How to make grooves in wood. Connection of bars: tenon - groove. Straight box tenons

Once you've mastered carpentry skills, it's great to show off your homemade furniture to family and friends. What could be more pleasant than touching a razor-sharp blade, inhaling the smell of wood, feeling its texture, and then making a clean, fresh cut!

This article covers basic carpentry techniques. How to use carpentry tools to get various shapes, joints and textures of wood. If you're unsure of a technique or type of wood, it's worth experimenting with scrap wood. Put your workshop in order and maintain it. Some craftsmen sharpen before starting a new project hand tool, clean the workshop and clean all their tools and machines.

Wood preparation and marking

Once you've decided what you'll be doing, separate your carefully selected and planed lumber into groups. Mark each piece according to its future location in the product, marking the top, bottom, front surfaces and best edges. Using a pencil and tape measure, mark the sections of the required length, and use a square to mark the cut lines. Use a compass to draw arcs and circles. Using a dividing compass, transfer the dimensions from the drawing to the wood.

If you need to make the board narrower or mark a joint, set the thicknesser to the desired division and scratch the mark by moving the thicknesser along the edge of the workpiece. Use a small pencil to mark lines running at oblique angles. If you need paired parts, mark them at the same time and remember that one part should be a mirror image of the second. Use a knife to mark connections.

Curved cuts

Can be done with an electric hacksaw, jigsaw or band saw. The hacksaw is good for large radius cuts and thick wood, when the cutting line goes away from the edges.

Hacksaws are equipped with rotating bases that change the cutting angle, and depending on the type and thickness of the material, different saw blades should be used. For curved cuts of small radius and with wood thickness less than 50 mm, use a jigsaw or jigsaw.

Install the new file and tighten it until it rings when you click it with your finger. If you need to cut an opening, you can do two things: either start cutting from the edge, or, if you do not need to touch the edge, first drill a hole in the part to be removed, then release one end of the file, pass it through the hole made and clamp and tighten again.

For precise and accurate drilling of large holes, use drilling machine and Forstner drills. Mark the center of the hole, attach the corresponding drill bit and set the depth stop. Then press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench (this will take some time, but it will be completely worth it). If the hole is deep, lift the drill bit several times as you work to remove waste and keep overheating to a minimum. If you have to drill a lot of holes in identical parts, it is useful to make a template from scraps of wood, which is attached with clamps to the work table of the machine.

To drill holes for screws and installation holes for nails, you should use a drill, and it is more convenient to use a cordless drill. If you need to screw in a lot of screws, install the screwdriver included with this tool into the drill chuck.

Planing by hand

Planing is a lot of fun when the blade is sharp and you have enough time. The jointer is ideal for planing along the grain. Don't forget to secure the workpiece on the workbench. Make a test pass, make sure the blade is set to the correct depth, and then get to work.

A face plane is good for finishing sharp edges and for cleaning up ends. Position the blade so that it cuts the finest chips. When processing the end sections, try not to stray to the side and avoid chipping.

Selecting grooves manually

Mark the groove using a pencil, ruler, square and possibly the point of a knife, transfer the workpiece to the workbench of the drill press and use a suitable size drill bit to drill out the main part of the unnecessary wood.

Remove the shavings, clamp the workpiece in a vice and remove the remaining unwanted wood with a chisel, holding the tool vertically. By the way, there is an excellent one.

The groove can be selected using a cutter, and the working technique depends on the size and location of the groove. The router can be held in your hands and moved along the workpiece; when selecting an open groove, attach it to the work table and move the workpiece. In this case, the accuracy of the work will depend on the position of the guide bar (stop) and the height of the cutter. Always make a test pass using scrap wood. It is best to select a groove in stages and make several passes. After each pass, remove sawdust to avoid overheating the cutter.

Carving a tenon by hand

Mark the shoulder lines (the length of the tenon) with a square and a knife, then use a thicknesser to mark the height and width of the tenon. Remove any unwanted wood with a tenon saw. First, make cuts along the grain to the shoulder line on all four sides of the tenon. Then trim the tenon along the shoulder line across the grain. Clean the tenon with a chisel.

If you have a lot of tenons to cut (or if you just like working with machines), a table router is the ideal tool. If the large size of the workpiece does not allow it to be placed on the milling table, it is better to press it with clamps to the workbench and process it while holding the router in your hands. Set the fence to the length of the tenon and the router to the desired height, then, holding the workpiece firmly against the fence, remove the excess wood in several passes. When the end of the tenon rests against the stop, turn the workpiece over and repeat the procedure with reverse side. If you stop before the cutter reaches the shoulder line, trim the tenon with a chisel.

To select a groove 6mm wide and 4mm deep at a distance of 10mm from the edge of the board, do this. Attach the router to your workbench and install a 6mm router bit. Set the guide bar to 10mm. Adjust the height of the cutter so that it is 2mm above the table. Make a pass along the guide to create a 2mm deep groove. Turn off the router, raise the cutter another 2 mm and repeat the pass. You will get a groove 4 mm deep.

To select a rebate with a width of 10 mm and a depth of 4 mm, proceed as follows. You will need a straight cutter that is smaller than the width of the rebate (for example, 5mm in diameter). Set the stop at a distance of 5 mm from the rear edge of the cutter, and the cutter at a height of 2 mm. Place the board against the stop and select a 5 mm wide fold. Repeat the pass, still resting the board against the stopper, to obtain a 10mm wide fold. Switch off the router, set the bit to a height of 4 mm and repeat the procedures to complete the fold.

Press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench. Select a cutter that matches the width of the groove or a smaller size and set the depth stop. Using clamps, press a wooden strip parallel to the groove onto the workpiece, which will serve as a guide. Lower the router, press its base against the guide, turn it on, wait until the router reaches full speed, and make a pass. If the cutter is narrower than the groove, move the guide and repeat the procedure until you get the required width and depth of the groove.

Milling shaped edges

Cutting shaped edges with a router is very simple. Attach the router to its table and insert the cutter of your choice - round, radius or shaped. Use a cutter with a support roller.

Move the stop so that it is not in the way. Press the workpiece against the table and make several passes with the cutter from left to right. Continue milling until the workpiece begins to press against the support roller - at this point the cutter stops cutting. If the shaped edge looks burnt, it means either the cutter is dull or you were pulling the workpiece too slowly.

Milling according to template

Use a template if you need to make several parts with the same edges. First, cut out the approximate shapes with a saw, leaving no more than 4-5 mm of excess wood on the edges to be milled. Install the guide roller on the base of the router. Cut a template from plywood with an allowance for the edges and nail it directly to the surface of the workpiece. Turn on the router and guide it along the edge of the template.

As a template, you can take an already made part and use a straight-cut cylindrical cutter with a support roller (it can be on top or bottom of the cutter).

This saw makes it easy to make cuts at any angle. Place the cutting blade on the frame at the required angle (90, 45, 36, 22.5 or 15°) and fix it. Set the depth gauge to the desired mark. Place the workpiece on the saw table, press it against the fence, and then make the cut using smooth back and forth movements.

Inspect the workpiece and decide where exactly you need to drive the nail. If this area is close to the edge and there is a danger of splitting the wood, use an electric drill to first drill an installation hole using a drill whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the nail. Then use a suitable sized hammer to drive in the nail. If the nail is crooked, pull it out with a nail puller or pliers. If you are driving very small nails that are difficult to hold with your fingers, use pliers to hold them in place.

Driving screws

You have a choice of mild steel, stainless steel, brass or aluminum screws with straight or Phillips slots and countersunk or pan heads. Semicircular heads stand out clearly on the surface of the wood, countersunk heads are either flush with the surface, or edged with brass washers, or hidden by wooden plugs. The screws are screwed in with a hand screwdriver, a drill with an appropriate attachment, or a screwdriver.

When using a drill, install the locking mechanism so that the screw is screwed in to the required depth. If the wood is soft, the installation hole can be made with an awl; if it is hard, drill it with a drill of a smaller diameter.

To be able to hide the screws under the wooden plugs, you will have to drill a hole for the plug with a countersink drill and a corresponding cutter for the plug. Don't use steel screws on oak - they react with the wood and moisture and cause stains. Instead, choose plated steel, brass, or stainless steel screws.

If you want to make round parts (chair legs, bowls, plates), you cannot do without lathe. Buy the most powerful and heaviest machine your budget can afford - with an adjustable chuck and faceplate set. Spindle-shaped and cylindrical parts are turned by securing the workpiece between the front and rear centers of the machine, bowls or plates - on the outside of the spindle.

The best lathes are equipped with a device that allows you to turn large workpieces on the outside of the spindle. You will need a variety of turning tools - a chisel, a cut-off cutter, an oblique chisel and a radius scraper.

To cut door handle or latch, you won't need anything more than a good sharp knife (not stainless steel). Hold the workpiece in one hand, the knife in the other and cut the wood, pressing on the back of the blade with your thumb. The rest is a matter of skill. To practice, first experiment with soft linden wood, for example.

Installing hinges

The two most common types of hinges are decorative brass overlay hinges (attached with countersunk screws that are screwed flush to the surface) and steel mortise hinges (attached into sockets with steel countersunk screws). In the latter case, outline the hinge flap with the point of a knife, cut the outline with a chisel, and then select the wood with a chisel to the desired depth. The sash should fit tightly in the socket. Always buy suitable screws along with the hinges.

Sanding wood

To obtain smooth surfaces, numerous types of sandpaper (sandpaper) are used. The skin can be used either on its own or wrapped around a block of wood. It is best to sand the wood several times - after sawing, after the glue has dried and after final finishing.

For the first sanding, use regular sandpaper, for finishing - fine sandpaper based on aluminum oxide (it is more expensive, but lasts much longer). For sanding large flat surfaces, use a cylindrical grinder. Work in a well-ventilated area and be sure to wear a dust mask.

Natural wood finish

Originally, the term "natural finish" meant that the wood was sanded and left to in kind, now this concept also includes oil or wax treatment. Danish or teak oil is applied in a thin layer with a lint-free cotton cloth or brush.

Allow to dry and sand with the finest sandpaper to remove the “ridges” (the rough texture of raised wood fibers that occurs when the first coat of finish is absorbed), then apply a second thin coat. If you want to make the surface less hard, rub it with wax mastic.

When finishing items that will come into contact with food, use a vegetable oil, such as olive oil, instead of teak or Danish oil. Rub it in with a cloth.

You have a choice between mineral spirits oil paint and waterborne acrylic paint. Both types of paint are applied with a brush. The visual difference between surfaces painted with one paint or another is very small, however, after working with oil paint, brushes should be washed with white spirit, and then acrylic paint- running water.

Oil paint fumes can cause dizziness and nausea, while acrylic paint fumes can cause a dry throat. Regardless of the type of paint you use, wear a respirator and work outdoors if possible.

Special types of wood finishing

When working with American oak, you can get an interesting texture by wire brushing the wood. The texture is pleasant to the touch, and the resulting rough surface means you don't have to worry about damage from pets' claws.

The brush is moved along the fibers until there are no untreated areas left on the surface, after which it is rubbed with oil.

A candle flame finish helps hide the imperfections of low-quality wood. Oil varnish is applied to the painted surface with a brush. After a while it dries out and becomes sticky, and then a burning candle is passed under the surface. Be sure to wait until the surface becomes sticky (it should show fingerprints) and keep the can of polish and brush away from the candle. It is better to do this work together somewhere away from the workshop. Practice on scraps before you get started with any serious work.

Another master class, I must say that it is quite detailed and no less useful from Alexander. Today we will talk about tenon joints. Straight tenon is the basis of carpentry. Our lesson today will tell you how to do it in a homemade environment (and at the same time in an equipped carpentry workshop).

Let's look at the basic principles of making a tenon joint using the example of two workpieces, one wide and one narrow, the thickness of all parts will be 30 mm. First, mark the width of the workpieces. Then you need to set aside the hangers, usually this is 1/3 of the material - step back 1 cm inward, make a note
It is most convenient to mark using a carpenter's square
If everything is simple with a narrow workpiece, then for a wide workpiece it is necessary to make a segmented tenon (for better grip). Segmented, that is, consisting of several small spines. To do this, we find the center
we retreat 1 cm in each direction, i.e. on the shoulder, mark.
This is what we get. The shaded parts will be highlighted.
The depth of the groove should be half the depth of the stand, in this case it is 30 mm, but it should be 2-3 mm deeper so that the glue has room to exit. Mark the depth on the drill with electrical tape. The drill is positioned in the center of the workpiece.

Using a drilling and additive machine - we have already considered this. (by the way, you can use a regular drilling machine). First, we drill several adjacent holes.

Then, moving the workpiece from side to side with a recessed drill, we cut off the remaining jumpers.
This is how the groove is made - using a primitive drilling and grooving device. Of course, it is not perfectly beautiful, and the edges are rounded, but it has precisely specified dimensions and is located exactly in the center of the workpiece.
In a professional workshop, such a slotting machine is used.

This is how the groove is made - using a professional drilling and grooving device, after which there is no need to round the tenons
Let's move on to preparing the spikes themselves. Let's start with an amateur technique - sawing out a tenon on a circular saw with a carriage.

First, we make a cut along the marking line, then, by moving the workpiece, we gradually remove excess material.

We turn the workpiece over and repeat the manipulations on all sides.

The result is such a neat spike. But it needs to be improved a little
There are two ways to get the tenon into the groove. The first is to take a chisel and gouge out the rounding of the groove
or the second option is to take a rasp and round the edges of the tenon to fit the groove
We make wide workpieces using a professional device - a milling cutter with a wide cutter.

We go around the thorn from all sides in the same way. Everything is done in one pass - much faster than with a carriage.

We segment the spike with the same circular saw.

We remove the gap by adjusting the disc offset.

Well, the tenon and groove are made, let's move on to connecting them. It should be adhesive.

When gluing, it is necessary to lubricate the groove from the inside or the eye, and it is also necessary to lubricate the surface of the tenon.

“I do not recommend lubricating the end of the workpiece, because it still won’t stick to the surface - only the spike and the inner surface of the eyelet will hold it. There is no need to lubricate a lot, because the tenon and eyelet will swell under the influence of the water contained in the glue, thus creating conditions for a strong seam.”

Both the tenon and the eye should be lubricated.

then using a press (vayma). In the absence of one, the whole process can be carried out with a mallet.
Wipe off excess glue

We carry out the same manipulations with a wide workpiece: apply glue, connect

making money

We press it in.

Summarize:

• When making tenon joints and frame structures, it is necessary to make the stand longer, i.e. leave tails. The tail of the stand should be longer than your facade on each side by one thickness of material, this is done so that the workpiece does not separate along the fibers during pressing.
• For wide workpieces it is necessary to use a segmental tenon. The thickness of the tenon is always made according to standards - 1/3 of the thickness of the material, at least 1/4 of the thickness of the material is allowed. The shoulders are 1/3 of the thickness of the material, the gap between the tenons is 2/3 of the thickness of the material.
• In any case, the spike should be thicker. For coniferous (soft) species it is 0.2 mm thicker, for hardwoods it is 0.1 mm thicker, all this is due to wood shrinkage.

When making homemade wooden furniture, the craftsman is faced with the need to make high-quality tenon joints. The tenon connection of parts is the highest quality and most reliable. And although in Lately more and more furniture is made and assembled using metal corners, the thorn does not give up its position. Not many people can simply make high-quality spikes. If a person can do them, we can say that he has already established himself as a carpenter.

In industry, studs are said to be “cut” using special precision equipment. At home, it is, of course, not available. Therefore, many craftsmen who make simple garden and country furniture, sacrifice quality for simplicity. Let me also remind you that tenons are cut in the vast majority of cases only along the wood fibers. If the tenon is made narrow and across the fibers, it will definitely chip. To prevent it from chipping, the width of the tenon should be at least 15-20 times the thickness of the part. This requirement does not apply to plywood. You can cut tenons of any width into plywood, but it is desirable that the outer layers are also oriented along the tenon.

Meanwhile, for a long time there has been a fairly simple method that allows even a novice carpenter to quickly and efficiently make tenon joints of wooden parts. This method was proposed by Yu.A. Egorov. The essence of the method is quite simple and understandable.

Let's say we need to make a finger joint between two parts. For convenience, in the drawings I colored them in different colors.

A prerequisite for quality tenon joint production is the fact that each saw has a specific cutting width. It is determined by the size of the tooth set. It can be measured by making several cuts in some piece of wood. Or you can directly use the saw to take measurements when making tenons.

On each part we apply a mark to the depth of the cut; it is equal to the thickness of the parts. If the parts are the same in thickness, then the depth of cut in each part will be the same. If the parts have different thicknesses, then the depths of the cuts will be different. In a thin part the cuts are deeper (equal to the thickness of the thick part), in a thick part they are shallower.

The parts are folded face to face so that the ends coincide, and relative to each other along the side edges they are shifted to the width of the cut of the saw that we will use to make tenons. (Not the thickness of the saw blade, but the width of the cut!). We secure the parts in a vice or workbench and make random cuts evenly across the entire width of the parts. If the parts are of different thicknesses, we make cuts to a depth equal to the thickness of the thin part. (We will finish the thin part separately later). We try to make cuts as much as possible along the axis of the part, avoiding the taper of the tenons.

After this, we release the parts and again shift them relative to each other by the width of the cut, but only in the other direction. By the way, if we now make a shift by an amount slightly less than the width of the cut, then we will subsequently obtain a tight tenon joint, which is important for furniture. And if we move the parts a little more than the width of the cut, we will get a free tenon joint. The tenons of the parts will fit freely into the grooves of the other part. This circumstance is important in the manufacture of detachable connections (on a stud) or rotary connections.

Ignoring the old cuts, we make new ones, approximately in the middle of the existing tenons. We also observe the depth of the cuts and especially carefully their length.

After this, we release the parts and adjust the depth of the cuts to the required value (for a thin part, if the parts are of different thicknesses). Using a chisel, we carefully remove excess tenons (look carefully and do not remove the ones you need!), and clean the ends in the grooves.

After this, the parts can be joined.

Permanent connections are usually made with glue. For wooden parts, wood glue or PVA glue are perfect. They will maintain a reliable connection even if the parts get wet or the moisture content of the wood increases. If the parts will be used in a dry room, epoxy resins (adhesives) can also be used.

After the glue has hardened, the joint is cleaned, sanded and processed in the same way as the entire product.

If the connection is planned to be detachable or rotating (for example, you are making blinds or an accordion door from boards or panels), then before starting assembly, you need to round the ends of the tenons so that their corners do not rest against the grooves when turning. In non-rotating but detachable connections, this is, of course, not necessary.

Having connected the parts, all the tenons are simultaneously drilled with a long thin drill. Its diameter should be equal to the diameter of the pin (nail) that you will use as an axis or fastening.

Using this method of making tenon joints, you can quickly, easily and most importantly, make very high quality tenons on the parts of your garden furniture.

Dovetail, detachable tenon joint (trapezoidal grooves), used in mechanical engineering and carpentry for reliable fastening of parts to each other. In this material we will consider the manufacture of devices that facilitate the production of grooves in wood using a hand router.

DIY accessories for a wood router

The machine itself is a very ancient invention of mankind, descriptions of the principles of milling appeared in the 16th century, and the prototype of the machine was the invention of Leonardo da Vinci, who proposed rotating a round file to increase the processing of the product, which can be considered the first analogue of a milling cutter.

And already the American inventor Eli Whitney, over the years of his life from 1765 to 1825, brought to fruition all the scattered attempts to create a full-fledged machine, for which he is rightfully considered the creator of the first milling machine, although not all scientists agree with this statement.

And since the machine has such ancient roots, there are a great many adaptations for the manufacture of various parts, it is not possible to describe them all in the light of this material, and therefore we will consider only some of them, in my opinion, the most important and useful.

Universal device for tongue and groove connection

factory plate for making a tongue and groove connection

Used with a router to cut the corresponding grooves and tenons, it is installed in a vice and the part is pressed against the device with a clamp. Typically sold in stores.

connection appearance

Consider devices for milling grooves

Cut it out top part– a tabletop made of 18 mm plywood, 40 cm long and sufficiently wide to handle the thickest workpiece that you plan to join with a tenon.

Cut two 5x10 cm bars, sawing them to the same length as the top. The bars will subsequently play the role of pressing the workpiece and centering it relative to the groove in the tabletop. To prepare the top, draw a line down the center of the top, then rout a mortise along the line at one end.

schematic representation of equipment

note

The notch should be the same width as the copy ring you will use with your router bit. The notch should be long enough to match the length of the longest groove you will be cutting.

Then mill two adjustment slots perpendicular to the center line. Finally, drill an inspection hole between these two slots. To assemble the entire structure, screw the bolts into the jaws and secure the top to the bars with wing nuts and washers.

To use our equipment, draw a groove on the workpiece and mark the center line on it. Loosen the screws and place the workpieces between the bars so that the center line is connected to the top line of the jig, check that the edge of the workpiece is opposite the edge of the top.

Pinch the lambs. Align the router bit to one end of the mortise drawing, then mark guide lines on the top surface of the table along the edge of the router base.

How to work correctly with tongue and groove equipment

Repeat this again to mark the lines of the other end. Route the slot by starting the cut at the bottom by aligning the router base with the first construction line, and stop routing when the insert reaches the second construction line.