Causes of poor growth of clematis and their elimination. Why do the lower leaves of clematis turn yellow? The leaves of clematis turn yellow, what to do?

There is only one secret to protection: follow all agrotechnical requirements. When wilting occurs, it is necessary to clean the plants from the affected parts and pour a 0.2% solution of foundationazole (benlate) under the roots 2-3 times. In the future, to prevent the disease, every spring and autumn it is necessary to water the plants with a foundation solution. This drug effectively slows down the development of pathogenic fungi, but does not completely cure. Severely affected, rotten clematis are removed with a clod of earth and be sure to soak the soil with a solution of foundation.

Gray mold, powdery mildew and rust constitute a group of diseases that manifest themselves as plaques. Gray rot affects clematis in rainy years and manifests itself as brown, rapidly enlarging spots on leaves and shoots. With high air humidity, brown necrosis is covered with gray fluffy mycelium and spores, which are carried by the wind and re-infect neighboring leaves. And since the botrytis mushroom is omnivorous, gray rot from clematis spreads to other flowering plants. To prevent this disease, plant debris is collected, affected leaves and shoots are trimmed, and the plants are sprayed with a 0.2% solution of azocen or foundationazole. Spraying plants with foundationazole in spring and autumn has a positive effect.

powdery mildew is caused by pathogenic fungi from several genera and it manifests itself from mid-summer with a white powdery coating on almost all above-ground parts, but physiologically young tissues are primarily affected - young shoots, leaves, buds and flowers. Under the attack of mycelium, tissues turn brown, dry out, organs become deformed, and plant growth and flowering stop. Protective measures should be started at the first symptoms of the disease, without waiting for the leaves and buds to dry out. The drugs topaz, azocene, and foundationazole are effective for this. You can use a copper-soap solution (copper sulfate 20-30 g + green soap 200-300 g per 10 liters of water) or a solution of soda ash (40 g, or 1 tbsp per 10 liters of water), infusion of mullein, hay dust , whole cow's milk solution, etc.

Rust Clematis appears as orange sporulation pads on shoots, petioles and leaves already in spring. With strong spread, plant shoots become deformed, and leaves turn brown and dry out. The pathogenic fungus overwinters on the shoots or on the wheatgrass weed and in the spring again infects the growing shoots. Premature drying of the vegetative parts greatly weakens the plant and affects its overwintering. At the first signs of rust, spray with 1-2% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (polychome, oxychome, copper oxychloride).

Often closer to autumn, dark gray is noticeable on weakened plants. necrosis leaves and shoots covered with a velvety olive coating. It is mainly the physiologically older parts that are affected. Necrosis is caused by a saprotroph fungus from the genus Alternaria, which naturally develops on dying tissues. But with strong spread, the fungus spreads to young tissues, causing premature drying of plants. Any copper-containing preparations are effective against Alternaria.

Clematis leaf spots begin to appear in mid-summer and are visible until late autumn. The most common of them is ascochyta blight. A pathogenic fungus from the genus Ascochyta causes dark brown spots (necrosis), often irregular in shape, sometimes merging with each other, with pronounced zoning. Black fruiting bodies - pycnidia - ripen along the necrotic tissue in the fall, in which the fungus overwinters. With cylindrosporiosis (causative agent cylindrosporium), characteristic ocher-yellow spots appear on the leaves, limited by leaf veins. A fungus from the genus Septoria causes septoria leaf blight, which appears as rounded light gray spots with a thin reddish border. By autumn, black dotted pycnidia ripen along dying tissues. Loss of necrotic tissue is observed with all spots, so spotting cannot be distinguished by this feature. Fungi that cause spotting cause damage to leaf blades, which leads to disruption of all processes associated with photosynthesis and inevitably leads to a general weakening of plants. Therefore, the appearance of spots should not be considered only as a loss of decorative effect of flowering clematis. This is the beginning of general oppression, reduction of buds, initiation and ripening of wintering organs. Protective measures are simple - collecting affected plant debris (leaves) and spraying with any copper-containing preparations. In early spring and autumn at the end of the growing season, a 1% solution of copper or iron sulfate is used, and during the growing season it is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes.

Viral diseases are rare on clematis. In some varieties it may appear yellow mosaic leaves, which is transmitted by sucking pests. There are no effective drugs to treat this disease, so it is recommended to discard all diseased plants. To prevent the spread of a viral infection, you should not plant plants next to clematis that are often affected themselves - aquilegia, delphinium, hosta, peony, phlox, sweet peas, bulbous plants.

Sometimes clematis spread and nematodes, i.e., damage by phytohelminths. There is a root-knot nematode - Meloidogina, which forms brown swellings on the roots - galls, which over time cause rot of the roots, and then the death of the plants themselves. Leaf nematodes are also common, living in leaf blades and causing various necrosis. When digging up rotten plants, be sure to take a closer look at the root system and, if there are galls, do not plant new clematis plants in this place for several years.

But remember that the appearance of both diseases and numerous pests are the first signs of a violation of the agricultural practices of growing clematis or the use of a variety that is unsuitable for your conditions. This is precisely where developmental inhibition and decreased immunity to disease begin in these beautiful plants.
based on the article by L. Trevais “So that clematis do not get sick” // “Flora” - 1999 - No. 3

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Do you have clematis growing, but is it already suffering from something? Find out what it is urgently and treat it correctly. And even better - prevention!
Clematis diseases not only spoil the appearance of such a beautiful plant, but can also completely destroy it. You can find out from the previous article. Now let's talk about other clematis diseases.

Gray mold (botrytis fungus) appears on clematis in the form of a brown coating on leaves and shoots. Most often, gray rot appears in rainy summers, when it is very humid. On the brown spots, a light fluff or coating later appears - this is the mycelium and spores of the fungus. Thanks to wind and moisture, it moves to healthy leaves and shoots of clematis.

The fungus botrytis, which causes gray rot, is voracious, therefore, having migrated from clematis to other flowering plants, it begins to eat them too.

If you notice such leaves and shoots, remove them immediately. And it is advisable that as soon as you cut a leaf, keep an open bag nearby and throw away the affected parts. That is, so as not to disturb the vine too much and so that with your help the fungus does not spread to other plants.

For example, gray rot is a common disease of garden strawberries. Here's what it looks like:

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How to treat clematis from gray rot? After collecting the affected parts of clematis, it is advisable to spray the entire plant with foundationazole or a 2% azocen solution. In general, it is better to water clematis with a solution of foundationazole in spring and autumn. Foundationazol is best suited for the prevention and treatment of clematis diseases!

Rust on clematis. Already in early spring, yellow-brown pads or growths on leaves and shoots may be noticeable on clematis. Later, the leaves and shoots curl, become crooked, and become deformed, then the leaves dry out and fall off.

If this is not dealt with, the plant may survive, but will again go into winter with the disease. But in the spring, the fungus will again infect young shoots, and then it will be harder for clematis. Usually the fungus that causes rust on clematis overwinters on diseased shoots that have not been removed, or, imagine, on wheatgrass weed! Therefore, if there is wheatgrass nearby, remove it immediately!
And this is what rust on the leaves looks like:
target="_blank">http://landbuilding.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Klem3.jpg 605w" width="600" /> How to treat rust on clematis? As soon as you immediately notice “rusty” spots on the leaves and shoots of clematis, immediately spray the plant with a 1-2% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Or its substitutes are copper oxychloride, oxychome, polychome.

Necrosis on clematis. Necrosis is caused by a saprotrophic fungus from the genus Alternaria. Necrosis appears on weakened leaves and shoots in the fall, which are already old and beginning to die. That is, there is nothing terrible here, the fungus helps remake organic matter. But if it grows strongly, it moves to young leaves and shoots. Thus, most of the clematis may become covered with dark olive spots, and the leaves will become deformed.
This is what leaf necrosis looks like:
target="_blank">http://landbuilding.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Klem4.jpg 640w" width="600" /> How to cure clematis from necrosis? To prevent the plant from drying out from necrosis (or Alternaria, from the name of the fungus), you need to periodically remove all old leaves and shoots, as well as treat the plant with any preparations that contain copper.

Spots on clematis leaves. Spots on clematis leaves can appear from various fungi. Now we will list them and suggest treatment.

The spots can be different, but you can’t always tell which fungus has infected the clematis. It even happens that the plant is affected by all kinds of fungi! The leaves have spots of different colors and sizes. But don't worry, everything can be cured.

Spots on clematis leaves usually appear in the middle of summer and appear more and more towards autumn. Most often, spots are caused by a fungus of the genus Ascochyta - as a result ascochyta blight Dark brown spots appear, irregular in shape, but merging with each other. The edges of the spots are very clear. And in the fall, black fruiting bodies develop on these already darkened spots - these are pycnidia, and the fungus overwinters in them.

Cylindrosporiosis Caused by the fungus cylindrosporium. Take a closer look; there are ocher-yellow spots on the leaves, bounded by leaf veins.

And here septoria Causes a fungus from the genus Septoria. Gray spots appear on the leaves, surrounded by a reddish border. By autumn, black pycnidia also appear on the spots - the home of the fungus.

All fungal diseases that affect the leaf blade of clematis disrupt important processes that are associated with photosynthesis. Without photosynthesis, the plant simply dies. Leaf spotting on clematis is not only a loss of decorativeness, but also a sign that the plant needs to be treated. It is alive and you are responsible for it!

Spotting causes a deterioration in the entire condition of clematis, a decrease in buds, and rhizomes do not overwinter well.
target="_blank">http://landbuilding.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Klem5.jpg 640w" width="600" /> How to treat spots on clematis leaves? The treatment is very simple. Most fungi die when the plant is treated with copper-containing preparations. For example, you need to spray clematis with a 1% solution of iron or copper sulfate in early spring and autumn, and in the summer during the growing season, spray it with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes. And of course, be sure to choose spotted leaves, deformed and damaged shoots.

Yellow mosaic on clematis. This is a viral disease, but it occurs very rarely. This virus is transmitted by sucking pests (aphids, mites, copperheads, caterpillars, sawfly larvae). That is, wind and moisture have nothing to do with it. And there don’t have to be yellow spots; usually the leaf becomes discolored.
target="_blank">http://landbuilding.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Klem6.jpg 650w" width="600" /> How to treat yellow mosaic on clematis? If a yellow mosaic appears on your clematis, then immediately remove all the “mosaic” leaves and treat the plant with pesticides against sucking pests - karbofos, colloidal sulfur, potassium soap or trichlorometaphos.

Unfortunately, if you don’t have time, there is no special drug to treat yellow mosaic. Therefore, don’t just admire the clematis, but also look at its leaves.

Advice. Do not plant plants near clematis that may themselves be affected by yellow spot. And these are sweet peas, bulbous, peony, phlox, hosta, delphinium, aquilegia.

Wilting of clematis and its treatment. Wilting is also called wilt. This is a common problem, and many people can’t understand where it comes from? What kind of disease is this? And these are the usual soil fungi that are bad for clematis. There are several of them and they all lead to the death of this beautiful plant.

Fungi living in the soil attack the root system of clematis, causing the clematis to wither, dry out and die.

The most common fungus in the soil that attacks clematis roots is Phomopsis. It penetrates from the ground into the roots, then under the epidermis of the shoots, and there pycnidia develop, where the fungus grows and spreads to other parts of the plant.

Here's a fungus fusarium“strangles” clematis. It gets from the soil into the roots, grows through the conducting system of blood vessels, where juice important for life flows (like our capillaries and blood) and clogs this system with its mycelium.

Fungus genus verticillium It works the same way, only slower. As a result, these fungi release toxins and the leaves turn yellow, brown, wither or rot.

Fungus genus koniotirum on the contrary, it affects not the roots, but the shoots immediately above the ground, leaving brown ulcers and constrictions on them. This is how the above-ground part of the clematis dies, the fungus can survive on unharvested remains, and in the spring, when young shoots appear, the fungus will infect them too.

Clematis wilt also often appears from a variety of soil pathogens, which are best affects clematis during warm winters when thaws and frosts alternate.

Wilting of clematis may still occur with very thickened and shaded plantings, with stagnant water or with high acidity. Therefore, when treating clematis for diseases, also pay attention to the agricultural technology of growing clematis, is it growing in a good place?
The photo shows wilting clematis or wilt:
How to treat clematis wilt? If you have already noticed that the clematis is withering, then immediately clean the plant from the affected areas, and pour the clematis generously 2-3 times under the root with a 0.2% solution of foundationol (benlate).

For prevention, every spring and autumn, pour clematis under the root with a solution of foundation. But remember, it slows down the development of fungi well, but does not kill them completely. Therefore, the only correct thing to do is to follow the correct agricultural practices.

And the most important! If you do not want all sorts of fungi that attack the above-ground part of clematis to appear, then be sure to mulch the ground near the clematis shoots with a mixture of sand and ash 10:1. This way you will create a barrier to fungi that may appear from the ground. And the ash will also deoxidize the soil, because these plants do not like acidic soil - it will also help and that’s why your clematis are getting sick.

powdery mildew It is caused by pathogenic fungi from several genera and appears from mid-summer with a white powdery coating on almost all above-ground parts, but physiologically young tissues are primarily affected - young shoots, leaves, buds and flowers. Under the attack of mycelium, tissues turn brown, dry out, organs become deformed, and plant growth and flowering stop. Protective measures should be started at the first symptoms of the disease, without waiting for the leaves and buds to dry out. The drugs topaz, azocene, and foundationazole are effective for this. You can use a copper-soap solution (copper sulfate 20-30 g + green soap 200-300 g per 10 liters of water) or a solution of soda ash (40 g, or 1 tbsp per 10 liters of water), infusion of mullein, hay dust , whole cow's milk solution, etc.

Zamioculcas is a luxurious decorative deciduous shrub of the Araceae family. This flower first appeared in East Africa and Madagascar. People call it the dollar tree. Therefore, keeping it at home has its own advantages and signs. Growing this exotic has become quite fashionable and popular. Its dense, dark green leaves maintain this appearance all year round. Look at the photo of this lush green exotic. However, sometimes its leaves turn yellow. In this article we will look at the main causes of this condition.

Zamioculcas is an unpretentious plant, and caring for it is quite simple and accessible to every gardener. But a flower growing in the wild is more hardy and less demanding than a shrub grown at home.

Why zamioculcas leaves turn yellow remains a mystery to many. In addition to the fact that this can result in damage to various diseases and pests, there are many other reasons that cause such a reaction.

Another reason why the leaves of this flower deteriorate is the owner’s improper care. Zamioculcas leaves also turn yellow due to improper watering. This can happen both with a lack of moisture and with an excess of moisture, which happens more often. Therefore, if you often water your pet, and it suddenly begins to turn yellow, this is a sign that you simply overwatered it.

Since this flower is considered drought-resistant, there is no need for abundant and frequent watering. But if this happens, the plant must be saved immediately.

Damage to rhizomes and temperature changes

Kornevin;

Will take root;

Corneros.

It also happens that a flower you brought home that you bought at a flower shop begins to turn yellow. Then it should be urgently transplanted into the substrate that is used for planting cacti.

A flower planted in new soil should be watered no more than once every six months. The main thing is not to overdo it so that there is no waterlogging, otherwise this will lead to rotting of the tubers of the flower.

A sign that a plant is affected by spider mites is the presence of a thin cobweb on the leaves and branches of the bush. Basically, this pest settles on the inside of leaves, entwining them with its web. There are two methods of dealing with ticks:

You can simply rinse the leaves well with warm water - this is a physical method.

The appearance of dark spots on the leaves, as well as their yellowing, indicate that Zamioculcas is affected by the scale insect. This pest multiplies quite quickly and spreads throughout the plant. Adults must be collected by hand, and in the fight against larvae the method of treatment with soap solution or insecticides is very effective.

Components of abundant flowering of clematis

In order for the roots to begin to function normally after planting, clematis need weekly abundant watering. And in sunny and dry weather, they are watered after 5 days. In the future, young plants require watering once every 7-10 days. To find out whether adult plants need moisture, check the condition of the soil at a depth of 20-30 cm. If the soil is dry, it’s time to water the clematis. When watering, the soil is moistened to the depth of the roots. Otherwise, large-flowered clematis over 5 years old, as a rule, begin to have smaller flowers. To prevent this from happening, the water must penetrate to a depth of 60-70 cm. But with normal watering, only part of the water reaches that deep, the rest spreads over the surface of the soil. How to be? This problem has a simple solution. Around the bush, stepping back from it by 30-40 cm, dig flower pots flush with the surface of the ground. During watering, they are filled with water, which will then gradually penetrate to the roots through the drainage hole in the bottom. This technique promotes the formation of large flowers even in 7-8 year old plants.

Soil care.

Clematis requires a lot of nutrients. Firstly, they bloom for a long time and abundantly, and secondly, they annually renew almost the entire above-ground vegetative mass. Large-flowered clematis are fed at least twice a month, and small-flowered clematis are given 2-3 feedings per season, using 10 liters of nutrient solution per 1-2 bushes (depending on the size of the plant). During growth, clematis especially need nitrogen. With its deficiency, the shoots become short, the leaves become smaller, turn yellow, acquire a reddish tint, and the flowers are small and poorly colored. Due to the fact that shoot growth in clematis occurs throughout the entire growing season, nitrogen should always be in the soil, but the greatest amount is required in the spring. For nitrogen fertilizing, diluted organic fertilizers are used: slurry (1:10) or bird droppings (1:15), alternating with mineral fertilizers: nitroammophoska, or ammonium nitrate, or urea (15-20 g/10 l). Phosphorus is another important element needed by clematis. Its deficiency causes browning of the leaves, which take on a purple hue. Shoots and roots develop poorly. Phosphorus is added during the main soil amendment in the form of bone meal in September

Clematis needs pruning for abundant and long flowering, harmonious spatial distribution of shoots, and annual renewal of lush vines. The first time the shoots are shortened when planting seedlings. This is very important for the further formation of the above-ground part of the plant and the development of its root system. Pruning to the bottom pair of buds stimulates tillering and rapid root growth. The branches growing from the lower pair of buds are pinched to increase the number of basal shoots. The need for this technique is due to the fact that in many large-flowered clematis, only one stem grows quickly in the first year after planting. After pruning, the plant begins to branch and forms a dense bush.

Why do the lower leaves of clematis turn yellow?

Further pruning depends on which shoots flowering occurs on. Based on this, experts divide clematis into 3 groups.

The first group includes plants in which flowering occurs mainly in the spring on the shoots of the previous year (large-flowered variety groups Patens, Florida and small-flowered species - alpine, grape-leaved, mountain, stinging, etc.). These vines are grown without pruning, or after flowering, only the part of the shoot where seeds form in the flowers is pruned. If the bush is very dense, weak shoots are cut to the base so that stronger ones appear the next year.

The third group includes plants in which the bulk of flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year (varietal groups of Jacquemman, Vititsella, Integrifolia, Clematis virginiana, etc.). They bloom from July to mid-September. The most abundant flowering is observed in late July-August. Pruning clematis of this group is very simple: before sheltering for the winter, all shoots are cut to the ground. And in varieties with partial flowering and on last year’s shoots, pruning is carried out at a height of 40-60 cm.

In addition, varieties that bloom mainly in the upper part of the bush are pinched at a height of 1 - 1.5 m in May. In the future, this technique leads to an even distribution of flowers. Dead, weak and diseased shoots must be cut out of all clematis in the spring.

Shelter for the winter.

Clematis most often suffer from diseases caused by fungi; they are rarely affected by viral diseases. But if this happens, the diseased plant must be destroyed, since they have not yet learned how to fight viruses.

Verticillium wilt.

Methods of protection. If a disease is detected, the lower part of the plant is sprayed with 0.3% copper oxychloride or 0.1% baseazole. Amateur gardeners successfully fight wilt with wood ash. Once a week, in the morning when there is dew, when the stems are wet and the ash sticks well, the lower part of the bush (up to 30 cm) is pollinated. Or at any time of the day, spray with ash infusion, strained through cheesecloth (0.5 kg per 1 bucket of water, infuse for 2 days).

There is another way. In the second half of summer, when the clematis stems are completely lignified, the base of the vine and shoots up to a height of 30 cm are sprayed with a weak solution of slaked lime (3-4 tablespoons per bucket of water). In this case, you need to ensure that the lime covers the entire lower part of the plant with a thin layer.

Leaf spotting.

Brown spots first appear on the affected leaves, then the tissue underneath is destroyed and holes form. Disease of the root part of the stem can lead to the death of the plant. During the summer, pathogens are spread by air currents, raindrops, and insects. The development of spots is promoted by sharp temperature fluctuations and excessive soil moisture. The peak of the disease occurs in September - October.

Methods of protection. To destroy pathogens in early spring and autumn, clematis are sprayed with a suspension of copper oxychloride (0.3-0.5%), or Bordeaux mixture (1%), or a solution of copper sulfate (30 g per 10 liters of water).

In case of minor damage, diseased leaves and shoots are cut off and destroyed. Get rid of slugs and snails, carriers of pathogens.

Affects leaves, young shoots, flowers. They become covered with a white powdery coating, under which the tissues become dark and die. Damaged parts of the plant are deformed, growth and flowering stop. The spread of powdery mildew is facilitated by high air humidity at moderate temperatures.

Gray rot.

Rust.

In spring, orange pads appear on the leaves, shoots and petioles of affected plants. Then the shoots become deformed and the leaves wither.

If you do not know which group of varieties the clematis growing in your garden belong to, cut them to a height of 40-60 cm before covering them for the winter.

To make working solutions of drugs used to treat diseases stick to the leaves better, add grated laundry soap (40 g per bucket of water) to them.

If clematis leaves turn yellow, there may be several reasons - lack of nutrients, fungal diseases, pests that attack the roots. Before starting treatment, it is necessary to establish the cause of the yellowing of the leaves; perhaps the flower can still be helped.

Whatever color the spots on the leaves are, they all interfere with normal photosynthesis, which leads to the death of clematis. A flower weakened by fungi does not receive enough of the nutrients it needs, the roots go into the winter without the necessary supply of nutrients, and if they do not disappear during the winter, in the spring they will not be able to bloom as magnificently and abundantly as before.

Yellow mosaic refers to viral diseases. The virus is transmitted by insects sucking the sap of plants - caterpillars, mites, aphids, sawfly larvae, and copperheads. These viruses are not transmitted by airborne droplets, so it is important to treat clematis with insecticides so that insects do not even crawl on it. Yellow mosaic appears as yellow spots, but some viruses simply discolor the leaves.

Damaged leaves are immediately removed, clematis is treated with colloidal sulfur, karbofos, trichlorometaphos, and potassium soap. There are no special preparations against yellow mosaic, but the listed insecticides effectively destroy both insects and the viruses they carry.

If tulips, phlox, peonies, aquilegia, delphinium, hosta grow next to clematis, treat them too, they are susceptible to the same viral diseases.

The fungus koniotrium attacks the shoots in their lower part. As a result, clematis withers, turns yellow and dies.

Wilting of the flower with yellowing of the leaves can occur due to strong temperature changes during warm winters with frequent thaws. And also in thickened plantings, on soil with high acidity and stagnant moisture. Therefore, it is important to initially choose a suitable location for clematis.

To prevent the death of a flower, at the first signs of wilting, water it at the root with a two percent solution of foundationazole. This drug can also be used for preventive purposes in spring and autumn; it prevents the growth and spread of fungi, but does not completely destroy them.

As a preventative measure, you can use wood ash to mulch the soil above the roots. Ash is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1/10. In addition to destroying the fungus, it will make the soil less acidic and protect clematis from other problems.

Sometimes clematis spread and nematodes. i.e., damage by phytohelminths. There is a root-knot nematode, Meloidogina, which forms brown swellings on the roots - galls, which over time cause rot of the roots, and then the death of the plants themselves. Leaf nematodes are also common, living in leaf blades and causing various necrosis. When digging up rotten plants, be sure to take a closer look at the root system and, if there are galls, do not plant new clematis plants in this place for several years. Read more about nematodes.

But remember that the appearance of both diseases and numerous pests are the first signs of a violation of the agricultural practices of growing clematis or the use of a variety unsuitable for your conditions. This is precisely where developmental inhibition and decreased immunity to disease begin in these beautiful plants.

based on the article by L. Trevais “So that clematis do not get sick” // “Flora” - 1999 - No. 3

Clematis: proper soil care, regular fertilizing. watering, pruning

Proper soil care, regular fertilizing and watering, pruning in accordance with the requirements of the variety, protection from winter frosts, diseases and pests - this is the maximum care that clematis needs for abundant and long flowering for many years.

On loose, fertile soils, clematis roots reach a depth of 1 m. In general, the root system of an adult plant masters up to 1 m3 of soil. Such a powerful plant needs a lot of nutrients and moisture.

How to water clematis

Watering. In order for the roots to begin to function normally after planting, clematis need weekly abundant watering. And in sunny and dry weather, they are watered after 5 days. In the future, young plants require watering once every 7-10 days. To find out whether adult plants need moisture, check the condition of the soil at a depth of 20-30 cm. If the soil is dry, it’s time to water the clematis.

When watering, the soil is moistened to the depth of the roots. Otherwise, large-flowered clematis over 5 years old, as a rule, begin to have smaller flowers. To prevent this from happening, the water must penetrate to a depth of 60-70 cm. But with normal watering, only part of the water reaches that deep, the rest spreads over the surface of the soil.

How to be? This problem has a simple solution. Around the bush, stepping back from it by 30-40 cm, dig flower pots flush with the surface of the ground. During watering, they are filled with water, which will then gradually penetrate to the roots through the drainage hole in the bottom. This technique promotes the formation of large flowers even in 7-8 year old plants.

Clematis, how to properly care for the soil

Soil care. Clematis do not tolerate overheating and drying out of the soil. It should always be slightly damp and loose. Therefore, after each watering and rain, the soil around the plants is loosened. Near new plantings - shallow (2-5 cm) to destroy the soil crust and the first weeds.

Good results are obtained by mulching the soil, which partially replaces watering and loosening. For clematis, it is best to use semi-rotted manure as mulch, sprinkled with peat. When watering or raining, such mulch retains moisture longer and provides the plant with additional nutrition. In winter, it protects the root system from freezing, especially during icy conditions. Thanks to mulch, many worms appear, which, by making passages in the soil, help improve its structure.

How to feed clematis and add nutrients

Feeding. Clematis requires a lot of nutrients. Firstly, they bloom for a long time and abundantly, and secondly, they annually renew almost the entire above-ground vegetative mass. Large-flowered clematis are fed at least 2 times a month, and small-flowered ones are given 2-3 feedings per season, using 10 liters of nutrient solution per 1-2 bushes (depending on the size of the plant).

During the growth of clematis especially need nitrogen. With its deficiency, the shoots become short, the leaves become smaller, turn yellow, acquire a reddish tint, and the flowers are small and poorly colored. Due to the fact that shoot growth in clematis occurs throughout the entire growing season, nitrogen should always be in the soil, but the greatest amount is required in the spring. For nitrogen fertilizing, diluted organic fertilizers are used: slurry (1:10) or bird droppings (1:15), alternating with mineral fertilizers: nitroammophoska, or ammonium nitrate, or urea (15-20 g/10 l).

Phosphorus is another important element. necessary for clematis. Its deficiency causes browning of the leaves, which take on a purple hue. Shoots and roots develop poorly. Phosphorus is added during the main soil amendment in the form of bone meal in September (200 g/m2). But at the same time you can apply fertilizing with an extract of superphosphate (20 g/10 l of water).

Potassium activates the synthesis of organic substances in cells and promotes the flow of water into them. Its deficiency causes browning of the edges of leaves, especially old ones. The flower stalks and pedicels of the buds become brown and even blacken. The color of the flowers becomes lighter. In the spring it is best to use potassium nitrate, in August potassium sulfate, diluting 20-30 g in 10 liters of water.

N. Ya. Ippolitova, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences

Proper soil care, regular fertilizing and watering, pruning in accordance with the requirements of the species, protection from winter frosts, diseases and pests - this is the maximum care that clematis needs for abundant and long flowering for many years. On loose, fertile soils, clematis roots reach a depth of 1 m. In general, the root system of an adult plant develops up to 1 m of soil. Such a powerful plant needs a lot of nutrients and moisture.

Clematis do not tolerate overheating and drying out of the soil. It should always be slightly damp and loose. Therefore, after each watering and rain, the soil around the plants is loosened. Apply shallowly around new plantings (2-5 cm), just to destroy the soil crust and the first weeds. Good results are obtained by mulching the soil, which partially replaces watering and loosening. For clematis, it is best to use semi-rotted manure as mulch, sprinkled with peat. When watering or raining, such mulch retains moisture longer and provides the plant with additional nutrition. In winter, it protects the root system from freezing, especially during icy conditions. Thanks to mulch, many worms appear, which, by making passages in the soil, help improve its structure.

The second group unites clematis, in which flowers develop both on the shoots of the current year and on last year’s (Lanuginosa variety group, clematis paniculata, etc.). Their first short flowering occurs in May-June on the shoots of the previous year, and the second, abundant flowering occurs from July to autumn on the shoots of the current year. For such clematis, pruning is carried out in two stages. First, in the summer, they cut off the faded part of last year’s shoot, and if the bush is very dense, these shoots are cut to the ground. The current year's growth is cut off before covering for the winter. If you want to get early flowering in the spring, only the faded part of the growth is removed (up to the first true leaf). This type of pruning is called combined.

By autumn, clematis shoots ripen and harden. Therefore, with proper (deep) planting and good care, they winter normally even with light shelter. In varieties that form flowers on last year's shoots, it is necessary to preserve summer growth (1st pruning group). To get rid of fungal diseases, only leaves and dead parts of old or diseased vines are removed. Before the soil freezes, the base of the bush is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 2% iron sulfate and covered with sand to a height of 15 cm, to which ash is added (250 g per bucket of sand). The shoots are sprayed with the same composition and bent down, spruce branches are placed under them and on top. In areas where winter thaws are possible, dry peat or sawdust is poured on top of the spruce branches and covered with plastic wrap. You can place wooden slats near the bent, rolled shoots and cover them with film on top. It is important that there is an air gap. Clematis belonging to the 2nd pruning group are also covered.

Clematis, which form flowers on the shoots of the current year (3rd pruning group), after the onset of stable frosts, are covered with sand to a height of 10-15 cm. The shoots are cut at the same height. Then they are covered with a layer of 20-25 cm of peat, rotted manure or sawdust (1-2 buckets per plant) and covered with film. Or they simply cover it with sand and ash, and then snow. With such shelter under snow cover, clematis winter well. They can withstand frosts down to 40°C without loss; thaws followed by sharp cold snaps are more dangerous for them. In spring, plants are gradually released from shelter. First, remove the plastic film, then the substrate layer. The spruce branches and part of the peat (or sand and ash) are left until the danger of night frosts has passed. Then they carefully lift the shoots, distributing them evenly on the supports. The soil above the center of tillering is carefully leveled, leaving a layer of 5-8 cm.

Protection from diseases.

Fusarium wilt (fusarium wilt).

In diseased clematis, the lower parts of the vines turn black and become damaged. The bark there looks swollen. Underneath it, the mycelium of the fungus develops from spores, which clogs the conducting vessels, metabolism is disrupted, and the shoots wither. Later the bark delaminates and dies. Favorable conditions for the development of fusarium are elevated air temperatures and high humidity.

Methods of protection. In early spring and autumn (after pruning), plants are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture or treated with a suspension of copper oxychloride: 0.5% in spring and autumn, 0.3% in summer. Before planting, green cuttings and annual seedlings are kept in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole for 15 minutes. For preventive purposes, clematis are watered only with warm water, trying to ensure that the liquid does not get on the shoots. Daylilies, marigolds, and marigolds are planted nearby, which protect the vines from fusarium.

Powdery mildew.

Methods of protection. At the first signs of disease, plants are sprayed with a 0.2% soap-copper solution (20-30 g of copper sulfate, 200-300 g of green soap per 10 liters of water). In the fall, remove all diseased shoots and leaves in which the pathogens overwinter. For prevention, at the beginning of leaf blooming, clematis are sprayed with foundationazole (0.2%), or colloidal sulfur (1%), or soda ash and soap (40 g of soda and soap per 10 liters of water).

This fungal disease most often affects clematis in rainy and cool summers. Brown spots appear on the leaves, covered with a gray fluffy coating. Pathogens that look like black dots develop there. Healthy leaves become infected from diseased leaves. The spores of the fungus are carried by the wind and remain on plant debris of diseased plants. The spread of the disease is facilitated by stagnant air, thickened plantings and excessive amounts of nitrogen.

Methods of protection. In early spring and autumn, plants are sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, in the summer with a 0.3% suspension of copper oxychloride.

Methods of protection. To destroy the rust pathogen, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 1% colloidal sulfur.

Pest control.

Harmful insects bother clematis less than diseases. They mainly damage plants in greenhouses and conservatories. In open ground they are more common in the south, much less common in the middle zone.

Garden green bug. This very small insect (3-4 mm long) lives on the underside of young leaves. At the injection sites that the bugs make, yellowish dots appear, and the leaf tissue gradually dies. The activity of these pests begins in May and continues until August, when females lay eggs in holes made at the ends of the shoots. As a result, the tops become deformed, the shoots stop growing, and flowering is delayed or stops altogether. Means of struggle. The pest is destroyed by spraying the plants with fufanon (10 ml per 10 liters of water).

Snails and slugs. All above-ground organs of the plant are damaged - buds, shoots, leaves, flowers. They are also dangerous because they are carriers of diseases. Means of struggle. To prevent the proliferation of slugs, weeds are destroyed. Snails and slugs are caught by laying traps on the ground from pieces of roofing felt, boards or other materials under which the pests take refuge during the day.

Mice, rats. These rodents often damage clematis in winter. The shoots and roots of plants suffer from them. Means of struggle. Covering with pine needles for the winter partially helps protect plants from rodents. But for greater reliability, poisoned baits are left next to clematis prepared for winter. They take small boxes, make holes in them for the passage of mice and put in cereal or flour, mixing storm with the preparation. Cover the box with a lid to prevent pets from being accidentally poisoned. Several such traps are placed near clematis. Once a month the bait is replaced with fresh one.

Plant low perennial flowers at the base of the clematis. By doing this you will not only create a spectacular flower arrangement, but also protect the soil from overheating.

Sometimes clematis flowers suddenly turn green. If the sepals are deformed at the same time, this is a sign of a viral disease. But more often this phenomenon is caused by a lack of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. It is necessary to feed the plants with complex mineral fertilizer containing these elements (1 tablespoon per bucket of water), and green flowers will no longer appear.

Why do clematis leaves turn yellow?

Leaf rust appears as yellow or brown blisters on leaves and stems. As a result, they become deformed, the leaves dry out completely and fall off. At the same time, the plant is not deprived of the ability to form new leaves, in which the process of photosynthesis occurs, so rust does not completely destroy clematis. But from the new season, in the spring, the disease will spread to young shoots, and the bush may die. Therefore, in the fall, complete pruning should be done - to the roots. Even if clematis cannot bloom next year, it will grow new branches over the summer, and there will be flowers a year later, but pruning will allow it to be preserved for the future. At the same time as the diseased shoots, weeds growing nearby are removed; the pathogen can overwinter on them. All affected material is burned. Treatment of leaf rust gives good results if the necessary measures are taken immediately after the appearance and detection of stains. The plant is sprayed with a two percent solution of Bordeaux mixture, oxychome, polychome or copper oxychloride.

Leaf spotting occurs due to pathogenic fungi, and is also manifested by yellowing of the leaves. There are many types of fungi, and it can be difficult to determine which one has affected clematis. Sometimes clematis is “visited” by several pathogens at once, and the leaves become covered with spots of different colors and sizes. But the good thing is that you can destroy them with one drug.

The ascochyta fungus causes dark brown spots on the leaves. Yellow, ocher spots appear due to the cylindrosporium fungus. Septoria appears as gray spots with a red border.

Clean clematis from fungus with preparations containing copper; spray them with copper or iron sulfate in spring and autumn; in summer, one percent Bordeaux mixture and its substitutes are suitable. Affected leaves and shoots are immediately torn off and burned.

Wilting and yellowing of leaves due to fungi located in the roots. This time, the fungi do not infect the leaves directly, but settle in the roots of the clematis, as a result the leaves turn yellow and wither, and the plant dies.

The Phomopsis fungus enters the root from the ground, from there it spreads to the shoots and develops pycnidia, which are a real breeding ground for the fungus. From pycnidia, the fungus spreads to the entire plant.

The verticillium fungus spreads through the roots throughout the plant along with moisture, as a result, the clematis withers, the leaves turn yellow, and then begin to rot.

Yellowing of the leaves can be caused by the fact that the clematis roots are eaten by the larvae of cockchafers or nematodes. Pour it with a weak solution of manganese or water passed through the ash.

Zamioculcas - why leaves turn yellow and how to deal with it

Description of the plant

Zamioculcas, grown at home, reaches 1 m in height, and its life expectancy is from 5 to 10 years. Just like many species of this family, the plant has the shape of a cob. The root system is a large tuber that contains a large supply of moisture. Flowering shrubs at home is almost impossible. It is also necessary to remember that the plant is a toxic species.

One of the most common problems that lovers of this exotic face is yellowing of the leaves of the plant.

Causes of yellowing leaves

Zamioculcas, whose leaves turn yellow, must be grown in certain conditions, failure to comply with which quickly leads to the described problem. First of all, you need to take into account the natural cause, which is associated with the growth of the flower. This plant grows very slowly. Newly appeared young leaves replace old ones, which first turn yellow, then dry out and fall off. This causes a lot of worries for many gardeners. In nature, this is how everything happens, but at home it significantly spoils the decorative appearance of this amazing exotic. Why is this happening?

Natural causes and overwatering

If a flower produces new shoots, and at the same time the leaves turn yellow and fall off, do not worry - this is a natural process. Which is quite obvious, because young leaves are more active and viable. They take all the moisture and nutrients from the soil. It is also worth paying attention to the presence of dark spots on the foliage. If these spots are dry, then you just have to wait until they turn yellow and fall off. At the same time, caring for the plant should be the same.

It is necessary to remove the flower from the pot and carefully remove the rotting parts of the tuber. Then, it is recommended to dry the healthy underground parts and sprinkle them with crushed coal before planting. The plant should only be replanted into new soil.

Drying out the earthen coma can also cause the leaves of Zamioculcas to turn yellow. Damage to root tubers, as well as unsuccessful transplantation, can cause the same reaction. In this case, everything is simple - the plant needs to be provided with regular watering and also fed. And here drugs that stimulate the growth of the root system are ideal:

Even sudden changes in temperature can have a bad effect on a flower: its leaves turn yellow and eventually fall off. Despite the fact that in nature Zamioculcas grows in a wide variety of climatic conditions and temperature conditions, the indoor plant reacts very poorly to sudden changes in temperature. A sharp increase in air temperature is also detrimental for a flower, especially with the onset of the heating season, or the use of heating devices. To do this, it is necessary to humidify the air in the room as much as possible, and also regularly spray the flower with the anti-stress drug Epin.

If the leaves of a zamioculcas bush turn yellow and the branch rapidly begins to wither, this may indicate that the plant has practically no root tubers. Why does this happen? The flower, having used up its root system, simply begins to starve. Here you definitely need to look at the tuber and verify this assumption. If this is the reason, then it is necessary to fertilize. The drug Zircon is ideal for this. Take 2 drops of the drug, mix it with 200 g of water and add it to the irrigation water. The frequency of watering with this liquid should be no more than once every 10 days.

Pests

Zamioculcas is also susceptible to pests and diseases. The most inveterate pests of zamioculcas are: spider mites, scale insects and aphids ( on the picture).

Spraying the plant with Antiklesch, Zircon and Agravertiin is a chemical method.

There are many reasons why it happens that the leaves of Zamioculcas turn yellow. Therefore, this flower needs special and competent care, and then it will delight you with its luxurious dark green foliage all year round.

Diseases and pests of Clematis with photos, methods of combating them

Verticillium wilt

Fusarium wilt

The only secret of protection against diseases.

The main thing is to comply with all requirements for agricultural technology. As soon as wilting appears, it is necessary to clean the plants from the affected parts and water the plants three times with a solution of 0.2-proent foundation (benlat) at the root. To prevent the disease in the future, every autumn and spring you need to water the plants with a foundation solution. This drug effectively slows down the development of fungal pathogens, but it is not able to completely cure. Severely damaged and rotten clematis must be removed along with a lump of earth and the soil must be soaked with a foundation solution.

Rust, powdery mildew and gray mold constitute a group of diseases that manifest themselves in the form of plaque.

Gray rot Clematis is affected in rainy years and is noticeable by brown, very quickly growing spots on shoots and foliage. With an increased level of humidity in the air, brown necrosis becomes covered with spores and fluffy gray mycelium, which are carried by the wind and re-infect neighboring foliage. And since the botrytis mushroom differs from others in its omnivorous nature, gray rot from clematis spreads to other flowering plants. To prevent this disease, you need to collect plant debris, trim off the affected shoots with leaves, and spray the plants with a 0.2 percent solution of foundationazole or azocene. A positive effect can be obtained from autumn and spring spills with foundationazole.

Caring for clematis in the garden consists mainly of correctly placing the growing shoots of the plant on a support and providing optimal conditions for growth and flowering.

Tying up shoots. The growing season of clematis begins when the average daily air temperature rises above 5°C. In the middle zone this happens in the second half of April.

If the shoots of the previous year are preserved, they are lifted, leveled and evenly tied to the supports. Since young shoots break very easily when tied, it is necessary to do it before the vegetative buds bloom.

The growth of new shoots begins in the first ten days of May, but the strongest growth is observed in the second half of May - early June, when the average daily temperature exceeds 10 ° C: per day the length of the shoots increases by 7-10 cm. At the beginning of growth, when the leaves are still fully have not unfolded and the petioles are still short, new shoots do not cling well to the supports. They twist together and form dense plexuses in which the shoots will later lack light. Such spontaneous intertwining of shoots can later become foci of various diseases and pests.

Watering. Most clematis are plants that require normal soil moisture. Lack of water is very dangerous for them in the spring, during the formation of new organs, as it causes weakening of growth and flowering. Therefore, in the spring it is necessary to carefully monitor soil moisture and water the plants in a timely manner.

The plant consumes the greatest amount of water in summer. The huge leaf surface promotes strong transpiration, especially on hot days. Therefore, a lack of water in summer for a plant can be fatal and lead to death, especially in the southern zones of the country. With enough water, clematis can tolerate high air temperatures well. At the same time, the temperature of the leaves remains within normal limits, the assimilation processes proceed actively and the plant does not suffer. With a lack of water, the leaves overheat, assimilation decreases and, as a result, plants starve, which provokes the development of diseases. In the middle zone, watering is necessary on average once a week, in the southern zones - much more often.

However, watering should not be carried out based only on calendar dates, without taking into account soil moisture. As is known, water in the soil is an antagonist of air. In waterlogged soils there is not enough air, and therefore the roots are unable to function normally, that is, to provide plants with nutrients and water. Therefore, on waterlogged soils, the plant also dies as a result of starvation and the inability of the roots to absorb water.

For irrigation, it is better to use water from rain, river, lake or other sources, because the salt content in them is lower than in groundwater. The rate of watering depends on the age of the bushes - in a 7-10 year old plant, the roots reach a meter deep, spreading over a radius of up to 70 cm. It is recommended to first direct the stream of water to the soil near the center of the bush, without watering the shoots and leaves, since fungal spores (if the leaves are affected ) can spread with water and infect healthy shoots. When watering the soil in the center of the bush, fungal spores in a moist, warm substrate multiply quickly and can cause wilting. Therefore, the best watering for clematis is underground.

Loosening the soil. Loosening is closely related to watering and even partially replaces it. As you know, the soil loses moisture not only in the process of transpiration by the plant, but also as a result of its own evaporation. To reduce it, loosen the top layer. At the same time, the soil is enriched with air, which is necessary for intensive work of roots and soil microorganisms.

The first small (2-5 cm) loosening is carried out in the spring to destroy the soil crust and the first weeds. Then loosening is carried out after each watering or each rain. To reduce this labor-intensive work, a subsoil irrigation system is installed or other modern methods are used in which the soil is not compacted.

It is important to follow the correct loosening technology. It is carried out when the soil is moist, but not wet or dry. When wet soil is loosened, a regular coarse-grained structure is formed, and when dry soil is loosened, it turns into dust.

Mulching. This technique partially replaces watering and loosening, since covering the soil helps maintain moisture, improve temperature conditions and aeration, destroy weeds, promote the proliferation of microorganisms and increase fertility.

When mulching, a soil crust does not form and therefore there is no need for loosening.

Until mid-summer, mulched soil retains twice as much productive moisture as soil without mulch. Since mulched soil is looser, it is more moisture-absorbing and retains more moisture after rains and watering.

On slopes, mulching retards soil erosion. Frequent watering helps flush out nutrients, so mulching maintains soil fertility because watering is done less frequently. In mulched soil, a lot of earthworms appear, which, by making passages in the soil, help improve the air regime.

When mulching, the soil does not overheat on hot days, and retains heat on cold days and nights.

Various materials can be used as mulch - peat, manure, humus, compost, moss, straw, leaves, sawdust, etc. Mulch the soil around the bushes without touching the shoots to protect them from fungal diseases.

For clematis, mulching with semi-rotted manure sprinkled with peat on top is very effective, especially where during the growing season the amount of precipitation exceeds evaporation. When mulched during rain or watering, clematis automatically receive adequate nutrition. This promotes strong growth of roots and shoots, abundant flowering and improves the color intensity of flowers. In winter, mulch protects the root system from freezing, especially during icy conditions.

The negative aspects of mulching include the appearance of rodents if straw or leaves are used as mulch. Rodents can damage shoots and roots. When mice appear, you must use poisoned bait.

If sawdust, straw, or leaves are used for mulching, they must be watered with a solution of mineral nitrogen fertilizers, since these materials are decomposed by microorganisms that use soil nitrogen, as a result of which the plants lack this element.

Fertilizer. Compared to other woody plants, clematis has two features: abundant long-term flowering and the annual renewal of almost the entire above-ground mass of vegetative organs - shoots and leaves. This plant consumes a large amount of nutrients. That is why it is necessary that they be present in the soil in sufficient quantities and in the correct proportions. This is achieved by applying basic fertilizer, as well as by regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers in certain phenophases.

The issue of fertilizing clematis has not been sufficiently studied at present. Therefore, the timing, methods, doses and types of fertilizers are recommended based on the general biological characteristics of flowering plants.

For normal growth and development of clematis, it needs 16 elements. Three of them - carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O) - the plant receives from the air during the process of assimilation, as well as through the root system from the soil.

Carbon is an important element found in organic matter. It enters the plant in the form of carbon dioxide through stomata on the leaves and through the root system.

Oxygen is involved in biological oxidation processes, due to which plants receive the energy necessary for their life. The plant receives oxygen through the leaves from the air and through the roots from water and various chemical compounds. Therefore, it is very important that the soil air is sufficiently enriched with oxygen. To do this, you must always maintain the coarse-grained structure of the soil through proper cultivation.

The plant obtains hydrogen from water through its roots and uses it to form almost all organic compounds.

The remaining 13 elements of the plant are obtained mainly through roots from the soil. Depending on the amount of these elements absorbed by the plant, they are distinguished: macroelements - nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S) and microelements - iron (Fe) , manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), cobalt (Co).

For clematis, the greatest need for nitrogen is observed in the phase of strong shoot growth. Nitrogen promotes cell division and delays aging and lignification of their walls.

Due to the fact that the growth of clematis shoots occurs throughout the growing season, nitrogen must be in sufficient quantities in the soil. However, the bulk of the shoots are formed in the spring. Therefore, the plant consumes the greatest amount of nitrogen during this period. In the second half of summer, nitrogen doses are reduced by half. Large doses of nitrogen when applied at the end of the growing season can delay the ripening of shoots, prepare the plant for the dormant period and reduce its winter hardiness.

Very large doses of nitrogen also reduce the plant’s resistance to diseases and pests. At the same time, the shoots grow strongly, the internodes lengthen, the leaves are usually large and soft.

The main sources of nitrogen are manure, humus, peat, green fertilizer (annual plants with large green mass and insecticidal and fungicidal properties - marigolds, marigolds, etc.). Additionally, during the growing season, slurry (1-2 l), bird droppings (0.5-1 l), grass infusion (1-2 l) and mineral fertilizers (15-30 g) are used. Before application, the specified amount of fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water. In spring, it is best to use ammonium nitrate (34.6% nitrogen) or calcium nitrate (18% nitrogen). On soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, ammonium sulfate (21% nitrogen) is used. Urea (46.1% nitrogen) can be used in the form of root and foliar liquid fertilizers. Ammonium chloride (25% nitrogen) is not recommended, as clematis is sensitive to chlorine.

With nitrogen deficiency, the leaves become smaller, lighter, and turn yellow with a reddish tint; shoots, as a rule, are small, with short internodes, and do not grow. The number of buds decreases sharply, the flowers are small and poorly colored. Varieties from the Patens, Lanuginosa, Florida groups, which have abundant flowering on last year's shoots in June, sometimes experience a lack of nitrogen after the first flowering. When optimal doses are applied, growth is normalized, buds form on the shoots of the current year and flowering continues.

Phosphorus is the most important element involved in life processes. It activates the process of carbohydrate synthesis, assimilation, chloroplast formation and chlorophyll synthesis.

In order for all physiological processes of plant life to proceed normally, it is important not only the quantity of each element, but also the correct ratio between them, especially phosphorus and nitrogen, as well as phosphorus and iron.

Basic batteries

Phosphorus deficiency causes leaves to turn brown and turn purple. The shoots develop and ripen poorly and do not overwinter well. The formation of flowers and seed ripening are disrupted, which is very important when breeding clematis.

Phosphorus deficiency is eliminated by applying phosphorus fertilizer - superphosphate, bone meal, etc.

Usually there is an excess of phosphorus in the soil, which causes premature aging of the plant. Phosphorus is an antagonist of many other elements in the soil, especially iron, copper, magnesium, potassium, etc. Therefore, an abundance of phosphorus often causes chlorosis in clematis. To eliminate it, ferrous sulfate is added every 10-15 days. Phosphorus fertilizers are sedentary and, when applied frequently, accumulate in the soil.

For basic soil filling, you can use organic phosphorus fertilizer - bone meal (contains up to 9% phosphorus) or mineral fertilizers - simple superphosphate (8.7% phosphorus) or double superphosphate (22% phosphorus). After planting clematis, if the optimal dose is given during soil preparation, superphosphate is applied only in the second year in the fall.

Potassium activates the synthesis of organic substances in cells, maintains osmotic pressure in tissues, promotes the flow of water into cells, and reduces transpiration.

Potassium deficiency causes browning of the edges of leaves, especially older ones. The flower stalks and pedicels of the buds become brown and even blacken. The buds bend down and die. The color of the flowers becomes lighter. Potassium deficiency is often observed in abundantly flowering varieties (Ville de Lyon, etc.).

Excess potassium causes shortening of internodes, yellowing of old leaves, the formation of buds and flowering is disrupted, the color of flowers deteriorates, roots are damaged, growth stops, the absorption of calcium, magnesium, and manganese is disrupted.

Potassium mineral fertilizers are not washed out of the soil as easily as nitrogen fertilizers. In spring, it is best to use potassium nitrate (38% potassium and 14% nitrogen). Potassium sulfate (45% potassium) is used as the main and additional fertilizer.

Calcium necessary for physiological processes, cell construction and neutralization of organic acids. It also regulates soil acidity and prevents the harmful effects of aluminum and iron ions on the plant, improves the structure and other physical properties of the soil, and activates microbiological processes in it.

The most calcium is contained in leaves and shoots - 0.16-^0.32%, so calcium deficiency disrupts the growth of roots and shoots, they become deformed, their ends soften, darken and even die. Clematis needs calcium most during the intensive growth phase.

If there is a lack of calcium, lime, chalk, dolomite flour, calcium nitrate and other physiologically alkaline fertilizers, for example, stove ash, are added. Calcium nitrate cannot be used on neutral or alkaline soils, as it binds iron, manganese and boron.

With an excess of calcium, plants age prematurely, their leaves fall off and the intensity of flowering decreases.

Calcium is an antagonist of many elements in the soil and prevents their penetration into plants. Thus, excess calcium in the soil leads to a deficiency of potassium, magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc, and boron. For example, in plants of the Nelly Moser variety, toxicosis was observed, caused by the predominance of calcium in the ratio K:Ca:Mn 1:21:3.5 (normal ratio 1:8:2).

Magnesium in plants it is part of chlorophyll and is found in plasma and cell sap. It participates in the processes of photosynthesis and respiration, activates enzymes and carbohydrate synthesis. The supply of phosphorus and its movement in the plant is impossible without magnesium.

Magnesium deficiency causes chlorosis, i.e. yellowing of leaves. Initially, a characteristic mosaic color appears on the lower leaves, the veins remain green. Later, dry necrotic spots appear, small at first, but later covering the entire surface of the leaf. The flowers are small, slightly colored. The edges of the leaves curl upward. In clematis, magnesium deficiency is most often observed on sandy and sandy loam soils in the second half of summer after the first flowering.

The best remedy for treating magnesium chlorosis is magnesium sulfate, which is used for fertilizing, including foliar feeding.

Excess magnesium causes damage to roots, slows down their growth, the formation of root lobes and, in connection with this, the absorption of nutrients, and shoot growth decreases. Magnesium is an antagonist of calcium, potassium and iron.

Sulfur is an indispensable nutritional element. It is part of all proteins, amino acids, enzymes and vitamins. The most (70%) sulfur is found in chloroplasts.

With a lack of sulfur, the leaves turn yellow. Unlike nitrogen starvation, with sulfur deficiency, the lower leaves do not die. First, the youngest leaves turn yellow, later others, and necrotic spots appear along the edges.

The lack of sulfur is eliminated by applying sulfur-containing fertilizers - ammonium sulfate, calcium sulfate (gypsum), etc. All of them are physiologically acidic, therefore they are effective on carbonate, as well as on neutral and slightly acidic soils. Sulfur enters plants from the air through leaves in the form of dioxide.

Although iron is not part of chlorophyll, it plays an important role in the synthesis of chlorophyll.

Iron deficiency causes chlorosis, which begins with the upper leaves and gradually progresses downwards. The veins remain dark green, and light chlorotic spots appear between them; the tissue dies off along the edges of the leaves. The plants are blooming, but the flowers are abnormally light in color.

An abundance of calcium in the soil leads to iron deficiency. There are temporary and chronic chlorosis.

The first form is often observed in the spring, when the roots function poorly due to low soil temperatures or there is a lot of phosphorus in the soil. Later, when the soil warms up, chlorosis disappears.

The chronic form of chlorosis is caused by an abundance of calcium, i.e., the alkaline reaction of the soil. Due to the fact that clematis's root system penetrates into the deep layers of the soil, it is able to absorb calcium from there. Therefore, there is no particular need for strong liming of the upper layers of the soil, as this causes chlorosis of plants.

In poor soils, chlorosis can be caused by excess copper or lack of moisture in the soil, resulting in the plant not receiving enough iron.

Chlorosis as a result of iron deficiency is also observed in clematis varieties such as Yellow Queen, Lasurstern, Nelly Moser, Gipsy Queen, etc. The application of iron sulfate (20 g/10 l of water) 3-4 times every 10 days eliminates chlorosis.

The toxic effect of iron is observed only on strongly acidic soils with a pH below 5. In this case, the leaves become dark or blue-green, necrosis (death) begins without preliminary symptoms. The growth of shoots and leaves is slowed down. Despite the increased pigmentation of the leaves, the intensity of assimilation decreases, but respiration increases.

Excess iron can lead to deficiencies of phosphorus, manganese, zinc, copper and molybdenum in plants. Optimal soil reaction reduces iron toxicity.

Manganese participates in the assimilation process, activates enzymes, increases the plant’s resistance to high temperatures. A lack of manganese causes chlorosis of the plant with the same symptoms as with a lack of iron, but simultaneously on young and old leaves.

Manganese deficiency is more common in carbonate soils. It is eliminated by adding manganese sulfate (contains 19.8%).

Excess manganese makes it difficult for plants to absorb iron. The optimal ratio of iron and manganese in the soil is 5-10:1. With increasing acidity, the iron content increases (10:1). When feeding, the optimal ratio of iron and manganese is 7-8:1.

Zinc is part of many enzymes, participates in the synthesis of growth stimulants and promotes the process of photosynthesis.

A lack of zinc is often observed on overly limed soils, where iron and manganese deficiency often occurs. Excess phosphorus also causes zinc deficiency. At the same time, the length of internodes in clematis decreases and growth stops. The addition of zinc sulfate (22.8% zinc) can eliminate these symptoms.

Copper is part of many enzymes that promote redox processes; participates in photosynthesis and metabolism.

A lack of copper is most often observed when large doses of fresh manure or humus are added, since copper is easily bound by organic substances.

Copper deficiency is eliminated with copper sulfate (25.4% copper).

Bor takes part in metabolism, promotes cell division and the development of generative organs.

It has been established that an increased content of boron is observed in the stigmas of pistils, which promotes pollen germination.

Boron deficiency often occurs with frequent watering, as this element is washed out from the upper soil horizon. Boron deficiency is eliminated by adding boric acid (17.5% boron).

Excess boron most often occurs after heavy fertilization with manure and slurry.

Molybdenum participates in oxygen exchange and promotes calcium absorption.

A lack of molybdenum retards growth and generative shoots develop poorly.

The deficiency is eliminated by adding sodium molybdate (40% molybdenum) or ammonium molybdate (44% molybdenum).

Overview of the meaning of individual elements. nutrition indicates that normal plant development requires a certain amount of both macro- and microelements. The absence of any element or its excess causes disruption of growth and development or disease of the plant. Only the optimal ratio of macro- and microelements ensures abundant flowering and viability of clematis.

The amount of nutrients a plant receives depends not only on their content in the soil, but also on the development of the root system and the physical properties of the soil.

If the soil is well reclaimed, loose and rich in humus, the root system of clematis penetrates to a depth of 80-100 cm. On podzolic, clayey, gley soils, the root system develops in a layer of up to 30 cm and cannot provide the plant with a sufficient amount of nutrients. On well-cultivated soils, the total root mass is 3 times greater than on poorly cultivated soils. In sandy and loamy soils, the bulk of the roots (50-70%) are located in a layer up to 20 cm. With depth, the number of roots gradually decreases: at a depth of 20-50 cm it reaches 25-34%, deeper than 50 cm - 5-17% of the total mass roots.

Despite the fact that in deep layers the mass of roots is not particularly large, their functional role is quite significant. They contribute to uniform nutrition and provision of water in dry weather. The radius of spread of the clematis root system in width reaches about 60-70 (100) cm from the center of the bush. Old plants have a very dense root system. The roots are located close to each other, which makes it difficult to provide the plant with nutrition. In these cases, it is necessary to divide the bush or apply a fertilizer solution to a depth of 10-40 cm at least once a week. For this, a special drill is used, with which vertical holes with a diameter of 10-15 cm are made. They are filled with large gravel, crushed stone or fascines made from branches.

The distribution of nutrients in different soil horizons is not the same. Most of them are at a depth of 0-30 cm.

Since phosphorus is a sedentary element, the difference in its content along soil horizons is especially noticeable. In the upper layers, the amount of phosphorus is 10-20 times greater than in the lower ones, especially in poorly cultivated soils, where the toxic effect of large doses of this element is often manifested. In well-cultivated aerated soils, the distribution of nutrients across horizons does not differ greatly, and therefore the root system develops in depth. On such soils, the vitality of plants is high, flowering is annual and abundant.

Trimming. It is necessary to obtain long-term and abundant flowering, control the timing of flowering, biological renewal of the bush and harmonious spatial distribution of shoots.

The degree of pruning depends on the difference in the biological properties of clematis from different systematic groups. Depending on the characteristics of pruning and the intensity of flowering, clematis are combined into three groups.

First trimming group. This group includes clematis, in which flowers form on the shoots of the previous year. On the shoots of the current year, flowers sometimes appear in small quantities. This group includes species and varieties of the Atragene, Montana, etc. groups, which are grown without pruning or after flowering the generative part of the shoot is cut off. If the bush is very dense, some of the faded, weaker shoots are cut to the ground. This promotes the development of more vital shoots from the current year, which will bloom next year.

Before sheltering for the winter, only the generative part of the current year’s shoots is cut off and weak shoots are completely cut out.

Second group of pruning. This group includes clematis, in which flowers develop both on the current year’s shoots and on last year’s shoots. These include the Lanuginosa, Florida, Patens groups. They experience early

flowering at the end of May - June on the shoots of the previous year, the flowers are large, the flowering time is short. The second, or summer, flowering occurs on the shoots of the current year. It is abundant, begins in July and continues until autumn.

To ensure long flowering, pruning is carried out in two steps. First, in the summer, the generative part of the shoot of the previous year is cut off after flowering; if the bush is very dense, cut out the entire shoot.

The current year's shoots are pruned before sheltering for the winter. Depending on the density of the bush or to obtain early flowering next year, varying degrees of pruning are used. Only the generative part of the current year's shoot is removed if they want to achieve early flowering. This method is used in clematis breeding to lengthen the ripening period of seeds.

The average degree of pruning - to the first true leaf, strong - removal of the entire shoot is used when adjusting the number of shoots and the uniformity of flowering next year.

Third group of pruning. This group includes clematis, in which the bulk of flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year. These include the Jackmanii groups. Viticella, Recta. They bloom from July to mid-September. Maximum flowering is observed in late July - August.

Pruning this group is very simple: before sheltering for the winter, all shoots are cut off to the first true leaf or to the base.

This group also includes herbaceous and semi-shrub clematis, whose shoots die off at the end of the growing season. The next year they grow back without pruning. However, uncut dead shoots worsen the decorative appearance of the bush, so it is better to cut them down to the base of the shoot in the fall.

Pruning clematis is also used to limit the spread of disease. This is usually done during the main pruning, when all diseased shoots are removed, but sometimes it is also necessary to cut out diseased shoots during the growing season to limit the incidence of disease.

When propagating by cuttings, you also have to prune clematis bushes during the growing season. After pruning, the bushes are fed with mineral fertilizers to enhance shoot growth.

Individual shoots are pinched when it is necessary to delay flowering. During selection, pruning methods are combined to achieve earlier flowering for pollination, sometimes later, and good seed ripening. This often reduces the intensity of flowering. For a good harvest and obtaining full-fledged seeds, flowering must be limited.