, which you can’t do by eye.

And most importantly, there is a large selection of models, different in price, size, principle of operation and materials of manufacture. This means that anyone can choose the tool that will be most effective in individual conditions. And the simplicity of design and use makes it possible for beginners without experience in construction and repair to use the miter box.

Anyone who is involved in home repairs or crafts inevitably faces the need to join various types of profile material at a certain angle. An attempt to cut the material “by eye” or “on the knee” leads to a disastrous result: the seam turns out to be sloppy and uneven. While there is a simple tool called a miter box, which allows you to solve such issues quickly and easily. The best part is that you can make it yourself, and in the required shape and size.

A simple device helps to make precise cuts of baguette

What is a miter box and why is it needed?

A miter box is a device with which you can maintain the required cutting angle. In the simplest version, the miter box has the shape of a tray with slots made on its side surfaces, which are located at the desired angle to the bottom. The material to be processed is placed in the tray and cut with a hacksaw inserted into the slots. Thus, the required angle of dividing the workpiece into parts is maintained.

The improved design of this tool includes a fixed base and a rotating hacksaw guide on it, which can be fixed in any angular position from zero to three hundred and sixty degrees. This miter box for professional use allows you to maintain the required cutting angles with an accuracy of one degree.

The miter box may have guide rollers or clamps

The most expensive and complex tool has a saw driven by an electric motor and a rotating miter box. Angle marking, performed using a laser machine, allows you to perform the most complex work with extreme precision and speed.

The miter box is most widely used to perform various types of work by carpenters. With its help, you can accurately and quickly install skirting boards on the floor and ceiling, and lay cable ducts. Plastic, plastic and wooden materials can be processed. A handmade miter box has good performance characteristics.

A professional saw with a miter box allows you to make cuts at any angle

Using this device is not difficult at all. The material to be processed is placed in the guide chute and sawed with a hacksaw through the slots provided for this purpose. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the external or internal location of the cutting angle, and when installing skirting boards - the right or left side of the layout.

There are advantages to a homemade miter box

You can easily buy this device on the market, but a homemade, self-made miter box has a number of advantages. These include:

The device can be made universal for performing various practical tasks. Any cutting angle can be set. The dimensions of the tool are selected based on the dimensions of the profile being processed.
The material for making the tool can be selected taking into account the planned volume of work. Plywood, beech or oak will ensure a long service life of the product.
You won't have to spend a lot of time on work. You can actually make a simple tool with your own hands quite quickly.
Minimum amount of consumables. You can use cutting boards, in which case the financial costs will be zero.

You can make a miter box of the required size with your own hands

The main requirement when making a tool yourself is to accurately set the cutting angles. This stage of work must be performed with special care. One example of a homemade device is shown in the photo. Making a miter box like this is not difficult.

It all starts with choosing a saw

The process of making a miter box begins with choosing a high-quality hacksaw that will be used to work in this device. That is, this tool is made to fit an existing saw, rather than a hacksaw being matched to a miter box. This is important for the quality functioning of the system. The required saw parameters are:

canvas of small thickness;
medium-sized teeth;
hard blade.

A special hacksaw for a miter box has a special design and fine teeth

The thin blade ensures a high-quality cut line, small teeth prevent the occurrence of defects in the cutting area, and a rigid blade allows you to make a cut without chips or damage.

To work with synthetic plastic materials and thin baseboards, it is better to use a hacksaw for metal, which has a perfectly thin and even blade. To give the necessary rigidity it must be well tensioned.

Prepare tools, materials and get to work

When making a device yourself, wood is most often used. Polymer materials are used in industrial production. Wood must be selected only from hard varieties. For comparison: an oak board one centimeter thick corresponds in strength to a two-centimeter product made from coniferous wood.

The height of the wall, corresponding to the width of the lumber used, is selected depending on the operational purpose of the device being manufactured.

To process skirting boards, a thirty-millimeter board width is sufficient. When working with larger products, the minimum wall height is up to one hundred millimeters. The length of the tool should not be more than half a meter, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work with it.

The bottom part of the tray is made of ten-centimeter wide chipboard, a thick sheet of plywood or other similar material. The surface of wooden products must be carefully sanded and have no visible defects.

Before getting started, you need to prepare the following tools:

measuring ruler, carpenter's pencil and caliper;
marking core;
fine-grained emery;
hacksaw for metal;
clamping clamp or vice with soft jaws;
drill with a set of drills;
fastening material in the form of self-tapping screws.

Let's make the side walls of the tool first

To make the side walls, you need two identical boards with a length of twenty-five and a height of more than five centimeters. They are cut from lumber of suitable size. After this, markings are applied to the sidewalls.

In order for the miter box to be fixed to the edge of the table, one wall is made higher

A transverse line is drawn from the center, measuring the value of half the width of the base, we outline two more lines. After this, the thickness of the bottom part is deposited on the lower edge of the side boards. A longitudinal line in the middle will indicate the attachment points of a row of screws.

We mark the guide cuts

Before marking the guide slots, the sidewalls are placed next to each other and carefully inspected. They must be absolutely the same.

Standard miter box markings

After this, the side walls are securely fixed in a vice or clamp. Angular values of forty-five and ninety degrees are laid off from the center, and lines are drawn along them along which the guide cuts will be cut.

We assemble a miter box with our own hands

Having cut out and marked the structural elements of the device, we begin to assemble it. To do this you need:

Rules for using the tool

Although using a miter box does not present any difficulties, certain rules must be followed when working with this tool. Basically, they relate to manipulations with skirting boards.

An example of an internal corner joining a plinth

When installing them, you need to understand that they have left and right sides of mating surfaces, and place them in the fixture tray accordingly. In addition, you need to take into account the internal or external location of the connection corner.

An example of an external corner joining a plinth

Skirting boards mounted on the ceiling are opposite the floor skirting boards, so they must be processed in the opposite direction. The slats must be placed in the tool tray exactly as they are located at the top. These rules must also be followed when working with a tool with a rotating part, regardless of the set cutting angle.

By using a miter box, you can significantly speed up the creative process. See how a professional carpenter made the necessary tool.

A miter box is a carpentry tool for cutting molded material at an angle. The most common angles at which cutting is carried out are: 90°, 45° and 60° in the vertical plane and 45° to the horizontal. These indicators apply to most standard commercially produced miter boxes.

Another thing is that the range of such a useful item is not limited to such a device. More precisely: there are no restrictions on the design options for miter boxes.

Types and types of miter boxes

Quite often, to repeatedly perform the operation of complex cutting of molded material at a non-standard angle, a special miter box is made with a single cutting guide.

There are also miter boxes designed to produce a specific type of compound, such as dovetail.

Often, to perform one type of work, the seat of the mating parts is simply modeled and strictly calibrated cuts are made for cutting. This also becomes a miter box.

Similar tools also include miter boxes for cutting soap and similar materials, sometimes with rather intricate shapes, sometimes with figured cuts, with marked dimensions, etc.

Our industry produces a number of not very expensive and simple miter boxes with adjustable and, accordingly, customizable cutting angles. Their use is justified when it is necessary to cut moldings with special edge angles.

Such miter boxes almost always have either serious guides for a hacksaw, or are equipped with magnets that hold the blade of the cutting tool at the desired angle.

Special hacksaws are mainly designed for working with certain types of miter boxes. This doesn't mean you can't use a universal cutting tool. General purpose miter boxes provide for joint work with most hand saws, both for wood and metal, and bow saws with not very large teeth. But the cutting accuracy will not be perfect. For this purpose, it is better to select a fine-toothed saw designed for making tenon joints.

Sometimes a miter box is sold together with a saw, the width of the blade of which, taking into account the spread of the teeth, this miter box is made for.

As a rule, this is a back saw, in which a steel back is riveted along the top of the hacksaw blade, which does not allow it to bend much during sawing, which ensures greater accuracy of the saw.

Sometimes, especially if the saw comes with a miter box, the backing is also a limiter on the cutting depth. At the same time, the teeth of the saw do not reach the bottom of the groove in the miter box, which protects them from faster dulling, and the miter box itself from a premature death in the hands of a not very attentive carpenter.

In everyday life, home craftsmen most often use inexpensive universal plastic miter boxes with fairly wide slots for ordinary large-toothed hacksaws. Moreover, they are fitted with both wooden baseboards and polystyrene foam ceiling moldings. The angles of the latter, however, can only fit exactly by chance.

How to make a miter box with your own hands

It would seem - what’s easier - knock down a wooden groove of the required width and height, apply markings, saw through the guides, maintaining the accuracy of the cut, and that’s it - the miter box is ready. Insert skirting boards or moldings, carefully making sure that you cut exactly the corner that is needed, and admire the results of your work. But even a very neat person with well-developed spatial thinking is not immune from mistakes.

It's another matter when the miter box is a real imitation of an angle. We will consider the option of making a miter box with your own hands using the example of a device for making right angles (both internal and external), but you can guess that such a device can be made for angles other than right ones.

Another important advantage of this miter box is that you make the width of the slot for the tool to match the thickness of the specific cutting tool, the one with which you will make the cut. In this case, its accuracy will be maximum.

STEP 1: Take a sheet of plexiglass, plywood, MDF or even thick cardboard that is suitable in size (4 - 6 widths of the material that will be cut in the miter box) and cut out a square base. The option with plexiglass was chosen for greater clarity. If you cut exclusively foam baguettes, then you don’t have to hesitate at all in choosing the material for the miter box and subsequently repair it as it wears out ad infinitum. Draw diagonals - find the center.

STEP 2: Having selected the height of the vertical walls of the miter box, and ideally it should be:

a) the height of the processed profile located at the required angle +

b) height of the cutting tool blade +

c) 5 – 10 mm technological gap,

glue them to the base at an angle of 90°, inserting the intended cutting tool between them, in our case, a hacksaw blade for metal. Also, in our case, hot melt glue and a gun for it are used for gluing parts.

STEP 3: Place a piece of the real profile that you will cut in this miter box into the resulting corner, and mark where you will need to glue the inner corner.

And do this with special care, not forgetting to also place the cutting tool in the inner guide angle. The profile should fit into the formed groove tightly, but without much effort.

STEP 4: Secure the upper ribs of both guides in any way that does not interfere with the main operation. We connected them with scraps of the same plexiglass.

I think it’s not difficult to understand that when joining the baguettes under the outer wall of the guides, you will get an internal angle, and when joining under the internal one, you will get an external one.

The accuracy of adjusting the corners in such a miter box will be the highest, and errors will be practically eliminated.

Miter boxes for professional work

Of course, if your work related to the precise cutting of molded material goes beyond the concept of “home”, you will have to be more careful in choosing a miter box. Often this function can be performed by adaptations for tools that you know and use regularly. They are called that: miter box for an angle grinder, miter box for a Bosch jigsaw, etc. At the same time, as a rule, they are made by manufacturers of one or another power tool with mounts for the main device.

Some types of miter saws have a name: electric miter box. In addition to the ability to cut at any angle from - 35° to + 35° horizontally, they can change the cutting angle in the vertical plane, have fastenings for roller conveyors, allowing more accurately, and most importantly easily, to process fairly large wooden, plastic, and sometimes aluminum moldings at any possible angle.

Precision rotary and inclined professional miter box 550 - 600 mm.

Working with such a tool is a pleasure, but quite expensive. Therefore, if performing such work is not your main income, we advise you to turn your attention to a manual miter box, almost an analogue of an electric miter box - a precision rotary-tilt professional miter box from 550 to 600 mm.

The work on it can be done almost the same as on its electric counterpart. At the same time, the accuracy and cutting characteristics are not inferior to it. Let's take a closer look at this tool.

Quite a few manufacturers of hand tools have in their assortment precision rotary-tilt miter boxes with almost similar characteristics, so when choosing, focus on the authority of a particular company or brand, rather than on technical characteristics.

There are not so many fundamental differences between similar tools of different brands, and first of all they relate to the materials from which the main parts of the device are made. First of all, pay attention to the frame on which both the saw itself is mounted in the guides on the rotary unit, and the workpiece. There are two options for its execution: cast metal and plastic. If you are going to perform most of the operations in this miter box with large, heavy parts, then give preference to an aluminum body, and if you are cutting polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam baguettes on it, give preference to a plastic one.

The next fundamental point that you should pay attention to first is the small plastic parts. It is they, if you don’t hit the miter box with a sledgehammer (of course, figuratively speaking), that will fail first. Here we advise you to pay attention not only to the quality of the plastic, but also to the difficulty of making the element yourself in the future, perhaps even from a different material. The easiest way to do this is when the miter box is not yet assembled.

The abundance of options for technical solutions in the designs of precision rotary miter boxes will allow you to choose a tool with the simplest details.

If you are a neat person and will work with this tool yourself, then pay special attention to the rotary and inclined units. Here you should make sure that the saw is accurately and, most importantly, clearly fixed at a given angle.

In general, the less play in the entire structure, the better, so when choosing a precision rotary miter box, ask to show you all those available at the same time and choose the one that your hand will feel better. But for myself personally, I chose a purely rotary option - a complex angle is not so difficult to complete in 2 cuts, and the design is much more reliable.

It remains to say a few words about hacksaw blades. Choose expensive, super alloy steel only if you are going to work with the appropriate materials. If you are trimming soft wood and even softer plastic or ceiling plinths, you shouldn’t waste your money. In this case: the best canvas is new.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

Rotary miter box - do it yourself

A rotating miter box is very useful for the home craftsman - thanks to this device, a board up to 50 mm thick can be sawed crosswise at an angle of 90 to 40° and at an angle of inclination to the plane within 90-45°.

Before starting work, we will prepare the following materials: a board made of dense wood (beech, oak or ash), plywood 8 or 10 mm thick, sheet steel 1 and 1.5 mm thick, fasteners - M4 bolts 25 mm long, M6 35 mm long mm, corresponding washers and wing nuts, rivets with a diameter of 2 mm.

Rotary miter box (device and drawings of parts):
1 - base, 2 - thrust plate, 3 - protractor, 4 - fixing bolts, 5 - rotating plate, 6 - angle, 7 - hinge, 8 - bar, 9 - fixing plate, 10 - racks, 11 - bolt, 12 - washer, 13 - wing nut.

Cut the base 1 for the rotating miter box from a board of seasoned dense wood without chips and knots according to the dimensions indicated in the figure. A through hole with a diameter of 90 mm helps to hold the miter box on the sawing area. It can be cut out with a jigsaw and then carefully processed with a semicircular file. All surfaces of the finished base must be sanded and coated with two or three layers of furniture varnish.

The miter box has two more wooden parts - these are identical 10 posts that serve as guides for the hacksaw. They will have to be made from plywood 8 or 10 mm thick. Draw the outlines of the posts on a sheet of plywood. They can be cut along the outer contour with a hacksaw, and the windows can be cut out with a jigsaw. In the places indicated in the figure, drill holes with a diameter of 4.2 and 6.2 mm. Tighten the guides with three bolts and sand them together in a vice, first with a rasp and then with sandpaper. Cover the finished parts with two or three layers of furniture varnish.

Next, start making metal parts. The thrust plate 2 is cut from a steel sheet 1.5 mm thick with a hacksaw. In the places indicated in the figure, drill three holes with a diameter of 3 mm for screws. Round the bottom corners of the plate. Remove burrs with a sharp file.

Protractor 3, bar 8, rotary 5 and fixing plate 9 are the most critical parts. The quality of the miter box depends on how they are made. Try to more accurately mark the parts on the sheet material, carefully cut out curved slots. Using the example of the most complex slot in part 5, we will tell you how this can be done.

The first method is to drill one-to-one holes with a diameter of 6 mm along the future slot. The final cut is completed with a needle file.

The second method requires more patience. The slot is cut in one pass with a jigsaw into which a metal file is clamped. True, even here the slot will not work right away; you will have to finish it with a needle file.

Two parts remain - loop 7 and corner 6.

The assembly of the corner 6 and hinge 7 with the rotating 5 and fixing 9 plates is carried out with steel rivets with a diameter of 2 mm. To prevent the two M6 bolts passed through the holes in the base 1 and the two M4 bolts that tighten the rack 10 with the fixing plate 9 from turning, they should be seated in the holes with epoxy glue.

And one last thing. To adjust the gap between the posts 10, which depends on the width of the teeth of the saw, do not forget to install washers 12 of such thickness that the saw moves in the guides without noticeable friction.

The final finishing of the room includes the installation of ceiling and floor skirting boards and door casings. Cutting them at the required angle is not difficult when you have a special carpentry tool at hand - miter box. If you cut by eye, the appearance may not be ideal and will require rework. In addition, cutting accuracy is important if high precision of joined parts is required.

What is a miter box and its types

Miter box is a tool used in carpentry for cutting materials at an angle from 1 to 179 degrees (the most commonly used cutting angles are 90 and 45 degrees).

Miter box make from fiberboard, hardwood boards, plastic. Professional rotary miter boxes are made using metal parts and magnets. The angle on these miter boxes is set independently, and the lumber is fixed with special clamps, which allows you to make the cut as accurately as possible. Wooden and metal miter boxes are considered the most durable and durable. Unlike plastic ones, when cutting, the grooves do not change their width, which allows you to use the tool for a long time without compromising the appearance of the parts being cut.

Before using The miter box must be secured; to do this, it is screwed to the carpentry table with special metal clamps or screws. After this, mark the required length on the workpiece with a pencil, place it in a special tray of the miter box, pressing it against one of its sides. At the same time, we carefully ensure that during the cutting process the marks of the miter box and the workpiece do not move relative to each other. For convenience, you can use a short board as a clamp.

How to make a miter box yourself

To make a simple miter box we will need the following materials:

— hardwood boards (ash, oak, coniferous) with a thickness of 10 to 25 mm, depending on the type of wood, or plywood sheets of similar thickness;

- self-tapping screws;

- wood glue;

- sandpaper;

- a simple pencil;

- a protractor or ruler with an angle of 90 degrees;

- hacksaw.

Miter box consists of of three parts fastened together with glue and screws.

— Before work, carefully sand the wooden boards, achieving ideal smoothness and 90-degree angles. The width of the boards should be from 100 to 150 mm (if the boards are smaller in height, the saw may jump out of the groove, and if it is larger, it will be inconvenient to cut);

— We fasten the boards together, for this we use glue and screws;

— Remove any remaining glue and leave the workpiece until the glue has completely dried;

- We make pencil markings, for this, using a protractor, we draw two perpendicular lines at the end of the sides, which form a square, the diagonals of the square and another line, slightly to the side of the drawn ones;

— Carefully check all angles and dimensions, you should get two lines with an angle of 45 degrees and one line with an angle of 90 degrees;

- Using a very sharp hacksaw, we begin to make cuts according to the drawn lines (each side must be sawed separately, without pressure);

— We widen the slots using sandpaper folded in half.

A carefully made miter box will serve for a long time, helping in sawing baguettes, baseboards, wooden slats, casings at the required angle with maximum accuracy.