Kyrgyz national headdress. Elechek is a female headdress. Turbans became widespread in Kyrgyzstan

Each nation of the world has its own characteristics, which are absolutely normal and ordinary for them, but if a person of a different nationality falls into their environment, he may be very surprised at the habits and traditions of the inhabitants of this country, because they will not coincide with his own ideas about life. We invite you to find out 10 national habits and characteristics of the Kyrgyz, which may seem surprising and a little strange to the inhabitants of Russia.

They measure the status by the height of the cap

People in felt hats can be seen on Bishkek or Osh streets both in the stifling heat in summer and in the bitter cold in winter. And all because the tradition of determining the status of a man by his cap is still alive here. Ordinary people traditionally wore low caps, while representatives of the upper strata wore more elongated ones. Older people and those with a special status traditionally wear "bakai kalpak": a headdress made of white felt with black intersecting edging and hand embroidery.

They play polo with a goat carcass

The most popular national game kok-boru is somewhat reminiscent of polo, where the carcass of a goat or its dummy is used instead of a ball. The main goal is to throw the goat onto a special structure on the territory of the opposing team or gallop with it to a previously agreed place somewhere on the top of the mountain. In early September 2016, Kyrgyzstan hosted the second World Nomad Games, designed to preserve the martial arts and games of nomadic peoples and revive their interest in them. In addition to kok-boru, the game program included various types of wrestling, including belt wrestling, horse racing, archery and complex hunting games.

They fumigate markets with evil eye smoke

In markets in the Kyrgyz Republic, women can often be seen strolling along rows of smoking stupas fanning every other stall with this sour, piercing smoke. Archa (juniper) smokes in stupas, and its smoke is considered an excellent remedy for the evil eye and evil spirits. Thus, these women earn modestly, but nevertheless they earn: without demand, they blow over the shop, and its owner is already forced to pay a small amount, often 10–20 soms (1 ruble = 1.06 soms).

Their yurts can cost more than a foreign car

The art of making Kyrgyz yurts boz-uy was recently included in the UNESCO heritage list. The yurt continues to occupy an important place in the life of the Kyrgyz: families live in them during the seasonal transfer of cattle, kindergartens are organized for the children of nomads in yurts, and throughout the country, yurts are used as temporary points of sale or places of public meetings. The cost of a yurt varies depending on its size, capacity and materials: the cheapest will cost about 80,000 rubles, and as for the most expensive, there is no limit to perfection. On the forums, you can see advertisements for the sale of yurts for both $ 3,000 and $ 15,000. At the same time, the service life of a yurt is much longer than that of an average foreign car - about 25 years in nomadic conditions.

They build yurts for the dead

The yurt has occupied and continues to occupy an important place in funeral rites. Even in Bishkek, in the courtyards between the five-story buildings, one can sometimes see memorial yurts. The family of the deceased builds a yurt, leaves the deceased in it for two nights and three days, and thus allows all relatives, acquaintances and neighbors to say goodbye to him. At the same time, close relatives of the deceased remain in the yurt around the clock.

They steal brides

Ala-kachuu, the rite of kidnapping the bride, is still preserved in Kyrgyzstan, although human rights organizations are strenuously fighting it. According to them, more than 15,000 girls annually become victims of the ceremony, despite the fact that it is punishable under criminal law. At the same time, only a small number of thefts are staged, most of the girls are forcibly stolen. If the bride is stolen, then she will be obliged to marry her captor. The final gesture of ala-kachuu is a white scarf: if the eldest woman in the family puts it on the girl's head, she becomes a bride. If the bride tries to escape, the groom's mother or grandmother usually lies across the threshold. A girl, according to local customs, has no right to offend an elder - to step over him. Public organizations in Kyrgyzstan are doing a lot of educational work: they publish posters in which they tell in detail what to do in case of a theft, urge the older generation to abandon the old rituals, publish social videos in which they talk about the importance of the girl's independent choice.

They build summer cottages from shipping containers

Traveling around Kyrgyzstan, you pay attention to the amazing attachment of local residents to decommissioned cargo containers. A whole market is made up of them in Bishkek according to the LEGO principle, they also make excellent garages and office premises, and two or three containers in a row with carved windows turn into a dacha. One container costs a little less than $ 1000, several times cheaper than a good yurt, and is erected almost as quickly. In general, the Kyrgyz do not lag behind modern trends in architecture and follow the principles of recycling with might and main.

Their table is the floor

Travelers planning a trip to the Kyrgyz Republic should be prepared for the daily gymnastic overtures they will have to do while sitting down at the table. The fact is that it is customary here to eat sitting on a mat on the floor, and if not on the floor, then on raised platforms that imitate the floor. If at the beginning of a feast it is usually not difficult to sit on the floor, then after a plentiful feast that lasts more than one hour, it will be possible to get up from the table only by holding onto a neighbor.

They present a ram's tail as a sign of respect.

It is customary to slaughter a ram for especially important events and holidays in Kyrgyzstan. At the same time, different parts of it will be intended for different guests around the table - depending on their position. The ram's head is most often served to the most honored guest, the tail to the honored guest, and the iliac (pelvic) bone to the elder. The lucky one who receives the head must cut out the ram's eyes and cut them in half, sharing the delicacy with another guest whom he would like to see more often. The palate is usually given to a young woman, while the left ear remains with the owner and the right ear is given to the children.

They can't get up without an omen from the table.

Omen before and after meals is no longer perceived in Kyrgyzstan as a religious rite, although it takes its roots in Islam. Bringing both palms to the face and saying "Omen", the Kyrgyz thus thank you at the table. Usually the omen is done together, including guests. At the end of any holiday, successful negotiations or simple eating, the eldest of those present or the guest of honor pronounces words of thanks and gives a small parting word, and then all those present at the same time perform the omen. It is not accepted to take food from the table after the Omen.

Marcel Zeynullin

Cap

Cap- this old Kyrgyz headdress is still very popular in the republic.

In the 19th century, the manufacture of caps was a woman's business, and they were sold by men. For the manufacture of the cap, the customer handed over a whole fleece of a young lamb and the fleece was taken as payment.

The caps were made of four wedges widening downward. Wedges were not sewn on the sides, which allows the fields to be raised or lowered, protecting the eyes from the bright sun. The top was decorated with a tassel.

Kyrgyz caps were varied in cut. The caps of the nobility were with a high crown, the margins of the cap were hemmed with black velvet. Poor Kirghiz wore their headdresses with satin, and children's caps were decorated with red velvet or red cloth.

A kind of cap - ah kolpay - had no split fields. The felt cap is also worn by other peoples of Central Asia. Its appearance in Central Asia dates back to the XIII century.

Malachai

Malachai- a special type of headgear, a distinctive feature of which is a long head-piece that descends on the back, connected to elongated earpieces. It was made from fox fur, less often from the fur of a young ram or deer, and the top was covered with fabric.

A wide caftan without a belt was also called Malachai.

Tebetey

Tebetey is a common winter headdress, an indispensable part of the male Kyrgyz national costume. It has a flat four-wedge crown and is sewn, as a rule, of velvet or cloth, trimmed most often with fox fur or marten, and in the Tien Shan regions - with black lamb fur. Kyzyl tebetey is a red hat. It was worn on the head during the erection of the khanate.

In the past, there was a custom: if a messenger was sent by an important chief, then his "calling card" was the messenger presented by the messenger of this chief.

"Throw her your chapan, I'll give you another, silk one."

V.Yan. Genghis Khan.

Chapan

Chapan - men's and women's long robe-type clothing. It was considered indecent to leave the house without chapan. Chapan is sewn on cotton wool or camel wool with a chintz lining. In the old days, the lining was made from a mat - a cheap white or printed cotton fabric. From above, the chapan was covered with velvet, cloth, velveteen. Currently, only the elderly wear chapans.

There are several variants of this garment, caused by ethnic differences: nigut chapan - a wide tunic-like robe, sleeves with a gusset, sewn at right angles; kaptama chapan - loose cut, sewn-in sleeves with a rounded armhole and straight narrow chapan with side slits. The hem and sleeves are usually trimmed with cord.

Kementai

Kementai is a wide felt robe. This clothing is mainly for pastoralists: it protects from the cold and rain. In the past, richly decorated white Kementai was worn by wealthy Kyrgyz.

Elechek

Elechek is a female headdress in the form of a turban. In full form, it consists of three parts: a cap with a brace was put on the head, on top of it was a small rectangular piece of fabric that covered the neck and was sewn under the chin; on top of everything - a turban of white matter.

In different tribal groups of Kyrgyzstan, the female turban had various forms - from simple wrapping to complex structures slightly reminiscent of the Russian horned kika.

In Kyrgyzstan, the turban has become widespread.

She was called a cripple, but among the southern and northern Kyrgyz - elechek. The same name was used by some groups of Kazakhs. For the first time, elechek was worn young, sending her to her husband's house, thereby emphasizing her transition to another age group. The wedding wish to the young woman said: "Let your white elechek not fall off your head." It was a wish for long family happiness.

Elechek was worn in winter and summer, without it it was not customary to leave the yurt even to fetch water.

Kalpak is an ancient Kyrgyz felt headdress. Many historical sources tell about "kalpak" as the main distinguishing feature of the appearance of the Kirghiz. "The dynastic chronicle" Tang Shu "in the story of the ancient Kyrgyz reports that their leader" wears a sable hat in winter, and a cap with a gold rim, with a conical top and a curved bottom in summer. Others wear white hats. " The kalpak is made of felt, which makes it possible to wear it both in warm and very cool weather, protecting the head from temperature drops, the caps are varied: a cap with decor, a cap with a cut, a cap without a cut, a cap with a high crown. All caps are characterized by a high top, the edges of which turn upwards, and are decorated with embroidery in black and red velvet fabric. Types of Kyrgyz "kalpak": "Airy kalpak", "Tilik kalpak", "Tuyuk kalpak", etc. Kalpaks were sewn from four wedges widening downward. Wedges were not sewn on the sides, which allows the fields to be raised or lowered, protecting the eyes from the bright sun. The top was decorated with a tassel. Kyrgyz caps were varied in cut. The caps of the nobility were with a high crown, the margins of the cap were hemmed with black velvet. Poor Kirghiz wore their headdresses with satin, and children's caps were decorated with red velvet or red cloth. The felt cap is also worn by other peoples of Central Asia. Its appearance in Central Asia dates back to the XIII century.

Malakhai is a special type of headgear, a distinctive feature is a long head-piece that goes down the back, connected to elongated earpieces. Malakhai-fur hat without lapels. It was made from fox fur, less often from the fur of a young ram or deer, and the top was covered with fabric.

Tebetey is a common winter headdress, an indispensable part of the male Kyrgyz national costume. The edges of the cap are completely covered with animal fur, only the crown remains. It has a flat four-wedge crown and is sewn, as a rule, of velvet or cloth, trimmed most often with fox fur or marten, otter.

Chapan - men's and women's long robe-type clothing. It was considered indecent to leave the house without chapan. Chapan is sewn on cotton wool or camel wool with a chintz lining. In the old days, the lining was made from a mat - a cheap white or printed cotton fabric. From above, the chapan was covered with velvet, cloth, velveteen. Currently, only the elderly wear chapans. There are several variants of this garment, caused by ethnic differences: nigut chapan - a wide tunic-like robe, sleeves with a gusset, sewn at right angles; kaptama chapan - loose cut, sewn-in sleeves with a rounded armhole and straight narrow chapan with side slits. The hem and sleeves are usually trimmed with cord.

The Kirghiz wore "Chepken" made of felted cloth over the rest of their clothes. In cold and bad weather, this "Chepken" was irreplaceable - it did not get wet, was not blown by the wind, equally well protected from the cold and sunlight. It is very durable and has served as a daily workwear for 5-6 years. The camel-wool robe was not a work gown, but rather a day off, a dandy attire; it was very expensive and was available only to the rich Kyrgyz. The very wealthy Kyrgyz also wore trousers made of this fabric.

Kementai - Kementai ”- an open felt robe, which was girded with a leather belt or a sash, this clothing is an indispensable attribute of pastoralists, perfectly protecting from rain and wind. In the past, richly decorated white Kementai was worn by wealthy Kyrgyz. "Kementai" - a swinging felt robe, which was girded with a leather belt or a sash, this clothing is an indispensable attribute of cattle breeders, perfectly protecting from rain and wind. White - especially valuable, felt robes, could only be afforded by very wealthy peasants.

"Dzhargakshym" - wide leather or suede pants, the main decoration of which was silk embroidery.

"Ichik" - a winter type of clothing, a fur coat covered with a dark fabric and a shawl with fur collars. Length below the knees, sleeves are also long, thick fabric is used. Fur coats made of fur of wild animals - wolves, foxes, lynxes, etc. - were especially appreciated. Ichik was generally worn on special solemn occasions.

Tone is also the winter outerwear of men and women. It is made from pet skins using dense fabrics, collars are made lush.

Taar shym - men's underwear, casual trousers. They are specially made wide in order to freely saddle the horse and move. Sewed above the knees, knee-deep and below the knees.

Otuk - boots made of leather and felt. Men's footwear consisted of leather boots - "otuk", leather galoshes with heels - "capich" and soft inverted boots - "maasa". The old shoes were boots made of raw materials - "charyk", with soles, short toes and toes slightly bent towards the top. ".

The ensemble of men's outerwear was certainly completed with a belt - "kemer kur". It is made of leather and metal, most often of silver, richly decorated with a pattern, various images.

The traditional female national costume of the Kyrgyz people consists of the following main components: a “koynok” dress, a hip swing skirt - beldemchi, a headdress (several types).

Koinok-Kyrgyz dress in the form of a shirt. The cut of a woman's shirt-dress in the second half of the 19th century was basically the same throughout the territory of Kyrgyzstan. She was tunic-like, with sleeves straight or slightly tapering to the wrist. Sidewalls expanding to the bottom were sewn to the main panel. Triangular gussets were sewn under the sleeves. The dress was made long - to the ankles, the sleeves covered the hands. The main panel was ankle-length so that the seam connecting the waist to the sleeves was 6-10 cm below the shoulder line. In the event that outer clothing (robe, camisole, etc.) was not worn on the shirt-dress, it was girded with a wide belt. In the south (Alai Valley), a long piece of fabric or a scarf, wrapped several times below the waist, served as a belt. In the northern part of the country, the belt was a wide (more than 10 cm) strip of fabric with a thick lining and tied at the back at the waist.

The differences in the women's shirt of various regions of Kyrgyzstan were mainly in the shape of the collar and the methods of its decoration. Three versions of the Kyrgyz women's shirt of the second half of the 19th century were identified (all of them belonged to the type of tunic-like shirts): 1) a shirt with a horizontal-vertical collar section, without a collar with embroidery along the vertical collar section or with a special wide shirt-front onur; 2) a shirt with a triangular slit of the collar and trimmed with a narrow band of jackets; 3) a shirt with a standing collar. The embroidery was done either directly on the dress, or on a bib separately worn on the dress. The embroidery on the chest of the shirt and on the bib-shirt-front was called onur. The embroidery was done with the seam "ters kayik" (reverse seam), which was intended only for "onur" in these regions. The seam was very thin, dense, the embroidery was solid: each new stitch lay one thread (in the fabric) higher than the previous one. Onur was also embroidered with other stitches - shevege (tambour), koiterme, basma (satin stitch). The embroidery pattern was geometric. Onur was embroidered with snapper threads of different colors: red, chen, yellow, blue, green. For the first time, onur was worn on a bride on her wedding day. It was worn by young and middle-aged women.

The second version of the Kyrgyz women's shirt-dress - with a V-neck collar was worn by young and old women. By the name of the collar, the dress was called "Uzun Jaak". The folded fabric was cut along the fold and 20-25 cm vertically. Often, the upper edges of the vertical cut were folded over, giving the cut a triangular shape. A narrow band edged the triangular section of the collar and went down far below the waist. The fabric for dresses of this version was of different colors: for young people it was red, for older people it was dark or light colors.

At the end of the 19th - first quarter of the 20th century. a new type of dress appears - a cutout. Patterned shirts are presented in two options: 1 - dress cut off from the waist; 2 - dress with a yoke. At first, a dress cut off from the waist retained many features of a tunic-like garment: a skirts assembled in gathers were sewn to a tunic-like bodice. The collar was stand-up with a vertical slit in the front. Then completely cut dresses appeared - with a rounded armhole of the sleeve, a split beveled shoulder line, a sleeve cut out in the shape of an arm; turn-down collars also appeared.

Kep takiyya is a female headdress, on top of which an elechek or a female tebetey is worn. Decorated with embroidery and hanging jewelry. Performs the function of steadiness and protects from the cold. It is an additional decoration for other clothes.

Elechek is a female headdress for older women. Made from white fabric only. It can be rounded or square. A special feature is that the element includes a scarf that covers the neck. Elechek has several components: "bash kep", "sala koimo", "eek almay", "astynky, ustunku tartma", "tumarcha", "badal". “Elechek”, like “shokulo”, is decorated with the traditional decorative element “kyrgyk”, a strip of various widths encircling the headdress, on which embroidered patterns are applied and decorated with gold, silver and other stones. Depending on the decor, “kyrgak” is called differently - “kumush kyrgak”, “altyn kyrgak”, “” saima kyrgak ”,“ oimo kyrgak ”,“ zhibek kyrgak ”, etc. Silver or gold pendants are attached along its edges, which gives the elechek a solemn look. Elechek is only white, with the exception of mourning (mourning time covers it with a black scarf). There are regional differences in dressing elechek.

Shokulo is a female headdress. Considered wedding. It is a cone-shaped cap which is pointed upwards and a light, light-colored fabric is gathered at the top. During the wedding procession, the bride's face was covered with this cloth. Height is 22-30cm. In ancient times it was made of white felt and was bordered with otter, fox and other animal fur. Richly decorated with ornaments and embroidery. "Kyrgak" is the main decorative element of the shokulo.

Beldemchi - loincloth in the form of a swing skirt. These are the clothes of a married woman who usually wore them after the birth of their first child. In the conditions of a nomadic life, it was extremely necessary. Without restricting movement, she protected from the cold while riding a horse. Embroidered with colored silk with an "ilme" stitch. The patterns are very diverse, more often they consist of curls resembling ram's horns. Beldemchi was sewn from black and colored velvet - red, green, blue or bright striped or patterned fabrics. Elegant beldemchi were made of black shiny fabric (lamp) from Central Asian variegated silks or cloth (sometimes homespun) were decorated with embroidery. They were sometimes embroidered with a wide strip in the form of a border, but more often they were sewn in all the way, including the belt. Festive beeldemchi sewn from black velvet, usually embroidered with a chain stitch, multi-colored silk threads. A row of red and white small scallops was sewn between the belt and the panel of the skirt for decoration. At the hem and floors, smart bildemchis were trimmed with otter fur. Winter beldemchi for the wives of shepherds who roamed the pastures for most of the year were made of sheepskin wool. By its nature, general style, often a black background on which the embroidery was embroidered, its general color (the predominance of red with the addition of white, green, yellow, blue), in terms of the features of the ornament and composition, embroidery on beldemchi is close to the embroidery of wall carpets from ink.

Tebetey is a winter headdress for women and men. The edges of the tebethei are completely covered with animal fur, only the top of the head remains. It has a flat four-wedge crown and is sewn, as a rule, of velvet or cloth, trimmed most often with fox fur or marten, otter.

Chyptama is a traditional women's sleeveless vest, worn on top of a "koynok" (dress). In different regions it has different names - "chirmey", "opko tone", "opko kap", "karmooch". Most often it is sewn from velvet and decorated with embroidery.

All these basic elements of the set of the Kyrgyz national costume have not changed since ancient times. Only in the second half of the 19th century. wealthy cattle owners began to buy ready-made clothes and, thus, new elements borrowed from neighboring peoples began to enter the traditional costume of the Kyrgyz.

Today the Kyrgyz folk costume does not lose its relevance, and modern fashion designers interpret it in a new way in their creative works, which contributed to the emergence of the "ethno style" so popular in recent years.

Kyrgyz culture costume traditional

Elechek (kimishek, bas orau) is the headdress of married women among some Turkic peoples (the Kyrgyz, Kazaki, Karakalpaks, Nogai are peoples very close to each other in language and genealogy-sanzhyre). Today, when there is a revival of our own cultural values, it is very important not to lock ourselves in our national apartments and look for differences between closely related peoples. It is much more important to find common and restore the rich heritage of our own common ancestors without any disputes about what is, for example, Kyrgyz or Kazakh, and who got it in the beginning. How can you divide something into your own and someone else's, if we come from the same ancestors? Therefore, here are presented all types of elecheks that the Kyrgyz could have or will have, since other fraternal peoples have and have them. In parallel, I will try to give explanations for certain details of the elechek, of course, in my own interpretation, and the correctness of the conclusions at the choice of the reader - I just express my opinion.

As a matter of fact, elechek is a turban, which is very common among many peoples, orientalized (the image of the East in the eyes of the West), the image of which is associated with the image of luxury and palace-harem sexuality. However, among the Turkic peoples, the elechek turban, on the contrary, is associated with the image of the purity of female and maternal decency. Already in ancient times in Central Asia, the turban was symbolically associated more with the feminine principle and the feminine cycle, often conditionally tied to the lunar one, which reflected the ability to bear children.

Reconstruction of a woman's headdress based on a wall painting in Penjikent (7th century) depicting the moon goddess

What exactly is considered an elechek and how does it differ from a turban? Elechek should consist of at least two (three) parts, (1) a turban (actually elechek), (2) a ponytail from a turban covering the braids and (3) fabric covering the cheeks and neck). Sometimes, to preserve the shape of the elechek, it is wrapped around a skullcap.

Elechek protected married women not only from the evil eye, but also from the sun's rays. It is not for nothing that the poetic epithets of young daughters-in-law and wives (kelin-zheӊe) became "white cheeks" and / or "white neck", since, unlike a girl's hat, elechek protected a woman's skin from sunburn. Optionally, elechek could be made of white material, for example, among the Karakalpaks, young wives wore kimishek made of red material, and older ones wore white ones.

Red and white karakalpak kimishek

The word kimishek (among the Kazakhs and Karakalpaks), perhaps, is an abbreviation for "kiyim elechek" - at least that's what the Kyrgyz called the elechek of the Kazakh women. Another female headdress of the Karakalpaks gives a possible explanation for one of the details of the elechek. Among the Karakalpaks, women wear “popek” on a skullcap - an additional decoration in the form of a wrist ball or brush - and unmarried girls and girls wear a “popek” on the left side, and married girls - on the right side of the skullcap.

Popek on skullcaps of Karakalpak women

This suggests that the popek showed a woman's belonging to one side or the other - remember that the yurt is divided into female and male halves and the Turkic el in ancient times was also divided into Kagan (conditionally male) and Katun (conditionally female) wings. Popek on one side or another of the skullcap also symbolized the woman's belonging to herself (to the left side, which you can still walk to) or belonging to a man. In the same way, part of the elechek's material was bent in one direction or another, which additionally (in addition to the elechek itself) symbolized the fact that the woman already belongs to this or that man, however, like him to her.

Elechek, wrapped to the right (Kazakh and Karakalpaks)

And here a little explanation is needed why some elements are wrapped to the left and others to the right. Perhaps this is due to the fact that in ancient times among the Türks the (conditionally) male dominant wing was considered the left wing, but later (perhaps in the post-Mongol period) the right wing became the main (conditionally), therefore, in the symbolic designation, belonging to the male was a little confused. Or perhaps it was just that women of one clan-tribe turned elechek in one direction only because women of another clan-tribe turned it in the opposite direction (here it is appropriate to add a phrase used by Muslim historians: "Allah knows best" women's clothing).

Elechek, wrapped to the left (Kyrgyz, Kazakhi)

The variety of elecheks varies not only from belonging to one or another clan-tribe, but also from the status of a woman in the family. So, for example, widows wore black elechek, and women of higher status wore large elechek or taller, or taller, and larger. For example, in this photo of the bow of the newly-made Kazakh groom to the mother and the bride's relatives, it is immediately clear to whom the bow is addressed in the first place, which, by the way, today the Kazakh horsemen refuse to do, unlike, for example, the Kyrgyz groom.

Meanwhile, the number of varieties of the Kazakh kimishek is worthy of worship.

Some varieties of Kazakh kimishek

However, like any other Turkic people, whose married women wear elechek. Some elecheks were with a ledge forward, which is very similar to copying the Saka kalpak.

Kazaki (Syrdarya)

Among other things, it is possible that two tails may be present in elechekas, since a married woman braided two braids (we use one wide one), as we see on these Polovtsian statues.

However, the question arises, how did women work in such large headdresses? Again, most likely, the amount of elechek material and, accordingly, its weight and comfort for work depended on the status and age of the woman in the family. In addition, women could work not only in small elechekas, but also in headscarves, as, for example, these two Kazakh young women, who had to work for five.

The dependence of the size of the turban on the position of the woman as a whole can be traced in the turbans of other ethnic groups, whose status was unequal to that of the ruling Turkic-Muslim elite. For example, the turbans and kimisheks of the Gypsies, Chala-Kazakhs and Jews were much smaller in size and weight, as was the weight of these groups in the then society.

Gypsy, Chala-Kazakh, Jewish

Therefore, perhaps, one should take into account the dependence of the size of the elechek on the status of a woman in the clan and her age. A lightweight version of the elechek is very possible, which, apparently, existed. This miniature from Shah-name, written in the 16th century for the Turkish sultan and kept in Topkapi in Istanbul, shows women with small turbans (judging by the circles on the headdress, the cloth is wrapped several times around the head, like elechek) and knit braids.

Afghan Kyrgyz women use a lighter version of elechek, which is very convenient for everyday life.

Most likely, we are accustomed to large elechekas due to the fact that at the beginning of the 20th century, when photographs of Kyrgyz women were taken in elechekas or their own memories, and they were worn mainly by older women, who were supposed to wear more material on their heads due to their status. ... Today, when the convenience of everyday wear is decisive for the choice of women, it is quite possible to recommend wearing for the occasion of elecheki and smaller sizes. The revival of national and cultural values ​​can proceed not only according to the preserved ethnographic history of the late 19th-early 20th centuries, it is possible to go much further and diversify the wardrobe of our women, which they themselves will be glad to see.

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Kalpak is the Kyrgyz national headdress, which does not lose its popularity at the present time. It can be called a visiting card of Kyrgyzstan. The parade uniform of Kyrgyz athletes at international competitions necessarily includes a white kalpak. In 2011, the country established Kalpak Day, which is now celebrated annually on March 5th. From ancient times there was a special attitude to this headdress: your kalpak must not be redrawn, it must always be clean, it must not be thrown, it must be removed only with two hands, put on a special place or next to oneself. And the one who has lost the kalpak is in for trouble.

Kalpak is a Kyrgyz national hat, which is still quite popular. It might be called the hallmark of the Kyrgyzstan. Uniform of Kyrgyz athletes in international competitions includes white kalpak as essential element. In 2011 Kalpak's Day was established in the country and celebrated annually on March 5. From ancient times there was a special attitude toward this headdress: kalpak cannot be regiven, it should always be clean, it cannot be thrown, it should be taken off only with two hands and put on a special place. There is a legend everyone who lost kalpak is expected to get in trouble.

However, to find real kalpak made from felt in the Kyrgyzstan today is very difficult but kalpaks made from Chinese synthetics are sold at every step. As it turned out, it is unprofitable for people or they are too lazy to work for the production of quality headdress. To receive good felt people have to grow certain breeds of sheep, shear the wool, process into felt and sew kalpak. It is much faster and cheaper to buy Chinese synthetic felt and sew hundreds of cheap kalpaks. Moreover, the population tends to not only wear the forgery, but also gives it as a present to foreigners or during visits to other countries.

True, in order to find a real kalpak in Kyrgyzstan today - made of natural felt - you will have to go around many shops and stores, but kalpaks made of Chinese synthetics are sold at every step. As it turned out, people are unprofitable or too lazy to work for the production of high-quality headwear. It is much faster and much more profitable to buy Chinese synthetic felt and sew hundreds of cheap caps. Moreover, the population not only carries a fake, but also presents it to foreigners or during visits to other countries.

Once, together with an Italian journalist, we walked through the colorful bazaar of the city of Osh.

- What souvenir should I buy in Kyrgyzstan? My companion asked unexpectedly.

- Buy yourself a kalpak - a Kyrgyz man's headdress, - I answered without hesitation. And we went to the souvenir rows.

Here I was in for a big disappointment: we walked around the shop after the shop and could not find a real felt kalpak. ("Kalpak" is the Turkic spelling of the name of the national headdress, shaped like a cap)... Everywhere they sold his fake made of Chinese synthetics for 150 soms (a little more than $ 2). Finally, in the last row, we found two shops with real kalpaks - 1200-1600 soms (about $ 17-22).

- Why so expensive? - I asked the seller.

“There is no felt in the country,” I heard in response.

- How is there no felt? Are the sheep extinct? - I did not calm down. The seller just smiled. He sold us a real Kyrgyz kalpak, not yielding even 50 soms. And I decided to learn not only about the history of this headdress, but also about its modern production.

The features of the Kyrgyz national game kok-boru (goat-picking) are available at this link.

Kalpak - a symbol of mountains

Ak-kalpak is a headdress made of white felt with black velvet cuffs. In folklore, its shape is associated with a snowy peak. The word "ak", which translates as "white", is used by the Kyrgyz in several senses, except for the designation of color: pure, honest, sacred. In relation to kalpak, most likely, two meanings are used - white and sacred.

Since ancient times, there was a special attitude to this headdress: your kalpak cannot be redrawn - only passed on from generation to generation, it must always be clean, it must not be thrown, twisted, removed only with two hands, put on a special place or next to you. And the one who has lost the kalpak is in for trouble.

Perhaps the prefix "ak" is also used for self-identification of the Kirghiz, because the people have many clans and tribes, and the name "white-kalpak Kyrgyz" is like one for all hats "). The largest national epic "Manas" says that "the Kirghiz are a people wearing a white kalpak, the top of which is white, like the peaks of the Tien Shan mountains, and the base is dark, like their foothills."

Kalpak is sewn from four wedges widening downward. The patterns are traditionally embroidered with silk threads, the margins are most often wrapped in black velvet, the top is decorated with a tassel that hangs down in front.

Kalpak has many varieties, earlier it was possible to learn a lot about a person by the height and design of the headdress. For example, representatives of the nobility or artists wore kalpaks higher than those worn by ordinary people. Kalpaks "on the way out" were made of expensive thin felt and good velvet and were decorated with special patterns. White designs were embroidered on the groom's wedding kalpak.

This is a versatile headgear, in which it is not hot in summer and warm in winter, it is made with slits in the front or on the sides. On rainy days, you can lower the back to keep rain out of the collar, and in hot weather, the front to create a sun shade.

They are very proud of Kalpak in Kyrgyzstan. In the form of this headdress, bus stops are made, kalpaks are worn by the country's Olympic team, in 2008 a postage stamp with his image was issued - in denomination of 6 soms, and in 2011 the Kalpak Day was established.

Kyrgyz postage stamp depicting ak-kalpak

Sewn kalpak, but not in kalpak style

The fact that kalpak still remains an integral attribute of men's clothing in Kyrgyzstan is evidenced by the huge number of people wearing it. But more and more often the preference is given to "Chinese" kalpak, the quality of which is noticeably different from the real one. I specifically looked through dozens of photographs taken by the media during various events: participants in the Kalpak Day festivities, the Olympic team, even some deputies wearing Chinese synthetics.

The Kyrgyz Olympic team also wears synthetic kalpaks (c) Sputnik.kg

What happened to this popular cultural attribute, why is it being replaced by a cheaper synthetic analogue? It's simple: it is unprofitable or too lazy to produce a high-quality headdress. To get a good felt, it is necessary to grow certain sheep breeds, shear wool from them, process it into felt and sew kalpaks. It is much faster and much more profitable to buy Chinese synthetic felt and sew hundreds of cheap kalpaks. Moreover, the population not only carries a fake, but also gives it to foreigners.

Follow these links to read about various dishes of the countries of the region from the heading Central Asian cuisine: Osh tandoor samsa, Karakol ashlyamfu, tandoor flatbread, beshbarmak, Tajik kurutob, kurut - Kyrgyz dry cheese, national drink kumis.

The population of Kyrgyzstan wears "China"

... Back in Bishkek, I called the national association of folk arts and crafts "Kyyal", about which one of the resolutions of the Kyrgyz parliament says that "this is the only enterprise engaged in the production and popularization of Kyrgyz folk applied art." “Real kalpaks must be sewn there,” - in this confidence I took up the phone. They threw me from one number to another, "drove" me to the shops: "We have not sewed kalpaks for a long time", "Call another shop, they definitely sew there." And so over and over again, until I realized that “Kyyala” does not produce kalpaks. Having asked my acquaintances, I received the number of the woman who deals with these headdresses - the head of the Public Fund "Min kyyal" Ayday Asangulova... She made an appointment for me just in "Kyyala", which, as it turned out, had long been divided into small premises for rent.

Kalpaks, which were sewn at the Kyyal enterprise, 1976

I arrived early in order to have time to walk through the souvenir rows of the Osh market in Bishkek before the meeting. The same picture as in the bazaar in Osh - kalpaks, rugs and other products made of Chinese synthetics. I also saw a few things made of natural felt. "Chinese" kalpak can be bought for 150 soms (a little over $ 2), the price of felt starts at 700 soms ($ 10). Traders replied that the population most often buys synthetic kalpaks. “Especially a lot of them are taken as a gift to foreigners, because they don’t know the difference,” one saleswoman said frankly.

Following these links, you can read materials about the Soviet legacy of Kyrgyzstan Part I - about Osh and Part II - about 10 signs of the New Year in the USSR, Part III - about the capital's telegraph, its bomb shelter and chimes, Part IV - about the Bishkek Lenin Museum.

Synthetic kalpaks at the Osh market of Bishkek

New concept

It's time for an interview, we got a job in a small workshop, where the client, manaschi (narrator of the Kyrgyz epic about the hero Manas) from Talas, ordered an individual kalpak, and two girls made orders.

Real felt kalpaks

“About ten years ago, the Kyrgyz market faced problems with felt kalpaks, and the bazaars were filled with synthetic products,” Aidai Asangulova began her story. - Earlier, the Kyrgyz kalpak was made by hand, during the Soviet era it began to be produced in large quantities and according to a single standard at the Kyyal enterprise. Kalpak has always been carefully kept and passed on from generation to generation.

It seems that people know about kalpak and respect it, but suddenly they switched to a synthetic fake, which they began to give to everyone in a row, and this national headdress began to lose its value.

I spent my childhood with my grandmother. Everything that was connected with the head, including hats, she considered very valuable. And in Kyrgyz folklore it is said that you cannot give, throw, twist, or leave your headdress on the floor. The bride's side never gives the groom a kalpak for the wedding: they say, we give the whole bride away, and it’s not supposed to give the “head”.

White kalpaks, 1980s

Kalpak is an important part of the national heritage, and I decided to study its history. We wrote a project, received a grant and began to travel around the regions, meet with ethnographers and artists, collect photographs from the State Archives, and watch old films. Bearers of traditional knowledge, old-timers of villages, told us a lot of interesting things about the Kyrgyz national dress. Unfortunately, every day there are fewer and fewer of them, and our culture is leaving with them.

So, before the Kyrgyz never celebrated their birthday every year, they celebrated the 12-year cycle of life - much a l. In 2011, we proposed a modern concept of kalpak, based on the knowledge of old people - hats symbolizing every 12 years of a person's life with a border of a certain color and a special pattern.

For the 12th birthday of the child, we offer a kalpak with a green border - the color of young grass - and a pattern in the shape of a ram's horns, which symbolizes the beginning of the transformation of a boy into a man. On the 24th anniversary - a kalpak with a blue border and a tunduka pattern (the upper base of the yurt), which means that the man begins to think about creating his hearth. At 36 years old - brown: a patriotic man and thinks about his land. A golden eagle is embroidered on the kalpak, which means that a person looks at everything from above - from a height of years. The kalpak border for a 48-year-old man is beige, embroidered with a leopard: the man is already smart and can give advice to the younger generation. The color of the border of the kalpak for 60-year-olds is black and white. Such hats were worn by aksakals, who could already distinguish black from white, that is, bad from good. As a pattern, we decided to use the image of a deer with branched antlers, which means branching of the genus, offspring.

Modern concept of Kalpaks

In 2011, we wrote a book about kalpak and, together with the Historical Museum, organized an exhibition at which we presented more than 100 headdresses - not only kalpaks of a new concept, but also kalpaks from the funds of the museum, Kyrgyzfilm, the Kyyal enterprise and even those made for the Olympics. 80 ". Some old kalpaks were lent to us by people, others we received in exchange for new hats during our field research. "

Varieties of Kalpaks, 1080s

The main problem is the lack of felt

In the workshop of the Kyyal enterprise, where I was interviewing, the director of the Kyrgyz Kalpagy muundan-muunga association (Kyrgyz Kalpak from generation to generation) sews kalpaks together with two girls. Clara Asangulova... She said that earlier, when these hats were made by hand, each stitch on them meant something: protection from the evil eye or illness. Now people are asking to make kalpaks with an individual pattern, some with the label of their company and a certain height. It is often asked not to be too tall so that one can get into the car in a kalpak.

“So far, I have four sales points for kalpaks in Bishkek and two more in Osh. The clientele is growing: people are beginning to understand what a good kalpak is. But there is a problem of a shortage of good felt. After the collapse of the USSR, sheep with a half-thin wool disappeared, the very one from which good felt is obtained. We tried to make felt ourselves, but its quantity was only enough for ten kalpaks, but for a hundred pieces it must be harvested on an industrial scale. Now we buy felt from private entrepreneurs, who bought machines from industrial plants in the 1990s. There is not enough felt, and you have to stand in line for weeks, ”complained Klara Asangulova. - Of course, the kalpak should be revived, but this should be done at the state level, starting from the breeding of the desired breed of sheep and ending with the creation of a plant for the manufacture of felt and sewing kalpaks. Then the country will be able to massively replace synthetics with a traditional headdress ”.

Kalpaki from the archive of the Kyrgyzfilm film studio