Newspapers will save from late blight. Ways to combat phytophthora. Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes

Every year, phytophthora leaves many hardworking summer residents without a crop. You cherish, you cherish the seedlings, you take them to the dacha in an electric train or bus, you worry that no one will step on them, damage the plants ... And the disease comes - and there is no harvest, all the work is in vain. But together we are strong, aren't we friends?

Copper instead of mulch

For several years in a row, we bought seedlings in the market or from roadside vendors. The harvest was small, because. seedlings, most likely, have already been infected with phytophthora. Merchants often take it in greenhouses, and there it may have been damp and cold. And my wife and I decided to grow tomato seedlings ourselves.

They built a greenhouse measuring 4×2 m from wooden window frames, which are full in the yards of apartment buildings (now many people are changing wooden windows to metal-plastic ones). Two beds were made in the greenhouse, a passage in the center. On one we grow seedlings of tomatoes, cabbage, beets, on the other - cucumbers. We plant everything on April 15-20 (what day Saturday falls). The first year in the greenhouse, everything grew very slowly, although it was warm. Later, I realized that the heat comes out at night in the cracks between the frames. The next year, I covered the frames with plastic wrap, and the tomato seedlings grew well and quickly.

Seedlings are watered only with warm water under the root. So that she does not get sick in the greenhouse, we treat her once with a fungicide. We don’t pick a pick: I think that this is extra stress for the plants. We plant tomatoes on the beds as soon as they reach a height of 30-40 cm. We dip the seedlings taken out of the greenhouse with their roots into the fungicide solution.

In the prepared holes in the garden (our beds are narrow and long - for two rows), we put the rotted mullein and a spoonful of ash, pour plenty of warm water. We plant long seedlings obliquely into oblong holes to form a powerful root system. This completes the first landing stage.

Next, we make sure that grass (weeds) does not grow in the garden, we remove it in a timely manner. After rains on a clean bed, the earth dries out faster from the sun and wind. Loosen the ground as needed. Some summer residents recommend mulching tomatoes, but this cannot be done!

Phytophthora is just waiting for dampness to form under the mulch. In hot, sunny weather, pour warm water under the root in the morning. We feed only once, when the ovaries appear, with instant complex fertilizers with trace elements. It is better that there is more phosphorus in the fertilizer, tomatoes love it.

Every time after prolonged rains, drizzle and fog, we treat tomatoes with copper-containing preparations. We stop processing two weeks before ripening. We stop watering as soon as the tomatoes begin to turn red, otherwise the fruits will crack. By the way, no home-grown drugs can cope with late blight. We tried everything: infusions of garlic and onion peel, celandine, nettle, wormwood, solutions of soda with soap, potassium permanganate, iodine, and much more, including metronidazole tablets. Zero effect. It may be effective in areas with dry climates. There is another way to deal with phytophthora. Some summer residents in the suburbs of Vladivostok stretch plastic wrap over a bed of tomatoes - they make a roof. This protects the tomatoes from waterlogging, which causes late blight. But I believe that tomatoes grown in this way are more like greenhouse ones.

Vegetables grown outdoors are much tastier and sweeter than any greenhouse ones.

Universal garter

With the beginning of the formation of ovaries, we tie the tomatoes to the trellises. We drive in metal bars from the reinforcement along the edges of the beds and pull the wire or cable (photo 1). We grow only undersized tomatoes of old varieties: Novichok, Volgograd, Khabarovsk pink, Pepper yellow, etc. Seeds are selected from the best fruits.

Hybrids are avoided. Modern hybrids are derived by genetic engineering, so these tomatoes contain GMOs. And what kind of animal, science does not yet know. By the way, low-growing tomatoes have lower yields than tall ones, but chemicals to combat late blight require three to four times less. We do not step-child tomatoes, we regularly cut off dried and yellowed leaves, with the beginning of ripening we remove all leaves and shoots from below to the lower fruit.

By growing tomatoes in this way, even in coastal waterlogged soil, you can be sure to get good yields. For example, last year, when Primorsky Krai was covered by typhoon Goni, and after it passed for a week it was cloudy with drizzle and fog, we collected 20 ten-liter buckets of tomatoes! And driving past other summer cottages, I saw that after the typhoon in many gardens, tomato bushes turned black, and the fruits rotted. In seasons without typhoons, our harvest is 30-40 buckets. By the way, we do not sell tomatoes and other vegetables from the dacha, but we make preparations. From tomatoes we prepare up to 20 three-liter cans of juice. After harvesting, we pull out the bushes and burn them. We remove all garbage from the beds and disinfect the earth, this will be discussed further.

Planned disinfection

In small summer cottages it is very difficult to organize a crop rotation. And in areas located on the slopes, where the beds are usually fenced with flat slate, it is even more difficult. Sometimes the configuration of the beds does not allow crop rotation. For example, in our dacha, tomato beds are narrow and long, with stretched trellises, and potatoes are square ... In order to prevent contamination of the earth with pathogenic microbes, we disinfect it every year. First of all, this applies to the beds of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers.

So what are we doing? After harvesting and removing all vegetation from the beds, we water them from a watering can with a copper-containing preparation. The next year after harvesting, sprinkle with potassium chloride, boronim and immediately cover with a new (without holes!) Plastic wrap. We put bricks along the edges of the film in the furrow. It seems to me that chlorine kills all the filth in the ground. With the first frosts, we remove the film so that the chlorine disappears over the winter. For the next season, we exclude potash fertilizers in dressings, otherwise their excess will form. At the end of the third season, we water the beds with phyto-sporin. Treatment with drugs can not be done every season if the plants do not get sick and you have a good harvest. But in the greenhouse, the ground and structures must be disinfected annually!

DVD discs hung over the bed are well repelled from cabbage by cabbage butterflies (photo 2). They give such a powerful glare that all whites fly sideways.

It is better to tie discs through a small hole drilled at the edge of the disc.

Tomatoes grow best on slightly acidic soil, so you can’t pour a lot of fluffy lime and ash on the beds.

In order for bell pepper to grow well and bear fruit, the beds must be fenced with glazed frames. In this case, it is less blown by the wind (bell pepper does not like windy weather).

Wooden pegs for garter tomatoes, when reused, must be disinfected with a fungicide solution.

PS: After reading my article, many summer residents will decide that when growing tomatoes I use too much chemistry, which affects the quality of the fruit. This is wrong. Our tomatoes are delicious and sweet. Everyone who tries our tomatoes notes a very good taste. It is not disease control drugs that should be feared, but an excess of nitrogen fertilizers in the soil, which leads to the accumulation of nitrates in vegetables. This is the sin of all summer residents who grow vegetables for sale.

June 22 is not only the day of the beginning of the Great Patriotic War, it is also the day from which the procession begins on the planting of late blight agricultural plants. In any case, this is how the professor, who read phytopathology at our institute, began his lecture.

June is in full swing. How to protect tomatoes from this very serious disease?

It is difficult to find a summer resident who would be inactive. Experienced gardeners, two weeks after planting tomato seedlings in open ground, carry out the first preventive treatment against phytophthora. Purchased seedlings are sometimes sold already blooming, in which case it’s worth waiting two weeks, you should start processing immediately.

First of all, iron sulfate is used (for 10 liters of water: iron sulfate 50 g, urea 30 g, slaked lime 20 g), followed by the biological product Trichodermin (Gliocladin). These drugs will help to effectively solve problems with late blight. You can use them alternately, enhancing the effect of microelements. Trace elements in this case help the plant recover faster and recover from stress. It is desirable to carry out processing both from the outside and from the inside of the sheet.

Of course, a lot depends on the current weather. Hot and dry summers serve as a deterrent for phytophthora. It is necessary to process landings in such weather, but not more often than once a month or three weeks. But rainy, foggy, cool weather with high humidity, on the contrary, is favorable for the development of the disease. Contribute to the appearance of phytophthora also differences in day and night temperatures, abundant dew. Under such conditions, phytophthora appears, which is called "at the speed of sound", captures not only large areas, but also affects the plant completely (leaves, stems, fruits). Here you need to be “on the alert” and process the plantings every week, especially if the signs of phytophthora are “on the face” - the leaves and fruits turn brown and stained. During the period of fruit ripening, it is better to refuse treatments.

Tony Austin/Flickr.com

In addition to treatments, it works well against the development of phytophthora joint green manure plantings, for example, mustard with tomatoes. It is enough to sow only 5 seeds per m² nearby, mulch the soil well, and you will forget about late blight. Mulch prevents fungus spores from getting from the soil to the plant. For potatoes in this regard, overseeding of oil radish is suitable.

You can try to "deceive" phytophthora as follows - accelerate the ripening of tomatoes. To do this, when the pdodes begin to turn red, the lower leaves are removed, not all at once, but several pieces a week. The treatment with boric acid will accelerate the ripening, for which a teaspoon of the powder should be diluted in 10 liters of water.

Covering plantings with foil in front of fog also prevents the development of the disease. Under the film, the tomatoes remain dry, late blight has nothing to do there.

In cases of rapid development of phytophthora, many housewives pick all the tomatoes, including unripe greens, which gradually ripen later in a dark place.

Well, in order not to deal with phytophthora to the maximum, plant in open ground only early maturing varieties. While late blight is “gaining momentum” in the second half of summer, your crop will be ready for harvest. Also, when buying seeds, pay attention to the fact that the variety you like is resistant to late blight. The infection is also transmitted through seeds.

Charlie Peverett/Flickr.com

Also, do not thicken the crops when planting. Plants must have good ventilation. Avoid joint plantings of potatoes and tomatoes so that the disease is not transmitted along the "chain". Plant tomatoes in well-lit areas. After harvesting, do not leave plant residues in the field and do not use them in compost. Don't forget crop rotation.

Everyone is free to decide when to start the fight against late blight, from June 22 or earlier. The end result is important, and these are strong, healthy tomatoes, pleasing with taste and external data.

Pickled tomatoes are a traditional Russian snack.

But in order to put it on the table in winter, gardeners now need to take care that the future crop of tomatoes is not destroyed by the insidious phytophthora.

This disease is the most common and dangerous for tomatoes. Even her name is "speaking", meaning in translation - "eater of plants." The causative agents of late blight are the simplest fungi that spend most of their lives in the soil in the form of spores. If the tomato was attacked, then the leaves on the bushes darken, vague brown spots appear on the stems and fruits, and soon a fat cross can be put on the crop.

Favorable conditions for the development of fungi are considered to be high humidity at moderate temperatures, rains, and frequent dews. In such weather, the fungus develops rapidly, devouring both greens and fruits. How to deal with this scourge?

Treat a tomato with kefir

Today, there are many chemicals on sale that promise effective counteraction to phytophthora. But, firstly, not all of them give the expected result, and secondly, many gardeners on their personal plots prefer to do without chemistry.

There are more modern and environmentally friendly methods of combating late blight and other fungal diseases - with the help of biological preparations. They contain live microorganisms that feed on fungal spores. And if chemical plant protection products suppress almost all the simplest soil fungi, among which there are useful ones, then biological preparations do not allow pathogenic fungi to spread.

There are also many folk remedies for combating phytophthora. Many of them are used as a preventive measure, and many as a treatment. Here are just seven of the most popular recipes.

1 If you find traces of phytophthora on tomatoes, tear off the darkened leaves or rotten fruits, then spray the bush with saline (1 cup of table salt per 10 liters of water). After drying, the solution forms a protective film on the fruit, which inhibits the spread of infection.

2 Phytophthora does not like garlic. The harvest will help save regular (every two weeks) spraying with garlic infusion. In wet years, the bushes are treated 4-5 times. You can use the following composition: 1.5 cups of garlic pulp (crushed heads and shoots), together with potassium permanganate, insist in a bucket of water. For each bush you need 0.5 liters of this infusion.

3 For 10 liters of water, add 20 drops of iodine and a liter of low-fat (settled) milk. Plants are sprayed with this composition. Iodine solution destroys microbes, accelerates the ripening of fruits.

4 One liter of fermented kefir for two days is stirred in a bucket of water. Plants are sprayed with the resulting solution two weeks after planting in a permanent place, and then all summer every week.

5 Another interesting method of preventing late blight is to take a thin copper wire, cut it into pieces of 3-4 centimeters and clean them with sandpaper. These scraps are pierced through the stem of the plant (below). The ends of the wire are bent down. But you can not twist the wire in a ring around the stem! In theory, the wire should supply the plant with the necessary amount of copper, which protects it from phytophthora.

6 The tinder fungus is gaining more and more popularity in the fight against late blight. The dried mushroom is crushed with a sharp knife, brewed with boiling water (one liter of water is taken per 100 grams of mushroom), cooled, filtered through gauze. Tomato bushes are sprayed at the first manifestations of the disease on the leaves, after two weeks the treatment is repeated.

7 To increase immunity in tomatoes, a decoction of horsetail is used: 100 grams of dry (150 g fresh) horsetail is boiled for 30 minutes over low heat in a liter of water. The resulting broth is diluted in five liters of water and the plants are sprayed with it.

What else do tomatoes get sick with

Blackleg. Most often it appears on seedlings and seedlings. The affected plant falls. A disease occurs if the crops are thickened and from excessive watering. You can cut off the diseased part, put the plant in water, and the roots will grow back. Before planting, dip them in a solution of potassium permanganate. But it is better to throw away the damaged plants, and pour the rest with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

It happens that the stems of already grown tomatoes turn black. The spots almost destroy them. Such bushes and branches are best cut and destroyed. If you notice the disease early, at the first sign, then you can cover up the damage with chalk, clay, and best of all with a paste of vitriol and lime (1: 2). Make the solution with a wooden spatula.

Dry spotting (macrosporiosis). First, brown spots appear on the lower, then on the upper leaves, and then the leaves die off. Rounded black spots appear at the point of attachment of the fetus to the stalk. The infection is transmitted through seeds, plant debris. The method of struggle is treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

White spotting (septoria). A disease that affects leaves, stems and fruits. Gray spots appear with dark dots inside. Some of the leaves are dying. The fruits are reduced, although seedlings are more often sick. The method of struggle is also spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

White rot. It affects the plant in the basal part. Black solid formations appear on the stem. This disease most often occurs in high humidity and cold weather.

The method of struggle is spraying with copper-containing preparations.

Top rot. Its signs are as follows: on green fruits, on their upper part, depressed spots appear, increasing and darkening. They may be dry, black and shiny, or they may be watery with a rotten smell. The disease occurs when there is a lack of moisture, an excess content of nitrogen in the soil and an insufficient content of calcium, most often this happens on acidic soils. Methods of struggle - moderate watering, treatment with calcium chloride (30-40 grams per 10 liters of water), spraying with a solution of calcium nitrate (one tablespoon per bucket of water) during fruit set.

Brown spot, or leaf mold. It affects the leaves of tomatoes in the conditions of film greenhouses. Signs of this disease: brown-brown spots with a velvety gray coating appear on the underside of the leaves. Affected leaves dry up, plants die. The spores of the fungus are easily transferred to healthy plants when watered, on people's clothes, stored in the soil, on fallen leaves.

Leaf mold develops in conditions of high humidity, when watering with cold water, at low temperatures at night. Therefore, at the first signs of this disease, it is necessary to reduce air humidity, reduce watering, and also adjust the temperature. To get rid of this disease, it is necessary to carry out disinfection in the greenhouse after harvesting. The following year, tomatoes cannot be planted in this greenhouse.

• If there are few days left before picking the tomato fruits (20 or less), only harmless (non-chemical) methods of protection can be used against phytophthora.
• If the disease develops quickly, it is better to remove the fruits of tomatoes - even if they are still green. Before laying for ripening, they are heated for about 4 hours at a temperature of 40 C (in an oven or a Russian oven). Such heat treatment suppresses the causative agent of late blight, and the fruits remain healthy. Some gardeners use hot (about 60 C) water for this, in which the fruits are kept for 1.5-2 minutes. After such procedures, lay out and dry the tomatoes, first on one side, and then, shifting to a dry place, on the other.
• To ripen tomatoes, they are placed in boxes or flat baskets and placed in a warm, dry place. There are claims that if you put unripe tomatoes in a box of ripe apples, they will "reach" much faster.

From late blight on tomatoes and potatoes

Have your tomatoes and potatoes turned brown, have black spots started to appear on the leaves, stems and fruits? Probably, the plants were attacked by late blight. But do not despair! We will tell you how to deal with phytophthora.

This common fungal disease, which primarily affects nightshade crops, occurs most often in cool and damp weather. Phytophthora spores can be found in the ground, on seeds, plant debris, greenhouse walls and roof, garden tools, etc. And in order to prevent the spread of spores to plants, it is necessary to observe preventive measures.

Prevention of late blight

1. Well-produced soils are a favorable environment for the development of late blight. Therefore, do not get involved in liming. If a lot of lime has accumulated in the soil, you need to restore the natural balance of the soil: add peat and fill the furrows with coarse sand.

2. Fungi prefer a moist environment, therefore it is important to water the plants in moderation and prevent the plantings from thickening. Water potatoes and tomatoes in the morning so that most of the moisture has time to soak into the soil by the end of the day. And when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, be sure to ventilate it.

In addition, humidity often rises during sudden changes in temperature (for example, at the end of summer, when the day is still hot, and the nights are already getting cold).

At such a time of planting in the open field, cover with a spunbond for the night. First of all, this applies to tomatoes, since not only late blight, but the cold itself can destroy them.

3. Any infection sticks to plants with weak immunity. Therefore, make sure that your tomatoes and potatoes get enough of the necessary trace elements (iodine, manganese, copper, potassium and phosphorus). Then garden crops will be less likely to get late blight.

And to strengthen the immunity of plants, you need to observe crop rotation. So, good predecessors for potatoes are cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root crops, onions, and for tomato - white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root crops.

4. It is possible to prevent the development of late blight by growing varieties and hybrids that are resistant to fungal diseases. Choose high-quality planting material - and you will not need drugs from phytophthora.

Phytophthora treatment

Chemical agents for late blight on potatoes and tomatoes are very effective, but they are not recommended for use during the ripening of the crop. Therefore, in the second half of summer it is better to spray plants with biological preparations.

So, in a specialized store you can buy Fitosporin, dilute it with water according to the instructions, carry out the first spraying when the ovaries appear, and then spray the plants every 10-14 days. In addition, with the help of Fitosporin solution, it is possible to treat the soil from phytophthora: before sowing or planting plants, shed the soil or add a biological product to irrigation water several times during the growing season.

How to process tomatoes and potatoes from late blight with folk remedies

We will give the most effective and time-tested folk recipes for safe remedies that our grandmothers used to save their green pets from dangerous late blight.

Infusion of garlic with potassium permanganate

100 g of garlic (you can use onions, arrows and leaves) are crushed (in a meat grinder, garlic maker or simply cut into very small pieces), pour 1 glass of water and insist for a day. Then the mass is filtered, 10 liters of water and 1 g of potassium permanganate are added. Plants are sprayed with the resulting solution every 10-15 days. On average, 0.5 liters are used for each bush.

Trichopolum

This drug (and its analogue - Metronidazole) can be bought at a pharmacy. 1 tablet of Trichopolum is dissolved in 1 liter of water and the tops are sprayed with this liquid every 2 weeks.

Milk serum

Whey from sour milk is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and from the beginning of July the plants are sprayed every 2-3 days.

The aisles of tomatoes are dusted a week after planting seedlings in the ground or greenhouse. When the fruits begin to set, dusting is repeated.

Also, wood ash can be dissolved in water, mixed with soap and sprayed on the tops of potatoes and tomatoes.

Milk with iodine

1 liter of skimmed milk is poured into 10 liters of water and 15 drops of iodine are added. The resulting solution is sprayed with plants every 2 weeks. Such an iodine-milk preparation not only kills microbes, but also accelerates the growth of green pets.

Yeast

Dissolve 100 g of yeast in 10 liters of water. Potatoes and tomatoes are treated with this agent at the first sign of phytophthora.

Kefir

1 liter of fermented kefir for two days is diluted with 10 liters of water. Plants are sprayed with the resulting solution every 2 weeks after planting in a permanent place, and in humid summer conditions - every week.

horsetail

100 g dry (or 150 g fresh) horsetail add to 1 liter of water and boil over low heat for 30 minutes. After that, the broth is diluted in 5 liters of water, cooled to room temperature and the plants are sprayed with it every 10-14 days.

A decoction of horsetail perfectly improves the immunity of potatoes and tomatoes

Salt

In 10 liters of water, dissolve 1 cup of table salt and spray the tops. But keep in mind: saline is more of a prophylactic than a cure. Therefore, before spraying, damaged areas of the plant must be removed.

Infusion of rotted hay

1 kg of hay is poured into 10 liters of water, a handful of urea is added and left for 3-4 days. The resulting infusion is filtered and the plants are sprayed every 1.5-2 weeks.

wood tinder fungus

The dried mushroom is crushed with a knife or passed through a meat grinder, then poured with boiling water (at the rate of 10 liters of water per 100 g of tinder fungus) and covered with a lid. When the liquid has cooled, it is filtered and used to spray potatoes and tomatoes every 10 days. Treatments with tinder fungus are most effective at the time of fruit set.

When to spray tomatoes and potatoes from late blight

To protect crops from late blight, folk remedies should not be used when the plants showed signs of the disease, but in advance. The first time the potatoes are sprayed at the beginning of budding, and the second - after 10-14 days. At the same time, the first processing of tomatoes is carried out.

So, over the summer, plants are sprayed on average 4-5 times every 10-15 days.

Take care of your green pets properly, do not forget about disease prevention - and no phytophthora will ruin your crop!

Hello dear friends!

About what can be applied on the site today's story will go.

Let's start with the fact that late blight is one of the most formidable diseases of garden crops of the Solanaceae family (potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, tobacco, nightshade).

This disease from year to year makes the owners of household plots and small farms worry about the future harvest. It is especially unpleasant that most often plants fall ill at the ripening stage, when so much effort and work has been invested in planting care.

Late blight is a fungal disease caused by an oomycete (lat. Phytophthora infestans). The first signs of infection are the appearance of brown spots on the foliage of plants, which quickly spread to stems, brushes and fruits. If the conditions for the development of the disease are favorable, then the bush dies in a matter of days.

Prevention and treatment of late blight on tomatoes

Never plant beds with tomatoes in shady areas of the garden, since the lack of solar heat and ultraviolet radiation, as well as wet, damp weather, provokes the development of the disease. Most often it progresses in August, when the period of cold rains begins, and temperature fluctuations (heat during the day - cool at night), which leads to the loss of growth, and excess fluid on the bushes contributes to the growth of the fungus).

Fungal diseases, including late blight, can be treated with fungicides of both chemical and organic origin. Synthetic formulations are based on copper compounds, such as Bordeaux mixture, blue vitriol, etc. Organic formulations are sold as compounds made from certain bacteria that have the ability to inhibit the growth of fungal infections.

Most gardeners try not to use poisonous compounds in their area. Therefore, they experiment with various food products, plants and other means that are safe for both humans and the environment.

Time-tested folk methods of dealing with phytophthora

1. Garlic

A unique vegetable crop that heals the entire site with just its presence. All parts of the plant (bulb, leaves, arrows) exhibit insecticidal, phytoncidal and fungicidal properties against both fungal diseases and most pests of fruit, berry and vegetable crops.

Use of garlic arrows

At the beginning of summer, experienced gardeners break out arrows of inflorescences of arrowing varieties of winter garlic. It is from such plant waste that an effective remedy against tomato phytophthora is prepared. 200 g of arrows (pulp) crushed into gruel using a blender or a combine are poured into 9-10 liters of warm water (40-42 ° C) and then infused for 2 hours.

Strained infusion abundantly irrigate tomato bushes. The event is held in the evening, in dry weather. For the prevention of late blight, the bushes are sprayed 2 weeks after the time they were planted in open ground or a greenhouse with a frequency of 1 time per week. At the first signs of the disease, the bushes are irrigated daily, until the moment of harvest.

Infusion of garlic bulbs

Option number 1

Grind 300 g of peeled cloves in a blender into gruel, pour 6 liters of cool water, insist for 30 minutes and pour unstrained liquid directly over tomato tassels, ovaries and ripening fruits.

Option number 2

Prepare garlic concentrate: pass half a kilogram of unpeeled garlic heads through a meat grinder (in this case, the husk enhances the insecticidal properties of the extract), pour 0.5 liters of water in a glass bottle or jar, tightly close the lid and place in a warm dark place for 8-9 days for extraction. The finished composition is filtered and stored in a bottle (preferably dark glass) with a tightly ground cork. The shelf life of the concentrate is up to 16-18 months.

To treat late blight-affected tomatoes, take 100 ml of garlic extract in a bucket of water and add 40-50 g of washing soap or powder to improve the adhesion of the composition. Spraying is carried out several times in a row with an interval of 1-3 days.

2. Plants with fungicidal properties

Nettle infusion:

1 kg of fresh chopped secateurs (the whole plant is taken) or 0.5 kg of dried raw material is poured with three liters of warm water, then insisted for a day, filtered, 30-40 grams of soap are added and used for spraying tomato bushes.

Decoction of needles:

Pine, fir or spruce needles (a liter tightly packed jar) are poured into 0.7 liters of boiling water, boiled over low heat under a lid for about 5 minutes, filtered, cooled, add 30 grams of soap and immediately used to treat the beds.

3. Wood ash

Prepare an ash decoction: pour 1 kg of vegetable ash into 6 liters of boiling water, boil under the lid for about half an hour, strain and cool. Dilute the finished broth with a bucket of water, dissolve 40 g of liquid soap and use for spraying.

4. Talker from late blight

In 10 liters of water dissolve 2 tbsp. tablespoons of baking soda, 2 dessert spoons of liquid soap, add 100 ml of any vegetable oil. Pour the resulting composition into a spray bottle, shake vigorously and irrigate the tomato bushes abundantly.

5. Complex solution from late blight

In a bucket of water, add 1 teaspoon of iodine tincture (5%) and boric acid (it is advisable to first dissolve it in a small volume of hot water), then add 2 g of potassium permanganate crystals (potassium permanganate). With the prepared composition, the soil is shed under the bushes, and also sprayed over the tops and unripe fruits. During the growing season, this treatment can be repeated three times.

6. Dairy products from late blight

In a bucket of water, add 2.5 liters of whole milk or whey, 6-7 tbsp. spoons of sugar. The resulting composition is treated with tomato beds.

All of these activities, which use folk methods of dealing with phytophthora give the best results for the prevention of fungal diseases of tomatoes. Have a good harvest of vegetables and fruits!