Feeding. Raising a Sheltie Puppy What food is best to feed a Sheltie

The dog, although it is a friend of man, is still far from being a man, and differences appear in everything, starting with food. For example, if a person must eat a variety of foods, dogs are more suitable for a monotonous diet, the change of which is undesirable. Secondly, the ratio of proteins, fats and carbohydrates in this standard diet is not at all the same as in a human diet.

Violation of the feeding regimen (feeding untimely, intermittently) and inadequate feeding weaken the dog's body, reduce its resistance to diseases. Overfeeding also negatively affects the health of the dog. She becomes fat, lethargic, inactive, prone to various diseases.

A complete diet should include a sufficient amount of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, trace elements. The usefulness of feeding a dog is judged by its appearance and behavior. If the dog retains good fatness, is cheerful and cheerful, has a thick, shiny coat, then feeding can be considered correct.

Dog food should be warmed to room temperature.

A puppy needs a little more food during growth than an adult dog.

PROTEINS. They serve to build body cells. They are the building material from which young cells are produced to replace dying ones. Proteins cannot be replaced by any other nutrients. It is believed that a particularly high-grade protein is found in meat, dairy products (cottage cheese), fish. The relatively short intestines of the dog are not adapted to digest plant foods in large quantities. Therefore, she needs meat.

Meat rich in proteins and has a fat that is well absorbed by the dog's body. Digestion of meat in the dog's stomach is easier and faster than in other pets. Therefore, meat should be the basis of dog food and make up at least 1/2 of the daily diet. Without regular feeding of dogs with fresh meat, it is impossible to raise a good dog, maintain its health and performance. Raw meat is healthier for a dog than boiled meat. Up to 1.5 months, puppies should be given finely chopped (scraped) meat. To do this, take a small piece of frozen meat and scrape the meat with the tip of a knife or spoon. After the scraper is warm, it can be given to the puppy. From 4-6 months, the puppy can begin to be given welded (dipped in boiling water for several minutes) offal - head trim, liver, udder, scar. From 2 months, you can occasionally give large raw beef bones, which the puppy will gnaw with pleasure. Boiled bones, lamb, pork, fish bones, poultry bones are not recommended, as bone fragments can injure the stomach or intestines and lead to frequent constipation.

Chicken egg a very important component of dog nutrition. Digestion in dogs is designed in such a way that the protein of raw chicken eggs is absorbed in the body by only 50-60%, but an egg boiled soft or hard-boiled will be digested by 90%! You can also point to the opposite case - a dog assimilates raw cottage cheese by 90%, and heat-treated - much worse. Do not rely on your taste preferences when feeding a four-legged friend, do not forget that his ancestor was a wolf! Egg white is best given boiled, as raw egg white destroys vitamin H (biotin), which leads to dermatitis, hair loss, and impaired molting. At the same time, vitamin-rich egg yolk is best served raw.

quail egg in terms of nutritional values, it significantly surpasses chicken and is an excellent dietary product in the diet of a growing puppy.

Fish rich in complete protein (about 15%), containing all the essential amino acids. Fish fat contains vitamins A, D, is easily digested due to the high content of unsaturated fatty acids. In fish, especially in the sea, there are a lot of minerals (iodine, fluorine, copper, zinc, manganese, etc.). But the nutritional value of fish is lower and, replacing meat with it, the amount should be increased by about 1/2 - 2 times. Sea fish can be given raw, removing the head, scales, fins; for puppies - skipping with bones (they are rich in phosphorus) through a meat grinder. It is advisable to include fish in the diet no earlier than when the puppy reaches 3 months of age. Give river fish only in boiled form, as river fish is often infected with worm larvae. Salted meat and fish are given only boiled, and soaked in a large amount of water before cooking.

Dairy- milk, cottage cheese, cheese, curdled milk, kefir and other must be given to puppies daily. Milk, especially goat, is useful, especially for puppies and lactating bitches. It is given fresh or fermented in small quantities. Prolonged milk feeding leads to fullness and lethargy of the digestion process. Part of the daily norm of milk can be used to make milk porridges.

Cottage cheese must be present in the diet of puppies, as it is the main source of easily digestible calcium, that is, a good remedy for preventing rickets. It is better to give a puppy calcined cottage cheese. Prepare it like this: in 0.5 liters of boiled milk, add 1-2 tbsp. spoons of 10% calcium chloride solution. Fold curdled cottage cheese, without squeezing and give the puppy warm. Calcined cottage cheese should be prepared immediately before feeding, it should not be stored for a long time. Cottage cheese can be diluted with kefir. Serum can also be given to a puppy as a drink. It is especially useful to give serum to mated and lactating bitches that are in great need of calcium. It is not worth replacing cottage cheese with sweet curd mass.

Cheese- a very useful product. It is made from milk, which the great Russian physiologist I.I. Pavlov spoke of as an amazing food prepared by nature itself. And all the components of milk, with a few exceptions, pass into cheese, and in a concentrated form. Cheese contains up to 22% protein, i.e. more than in meat, up to 30% fat, a huge amount of mineral salts of calcium and phosphorus and all the vitamins of milk. Cheese is a source of essential amino acids, including the most deficient - tryptophan, lysine and methionine. Cheese contains all the vitamins necessary for the normal development of a puppy - vitamin A, water-soluble vitamins, especially group B.

FATS are of animal and vegetable origin and are a high-calorie source of thermal energy and play an important role in the vital activity of cells. Fats should be given in limited quantities. Excess fat causes indigestion, disrupts the activity of the liver and is simply not needed if the dog lives in warmth and does not expend a lot of energy. Fats are better absorbed if the dog gets them mixed with other foods - cereal, vegetables. One of the signs of the sufficiency of fats in the diet is a smooth coat with a sheen. Animal fats are found in meat and dairy products. Vegetable fats are much worse absorbed by the dog's body, but they are the main source of polyunsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E. They contribute to the growth of the puppy, increase the body's resistance to infections, have a normalizing effect on the walls of blood vessels, and participate in metabolism.

CARBOHYDRATES provide the work of muscles, they are the main source of heat energy. Fiber stimulates the bowels. The less fat in the diet, the more carbohydrates should be. The main source of carbohydrates are various cereals, flour products, carrots, cabbage, herbs, berries and fruits, honey. Sometimes you can replace the cereal part of the diet with bread products. Vegetables are low in carbohydrates. It is very useful to give germinated wheat or oats.

Groats. The best cereals for dogs are rice and buckwheat. Oatmeal (in the form of oatmeal flakes), corn, millet, barley is better to give occasionally and in a mixed form for better absorption. It is better not to abuse semolina porridge, according to recent studies, semolina helps to remove calcium from the body.

Flour products. A valuable source of B vitamins is ordinary black bread. It is better to give it after soaking it in broth or kefir. White bread forms a sticky mass in the puppy's stomach, which slows down digestion. Therefore, white bread can be given occasionally in small quantities in the form of crackers. Dough products (noodles, pasta, vermicelli) can sometimes be given for a variety of food, but not more than once a week and if the weight of the dog allows. Giving a large amount of flour products contributes to dog obesity.

Vegetables and fruits. A necessary and very valuable component of dog food, in terms of nutritional value and content of vitamins and mineral salts, it is not inferior to any other product. The puppy should be given mashed carrots with the addition of vegetable fat or sour cream, fresh cabbage, beets, apples, all the berries that the puppy will eat with pleasure - raspberries, strawberries, apricots, grapes. Various dried fruits are very useful.

Greens. When fresh greens appear, it is necessary to add vitamin bait to the puppy’s food, both from cultural ones - parsley, dill, lettuce, spinach, and from wild herbs - dandelion leaves (soaked in salted water), young spring nettles (scalded with boiling water).

MINERAL SALT AND MICROELEMENTS play an important role in the life of dogs. Their deficiency leads to mineral starvation and, as a result, to various diseases. Most often, rickets (improper bone growth in puppies), bone fragility, general underdevelopment, disorders of the nervous system, etc. occur from a lack of minerals. Sodium, calcium, potassium, and others, as well as trace elements (a small amount of copper, iodine, zinc, etc. ) enter the body of the dog with food in sufficient quantities. The dog especially needs calcium and phosphorus, which are the main material for bone formation and affect the activity of the heart, nervous system and metabolism. A characteristic sign of a lack of minerals in food is the dog's attempts to gnaw wood, stones, and earth. Most calcium is found in bone meal, chalk, phosphorus - in meat and bone meal, vegetable feed and cereal grains.

For better absorption, calcium gluconate is recommended to be given together with phytin in the ratio of one tablet of gluconate 0.5 g and two tablets of phytin 0.25 g each. Glycerophosphate can be given, it contains calcium and phosphorus in the correct ratio. Mineral supplementation is given daily.

VITAMINS This is the key to your dog's health. Organic substances are of great importance for the metabolism in the body. Their insufficient intake leads to a serious disease - beriberi. The source of vitamins and microelements are various industrial medicines, for example, 8 in 1 EXCEL brewers yeast.

Vitamin drops must be counted from a pipette, and not by eye. The frequency of taking vitamins is 2 weeks of taking, 1 week is a break, etc. Many vitamins are currently known and studied in detail. Let's consider the most important of them.

Vitamin A has an effect on growth, improves skin condition, contributes to the body's resistance to infections. Lack of vitamin A leads to deterioration of vision at dusk, skin flakes, conjunctivitis is often observed, weight loss is also possible, in puppies - growth retardation. Vitamin A is found only in animal products - fish oil, milk, butter, cream, cottage cheese, cheese, egg yolk, liver, heart, as well as in carrots, cabbage, beets, young greens. Vitamin A is better absorbed and absorbed in the presence of fats.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) increases the body's defenses, limits the possibility of respiratory diseases, improves the elasticity of blood vessels, promotes better absorption of iron and normal hematopoiesis, prevents the formation of carcinogens. In case of an overdose, violations of the liver and pancreas are possible. Contained in fresh plants: wild rose, sea buckthorn, parsley, green onions, dill, cabbage, vegetable tops. Vitamin C is very unstable. It decomposes at high temperatures, when in contact with metals, when vegetables are soaked for a long time, it passes into water, and quickly oxidizes. When vegetables, fruits and berries are stored, the content of vitamin C decreases rapidly. Already after 2 - 3 months of storage in most plant foods, vitamin C is half destroyed. Vitamin C from natural sources is much more effective than synthetic.

Vitamin D is a group of chemical compounds that regulate the exchange of calcium and phosphorus in the body. The main function - stimulates the provision of normal growth and development of bones, the prevention of rickets and osteoporosis. It regulates mineral metabolism and promotes the deposition of calcium in bone tissue and dentin, thus preventing osteomalacia (softening) of the bones. Dietary sources of vitamin D are dairy products, fish oil, and egg yolk. However, in practice, milk and dairy products do not always contain vitamin D or contain only small amounts (for example, 100 g of cow's milk contains only 0.05 mg of vitamin D). In addition, milk contains a large amount of phosphorus, which prevents the absorption of vitamin D.

Vitamin E- fat-soluble vitamin, i.e. it dissolves and remains in the fatty tissues of the body, thereby reducing the need for large amounts of vitamin intake, ensures the proper function of the gonads in the dog and the normal course of pregnancy in the bitch. In addition, vitamin E helps in the treatment of eczema, skin ulcers, lichen. Vitamin E is very important for red blood cells, it improves cell respiration and strengthens endurance. Tocopherol is the main nutritional antioxidant. Vitamin E is present in many foods, especially some fats and oils. Contained in soybean oil, sunflower oil, nuts, sea buckthorn, eggs, parsley.

Fish fat can be given instead of vitamin A and D, 1 teaspoon per day. It is preferable to give fish oil to puppies born in the autumn-winter period. With a weak stool, the amount of fish oil should be reduced.

Water ensures the normal functioning of the body. Water enters the body with food, especially with milk, vegetables, herbs. In addition, it must be given to dogs in sufficient quantities daily in its pure form. The dog's need for water especially increases after intensive work, as well as during the hot season. Water must be clean, free of impurities and odor.

Approximate diet feeding sheltie puppies at the age of 1-2 months with natural food
1st feeding
2nd feeding	at 10 o'clock - pureed soup with boiled meat
3rd feeding	at 13 o'clock - calcined cottage cheese, add 1 teaspoon of honey or rosehip syrup to the resulting cottage cheese
4th feeding	at 16 o'clock - porridge with meat and stewed vegetables
5th feeding	at 19 o'clock - fermented baked milk (kefir or curdled milk) with cheese
6th feeding	at 22 o'clock - raw meat "planed" with finely grated carrots or beets with the addition of sour cream or cream

Approximate ration of feeding a sheltie puppy aged 2-4 months with natural food
1st feeding	at 7 o'clock in the morning - milk porridge from prodel: buckwheat or rice groats with the addition of 0.5 teaspoon of butter and 1/2 raw yolk
2nd feeding	at 11 o'clock - pureed soup with boiled meat
3rd feeding	at 15 o'clock - calcined cottage cheese, add 1 teaspoon of honey or rosehip syrup to the resulting cottage cheese
4th feeding	at 19 o'clock - porridge with meat and stewed vegetables
5th feeding	at 23 o'clock - raw meat in small pieces with finely grated carrots or beets with the addition of sour cream or cream.

Approximate diet for feeding a sheltie puppy aged 4-6 months with natural food
1st feeding	at 7 o'clock in the morning - calcined cottage cheese, add 1 teaspoon of honey and 1/2 raw yolk to the resulting cottage cheese
2nd feeding	at 12 o'clock - porridge in meat broth with boiled meat, finely chopped greens
3rd feeding	at 17 o'clock - porridge with meat and stewed vegetables
4th feeding	at 22 o'clock - raw meat in small pieces with finely grated carrots with the addition of sour cream or cream

The specified diet and feeding regimen are indicative and should be changed for each puppy individually. The puppy needs to be fed often, but in small portions, making sure that the stomach does not swell from food, because rare feeding and consumption of large amounts of food disrupts proper development, bone formation and leads to back arching, curvature of the front and hind limbs, to change in the constitution of dogs. When reducing the number of feedings, dairy foods are removed first from the diet. Dog food should be mushy, you need to add salt to your liking. A bowl of food is placed on a stand with a height equal to the dog's elbow joint. As the puppy grows, increase the height of the stand. This requirement must be observed in order to avoid curvature of the puppy's spine from the wrong posture while eating. A bowl of food is placed for 15 minutes. If the puppy refuses to eat within 15 minutes, the bowl is removed until the next feeding, and you also need to reduce the portion of feedings so that the puppy does not overeat. Fresh water should always be in a separate bowl.

IF YOU ARE TRANSFERTING YOUR PUPPY ON READY FOOD, then you need to choose the highest level of food (according to the budget). It is desirable that it matches the breed of the puppy (food for puppies of small long-haired breeds) and has an "adult" continuation. In this case, increased needs for certain substances are taken into account, for example, biotin - a wool vitamin, etc. Puppy food is called Junior (junior) or Puppy (pappy). The amount of protein in them should be almost 2 times higher than in adult feeds. At first, food is given in small portions and the reaction of the gastrointestinal tract is observed, as well as possible manifestations of allergies.

Dry food is best soaked in warm water. The food is left to eat for 15 minutes. Throw away uneaten food. Puppies are fed 5-6 times a day and by 6 months reduce the number of feedings to 2-3 times a day. Fresh water must be freely available.

If you feed your baby dry food, do not give him any other food and vitamin and mineral supplements. In this case, they can lead to metabolic disorders and a number of diseases. It is enough during the period of growth of the puppy and during the period of changing teeth to give the puppy calcium based on weight, in courses - we give two weeks, two weeks break.

But if your pet's diet consists of homemade food, you can't do without vitamins. True, the need of a rapidly growing puppy for micro-, macroelements and vitamins changes daily. If the food is ideal for your puppy, do not change it until the age of one, because, unlike us, he does not need a variety of foods. Never feed your puppy the leftovers from your table, otherwise he will become a beggar, a thief or a picky eater.

Approximate diet for feeding a Sheltie puppy aged 4-6 months with special feeds
1st feeding	at 7 o'clock in the morning - dry food well soaked in water from 3 to 4 hours and poured with 10% fresh or fermented cream
2nd feeding	at 12 o'clock - raw meat (beef or offal - tripe)
3rd feeding	at 17 o'clock - wet food
4th feeding	at 22:00 - raw or boiled meat, can be replaced with fresh sea fish

Remember that a puppy is a fragile creature. Everything new is given to him to try in very small quantities or one new ingredient (natural food) in order to carefully control food intolerances or overload the digestive system. All changes in the diet should be carried out within 3-5 days. Be in contact with your veterinarian. The main development and growth of a young dog, the formation of its exterior and the education of behavior proceeds from the time the puppy is born to 12 months of age, especially from the 1st to the 7th months. Therefore, it is during this period that it is necessary to pay special attention to the cultivation and upbringing of a puppy.

The Sheltie is a Shetland Sheepdog, perfectly adapted to living in a private house or in a small apartment. Many are convinced that this is a miniature collie. Let's dispel the misconception. The two breeds are not related by history of origin, although they show a lot of external similarities. The Sheltie breed appeared in the 17th century. First discovered in Scotland, this country is considered the birthplace of the dog. Cynologists claim that the breed was brought from Asia, but there is no evidence for this statement.

Entry into history

It seems strange that a dozen years ago in Russia, rare people recognized Sheltie. Dogs were confused with collies, compared with a cute long-haired fox. However, the miniature Scottish Shepherd breed has earned the right to self-identification. Today, unfortunately, the history of the origin of the breed is unknown. Dogs are highly intelligent and smart. Thanks to good physical training, the animal was even used in protection, despite its modest size.

Shelties have an excellent sense of smell and have long been used as search engines. Thanks to their docile disposition, they lend themselves perfectly to training. Four nurseries have been created in Russia, breeding the breed and exhibiting pets at competitions of various ranks.

Scottish cynologists have made a lot of efforts so that over the centuries the breed does not change much due to the admixture of other breeds. Failing to justify the efforts, the modern Sheltie dog breed shows a more elongated muzzle and smaller stature. The nature of the dog remained unchanged. The animal, as in the old days, is a wonderful companion and true friend.

Shelties have something in common with collies, the halo of the origin of both breeds is Scotland. The Shetland Islands are considered to be the homeland of the Shetland Islands. There, small shepherd dogs with thick hair were used to look after pastures where cows and sheep grazed. Moreover, in the ancestors of the Sheltie, the hair grew longer, the ears hung, and the tail lay on the back like a pretzel.

Perhaps the breed began to spread across Scandinavia, continental Europe and England thanks to the efforts of sailors. The sailors called at the ports of the Shetland Islands, took the dogs with them. When crossed with the dogs of Greenland, the Sheltie family of wild huskies acquired the final features of the modern exterior.

Dogs were revered for their small size; they did not seek to make guards out of animals. The dogs did not need much food, the wool protected them from snow and winds. Evolution has served as a good sculptor, honing the traits of endurance, calmness, and a certain canine intelligence in the character of the Sheltie. In 1909, the club was founded in Scotland, the English equivalent appeared in 1914. At that time, the dogs were called Shetland Sheepdogs. The final form of the standard was fixed in 1948.

Description of the breed

Summary table of characteristics:

Other name	shetland sheepdog
Lifespan	12–13 years old
Growth	male: 33–41 cm, female: 33–41 cm
Weight	male: 6.4–12 kg, female: 6.4–12 kg
Wool	fluffy, double, long, straight, hard
Color	sable, merle, merle blue, sable white, black and white, black and tan, tricolor
Character	intelligent, affectionate, lively, active, loyal, sympathetic, reserved, alert, playful, teachable, gentle, strong
Usage	companion, shepherd

The description of the Sheltie breed begins with the nature of this animal. Shelties work as watchmen and search engines, keeping a light disposition and complaisant character. They easily make contact with children, although they are initially treated with a little distrust. The Sheltie cannot be called a nanny, the dog is too proud for this task. Able to show a grin if the child begins to persistently mock the animal.

Cohabitation with other pets cannot be called problem-free. Shelties are reluctant to tolerate cats around, except for a kitten that has grown up with a puppy. Then Shelty regards the cat as her best friend, staying close throughout her life.

The nature of the dog is soft and calm. Sheltie puppies are mobile and playful, just like adults. They strive to visit all corners of the house. They like to gnaw on wires and cables, it is recommended to remove property from the floor.

Adopted by FCI 88 of 1987 in the UK, it gives a comprehensive description of the breed. According to the document, the Sheltie is a dog of medium height, graceful and flexible, revealing a thick coat of great length along the body, with a clearly defined mane and collar. Characteristics of the breed indicate a modest size:

• Height at the withers is 33-39.5 cm (without deviations within these limits), which did not prevent the dog from jumping high and remaining extremely brisk.
• Weight - 7-11 kg. Meet large males, but extremely rare.
• Powerful skeleton. It cannot be said that the limbs have high strength, but the animal runs quickly.
• The neck is narrow, the head is elongated. The eyes are set deep. Ears are large and erect.
• The tail is long, not curled. It is not cut, as in selected fighting breeds.

The Sheltie's head shows characteristic features:

• Wedge-shaped forceps, muzzle resembles a fox.
• Absence of a protruding posterior tubercle of the skull.
• The transition from the forehead to the muzzle is small, clear.
• With any color, it has a black nose, eye and lip rims.
• Straight jaws with tight lips, 42 teeth.
• Medium-sized, slanting "fox" eyes are dark brown in color. In marbled shelties, blue-tinted eyes are allowed.

Small triangular ears with lowered tips are planted on the head. The head flows into a muscular neck and protruding chest, framed by a thick collar. The shoulders of the Sheltie are strongly turned back, the limbs are muscular and strong. The chest sags to the elbow, visually due to the wool it seems deeper, the ribs are arched enough. The tail is well pubescent, the length reaches the hocks. Marriage is considered a tail "pretzel".

Shelties have a dense coat of wool due to the fluffy undercoat. The only areas with short hair are the muzzle and metatarsus. A common color is sable, any shade from golden to deep red. Sheltie breeders are not too revered wolf colors. But marble, blue or tricolor give preference to votes. Moreover, puppies with black dots on silver-blue wool are considered expensive. Shelties are found in black and white or black and red. A small white mark on the chest is allowed.

Sheltie Care

Not every owner thinks about how to care for a Sheltie until he buys a puppy. This is wrong, you should learn about such aspects in advance. Proper care of the Sheltie is the key to the health of the dog's coat. Let's pay attention to the main points:

1. It is strictly forbidden to cut Sheltie wool. The action will disrupt the hormonal balance in the pet's body, a number of unpleasant diseases will appear, moreover, the Sheltie's coat is the dignity of the dog.
2. Until the coat has acquired a luxurious density, combing fades into the background, but a three-month-old Sheltie will already need to be combed daily, like an adult.
3. Ears and eyes are examined and wiped with a swab moistened with water daily.
4. Nails need to be trimmed once a month.
5. The Sheltie loves water procedures, the shower, if desired, becomes a daily procedure for the dog. Shampooing is not recommended more than once a month.
6. The skin of dogs is sensitive, do not overdo it with combing the coat. By the way, the undercoat is not prone to churning into tangles. The dog looks extremely stately and well-groomed even without regular combing.
7. Vaccination is a must. The puppy is supposed to be vaccinated with distemper and a number of serious diseases. It is performed when the puppy is 4-5 months old.

The Sheltie does not require specific, complicated care. The dog feels great in the apartment and in a private house. The mind and ingenuity of the dog will reduce the hassle of the owners to a minimum.

Remember: petting a puppy on the ears is not worth it, this will disrupt the growth and structure of the hearing organ. Able to become too soft and fall forward. Pay attention to the activity of the baby: puppies, like children, are inquisitive, love to jump from sofas and chairs, leading to limb injury.

Small things should not be allowed to play with, otherwise the little sheltie will swallow them. Get ready for attacks on shoes, furniture, interior items. This is what all puppies do - it is better to put away expensive things of the owners before returning home.

From the first moment the Sheltie appears in the house, you are responsible for the behavior, well-being, and education of the dog. How will you treat a young dog, lay such a character. If you don’t want, for example, a huge woolly dog ​​to sleep in bed later, don’t teach it - send it to the place. If you start training, introduce commands gradually, repeat patiently and do not raise your voice to the dog.

The first thing to teach a Sheltie is a nickname. The dog must respond impeccably to the name, ignoring touching and caressing nicknames. It’s a good idea to learn the basic obedience commands: “sit,” “quiet,” “come,” and “beside.” It is not necessary to learn commands in the first weeks, perhaps the signals will have to be worked out at a conscious age. Spend 15 minutes a day studying. From an early age, it is worth accustoming a Sheltie to a comb and a hair dryer.

Photo and price of puppies

The cost of a Sheltie puppy is about 30 thousand rubles.

What to feed your pet

The main point is the introduction of complementary foods when the pet is small. You can find out how to feed Sheltie puppies from breeders. A small puppy under the age of 3 months should not be immediately weaned from its usual diet. You will need to maintain a diet and offer the dog food that the puppy ate "from mom". Sometimes you have to get bitch milk, as a rule, breeders do not give puppies before 2.5 months, often vaccinating and accustoming them to adult food on their own.

• Up to a month and a half, the puppy feeds exclusively on mother's milk.
• When the baby has crossed the threshold of a new home, it is recommended to feed the puppy with rice or millet porridge cooked in milk.
• A bowl of water and a bowl of milk are placed near the puppy, in the first month of being in a new home.
• Upon reaching 4-5 months of age, it is permissible to cook porridge already on the water, adding meat there. The best meat for Shelties will be beef.
• Do not feed your dog chicken, especially a puppy.
• It is recommended to transfer the dog to meat simultaneously with the introduction of dry food.

Often dog breeders are convinced that the dry food that is sold in pet stores is of no use. This is a common misconception. Dog handlers have confirmed that dry food contains a lot of vitamins and minerals, without which it will be difficult for a growing body.

Puppy diet up to six months:

1. In the morning - dairy products, it is possible to give cottage cheese with honey.
2. For an afternoon snack, porridge in milk or meat broth.
3. For lunch, vegetables and boiled meat.
4. In the evening, give a piece of raw lean meat, scalded with boiling water.
5. After six months, it is recommended to feed twice a day, leaving a large portion for the evening.
6. You can not give meat with bones, especially tubular.
7. It is allowed to feed the dog offal: liver, ventricles, beef or chicken hearts. Products should be subjected to heat treatment, combined with clean meat.

If you cook porridge for a dog, take the main role of easily digestible oatmeal, rice and buckwheat from cereals. Don't overfeed, Shelties are overfeeders. Vegetables are becoming an essential part of the diet. Try to add greens to the broth and porridge, preferably fresh, it is possible to freeze for the winter. Give fish once a week. And by the way, instead of an expensive treat when training, offer a piece of an apple or raspberries, currants.

As for portions: for a puppy up to 3 months of age, the daily norm of meat is 150 g, vegetables - 30-40 g, dairy products - 20-30 g. the use of compounds. From professional dressings, pay attention to Salvikal, SA-37, popular with breeders.

Training and socialization

Sheltie training begins at the age of five months. Animals perfectly understand the owner and love to train in the form of a game. You should not communicate with Shelty in an orderly tone, it is unlikely that you will be able to achieve what is required.

The Sheltie is a proud dog with an excellent memory. For this reason, the dog should not be offended, much less beaten. The animal will remember the insult for a long time, out of harm it will not follow the owner's commands. The Sheltie is the smartest dog, raising her will bring only pleasure. A colossal sense of smell allows the dog to find lost things, you just need to train accordingly.

The Sheltie dog is a friendly and loyal animal, it will become a wonderful friend and companion. He is attached to his beloved family, it is extremely difficult to endure parting. Shelties are loyal and loving dogs who are expected to demonstrate their good demeanor.

Due to attachment to the owner, the dog tries to follow the person everywhere. As a rule, leashes and muzzles are not used for dogs. They react with restraint to relatives, extremely rarely enter into a skirmish. They do not have high courage, but they will always stand up for the family. The Sheltie dog will become a wonderful friend and comrade, especially for children.

In their appearance, Shelties (Shetland Sheepdogs) are very reminiscent of collies. But this decorative breed is independent. She has a clear standard of appearance, temperament and structure.

Description

In the past, the Sheltie was a shepherd dog.

The dog does not belong to the dwarf breeds. Her average height is 36 cm, and her weight is 7 kg. But sometimes even larger individuals are born in Shelties. This is due to the fact that the dog was obviously vaccinated with the blood of large dogs (collies). But deviations in growth by more than 2.5 cm are unacceptable for this breed. Otherwise, such a pet will be considered a hardware.

The Sheltie has expressive almond-shaped eyes. Color - brown or blue (rare). The muzzle together with the slanted eyes and the shape of the ears create their own delicate image of the Sheltie - alert and intelligent at the same time.

The fluffy tail of the dog is always raised during movements. The coat of pets is quite hard and long.

“Long-haired working dog, very beautiful” is the last description of the breed in the standard, registered in 1986. The document is still valid today.

The document was last updated in 2011. So, the color of a pet can be tricolor in the following variations:

1. Sable with tan and white spots.
2. Sable with black and merle blue.
3. Bright red with black and white.

The dog has a straight long coat with a soft and short undercoat. In the old days, she saved the dog from frost and overheating at the same time. The charm of the pet is given by its frill and mane. A luxurious pet coat with lowered front paws gives people a good impression of the animal. Appearance emphasizes the good nature and tenderness of the pet.

Shelties move easily and naturally. With sufficiently short legs, her run is fast, and her jumps are long.

Character

By nature, the Sheltie is an excellent and devoted companion. She can be a great family member. This is a very active animal with an inexhaustible flow of energy. These animals are truly kind, and therefore they are the best companions for families with children.

But the shepherd dog is wary of strangers. That is why the Sheltie needs early socialization. If a stranger approaches the house, the pet will definitely notify the owners about him with a noisy bark.

This breed of dog has a reputation for barking frequently. However, a smart dog can be weaned from this. By training the Sheltie correctly, owners can get the dog to “voice” only 2-3 times.

Shelties are in dire need of attention. It is not suitable for individuals who do not have time to play with an animal at all. If the dog is left to itself, sooner or later it will develop destructive behavior. This is fraught with things left in the house, walls, doors and other material values.

In general, the Sheltie is a very sociable and responsive animal. They are worthy of praise and always show their own enthusiasm for the owners.

Pet always tries to please. This is truly a family dog. The larger the family, the happier the Sheltie. She gladly receives strong hugs in turn from all the households.

But also the dog does not like loud sounds and screams. The tense atmosphere in the house makes her sad. We must not forget that the Sheltie is a very sensitive dog. She needs to feel mutual love and live in friendly families in which there are no domestic conflicts.

Education and training

It is very unusual for a person who is used to training shepherd dogs to train a Sheltie. Aggressive fighters in comparison with the good-natured shepherd require a completely different approach to education. Dogs of this breed can be very timid. It is worth listing everything that can scare them. It:

• fears of everything new (noises, stands, transport, etc.);
• criticism of the trainer;
• screams;
• fear that the required dog will not be able to perform.

But not all Shelties have the same phobias. There are also fearless representatives of this breed. In world agility, dogs often win first places. And such a phenomenon is impossible if fears lurk in the dog. And it also has the following advantages over other animals:

• high degree of learning;
• good speed, agility and jumping ability;
• temperament;
• stress tolerance;
• adaptation to constant threats and interference.

If the Sheltie did not have all these qualities, then victories in competitions could be forgotten.

In the upbringing and training of a dog, one must be clearly aware that the dog's shyness can be eradicated. For example, if a puppy or teenager is afraid to ride public transport, you need to travel with a dog in it for several days in a row. After 2-3 times, the fears of the animal will disappear.

Care

Shelties are not picky about grooming. It is enough to comb her hair once a week. You can bathe the dog as it gets dirty, but not more than 1-2 times a month.

It is impossible to allow rolling of wool and the formation of tangles on the animal. So she will lose her beautiful royal look and look untidy.

In summer and during shedding, the dog begins to lose a lot of hair. At this time, she needs more frequent bathing and combing than usual. She needs help getting rid of dead hair.

Also, smart dogs that are not deprived of intelligence need mental stress. It is worth constantly teaching them new things. Physical activity is very important for Shelties.

The conditions for keeping and caring for a dog should be as follows:

• a shepherd dog often needs to be in the fresh air;
• in the house where she lives, there should be a lot of space.

Food

Sheltie nutrition must be balanced. It is preferable to serve porridge to the dog:

• rice;
• oatmeal;
• buckwheat.

Porridges are mixed or fed separately. Not very often you can give your pet millet, barley and corn porridge. It is worth remembering that barley is not suitable for the stomach of a sheltie. In a small amount, she is offered semolina cooked in milk.

It is important for a shepherd dog to eat raw yolks, and it is better to boil raw protein before feeding.

Sheltie puppies are very fond of vegetables and fruits. It is useful for them to serve apples, bananas, pears, zucchini, carrots and pumpkin.

Dogs enjoy eating raspberries and grapes. Do not feed the animal sour fruits or berries. In the cold season, favorite treats are replaced with dried fruits.

Shelties also need dairy products for their body. It is necessary to feed the dog:

• curdled milk;
• kefir;
• cottage cheese;
• fermented baked milk;
• yogurt.

Milk in its pure form is not offered to the dog, as it can provoke indigestion.

Diseases

Shelties are quite healthy dogs, but among them there are individuals predisposed to the following diseases:

• cryptorchidism;
• epilepsy;
• dysplasia;
• testicular tumor in males;
• histiocytoma;
• congenital deafness;
• entropion;
• cataract;
• von Willebrand disease;
• elbow dislocation (congenital);
• hypothyroidism.

Quite rare for this breed, but still common in her diseases:

• dwarfism;
• hemophilia;
• dystrophy;
• polyarthritis.

If you follow hygiene, proper nutrition and sufficient physical activity for a Sheltie, then nothing should threaten her health. Since the immunity of the breed is strong.

Sheltie characteristics in the table

Sheltie videos

The Sheltie is a very intelligent and affectionate friend. The companion dog is very fond of large families. She is affectionate and playful and is best suited for active people. The dog loves other pets, but tries to keep patronage over them. The shepherd dog cannot live in a narrow space without fresh air. She is shown long walks and games. She has no equal in agility.

But by nature, shelties are born timid, but you can remove all fears from her. The main thing is to follow the upbringing and not yell at the pet. The dog is very vulnerable and its training requires a different approach than a self-confident shepherd dog. The dog loves to bark, but this habit can also be weaned.

Shelties are great with small children. But not only will he become their best friend, he will endure their free games with her, but he will not let the kids be offended. A very kind animal needs affection and mutual love.

Congratulations! Today you have become the proud owner of the most wonderful dog - COLLIE (Sheltie). If you have already been familiar with this amazing breed before, then you know all the numerous advantages of these dogs as well as we do.

If you are a beginner, you will be pleasantly surprised by the very first weeks of acquaintance with ROLLIES (Shelties), and having lived together for several years, you will be subdued by the mind, intelligence, and finally, by the beauty of this amazing breed.

You finally got the puppy you've been dreaming about! This is an exciting moment in your life, but it can be stressful for your pet. He is torn away from his mother and his fellows and plunged into a world of new sights, sounds and smells.

Our task is to do everything possible so that the cultivation and upbringing of your pet is easy and pleasant, so that you avoid those problems on which we have already "stuffed ourselves with bumps".

Preparing for the appearance of a puppy in the house.

You must make sure that the environment in your home is safe for the puppy. Check if there are any electrical wires in the house that he could have a bite to eat; are there any places where it will be difficult for him to get out or from where he can fall (windows, balconies, stairs).

By ensuring the safety of the puppy in advance, you can avoid numerous troubles in the future.

Do you plan to let your puppy go for a walk without supervision? See if there are any cracks and gaps in the fence of your house through which a puppy could crawl; make sure the garden is free of poisonous plants, fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides.

Essential items.

Bowls for food and drink.

Stainless steel bowls are durable and will not corrode, break or crack. A teething puppy will chew on anything in front of him, and if you buy plastic utensils, this can create problems. In addition, stainless steel is much more hygienic than plastic.

A place to sleep.

The puppy will need a cozy couch in a secluded place. Thanks to the fact that he will have his own place in the house, the puppy will more easily get used to the new environment and feel safe. He will have somewhere to hide and sleep.

Collar and leash.

Although in the early days you are unlikely to take the puppy further than your yard, the collar and leash should be used from the very beginning, so that the puppy gets used to them. Make sure the collar fits snugly enough so that the puppy does not feel uncomfortable. NEVER pet a collie or sheltie puppy and an adult dog on the head! Thus, you risk spoiling the set of ears.

Collies and Shelties should not be collared. It is not suitable for this breed. From any collar, even a very tight collie (sheltie) can easily get out, slightly shaking his head. Collies have a shallow and narrow head in its skull. The volume of the neck in the place where the collar is usually located is less than the depth of the skull. In addition, the collar frays the wool on the collar. Therefore, the chain is categorically not suitable.

For collies and shelties, a leather, puffy (not flat) “noose” is suitable, to which the leash is fastened in the same way as to the collar. In a calm state, it hangs freely around the neck, but stretches as necessary, thus correcting the behavior of the dog.

Brush and comb.

If you brush your puppy regularly, he himself begins to like it when he is looked after. The puppy should be combed 1-2 times a month. To do this, you need a massage metal brush, a metal comb (for combing soft wool behind the ears) and a moisturizing spray - conditioner (without oil!) The wool is sprayed and combed against hair growth. During the shedding period, brush more often, at least once a week. At that moment you will need - a slicker brush (a brush with long, thin, sharp, curved teeth.)

At other times, combing very often, and even more so with a slicker brush, is not recommended. You can damage the coat, provoke a molt. For the same reasons, it is not recommended to wash Collies or Shelties often (more often than 1-2 times a year). You can do this less often. The structure of the wool is such that the wool does not need to be washed, but is cleaned in a natural way, for example, when combing, when exposed to snow or rain.

Puppy toys.

Rubber toys are the most durable and can be used for a long time. For small puppies, choose smaller toys, and for larger puppies, choose larger toys. In any case, the toy must be large enough so that the puppy cannot swallow it or choke on it.

Getting to know children.

Children do not always realize that you have to be careful with a small puppy. Therefore, one of the adults must definitely look after them.

Getting to know other dogs.

If you already have a dog that has been living in the house for quite some time, he may be uncomfortable with the fact that he now has to share the space he has lived in with a new pet.

Try to introduce the dogs not in the house, but somewhere in "no man's land" where an adult dog will not feel so wary. Keep both dogs on a leash and supervise them closely. Let them sniff and explore each other.

If a cat or other dog living in the house does not react to the puppy the way you would like, do not scold them: they will need time to get used to the new tenant.

Dental care.

Milk teeth fall out easily and most often you don't even find them: the puppy swallows them.

A rare dog likes it when they climb into her mouth and brush her teeth. Start teaching your puppy to brush his teeth at an early age so that it becomes a habit for him.

The main cause of tooth loss is tartar, which is caused by bacteria that leave specific plaque on the surface of the teeth. The most effective way to prevent this disease is to brush your teeth with a dog toothbrush and toothpaste. The best solution in terms of oral hygiene in puppies is to brush his teeth 2 times a week.

Bathing.

The water should be moderately warm; in addition, you will need a special dog shampoo. After bathing, dry the puppy thoroughly and take him to a warm room until he is completely dry. In the summer, you can let the puppy out.

walks

Before attaching the leash, you need to accustom the dog to the collar. Even a small collar can cause the puppy to start head shaking or itching. Just distract your dog with a toy. First, practice wearing a collar at home, do the same with a leash. While holding the leash with one hand (it should be loose), take a ball or other favorite toy in your other hand. Soon your dog will get used to the leash, and in the fresh air everything will go much easier. If, however, your puppy on the street crouches, rests and does not want to follow you, then, of course, a treat will help here. At the same time, do not give it immediately, but slowly walk back. Give the first treat after three steps, the next after five, then after ten steps. Then take the ball out of your pocket, push it forward in front of the dog's eyes and make sure that the leash does not stretch during its movement. Intercept gently to prevent jerking of the leash. At the end of the first walk, this exercise will already be successfully mastered!

Start walking with the puppy as soon as he gets used to you a little and will, at least slightly, know his nickname. Carry it in your arms to a quiet place, let it go for a walk WITHOUT A LEAD. Periodically call to yourself, teach him a nickname and the command "Come to me." Also, for a short time, wear a leash and teach to walk on a leash. Then, remove the leash and on your hands - home.

After a few days, complicate the task - take him on a leash outside a quiet place, let him GRADUALLY get acquainted with other dogs, with a crowd of people, with cars and noise.

And only then, teach to enter the entrance on a leash and leave it. Gradually increase the walking time to 2-3 hours.

Trimming nails.

Every puppy needs regular nail care. Use a special nail cutter to trim nails. Trim each nail in several steps, little by little, until you get to the pink part of the nail. Nails need to be trimmed twice a month. This will require a nail cutter. Claws do not grind on asphalt, this is a myth. Long claws are traumatic, in addition, they contribute to the lengthening and flattening of the paw.

Hair care.

Regardless of the type of coat, the puppy sheds and a new one grows instead of the old coat. Dogs that live outside change their coat twice a year (spring and autumn). Domestic dogs are not so receptive to daylight, so they shed all year round - in spring and autumn it just becomes more noticeable. The frequency of combing and the type of comb depends on the structure of the coat.

The appearance of a dog in the house brings you a wonderful experience of communication, but at the same time imposes a huge responsibility. The owner can become so close to the dog that he begins to think that what is good for him is equally good for her. But man is an omnivore, with well-developed taste buds, thanks to which he relishes various dishes with great pleasure and is very partial in choosing food. Unlike us, for a dog, the main thing is a well-established diet. The same food should be served in the same dish, in the right place and at the right time - this maintains a physiological balance.

Education.

Good manners and obedience should be taught to a puppy from an early age. This should be done as early as possible, while the puppy is most receptive to learning. The dog must know and follow the basic rules of behavior.

A puppy that has just appeared in your house, most likely, has not yet been trained in anything. The only rule that he instinctively follows is not to send natural needs in the place where he sleeps.

Remember: most of the trouble is due to the fact that you prematurely give your pet too much freedom.

To begin with, limit your puppy to one or two rooms where family members most often spend time.

Praise your puppy every time he sends out his natural needs outside. Do it right away so that the puppy understands why he was praised. Be always close to him, during the walk.

Don't punish or scold your puppy if he accidentally gets dirty in the house. Try to do everything possible to ensure that this does not happen in the future. Do not think that the puppy should be the first to notify you that it is time for him to walk. Most puppies don't rush outside at all until they realize that a home toilet is not provided for them. Take your dog for a walk at fixed hours.

Fundamentals of home education.

Take your puppy for a walk often enough - after each meal and immediately after sleep, as well as at night and in the morning, immediately after you get up. Every time he sends his natural needs in the right place, praise him and give him a reassuring pat. At first, you can take him to the same place so that he recognizes his scent.

If your puppy is fidgeting or sniffing the floor, then it's time for him to take a walk!

If something happened that you did not expect, do not scold the puppy - clean up after him and process the place of the “accident” to eliminate the unpleasant smell.

A dog is a creature that obeys the laws of the pack. She needs a leader - otherwise she herself will try to take his place. A small puppy from birth must understand that the owner occupies the highest step on the hierarchical ladder. He needs an authoritative teacher. Do not raise your voice when you call the puppy - he is very sensitive to this and recognizes the slightest changes in intonation. He perceives sharp jerky exclamations as a command, an affectionate voice as praise, and a strict voice as a reprimand. Give standard commands always with the same words, and at the beginning of training, accompany the words with gestures so that the puppy understands what they want from him.

Sit command.

When teaching this command, use encouragement. Hold it in front of the puppy's nose. Gently raise your hand above the dog's head and take it slightly back towards the withers. The puppy will sit down and follow your movements. As soon as you see that the puppy sits, say: "Sit!" when he has already sat down, say: “Good!” and give him a treat. This exercise will have to be repeated several times before the puppy realizes that he is being rewarded for sitting down. Start with three short exercises a day and gradually increase the time as your puppy gets older.

Down command.

After you have taught the puppy to sit on command, you can move on to the “down” command. Command the puppy to "sit!" slowly move your hand with food down towards you, while commanding: "Lie down!". When the puppy lies down, give him a treat and don't forget to praise him.

Treat rewards make learning easier. Encouragement should be very appetizing, small in size.

Puppies and young dogs often gnaw and chew on everything, even household appliances. When watching a small puppy, you can control his chewing instinct if you immediately make it clear what you can chew and what not (let it be his toys, but not your slippers). Throw a puppy a toy, and he will bring it to you in his teeth.

Praise and blame

For both there is a rule: timeliness! You have only one or two seconds to respond to an act with a positive (praise) or negative stimulus (punishment). When you delay, the dog no longer knows why you reacted, and correlates your reaction with his next action.

Praise it can be a kind word, a pat, a stroke, a scratch, a treat, or a tossed ball. But only once! But praise is something special, and praise should be given when the dog has done something special. During the first performance lessons, for example, the “sit” command should first be praised every time, if then it turns out (almost) always - less often, and when everything works out constantly, praise should be abandoned. Of course, then this command is always executed. And praise is now needed for other tasks.

censure when “punishing”, actions are used from “ignoring” through “no” and “fu” and up to a more or less strong jerk for the collar. In this case, the degree of punishment should be commensurate with age, level of training and the situation.

trips

Teach your puppy to get into your car from an early age so that he gets used to sitting in the passenger compartment. Preparing your trip is very important, especially if you have a long trip ahead of you.

Preventive measures

Good health is primarily the result of good hygiene. It is much easier to prevent a disease than to fight it when it has already manifested itself in full.

Ear cleaning

This procedure must be carried out regularly. By treating the puppy's ears, you can notice signs of irritation in time and prevent the development of an infection that can cause severe pain and which will be difficult to fight. Use a special lotion to clean your ears. Tools such as rules soften the wax plug that forms in the ear canal, after which it becomes easier to clean out.

Eye area treatment

Regardless of the breed of the puppy, you should monitor the condition of his eyes. It is necessary to carefully remove the discharge in the corners of the eyes, although from time to time they will appear in a small amount. The best way to deal with this problem is to use a saline solution or eye wash.

Feeding.

Feed the puppy in small portions several times a day (at least 3 times a day, depending on age) at strictly defined times. Always put food in the same bowl, which is in the same place. This will teach the puppy to comply with the regimen.

Don't overfeed your dog. During the growth period, a puppy needs more energy than an adult dog. However, in no case should you overfeed the puppy, as being overweight can lead to problems with the joints. Avoid giving your dog leftovers from your table, as they cannot meet the real nutritional needs, on the contrary, such dietary supplements cause a tendency to become obese, which will certainly affect the development of the dog in the future.

Make sure your dog always has fresh water. The puppy should always leave a bowl of fresh clean water. Change the water regularly as little puppies love to splash it.

When you bring your puppy home, the best thing to do is to feed him the food he got from the breeder.

If for some reason you are not satisfied with such a regimen and such food, you can change it. But this must be done gradually.

When feeding a dog, it is important to follow some rules. First, remember that a dog is still a carnivore. Even the smallest puppy should receive primarily meat food. A dog is not a cow or a pig. Do not feed her kefir with cabbage and potato soups. Despite the fact that over the millennia of coexistence with humans, dogs have become omnivorous, and can eat almost any human food, you do not need to give them sausage, biscuits, chips and Coca-Cola. The benefits of such food are zero, and it can bring a lot of harm. You can not feed the dog with bird tubular bones, sharp fragments of beef bones. It is advisable, in general, not to give bones to dogs - they are not digested, but only clog the stomach.

Meat products should be a significant part of the diet. The dog should receive a daily amount of meat at the rate of at least 20-25 g per kilogram of body weight. The norm of a growing puppy and an adult dog during the period of active use is 2-3 times more. If by-products are used, about a third more is required. Traditionally, beef and poultry are considered the most suitable for feeding dogs. For a long time, lamb and pork were thought to be taboo dog foods. Recently, however, there have been doubts about this postulate. The fact is that the ban on these species was based on the fact that the meat and especially offal of these domestic animals are the source of infection of dogs with extremely dangerous helminths. Modern methods of industrial production of pork and lamb have made them practically safe. It must be remembered that the relief applies to meat produced only in an industrial way. If you're unsure of the source, don't risk it.

Fish is also good food. The most suitable sea fish. It is better to give it slightly boiled, without bones. Sea fish can be given raw. River fish for feeding dogs is used only in a well-cooked form due to the possibility of infection with helminths. In addition, the bones of river fish can cause very serious injuries. Although there are helminths in marine fish, they cannot live in the body of terrestrial vertebrates, which include dogs and you and me. Of the marine fish, the most suitable are pollock, hake, ice fish, navaga. Capelin, mackerel, horse mackerel, herring (not salted) are very fatty fish and are not quite suitable for the systematic feeding of our domestic dogs. Although northern dogs eat this fish, it must be taken into account that their metabolism and energy expenditure are significantly different from those of domestic dogs. It is known that pollock and a number of other fish contain an enzyme that destroys some vitamins, and therefore, allegedly, this fish is unsuitable for dogs to eat. This is true, but vitamin deficiency threatens a dog only if it eats one pollock and consumes it exclusively in its raw form.

Cereals - rice and buckwheat - are suitable as carbohydrate foods for dogs. You can give bread - not rich and not sour. The most suitable bread with bran. No need to feed dogs with pasta, semolina and oatmeal porridge. Oats are unsuitable food for dogs. The only acceptable flour confectionery products are dry unleavened biscuits. Dogs have an interesting feature. If carbohydrate foods are excluded from the diet, digestive enzymes are practically absent in saliva. But as soon as you start feeding your dog regular cereals and bread, the cells of the salivary glands begin to actively secrete amylolytic enzymes that break down carbohydrates. The amount of saliva a dog excretes depends on the type of food. If the food is dry, there is a lot of saliva; if it is wet, there is little.

For dogs of all ages, and especially puppies, pregnant and lactating bitches, it is useful to give dairy products - cottage cheese, kefir, fermented baked milk, cheese. It is only important that the fat content in them is low.

Often people transfer their habits and ideas about proper nutrition to feeding pets. The most common misconception is feeding dogs a lot of vegetables. Moreover, many try to diversify this part of the diet, including carrots, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, etc. in dog food. People draw a direct analogy with themselves in feeding dogs, and try to provide their pet with a variety of vitamins found in vegetables. Owners especially like to feed their pets with grated carrot salad with vegetable oil. Nutritionists quite rightly inspired us that carotene, which is contained in carrots, can turn into vitamin A and be absorbed by the human body only after dissolving it in oil. The body of dogs, unlike ours, is not able to synthesize vitamin A from carotene, either with or without vegetable oil! Carnivores can only get vitamin A from animal products - milk, eggs, liver, etc. The same applies to almost all other vitamins. Dogs do not need to get vitamin C from their diet at all - it is produced in their liver, so dogs never get scurvy.

Vegetables in canine diets can basically be considered only as ballast food, a source of fiber that contributes to normal bowel function. By itself, fiber, which vegetables are rich in, is not digested by the digestive system of dogs, just like starch and many other polysaccharides. Such products can be recognized as important in nutrition if it is necessary to reduce the caloric content of the diet (to reduce weight, reduce lactation, leaving the usual amount of food.

However, if you like to cook a variety of vegetable dishes for your dog, feel free to experiment. Just do not forget to add a sufficient amount of meat to the vegetable stew.

There is an opinion that it is useful to give garlic as a prophylactic anthelmintic. Garlic does have this ability, but it only works on roundworms, which most puppies and young dogs are infected with. In adult dogs, there are other types of worms, on which the essential oils of garlic have practically no effect. But if your puppy has a predisposition to gastric diseases, onions and garlic can play a far from positive role. It is better to give patented dewormings from time to time, and refuse onion ones.

Some owners enthusiastically describe how their dog eats a whole raw egg, including the shell. It's really funny, but that's all. The shell as a source of calcium is doubtful, but it can injure the esophagus. Raw egg protein is poorly digested in dogs. The yolk is an excellent food in any form - both raw and boiled. Egg powder can also be a good dietary supplement.

Very useful and practically necessary is vegetable oil, preferably unrefined. The oil should be added daily to the feed. The main thing here is not to overdo it, and not to provoke an upset stomach in the dog.

Finally, about commercial feed. On this occasion, domestic dog breeders and veterinarians speak in different ways: from the complete rejection of canned food and the elevation of traditional domestic ones to the complete rejection of natural ones.

The fact remains that dozens of generations of dogs in many foreign kennels are kept exclusively on canned food. Since these products appeared in our country, many breeders and owners feed their dogs with them. At the same time, hundreds of generations of dogs that have survived to this day have not seen such food in their eyes. Naturally, the use of ready-made feeds reduces the time spent on purchasing and preparing food for dogs by several times. This is extremely important for nurseries with large livestock. However, numerous facts of individual food intolerance by dogs are known. Sometimes post-mortem autopsies show that a dog that has been eating similar, even high-quality food for many years, has quite serious damage to the digestive organs.

Unfortunately, we have to state that many of the relatively cheap feeds do not meet the requirements of nutrition. The manufacturer does not report that such food cannot be fed to a dog for a long time without additional feeding. Often in the production of feed, proteins of plant origin are used. They are not complete for feeding dogs. Some dogs are allergic to soy products. Many low-calorie foods that relieve food allergies cannot be used for a long time without compromising the health of the dog.

Another recommendation given by feed manufacturers, which is difficult to agree with, is not to mix commercial feeds with natural ones, or in general, as an extreme measure, do not change feeds throughout life. Such unreasonable demands cannot be explained by anything other than a purely commercial background. The dog, for thousands of years of living next to man, has adapted to a variety of types of food. And there is no need to talk about the balance of the diets that she traditionally ate. The body of each animal is unique. Digestibility and digestibility, and consequently, the need for nutrients in each animal are individual. Energy costs also vary considerably. Therefore, from a physiological point of view, there is nothing to worry about if your dog receives different foods. Maybe, really, you should not mix porridge with dry food in one feeding. But in our opinion, it is quite possible to alternate feeding with commercial feeds with natural ones, and there is nothing wrong with that. The main thing is that the food is of good quality and the dog feels good. The well-being and health of the dog in this case should be the main criteria.

Do not think that dry croquettes are made up of meat, and by pouring them into porridge, you can provide your dog with quite decent food. This is a misconception: the required amount of carbohydrates (specially processed cereals) has already been added to croquettes, and diluting them with porridge, you reduce the nutritional value of the feed many times over. This is really not worth doing. The taste of croquettes can be greatly improved by mixing them with canned food (preferably from the same manufacturer), but this immediately increases the cost of the feed. Porridge can be mixed with freeze-dried meat - but this is also an expensive pleasure. Some manufacturers produce canned food, in which you can add a cereal component. In this case, appropriate recommendations are written on the banks.

If you have to change foods from different commercial brands, this should be done gradually. Any change in food, or the introduction of something new into the usual diet, should be carried out within a few days. The dog's digestive system does not immediately adapt to a new type of food.

Don't buy cheap food. Treatment can be much more expensive later. When choosing food, do not be guided by its appearance. Sometimes, to make the food more attractive to pet owners, different ingredients are dyed different colors. Don't be naive and don't buy into pretty things. One color - one dye, and not always harmless. Why would you feed your dog yet another dietary fiber? It doesn't matter to a dog what color this or that croquet is.

Choose a brand of food according to the manufacturer's recommendations and your dog's tastes and needs, and buy a small amount of food first. If during the first days the dog does not have an upset stomach, it eats the offered food with pleasure, continue to feed it to the dog for a month. And in the case of a good condition of your pet, you can safely continue this practice. If you don't like something, try changing the food, or go back to the previous feeding option.

Pay attention to the amount of excrement. If the frequency of bowel movements during one walk has increased, as well as the amount of waste, it is probably not worth using such food. This can serve as confirmation that the feed is high in fiber. If your dog regularly stains his panties, this is also a sign of the unsuitability of this food.

Canned food is usually very good food. Dogs eat it with great pleasure. However, having bought a large jar cheaply - do not flatter yourself. Often the cost of a product directly correlates with its nutritional value. To get the required amount of nutrients, your dog will need to eat one and a half cans of cheap food, or half a can of expensive food. And soon your dog will ask for an increase in portions, which again will directly respond to the wallet. As a result, the cost of such a "cheap" feed is higher than the cost of the best quality feed.

The amount of food, the frequency of feeding are determined only empirically.

While the puppy is with his mother, he eats as many times as he wakes up. Then - as much as the breeder will give him. Schedules that recommend a certain number of feedings for a puppy depending on its age cannot always be followed. Watch the Puppy carefully - his behavior will tell you how many times you need to feed him.

After weaning him from his mother at 1.5-2 months of age, he is usually fed 4-5 times. A month later, the Puppy starts acting up, malnourished, or refuses to eat at the allotted time. Agree with his requirements, and a three-month-old puppy can be fed four times. But if he refuses to feed four times, it is better to reduce the amount of food given at one time, and not the number of feedings. A small puppy has a small stomach, he cannot and should not eat a large amount of food at a time. It is necessary that he receive food often and little by little. Only in this case it will be well absorbed and the baby will not have problems with digestion.

Up to six to seven months, it is advisable to feed him three times a day. To determine if it is time to reduce the number of feedings, you can by the puppy's appetite. If he is very hungry for the next feeding, and before meals from time to time he runs to the feeding place and sniffs the bowl - do not torture the dog, and feed him more often. And if, on the contrary, in the next feeding, lazily and thoughtfully approaches the bowl and chooses tastier pieces, you can reduce the number of feedings. The same can be said about the amount of food in one feeding. The puppy, and later the adult dog, must eat from the bowl, not breaking away, not running back and forth, not choosing the best pieces. And after eating a portion, after a minute or two, forget about the bowl and go about your own business. If the dog does not move away from the bowl, licks it for a long time and walks in circles - increase the portion.

The amount of food a dog needs depends on a number of factors. It is quite understandable that a growing dog requires more food than an adult. A dog kept outside in the winter should receive more high-calorie food. In winter, the need for food usually increases even in apartment dogs. In the summer it decreases, and in extreme heat, many dogs refuse food altogether. Dogs that move a lot also need to be fed more. Feed with a high content of proteins and vitamins should receive breeding males, pregnant and lactating bitches.

Naturally, this all applies only to clinically healthy dogs. Sick animals need to be fed more often. After acute gastric diseases, the principle of little and often is very relevant in general. A recovering starving dog may greedily pounce on food and eat very large amounts of food. However, the overstretched stomach will be “outraged” by such a load and may well return everything back.

In general, vomiting after a heavy meal in dogs is a completely normal phenomenon. But only if it happened 20-30 minutes after gluttony and happened once. Many females, when nursing puppies, are happy to share recently eaten food with the kids. Puppies eat it with great pleasure. If the bitch is healthy and the food is of high quality, do not prevent her from fulfilling maternal duties prescribed by nature itself, and for puppies to get acquainted with "adult" food.,

The fatness of the dog can be determined by pressing the hand to the side of the chest. If you feel between the ribs and the hand, except for the skin and the layer of wool, a thin layer of fat - the dog is in normal condition. If the layer of fat has reached a centimeter - put the dog on a vegetable diet. And when, apart from a thin skin and a thin layer of wool between the ribs and the arm, there is no fat - increase the dog's portion of food. If this does not help within a week, consult a doctor.

We take into account that a growing puppy, especially a male, can be fat. Up to 8-10 months - no diets! On the contrary, allow the puppy to eat the amount of food he wants. Don't limit it! At the age of 3-7 months, the puppy is actively growing, the skeleton is being formed, muscle mass is gaining. At this age, the puppy needs a complete and plentiful diet, as well as vitamins and mineral supplements.

If a dog refuses to eat, do not force feed it. As a rule, this rarely leads to success. Better contact your veterinarian. Refusal of the dog from the most delicious food means that he does not feel well.

An important rule that must always be observed - feed the dog only after a walk! The dog should go for an active walk no earlier than two hours after eating.

Feed your dog only from the stand (not from the floor!!!). The height of the stand should be up to your dog's elbow or slightly lower.

The dog should always have free access to a bowl of water.

In no case should you give dogs: fatty, spicy, smoked, fried, salted, sausage, semi-finished products, canned food, chocolate, cakes, rich bread, bones.

Feeding (approximate diet):

5-6 times a day (up to 2-3 months),

4-5 times (up to 4 months),

3-4 (up to 8 months),

from 8 months - 2 times a day.

1) Cottage cheese (yogurt)

2) Omelet (mix eggs with milk until cooked, do not fry) 2-3 weeks.

3) Milk porridge (rice + buckwheat, 1: 1, or slightly in other proportions)

4) Meat (cut into pieces or minced meat, chicken or beef)

5) Porridge with meat.

6) Boiled low-fat fish (pollock, etc.), without bones. 2-3 times a week.

7) Dry food Pro-plan (soaked).

Many puppies begin to refuse dairy products at this age, if yours is no exception, then remove the cottage cheese completely or offer it less often (every other day, 1-2 times a week). Instead of cottage cheese - feed or natural meat food.

Beef stomach (tripe). Great food for a longhaired breed. It is introduced into the diet for one week gradually, starting with boiled, then scalded, and then moving on to raw.

Vitamins and mineral supplements.

Vitamins (with natural or mixed feeding).

"8 in 1 Brevers" with omega 3 fatty acids. Give by weight from puppyhood to life).

Calcidee (Calcidee) from 1.5 months to a year by weight.

1. A growing puppy needs a daily vitamin and mineral supplement. If your puppy receives ready-made industrial feeds, you should not reassure yourself that all the vitamins are already included in the feed, their quantity is not enough!

Between the ages of 2 and 12 months, the puppy should be given a mineral supplement that is high in calcium and phosphorus. This is necessary for the correct formation of the skeleton, and a successful change of teeth.

Also, from 4 to 8-9 months, we give our dogs "Vitrum Calcium" or "Calcium D 3 Nycomed" (sold in regular pharmacies).

As a rule, by this age, puppies are reluctant to eat dairy food, and especially with the addition of various additives. Tablets "Vitrum Calcium" - a great way out! They have good digestibility, even in the absence of a fermented milk environment. The tablet does not need to be crushed and added to food. We put the tablet on the root of the dog's tongue, hold it and slightly raise the muzzle with our hand for a few seconds until the dog makes a swallowing movement. It is important to teach a puppy from childhood to swallow the proposed pills without resistance, this may come in handy in the future.

There is a myth among owners that the more calcium a puppy gets, the more likely it is to have erect ears, which is a fault in the breed.

Professional breeders with great experience and experience completely refute this version. How your puppy's ears will be (light, heavy or correct) is 90% dependent on the set of the ears of his parents and grandparents, and not on the amount of calcium received.

There are some other patterns: a fat and phlegmatic puppy will have heavier ears than a thin and active one.

2. In addition to the calcium-phosphorus supplement, a puppy, as well as an adult dog, needs a full complex of vitamins. For collies and shelties, as for long-haired dogs, vitamins based on brewer's yeast, with the addition of biotin, are most desirable. These vitamins will promote the active growth of a thick, long and healthy coat.

We use at the age of 1.5-4 months: CA-37 ("Intervet") BREWERS EAST ("8 in 1", "M & T") SUPER-WOOL ("Polidex"), etc.

From 5 to 10 months, during the period of active hair growth in collie and sheltie puppies, as well as adult dogs during the molting period, we give vitamins with a high content of BIOTIN - Nutricoat ("8 in 1") VI-TO ("Bosh ”) Hokamix and others.

Vaccination.

Vaccination is an excellent method of preventing serious, sometimes extremely dangerous diseases with a fatal outcome. Some vaccinations are mandatory, while others are optional. Vaccination is most effective if it is repeated at regular intervals with revaccination.

1 shot (4 weeks) Nobivak Puppy

2 shots (7-8 weeks) Nobivak DHP (or DHPPI + L)

3 shots (12 weeks) Nobivak DHPPi + Lepto + Rabies. - plague, enteritis, hepatitis, adenovirus infections of types 1 and 2, leptospirosis and rabies.

Before the fourth (and subsequent) vaccinations, it is necessary to deworm 10-14 days before vaccination with Cestal or Triantelm.

4 shots (six months after last) Nobivak DHPPi

5 vaccination (that is, a calendar year has passed) Nobivak DHPPi + Lepto + rabies

and so annually from the date when they were last vaccinated.

Protection against ticks (piroplasmosis). NECESSARILY!!!

Spray treatment "Bolfo" or "Bars" (according to instructions).

Drops on the withers from ticks "Advantix", "Rolf-Club", etc. (monthly, from early spring until frost Apply to puppies no earlier than 2 months.)

Collar "Kiltiks" (use not earlier than 2-3 months of age).

Ear problems

During rapid growth, changing teeth, the puppy's ears can rise, taking a standing position. It is necessary to “fix” this, it won’t go away by itself, the ears can remain in this position for the rest of the dog’s life.

Mix glycerin with baby powder until creamy and apply on the inner upper part of the ear to the place of the desired fold. Repeat as needed.

Feeding

In her book Collie and Sheltie, the famous German cynologist Eva-Maria Vogeler pays great attention to the issues of collie feeding.

A dog - by nature - is a predator, but this does not mean that it eats exclusively meat. The ancestor of the dog - the wolf - in the extracted animal, first of all, opens the wall of the abdomen and devours the insides, prefers the stomach and intestines with semi- and completely digested plant contents. Then he eats the musculature, and in the end he gnaws at the bones. Small prey animals, such as mice and rabbits, he absorbs along with the skin and wool. They observed how the wolf eats berries and fruits, even mushrooms.

What conclusion can be drawn from the above? First of all, a dog needs raw meat, but due to its ability to adapt to various living conditions, it can eat plant and starchy foods without any damage (it even needs carbohydrates). For an adult dog, you can stick to the ratio: 1/3 - meat and 2/3 - carbohydrates. For working and sporting dogs, the proportion is different, 2/3 - meat and 1/3 - carbohydrates.

For health, a dog needs a varied diet that includes all the nutrients, vitamins and mineral salts.

The word "meat" refers to all parts of animal carcasses (beef, lamb), entrails, and also fish. All of these foods are valuable sources of protein. Raw egg whites destroy the valuable biotin for the dog's body (from the B-vitamin complex), so you need to give only the yolk or a boiled egg.

The meat is fed raw or scalded, as it is not always 100% fresh. You can't give pork to a dog. Boiled poultry or rabbit must be carefully cleaned of bones. This meat is good for whetting the appetite of bad eaters.

Don't trim all the fat off the meat. It should be fatty if you boil it and remove the layer of fat from the chilled broth (the broth is for food) - a little fat, as a primary source of energy, the dog needs.

Fully and at low cost, you can feed like this: buy all possible varieties of meat in small quantities, finely chop, mix and freeze in portions. Give meat only completely thawed and warm (about 37 C).

Flour food is oatmeal, buckwheat and pearl barley, stale rye bread. The most desirable is black bread made from wholemeal flour.

Feeding vegetables is very beneficial. Garlic, for example, helps to correct the intestinal flora. Scald spicy vegetables, finely chop and mix with food.

Meat, and especially fish, contains a lot of phosphorus and little calcium. Therefore, it is required to give additional calcium, as well as vitamins, especially vitamins of group B. It is necessary to pay attention to the ratio of calcium and phosphorus (the best is 2:1).

When giving vitamins, care must be taken: some preparations contain too much vitamins D and A, which, if overdosed, cause bone disease, as well as with an overdose of phosphorus. The need for vitamin A is 220/E for a growing dog and 110/E for a grown dog, the need for vitamin D is 22/E for a growing dog and 11/E for a dog that has grown by 1 kg of weight per day.

Some dogs, despite a proper and varied diet, may be predisposed to metabolic disorders, which entails various unpleasant consequences. In this case, you need to contact your veterinarian.

How much food does a dog need? This is established by experience. They say that if a dog spends about 15 minutes on food and eats intermittently, then there was a lot of food. If the bowl is emptied instantly and the dog is looking for pieces around, then there was little (unless your dog has a passion for food). The amount of food is different for different dogs and depends on their metabolism, mobility, etc. At the same time, it is necessary to test at what quantities the dog has the best condition.

The correct condition is when you can feel the spine and thigh bones, the ribs should be covered with a thin layer of muscle. If, by running your hand along the sides of the dog, you can immediately feel the ribs, then it is considered thin. However, there are many skinny dogs that live and live, and also have beautiful coats. Excess fat in any case is unacceptable!

Taking into account the above information, Leningrad collie lovers recommend the following diets for feeding dogs of this breed.

General issues. All dog breeders want to have a healthy, beautiful and intelligent dog, but few understand that this is most dependent on proper nutrition, plentiful walks and sensible education of the puppy at its earliest age. At the age of one month to six months, the mind, beauty and health of your dog is laid, especially in the first three months. Herbert Stosser, President of the Council of the Cynological Society of Saint-Hubert in Belgium, believes that half of a dog's beauty depends on proper feeding! Under the second half, the Belgian dog handler meant the origin of the animal.

Regular feeding at the same hours is the main means for educating discipline and other useful qualities of the dog. If the puppy does not eat his portion or eats reluctantly, then one-time portions should be reduced in size, but not reduce the number of feedings. Overloading the stomach weighs it down, causes frequent regurgitation, contributes to rickets, increases the weight of the puppy and bends the paws that are not yet strong.

The duration of feeding should not exceed 15 minutes.

Do not deviate from the intended diet. If the puppy is healthy and the food has not been eaten during this time, then put it in the cold, and then, on the next feeding, warm it up, give the puppy again. From the article J. Krzechkova"You have a dog at home": "Puppies can be roughly divided into three groups: those that take food calmly and in even portions. They usually retain this feature until old age. With such dogs, the least work. Another group of puppies are excessive eaters, who systematically overeat. Such puppies usually have an arched back, an unnecessarily large belly, and sometimes they overeat so much that they vomit. Usually such puppies also drink decently. Such an eater should measure a reasonable portion of food and thereby limit his excessive increase in weight. Third some puppies, on the contrary, often reject food, run away from kormuiasi and have no appetite for food. As long as such a puppy is healthy, you don’t need to pay attention to it. He will definitely grow out of a generally normal, well-developed dog. All you need is consistency and a strong the will to maintain the conditions reported below".

A good puppy is well-fed, strong and muscular, but not fat or loose.

The puppy should receive food fresh, warm enough (fresh milk temperature), in a clean flat bowl, served always in the same place. Reheat food in a bowl that your dog doesn't eat from. Food should be given from a stand corresponding to the height of the puppy's elbow, which contributes to the correct posture of the dog and wean it to pick up food from the ground.

Never drop food or treats on the floor or allow your puppy to pick up anything edible from the ground. Never give pieces from the table and do not allow this to your family members, and even more so to guests! This is bad for appetite, but the main thing is that it irreparably spoils the upbringing of the dog.

The first steps towards mutual understanding. “If a child spent his early childhood without a dog,” says Konrad Lorenz, “it means that he was not lucky ...”

Clean water for drinking at room temperature is constantly and is replaced at least 2 times a day. If the puppy rinses his mouth after eating, then the water is changed more often. If the enamel is not broken off, then the water can stand in an enameled bowl.

What is included in the diet of a collie dog. The diet of dogs must necessarily consist of 2/3 of the weight of animal proteins (fish, cottage cheese, meat) and 1/3 of vegetarian products. When making the calculation, it must be taken into account that one weight part of meat is replaced by: 1.5 weight parts of the raw weight of fish, whole cow's milk or low-fat cottage cheese and 0.75 parts of fat cottage cheese.

Replacing meat with offal, which should be given mainly in boiled form, can be made starting from 6-7 months. age of the dog, in the following quantity:

Liver, kidneys - 1.2 times more than meat;

Lungs, tripe - 1.5 times more than meat;

An udder without fat (well soaked, boiled twice with a change of water after the first boil) - 2 times more;

Heart - 1/4 less than meat;

1 egg replaces 100 g of meat.

Meat should not be very fatty. You can give beef, horse meat, lamb, but not pork. It is desirable that the puppy and later the adult dog receive only raw meat. Feeding only boiled foods leads to a weakening of the immune system, which, in turn, increases the risk of infection of the dog with infectious diseases; in addition, it leads to bad breath.

At 2.5 months, it is useful to start accustoming a puppy to eating fish: first boiled, then raw sea fish fillet - thawed! - without bones. You can replace meat with fish 1-2 times a week.

Vegetables(carrots, rutabaga, cabbage, turnips) - they are given to dogs mainly in boiled or stewed form. A small part of vegetables (mainly carrots) can be given raw - grated with the addition of vegetable oil.

Greens(lettuce, spinach, dandelion leaves, young nettles, green onions) is recommended to be given to dogs in small quantities, adding to prepared food washed and finely chopped. Leaves of young nettles are scalded with boiling water, dandelion leaves are placed in very salty cold water for 1 hour.

From cereals Hercules and buckwheat should be preferred. Rice is well digested, but not recommended for overweight dogs.

Dairy in terms of their nutritional composition, digestibility and assimilation, they are very valuable food, especially for puppies, nursing bitches and puppies. In the diet of dogs include cottage cheese, kefir (low-fat), acidophilus. Pure milk should not be given to a puppy to drink, because being a drink, not food, it burdens and stretches the stomach, is non-caloric and spoils the appetite for the next feeding.

Supplements and vitamins.

1. The dog's carbohydrate needs are met by dry black bread. You can soak crackers in kefir.

2. The inclusion of unsaturated fatty acids in the diet is often required, the best source of them is vegetable oil. It improves the condition of the coat and the general condition of the body (butter is not good).

3. At least once a week, the dog should be given an egg yolk or a whole egg boiled "in a bag". Crude protein destroys a valuable biotype for the body.

4. Garlic is good to give the dog all his life 1-2 cloves a week (this prevents infection with worms).

5. Young shoots of oats are very useful for a puppy, especially in winter: the grains are placed in wet gauze for sprouting, and then planted in a box with earth.

6. Mineral top dressing up to a year is required. Calcium gluconate is used. One month old puppy - 1 tablet, at 2 months old - 2 tablets, 3 months old - 2.5 tablets, from 4 months old - 3 tablets. An overdose of calcium makes the collie's ears erect. Calcium supplements are best absorbed with dairy products.

7. Vitamin D2 in oil must be given to the puppy one drop every other day (with an excess of sun, vitamin D2 should not be given).

8. Puppies can eat honey - 1/2 teaspoon per day. In winter, it is advisable to add 1 teaspoon of rosehip syrup to milk porridge or cottage cheese.

9. Seaweed (contains B vitamins) promotes hair growth and shine, gives the eyes and nose a dark color, strengthens the entire body. By the year, the dose of seaweed can be brought up to 1-2 teaspoons per day. B vitamins are also found in black bread, onions and green onions.

10. To stimulate hair growth during the molting period, you can give a medical preparation - methionine - no more than 2 tablets per day.

It is forbidden to include in the diet of dogs:

Legumes (peas, beans, lentils) and corn;

Boiled potatoes (small amounts of raw potatoes are allowed);

Pasta and white bread. Due to the absence of a specific microflora in the stomach and intestines of the dog that promotes the digestion of these products, such feeds cause the formation of mucus and toxins in the digestive canal of the dog, which drastically reduce the absorption of meat and other useful by-products;

Chocolate, sweets, sweets;

Fatty meat, especially raw (causes diarrhea);

A large number of cereals and bread (causes constipation);

Smoked meats, canned food and everything spicy;

Bones. The bones are digested by the dog's intestines and do not cause perforation of the walls and blockages only if the dog runs 200-300 kilometers a day. This is the average workload of a growing dog. Under natural conditions, all canids (wolves, jackals, foxes, wild dogs, etc.) migrate a lot and constantly, running many hundreds of kilometers every day. The typical useful use of a collie in our "urban age" is as a home friend and guardian of children, a companion in sports and games, an accompaniment and protection dog in tourism and walks, a dog for personal protection and free guarding of property. Such functions do not carry the necessary motor load. Hence - hypodynamia and reduced activity of the digestive tract.

Tubular, bird and fish bones are very dangerous, as they can injure the esophagus and stomach. Fatal cases have been reported. Only a small puppy (up to 4-5 months old) can be given large raw bones to gnaw and play (especially during the change of teeth).

Quantity The food given to the dog must provide the necessary type of constitution and working qualities for this breed: the dog must be lively and mobile. She should neither be too fat nor too emaciated.

The daily ration of a puppy (from 6 months old) should be 1/20 of its weight (including liquid). For an adult dog, this is 1/25 of the weight.

Diet for weaned puppies(2nd month of life).

A puppy taken from its mother falls into altered nutritional conditions: the complete absence of mother's milk, instead of which, in the hands of an inexperienced owner, food unsuitable for a puppy is often fed, which ultimately leads to rickets (curvature of the limbs, deformation of the skull and chest, sagging of the back and etc.)

In order to avoid rickets, which sometimes takes an irreversible form, a real diet has been compiled to help the owner. When using it, you should take into account the individual characteristics of the puppy; his height, weight, fatness, appetite.

In order for the change in the conditions of detention to be painless, the first 2 days should not change the puppy’s diet and nutrition system, for this you need to take from the breeder a list of “dishes” that he fed the puppies with and the feeding schedule.

Up to 2 months, the puppy is fed 6 times a day every 3 hours.

A. Daily allowance for the first 10 days after weaning

1st feeding: (8 am)	Curd calcined, diluted with milk to the consistency of sour cream. It is prepared as follows: in 0.5 l of boiling milk, add 1 tablespoon of 10% calcium chloride solution (purchased at a pharmacy), after three minutes, when the serum becomes greenish, strain through cheesecloth or cloth, 1/2 calcium gluconate tablet, pounded into powder.	50 g each feeding by volume approx. 1/2 cup
2nd feeding: (11 a.m.)	Raw meat - scraped with a knife or ground through a meat grinder twice (minced meat only homemade). Vitamin D2 in oil - 1 drop (every other day). Vegetables boiled in meat broth and mashed with a fork with the addition of vegetable oil.	50 g
3rd feeding: (14 hours)	Meat soup with vegetables, hercules or buckwheat and finely chopped boiled meat.	100 g
4th feeding: (17 hours)	Buckwheat porridge or hercules in pure cow's milk, sour cream consistency. You can use baby food, after sifting through a sieve to remove excess sugar. 1/2 teaspoon honey. 1/2 tablet of calcium gluconate, powdered.	100 g
5th feeding: (20 hours)	"Corrected" milk is prepared as follows: "Baby" nutrient mixture is added to ordinary cow's milk at the rate of 1 tablespoon per glass.	100 g 150 g
6th feeding: (23 hours)	Raw meat. Boiled vegetables. You can give a variety of fruit juices and fruits. Raw egg yolk once a day.	50 g 50 g

B. Daily allowance for the second 10 days after weaning

The products remain the same, but the norm increases: raw meat (100-150 g), calcined cottage cheese (up to 75 g), boiled or stewed vegetables (150 g).

C. Daily value for the third 10 days after weaning 6 feedings remain, the volume of each increases to a glass or more, depending on the puppy's appetite. Raw meat (150 g), calcined cottage cheese (100 g), boiled or stewed vegetables (up to 200 g), raw vegetables (2 teaspoons), gradually replace “corrected” milk with kefir.

The diet of puppies from 2 to 4 months.

During the period of the most rapid growth of the puppy and the change of teeth - from 3 to 7 months - deficiencies in feeding affect the dog quickly and irreparably. During this period, the cost of keeping a dog is the highest, by the year it is noticeably reduced.

Diet for puppies aged 2 to 4 months

1st feeding: (8 am)	Cottage cheese calcined with acidophilus or kefir 1-2 teaspoons of honey. Grated apple, raisins or baby food "Sissy". Raw egg yolk (every other day). 1 tablet of calcium gluconate.	150-200 g
2nd feeding: (11 hours 30 minutes)	The meat is raw, cut into small pieces. Vitamin D2 in oil 1 drop every other day.	80-100 g
3rd feeding (3 pm)	Meat soup with vegetables, hercules, buckwheat. Add seaweed at the tip of a knife.	150 g
4th feeding:	Milk porridge (buckwheat, oatmeal). Hercules is better not to cook, but pour boiling milk, close the lid and let stand for 30-40 minutes. 1/2 tablespoon of vegetable oil. 1/2 teaspoon honey. 1 tablet of calcium gluconate.	100 g
5th feeding:	The meat is raw.	80-100 g

Diet for an adult dog.

From six months, you can switch to 3 meals a day. Starting from 8-10 months (depending on the individual characteristics of the dog), when the growth of teeth ends, the puppy is transferred to the diet of an adult dog, namely: