What type of underfloor heating is best to install in the kitchen. Heated floors for the kitchen How to install heated floors in the kitchen

Choosing flooring for the kitchen is associated with great difficulties, since it is necessary to take into account not only the features of the interior, but also the intensity of use of this room in the house. If you decide to lay durable but cold floor tiles, you will also have to install a warm floor in the kitchen. Without additional heating of the floor covering it is impossible to ensure comfort in the room. In the kitchen-dining room, it is customary to install floors from combined materials. In this case, tiles are laid in the working area, and laminate, linoleum, cork or something else is laid in the dining area. In this case, the heated floor system can not be installed throughout the kitchen, but only in those places where it is necessary.

Video story about installing heated floors in the kitchen

Where to start installing heated floors

Regardless of which floor heating system you choose for installation in the kitchen, work begins with leveling the base base. If the base is made of concrete screed, then when a small difference in height is detected, its surface is filled with self-leveling floors. Differences of more than 5 mm must be leveled using a cement-sand screed, which dries within a month after application. Self-leveling floors only need two to three days to dry. If deadlines are pressing, then it is better to use these mixtures, which are mixed immediately before application from ready-made components. The prepared portion of the solution is poured onto the floor surface and distributed over it with special needle rollers. After hardening, a perfectly flat base is obtained.

Important! Wood subfloors can be made level by using sheets of plywood laid on a sheathing of lumber laid level.

What types of heated floors should you prefer?

The choice of type of underfloor heating system depends on whether you live in an apartment or a country house. The fact is that it is prohibited to install water heated floors in apartment buildings without obtaining permission. As a rule, such permission is not given, explaining the refusal by saying that the residents of other apartments will freeze. After all, the coolant, passing through the pipes of a water-heated floor, gives off its heat and then goes on in a cooled form. Therefore, in apartments it is necessary to install electrical underfloor heating systems, which can be made in the form of infrared films, heating mats or cables.

Important! In a country house that is heated independently, it is more profitable to use water-heated floors, integrating them into the overall heating system of the entire cottage.

Installation of an electrically heated system

Electric heating of the floor covering is carried out using a special cable, which is filled with a concrete screed. However, you can do without dirty work if you purchase a special substrate into which the heating element is built. Tiles or laminate are laid on top of the mats fixed to the surface of the kitchen floor. When purchasing floor coverings, make sure that they have a special symbol indicating that this material can be laid over heated floors. Otherwise, the surface of the coating will warp under the influence of heat. The temperature of the heated floor is regulated using temperature sensors connected to thermostats. There are electronic devices in which, in addition to the temperature, the time for turning the heating system on and off is set.

Important! The downside to using electrically heated floors is the monthly cost of electricity. But in the spring-autumn period, when the central heating is turned off, you can heat the apartment using floor heating.

Heating mats are made in the form of grids on which cable turns are fixed at a certain distance from each other

The procedure for installing a warm electric floor:

First, a project is drawn up, in which a diagram of laying the electrical cable around the perimeter of the kitchen is drawn. The installation locations of the thermostat and sensors are also marked. Then the cable length is calculated.
Next, a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing is laid on the leveled surface of the base base. Thermal insulation material prevents heat from escaping in the opposite direction.
The cable is mounted in separate strips, fixing them to the metal mesh at certain intervals. Mounting tape or plastic brackets are used as fastening elements.
A certain distance is maintained between the heating cable lines. Do not allow heating elements to cross or come into contact.

Important! It is better to involve professional specialists, including electricians, in performing installation work. There are too many nuances that only competent craftsmen know.

Film infrared heating systems

This type of electric heated floor is easy to install with your own hands. Manufacturers include detailed installation instructions with their products. Strips of film are cut according to measurements and spread on a foil backing that reflects heat. The panels are fastened together with tape to prevent them from moving during installation of the floor covering.

Next, all open areas are insulated, the strips are connected with wiring and connected to a thermostat installed on the wall of the room. After test switching on the system and checking its functioning, proceed to the installation of the selected floor covering.

Materials for laying heated water floors

Heating of the floor covering with a warm water floor system is carried out using pipelines laid in loops, the length of which does not exceed 100 meters. There are several schemes for laying loops made of polymer pipes: snake, spiral, double spiral, etc. All pipes are connected to a manifold located in a special cabinet built into the wall.

Water floors can be laid in a concrete screed or special mats with “pimples” can be used, between which it is good to secure the pipeline loops. The warm water floor in the kitchen is hidden in a concrete screed. When laying pipes on mats, the pipe system is covered with gypsum fiber sheets, on which the finished kitchen floor is installed.

Heated floors in the kitchen (either electric or water) are difficult to install with your own hands without experience in performing general construction and electrical installation work. Therefore, if you do not feel completely confident in your abilities and knowledge in this matter, then it is better to entrust the work of laying heated floors in the kitchen to companies that provide professional apartment renovation services.

Not so long ago, underfloor heating systems were a rarity in apartments and houses, but now this will not surprise anyone. They can be used as additional heating to conventional radiator batteries or as independent heating equipment. Recently, there has been a strong tendency to replace radiator heating sources with more economical modern heating systems.

Types of heated floors

A warm floor is a flat heated surface that can be used in residential, industrial, office, and service premises and even outdoors. In stores selling construction and finishing materials, you can find several varieties of such systems.

Warm floors heat the air in the room more evenly than traditional radiators located under windows. Heat rises from bottom to top, with the floor being the warmest element.

Warm floors heat the air in the room more evenly

Water floor

In water heated floor systems, the coolant is hot water, which can circulate inside the installation using pumps, and can also be supplied from central heating. The pipes through which the working fluid moves are laid over the entire surface of the floor in one or more contours on a layer of thermal insulation substrate, and covered on top with a wet or dry screed. The design of this thermostatic system is a kind of layer cake, with a thickness of 50 to 200 mm. The pipeline can be made of copper, metal-plastic, polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene.

In water heated floors, the coolant is liquid

The advantages of heated floors with liquid coolant include the following qualities:

Economical. Tangible savings in heat spent on heating (up to 50% for rooms with ceilings of more than 3 m).
Environmental friendliness and safety. There is no electromagnetic field that has a negative impact on the inhabitants of the home.
Very low energy costs (pump only).
Due to the low temperature of the energy carrier (+25…+45 °C), it is possible to use any type of decorative floor coverings.
The absence of bulky and unattractive radiators, pipes and open wiring, which allows for simplified interior decoration.

The negative qualities of water heating systems for floors are:

Complexity, duration and high cost of installation work. Technology must be followed very strictly.
Installation is prohibited in apartments, since the liquid reaches other residents almost cold, which upsets the overall balance.
Restrictions on installation in houses with weak floors. A thick layer of screed greatly weighs down the structure and eats up the height of the ceilings.
Inertia. The system takes quite a long time to heat up.
The need to dismantle the screed to ensure free access to the pipeline in the event of a breakdown.

For the first time I saw heated floors from my friends. They made a water heating system, powering it from a heating gas boiler. But it turned out that it was impossible to walk barefoot on the tiled surface that was placed on top, as it was very hot. The temperature was difficult to regulate in this case and all household members had to constantly walk around in slippers, which was not entirely comfortable. After a couple of years, everything had to be dismantled and rebuilt again, as it was extremely uncomfortable.

Electric floor

There are several types of electrical underfloor heating systems.

Cable

A single-core or two-core cable, made of a high-resistance alloy (nichrome, etc.) that effectively converts electrical energy into heat, is mounted in a cement screed up to 50 mm thick. To connect this electric floor, a 220 V network is sufficient, but the house wiring must withstand its power (80–150 W/m2).

The cable underfloor heating system is the very first

Advantages that distinguish a floor heating system using a cable:

long service life (more than 50 years);
possibility of temperature adjustment;
uniformity and speed of heating;
democratic and affordable price.

Weaknesses inherent in cable heated floors:

the presence of electromagnetic radiation (especially in cheap models);
a ban on installing furniture above heated areas;
complexity of installation;
high energy consumption.

A modification of the cable system is heating mats. A thin cable is attached to the self-adhesive mesh (in a zigzag pattern with a given pitch). Thermal mats usually do not exceed 3 mm in thickness; they are simply rolled out over the floor surface (possibly without a screed).

Film (infrared)

One of the most modern and effective is considered to be an infrared electric floor, which is a thin (0.3–0.4 mm) film with heating elements laminated in it, which are a special paste based on carbon or carbon, as well as thin layers of metals (copper , aluminum). When connected to the electrical network, the emitters generate infrared radiation, which heats various objects, for example, floor coverings.

Film heated floors are considered the most efficient and economical

Positive qualities of film heated floors:

small thickness;
Possibility of installation on any surface (horizontal, vertical, inclined);
efficiency (high efficiency);
ease of installation and no need to make a screed;
high warm-up speed;
if one section of the floor is damaged and fails, all others continue to function properly;
noiselessness.

Negative characteristics:

high price;
impossibility of laying under tiled flooring (poor adhesion).

Infrared film can be placed under the tile if you put a fine-mesh fiberglass mesh and sheet material (chipboard, gypsum fiber board, etc.). But the heating efficiency is significantly reduced.

Rod

A relatively new and not yet very widespread system, which is essentially a type of infrared electric floor. The heating elements are flexible composite rods made from silver, carbon or graphite, and placed 0.1 m apart parallel to each other. They are connected to each other by a conductive bus and mounted in a polymer film. Rod heated floors are produced in the form of a rolled thermomat.

Rod heated floor is the latest development in this area

Advantages of the rod system:

You can place furniture and other heavy objects on such a floor;
if one rod fails, other sections work;
good heat dissipation;
the ability to fill with screed and various adhesives, which is necessary for laying tiles;
durability.

high price;
high risk of buying a fake.

Video: types of heated floors

It is extremely important to choose the right flooring for your underfloor heating system. The material must last a long time, not deteriorate or deform under the influence of heat, and also not emit poisonous and toxic substances when heated. But the main requirement for a decorative finishing floor covering will be maximum thermal conductivity, so that all the heat generated is used to heat the room.

You can select various materials for underfloor heating:

Tile and porcelain stoneware. Ceramic coating is recognized as the best for underfloor heating, especially for water-heated systems. When there is a temperature difference, the coefficient of expansion of the tile is small, but its stability is maximum. Low-density tile materials used in tiling work are not suitable for heated floors. It is better to choose cladding with a hardness level of at least class 5–6. You should not use tiles or porcelain tiles under an infrared film floor, however, there are models that allow you to use tiles.
Tiles are considered the most suitable material for heated floors
Laminate. The next most popular facing material is for heated floors. There is a specially designed laminate flooring with increased thermal conductivity on sale; it has a special designation on the packaging. You cannot use a regular laminate with a porous structure and without a binder and moisture-repellent impregnation that is resistant to thermal cycles of heating and cooling. Over time, the slats will inevitably crack. Laminate flooring should be placed on a water floor with care, choosing a product of at least class 32 and up to 7 mm thick. In this case, heating should not exceed +30 °C. Most often, a film heated floor is chosen under a laminated coating.
Infrared film heated floors are most often chosen for laminate flooring.
Linoleum. Not all types of linoleum are suitable for heated floors. When heated, toxic substances can be released, and the surface of the coating can be deformed due to the difference in thermal expansion of the layers. However, you can find thin material suitable for this purpose and labeled accordingly.
Not all types of linoleum are suitable for heated floors

Warm floors are rarely installed under a cork.

A very good option, since the thermal conductivity of self-leveling floors is comparable to tiles

Warm floors are ideal for decorative self-leveling flooring

Parquet, board. The least suitable facing material for heated floors, as it has low thermal conductivity and a high coefficient of moisture and temperature expansion. It is allowed to use hard and resistant species (oak, teak, ash, acacia, etc.). Natural wood must be well dried (humidity no higher than 8%), it should not be heated above +27 °C. The board should have a thickness of 15–16 mm, otherwise it simply will not heat up. Only infrared film is used.

Video: choosing a covering for a heated floor

Installation of heated floors under tiles

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to draw up a project and draw a plan, which takes into account the placement of furniture and plumbing fixtures, as well as select the location of the thermostat.

The further sequence of actions is as follows:

Preparing the base. The old floor covering is dismantled. If necessary, if there are unevennesses, make a rough screed (3–7 cm). Mount a temperature sensor in the floor and a thermostat on the wall (height 0.9–1 m).
The base under the heated floor must be carefully leveled
Thermal insulation. The entire concrete surface including the walls (5–10 cm) is covered with extruded polystyrene foam or polyethylene foam with a foil coating. To compensate for thermal expansion, damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the walls.
A thermal insulation layer is laid on the prepared base
Laying heated floors. First, check the resistance and power for compliance with the passport data using a multimeter. The heating cable is laid in a snake pattern, maintaining the same distance between turns (10 cm) and 15–20 cm away from the walls. For fixation, use a special mounting tape with fasteners. Heating mats are simply spread over the surface of the base, the strips are fastened together with tape. The system is then connected to the thermostat and tested again.
The heating cable is laid in a snake
Laying tiles. First, a screed 3–5 cm thick is poured. After 2–3 days, when the solution has completely hardened, the tiles are laid on a special adhesive composition intended for heated floors and marked with the temperature range. On thermomats, the tile covering is laid immediately on tile adhesive without screed.
There is no need to make a screed under the tiles; it is immediately laid on tile adhesive

You can turn on the electric floor only after 30–35 days, otherwise cracks may form on the coating under the influence of high temperatures.

Video: installing heated floors

The choice of underfloor heating systems, as well as decorative flooring for them, should be approached with all responsibility. It is equally important to install heating equipment correctly, strictly following the work technology.

At this time, heated floors in residential buildings are perhaps the most effective and cheapest source of heating, although legal installation opportunities are not always provided. In this article we will talk about what sources heating can be produced and how to make some of them.

In addition, for additional information, a video clip has been posted on this page.

Warm floor

All types of such devices can be divided into two types - water and electric, although there are several of the latter. Their effectiveness lies in the peculiarities of warm air rising from bottom to top, thus, all flows emanating from the heater are used in the room with maximum benefit.

For example, if for normal heating of a room with a radiator the supply temperature is 60⁰ C, then a water floor of 35⁰-40⁰ C will be sufficient.

Installation location

To install any heated floor, even for a film infrared heater (IPO), you need a flat base for installation. A cement-sand screed is best used for this purpose, but sometimes screenings are used instead of sand, which in no way harms the plane, but even makes it stronger.

If the solution will be poured in the private sector (on the ground floor), then a cushion of crushed stone, gravel or expanded clay should be added to the ground. After this, beacons are installed on the plane, the distance between which should be 10-15 cm less than the length of the rule that you will use.

The screed will dry completely after 21 days, and only then will it be possible to lay pipes, electrical equipment or cables, because you will need a solid base.

Electric floor heating

Any electrically heated floor requires a temperature sensor, so first of all, make a groove in the wall with your own hands to install it and install the thermostat in a convenient place.

You also need to inspect the wiring in the house to ensure it can withstand the power of the electrical structure (table below). To secure the cable, a mounting metal strip with bracket grooves is screwed to the base of the floor at 25 mm intervals, and the strips themselves must be fastened approximately 50 cm apart.

Advice. Be sure to install the temperature sensor in a corrugated pipe so that if it fails, you can pull it out and replace it with another one.
The end of the pipe must be plugged to prevent solution from getting into it.

Install the sensor between the cables and secure it with the same mounting tape as the cable itself. The assembled structure should only be filled with cement-sand mortar, because sharp stones from screenings can damage the insulation. Such a defect threatens the formation of an air pocket and, as a result, an increase in temperature and burnout.
If the room is located above the basement, then extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is often used for thermal insulation, and to install the cable it is necessary to lay a metal plaster mesh with a mesh size of 20-30 mm over the insulation. The cable is simply screwed pointwise to the mesh, but you need to be careful not to damage its insulation.

On the Internet, they advise that after installing the cable, apply glue to it and immediately install ceramic tiles, so is another layer of screed needed on top of the cable? Let's try to figure this out ourselves - when heated, a thin layer of adhesive mass will crack and this will lead to its disintegration, but then what should the thickness be?
Firstly, the minimum thickness of the screed above the heating cable or water pipe should be at least 30-40 mm, that is, from the base its total height will be from 70 to 100 mm - this is the best option. Secondly, heat from the source (pipe or cable) rises upward in the form of an isosceles triangle, with each side having a slope of 45⁰ relative to the horizon. It follows from this that the pitch of a pipe or cable with a screed thickness of 70-100 mm should be 200-250 mm, then the surface will warm up evenly, without differences.
The heating system can only be operationally started after the screed has completely dried, as well as the adhesive for ceramic tiles, if one has been installed. After the first start, it should usually take several days until the concrete monolith is completely stabilized, that is, until normal heat transfer from the floor occurs. The average heating temperature sufficient for the room is set from 30⁰C to 40⁰C, depending on the climatic region and the general insulation of the house.

The kitchen is perhaps the place in the apartment where we are used to spending a lot of time. Therefore, organizing floor heating in it is a matter of paramount importance. And it’s not just that cold floors are a very unpleasant thing, because constant washing causes the kitchen floor to become damp, forming mold. So it is no coincidence that a heated floor in the kitchen has become an important component of modern life, effectively solving all these problems.

As a rule, electric heating systems are more preferable in city apartments. A big advantage of such systems is the presence of a thermostat, which can be used to regulate the heat level in the kitchen. Classic cable ones involve laying a heating element in a concrete screed; more modern modifications make it possible to lay heated floors directly, laminate or other covering without pouring a screed.

Advantages of electrical systems

These systems are very effective as they provide heating to the entire floor surface.

The use of shielded cable with reliable multilayer insulation makes electric heating absolutely safe.

By adjusting the floor temperature, you can reduce electricity consumption and thereby save money.

Heated floors in the kitchen provide a comfortable microclimate in the room, since the temperature in the foot area is higher than at head level. Moreover, the humidity level in the room is constantly maintained at the required level, and the presence of dust in the air is reduced.

Installation of cable heated floors in the kitchen

Preparation for installation

The installation of a cable floor begins with calculating the area of the heated surface. To do this, prepare a kitchen plan with locations of stationary furniture and appliances, however, this does not apply to furniture with legs.

The usable area will be equal to the difference between the areas of the kitchen and the surface occupied by these items.

To calculate the length of the heating section, the specific power value is multiplied with the calculated area value. The specific power value is standardized and cannot exceed 120 watts per m2 when using a system for auxiliary heating and be more than 150 watts per m2 if this is the main heat source.

Among the preparatory work, it should also be noted the dismantling of the old floor covering and subsequent leveling of the base. If necessary, you can use .

The next step is to prepare the place for. Using a hammer drill, a niche is prepared in the wall corresponding to the dimensions of the installation box of the device, and then down the wall and floor there is a groove for cables - power, sensor, etc. A corrugated tube is placed in the channel along the surface of the base parallel to the direction of laying the heating element - a place for the sensor . The plugged end of the corrugated tube should be approximately 6 cm away from the wall. The groove is sealed with plaster.

Cabling

Reflective insulation is spread on the cleaned and leveled subfloor, foil side up, sealing the joints with tape. A mounting tape is attached to the thermal insulation, with which the heating sections will be fixed. For this purpose, it has special brackets. The tape is attached to the base using dowel nails. The cable is laid evenly, smoothly, without kinks or intersections. After which the sections are filled with a concrete screed in a layer of 3–5 cm. After the final hardening of the screed, a decorative coating is laid using standard technology.

The heating system is turned on for the first time at least 28 days later - the period necessary for the final hardening of the screed.

Heated floor under tiles

Tiles are a special material because, due to their high thermal conductivity, they are suitable for any type of heated floor. thermomats are recognized. The heating mat is a fiberglass mesh on which shielded sections of the heating element are fixed. In the manufacture of the latter, a technology is used according to which hot and cold pieces are connected without the use of couplings. This method ensures absolute reliability of the sections.

Performed in several stages:

Draw up a diagram of the location of thermomats. It must be taken into account that electric heating elements are not placed in furniture locations.
Select a place for the thermostat where a junction box is installed. Then a groove is punched in the wall and on the base, along which the connecting wires and sensor will be laid.
Prepare the floor surface: remove foreign objects, debris, if necessary, level and carefully prime using a deep penetration acrylic primer. The primer is applied using a paint roller.
The thermomats are rolled out in accordance with the developed scheme, starting from the temperature sensor, and the system is checked for functionality.

Attention

If necessary, for example, when going around corners, the fiberglass mesh is carefully cut so as not to damage the heating element. These actions require special care, as there is a risk of damage to the heating cable. When turning the mat, the net should remain down. The thermomats should not be allowed to intersect or overlap each other.

Installation of tiles on the mat is carried out using standard tiling technology. When laying tile coverings, it is recommended to use plastic spatulas - they are safer for insulating thermal cables.

There should be no voids left in the tile adhesive, since air bubbles significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of the floor.

Grouting and gluing are best done with materials that are resistant to thermal deformation.

The system is started after the glue has completely dried.

Recently, they have become increasingly in demand, the installation of which comes down to performing a few simple operations similar to installing thermomat floors. A prerequisite for using this modification is the installation of reflective thermal insulation to reduce possible heat loss.

As you know, we spend most of our time in the kitchen. This is the room where all intimate conversations and family feasts usually take place. It just so happens that we do cooking, canning and many housework in the kitchen. But a cold kitchen floor is far from an unpleasant thing. Quite often you can see a situation where floors that are wet from endless washing become damp, resulting in the formation of mold and mildew.

Currently, heated floors are a fairly common technology for insulating a room, which has been tested by time and is a mandatory attribute of a modern living space. Classic cable heating systems use a heating cable for laying in the screed. And recently it became possible to do without a screed, laying a warm floor directly under the tiles, parquet or laminate.

The big advantage of such a warm floor is the ability to regulate the level of heat in the room using a thermostat. They are quite easy to operate and inexpensive. So today you can make a heated floor in the kitchen with your own hands in record time.

Installation of heated floors in the kitchen

Before starting the installation of an electric heated floor, you need to draw a kitchen plan, then put on it all the stationary objects that will be on the floor. Furniture with legs is not taken into account. After this, you should calculate the area minus that occupied by the listed items. The result obtained will be the required heating area.

The length of the heating section should be determined as the product of the heating area and the specific power of the section, which should be no more than 120 W/sq.m., if the heated floor will be used as a source of additional heat, and not less than 150 W/sq.m. ., if it is expected that this will be the main source of heat in the kitchen.

As preparatory work, you can note the removal of all furniture and other items from the kitchen. It is also necessary to dismantle the old flooring. The screed must be checked for flatness using a straight edge. If necessary, you need to level it using a special mixture, for example, a self-leveling floor. (See also: )

Then you need to use a hammer drill and a diamond bit to prepare a niche for installing the thermostat. To do this, a channel is cut down from the niche for the power cable, as well as the cables for the temperature sensor and heating section. To ensure possible replacement of the sensor in the future, a corrugated pipe is laid in the channel parallel to the plastic pipe intended for laying cables. Subsequently, a sensor is inserted into this pipe.

The plugged end of the pipe should be released onto the subfloor at a distance of 60 mm from the wall. The groove is sealed with building plaster. Similarly, the thermostat mounting box should be attached to the building plaster in the niche.

Installing heated floors in the kitchen

Advice! The required laying step can be determined by the following formula: Step (cm) = 100 x laying area (sq.m) / heating section length (m).

The cable should be laid evenly at the required pitch without intersections. The loops should be made smoothly, without kinks. However, do not forget that the minimum distance to the wall should be 50 mm. The ends of the cable must be attached to the mounting tape using the tabs on it. After which the laid heating section needs to be filled with a cement-sand screed having a thickness of 3-5 cm.

Important! This process of insulating floors in the kitchen assumes that the first heating will be turned on no earlier than 28 days after the screed was poured.

Warm floor in the kitchen under tiles

Due to the fact that ceramic tiles have good thermal conductivity, any type of heated floor can be laid under it. It is possible to make a water or electric heated floor, and recently it has become popular to install an infrared floor, which, by the way, is suitable for any finishing coating. It is believed that the most preferable option is a thin film heated floor in the kitchen under tiles.

Among the most important aspects of installation under tiles, several main points stand out:

It is recommended to skip those places where you plan to place equipment or furniture. This will allow you to save money and avoid unnecessary energy costs.

Apply the solution to the floor only after the floor has been checked for functionality. If everything works fine, the floor heats up, there is no damage, screeding is allowed.

The process of laying heated floors cannot be rushed. The mixture must be thoroughly dry before the tiles are installed. This may take approximately two weeks. Until the floor is completely dry, you cannot turn on the heated floors, since the heating cable will simply burn out.

For grouting and gluing, it is better to use flexible mixtures that are just suitable for heated floors.

Do not turn on the floors after laying the tiles for 28 days to allow them to completely dry and harden.

Alternative types of heated floors under tiles

As a type of heated floor in the kitchen, you can also use a heating mat, the installation of which has its own characteristics.

Important! You should definitely draw up a diagram for installing heating mats, where you need to take into account the location of the furniture in the kitchen.

When you decide on the installation location of the thermostat, you need to equip a junction box, a groove in the wall and in the base of the floor intended for connecting wires and a floor temperature sensor. Laying the mat should be done in two stages. First, you need to roll out the mat according to the pattern over the entire area.

Finish laying should be started only after the mat has been cut and stretched. Do not forget that the operation of the heating mat should also not begin earlier than after 28 days.

If we talk about installing infrared film under tiles in the kitchen, then the method of work is no different from installing a heating mat. The only difference is the fact that it is necessary to lay thermal insulation material. It is on this that the heated floor film is laid.