Winter garlic: cultivation, care and harvesting in the Urals. We dry it correctly! Garlic in the Urals: experience Planting garlic in spring in the Urals

The herbaceous plant garlic is popular all over the world due to its characteristic smell, pungent taste and beneficial properties. It is used in the preparation of many hot dishes, canning and pickling. Regular consumption of this spicy vegetable helps protect the body from the flu, cope with anemia and colds. That's why it's impossible imagine a garden without beds with spring garlic, which can be stored for a long time and used for food in winter.

When to plant summer garlic?

The spicy vegetable is a frost-resistant plant and can withstand sub-zero temperatures in snowy winters. However, if there is not enough snow in winter, it may freeze. Therefore, in the Urals and Siberia, most gardeners prefer to plant garlic in the spring.

Garlic is planted in the spring from late April to early May. The roots and leaves of the plant grow and form at air temperatures from +4 to +10 degrees. At higher temperatures, the bulb does not form, so it is not recommended to delay planting the vegetable.

Winter varieties are planted in beds from mid-September to early October. The plants must have time to form a root system, so they need to be planted before the onset of frost.

Spring planting of garlic in a temperate climate has its advantages:

1. When planting plants in warm soil, the seedlings are friendly. But cloves planted in autumn can freeze in winter.
2. Summer garlic is highly resistant to pests and diseases.
3. You can plant garlic in spring in almost any soil. It will grow well even in medium loamy soil.

Soil preparation

It is recommended to plant spring garlic after herbs, grains, legumes and pumpkin crops, cabbage, zucchini, and cucumbers. After garlic, onions, potatoes and carrots, a spicy vegetable can only be planted after three years.

It is not recommended to plant the plant next to beans, peas and cabbage. Garlic inhibits these crops. But since it repels many pests, its proximity will be useful for strawberries, onions, tulips, roses, gladioli and various fruit-bearing shrubs.

A site for spring garlic is chosen that is protected from the north wind and well lit. The soil should have a neutral reaction and be fertile loamy or sandy loam.

• compost or humus - ½ bucket;
• complex mineral fertilizer – 15 grams;
• wood ash - 3 cups.

In the spring, the area is leveled and garlic cloves are planted in the garden bed.

For planting in open ground, elastic and whole, medium or large cloves are selected. Just before landing they are separated from the head and together with the scales they are planted in the garden bed.

A month before planting, it is recommended to bury the heads in the snow or put them in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator for hardening. Twelve hours before sowing, the planting material is heated for ten hours at a temperature of +40 degrees or treated with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

To make the teeth germinate faster, they can be wrapped in damp gauze or cloth three days before planting and placed in a plastic bag.

The cloves should be planted in moist soil to a depth of three centimeters. There should be a distance of twenty-five to thirty centimeters between the rows. Large planting material they are placed at a distance of ten centimeters from each other, and the middle teeth are planted at intervals of eight centimeters.

Plantings can be mulched with rotted compost or peat with a layer of two to three centimeters. Mulch will retain moisture and reduce weed growth, making it much easier to care for your plants.

Features of caring for spring garlic

Caring for a spicy vegetable consists of timely watering, fertilizing, weeding and loosening the soil. . When plants grow green, watering should be plentiful. If there is a lack of moisture in the soil, the tips of the feathers begin to turn yellow and dry out.

In the second half of the growing season, the frequency of watering decreases. Excess moisture in the soil at this time leads to evaporation of the bulbs and various diseases. If it rains regularly in summer, then the plantings do not need to be watered. After rain or watering, the soil is cleared of weeds and loosened.

When the first leaves appear from the ground, the plants are fed with mineral nitrogen fertilizers, humus, herbal infusion, a solution of bird droppings or mullein.

After two weeks, another liquid fertilizing containing nitrogen is carried out. When the cloves begin to form, spring garlic is fed with an infusion of wood ash. Fresh manure cannot be used as fertilizer. It is recommended to feed plants until mid-August.

When two-thirds of the foliage turns yellow, you can begin to harvest the garlic. This usually happens in the middle or end of August. You cannot keep a spicy vegetable in the ground for a long time, as its bottom begins to grow, its teeth fall apart, and its scales crack. Such onions will not be suitable for long-term storage.

Two weeks before harvest The soil is raked away from the heads and watering is stopped. This procedure will help the onions ripen and dry.

Vegetables should be harvested on a dry and sunny day. The bulbs need to be dug up with a pitchfork, pulled out of the soil and laid out on the garden bed. If there is no rain, vegetables will need to be dried in the fresh air for about five days. If it rains, the plants are placed in a well-ventilated, dry room.

When the onions are thoroughly dry, the leaves are cut off completely and the stem is shortened to ten centimeters. It is also recommended to shorten the roots.

Garlic should be stored at an air temperature of +16 to +20 degrees. The room should be well ventilated and dry. For storage you can use wooden boxes, wicker baskets, mesh bags . If the household only has plastic containers, then the onions will need to be sprinkled with coarse salt. It will absorb moisture and the vegetables will not rot.

Despite the fact that the spicy plant repels many pests, it can be affected by four-legged garlic mites, horse mites, stem nematodes, hoverflies, secretive proboscis, moths, thrips, and onion flies. The most difficult thing to get rid of is the stem nematode. These pests, in the form of small worms, feed on the sap of the onions, as a result of which the fruits crack and the plants dry out completely. Nematodes multiply quickly and can destroy the entire crop. To protect plants from these pests, chicory or calendula are planted in the same bed with garlic.

To destroy other pests, you can use the biological product Bitoxibacillin or Lepidocid. Solutions are prepared from them, which are used to process plantings.

Among the diseases, spring garlic can be affected by white rot, downy mildew, downy mildew, bottom rot, and black mold. Fungal diseases manifest themselves as a coating on the bottom of the bulbs and between the scales, the death of roots, the appearance of yellow spots on the greenery, yellowing and drying of feathers. Treatment is carried out using the drug Namair-TM or Alirin-B.

To prevent plants from being affected by pests and diseases, it is necessary to follow crop farming practices and carry out preventive measures. Plantings can be protected from pests by spring and summer fertilizing in the form of ammonium sulfate. If the bulbs were planted too close, the plants need to be thinned out. Affected specimens are pulled out and destroyed.

Choosing a variety of spring garlic

The right variety is the key to a good harvest.. According to the timing of ripening, varieties of spicy vegetables are divided into late, mid-ripening and early. Popular varieties of spring garlic:

Choosing a variety suitable for your area, proper planting and care will allow you to get a good harvest of tasty and healthy garlic in the summer. Created for storing heads necessary conditions, until next summer you can enjoy dishes with the addition of spicy vegetables.

Garlic that is planted before winter is called winter garlic. It differs from spring (planted in spring) garlic not only in the timing of planting, but also in appearance. Many summer residents choose the winter variety due to the large size of the heads and large cloves. To get a high-quality harvest, planting garlic before winter should be carried out using a certain technology and in compliance with deadlines.

The timing of autumn planting of garlic directly depends on the depth of planting of the cloves. Most often, the tines are buried 3-5 cm into the ground. Such surface planting should be carried out 2-3 weeks before the expected frost. In regions with a cool climate, they prefer to plant garlic at a greater depth - 10-15 cm. The planting time also depends on the weather conditions of a particular area.

In outskirts of Moscow

The climate of the Moscow region is temperate continental, with pronounced seasonality. The middle zone is characterized by warm summers, moderately cold winters, and sufficient snow cover. In recent years, there has also been a general trend of strong warming. Winter in the Moscow region began to come later, severe frosts became less and less frequent and thaws became more and more frequent.

The maximum amount of precipitation occurs in the summer season; in winter, strong winds blow with a predominance of the northern, western, and southwestern directions. In fact, winter in this area lasts 5 months. Snow cover appears in November and disappears by early April. Taking into account weather changes, planting garlic before winter in this region should be done from September 20 to October 10. In more southern regions the deadline is extended until November.

The length of the Urals from north to south is more than 2000 km. It is clear that the climate of the northern and southern Ural regions is very different.

• In the Northern Urals, it is recommended to begin planting winter garlic in mid-September. If autumn weather sets in earlier, then you need to plant garlic in early September.
• For the Southern Urals, planting dates are shifted to the first ten days of October. Adjustments may be made by weather conditions.

On a note! A popular belief says that the time to plant garlic is when the birds begin to fly south for the winter.

In the climatic conditions of Siberia, the right time for planting winter garlic is from September 15 to October 5. If you plant the cloves at this time, before frost they will have time to take root and form fairly long roots without the formation of leaves. It is better to plant garlic to a depth of about 10 cm. After this, the bed is well watered - this increases the winter hardiness of the crop.

The climate of the Leningrad region is considered special. It is characterized by unstable weather conditions, which is due to frequent changes in air masses. Dry and very cold arctic air comes from the Kara Sea. Cyclones with cloudy, windy weather and precipitation arrive from the western direction.

Sometimes weather conditions change dramatically even within one day, and it is very difficult for weather forecasters to predict these changes. In addition to weather fluctuations, the region is characterized by strong winds, including squalls, blizzards, snowfalls, fogs, severe frosts and intense heat, droughts and floods.

For planting in the Leningrad region, you should take zoned varieties of winter garlic. These include: German, Dobrynya, Alcor, Podmoskovny, Novosibirsk, Replicant.

The deadline for planting winter garlic can be considered the end of September. In the south of the Leningrad region, planting can be carried out a week earlier, in colder parts of the region - a week later.

The roots of the plant are poorly developed; they begin to grow at slightly above-zero temperatures. This process occurs within 1.5 months after planting. Once garlic takes root, it can withstand winter frosts. This is why the plant needs a certain amount of time before frost begins.

Garlic is planted using separate cloves. Preparatory work includes dividing the head into individual cloves, followed by sorting the planting material and processing it. Garlic cloves can be large, medium or small. Their size should be taken into account when planting. Large cloves are buried by 8-10 cm, smaller ones by 6 cm.

Planting material must be clean and healthy, without damage. If a batch prepared for planting contains too many cloves with spots and signs of rot, it should be completely replaced.

Important! Do not use for planting heads that contain only 3-4 teeth. Such a small number of segments indicates the degeneration of the culture.

The garlic must be completely dried so that it does not grow. Its bottom is normally light gray in color. In order for the crop to grow well in the spring and be resistant to diseases, it is recommended to carry out pre-planting treatment. This can be done in one of the following ways:

1. Soaking garlic in a pink solution of potassium permanganate before planting for 30-60 minutes.
2. Treatment with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. It is more convenient to soak the garlic cloves in the evening and plant them in the morning.
3. Disinfection with saline solution: 3 tbsp. spoons of salt are dissolved in 5 liters of water and the garlic is soaked for 3 minutes, then dipped in a solution of copper sulfate for 1 minute and immediately planted.
4. Processing can be done in stages. First, the garlic is soaked in a nitroammophoska solution for one day, then in a strong salt solution for up to 30 minutes. The third solution should contain 1 tbsp. a spoonful of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, soak the garlic in it for one minute.
5. Using ash solution: 1 tbsp. A spoonful of ash is mixed in a liter of water.
6. Soaking in a solution of the drug "Maxim", which is considered a natural antibiotic and protects plants from many diseases. For treatment, one ampoule of the drug per liter of water is used. Pickle the garlic in the solution for 30 minutes.
7. Fitolavin treatment. The product protects the crop from bacterial and fungal diseases, root rot.
8. Application of Fitosporin-M. This fungicide is often used for pre-sowing preparation of garlic - it increases the plant’s immunity and makes it resistant to disease. Fitosporin-M is diluted according to the instructions. The teeth are soaked in it for 1 hour.

In addition to preparing planting material, you should also prepare the bed in advance. The further development and growth of culture will depend on the quality of the land.

Preparing the beds

Experienced summer residents who plant garlic before winter year after year have their own secrets for planting and caring for this crop. Listen to their recommendations:

• You should avoid planting garlic in places with high groundwater levels, otherwise in the spring, with the arrival of warmth, the vegetable will simply be washed away by their flows.
• The crop is not planted in soil that was previously fertilized with manure. Otherwise, the plant will have lush tops and frail heads. Plus, garlic grown on manured soil often suffers from fungal diseases.
• Only when planted after the correct predecessors can large heads be obtained. If it is impossible to maintain crop rotation, first plant Vicia sativa peas in the garden bed. This plant is an excellent green manure that will enrich the soil with compost, loosen it and disinfect it.
• Before winter, it is best to plant the purple-striped variety, which is better adapted to winter cold than others, is unpretentious and stores well.
• The earlier you plant garlic, the deeper it should be planted.
• Ideally, garlic should be grown annually. You can return it to the same bed no earlier than after 5 years.

When and how to plant garlic before winter: video

Planting garlic before winter: video

Compliance with all of the above rules will provide you with large and strong heads of the spicy vegetable. Be sure to grow garlic in your garden. Due to its beneficial properties, it will prolong your youth, preserve your health and beauty, and add bright shades of taste to prepared dishes.

Garlic is a crop that is universally loved by gardeners and agricultural technicians all over the world. And it would be strange if this valuable vegetable were not loved and grown in the Urals. But in order for garlic to please the owners with its harvest, you need to know the rules of agricultural technology for growing it and when to plant it, how to care for it and store it.

Spring garlic lasts longer and has a less pungent taste.

What to choose winter or spring

Winter garlic is best planted in the ground in late October - early November. Garlic cloves take root well and produce a bountiful harvest of large, strong bulbs at the end of July. When planting in autumn, the growing season is shorter. The bulbs grow larger. For the winter, you can plant not only cloves, but also aerial bulbs.

Spring garlic is stored longer and has a less pungent taste. But what type of garlic to choose and plant in your garden is up to you.

Soil preparation

3-4 weeks before planting, it is necessary to prepare the bed.

• Dig up the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm. Carefully remove the rhizomes of other plants found in the soil.
• Add per 1 sq. meter ten-liter bucket of rotted manure. Dig up the bed with manure.
• For 1 sq. meter, add a ten-liter bucket of sawdust, 1 liter of wood ash, 120 g of superphosphate, 1 liter of dry bird droppings, 1 liter of fluff lime. Loosen the soil with a rake.
• Form a bed and leave it until it is time to plant garlic for the winter.

Landing Features

The Urals are a special place and the climate here is also special, hot in summer, frosty in winter, so when planting garlic in the ground, you should strictly adhere to planting dates and take into account the peculiarities of the Ural climate and remember that garlic produces an excellent harvest on structural soils. It grows difficult on acidic soils, gets sick, and the bulbs are small. In this case, it is necessary to deoxidize the soil. For 1 sq. Add 10-15 kg of slaked lime per meter of vegetable bed. This measure will not only allow you to get a rich harvest, but will also ensure long-term storage.

Planting should not be delayed, since in dry and well-warmed soil the above-ground green part of the plant forms and develops well, into which all nutrients will go, and the root system will be weak. The vegetable will lack nutrition, the yield and its quality will decrease.

Winter varieties are most often grown on personal plots, as they are more productive and less susceptible to diseases and pests. However, over time, the plants age and begin to get sick, and the size of the bulbs decreases. To maintain and increase productivity, bulb sowing is used (garlic does not produce real seeds in our conditions). The shape of the aerial bulbs, their number, and color depend on the variety. The bulbs are small and there are a large number of them (up to 450 in an inflorescence), in varieties with large and tall peduncles. The bulbs are large (up to 30 pieces in an inflorescence), rounded or flat-rounded in varieties with low shoots.

When planting southern varieties, weakened arrows with 3-7 large elongated bulbs may form. The size of the bulbs is not related to the size of the bulbs. Small-bulb varieties may have a very large bulb, while large-bulb varieties may have a medium-sized bulb.

You shouldn’t delay planting garlic.

Planting winter garlic cloves

This method allows you to get full-fledged bulbs as early as July next year. When planted with aerial bulbs, the harvest is obtained in two years. When planting with cloves, a significant part of the harvested crop is spent on planting; there is a possibility that the plantings will be affected by diseases (bacteriosis, rot, etc.). Winters in the Urals are harsh and there is a high probability of freezing. In this case, the seedlings will be uneven, the leaves on the remaining plants will begin to turn yellow early and part of the harvest will be lost during storage. The infection will spread to healthy teeth.

Planting with aerial bulbs is a longer process, but diseases are not transmitted to each other and it is quite easy to obtain healthy material. Basic rules when planting with cloves:

1. Choose healthy bulbs for planting that have large cloves; at the genetic level, they contain the formation of equally large and large cloves. Do not use internal teeth. Plant winter garlic 3-4 weeks before the onset of sustained frost. In the Middle Urals this is the period from the third ten days of September to the second ten days of October. In the Southern Urals, the optimal time for planting this crop is from October 5 to October 10.
2. Renew garlic regularly (once every 4-6 years). You can update it by purchasing certified raw materials from fruit and vegetable farms. You can renew it yourself by growing it from aerial bulbs. Do not remove a few flower shoots from the garlic. Collect aerial bulbs, dry them and sow them in the ground in early March. In July, heads (single teeth) will form from them. In October, plant the single cloves in the ground in order to harvest a full harvest of renewed garlic in July next year.
3. When planting, rows of garlic should be spaced 30-35 cm apart.
4. You can determine the maturity and readiness of garlic by the flower stalks, so leave 2-3 arrows on the beds, destroy the rest at the very beginning. Once the seed pods begin to open, the garlic is ready for harvesting.
5. The depth of planting garlic is 13-18 cm. At this depth of soil, the most favorable conditions are created for rooting and formation of bulbs.
6. Don't forget about mulch (straw, sawdust or other organic materials). In spring, add a new layer of mulch to one layer. A layer of mulch will prevent the soil from freezing and the garlic will not freeze, and moisture will be retained in the soil to nourish it.
7. Check the quality of the soil in which you plan to plant garlic. It loves fertile, moist but not wet soil and sunny areas.
8. Do not forget about feeding garlic with mineral fertilizers. Apply a fresh layer of mulch regularly between rows. In case of early wilting or when the garlic leaves begin to turn yellow at the end of May or early summer, feed it with bio-infusion at the rate of 1 part of the infusion and 3 liters of water.
9. Garlic and strawberries go well together. If there is not enough space in your summer cottage, plant garlic between the strawberry bushes.

Planting with aerial bulbs is a longer process, but diseases are not transmitted to each other

Planting with aerial bulbs

1. All formed and mature bulbs can be planted in the ground. They ripen on flower shoots left on the largest and strongest plants. At the beginning of growth, the arrows are curled like a spiral and straighten as they grow.
2. After the arrows straighten and the bulbs are formed and the cover on them bursts, collect them in small bouquets and hang them to dry for 2-3 weeks. After the stem dries, separate the bulbs from the stem, being careful not to damage their covers.
3. You can plant bulbs in the spring, or you can plant them in the fall; each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is not always possible to keep the bulbs in perfect condition for spring planting; many of them manage to dry out before spring. Therefore, when planting for the winter, favorable conditions are created in the soil for rooting and germination of bulbs in the spring.
4. Before planting, small bulbs are soaked in water for 24 hours, changing the water 3-4 times. Unripe onions will float and should be thrown away.
5. It is recommended to plant bulbs in the ground at a distance of 3-5 cm from each other in a row, to a depth of 2-3 cm and a distance between rows of 15-20 cm.
6. Just like cloves planted for the winter, beds with bulblets are mulched with a layer of humus, covered, if necessary, with film or any other covering material and additionally covered with spruce branches on top. Mulching helps protect plantings from freezing over the winter. Without taking these protective measures, bulbs planted for the winter freeze almost completely in the climatic conditions of the Urals.

Plantings of spring garlic are increasingly expanding their borders and have moved from the central part to the Urals, where they have deservedly been given a place of honor in every garden, since they last longer, have more cloves, and ripen faster. But as seed material you have to use bulbs, which are obtained from winter varieties of garlic.

Planting spring garlic bulbs

Some gardeners recommend growing garlic in the Urals in two layers. Make a hole in the soil to a depth of 20 cm, plant a clove of garlic there, sprinkle with humus and plant another clove at a depth of 10 cm. In the same place you can get two full heads of garlic; they will develop normally, since they are located at different depths. This planting allows you to get from 1 sq. meter the yield is twice as large.

For information

Spring garlic consists of several rows of cloves (2-3). The denticles are 2-3 mm in diameter and covered with internal glossy scales. Spring vegetable heads can be stored for up to one and a half years. The winter variety has 5-8 large cloves arranged in one row around the main stem.

Winter garlic bolts, releasing a flower arrow in June and differs from spring garlic in a richer and more diverse set of useful substances.

Bioinfusion for feeding garlic

Preparation: pour 1 kg of nettle with 20 liters of water and after 4-5 days the nutritional infusion is ready. Dilute the infusion in a ratio of 1:3 and feed the plants. This fertilizer strengthens plants and improves soil structure.

Ripening time for garlic in the Urals

Due to the climate, winter garlic in the Urals ripens at the end of July, and the ripening period for spring garlic is late August - early September. To determine the size of the bulbs, it is important what the weather will be like in the summer: if the summer season is dry, the bulbs and cloves will be small. In the event of a rainy summer, there is a high probability that the vegetable will rot.

The growing season of winter garlic is 100-110 days from the moment the first sprouts appear in the beds, spring garlic - 115-135 days.

In addition to the general rules, you should know the characteristics of the variety and their application in relation to a particular area. The Alcor variety has a growing season of 94 days, it is resistant to fungal diseases and is not susceptible to the yellow dwarf virus.

Another variety of winter garlic, “Novosibirsky,” grows and bears fruit well in the Ural climate; its growing season is only 85 days.

Garlic variety "Novosibirsk" grows well and bears fruit

But you should not rely entirely on book information, these are average data. It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the plantings and take timely measures, if necessary: ​​fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, combating suspected disease.

Garlic maturity

1. 15-20 weeks before harvesting, you should stop watering the garlic to protect the heads from damage by fungal diseases and rot. Remove the flower shoots and tie the aerial part of the garlic into a knot. This helps to increase the mass of the bulb by directing all the nutrients for its formation.
2. Gently rake the soil around the bulb head. The husk should be dense and peel off well.
3. The neck of the false garlic stalk should be soft, the stem and leaves should be yellow.
4. The cover of the air bulbs should be cracked.

Winter garlic suitable for growing in the Urals

Among the hybrid varieties of garlic grown in the Urals, it is worth paying special attention to:

Skif is a mid-season winter variety. Scales with purple veins. The bulbs are small and strong. The pulp is sharp in taste and dense. Increased resistance to bacteriosis and white rot.

Bashkirsky 85 is a winter variety with a short growing season (85-90 days). Bulbs with white husk. The bulbs are bright purple. The variety is resistant to blight, bacterial rot, and onion fly.

Gradekovsky - winter, early. The growing season is 81-86 days. The bulbs are small, 5-6 cloves, with white-lilac husks. The pulp is dense, with a sharp pungent taste and a lilac tint. The bulbs are dark lilac in color and oval in shape.

Sofievsky - high-yielding and frost-resistant. The pulp is dense with a medium pungent taste. The scales are white with a purple tint. Resistant to fungal diseases. Requires direct access to sunlight.

Garlic variety Sofievsky - high-yielding and frost-resistant

Dobrynya is a mid-season variety. Responsive to timely watering and weeding. Stores well and is resistant to fungal diseases. In the climatic conditions of the Urals, it is stored without loss of external and quality characteristics for six months.

Lyubasha is a winter variety that is resistant to drought and frost. Can be stored (9-10 months) without loss of taste.

Harvesting

When growing garlic in the Urals, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the chosen variety, follow the rules, established dates for planting, care, watering, weeding, and climatic conditions. Taking into account all the nuances, you can get a good yield of garlic per acre in the Ural climate.

Both spring and winter garlic, if harvested later than expected, will be stored worse. Its safety and shelf life depend on timely cleaning.

Rules for removing bulbs from the ground

1. Cleaning should be done in dry weather, preferably in the evening or in the morning, when there is no scorching sun, and when the bag containing the bulbs begins to burst on the left flower arrows.
2. Carefully pry up the garlic heads with a pitchfork so as not to damage the peel and cause disease on the bulbs.
3. Place the bulbs dug out of the ground in a sunny place and dry well (4-5 days).
4. Carefully clean the bulbs of dirt and stuck soil. Tie into bundles, being careful not to damage the roots, and leave for further storage.

Some recommend rinsing freshly dug garlic from the soil in cool water. Let it drain and hang them up to dry. After this, cut off the roots and stems. Leave the garlic hanging for another 7-10 days for further drying.

Single cloves grown from bulblets are harvested when the leaves turn yellow, later than the harvest obtained from cloves (mid-August). You cannot be late with harvesting, as then the one-toothed plants will begin to take root again and will be difficult to find in the soil.

Single-toothed ones are selected by hand so as not to damage the fragile planting material, then dried in the sun for 2-4 days, then dried in a well-ventilated area, tied in bunches or laid out on a wire rack.

After the garlic dries, you need to cut off the roots and stems.

At the end of September, single cloves are planted in the ground and excellent large bulbs of aromatic garlic are collected in July.

How to store garlic

The roots of a plant dried in the sun are cut off, leaving 1-2 cm. The stem is shortened to 10-12 cm. Bunches of 8-15 pieces are formed from the dried vegetable, depending on the size of the bulbs, or braided. The larger the onion, the longer it will retain its beneficial properties.

When the bulbs are well dried in a suspended state, place them in a cool place, basement or refrigerator and store at temperature (0-5 degrees). With this storage method, the air humidity in the room is important; if it is more than 70%, the bulbs will rot.

Vegetables are also stored in wooden boxes with perforations in the side walls.

1. Make or select a wooden box (possibly a parcel box) that is the right size for you.
2. Drill holes in the side walls.
3. Sprinkle a layer of salt (2-3 cm) on the bottom and place a layer of garlic heads.
4. Alternate layers of salt and onions.
5. Alternative for salt: wood ash or sawdust.

Garlic bulbs can be stored in linen or paper bags, in a suspended state, ensuring access to fresh air and a room temperature of 1-5 degrees Celsius.

Garlic heads left for storage should be periodically checked, removing those damaged by disease and dried out. It must be remembered that temperature fluctuations have a negative impact on the safety of the crop and its timing.

Folk signs and planting garlic in the Urals

The people of Rus' have always been distinguished by their special observation and wisdom. Our ancestors have long noticed that winter garlic is planted:

1. When birds gather in flocks and fly away to distant lands.
2. When your hands get cold outside and put on mittens.
3. It is impossible to walk on the damp ground with bare feet: it is cold.
4. Winter garlic is planted before the onset of Intercession (October 14). On this day, autumn and winter meet.

This is important for farmers and summer residents to know: when to plant winter garlic - at what time, at what distance, to what depth. How to determine the exact time of planting, subtleties, nuances - agronomists advise, experienced farmers recommend.

When to plant garlic in the fall:

It takes 34-40 days for the root system to form 12 to 18 roots 5-10 cm long. The timing of planting winter garlic is 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost: the cloves should have time to take root, but not germinate.

The timing of planting garlic depends on three factors:

• ground temperature +10…+7 °C;
• absence of night frosts with a temperature not lower than -10 °C;
• the soil should not be too wet so that it is possible to plant garlic both manually at the dacha and in the field using mechanized equipment.

Late planting of garlic at the end of October-beginning of November, adjusted for the region, is fraught with low germination: cloves that do not have time to take root die.

Advice! Winter garlic that is not planted in the fall can be planted in the spring.

Depending on the variety, when sown in spring, the cloves will form an onion that is not differentiated into cloves - the so-called. one-toothed onion. Cold storage at -5...+5 °C and early planting will give you a greater chance of getting an onion divided into cloves.

Preparing the soil for planting winter garlic using the wide-row method.

Estimated dates depend on the region. Winter garlic in the Moscow region is planted from September 15-20 to the first ten days of October, in the Kostroma region - until mid-October inclusive, in the Southern Urals - until October 5-10. Given climate change and a warmer autumn, the timing may shift. If you ask the older generation, they will answer clearly: the Intercession has not yet arrived, marking the arrival of winter - October 14th.

On a personal plot, a planting scheme between rows is possible: from 45-40 to 30-35 cm. In comparison with commercial areas, it is possible to reduce the distance between rows by increasing the distance in the row: 25 cm x 12 cm, 30 x 10 cm.

Agronomists advise when to plant garlic before winter and how.

The planting scheme for winter shooting garlic with different clove weights for large areas is as follows:

• for large cloves weighing 6-9 g – 45 cm × 70-10 cm with a feeding area of ​​35-45 cm2;
• for medium ones weighing 5-7 g – 45 cm × 7 cm with a feeding area of ​​300-320 cm2;
• for small ones 2-3 g – 45 x 5 (up to 220 cm2 per plant);
• for very small ones up to 1.5 g 45 cm × 3 cm (up to 140 cm2).

Why all these numbers? To determine the required number of cloves in terms of weight per unit area.

So, when planting medium-sized cloves with a feeding area of ​​320 cm2: divide 10,000 m2 by 0.0320 m2 and get 312,500 pieces.

To determine the mass of garlic per 1 hectare: multiply the average weight by the quantity: 312500 × 4-5 g = 1406 kg per hectare. The sowing rate for large cloves can be up to 2000 kg/ha.

Important! Taking into account the scales, bottom and part of the arrows, the amount of garlic per 1 ha is increased by 5-7%.

The optimal planting scheme for industrial areas and farm plantings will be a two-row strip planting scheme - 45 cm between rows (double rows) and 20 cm between double rows, as well as a wide-row method - with a row spacing of 40-45 cm.

The planting density with the first method will be about 380,000, with the second - about 270,000 plants per 1 hectare.

For mechanized care and cleaning in industrial areas, a four-row planting pattern is also practiced (with a width of the main row of 54 cm, and 27 cm of four narrow rows). Row planting of winter garlic will give good results - with row spacing of 30-40 cm.

The feeding area of ​​one plant is from 80-100 to 360 cm2, depending on the variety, clove size, agricultural technology, soil and climatic conditions.

Row distance

The distance in the row depends on the size of the clove. Thus, winter garlic is usually larger than spring garlic (up to 2-3 g), and requires a larger distance: from 6-10 to 12 cm. With the wide-row method (45 × 7), the optimal feeding area will be up to 320 cm2.

Two-row planting scheme for winter garlic.

Important! An increase in planting density leads to a decrease in the gross harvest, while improving the quality of the product due to a larger number of large-sized bulbs.

At the same time, the norm for sowing aerial seeds (bulbs) of garlic per 1 linear m of row is 55-60 bulbs with a weight norm of about 50 kg/ha, depending on the caliber.

Planting depth

There are many opinions at what depth to plant garlic. The correct answer is that the depth depends on the size.

Winter garlic is sown to a depth of 7-8 cm and up to 10-12 cm, depending on the size of the bulbs: medium specimens are buried at 7-8 cm, large specimens at 10-12 cm, small specimens at 3-5 cm. The soil layer above the teeth should not be less than 3-4 cm.

Important! On light sandy loam soils, plant at a greater depth due to faster freezing of soils with a light mechanical composition. At the same time, a decrease in temperature to -12...-14 °C in the bottom area can become critical and lead to freezing.

Harvesting winter garlic.

Proper fit is a broad question. It is worth noting several nuances and bad advice.

About soaking. Before planting, the cloves are soaked in a foundation solution, immersing for 2-3 minutes. Classic potassium permanganate can cause burns in high concentrations, and foundationazole is more effective.

A little sand. When the agricultural background is low, it is recommended to sprinkle the bottom of the planting rows with sand so that the bottom does not come into contact with the ground in order to avoid root rot, etc.

Position. For better rooting, the cloves must occupy a strictly vertical position, which is not always possible with mechanized planting: the cloves are placed at an angle, which affects productivity - it reduces it by 10-15%.

Do not loosen the soil. The most common anti-advice is loosening before planting. The bottom should lie on a compacted bed: loose soil will not form a tight-fitting earthen lump and will slow down germination.

Excessively loose soil on industrial plantings is rolled up; on light soils, rolling is practiced. Gardeners simply mulch, raking a mound of earth on top.

About mulching. Do not mulch your plantings with peat or tyrsa: these are heavy, moisture-intensive materials, and in the spring they make it difficult to warm up the soil.
About fertilizer. Adding organic matter before planting has a negative impact on germination and the phytosanitary quality of the product, causing green mass to grow to the detriment of the bulb.

Let’s hope that simple advice – when to plant garlic, where and how – will be useful, and that unhelpful advice will not be used. Have a generous harvest!

04.09.2017 31 354