How to cover a staircase from the back side. Covering stairs with wood: main stages. Top mounting and rear side. In what cases might you need to sheathe an iron staircase with wood?

The staircase must not only guarantee safe movement in the interfloor space, but also fit into the design of the room. In addition, the metal structure itself needs additional protection, which would prevent premature wear of the equipment and relieve the owners from the need to constantly repair the structure.

Covering a metal staircase with wood will allow you to solve the entire range of problems at once, making the structure more wear-resistant and acquiring a more attractive appearance. This article will discuss various options for finishing metal structures, among which everyone can choose the best option for themselves.

Guidelines for choosing cladding

The cladding of metal stair structures is a decorative design of the frame. But at the same time, it is desirable to use materials that would significantly improve the technical characteristics of the equipment. Also an important argument in favor of a suitable type of wood is the possibility of doing the work yourself. And only after a thorough analysis of all the pros and cons can you make the right choice in favor of the best material.

In addition, the balance may tip towards certain types of wood when assessing the following equipment parameters:

metal staircase shape;
user population;
soundproofing characteristics of wood.

Moreover, the choice of material for cladding largely depends on where the metal structure is located: in the living room or utility area. After all, the aesthetic characteristics of different types of wood are not the same. Some of them have a more presentable appearance, but are more expensive, others are not so attractive, but their price is significantly lower.

Features of the combined product

Covering the metal frame of a staircase with wood is one of the most successful solutions when decorating an interior. Wood has always been and will remain the personification of comfort, because it can suit almost any type of room design. In addition, this material is easy to process, thanks to which metal structures can take on new, more elegant forms.

An ordinary metal staircase does not look very attractive and, when used in a private home, can be a place of increased risk of injury. Therefore, finishing equipment is simply necessary if you want to improve the aesthetic performance of the product and protect yourself and your household from injury.

Covering an iron staircase with wood can be either partial or complete. In this case, the base for the wooden steps can be fixed either on bowstrings or on crocuses.

Subtleties of design

Before you begin covering a metal structure, you need to clearly imagine the future appearance of the product. And in order to correctly transfer ideas to the real plane, you should adhere to the following rules:

Create a layout of the future staircase, choosing the type of cladding (partial or complete);
Determine the required amount of facing material and type of wood;
The distance between the balusters should not exceed 20 cm if the product is used by small children;
Decide on the cross-sectional size of the future railings (they should not look bulky).

What type of material should I choose?

Finishing a metal staircase is a responsible and difficult task. And the first difficulties arise during the selection of suitable wood for cladding. Depending on your budget and a specific design project, you can choose the following natural solids for cladding a metal structure with wood:

Beech. The density is practically the same as oak, therefore it is a fairly reliable and low-elastic type of wood. Rather suitable for covering stairs in front rooms and guest rooms, due to its excellent aesthetic qualities;
Oak. One of the most noble and durable types of natural solids. Moreover, its technical parameters directly depend on the place of growth. It has a beautiful rich color and a non-standard cut pattern;

Ash. Quite elastic material with a well-defined texture. It is durable and has excellent wear resistance;
Hornbeam. If properly dried, the wood can become much harder than beech or oak. At the same time, the material is quite pliable, so it is easy to work with;
Coniferous tracts. Wood paneling of a metal staircase from below is done mainly with coniferous species, since they are cheaper than others. At the same time, pine or cedar do not have good technical performance, so the material is used in places where high performance qualities are not required;
Exotic arrays. Very durable and beautiful materials with intricate patterns on the cuts. Wenge, abache or teak are most often used for covering metal stairs.

The photo shows samples of various types of natural materials, thanks to which you can evaluate the aesthetic qualities of each.

Sheathing process for metal structures

Cladding a staircase with wood with your own hands does not require any specific skills, so this process can be easily handled if you follow all the recommendations:

The first step is to secure all the wooden parts to the metal stairs. To do this, they are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver;
In the upper part of the frame it is necessary to install a tread made of wood, after which the riser is mounted;
In a similar way, similar elements are fixed on the remaining steps;
To increase the safety of movement on the stairs, it is advisable to chamfer all wooden elements installed on the steps;
Then balusters are installed, which are secured with pins;
In the same way, it is necessary to veneer other parts of the metal structure;
At the final stage of the work, the wood should be treated with an antiseptic, then covered with stain and varnished.

Obviously, finishing products with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is to correctly determine the dimensions of all parts and securely attach them to the metal frame. You can watch the video in more detail about the process of cladding the stairs.

Conclusion

Wood is a noble and durable material that is ideal for finishing products in the home. Thanks to the excellent aesthetic qualities of wood, your staircase will be transformed, becoming one of the most attractive and elegant elements of the interior. You can easily cladding metal structures with your own hands; the only thing worth paying attention to is the type of wood, the amount of building materials needed, and the size of the parts for cladding.

Usually, the cladding takes place with parts that have already been sanded and treated with varnish or paint, but in the case of self-assembly of the elements, no one forbids you to carry out all the paint and varnish work after finishing the staircase frame.

With the help of metal doors, people have learned to protect themselves from thieves. But it turns out that these reliable doors themselves are stolen. They steal heat from apartments. Through the cracks between the door and the jamb, as much heat escapes as would come out through a quarter of your window. Plus, a metal door, unlike wood, is itself a very good conductor of heat. The solution to the problem is simple and long known - interior upholstery.

We cover the metal entrance door.

To upholster and sheathe a metal door you will need:

plywood;
epoxy adhesive;
a strip of leatherette 10 cm wide and the length of the entire door;
construction stapler;
scissors;
foam rubber 2 cm thick and 10 cm wider than the door leaf;
batting.

Upholstering a metal door is a little more complicated than a wooden one. After all, the sheathing material must be secured with nails. You won't be able to drive nails into metal. So from the very beginning, take pieces of plywood and glue them to the door. It is advisable to cover the entire surface with plywood. Use epoxy glue.
After pasting, leave the door alone for about a day. You don't have to worry about the beauty of the plywood covering. When all the work is done, the plywood will not be visible.
Once the plywood is glued, work on the upholstery itself. The gap between the jamb and the door leaf must be closed with a roller. This is the main element of the upholstery.
Make a blank for the roller. First, take a strip of leatherette 10 cm wide and the length of the entire door. Fold it with the wrong side inward and nail it to the door with small nails every 10-15 cm or secure it with a construction stapler. To prevent leatherette from puffing up, cut it with scissors next to the door hinges.
When the roller blank is ready, secure the padding. Use foam rubber 2 cm thick and 10 cm wider than the door leaf. Place two layers of batting on top of the foam rubber. Nail it along the entire plane too. Now it's time to apply leatherette.
Leatherette needs to be cut with a small margin, 3cm on all sides. Start nailing from the center. First from above, then from below. During installation, the leatherette material must be pulled as tightly as possible. When you grab the leatherette fabric from above and below, a fold should appear. This indicates that you have tensioned the material correctly. The upholstery is then secured with simple furniture nails around the entire perimeter.
Your roller should be filled with batting. Take the remaining batting and roll it into a tube. Place a tube of batting around the perimeter of the door and wrap it in a blank for the roller. Immediately nail the edge of the workpiece to the door.
The roller is ready. You can start attaching the door handle and door peephole. That's all, now it will be easier to upholster or sheathe a metal door, knowing how.

Sooner or later, any apartment owner comes to the conclusion that insulating the front door is a necessity. Covering a door with leatherette with your own hands will help solve several important problems - its thermal and sound insulation and decorative design.

The conclusion that the door should be insulated is usually realized in the cold season, when a draft begins to blow through seemingly very small cracks. But is it worth waiting for winter? Isn't it better to carry out such work in advance?

When solving the issue of transforming a door leaf, you can turn to the simplest method of covering - evenly stretching leatherette, or you can use more complex options when several pieces of material are used.

In any case, all the nuances need to be thought out in advance and the necessary tools and materials for the work must be prepared.

Preparing for door trim

To ensure that nothing distracts the master directly during the work process, you need to do the following in advance:

1. Prepare a sketch of the future cladding, if it has any design. This may be a carefully verified drawing or, in case of emergency, even an ordinary pencil sketch.

2. Based on the drawn drawing, you can make a list of the necessary materials that will be needed for the work:

Leatherette or artificial leather can be purchased in specialized stores, where a large selection of this material is available. There you can choose it not only by thickness, but also by color and textured pattern on the surface. The standard width of leatherette is 1100 ÷ 1400 mm - it is just suitable for a door leaf in an apartment. Add 200 ÷ 250 mm to the length of the door leaf.

If a door is being sheathed in a private house, which has two leaves, then to the dimensions obtained when measuring, you need to add 100 ÷ 150 mm, both in length and in width of the material.

Leatherette will also be needed to make the rollers framing the door leaf. They are strips of material that have a length equal to the height of the door and a width of 130 ÷ 170 mm. You will need three of these elements.

If the door leaf is sheathed with separate elements of leatherette, then more of it will be needed. When calculating the material in this case, it is necessary to take into account its inward bending on each individual element by 50 ÷ 100 mm on all sides.

Another option for covering with a pattern would be to remove it with separate strips of leatherette. Their number is calculated depending on the chosen decorative design.

Insulating material will help achieve thermal and sound insulation.

Sheet foam rubber is well suited for insulation and sound insulation.

For these purposes, use thick padding polyester, felt or foam rubber. The material must have a thickness of at least 10 ÷ 25 mm, depending on its density and the expected volume (relief) of the pattern, which will be created using constrictions or decorative nails.

If it will be insulated, then you need to purchase foam sheets of the required thickness.

In the case where you plan to use nails covered with leatherette or artificial leather for decoration, you should choose the color of their heads so that the whole composition looks harmonious.

The sheathing will look more presentable if the nail heads are large enough and the same color as the entire sheathing fabric.

Another option would be nails with metal heads that match the color and texture of the material of the handles and locks.

To finish a metal door you will need glue, since leatherette and a thin layer of insulation will be glued to its front side. Universal “Moment” or “88” glue is well suited for this purpose.
To make sealing rollers, it is best to purchase ready-made round insulation with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm. It is sold by the meter in hardware stores. This material will give the roller a neat, uniform, round shape.

3. To work, you also need to prepare some tools:

A small hammer for driving nails.
A stapler with staples for fixing material to the surface before driving decorative nails. The optimal size of staples is 8 ÷ 10 mm.
Scissors and a construction knife for cutting out and trimming materials.
To dismantle locks and handles and then install them back in their original place, you will need a screwdriver or screwdriver with different attachments (bits).
It would be a good idea to have pliers and a nail puller on hand; they can be useful for removing old trim and removing nails that have not entered the door leaf incorrectly.

4. Having purchased all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin preparatory work.

First, you need to remove from the door everything installed on it. elements - locks, handles and viewing eye.
If you are going to trim a door that already has old finishing material, it must be removed. The nailed material can be bent using a nail puller, separating the leatherette from the surface, and then, using the tool to hook the nails, carefully remove the canvas completely.

If the insulation is not glued to the door, the old trim will come off easily. The thin layer of material remaining on the surface does not accommodate the new finish.

Next, some craftsmen remove the door from its hinges and, for the convenience of further work, place it on several chairs or on a fairly large table. Before removing the door from its hinges, you must make lines on the door leaf along the contour of the door frame.
In most cases, the sheathing is carried out in a vertical position, without removing it from its hinges.

The process of covering a door with leatherette

As you know, a door is usually sheathed on both sides - external and internal; there are some differences in these processes that you need to know about when starting work. In addition, there is a significant difference in the finishing technology of wooden and metal doors.

And, of course, there are different ones that also need to be considered before starting work.

Lining the inside of a wooden door

When starting work, you need to immediately pay attention to where the door opens - towards the entrance or into the apartment, since the location and size of the rollers will depend on this.

This publication will consider the option when the door opens inside the apartment.

The first step is to install the sealing rollers. They are made from prepared leatherette strips and ready-made foam rollers or strips of other insulating material.

Leatherette is folded in half and a strip of insulation is placed inside. Then, place the roller around the perimeter of the door, so that it protrudes beyond the door leaf by 4 ÷ 7 mm, since it should cover the gap between the jamb of the door frame and the door, which is formed after it is closed. On the hinge side, the roller should completely cover the door jamb. The roller is secured using stapler and staples, starting from the top right corner. From there they go to the upper left corner, then frame the sides with it. It is attached to the lower part last.

The next step is cutting out the insulation. The size of the cut strip should be 8 ÷ 10 mm smaller than the door leaf.

It is also secured with staples to the door plane, leaving 20 ÷ 30 mm free at the edges so that decorative material can be wrapped between the insulation and the door material - leatherette.

Next, you need to correctly place the main leatherette fabric. The main thing is to avoid distortions, otherwise the work will look sloppy.

When installing the main upholstery, it is very important not to make a mistake with the exact direction of the leatherette strip and its even tension

First, the top of the canvas is secured. It is folded under the insulation and nailed with decorative nails, placing them at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from each other.

After the top edge is secured and the direction is once again checked, the left side is nailed, and then the right. As fastening progresses, the material is stretched. The bottom edge of the material is nailed last.

Next, it is very important to accurately mark and cut out the holes for the locks and peephole.
If you want to make a drawing on the surface, you first need to mark it, and then fill in decorative nails along the markings, starting from the center of the canvas. In this case, you need to try not to stretch the leatherette too much so that sagging does not appear.

Video: lesson on lining a wooden door from the inside

Wooden door - external cladding

The door trim that opens into the apartment from the entrance side is done as follows:

Before starting work, you need to close the door and outline the door frame opening on the door leaf. This line will determine the location of the trim on the door leaf. If leatherette is nailed to the entire surface, then both the door and the lock will not close.
The insulation is cut out 10 mm smaller than the outlined area and secured with staples.

Next, tucking it behind the insulation, leatherette is stuffed along the marked line, in the same order as on the inside of the door - first on top, then on the sides. The bottom edge remains free for now - it will be attached later.

In this case, the insulation bead is attached to the outside of the door frame on three sides, but it is not installed on the threshold. This element, when fixed, should cover the cracks, extending 20 ÷ 25 mm onto the door leaf. But the keyhole must be free, and this must be provided for in advance.
The bottom roller should not be made bulky, as it will simply wear off over time and look sloppy.

It is fixed to the bottom of the door itself, and its edge should not extend beyond the marked line by a single millimeter, since the door in this case will not be able to close. When closing the door, this element should fit tightly to the threshold from above, that is, as if located on it.

The lower part of the main leatherette sheet is pulled and nailed onto the roller nailed to the door, or, as shown in the photo, you can hide the bottom edge in the roller being secured.
Next, holes are made in the leatherette covering for door accessories - locks, peepholes and handles. They need to be cut very carefully, without expanding more than necessary.

Video: how to sheathe the outside of a wooden door with leatherette

Metal door - leatherette finish

In recent years, apartments in high-rise buildings are increasingly installing a second metal door in addition to the wooden one. It’s good if you have the opportunity to immediately purchase an insulated one, but very often it consists only of a metal sheet and a frame made of an angle or profile pipe. In this case, the apartment owner picks up the tools and independently brings the door into proper shape.

The inner and outer sides of the metal door leaf also have their own characteristics in their lining.

Inner side of a metal door

If an unsightly metal frame without insulating and decorative materials extends into the room, this can easily be corrected by installing sheets of foam plastic of suitable thickness and covering it all with a decorative panel. The work will require materials slightly different from the lining of a wooden door.

Foam plastic with a thickness equal to the depth of the frame frame.
Polyurethane foam will be needed to seal the seams between the installed foam and the metal frame.
Wooden slats for fastening to the inner sides of the frame - they will be needed as a basis for attaching the decorative panel.
Self-tapping screws and drills for metal - they will be used to drill holes in the corners (profile pipe) for screwing wooden slats to a metal frame.
Decorative nails for fixing leatherette to the surface of plywood.
Wood screws for screwing plywood sheets to wooden slats.
A sheet of plywood, in shape and area equal to the door frame, with a thickness of no more than 10 mm.
Decorative leatherette and a thin sheet of foam rubber, 10 ÷ 15 mm thick.
Glue or double-sided tape to secure the insulation to the plywood.

Work on finishing the inner surface of the door proceeds as follows:

Wooden slats are screwed to the inner ribs of the metal frame. It is first necessary to drill through holes through the slats and metal frame elements.

After fixing the slats, gaps may form between them and the metal sheet, which will become cold bridges, so they are sealed with polyurethane foam. It will also contribute to the rigidity of the slats.

Next, polystyrene foam is installed between the fixed and insulated slats, around which polyurethane foam is also passed. This treatment will also help securely secure the foam in the cells and close the last paths of possible penetration of cold.

On the plywood sheet you need to mark the location of the wooden slats in the frame, since it will have to be screwed to them.
If you need to hide the heads of the screws under the cladding, then the plywood needs to be screwed to its cladding.
First, the sheet is screwed to the middle slats, so that all edges remain free for inserting leatherette behind them.
Foam rubber is attached to the installed plywood with glue, or better yet, with double-sided masking tape.
The leatherette is stretched from above, tucked over the edges of the plywood, and at the corners and along the edges in the middle of the sheet it is screwed through with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed into the plywood. The resulting holes can be carefully sealed with a piece of material, and a nail with a decorative head can be driven in nearby.
Next, the leatherette is stretched and nailed along the entire perimeter. Since nails are quite difficult to drive into plywood, you need to choose durable ones made of high-quality metal that will not bend.
Thus, the decorative panel will be well fixed to the frame.
Then, you need to mark it location lock, cut the leatherette and insulation, and then carefully drill holes in the plywood.

It must be said that instead of plywood and leatherette, you can use laminated lining to decorate the inner surface of the door. It is installed from the bottom and gradually rises to the top, and the sides of the lining are covered with a special corner.

External side of a metal door

When decorating the outside of a metal door, you can use not too thick felt for laying under leatherette, which is glued to the metal surface.

The insulation is cut smaller than the size of the door leaf by 7 ÷ 10 mm, and leatherette is larger than this size by 60 ÷ 80 mm. This extra section will be used to fold the edge to the other side of the sheet.
Polymer glue is applied in strips to the surface of the metal sheet.
Next, insulation is applied to it and pressed. It is necessary to give time for the glue to set and dry.
Leatherette is stretched on top of the insulation, bent over the edges of the metal door panel and glued to the other side. It is best to use quick-drying universal glue for this purpose.

First, the top edge of the material is glued. Next, it is stretched and secured to the side parts of the door. If excess material forms on the folds, it is best to cut it off, otherwise it may interfere with the free closing of the door leaf.

If the finishing material is very dense, and the folds at the corners are too thick, then it is better to cut off some of the leatherette in these places.

If you do all the work slowly, the door will turn out neat and respectable.

Finally, the door frames are installed and screwed onto the door. accessories - locks with handles and a peephole, if provided for installation.

Video: finishing a metal door with leatherette

"Carriage" trim

“Carriage” lining or screed is quite popular, as the door after it looks aesthetically pleasing and respectable. However, not every apartment owner can afford this, since the work to complete it is quite painstaking and requires skill.

The “carriage” trim looks very impressive

This covering is made in two different ways - from solid material or from pre-cut pieces of leatherette. Both methods are risky, since in both the first and second options the material may be damaged and the door may not be sheathed if there is no experience in performing such “filigree” work.

...however, not everyone can do such complex work.

Therefore, for starters, you can practice and sheathe the surface of a stool in this way, for example. Any fabric can be used for training.

In order for all the work to be successful, a number of preparatory measures need to be carried out. It is very important not to neglect careful marking - only in this case will geometrically even shapes of squares or rhombuses be obtained.

To mark, you need to take a sheet of thin plywood, the same size as the door leaf. It needs to be drawn into even squares or rectangles.
At the intersections of straight lines, round holes are marked and then drilled so that their corners form rhombuses or squares.
The plywood is placed on a foam mat and through the holes on it the places where decorative nails will be driven are marked.

Preliminary marking for “carriage” upholstery

Next, the marked foam rubber is transferred to a wooden base. If it is too thick, round holes may be cut into it for driving nails.
They go around the holes or drawn circles with a stapler, nailing the insulation to the base and marking the recesses.
The leatherette is drawn from the wrong side into even squares, which should be 8 ÷ 10 mm larger on each side than the figures drawn on the foam rubber. These extra millimeters are needed to bend the edges of the material when nailing it.
Then, the material is cut into marked fragments, and you can begin to attach it to the door leaf.
The pieces are placed on the foam rubber according to the markings and nailed. You can first mark them with a stapler and then nail them with decorative nails.

Each fragment is laid and fastened separately - extreme care is required

You need to make sure that the pieces of leatherette overlap each other in one direction, otherwise the harmony of the pattern will be disrupted.
Without the proper experience, the work will seem quite complicated and long, however, if you are patient, you can gradually complete it successfully.

It is much more difficult to remove a carriage pattern from a solid canvas, since it is very difficult to accurately measure and grab identical strips that will serve as a foam tie between the nails.

Prices for different types of door trim kits

Door trim kit

Video: one of the options for “carriage” door trim with leatherette

There are other ways of upholstering a door using thin strips of leatherette or fishing line, but in order to achieve the desired success, first in all cases it is necessary to carefully mark the door leaf.

If this work is done independently, then not only will you gain experience and skill in performing it, but you will also save a significant amount. Therefore, if you want to try yourself in this unique art of wallpaper, then it’s worth taking a risk by training first on small surfaces.

TOP 12 best manufacturers of entrance doors

	Name	Rating
The best budget entrance doors
#1	Became	⭐ 100 / 100
#2	Neman	⭐ 99 / 100
#3	Outpost	⭐ 98 / 100
#4	Bravo	⭐ 97 / 100
#5	Groff	⭐ 96 / 100
The best luxury entrance doors
#1	Torex	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Elbor	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Dierre	⭐ 97 / 100
#4	Fortus	⭐ 96 / 100
#5	Legrand	⭐ 95 / 100
#6	Bastion	⭐ 94 / 100
#7	Guardian	⭐ 93 / 100

Became

Entrance doors under the Steel brand perfectly combine affordability and excellent quality. The manufacturer managed to achieve balance in different parameters due to a complex design that ensures high strength. Reinforced doors with armored inserts are made to order. To prevent unauthorized opening, system protection is provided. The Steel model range is constantly updated. The buyer can choose powder-coated doors with wood, veneer or laminated panels. The catalog contains both classic design models and exclusive design developments.

a wide range of;
value for money.

budget doors are weak.

Outpost

In order to successfully compete in the domestic market, the Russian company Forpost had to launch door production in China. Since 2009, products have become in great demand among Russians, and sales volumes have reached 500,000 doors per year. In general, ordinary users are also satisfied with the product. They note good build quality, a rich model range, and a developed service network. The doors are not without some shortcomings. The most unpleasant of them is the appearance of low-quality fakes on the market.

affordable price for prestigious models;
wide service network;
rich model range.

counterfeit products appeared;
poor sound insulation in budget models;
Only original fittings are suitable.

Bravo

Today the manufacturer boasts a model range of 350 units. Here the buyer has plenty to choose from. The catalog contains the most modern types of doors, from veneered models to 3D-Graf finishing. The doors also differ in design; the range includes sliding, folding and special models. Door leaves under brands such as Bravo, Bravo Lux, Groff and Belarusian Doors are also widely represented on the market. All products are made from environmentally friendly materials and meet stringent international standards.

wide range of products;
affordable price;
a wide variety of designs and finishes.

thin metal;
poor sound insulation.

Entrance door Bravo

Groff

Groff entrance doors are produced by the domestic manufacturer "Bravo". They are a premium line. To make the canvases, thick steel and fire-resistant Knauf mineral wool are used as insulation. Structurally, the doors are reinforced with stiffening ribs and equipped with reliable locks. As a result, the product corresponds to the fourth class of burglary resistance. Entrance doors in this series are not only strong and durable. They have exceptionally high aesthetic properties. For finishing, the manufacturer used a wide range of decorative panels.

massiveness and good quality;
good heat and sound insulation;
anti-removal pins.

become warped after six months of use;
high price.

Entrance door Groff

Torex

Torex entrance doors are manufactured in accordance with the most advanced practices. Today the company boasts a wide distribution network throughout the CIS. Production facilities are currently fully loaded, and the annual production of doors has reached 10 thousand units. The manufacturer does not stop there; new developments appear on the market with enviable consistency. It is possible to ensure maximum strength and reliability of the products through the use of two steel sheets. The role of the base is played by a one-piece bent profile 2 mm thick. Designers from Italy often take part in the design of doors.

no models available.

Dierre

The Italian door manufacturer Dierre does not need any special introduction. The products of this company are known in different countries of the world, as evidenced by annual sales of 200 thousand products. Production facilities have been created in Russia to supply the domestic market with products bearing the Dierre trademark. The company independently develops new designs, introducing the latest advances in the field of locking. Thus, “smart” entrance doors are equipped with a remote control system; the role of the key is played by a chip with 128-bit encryption. The distinguishing feature of the Italians is their solid design. Unique fittings are also made to match the chosen style.

innovative approach;
unique design;
a large assortment.

no choice of fittings;
high price.

Fortus

Fortus door blocks compare favorably with their competitors in their design. They resemble the famous Lego toy, allowing the buyer to assemble the appropriate model themselves. You can choose from the type of door (single or double leaf, combined), fittings, and locking mechanism. The consumer determines the number of locks, the degree of secrecy, the color of the canvas, the shape of the handles, and the method of finishing. Thanks to Fortus' extensive catalogue, the total number of variants reaches four figures. The manufacturer meets its customers halfway by producing entrance doors of non-standard sizes in accordance with the proposed project. When creating door blocks, only high-quality materials are used, as well as reliable locks from Cisa, Esety, Mul-T-Lock and Mottura.

high-quality assembly;
Any idea can be realized;
smooth ride.

no choice of fittings.

Legrand

The original quality of finishing of Legrand entrance doors was to the taste of domestic consumers. The manufacturer used MDF panels as finishing materials, which are processed on modern CNC machines. To increase service life, a polymer coating is used that protects the canvas from atmospheric influences. A wide range of colors adds variety to the model range. Some collections are finished with natural wood, which gives the doors aristocracy and exclusivity. Buyers are given a wide choice, from basic equipment to modified equipment. For easy movement, the door hinges are equipped with bearings.

original finish;
diverse model range;
hinges on bearings.

unreliable corrosion protection;
poor sound insulation.

Bastion

One of the flagships in the field of entrance door production is the Bastion brand. The product is made according to a standard scheme; first, a frame is formed from a square-section metal profile. Then steel sheets are welded to it. The void is filled with basalt wool, which, in addition to good insulating properties, has fire resistance. When choosing a model, the buyer is given the opportunity to independently determine the type of anti-burglary system and anti-removal hinges. The finish can also be changed according to client requests. Glass or wooden elements, as well as forged inserts, can decorate the door.

high build quality;
wide range in different price segments;
beautiful finish.

unreliable fittings;
not the most efficient service.

Designers very widely use a method in which a combination of metal parts and wood is used as a basis. This also affected the stairs. To make the structure durable, a metal frame is made; beauty and aesthetics are achieved by decorating the surfaces with wooden elements. To answer the question of how to cover a metal staircase with wood, it is necessary to study the properties of the materials used for finishing and their technical characteristics. It is necessary to understand why metal and wood have the best combination and how harmony is achieved.

The metal frame of the staircase is very reliable and durable, and the wooden paneling adds aesthetic function.

Before covering a metal staircase, you first need to select the appropriate design. There are several ways to answer the question: how to sheathe a metal staircase? You can decorate the frame of a staircase with wood in different ways. You can make a staircase with steps and decorate it with railings finished in wood.

Nuances of universal designs

Natural wood has always created comfort and coziness in the house. We can safely say that wood harmoniously combines with any interior, however, the frame of a wooden staircase does not have much strength, it is short-lived. Using a metal staircase frame as a supporting structure will be much stronger and more durable. Such a ladder can withstand a lot of pressure and can have a variety of shapes.

Metal stairs look very impressive, but if they do not have cladding, they look unaesthetic. Moreover, cladding helps reduce injuries in residential buildings.

Upon closer examination and study of facing materials, the conclusion suggests itself: to cover a metal frame, you need to use good wood.

The staircase frame is made mainly from light metals with high strength properties. Hardwood is used to cover the treads. Other parts that wear out much less are sheathed with inexpensive and less hard wood.

The staircase covering is done partially when the steel frame is not completely covered. In most cases, complete cladding is made. The metal base on which the wooden steps are held is attached to special strings.

What material to choose for cladding?

To highlight the natural beauty, choose solid oak. Such a tree will be an excellent sound insulator; the staircase will become more attractive and original.

Different types of wood and the developed design entail certain financial investments. The project can be very expensive, but the cost does not always affect the result obtained.

The most popular varieties of wood species are:

Oak. Very durable, can serve for a long time. Has a wide range of colors. Over time it begins to darken. This makes it more attractive and luxurious.
Beech. Elegant and sophisticated wood. It has a high density, very durable wood.
Hornbeam. After prolonged drying, its hardness exceeds that of oak. This wood is also called white beech. Such wood can be poisoned and is quite easy to process.
Ash. The characteristics of the tree are similar to those of oak. Has high strength and wear resistance.
Teak. It is distinguished by high strength and beautiful color shades.
Coniferous trees are used for sheathing risers and stair railing parts, that is, in places where high strength and wear resistance are not needed. Such wood includes pine, cedar, etc.

It must be said that the wood must have excellent drying. The humidity level should not exceed 12%. If this indicator is higher, then the tree may “lead”. There should be no cracks in the wood. Each wooden element must be impregnated with an antiseptic so that the process of rotting does not begin.

To work you will need the following tool:

screwdriver;
screws;
rubber hammer;
carpentry tools designed for cutting threads on wooden surfaces;
plane;
level;
ruler;
pencil;
pins for attaching balusters.

Technology of work execution

To make the cladding of a metal staircase, you need to know certain rules and procedures for the production of cladding work. First of all you need to determine:

staircase system;
type of wood;
design;
railing material.

Then you need to measure the frame where the steps are attached and determine the dimensions of the risers. In some cases, they may differ slightly from the dimensions of the frame made. According to the measurements taken, a sheet of plywood is taken, a backing is cut out, which is placed under the treads. Using plywood, the slight slope of the metal frame is eliminated. After which the step parts are made. To make it more convenient to attach the risers, craftsmen advise making the treads a little wider than the metal frame.

The plywood backing is secured with mounting adhesive. The treads are pre-installed, securing them on both sides, then the risers are screwed to the frame parts. The heads of the screws need to be hidden; they are covered with mastic or covered with special furniture plugs.

In the next step, the stair railing is installed. It is attached to the treads or, if width allows, to the end of the march.

The next operation will be attaching the metal frame and wooden parts. A screwdriver is used for this purpose. Preliminary markings are made on those parts where the fastening will be performed. To do this, you need to place the part on a specific section of the metal staircase and make marks with an ordinary soft pencil. Each step must be equal to a specific part of the staircase.

Fastening begins with steps. They need to be fastened so that they protrude slightly forward, approximately 1 cm. This will look very beautiful and create maximum safety. Working with a screwdriver should start from the top, slowly moving down. When the last step is screwed on, you need to check the structure for strength. How level the steps are installed will be determined by the plumb line.

Steps that have wooden elements that protrude slightly beyond the metal surface look very nice.

It is advisable to use hardwood for overlays.

To avoid chipping the sheathing, you need to chamfer the entire area of the wooden panels, all corners should be round.

Balusters must be installed at the edges of the steps along the entire length of the stairs. When the level shows absolute verticality, the balusters are fixed with special pins. Then the railings are attached.

When staircase structures are made, it is possible to combine metal and wood. For metal parts, even scrap metal will do. You will only need to choose the most suitable option so that it fully meets your functional, aesthetic and financial capabilities.

A metal staircase is one of the varieties of such structures, which is distinguished by its strength, reliability and durability. Such structures are installed both outside buildings and inside a residential building, providing comfortable access to the second floor, attic or attic. Stairs on a metal frame today come in various configurations, because thanks to modern technologies, any, even the most complex, shape can be made from metal.

However, without finishing, such structures cannot be considered complete. A bare frame is not yet a full-fledged staircase. The modern market offers a large selection of finishing materials. Wood has gained the most popularity. It is this natural material that perfectly harmonizes with cold metal, opening up the widest scope for designers to bring their ideas to life.

Design Features

The metal frame is a strong foundation for the stairs. For its manufacture, light but durable metal alloys are used that are not subject to corrosion, wear and deformation. Such structures can have any shape, the most common are marching and screw models.

Before choosing this type of staircase structures, you should familiarize yourself with their main features and weigh the pros and cons:

Stairs with a metal frame are only slightly more expensive than similar wooden ones, but cheaper than concrete monolithic structures.

The metal base can be combined with other materials, and wood paneling is the best solution.

One can also note the absence of creaking steps. For these models, the load-bearing support is metal, the frame elements are tightly connected by welding.

Unlike completely wooden stairs, metal structures last a long time. The elements are not exposed to moisture, and the connections do not become loose due to intensive use.

Making an iron staircase with your own hands is carried out in two stages: installing a metal frame during the construction phase of the building and finishing it with wood after the interior design of the entire house.

Frame covering material

To decorate a metal staircase with your own hands, you can use different types of wood. The specific choice will determine what the final design will be - a budget option or an expensive interior element. Also, the choice of wood largely determines the performance qualities of the future product - whether it will be a modest staircase for infrequent use or an impact-resistant model with high levels of heat and sound insulation.

The cladding of stairs on a metal frame can be made from such types of wood as:

Oak. Famous for its strength and durability. Available in a wide range of colors: from light yellow to red-brown shades. This wood also has one feature - over time, the solid wood darkens a little, acquiring deep and noble tones.

Ash. Not inferior to its predecessor in strength. It has a grayish tint and a unique fibrous pattern; the structure of this wood is more porous than oak.

Beech. The rock is hard and dense, but easy to work with. It has a beautiful and clear texture with veins. Curly and bent elements are most often made from beech.

Coniferous species. Cedar, pine, and larch are often used for cladding staircase structures. Pine is the cheapest, but it does not have high performance qualities. Such materials are used for cladding only in places where there is no need to use more expensive and durable wood.

Exotic breeds. These include wenge, teak and merbau. Their main advantage is the variety of colors: from lemon yellow to deep purple, rich red and black tones. In addition to aesthetic appeal and decorativeness, they are durable and have a long service life.

Stain is most often used to tint wood paneling. If you want to save money, choose any of the affordable options. The main thing is that it is a light type of wood.

Criteria for choosing a metal staircase finish

Cladding an iron staircase structure with wood is, to a greater extent, a decorative design of the frame. However, you still need to choose finishing materials that would significantly improve the technical characteristics of the future product. The end result should be a staircase that is strong, comfortable and safe to use.

To choose a high-quality facing material, you should pay attention to the following criteria:

The maximum permissible moisture content of lumber should not exceed 12%. Poorly dried wood often causes deformation of the staircase structure or its elements.

There should be no cracks, chips or other defects on the surface of the material. Choose only smooth wood, one that has been sawn on good machines.

There should not be too many knots in the tree structure. Otherwise, the material will be difficult to process, and this will require a lot of labor.

The choice of covering also depends on the location of the metal staircase - in the living room, occupying the central part of the room, or in the utility part. After all, the aesthetic characteristics of different breeds are not the same.

Choose only high-quality and well-dried wood

In the video: how to choose material and components for the stairs.

Metal structure cladding technology

When you have decided on the wood and purchased lumber for cladding in the required quantity, you can begin installation. But before this, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and prepare tools, without which it is impossible to finish the staircase.

Necessary tool

To sheathe a metal staircase with wood with your own hands, you will need the following list of tools:

hammer drill and screwdriver;
jigsaw for cutting material;
plane, file, sandpaper;
hammer, rubber mallet, pliers;
tape measure, building level;
set of wrenches, self-tapping screws.

Preparatory work

To sheathe a metal staircase, it is not enough just to acquire the necessary tools. How reliable, durable and easy to use the structure will depend on correctly completed preparatory work.

So what needs to be done:

1. Using a tape measure, measure each step of the iron staircase, as well as its side parts and the length of the flight.

2. Write down the received data on a piece of paper and mark the necessary parts on the lumber.

3. Cut out all the necessary blanks of suitable sizes, process rough edges with a file, and sharp corners with emery.

4. Number the elements for covering the steps, taking into account that you will carry out the finishing process from bottom to top. It is better to do this in places that will not be visible after installation.

5. Using sandpaper, sand the surfaces to perfect smoothness. You can use a sander, so the work will go faster.

6. Finally, it is enough to treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic and wait until they dry completely.

Metal frame cladding

When all the parts are carefully processed and ready for installation, we proceed to cladding the frame. The whole process looks like this:

1. We begin work by finishing the steps from bottom to top. To do this, we lay wooden treads and fix them with self-tapping screws. The caps of the fasteners should be deepened into the boards by half a centimeter.

2. We install risers. They must fit tightly to the frame; to fasten them we also use self-tapping screws with a metal drill.

3. Let's start assembling the fencing elements. The balusters are installed on the steps along the edges; we screw in the screws on the back side of the steps. It is advisable to place the supporting elements at intervals of 15-20 cm. Next, we attach the handrail to the installed balusters.

If desired, it is possible to sheathe the remaining visible parts of the frame with wood. But this finishing option is needed only if the metal structure has some defects.

Rear mounting

The peculiarity of this cladding method is that the wooden parts are laid on top of the frame, and the screws are screwed in from the back side. First you need to drill holes in the metal itself in the right places for fastenings. Just prepare a container with cold water in advance to cool the drill - often the metal in such frames has a thickness of 5-7 mm.

The diameter of the holes should be such that the self-tapping screws can easily pass through them in the future.

Next we move on to the installation of each step. Everything is very simple here. First you need to make a backing from plywood and fix it to the frame using mounting adhesive with a filling effect. Just don’t use polyurethane foam instead of glue - it dries out over time, which will lead to unpleasant squeaks.

We lay treads on top of the substrate and tighten them from the reverse side with self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes in the metal. As for risers, the technology for their installation is no different from the process described above.

Exterior decoration of the staircase

At the final stage, all that remains is to sheathe the back side and trim the side part of the staircase structure. This can be done using chipboard sheets, plasterboard or lining. First, we prepare the parts of the required size and sheathe the side edge like a bowstring; for this it is better to use wooden panels. We cover the lower part of the flight of stairs with plasterboard. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws.

After covering a metal staircase with wood, do not forget about the finishing touch, on which the final result will depend. Additionally, we coat the tiled parts of the staircase with wood paint or open them with varnish, tinted or transparent - whatever you like.