Do-it-yourself installation of a metal staircase to the second floor. Do-it-yourself iron staircase to the second floor Making a metal staircase to the second floor

Metal is perfect for assembling a variety of staircase structures. Compared to other existing materials, it has good indicators of service life, reliability and load-bearing capacity.

From the material in question, it is possible to make both small-sized staircase structures with low weight, and solid stairs of any level of complexity and configuration. A properly assembled metal staircase can organically fit into almost any interior. This design will be appropriate both inside and outside the room.

An additional advantage is that you can assemble an ordinary metal staircase with your own hands. To do this, just study the recommendations below and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Classification of metal stairs

In terms of structural properties, internal and external metal stairs do not differ significantly from their wooden and concrete counterparts. Before starting work, you must prepare a staircase design and choose the most rational form of the product.

In accordance with the manufacturing method, metal stairs are divided into welded and forged options. Forging skills, of course, cannot be mastered quickly, but to make a simple welded staircase, a good theoretical basis and a couple of practical lessons are enough. However, first you need to choose the best option for the future design.

Types of staircase structures

Among the most popular homemade stairs are:

• stairs with stringers. In this case, the steps are fixed on a kind of metal ridges;

  
  

• stairs on rails. Frameless system. The steps are attached to the load-bearing wall. Bolts specially designed for this purpose are used for fastening;

  
  

• stairs on beams. In this case, the basis of the design is represented by bowstrings. Between them risers and treads, or only treads, are fixed;

  
  

• spiral staircases. The structure has a spiral appearance and is attached to a load-bearing central support;

  
  

• prefabricated stairs. Assembled from ready-made modules. The assembly process is extremely simple.

  

Regardless of the type of staircase, it can only be supported by the ceiling. To further increase the overall reliability of the structure, additional support elements can be placed under the landings of the staircase structure.

You can also secure the platforms with consoles, and place the racks discreetly in the wall space.

Often, a separate load-bearing partition made of brick or concrete is erected to accommodate the stairs.

At this point you will have to figure it out yourself, focusing on personal preferences and the recommendations received above.

Combination options

Metal can be combined with almost any finishing materials. It harmonizes perfectly with glass, various stones, concrete, as well as wood and brick.

A homemade metal staircase can be equipped with any type of fencing: both ordinary vertical posts and unusual screens made of perforated steel and glass, carved items, hand-forged elements, throws, etc.

Fencing elements can be fastened using bolts or welding to the end of the step, or they can also be installed directly on the steps.

In accordance with the personal preferences of the owner, operational specifics and stylistic features, the load-bearing part of the metal structure can be supplemented with steps made of corrugated metal, reinforcing steel, concrete, porcelain stoneware and many other materials.

In private houses, metal staircases with wooden steps look most organic. Outside the home, the staircase may consist entirely of metal. It is advisable to sheathe the inside of the frame with another, more pleasant and familiar material.

You can lay facing ceramics, durable laminate, carpet and other wear-resistant materials on the steps of the stairs.

Guide to assembling a homemade flight of stairs

There is nothing overly complicated about assembling a metal staircase yourself. All you need to do is follow the instructions in everything and thoroughly think through your every further action.

Preparation

Before starting work, prepare all the necessary equipment for this. First of all, you will need a welding machine. Beginners master inverter-type devices most quickly - they are the easiest to use. With appropriate experience, you can use any other machine suitable for welding the metal you are using.

Also prepare a power saw, grinder and emery wheel. If you are making wooden steps, additionally prepare clamps, an electric drill with a set of drills, self-tapping screws, and a circular saw.

Pre-prepare a project for the future staircase. You can make it yourself, order it from a specialized company, or find suitable drawings in open sources. There are quite a few such sources, so you can easily choose the staircase option that is best suited specifically for your situation.

Diagram of a simple metal staircase: 1 Channel. 2 Corrugated metal steps. 3 Steel fillies. 4 Welding locations. 5 Brackets for fastening steps.

The simplest metal staircase will be based on a channel of dimensions 8-10 placed on its edge. If you plan to finish the staircase, prepare your preferred material for this, for example, wooden boards or sheet metal.

It is best to cover the steps of an external staircase with corrugated metal sheets or other non-slip material.

The fences will be made of angle steel. To create supports for the treads, prepare reinforcement.

First step. Cut the reinforcement into fillets. These are special support devices placed on the beam. Select the dimensions and required number of fillies in accordance with the terms of the design documentation for your staircase.

Second step. Weld mounting brackets to the side of the filly on which the step will subsequently “lie.”

Third step. Weld the fillets to the channel installed on the rib. Pre-prepared markings made in accordance with the design documentation will help you with this.

Attach the second channel to the prepared channel beam with fillets attached to it and correct the markings if deviations are detected.

For self-assembly of an ordinary staircase with a meter width, a couple of stringers or bowstrings will be enough. If the staircase has more impressive dimensions, equip it with three or more support beams.

Fourth step. Assemble all the elements of a homemade metal staircase into a single structure using welding.

Fifth step. Treat the metal with a primer, and after it dries, with a special anti-corrosion compound.

Finally, all that remains is to install the assembled staircase on the supports. The support functions can be performed by racks, high-quality welded from a channel, as well as metal corners attached to the support beams by welding.

If you wish, you can give preference to a more complex design of a metal staircase with a bowstring cut from thick sheet metal. Cut according to the design, as accurately and accurately as possible. Otherwise, the procedure for assembling the staircase will not differ from the assembly of the design option considered above.

After assembling and installing the structure, proceed to covering the steps.

Step cladding

A variety of materials can be used to finish the steps of a metal staircase. In households, such finishing is most often done using wooden overlays.

First step. Mark on the metal steps the locations of future holes for bolts or screws in increments of 150 mm. The distance between the end edges of the steps and the mounting holes must be at least 20 mm.

Second step. Attach plywood backing to the treads. Fix the element using a special adhesive composition, usually sold with the mark “with filling effect”. This glue is notable for the fact that it does not wrinkle after hardening. In addition, the filling adhesive composition allows you to eliminate various minor defects that inevitably appear even with the highest quality welding.

It is prohibited to use simple mounting foam to fix the substrate - this material does not have the necessary resistance to crushing and very quickly deforms under the influence of mechanical loads.

Third step. Secure the wooden overlay to the tread using a pair of clamps, and then finally secure it through the pre-prepared mounting holes. If you use self-tapping screws, place them underneath in the undertight area. If fastening is carried out with bolts, fix it openly.

Carry out the covering of all steps according to the above diagram.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in assembling a simple metal staircase yourself. Having studied the basic provisions of the instructions and learned additional nuances, you will be able to cope with all the activities yourself. Improve your skills, and very soon you will be able to assemble more complex and aesthetically pleasing staircase structures of any size, type and configuration.

Successful work!

Video - DIY metal stairs

Introduction

Good afternoon Most likely, you found this article because you wanted to know how to make a metal staircase to the second floor. And this is not an ordinary article, but detailed instructions written by an experienced staircase specialist, which will help you install a metal staircase yourself - from calculations and design to final painting. Before starting this article, look at the photos of the stairs that can be made using these step-by-step instructions. More precisely, the final version of the staircase may be exactly the same as in the picture, but we will make a metal frame for the staircase.

In order to be able to do all the work yourself, you will need to calculate the stairs. If you have it, great! We continue reading the article and skip the next video; if it is not there, then watch the video, take measurements and calculate the stairs, and after that you can only begin to manufacture the metal frame of the stairs to the second floor.

minimum - calculation of the stairs on paper, where the type of stairs is indicated at the top

maximum - first do the staircase calculation, and then do the staircase design

If there is no calculation yet, no project, then you can also read this article for a general acquaintance with what you will need to do, but know that some nuances will be unknown to you (for example: you will not understand why the stringers have such dimensions , from where I already have ready-made elements of the winder steps, which I just attach, grab by welding and they fit “like clockwork,” etc.)

Step 1. Necessary tools and overview of the staircase opening.

In order to mount a metal staircase to the second floor of the house, we will need a certain set of tools. To perform these works at a professional level, more advanced tools are required, which are presented in Fig. 1 on the right. But since this article was written for those who can hardly be considered professionals in the construction business, we will dwell in more detail on the list of tools and equipment that is necessary and sufficient for the manufacture of a metal staircase to the second floor for domestic purposes in your own home or in the country.

A necessary tool for making a metal staircase.

So, if you are planning to make a staircase, check if you have everything from this list:

Inverter welding machine for welding metal structures;

Angle grinder for cutting channels and corners;

Large and small levels for maintaining and leveling the structure;

Milling cutter for processing wooden surfaces and giving corner surfaces a frieze shape;

Plane;

Drill;

Fine-toothed saw;

Corner;

Cam for driving anchors;

At least 8 clamps for temporary fastening of the structure;

Flat and Phillips screwdrivers;

pliers;

Drills with a diameter of 2.5; 3; 6; 10 and 12 mm;

Finger cutters with a diameter of 8 and 10 mm;

Radius cutters and radius milling tips with a diameter of 8 and 10 mm.

A T-shaped driver with a Phillips and a flat bit, however, you can make a similar L-shaped screwdriver yourself from round fittings and a bit, as I did.

Overview of the staircase

Now is the time to get acquainted with the object - the place in the house where the staircase is located and where we will mount our metal staircase to the second floor. All work can be done by one person and I myself will adhere to this rule at all stages, and you will just need to follow my recommendations step by step to install the stairs.

Here the shaft under the stairs looks schematically like this (top view), the metal staircase itself will be L-shaped, it is shown in the diagram with a red line.

I warn you: the photo is of poor quality, since I took the photo a long time ago and on an old device, but this will not bother you.

At our facility we have an entrance door, a window and the staircase itself between the first and second floors.

Some difficulty in this project lies in the fact that the opening itself is quite small and the stairs must be built end-to-end. Therefore, it is especially important not to make mistakes when making calculations and markings.

By the way, you can get acquainted with the typical mistakes that can be made with a careless approach to the design and calculation of stairs in our video.

But let's get back to the markup. It is necessary to mark out all the distances on the wall, draw out the steps in order to avoid annoying mistakes, which are not always easy to correct, and in some cases you will have to disassemble the structure and start all over again. We start from the place where our future metal staircase will cling to the beam with stringers.

In the photo above, I highlighted the contours of the opening in blue so that you can fully understand where we will mount the staircase. Probably, someone already guessed that we would have an L-shaped staircase in this situation. Here I am showing a photo of what it will look like to at least motivate you a little to read the article to the end, despite its complexity.

On the second floor there is a temporary board of 20-25 mm. According to the customer’s conditions, a floor with a height of 40 mm will be laid on the second floor, and we must take this value into account.

This is easy to do - place a lintel and nail a nail at a level of 40 mm from the concrete floor on which the floor will be laid.

Important! We measure the height of the stairs not from the floor to the ceiling, but from the floor of the first floor, including the floor covering on it, to the floor of the second floor, also taking into account the floor covering. As in the diagram below.

We also take into account that the floor below will not be concrete either; it is planned to lay a 10 mm thick laminate there - this also needs to be taken into account in our calculations. By the way, in our case, the customer acted very wisely and decided to embed the ladder into the wall, tying it to the beam, thereby using an additional distance equal to the width of the wall - this way we gained an additional about 40 cm.

So, having secured the nail, we attach a tape measure to it and stretch it to the floor of the first floor. We measure the resulting distance - it is equal to 3.09 m. We plan 15 steps and 16 flights, so we divide 3.09 m by 16 and get 193.12 mm. To this value we add 40 mm of the floor thickness to take this into account during the installation process and we get the first distance of 233.12 mm. To this value we add the next step - 193.12 and we get 426.24 mm. We perform this simple mathematical operation until we get the floor mark and our initial distance from floor to floor of 3.09 m.

Once again: so that you do not get confused, I will repeat. We now simply take the height from the clean floor of the 1st floor and the clean floor of the 2nd floor.

Step 2. We begin to make a metal staircase to the second floor of the house.

So, we have made all the calculations and now, based on the existing design drawing, we begin the installation of the metal staircase frame. Installation usually begins from the bottom up, that is, first we install the lower flight, then the winder steps, and the last stage is the upper flight.

First of all, we must determine the location of the support pillar.According to our drawing, the support pillar should be at a distance of 880 mm from the wall, and we set aside these 880 mm from the wall to the doors of the future support post.Despite the fact that I wrote above that we install the lower flight first, and then the winder steps, we need to understand what we will attach the lower flight to and we simply cannot secure the lower flight on both sides if there is no support pillar

This drawing sheet is made as a mirror image of the following photo, that is, in the drawing we are looking at the staircase from the rear wall.

We should also take into account the thickness of the riser board that will stand in this place in the future. To do this, we set aside 18 mm - the thickness of the board and an additional 18 mm, so that later it would be easier to mount the tree on a metal frame.

Now, according to our markings, which were made using a tape measure and a laser level, we find the level of the 9th stage, which will be the first winder stage.

Let me remind you that, as we did in the first step, we count the steps from top to bottom. We mark these dimensions using a laser level. After this, in exactly the same way we make the height mark of the next 10th step and, accordingly, the level of the next 11th step.

Having made the elevation marks of the steps, we apply our blanks for the outer part of the winder steps, which look like a zigzag, to the wall, make holes in the wall and in the blanks and fasten them to the wall (in our case, I simply drive the reinforcement into the walls, since the walls are made of hollow expanded clay blocks) .

We return to the drawing again and see what distances we should have from the wall to the channel.

Accordingly, we put them aside and draw on the wall a projection of that part of the staircase that is adjacent to the wall.

The entire prototype of our future staircase will thus be visible on the first and second walls, along which the steps will go.

We take all sizes solely on the basis of the completed project. At the same time, we simultaneously check whether everything has been taken into account and if, suddenly, any errors arise, we immediately make adjustments. Only after we have made sure that the entire metal staircase is displayed on our walls in exact accordance with the project, do we begin to mount its frame to the wall with pins.

I would like to draw your attention and explain why in the video and the screenshot presented above there are many drilled holes in which there are pins that are not driven in. In the house where the work is being done, the walls are built from hollow expanded clay blocks. Therefore, it is not always possible to hit a solid body the first time; it happens that the drill falls into voids. Solving this problem is not difficult. If you have walls made of solid brick or aerated concrete with a density of D500, then you will not face such a problem.

If you find yourself in a void, then remove the channel and drill two holes at once - one at a distance of approximately 7 cm from the first unsuccessful hole. One of them will definitely be made entirely in a solid body and will allow it to be firmly fixed.

Therefore, you should not be lazy and need to drill exactly two holes at once.

Next we need to install the upper part of the stringer (channel). Before moving on to this step, let's summarize what we have done so far: We installed the lower stringer, installed the support pillar, installed the zig-zag winder steps.

After we have done all this, we move on to installing the top stringer. Using a protractor, we measure the angle that needs to be cut, place it on the stop part and cut it off.

After this, stretch the tape measure from the top to the stop part and measure the distance, again using a protractor, set it aside and cut off the desired angle. On the cut channel we weld a support heel, which will secure the upper span of the metal staircase to the beam. After this, we measure the distance between the floor of the second floor and the last winder step. This size is the length of our upper stringer.

We cut the channel to this length and then begin to install it.

The last thing we do at this stage is check the height of the post. The height of the pillar should not be higher than the level of the winder step. To check we use a level.

The height of the support column must exactly correspond to the level of the winder step.
If the level shows any deviations, then we cut or increase the height of the column.

Step 3 Completion of metal frame manufacturing.

We completed the previous stage by checking the height of the support column. Now that we have checked its level, we firmly grab the support post with temporary tools to the channel, which is located against the wall, so that it does not move. In fact, we did this at the previous stage, but sometimes it is more convenient to do this a little later or a little earlier (depending on the characteristics of the object) and therefore I repeat this step in order to notify you that at this step this action is mandatory must be done.

If this is not done, then the pole will “walk” and we will not be able to become attached to it. Having tied to the support pillar, we can begin the installation of the following elements of the supporting frame.

Now we install the channel stringer from the support pillar to the floor of the first floor. Immediately after this, we check the level: at the height of the support pillar and slightly below.

The level should show full compliance with the height of the stringers on the two sides of our future staircase.

Now we mount the second upper stringer by welding it to the support post.

Now we need to drive the pins into the wall and firmly secure the frame. However, before this, it is imperative to weld the connections of the staircase contour. The fact is that when we start driving the pins into the wall, they will begin to move the channel up or down. It is impossible to drill an ideal hole in a brick or concrete wall and this is inevitable.

If the frame is not secured with welding seams, the channels will begin to diverge in different directions when the pins are driven in.

And vice versa, when we first weld the joints of the channels and then hammer in the pins, they also move the frame elements in different directions, but the welded joints in this case go against each other and the strength of their connection only increases. For structures such as stairs, which must last for decades, this is important.

I also want to immediately draw your attention to the fact that the channel must be fastened with the small part facing outwards. I won’t dwell on this in detail for now, but in the future we will return to this and I will explain why it is necessary to do this. To avoid any deviations, for now we leave in place temporary supports that secure the load-bearing elements of the frame of the future metal staircase. After that, we scald everything and drive in the pins. First we scald it, and then we beat it in!

And just now we will begin to tie the area with corners. To begin with, we weld the first jumper onto the first winder stage. It should be offset by 1 cm in the corner.

NOW LET'S GO TO THE RUN STEPS.

Let's begin to connect the outer part of the winder steps with the support pillar, that is, to finish the frame of the winder steps, we will do it like this.

We weld the first jumper from the corner, weld two ears, which will subsequently hold the riser.

Why does the corner need to be recessed 10 mm in relation to the support column? Because in the future you need to install a wooden riser here (they also use an MDF riser) and in this case it has a thickness of 10 mm.

After this, we weld the second jumper, which now fits exactly into the corner of the support post.

We weld the third jumper in the same way.

ALL CORNERS OF THE WINDING STEPS MUST GO TO DIFFERENT CORNERS OF THE SUPPORT POST

INSTALLING THE STEPS FRAMEWORK.

Now we are ready to start installing the corners under the steps. We start again from the top of the stairs and, using a tape measure, measure the actual distance from the top point of the channel to the breaking point. For us it was 266 cm.

In this area we will have 8 steps, respectively, we divide the resulting value of 266 cm by 8 and get 33.25 cm. For convenience, we mark these eight segments, each 33.25 cm, directly on the wall.

We mark the markings in the same way as at the very beginning, from the highest point to the lowest, each time adding 33.25 cm.

That is, we make the first mark at a distance of 33.25 cm from the top point of the channel, the second - 66.5 cm, and so on. We carry out similar actions at the bottom of the stairs: from the third lintel to the last step - the section on the channel. If we follow this algorithm, we will reach both the break point of the channel and the lowest point of the ladder without any deviations.

We make marks on the channel using a scriber, and then, using a level, we draw the projection of future supports under the steps directly on the wall. We do this as follows: we bring the level to the top mark on the channel, set it and draw a horizontal line on the wall. After this, we bring the level to the next mark down the channel, set the level vertically and draw a line. This is how we get a projection of the future stage. All that remains is to check its dimensions for compliance with our original project. We measure and get a step width of 270 mm and a height of 193 mm, which corresponds to our initial design calculations.

We will need to weld the corner under the base of the step to the channel, so we add another 70 mm to the resulting step width distance of 270 mm and get 340 mm. That is why, by the way, we had to fasten the channel with a flat surface inward. On the contrary, we reduce the vertical distance by 1 mm and make it not 193 mm, but 192 mm. We need to set aside the same distances of eight segments for the steps on the second channel parallel to the wall.

Again we measure the actual distance from the top point to the support post and from the support post to the bottom point.

It turned out that the upper part of the far channel turned out to be 2 cm longer than the one fixed on the wall - 268 cm. The difference is less than 1% and can be neglected, but it should be evenly distributed between all 8 steps of the span. Therefore, we divide exactly 268, and not 266, as before, by 8 and get the length of the segment that we will lay off - 33.5 cm. As before, according to the usual algorithm, we begin to lay off the segments from the top point to the bottom. The dimensions of the base corner itself for the step, which will be welded to the channel, are left the same as those that we calculated for the channel against the wall.

LET'S START MAKING CORNERS FOR THE STEPS.

So, having completed all the calculations, we proceed to preparing the bases for the wooden steps from the corner. First, we cut blanks from the corner with a total length of 532 mm (340 mm + 192 mm are the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the support for the steps, which we calculated above).

After this, we set aside a smaller distance of 192 mm (this is the height of our riser, or in other words, the height of each step) and mark a perpendicular line.

Then from the point of contact we draw a line at an angle of 45 degrees in one direction and the other, i.e. We make markings to cut out the metal to bend the corner at 90 degrees.

We make the cutout itself using a sander along strictly drawn lines.

As a result, we get a cut angle of 90 degrees.

To make it easier to bend the metal later, we also carefully make a shallow cut, no more than 1.5-2 mm, using a grinding machine.

And we bend our blanks and we get this bent corner.
For the upper part of the span, we need to make 8 steps - from the second floor to the winder steps. Accordingly, we make 8 mirror pairs of corners, which we will weld to the channels.

8 such corners

and 8 mirror reflection corners
Having made all the supporting pairs of steps, we proceed to installation, welding their planes to the back side of the channels. To do this, we sequentially attach the supports for the steps according to the markings made on the channels. We use clamps for this.

We constantly monitor the level in all directions! Two key conditions that must be met:

1. Clearly maintain a horizontal level between the supports for the steps on both sides of the stairs.

2. The vertical posts of the supports must align exactly with the previously made marks on the channel.

The very last step is to weld the jumpers.

Bottom march on the side

As a result, we get a metal frame for the stairs to the second floor.

Step 4. Let's get started cover a metal frame with wood. How to sheathe a staircase on a metal frame

We have completely assembled the metal frame of the staircase in the house to the second floor and now we are starting to cover it with wood. According to the project, the length of the step is 90 cm. As blanks, we prepare boards 100 cm long - with a margin, so that later we can cut them more accurately along the edges and fit them tightly, without gaps.

We will start by installing wall and side boards that will run along the stairs from top to bottom. In order to cut them out correctly, we start by drawing a projection of the elements of the wall board on the wall. We will have four such elements: one each for the upper and lower spans and two in the area of ​​the winder steps.

We place a riser board at the beginning and end of the upper span and install a step close to the riser.

We mark with a pencil on the wall the places where the wooden steps go and then remove them. In the area of ​​the winder steps, you can use not ready-made steps for marking, but ordinary bars of the same thickness of 50 mm. In the same way, we transfer to the wall the places where the edges of the steps and riser boards meet, after which we remove them.

Now we need to draw the lines of the upper section of the wall strip; it will protrude from the extreme corners of the steps by 3 cm. Accordingly, using a corner, we set aside these 3 cm from the intersection points at an angle of 45 degrees to the horizontal surface of the steps. Using this algorithm, we pass all the points above each step, except for the winders.

We draw two lines using the obtained points: along the upper and lower spans to the beginning of the winder steps - these are the projections of the two wall planks.

We make the projection of the wall boards in the area of ​​the winder steps as follows. By eye, we select a point in the corner of the walls where the lines of the upper and lower wall boards will converge and draw lines according to the level from the outer steps to this intersection point. At the break points between the wall boards along the span and above the winder steps, we draw two parallel lines. We draw lines through the places where they intersect - along these lines we will then cut the wall boards.

The board that we will use as a wall board is 30 cm wide - that’s a lot,

A width of 22 cm will be enough for us, even with a margin. We can use the cut-off part in the future to finish the winder part.

We cut off the extra 8 cm with a regular jigsaw on the table.

After this, we measure the upper corner of the wall strip. To do this, draw a vertical line from any riser on the upper span using a level,

We measure the angle along it and transfer it to the board with a protractor, outline it and cut it off. To get the most accurate angle and cut of the wall board at the break point, do the following. At the top of the stairs, we attach a plank with two screws and screw a screw into it from the side at the point of intersection of the plank and the line of the upper edge of the future wall board, the projection of which is displayed on the wall.

We attach a tape measure to the screw, stretch it and measure the distance to the break line. We also measure the angle and trim the bottom of the board.

After this, the wall board can be attached to the supporting channel. We do this using self-tapping screws under the steps in the corner through plastic anchors. Now we move on to installing the second wall board.

We carry out all the same operations: we measure with a protractor and transfer to the board the corners that need to be cut off at the break point and in the corner of the wall. However, there are a number of nuances.

Firstly, at the point of contact with an already installed board, it is better to saw off the corner using an end board, so that the cut is as even as possible and the two boards fit exactly against each other, butt to butt.

With certain skills, such accuracy can be achieved using a hacksaw with a fine tooth. You won't be able to make an even cut with a jigsaw.

Secondly, we attach this part of the wall board to the wall.

For this we use black 65 mm screws and 8 mm dowels. The attachment points must be designed so that they are subsequently covered with steps. The boards for steps and risers will also close the gaps between the staircase sheathing and the metal.

The dimensions of angles and distances from the wall to the workpieces can be transferred in another way - using a sheet of Whatman paper or cardboard. We slip the sheet under a metal stringer or behind an already installed wall board and apply the required markings on it. Thus, we obtain a pattern template for the element that we plan to install.

It is not necessary to draw the entire element on the sheet; some parts of it can be transferred to the workpiece using measuring tools.

Having installed all the wall strips, we proceed to preparing the facing board,

which will be attached to the outside of the stairs. It also has a thickness of 15 mm. Using clamps, we press it against the metal stringer so that there is 30 mm from the end of the board to the stringer. In order to take measurements, according to which we will then cut out the steps, we use a tube sharpened at an acute angle.

We simply run this tube along the entire plane of the metal staircase frame, outlining its outline on the inner surface of the board. It turns out that this is the marking.

Before we start cutting out the outer facing board, so that the lines are more clearly visible, we draw them with a pencil.

We also draw a channel line, which is located 3 cm from the end of the board. This will help us secure the board in place more accurately. The presence of minor irregularities after installation does not matter, since they will subsequently be covered with a corner.

Step 5 We install steps and risers on the frame of a metal staircase.

Now we begin to install the steps and risers. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that we are currently undergoing preliminary assembly.

Finally, the solid wooden cladding of metal stairs is assembled only after painting and varnishing.

Before attaching the steps and risers, we drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm for self-tapping screws in the corners. For the steps we will use screws 30 mm long and 4-5 mm in diameter, and for risers - 16 mm and the same diameter.

We have already installed two steps and one riser and now we need to install the second one.

In this case, when we try to install a riser, we discover that it does not fit, its size is slightly larger than the opening under it. We measure how much it performs. We have literally a few millimeters extra, so we remove them with a regular plane. If you need to remove 7 mm or more, then it is better to do this with a jigsaw or hacksaw.

Having adjusted the riser to the required dimensions, we install it. Now let's see how tightly it fits against the side bar. If we see a gap, then we do the following: apply a level, draw an even line and cut it with a miter saw. If you are confident in your carpentry skills, then you can use a hacksaw.

Now we carry out the same actions with the step. We place it face up, adjust it close to the riser first, and check that there are no gaps. If there is, then we remove it.

Having adjusted the step to the riser, make sure that it also fits snugly to the side panel.

For this purpose, we made a reserve of 10 cm when preparing the boards for the steps.

After the step is completely adjusted, on its reverse side we mark the holes for the screws with a pencil and use a drill with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm to drill holes for the screws that will later be used to fasten the step.

If this is not done, then they simply will not fit into dense wood.

When we have installed all the steps, we need to cut off the remaining excess parts and do this evenly. How can I make this task easier for myself?

First, we measure how much the top step protrudes from the riser cladding board. We got 83 mm. We set aside these 83 mm on the upper side of the step and mark it with a dot or line. The step should protrude beyond the facing board by 25-35 mm and at the same time correspond to the length of the upper riser board. In our case, we can make a 32 mm release, i.e. we fall into the interval indicated above.

We mark these 32 mm on the front side of the step and measure the distance from this point to the facing board adjacent to the wall.

We get a step width of 95 cm.

We transfer the same 95 cm to the lower step and make a corresponding mark on the end protruding beyond the facing board.

On the outside of the line along which you will need to saw off the excess part of the step, screw in a self-tapping screw.

Since we cut off this part, the place where the self-tapping screw is screwed in will go to waste. We do the same at the top. After this, we stretch the fishing line between the upper and lower self-tapping screws and, using a corner, transfer the cutting line to each step.

This way, all the steps will be cut perfectly exactly along one line.

Let's move on to the winder steps. I have already made and installed two of them, I still have one more in the shape of a triangle. Despite the fact that this is a simple geometric figure, even with it certain difficulties arise. But we will return to the stage a little later.

We begin work with the winder steps by sheathing the support pillar with temporary bars.

The blocks must exactly match the thickness of the boards with which we will cover it at the end. They must specify the geometry with which we will work. We apply a riser, you can simply use any board of the same thickness, now we just need to measure how much the step will protrude. To do this, we apply a 3 cm thick strip to the riser and mark on the wall board the distance by which the step will protrude beyond the riser.

To measure the step itself, I strongly recommend using whatman paper to make a template.

Without serious skills, you are unlikely to be able to do it differently, at least the first time. We start by measuring the distance and angle of the step at the side panel. As a rule, the angle is not perfectly flat; there is no such thing as a 90-degree angle. Using a level or a staff, draw a line and mark the distance that was previously marked on the side panel. Thus, we get one edge of the step. We cut the cardboard along the line and continue marking our template. We trace along the back side along the riser and support post. After this, add 3 cm to the resulting line, by which the step will protrude. We draw this line and cut the cardboard. The step according to the resulting template can be made either in a carpentry shop or cut from a panel. I used a 1.2m x 60cm shield, placed a template on it, traced it and cut it out.

It is necessary to apply the leading part to the side of the shield along which the fibers run.

Those. the corner of the template should diverge from the center of the sheet to one of the sides of the sheet. When we cut, we need to make a small allowance, about 5 mm, in order to be able to accurately fit the step, gradually cutting off the excess areas. It is better to cut with a miter saw.

After we have cut out the step blank, we begin to customize it.

It cannot be cut perfectly straight even in a workshop; precise adjustment can only be done directly on site.

Therefore, we repeat all previous procedures. We take the strip within our 5 mm margin and begin to cut the sides one by one, first the one adjacent to the side panel, then to the riser.

We perform leveling cutting using a router.

Lastly, we cut off the part of the step on which the post will be attached, and make a hole through which the bolt will be attached. We place the pillar made according to the drawings and mark the cutout in the step and riser. The cut is made to the corner and the post should be sunk into the steps.

The middle and lower winder steps are made in exactly the same way. We start by making a template, applying a sheet of cardboard to each side in turn, cutting it and applying it again.

Do not forget that the step should protrude 5 cm from the corner or 3 cm from the riser board.

And I remind you once again that cutting the step in its winder part should be done along the grain. Otherwise, the workpiece will simply be damaged. And all sizes of steps, of course, must be made in accordance with the drawing.

In this part of the video you can see how, using a small router, you can level a board that we cut with a jigsaw and because of which this side turned out to be uneven.

We need to remove 7 mm. The distance from the edge of the cutter to the end is 57 mm, respectively, we set aside 50 mm from the line along which we need to trim, attach the guide and select the unnecessary part with a router. This way we straightened out the unevenly cut end. It may take 2-4 days while we complete the assembly of the wood members of the metal staircase, cutting the corners that cover the seams between the outer side panel and the inner protruding sides of the steps and risers. During this time, the tree may dry out and settle.

It is necessary to check whether the outer panel is warped in certain places.

We use a level for this, apply it and look, if it’s a little crooked, then press it lightly and the panel should fall into place, check the tightness of the risers so that they fit completely to the wall board, press it and draw a line with a pencil. The line can be made slightly indented so that after cutting, this part does not stick out. Then it will be covered with a corner.

After we have disassembled the staircase before varnishing, we check all the wooden parts for chips, all kinds of flaking, and polishing that could have occurred during the installation and trimming process. All this needs to be eliminated. We take regular wood putty and, using a spatula, go through all the places where polishing and peeling have appeared. First we go through all the rough spots and leave them to dry. Then we finally level all surfaces with a sander.

We check all steps and risers and sand them before varnishing.

Step 6 Installation of balusters and handrails. How to properly attach balusters to stairs.

We begin to install the pillars and balusters of the stairs to the second floor. We start by attaching a post to the removed step on the back side.

To do this, we use a self-tapping screw 10 mm in diameter and 80 mm in length. We firmly pull the post to the step and secure it to the metal frame of the stairs. We check the position of the pillar by level.

Now you can start installing the balusters. We attach them to screws with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 80 mm, and we also use washers.

We check each installed baluster for level.

To temporarily fix the balusters, we use clamps, tighten all the installed balusters together with a batten and again go through each baluster with a level to check whether their position has been lost during the tie. After making sure that all the balusters are installed correctly, we make marks with a pencil on each of them: we mark the position of the balusters on the bar simulating the railing, as well as on the baluster itself - at what angle we will cut it.

You will need to cut only with a miter saw and nothing else.

Having removed and cut the balusters, we set them up again using the previously used strip.

We check everything again with a level.

After this, you can attach the support bar. If you do not check the level, the bar will move and the railing will not lie straight.

Having secured the support bar, we place the railing on it, the handrail itself and fasten it on the reverse side with screws.

Now our staircase in the house is ready in its first preliminary assembly.

Step 7 Coating with paint and varnish.

To varnish all the wooden elements of the stairs we will need:

Skinning.

I usually use regular stain. Its advantage is that it does not leave stains and rubs well, but it takes longer to dry, at least a day, and only then can you begin to varnish.

We paint the balusters by hanging them on pre-driven nails. Rotating, cover them with a stream of varnish.

The density of the solution supply is controlled experimentally: the pressure in the compressor is 8 atmospheres, and after the reducer it is about 2 atmospheres.

Before you start painting, you can try several times how it will look, make samples, adjust and after that start applying stain.

And, of course, before you start applying stain and varnish, all wooden parts of the stairs must be cleaned so that there is no lint. You don’t have to hang the steps, but paint them on a table or other flat surface. That’s all, actually. All that remains is to reassemble the ladder, and it will serve you for a long time! If you still doubt whether you are up to this job or you are not sure. If you have the necessary time to complete all the work yourself, we will be happy to help you! You can familiarize yourself with the range and prices for stairs that we design and install in this section of our website. There you can also get ideas for your own project, if you are determined to make YOUR own staircase. If you are interested in learning in more detail how we designed this particular staircase or learning how to design stairs using this example, then watch this video.

You can also check your calculations and get advice on improving the comfort level of the stairs using our online calculator:

Stairs to the second floor, made of metal, are strong, durable, but at the same time light, openwork and fit well into the interior of the house. They can have any color schemes, platform sizes, steps; there is a wide variety of shapes and designs, which, in combination with various materials, helps to implement all kinds of design tasks.

Metal bears the main load, but its high performance characteristics allow it to successfully withstand external influences, it is easy to work with, so the staircase can be completely made with your own hands. Occupying a smaller area, it divides the space between the premises on the ground floor and on the upper level.

Choosing the best option

Regardless of the complexity of manufacturing and the type of product chosen, the work begins with determining the location of the future structure, after which drawings are drawn up, consumable building materials are calculated, and tools are prepared. At this stage, it also wouldn’t hurt to familiarize yourself with the SNiP standards that flights of stairs must comply with.

The main requirements are:

• The recommended width for stairs in the house is 900 cm.
• The height of the steps is 16–21 cm.
• The depth is 27 cm, which corresponds to the size of the average man’s foot.
• Convenient slope of the march is 30–40°. With smaller values, the structure will take up a lot of space; with larger values, you will no longer have to walk on it, but climb it.
• The railing must withstand lateral forces of 100 kg.
• The distance between them is 15 cm. If there are small children in the family, it is recommended to reduce it to 12 cm.

The most common types of stairs are: The most popular option is on two stringers, load-bearing beams on which steps are installed.

On one stringer. The entire load falls on the central metal beam, made of a powerful I-section, channel, on which the remaining elements are attached. The steps are located in the middle. Such stairs are durable and take up little space, while looking airy.

On bowstrings, special supports located on the side of the steps.

On bolts, anchor bolts, with which the steps are attached to the wall.

Spiral staircase design. This is the most interesting, but at the same time difficult to implement option. The central support in the form of a pillar acts as a load-bearing element.

If you have no experience in manufacturing iron structures, you should choose and make a simple one-flight staircase for the first time. If the flight has more than ten steps, it makes sense to provide an intermediate platform or a turn.

To get started, you will need to prepare the following tool:

• welding machine with mask and gloves;
• a grinder with metal discs for cleaning surfaces;
• drill with a set of drills;
• stable iron table;
• vices, clamps;
• tape measure, square, pencil.

As well as materials such as:

• metal profile, corners;
• wood for finishing steps;
• white spirit, primer, paint.

Straight metal stairs

The easiest to manufacture is a straight flight of stairs (on stringers). Stringer is an inclined beam that serves as the basis for fastening other elements. At the initial stage, in order to eliminate possible errors, you should prepare drawings and master an inverter-type welding machine, which is more convenient to use.

The metal frame is assembled as follows:

• The channel, which forms the basis of the future march, is installed on the edge.
• From reinforcement and corners, fillets and supports for steps are cut, and brackets are welded to them.
• Using pre-applied markings, they are attached to the channel by welding, but before that, by placing two profiles next to each other, they check the correspondence of the marks. They must match.
• Install fence posts - railings. If necessary, additional supports are installed to increase their rigidity.
• Jumpers are cut from the corner, with the help of which two channels are connected to each other.
• After assembling all the elements, the flight of stairs is installed in place.
• Finally, the joints are cleaned and coated with a primer.

At this point, the welded iron structure is ready and the steps can be made. For these purposes, corrugated or ordinary sheet metal is suitable, but if the staircase is located inside the house, then it is better to pay attention to finishing materials such as wood, artificial, and natural stone.

Having prepared the wooden planks (the dimensions of the blanks are selected arbitrarily, based on the existing distance between the beams), they are fixed using self-tapping screws or using bolted connections. In the latter case, to facilitate the process, the necessary markings are applied to the wood and channel and the corresponding holes are prepared.

Features of installation work

The most widespread are marches with one central stringer and two side strings. Usually the main supporting element is a channel or profile pipe. The following requirements are offered for installation of the structure.

The beams must be securely and stably fastened. This concerns the accuracy of fitting their edges to the floor and the ceiling of the upper floor. To reduce the likelihood of distortions, special metal heels are installed in the contact areas and, having secured them with anchor bolts, the beams are then welded.

The frame for the steps in the form of a rectangular platform is made from a corner. Taking into account the characteristics of the material for further finishing, the corner is welded with the shelves down and inward. This option is acceptable for steps made of wood or corrugated metal sheets, but for concreting, ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, it is assembled with the profile up and inward. The number of blanks must correspond to the number of steps.

The process of creating fillies - supports curved in the shape of the letter "L" - is somewhat more complicated, since all the parts must be welded to the beams absolutely symmetrically, then each of them is additionally strengthened with gussets and connected with a transverse crossbar. This leads to an increase in the number of welds and increases the complexity of the work.

The length is selected arbitrarily, trying to ensure that the slope of the central stringer is within 30–45°.

The best result is obtained if the manufacture of the staircase is planned during the design process of a private house. Then there are no problems at the march installation stage.

Screw design for small spaces

When a private house has limited space, or a metal flight of stairs does not fit into the interior of the room, many owners pay attention to screw structures. Because they take up less space and can be assembled using stringers, bowstrings, and loaches. The last option for fastening to bolts is especially popular if you have to do all the work yourself, since welding is not needed. Then it is enough to secure the central pillar and then add steps to it.

To make the staircase comfortable, in addition to the main dimensions (width, height, depth of steps), it is necessary to take into account the diameter. To determine it, the length of the step is multiplied by two and d of the support column is added.

The quantity can be determined based on the requirements of SNiP, according to which the height of the offense should not go beyond 15 - 20 cm. And the width at the narrowest point is at least 10 cm, at the widest - 27 cm, but the best indicator is within 30 cm .

When starting to manufacture a spiral staircase, work is performed in the following order:

• Installation of the central pillar. This operation should be carried out during the construction stage, since the lower end can be easily concreted to the recommended depth of 40 cm, and the upper end can be fixed to the ceiling with dowels. In the finished room, a base in the form of support plates is welded along the edges of the pillar and only then they are fixed with fasteners.
• Installation of steps. It is better to make them from steel and subsequently decorate them with wood, stone, and paint.
• Installation of additional support support in the form of a separate pole or wall mount. The main thing is that one of the supporting steps rests on it.
• Adding extra rigidity. To do this, all the steps are tied together using jumpers.
• Installation of fencing - railings. Their presence is an indispensable condition if the height of the staircase is or exceeds two floors, and the width of the steps is less than 90 cm. The railings are attached to additionally welded support posts.
• Decoration. Finishing is carried out with stone, wood, artistic forging, or simply painted in the desired color.

When constructing an interfloor structure, it is necessary to take into account any nuances, which in the future will allow you to avoid making mistakes and will facilitate its maintenance.

• The steps against the wall are installed with a small gap so that a sheet of wallpaper passes between them.
• The railings are welded on the side, which will maintain the width of the span.
• To remove small nicks and burrs from their surface, welding joints must be ground and only then the product is primed and painted.
• Installation of wooden steps is carried out after the paint has completely dried.
• High-quality welding work is the key to long-term, successful operation, therefore, if you do not have experience or the ability to reliably weld all the elements together, it is better to immediately turn to professional workers.
• The stairs should be safe and comfortable.

Regardless of the chosen design and the use of finishing materials, the manufacture of a metal staircase requires much fewer consumables than in other cases. The finished product is light and complements well the interior of any private home.

Metal, as a building material for the manufacture of stairs, stands out from other options due to its optimal load-bearing capacity and long-term operational life. Its technological qualities make it possible to create small-sized, lightweight structures with a configuration of any type and complexity; metal stairs fit perfectly into almost any interior composition. They are installed both inside and outside the building, leading to domestic and central presentable rooms.

An additional plus is that you can make a simple welded metal staircase yourself, and once you have gained experience and skills, you can begin making an exclusive structure yourself.

A welded metal staircase is a completely feasible idea if desired, requiring basic welding skills, which can be obtained in several practical sessions

Classification of metal stairs

In terms of design features, metal stairs: external and internal are no different from their analogues made of concrete and wood. According to typical norms and rules, projects are drawn up for them, and the most rational form is selected. According to the manufacturing method, they can be forged or welded. Forging techniques, of course, take too long to master, but to gain welding skills, a few practical lessons are enough.

Design differences, types

The most common types, the project of which can be implemented with your own hands, include:

• structures with metal stringers - peculiar ridges to which steps are mounted;

Metal stairs: structures with one load-bearing beam - stringer

• metal staircases on rails - structures without frames, consisting of individual steps attached to the load-bearing wall using special bolts;

Metal staircase, individual elements of which are bolted to the wall

• structures on inclined load-bearing beams - bowstrings, between which treads and risers or only treads are placed;

Staircase with two side load-bearing beams - bowstrings

• spiral staircases with spirally arranged stairs and a load-bearing central column;

It is better to entrust the manufacture of a metal spiral staircase to specialists or assemble it from ready-made factory modules

• prefabricated metal stairs, consisting of modules made at the factory, the process of their construction is reminiscent of assembling a simple children's construction set.

A metal structure can only rest on the floors. To increase reliability, supports can be installed under landings, under a segment of stairs with winder steps.

Platform of a metal welded staircase with a support made of a metal pipe

The platforms can also be fixed with consoles, and the racks can be hidden in the wall. The function of a load-bearing element for a metal staircase can be successfully performed by a concrete or brick specially constructed interior wall.

With your own hands you can weld not only the frame, but also build a supporting brick wall for it

The technologically advanced, durable material goes well with any type of decoration, with wood, concrete, brick, natural stone, glass and its organic analogue. Metal stairs can be equipped with any type of fencing: the photo shows how wonderful the structures look with standard vertical balusters and traditional handrails. Instead of standard elements, parallel threads, glass or perforated steel screens, hand forging and carved wood can be used.

Various design options for metal stairs: on the left there is a plexiglass railing, on the left there are chrome parallel threads

Note. Fencing parts can be attached to a metal staircase in two ways: mounted on a step or fixed by welding or bolts to the end of the step.

Fastening the fencing elements to the end of the steps, supported by a sawtooth string made of sheet metal

Depending on the operational specifics and the dictates of the style, load-bearing metal elements can be supplemented with steps made of concrete, expanded metal sheets, porcelain stoneware, reinforcing steel, corrugated iron, etc. A metal staircase with wooden steps, built according to original project. Its more modest analogue will successfully provide communication between utility rooms or help arrange a separate entrance to the attic floor.

Metal staircase with wooden steps: option for attaching vertical balusters with bolts

A staircase installed outside the building can be entirely metal, but a means of internal interfloor communication created from metal alone will not delight users with pleasant tactile sensations and warmth. It is advisable to use finishing inside. Moreover, a metal staircase can be equipped not only with standard types of steps; carpet, wear-resistant laminate, parquet dies, and facing ceramics are quite suitable.

Features of self-construction

For manufacturing you will need a welding machine, a mechanical saw and an emery wheel to remove burrs. If wood cladding is planned, then also a circular saw, clamps for temporarily joining parts and metal drills for forming holes for self-tapping screws.

According to the project created in advance, the implementation of which can be read in the corresponding article, it is calculated how many meters of metal profiles, pipes, steel sheets and reinforcing steel will be required. It should be noted that a decent metal staircase will be welded with your own hands after a series of practical classes, the course of which can also be completed independently using a video and description.

Using a compact electric arc welding machine, strong seams are made, turning the structure into a monolithic structure with strength characteristics equivalent at any point

For the manufacture of load-bearing beams (stringers or bowstrings), it is recommended to use a channel; an I-beam is suitable; angle steel and pipes with a rectangular cross-section are quite suitable.

An example of the construction of an elementary structure

This simplest metal staircase will be constructed with your own hands from a channel placed on an edge with dimensions 8-10. If subsequent cladding is intended, sheet steel can be used to make the steps; for steps of external structures, sheets with relief will be required; pressed lattice metal flooring or a similar material with anti-slip properties will be suitable. Angular steel will be needed for the fences, and reinforcement will be needed to provide supports for the treads.

Scheme of a simple metal staircase with load-bearing channel beams, to which fillets made from reinforcement are welded

• From the reinforcement it is necessary to make fillets according to the design dimensions - supporting devices congruent to each other, installed on the beam.
• To the part of the filly on which the step will directly “lie”, you need to weld brackets for fastening.
• The fillets must be welded to the channel placed on the edge according to precise, pre-made markings.
• In order to achieve complete identity, it is recommended to attach the second channel to the channel beam with already welded fillets and adjust the markings in case of deviations. Please note. To construct a staircase with a standard width of up to 1 meter, it is enough to make two stringers or bowstrings. A wider structure must be equipped with three or more beams.

• Then all the components of the metal staircase are assembled together by arc welding if everything is made of metal or by installing wooden steps.
• The finished structure must be treated with primer and coated with a corrosion-protective composition.

Supporting parts for attaching steps can be racks welded from channel bars, metal corners welded to load-bearing beams.

A more complex option is to make metal stairs with a saw-tooth string cut from thick sheet steel. You need to cut very carefully, carefully observing the dimensions.

Technology of covering steps with wood

Suppose it is decided that the external metal staircase will be equipped with wooden overlays for treads. Before carrying out the cladding, it is necessary to assess the likelihood of installing additional fasteners.

• On metal steps, the location of holes for self-tapping screws or bolts with washers is marked, at intervals of 15 cm. The holes should be at least 2 cm away from the end.
• A plywood backing is mounted to the metal treads. It is attached using a specific mounting adhesive with a filling effect; it does not wrinkle after hardening. The void-filling adhesive will help eliminate defects that are inevitable even with high-quality welding. Attention. You cannot attach the backing to the mounting foam, because... it is not crush resistant.

• Using two clamps, the wood overlay is fixed to a metal tread and fastened with self-tapping screws through drilled holes from below into the undertight area or openly with bolts and screws.

Metal staircase with wooden steps: fastening of wood elements in “pottai” is hidden from view

Having studied the simplest methods and learned how to weld a metal staircase, you can safely begin constructing a simple structure leading, for example, to a cellar. And then an experienced performer will be quite capable of producing a more complex, more aesthetic design, the production of which would not be a sin to boast about.

In the manufacture of staircases, materials such as wood, metal, glass or concrete are used, and the question arises which material is better to use and which is more practical. Metal has a number of advantages compared to other materials; it has a longer service life than wood, does not require constant maintenance like glass and is lighter than concrete structures, so making a metal staircase with your own hands looks like a more attractive option compared to the others.

Before you begin manufacturing and installing a staircase structure, you must:

• decide on the choice of model by design
• choose a manufacturing method

Types of metal stairs according to their structural characteristics are divided into six options:

1. On a metal stringer - a beam located in the center of the staircase under the steps is the load-bearing element of the staircase structure, on which brackets (fillies) are attached to secure the tread and riser.
2. On two stringers, the beams are also located below the steps, only at the edges of the staircase structure.

1. On bowstrings - two beams are used, located at the ends of the stairs, between which the steps are fixed.

1. Screw type - a support column is installed in the center, to which the steps are attached in an upward spiral.

1. On bolts - the steps are secured with specially made bolts (bolts) to the load-bearing wall.

1. Modular type - consists of ready-made factory units of the staircase structure, assembly is extremely simple according to the attached instructions.

Anyone can make a metal staircase with their own hands according to the above listed design options, but it is worth noting that a more labor-intensive project in execution will be a screw version, in terms of performing calculations of technical characteristics and the amount of materials.

Methods for manufacturing metal staircase structures

Types of metal stairs according to the manufacturing method are divided into three options:

• Forged
• cast
• Welded

If you do not have blacksmithing skills, making forged metal stairs at home is a difficult task, the only option is to turn to professionals for help and order manufacturing and installation from them, or after making your calculations, order individual elements of the stairs from a blacksmith, and have the assembly and installation done yourself. Forged staircase structures are exclusive in production, since the forging process is still done by hand.

The material for manufacturing cast metal structures is cast iron; this manufacturing method is expensive and only practical on a production scale.

Welded metal stairs are much easier to manufacture compared to forged or cast ones; with the right desire, anyone can weld a staircase with their own hands at home, but this work also requires basic knowledge of welding.

(Click on image to enlarge)

Welded metal staircase on two stringers

Before starting work, questions arise about how to make a metal staircase with your own hands and where to start; our step-by-step instructions will help you answer them.

When starting to manufacture a welded staircase structure, we will need a certain list of tools.

Set of necessary tools

• Welding machine and electrodes
• Welding mask
• Protective canvas suit and gloves
• Protective mask or goggles
• Bulgarian
• Edged and ground discs
• Drill or screwdriver with a set of metal drills
• Vise and adjustable clamp up to 800 mm
• Primer, white spirit (solvent)
• Metal brush
• A set of measuring instruments: tape measure, metal ruler, caliper, square, pencil or colored marker

After we have prepared the tool, to answer the question of how to weld a ladder, we decide on the sequence of work.

Stages of work

1. Preparation (cutting) of blanks to size
2. We make brackets (fillies), elements for securing the tread and risers to the stringer
3. Installation and securing of stringers in place
4. Welding the stairs, namely connecting the brackets with the stringer
5. Welding steps and balustrades (fencing of a staircase structure) to the staircase frame
6. We clean the surface of the structure from sharp edges and burrs
7. The final stage is priming of metal elements and painting

Preparation of stringers begins with choosing a profile; the most common is a channel or an I-beam, but this is not the entire list of available configurations; the figure below shows various options.

To ensure the safety and strength of the structure, when making a stringer, keep in mind that the shelves of the selected profile (I-beam or channel) remain intact; for example, if the tread protrudes beyond the shelf, then it is necessary to trim the tread, not the shelf.

Having decided on the profile option, we select the material for making the tread. Corrugated sheet steel is considered optimal; it eliminates the possibility of slipping on the steps and falling, but it is better to use it if the staircase structure is located inside the building. We do not recommend using it for street (external) stairs, since fallen snow cakes on the solid tread and the steps become slippery. For external steps, it is better to use grating or corrugated reinforcement; it is welded with a gap of 5–8 mm to each other, which allows snow to fall through.

We proceed to the next step - we make brackets (fillies). They are made from a metal corner or a hollow rectangular profile (it is stronger in bending than a corner). You can also make a tread base from the profile, but in order to save money, it is better to make the base from reinforcement.

Having chosen the metal according to its shape (corner or rectangular profile), we cut the joining angles at 45 degrees and connect the two elements so that we get an L-shaped corner and weld them. Manufacturing calculations include two brackets per step (staircase design on two stringers).

The brackets (fillies) must match each other in size and have a right angle.

We install and weld the stringers to the supports. If the house has a concrete floor, then the lower support can be installed directly into the concrete. We weld the upper part of the stringer to a support beam secured to the ceiling between floors with steel anchors. If the staircase is located along the wall, then we fix the nearest stringer with anchors to the wall to strengthen the staircase structure.

We mark the stringers and weld the brackets. We check the coincidence of the brackets on the horizontal plane with a level. We weld the base for the tread between the stringers. The base is also made of steel angle, rectangular profile or reinforcement.

When installing and securing the brackets for the first step (from below), be careful and take into account the height, taking into account the finished floor, so that the height of the top point of the first tread is 18 cm (optimal size).

The next step is to secure the steps to the brackets and base. The connection is made in two ways: by welding or bolts if the steps are made of metal, and for wooden steps we use screw connections.

We weld the fencing on the sides of the stairs in such a way as not to reduce the width of the flight of stairs.

The final stage of staircase construction is to clean the metal at welding points, from burrs, notches and sharp edges, treat it with a primer, and paint the metal part of the structure. After the paint has dried, we install the wooden steps, and now our DIY metal staircase is ready.

Video: manufacturing and installation of a welded metal frame

By following the step-by-step progress of the work, you will not have any problems making a metal staircase at home.