A gas burner is a special device that ensures uniform combustion of gas and allows you to regulate the supply of fuel. Often, not every person can afford such a device, however, a do-it-yourself gas burner made from scrap materials will be an economical and practical alternative to factory counterparts.

The main components for the manufacture of powerful gas burners are industrial valves. They may be new, but for a homemade device, it is enough to use used ones in the absence of a gas leak. They are designed to work in tandem with a 50-liter propane gas cylinder with an angle valve and a reducer.

Burner with valve VK-74

The device of this burner is shown in fig. 1. The valve of the oxygen cylinder VK-74 is taken as the basis. A fitting-handle machined on a lathe is installed to the outlet end, to the corrugated part of which a hose from the cylinder is connected. A cap with a prepared threaded hole for the jet is screwed onto the part of the valve with a K3 / 4˝ conical thread, with which it was connected to the gas cylinder. You can use a ready-made version of a blowtorch or gas stove.

The nozzle is made from a piece of steel pipe 1/4˝ 100 mm long and welded to the cap on two pieces of wire ∅5 mm. A distance of 15 mm should be left between the cap and the nozzle for air to enter the combustion zone. By bending the wire holders, the position of the nozzle is adjusted to achieve the center position of the flame.

The sequence of actions for ignition of the burner:

1. Open the cylinder valve;
2. Bring a lit match to the nozzle and slowly open the burner valve;
3. Control gas ignition;
4. Regulate the flame with the burner valve

By the way! The highest flame temperature is at the end of the green-blue part of the torch.

A home-made gas burner of this design has one drawback associated with the peculiarity of the location of the valve. The gas flow is directed in the opposite direction to the normal position. Stuffing box seals experience constant gas pressure (including when the valve is closed), so it is necessary to constantly monitor the tightness of the seals.

Attention! The VK-74 valve should only be used when adjusting the flame. Stop gas supply only at the cylinder

Burner converted from acetylene gas cutter

If you have an acetylene torch with a defective oxygen supply valve, do not rush to throw it away. It will also fit for the manufacture of a burner (Fig. 2.). Alterations require a mixing chamber, the contents of which must be removed to reduce weight. You will need to remove the oxygen barrel and valve. Solder the resulting hole with hard solder. Connect the hose coming from the gas cylinder reducer to the M16 × 1.5 left-hand threaded fitting.

With a union nut on the mixing chamber, fix a home-made tip bent at 45 ° to make it more convenient to work with the burner. Screw the flange with the nozzle welded to it onto the thread of the tip.

One of the options for the execution of such a burner is the use of a cap with an M22 × 1.5 thread. The design of the nozzle here is similar to the nozzle of the burner described above. Homemade gas burner is ready to go.

Gas mini burner

Mini gas burners are more suitable for working with small parts. The mini burner is based on a ball inflation needle. It is necessary to make a cut in it, a little further than the middle of the needle. Some needles already have a similar hole, which greatly speeds up the work process. Next, you need to take a syringe needle, and bend it about 45 degrees in the middle.

The design of the mini gas burner

The pointed end of the syringe needle is best sharpened so that it is straight. After that, it must be inserted into the ball needle in such a way that one of its ends comes out through the hole, and the other protrudes from the large needle by several mm. The resulting mini design should be fixed with soldering. After that, droppers must be attached to the bases of the two needles. Clamps - Dropper regulators should be moved as close to the needles as possible. In the resulting burner, they will act as regulators for the supply of gas and air. They also need to be fastened together, and this is best done with a thermal gun. It remains only to connect a source of compressed gas to the finished device, the burner is ready for use. Such a homemade gas burner can heat objects up to 1000 degrees. It should be handled with care and safety precautions.

Infrared heater

The use of homemade gas burners may suggest the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bcreating an infrared heater with your own hands. Such heaters are designed to heat houses or garages, in the face of ever-increasing gas prices. The easiest way to keep warm is to use ordinary food foil. It must be mounted on the wall behind the battery. Heat flows will be reflected from the aluminum surface into the room, which will not allow heat to escape through the walls.

In a more complex version, you can use a spiral. To do this, you need to purchase an incandescent spiral and an infrared port in the store. Making such a device is quite simple: the spiral must be laid in a metal block that is connected to the mains. An infrared port is attached to the resulting structure. This device works on the basis of the ability of the port to distribute thermal information received from the hot coil into the room.

For garages or other small non-residential premises, a heater based on a small tin box and graphite sand is best suited. Such a device is quite compact, it does not require much space, while doing an excellent job with the tasks assigned to it. Before starting work, the container must be thoroughly rinsed and dried. It can be of any diameter and size, it is important that it fully fits your ideas about what the future heater should be like.

Graphite must be mixed with fine sand in a ratio of one to one and half filled in the box. From a sheet of tin, you need to cut a circle with a diameter suitable for an iron container, and attach a lead wire to its edges. This structure must be laid on a mixture of sand and granite, after which it is covered with the remaining mixture. Next, the container must be tightly closed with a lid in order to artificially create pressure inside it. The second wire of the container body is connected to the car battery.

You can regulate the heating temperature of such a device using a cover. With tighter twisting, the temperature of the tin box will be stronger. With less, it will lose heat. It is important not to allow such a heater to overheat. In such cases, the box will begin to glow with a red or orange glow. When overheated, the process of sand sintering occurs, which leads to a loss in the efficiency of the home-made gas burner. To restore it, internally shake the device.

A gas infrared heater is more expensive in terms of materials, as it requires the purchase of a small infrared ceramic heater. It is best not to buy a large device, since it will “eat” from a small propane tank, 1 liter in volume. In addition, a burner is needed - a nozzle with a special tap. First of all, you need to get rid of all the burner nozzles, leaving only the pipe and tap. A hose is put on the pipe, which should be a little more than half a meter long. A gas cylinder is connected to this device. It is very important that it be in a vertical position, since the movement of gas goes up, and not horizontally. Such a heater works for two hours on a conventional 200-gram cylinder.

Fishermen often use a similar device during winter fishing in a tent. The stock of cylinders with gas allows you to comfortably spend the night on the ice. In addition, this design is safe, there is no open flame in it, which can cause harm. It takes 10 minutes for a ceramic tile to fully warm up, after which it begins to actively radiate heat, heating the air around it.

How to make a gas burner with your own hands? Or a heater? Very simple! The main thing is to know the internal structure of these devices in order to have an idea about its operation. After that, making a homemade design will not be difficult. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions when working with open fire or its sources.

Hello everyone, today we will make a Bunsen gas burner from improvised means! It will not be just a stationary burner, but a burner that, if necessary, you can safely hold in your hands and not be afraid to get burned. It will not be difficult to make it, all the materials used must be at hand, and its scope is quite wide.

The author often uses a gas stove in his works, but it is not very convenient to work with it, and therefore the idea came to him to purchase something less bulky and convenient. Having rummaged around on Aliexpress, as well as visiting specialized stores, he found a lot of burners, but as usual, the price did not suit him and therefore he decided to assemble such a burner himself, especially since all the necessary parts were at hand.

There was an old and cheap Chinese burner, which faithfully served him for several years. It has a suitable gas supply regulator and it sits cylinders that are sold in every hardware, construction or fishing store.

It will be needed for adjustment. So, let's begin! First you need to unscrew the standard burner, put on a silicone long hose of a suitable size instead of it and put it aside for now. By the way, if necessary, you can screw the standard burner back if necessary!

For the manufacture of a new burner, the author used tubes from an air conditioner with an inner diameter of 8 and 5 mm. You can take any copper tube. First you need to cut off a piece of a tube with a diameter of 8 mm, 10 cm long and clean it from the resulting jagged, on the inside and outside.

Now you need to saw off a piece of thin tube about 4 centimeters.

To make a nozzle, you need to cut off a piece of a medical needle.

When biting off the needle, the edge can be crushed, so it needs to be cleaned with a file, and then cleaned with a thin wire.

The end of the thick tube must be crushed with pliers so that the needle fits tightly there.

Further, the author used phosphoric acid. With its help, he processed a crushed piece of a tube with a needle and soldered a thick copper wire, and soldered a gap in the tube.

He then soldered the second piece of tube as shown in the photo below. The author recommends rinsing acid treatment areas with water to wash off excess and prevent oxidation of the copper tube and needle.

Now you can immediately check the burner, for this you need to connect the postponed silicone hose, which the author connected to the Chinese burner at the beginning and connect the other end to the new burner.

The author's first burner test was not particularly successful, it ignited poorly and went out almost immediately. Then he noticed that if you cover the lower part of the burner with your fingers and reduce the oxygen supply, then the flame is quite well regulated.

So you need an adjustment! For this, the author took the M8 bolt, something like the one in the photo below.

I straightened the wire that holds the two parts of the burner so that the needle rests against the wall of the thick tube. Then I drilled a hole for the bolt with a 7 drill, at the very beginning of the thick tube. In order for the hole to turn out normal, the author recommends first drilling with a thin drill, and then drilling with a thick one. Then he took a tap and cut a thread for an M8 bolt.

With a bolt, the flame does not go out and the air supply can be regulated.

In order to make the adjustment more reliable and so that the copper thread does not quickly slip off, the author recommends strengthening it with a metal nut. Best suited rectangular shape as in the photo below.

To do this, you need to take a file and clean all the soldering points.

Next, you need to attach the nut to the place of soldering, fix it, for this you need to screw the bolt first into the nut, and then into the thread on the tube and solder it well from all sides. Do not forget to treat all surfaces to be soldered with soldering acid!

Here's what he ended up with.

Due to the fact that the bolt cannot be fully screwed in, the needle will never be pinched or damaged!

It turned out quite nice and comfortable burner, you can safely hold it in your hands and work.

When the gas passes through the tube, it cools it, and the flame practically does not touch the burner, so the copper tube does not heat up enough to burn the hand. With such a burner it is convenient to warm the lock in the garage in winter, since gas cylinders usually do not work in sub-zero temperatures, you can put the cylinder under your jacket in warmth, and work with a burner even in fierce -50.

In order not to keep the burner constantly in his hands, the author decided to make a stand for it. To do this, you need to make two loops of wire on the burner. Loops need to be done by eye, something like in the photo below. Be careful when soldering them, as all connections can simply fall apart from overheating!

After the loops are soldered, file all the protruding parts of the wire to give the burners a more beautiful look.

Now you need to make a tripod for the burner. To do this, the author took a piece of thick plywood and drilled a hole from the edge with a thin drill. He inserted a piece of thick copper wire into this hole. The burner is mounted on a tripod with the help of soldered loops, it does not fall off it and keeps well enough.

The burner assembly works as it should, with the bolt screwed in, it acts as a candle and gives a flame of low temperature. And if you open the air supply, the flame becomes pure blue and gives a higher temperature.

You can make a gas burner for soldering yourself. The design has a different configuration. Often dimensions do not exceed ballpoint pen length. It is used to heat the metal for the purpose of subsequent hardening or welding. In some cases, a burner is made to heat the bitumen on the roof. Homemade devices are much cheaper than purchased counterparts.

Description of the principle of operation

The principle of operation of a gas burner is based on the directional supply of a mixture of gas and oxygen. At the same time, the supply torch maintains a constant shape and temperature. As a result, after heating 2 surfaces, their hermetic connection is formed using molten solder. This material must have sufficient adhesion, adhere well to hot surfaces and have strength after cooling. The gas burner keeps the solder at such a temperature that it becomes viscous. In this case, the total heating should not exceed the melting point of the base material.

In some cases, a little heat is applied. This is required when it is necessary to dismantle a press fit part. For example, bushing or bearing. This is especially applicable to cases where the parts have different coefficients of expansion. Heating is also used in jobs where welding cannot be used.

DIY manufacturing process

To make homemade equipment, you need to take into account some nuances:

• The output device gives a temperature of 1000 degrees. Therefore, refractory metals are used in the manufacture.
• An important condition for safe operation is a reliable crane. In the event of an accident, it must quickly cut off the air flow.
• Reliability of the gas connection.

A manual gas burner for do-it-yourself soldering can be made in the form of a miniature fixture. For the manufacture of such mini-equipment materials needed:

• brass or copper pipes;
• a block of wood;
• silicone or fluoroplastic as a sealing material.

The drawing of the device consists of a body in the form of a pipe ending with a nozzle. On the other side, a gas supply hose is installed. The nozzle is equipped with a divider for adjusting the flame.

A do-it-yourself gas burner for soldering is made in the following order:

• A faucet is attached to the tube with silicone.
• On the other hand, the tube is muffled and a hole of 0.2-0.3 mm is made in it. For this, a special drill and chuck are used.
• After that, the burner is clamped in a vice and the hole is flattened to 0.1 mm with a hammer.
• Sandpaper removes all burrs.

The divider can be made from a brass tube that is larger than the diameter of the burner. Mounting is carried out parallel to the body. The system will work on the principle of a tourist stove. In the place where the gas comes out of the nozzle, a vacuum is formed and air is sucked in.

Device with two needles

A miniature do-it-yourself propane burner is made from 2 needles. One needle can be taken from the pump, and the other from the syringe. You will also need two droppers and a compressor from the aquarium. The device is connected to a cartridge for charging lighters. You will also need copper wire.

The temperature in such a burner reaches 1000 degrees. It is made in the following order:

The gas coming from the canister is mixed in a thick needle with the air coming from the compressor. The composition of the mixture is changed by regulators.

If there is no compressor, you can replace it with a plastic bottle:

The burner is ready for use.

The design of the device with piezo ignition

A portable gas torch with piezo ignition for soldering is characterized by the formation of a stable flame. The device consists of a cylinder that contains gas. A nozzle is installed on top. It is attached with a hose-adapter.

This design does not require heating, it does not clog and odors do not accumulate in it. It has small dimensions, weight and cost.

The task of the piezo ignition is to automatically ignite the fuel. This is convenient when there are no matches. However, this and the most vulnerable part of the structure. With proper care, it will last a long time.

A gas burner for soldering at home is a necessary thing. With its help, copper and brass items are repaired. These are the parts that make up radiators and heat exchangers. The device is of great help during the repair of the car body, when high temperatures can cause metal warping.

Kudel Master © 2013 Copying site materials is allowed only with the indication of the author and a direct link to the source site

Burnerking

or the saga of the burners. Part 1

Recently, our vocabulary has been enriched with new terms from various areas of public life (petting, pehting, etc.) In order to keep up with fashion and the progressive public, I called my opus" Burnerking or the saga of burners (homemade)" .
I have long had a warm (sometimes even hot) relationship with burners. Therefore, I share information with a special feeling.
It should be noted right away that we are talking about gas, propane burners. And it is injection ones, because the oxidizer (air) is sucked into them by itself with the help of a jet of combustible gas (not to be confused with explosive gas) directed to the burner outlet. Sometimes, however, air gravity is not enough, and to increase the combustion temperature of the mixture, air is pumped by a blower. But in any case, the air is not used from a cylinder, but simply atmospheric. Therefore, only one tube with gas is suitable for this type of burner, namely from a propane cylinder.Because in order to choose the right burner for your purposes,it’s not enough just to show a photo and write something, I had to record video clips. They give a clearer picture of the operation of these devices.

mini burner

This torch was originally created for soldering filigree with very small parts, so the main focus is on reducing the diameter of the flame tongue. At that time, when this burner was made, small burners with a gas cartridge in the form of a burner handle were not yet sold. Therefore, the universal medium burner (description below) is taken as the basis and all dimensions are proportionally reduced.

Soldering small parts. Sometimes there are not enough hands to add solder and hold filigree elements :) A feature of this burner is the use of a divider. This achieves flame stability over the entire pressure range (within reasonable limits, of course), namely from 0.2 to 3 kg/cm2. The amount of air is not adjustable. It is matched with the diameter of the suction holes. If, nevertheless, you feel the urge to regulate the enrichment of the mixture, place a piece of silicone tube inside the knurled ring and, by rotating the ring, you can adjust it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is about 0.12 mm.

One of the ways to manufacture the nozzle is shown. The capillary is soldered to a screw screwed into the tube. Screw on FUM. We observe alignment. It is possible without a capillary by drilling an M3 brass screw on the machine.
And what really needs to be adjusted here is the position of the tube with the nozzle. After igniting the burner, we move the tube back and forth and, having found the optimal position, fix it with a screw.

This torch is the most versatile torch for brazing small to medium sized jewelry. (Of course, if you do not need both hands to be free :) But the adjustment can be done with the same hand that holds the burner.
It also contains a divider and therefore will never go out on its own at any normal propane pressure.
Adjusting the flame with the same hand. The silicone tube protects the place where it is hung on the hook. Ebonite handle. When properly adjusted, the burner produces a narrow, long flame.

A heat-insulating sleeve is made around the burner head. Its use allows you to warm up the head, this can slightly increase the temperature of the flame. It is made of asbestos fiber with the addition of kaolin and liquid glass.
The object to be soldered must be in the flame recovery zone. You can check this by putting a piece of copper wire into the flame. In the reduction zone, the metal surface becomes shiny.

The nozzle on this burner is made in the same way as on the previous one. The matched nozzle hole diameter is 0.16 mm.
The amount of air can also be adjusted by placing a piece of silicone tube of the appropriate diameter inside the ring. But with the dimensions as in my drawing, the mixture is already quite balanced.

Medium straight burner

As you can see, I didn’t really care about the names of the burners, because the headings must be different. You have to call them something.
The next burner differs from the previous ones in the geometry of the location of the components, and the principles of operation are the same.

This burner has a softer flame, so it is better to use it for heating something (annealing wire, patination) or where the previous one cannot reach. It has the same splitter as the previous burners. And peculiarly made air suction.

There is no drawing for this burner, because the main parameters are the same as the previous burner. The head and divider, as well as the diameter of the duct, are the same. And, most importantly, the nozzle diameter is the same.

Large hand burner

This burner is similar to previous hand burners. All parameters are the same, only the power is increased. This burner can solder not only filigree, but also copper tubes of refrigerators.

The only standard component in this burner is the gas cock. But not a checkpoint, as in previous cases, but a corner one. Everything is attached to it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.23 mm.

Addition 1

Today I received another letter with a request to explain where to get capillaries and how to make a nozzle in general. It was even proposed to use electroerosion. I didn't even think it would be a problem.
So, this is how I do it. First of all, I got used to using M3 screws for injectors (a regular screw with a 3 mm diameter thread, metric).
So, take your box of M3 screws, dump it out and spread it out in an even layer. Then take the magnet and pull out all the attracting screws. You end up with screws that don't attract. The fact that they look the same as the rest should not deceive you. These are galvanized brass screws. Pictured under number 1.
If there is no M3 brass, nothing prevents you from doing this with M4.

Here are five ways for you:
- immediately drill a hole with the required drill diameter. But this is for fairly large holes and with a precision drill.
- drill on both sides of the screw with a large drill, but not completely. Then pierce this jumper with a needle or drill with a small drill.
- drill with a large drill and then fill the hole with POS solder, and then work with it, which is much easier.
- drill with a large drill, and then solder a stainless wire of the appropriate diameter coaxially into the screw with POS solder. And then pull out the wire.
And, finally, you can solder the POS with a low-melting solder into a drilled hole in a capillary of the appropriate diameter.
So, capillaries, that is, thin tubes.
Under number 2 are capillaries from instrument recorders. It is unlikely that you feel better from such advice.
But under the number 3 is the most realistic option. When the doctor gives you an injection, do not groan, do not feel sorry for yourself, but gather your will into a fist and ask the doctor to give you a needle as a keepsake. He will give, he does not mind. Thus, for your sick life and your loved ones, you will collect an extensive collection of capillaries. And if you are lucky enough to make injections with imported syringes, then the assortment will become much richer. They also have very thin needles, for example, for vaccinations.
Do not forget to also collect a collection of steel elastic wires for cleaning capillaries - number 4.
Number 5 - my new gas stove came with a whole set of nozzles with different hole diameters.
And finally, 6-terminal clamps for the installation of stranded electrical wires. A whole bunch of different sizes.

Supplement 2

Sometimes workers complain that the burner does not work or works somehow wrong. Only working designs are laid out here, there are no theoretical ones. It means that they did not see or did not understand the principle of operation of the burners. Now I will try to explain using the example of a mini-burner. To do this, I will give a simplified diagram of this particular design.

1. Ensure that the supply gas pressure is within the acceptable range of 0.2-4 kg/cm2. And the most working range is from 0.5 to 2.5 kg / cm2. And the nozzle hole diameter is 0.12 +/-0.02 mm.
2. The air intake holes are not closed.
3. In the picture. The diameter of the tube with the supplied gas-air mixture is 3.5 mm. And the central hole in the divider with a diameter of 3 mm. That is, 0.5 mm less. Therefore, part of the flow of the gas-air mixture diverges to the sides into small holes. The flow velocity through these holes is less than the main flow. These small holes are just designed to ignite the main stream. And because of the low speed of the gas-air mixture, they burn stably through them and do not allow the flame of the main stream to be blown away. This is true for all burners of this type, as shown on this page, with flame spreaders.
4. Based on the above, check if there is a gap of 2 mm between both parts of the burner head. With proper manufacture according to the drawings, this gap will be. Otherwise, you will observe only the central torch, without side lights, which is easily blown away when the pressure of the gas entering the nozzle increases.

On the left is a broken burner. On the right, as it should be.
5. And a few words about the position of the nozzle. The section of the capillary from which the gas comes out, you need to choose its position already with the burner running in the area opposite the air intake holes, or up to these holes. And, of course, the tube with the capillary should not block the air holes.

Many home craftsmen know what a gas burner is. Thanks to it, it is possible to perform welding, surfacing and other types of processing of metal products, heat them and connect them. The principle of operation of such a device is to mix combustible gas and oxygen. As a result, a stable flame can be obtained, which has a huge temperature, which is difficult to extinguish. Such burners can be universal or designed for specific jobs. The fact that the flame is stable makes it possible to use this unit outdoors even in windy conditions. You can either buy it or make it at home. If you are not one of those who are looking for easy ways, we suggest you figure out how to make a gas burner for soldering with your own hands.

Materials and tools for work

To make a regular burner, you will need the following parts and tools:

• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• sandpaper;
• brass blanks for the nozzle and divider;
• thin brass tube Ø15 mm;
• wooden bars;
• vise;
• FUM tape or silicone seal;
• connecting hoses;
• control valve.

Manufacture of handles and nozzles

Take a brass tube and attach a handle to it. If you have a handle from an old burner, you can use it - it will be much more convenient. If not, you can take a wooden block. To make the handle fit comfortably in the hand, it can be processed. It needs to drill a hole for a brass tube. Their diameter must match. After that, the tube is pushed into the beam and fixed there with silicone or epoxy.

For ease of work, the brass tube must be bent above the handle at an angle of 45˚.

The next step is the manufacture of the nozzle. This is a laborious and long process. It needs to be approached with more responsibility. The desired nozzle hole size is 0.1 mm. It is clear that it will be very difficult to achieve this size on your own without special equipment, so you need to drill a hole a little wider and fit the edges to the desired size. Everything must be done carefully so that the hole is even and does not direct the flame in different directions. After making a hole, fix the workpiece in a vise. Then gently strike the future nozzle with a hammer. This should be done vertically, with a "branch" to the center of the workpiece. Gradually, the part must be scrolled, providing a perfect hole without a slope.

After chasing the part, the nozzle head needs to be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. The back of the part should be threaded to connect it to the tube. A simpler connection method is soldering the nozzle to the pipe. But it should be noted that in this case, the repair of any parts will be very difficult to perform.

In principle, that's all, now you can connect a gas cylinder to the tube, set it on fire and the unit is ready to work. But, now there are some difficulties that interfere with normal work and bring inconvenience. It turns out that the gas flow can be regulated only by opening and closing the valve on the gas cylinder. In this case, it will be very difficult to achieve the required flame strength. What to do?

Work to improve flame regulation

To ensure the normal operation of our burner, it is necessary to equip it with a divider and a tap. A suitable place for mounting the tap is near the handle, 2-4 cm higher. But it can also be installed on the supply pipe. A tap from the burner of an expired autogenous burner or its other analogue will do. It is permanently fixed on the tube with a threaded connection. Use FUM tape to seal the connection.

The divider will be installed on the pipe with the nozzle. It also needs to be made of brass Ø 15 mm. The best option is a cylindrical part with a hole for a tube with a nozzle. If there is none, do the following:

1. Take a brass pipe Ø 35 mm and cut a piece of 100–150 mm.
2. Stepping back from the end, mark with a marker 3-5 points evenly distant from each other.
3. Drill 8–10 mm holes in it with a drill and use a grinder to make even cuts to them.
4. Now you can bend everything to the center and weld it to the burner tube.

To properly fix the divider, it must be placed so that the nozzle protrudes 2–3 mm from the junction. Such a device serves two purposes: to protect the flame from strong winds and to provide it with a flow of oxygen, which is necessary for a more stable and stronger flame.

All welding spots can be smoothed out with a grinder. Then your homemade burner will look more solid. That's all. Now it remains only to supply gas and use the burner for its intended purpose.

Making a mini burner

If you need to work with small parts or boards, then such a large torch will not suit you at all. In this case, you can make a small burner from improvised means, which will produce temperatures up to 1000ºC. You will need:

1. Regular dropper - 2 pcs.
2. Needle for inflating balls.
3. Needle for a medical syringe.
4. Soldering iron.
5. File.
6. Copper wire.
7. Pliers.
8. Grinding stone.
9. Flux for soldering.
10. Thermal gun.

Armed with all the tools, you can get to work. For convenience, we divide the process into the following steps:

Gas will pass through a thick tube, and compressed air through a thin (medical) tube. You can change the pressure of gas and compressed air thanks to the dropper regulators. Such a small burner will be useful for home use.

A gas burner is a useful tool in the right hands. In order to have it, it is not necessary to go to the store and spend money on a purchase. Everything can be done by yourself. The main thing is to prepare all the materials and tools, as well as to research the technology for making the burner. Before starting work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the design of the tool and the principle of its operation. Then it will be much easier for you to do everything yourself.

Video

Watch a video on how to make a burner from improvised materials:

Video about making a miniature gas burner: