How to make a surge protector (extension cord) with your own hands. Electrical extension cord. Types and application. How to choose How to make an extension cord from a three-core cable

I welcome you dear readers to my site. And today we will talk about how to make an electric carrying with a switch with your own hands.

Agree with me that at home it is very difficult to do without an extension cord. I use this miracle of technology every day. My computer and all the other accessories for it are included in the carrying with a block of four sockets. On the other hand, I think it's the same for a lot of people. It is unlikely that anyone at home has a place where there are three or four outlets at once.

And if there is also a repair in the house, then you can’t do without an extension cord. Since you will need to connect a power tool anyway. And if several people do the repair, then carrying with one outlet will not be enough for them. You need to make an extension cord with several outlets at once. Because if people take turns working, it will take too long.

Of course, you can go the simpler way, just go to any hardware store or market and buy several carriers at once. By the way, carriers in the form of a coil of wire wound on a reel have recently appeared on the market.

But such coils are not always convenient to carry with you, and besides, if you need to turn on something powerful, such as welding, then all this wire must be completely unwound from the coil.

Now imagine if you have 50 meters in the bay and all this wire is laid out around the house or apartment, or even worse, in one room. It will simply be difficult for you to move around without getting entangled in these networks.

Therefore, I suggest that you make the transfer with your own hands using improvised means. At a price it will be much cheaper than a store one, and in terms of reliability it will be no worse, and it is quite possible that even better.

Accessories for assembling an electric carrier.

In order to assemble a good and reliable carrier, you first need to decide which devices you will include in it, and calculate the total power.

But if there are no serious loads, then you can assemble the carrier using the simplest components.

Let's start with wire selection. If the total load of all devices does not exceed 2 kW, then a wire with a cross section of 1 mm 2 can be used for carrying. And the socket and plug must withstand a current of 10 A.

Usually, the manufacturer writes on the case of their products what voltage and what current they are designed for, so I advise you to pay attention to this when buying.

If the load is about 3 kW, then you need to take a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2. And the socket and plug must withstand a load of 16 A.

If the load is within 5 kW, then the wire must have a cross section of at least 2.5 mm 2. But the current at such a load will be about 23 A. So you need to buy a plug and socket of the appropriate type.

Now, as for the brand of wire. The fact is that carriers very often have to be twisted and untwisted, so I advise you to take the wire only.

The wire of this brand has a stranded core and good insulation, which makes it flexible and it will last a long time. And wires with a monolithic core for carrying will not work.

List of materials in order to make the transfer yourself:

Collapsible electrical plug (designed for the power you need);
Socket or block of sockets (several sockets);
Wire of the required length and appropriate section;
NSHVI lugs for crimping stranded wires (although if you carry out small loads, you can do without lugs).

Required tool:

screwdriver;
pliers;
press tongs;
a knife or a special device for stripping insulation from the cores.

Now let's look at a real example of a carry assembly.

Suppose you need to make a transfer, which will include a heater with a power of 1.5 kW, sometimes a drill with a power of 0.85 kW or some other trifle will be turned on: a phone charger, a portable lamp, a soldering iron, and maybe something else. If we calculate the total power of all these devices, then it will turn out to be no more than 3 kW. Based on this, it will take a PVA wire 3 * 1.5 mm 2, it will be enough. There will even be a power reserve.

I will make a small digression and explain a little what these numbers mean - 3 * 1.5 mm 2.

3 - the first digit always indicates the number of cores in the wire. It is advisable to take a three-wire wire for carrying, since in addition to the phase and zero, we will also have grounding.

1.5 mm 2 is the cross section of one core. It happens that in a wire or cable, several cores have one section, and one or more cores have a different section.

We return to our assembly. In the store we buy a socket or block of sockets with a grounding contact. If we have a load of 3 kW, then our current will be approximately 13.6 A. Therefore, we buy sockets withstanding 16 A. We also take a plug for 16 A, and it is imperative that it has a ground contact.

Let's start assembling the carrier.

We have all the necessary materials and means. First you need to disassemble the fork. Most plugs have a screw type contact connection. If you take and simply clamp a stripped stranded core with a screw, then a significant part of the wires will be damaged.

As a result, the area of the contact connection may decrease, which can subsequently lead to heating and various breakdowns. Starting from the banal burnout of the wire, and ending with the complete failure of the plug.

Therefore, we will use special tips for crimping NShVI.

First you need to strip the wire. Carefully remove the top insulation, and then strip the wires to the length required for crimping with tips. For stripping, it is best to use a special knife.

But if you don’t have one, then you can use any knife. By the way, I would not recommend stripping the veins with a clerical knife, as it cuts the wires. But for removing the top insulation, it is very well suited.

Now we crimp the cores, and you can start assembling the plug. Usually all plugs are equipped with a special clamp for fixing the wire. We clamp the outer insulation of the wire with a clamp and connect the wires to the plug contacts.

Attention. I want to explain to you why it is necessary to fix the wire with a clamp. The fact is that many people, when turning off carrying or other electrical appliances, do not pull on the plug, but on the cable. And thus the contact connection of the core with the contact of the plug can be damaged. Or the wire may be pulled out altogether.

Now we connect the wire to the outlet or to the socket block. To do this, we disassemble it. The ground wire, just as in the case of the plug, is crimped into the NCI tip. If this is not the case, then simply twist the core into a ring and connect it to the ground contact. The remaining two wires are connected to the corresponding terminals.

Now, in order to close the cover of the socket block, we need to make a special recess for the wire. Carefully cut it out, then lay the wire, close the lid and screw it on.

For a better understanding, watch the video.

And in this video, a person makes a transfer without explanation.

In principle, everything, the carrying is ready and it can be operated. But you and I can improve it and insert a button into it.

How to make an electric carrier with a switch.

I have had such cases that I included something in the carrier, but this device or tool does not work. And then I start looking for what is the reason - in a power tool or in a carrying case. But if a backlit button is installed on the socket block, then it becomes visually visible whether there is voltage in the carrying. And the search circle is significantly reduced.

So let's install a backlit button in our carrier. Of course, you can go the easier way and buy a ready-made socket block in the store already with a button. But for us, the installation process itself is important, so we will install the button ourselves.

In the hardware store we buy a KCD3 backlit button. When buying, pay attention to the technical specifications. It is necessary that the button be designed for a voltage of at least 220 V, usually 250 V, current 16 A are written on them, and the degree of protection must be no less than IP - 55.

There will be three contacts on the button. Two are needed for connecting (switching) power, and the third for backlighting.

To install the button in our socket block, we need to cut a corresponding hole for it. To do this, you can use a drill and a small file (needle file). We drill several holes, and then with a file we adjust to the desired dimensions. The main thing is not to overdo it so that the button does not hang out in the case.

The button should be marked where the input and output are, and where the contact for the backlight is.

Now we connect the button as follows: connect the wire from the contact terminal of the socket to the backlight contact. If you have PVS, then you need to connect the blue core. Now, so to speak, we connect the phase conductor to the “input”, and connect the wire from the “output” to the second contact terminal of the socket.

The third wire, as you remember, sits on our ground. We close the cover of the socket block and you can check.

If you turn on the button, it should light up, and thus it will signal that there is voltage in the outlet. When turned off, the backlight will turn off, and, accordingly, the sockets will not work.

Attention. With such a button connection scheme, the circuit breaks on only one wire, that is, the phase in the sockets may be present. If you need to completely remove the voltage from the outlet, then in this case you need to install two buttons. Or if you buy a block of sockets with a button already mounted, then there should also be two of them.

As a reinforcement of knowledge, I advise you to watch the video clip.

Good video how to make a carry with a switch

How to fix an extension cord at home

That's all for me. I hope the article was useful to you. Click on the buttons of social networks, and subscribe to updates. Ask your questions in the comments. Bye.

Sincerely, Alexander!

The length of the cable is selected at your discretion. The ends of the cable wires (without insulation) are etched with soldering acid or alcohol-rosin flux, then a small layer of solder tin is applied to the bare ends of the wires. The extension contacts are also etched and soldered to the ends of the cable wires (in the absence of a bolted connection).

The block on the extension cord is selected by you in the same way, depending on the number of connected household appliances.

Extension assembly

I think that for these photographs, no explanation is required for assembling the extension cord. The only thing before connecting each wire is to ring the wires in order to avoid mistakes when making contact connections.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Electric plug - with grounding

If your apartment has a ground bus connected to a ground loop, then the cable is selected for three wires: phase, zero, ground. The plug is selected taking into account the expected load, usually these plugs go to 10 amps - for domestic needs.

The range of choice of such plugs is large and upon purchase, you can consult with the sales assistant, explaining at the same time what kind of load you will be connected to the extension cord. Before connecting the wires to the plug, it is advisable to solder the bare ends of the wires with tin. The application of a small layer of tin to the bare ends of the cable wires is carried out for a reliable contact connection in order to equalize the resistance at the contact transitions.

That's all for now. Follow the rubric.

Preparing to assemble the extension

Before making an extension cord, you first need to decide on its purpose. This will determine the possibility of connecting certain devices, as well as the maximum allowable power. These factors have a direct impact on the choice of cable cross-section and other components. All parameters are recommended to be selected with a small margin, so that in the future it will be possible to connect more powerful electrical equipment.

First of all, you need to buy a wire that will be used as a cord. The most optimal option is considered to be a copper wire of the PVS brand, which is characterized by increased flexibility. If there is a grounding contact in the socket, the wire must be three-core, and if it is not available, a cable with two cores can be used. At the time of purchase, you should carefully study the labeling of the product.

If the brand "PVA 3 x 1.5" is indicated, this means that the wire is three-core, and the cross section of the core is 1.5 mm. These parameters allow you to connect a load with a power of up to 3.5 kW. For a power of 5 kW, a cross section of 2.5 mm is required. The data for calculations can be taken in a special table, which will greatly speed up the solution of the question of how to make an extension cord with your own hands.

When choosing a cross section, it is necessary to take into account the factor of the length of the conductor. For example, if the cable length is more than 100 meters, then during operation, a voltage drop is possible due to the connection of high power devices. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a cable with a larger cross section than is provided for in the calculation table.

Then you need to choose the right electrical plug, which must be collapsible. It is not recommended to purchase products of the "euro" type, if you plan to use sockets of the old design in advance. Otherwise, you will need an additional adapter. On the body of each plug there is a marking with the designation of the maximum current. For example, at 16A you will need a cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm, and for 25A the cross section will be 2.5 mm. If there is grounding, then the plug must have a grounding contact in the design.

The socket is not recommended to be selected in a single version. The socket block should be at least double, and best of all - with three or four elements. When choosing, you need to be very careful not to accidentally buy an overhead structure designed for use with open wiring. It does not have a special clamp that protects against accidental pulling out, and over time, the back cover of such sockets falls out. For extension cords, there are separate options in the form of socket strips or cable sockets. If you want to connect a computer or other office equipment, then in this case a surge protector is made, in which there is a push-button switch and light indication.

After all the materials are prepared, you can begin to assemble the extension cord. This procedure is carried out with a knife, screwdriver and pliers.

Do-it-yourself extension cord

Often, when choosing an extension cord, the question arises: which one is better, and whether it can withstand a large load, well, it seems to be of good quality, but a short cord. In order for the extension cord to be to your liking, in terms of quality, the number of places in the socket block and the length suits you, it is preferable to make it yourself. It is not difficult.

Before you start making an extension cord yourself, you need to purchase a cable, an electrical plug and an outlet block. As for the choice of cable: it is necessary to take into account the length and load for it.

Basically, those who make extension cords with their own hands use a cable for large loads from 3 to 5 kilowatts. The most optimal soft two-core cable made of a lot of wire copper is P V C, the cross section of which is 2-2.3 mm.

Let's turn to the instructions on how to make an extension cord yourself.

It is necessary to remove the top layer of cable insulation 5-7 centimeters, then strip the wires 1-1.5 centimeters.
Then we disassemble the plug by unscrewing the screw, loosen the fixing clamp in the plug with the screw.
We connect the wires to the plug contacts and clamp them with screws, fix the cable with a clamp and assemble the plug.
Let's disassemble the socket block and connect the wires to the contact plates, just like on the plug. Then we assemble the block.

It is not at all difficult to make an extension cord yourself, it will cost you many times cheaper than buying it in a store.

Accessories for assembling an electric carrier

To assemble a reliable carrier, you need to understand for what purposes it will be used, taking into account the possible future. For example, today I will need to connect a 0.5 kW power screwdriver to it, and tomorrow a 5 kW heat gun. It is clear that these two devices are incommensurable in terms of power and electric carrier must be ready to withstand such a load. But if you do not provide such a wide range of construction services, and you are sure that a simple power tool (drill, grinder, puncher) will be used in the work, then you can get by with the most common components.

First you need to decide on the expected operating power (preferably with some margin), since the characteristics of the wire, plug and electrical outlets used will directly depend on this.

If the total power of the connected devices is about 2 kW, then the minimum cross-section of the wire that will be used as an extension cord should be 1 mm2. In this case, the electrical plug and sockets must be designed for a working current of 10 A.

Now suppose that the total power of all devices connected to the power strip will be about 3 kW. In this case, it is necessary to use a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 (maximum load up to 4.6 kW), and the electrical plug and sockets must be rated for a current of 16A.

If the total load is up to 5 kW, then in this case you will need a wire with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2 (maximum load up to 5.9 kW). But keep in mind that with such a load, the operating current will be about 23 A and the plug and socket used must be appropriate (designed for such a current).

So to make your own electric carrier, you will need the following materials:

- wire of the appropriate section and length;
- NShVI tips for crimping stranded wire;
- collapsible electrical plug;
- the required number of sockets (or a block of sockets).

Of the tools you will need:

-pliers;
-screwdriver;
- press tongs;
- tools for stripping wires.

Oh yes, I forgot to mention what brand of wire you need to use for an electric extension cord. It is clear that the extension cord is subject to numerous kinks during operation. It is often dragged across a concrete floor, constantly twisted and untwisted during transport from one facility to another.

Therefore, a flexible wire that has good insulation with a stranded core is suitable here. These include PVS. PVA wires are characterized by good flexibility and high-quality insulation, which allows them to be twisted and untwisted in multiple order without damage. Wires with a solid core are not suitable for this purpose.

What size wire to choose for electrical carry assembly? If you estimate the power of the connected tool, then for work I will use a 1.7 kW hammer drill, sometimes along the way an electric drill of 1 kW, plus small things: a lamp, a soldering iron, a charger for a screwdriver. Total total load will not exceed 3 kW. Given this load, a PVA wire 3x1.5 mm2 is needed, this is quite enough for me. With the reserve on power that will allow to avoid overloads remains.

We will connect the extension cord to the network using an electrical plug. In the store, I purchased a collapsible euro plug with a grounding contact. It is better to choose a plug with grounding, which can also be useful when carrying. Therefore, the best solution in the manufacture of an extension cord is the use of a three-core wire, as well as plugs and sockets equipped with grounding contacts.

The socket, or rather the block of sockets with grounding, I left after the old objects. Such a unit can be purchased at any electrical supply store.

And with as many sockets as you need (for two, three or four sockets). Also, it is not necessary to buy a molded socket block. The carrier can be assembled and from single sockets of the closed type. Their number can also be any number.

Electrical checks

Initially, it is necessary to externally inspect all parts of the extension cord for their integrity.

I want to draw your attention to the fact that this is a mandatory process that completes any actions with electrical wiring that will be connected to voltage. This will save you from many mistakes and accidents.

The assembled electrical extension cord must be checked for:

correct connection of wires and absence of short circuits;
state of the dielectric insulation layer.

Evaluation of conductors

I took my tester and rang out the electrical circuits. This technology I have painted a separate article.

Therefore, I don’t disclose it in detail now, but I’ll only note that I didn’t make a short circuit, the wires are connected to the outlet and plug correctly.

Checking the dielectric layer of insulation

The main purpose of this operation is to identify possible paths of leakage currents through the broken insulation. This work is performed by a special device - a megohmmeter. As a rule, it is not in the arsenal of home master tools. You will have to contact the nearest electrical laboratory.

I have performed these operations at work. They include:

insulation control between current-carrying conductors;
assessment of the state of the dielectric layer of each wire.

Measurement of insulation between cores

A megohmmeter can be simplified as a simple ohmmeter that produces an increased high voltage of various values \u200b\u200band takes into account very small currents, converting them into units of resistance in ohms, kiloohms and megaohms.

I tested with a voltage of 500 volts and got the result in megaohms.

Analysis of the quality of the dielectric layer of wires

Both conductive wires are short-circuited, and the entire wire on the insulation side, except for the plug and socket, is placed in a vessel with water. One electrode is also lowered there to connect the end of the megohmmeter. If you use a metal container, you can create a contact directly on it.

The second end from the device is connected to conductive wires. Voltage is supplied from the megohmmeter and the value of the leakage current from the metal conductors to the water is controlled by the pointer. My isolation passed such a test successfully.

Work with a megaohmmeter is classified as dangerous. They are allowed to be performed by trained personnel with a safety group of at least III.

After completing the electrical checks, I boldly turned on the extension cord to power the electric trimmer.

If you are interested in how to make a 30 m coil extension cord, then watch the video of the owner "amateur TV"

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How to make an electric carrier with your own hands

The question of how to make an electric carrying with your own hands is solved quite simply - for a professional electrician, this, as they say, is a spit and takes about five to ten minutes, no more. In general, this process can be represented as the following sequence.

We prepare the wire. We clean it from both ends - first we remove the upper insulation and release the wire strands. A lot of insulation does not need to be removed - a maximum of 30-50mm. Then we clean each individual core - we expose the wires by about half a centimeter. We do this with each end of the electrical wire.
Preparing the wire for carrying the photo
Install the fork. To begin with, we disassemble it by unscrewing just one screw - after separating the parts, we put on one of the ends of the cable, first a rubber seal, and then the body of the plug itself. After that, we take the inside of this product and unscrew the wire retainer (in most cases, this is a plastic bracket screwed with two self-tapping screws). Then everything is simple - we connect the ends of the cable to the plug contacts, put the wire clamp in place, connect the inside of the plug to the body and tighten the screw back. It should be mentioned here that the connection of the wire to the plug contacts must be done thoroughly - the contact screw must be clamped strongly. It is also necessary to ensure that the two cores of the cable do not come into contact with each other.
How to Connect the Photo Transfer Cable
Installing an outlet. The principle is the same as when installing a plug on a wire. First, we disassemble the socket - removing the top cover from it, we get access to the inside, where the wires are connected. There you will find the terminals to which you will need to connect the wire. Depending on the model of the carrying receptacle you purchased, its terminals may differ slightly. There can be three options here: the most common of these is a screw with a square nut. Less used terminals are a metal cube with a threaded hole inside and a screw. There are also quick connection terminals - the wire is connected to them using a push lever. It must be held in order to secure the wire. Subsequently, it is released and the wire is automatically clamped. If you purchased a socket with just such terminals, then it is better to solder the ends of the wire, or at least equip them with crimp ends.

As for the cartridge for conventional or LED carrying, it is not much more difficult to install it on a wire than a plug or socket. The principle is the same - we disassemble the cartridge into two parts, pull out the middle, connect the ends of the wires to it and assemble everything in place. Here, almost everything is exactly the same as in the plug - before connecting the wires to the core, do not forget to put one of the halves of the cartridge body on the wire.

Carry lamp holder photo

As you can see, electric carrying is by no means a complicated product. In this way, you can make a carrier of any length you need - here I note that the wire is sold in coils that have windings from 100 to 250m. For long transfers, you will need to think over the winding system - you may additionally need to make a drum or some other device.

What are extension cords

We do not see anything complicated with our own hands to make an extension cord for headphones. Today, there are plenty of collapsible USB connectors on the market, we can get a four-core copper cord anywhere in the world (using Aliexpress). The power rails go sideways: you can see they are pushed forward to avoid loss of information when the contacts are opened. Data passes through two wires inside. It is better to take the cable without connections, in one piece, the attenuation of a weak signal will be minimal. We consider it an excellent option to get a shielded cable: it will certainly increase the communication range.

Will twisted pair work? Definitely suitable for USB. The frequencies will be somewhat different, imperceptibly at short distances. You can make a modem extension yourself if you have crimping pliers. The shown photos are taken in DNS, suitable for 8 and 6-position connectors (suitable for telephonists).

Finally, no problems with audio jack connectors. You must have noticed: mono sometimes comes out on the front panel of the system unit ... Bite your elbows? Just look inside, make the correct layout of the board by setting the necessary jumpers, pull the cable with the required number of cores to the motherboard. The whole secret: it's just that some manufacturers are too lazy to do it, pushing cheap stuff. We believe that now every reader has understood how to make a USB extension cable himself, the goal of the review has been achieved.

We say goodbye, we believe that the knowledge gained will be really useful in practice. When once again you need to make an extension cord with your own hands.

See also: Repair of LED lamps and chandeliers with your own hands

Making an extension cord yourself is considered the easiest job in the electrical field. Assembly will take just half an hour. And to prevent emergency situations, you can give a few recommendations for operation.

If Euro sockets are used, always keep an adapter with you. Many modify the plugs so that they fit into the plug. This is strictly prohibited.
When using an extension cord outside the home, purchase outlets that are waterproof. Try your best to avoid getting water inside.
Using a wire designed to work with low-voltage appliances, do not power an extension cord, sources of consumption with higher ratings.
When working at high loads, when several devices are connected to the extension cord, the wire must be completely unwound to prevent it from overheating and breaking.
Faults that appear during operation, protect with electrical tape, and carry out all work to restore the damaged wire only when disconnected from the network.

Use extension cord correctly. Despite the simple assembly and the absence of complex devices in the circuit, electric shock does not cause positive emotions, and in some cases, it can be fatal.

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So that during the operation of the dwelling there are no problems with the use and maintenance of the electrical network, you need to know what a phase is. zero and earth in the electrical wiring of the apartment.

Alexander, what exactly should I add to this article? I will try to accommodate your wishes!

Do-it-yourself extension cord manufacturing technology.

1. We fasten the jar with self-tapping screws, which we twist from the side where the wire will be wound! I attached at 6 points. Choose the length of the self-tapping screws exactly, i.e. so that the self-tapping screw cannot touch the socket!

Of course, I used such a mount as a temporary one, but there is nothing permanent than something temporary. The first extension was made in 2002, and the second in 2009.

So my advice to you! Do it all the time!

2. We drill a hole for the wire so that the drill gets inside the can (socket box).

We pass the wire.

Do not forget to put the cambric on the wire and move it to the place where the wire is supposed to come into contact with the edge of the can.

3. We connect the socket, fix it in a homemade socket box.

4.On the other hand

Warning!

From a safety point of view, such use of a metal can is life threatening!!!

Do-it-yourself extension cord.

Extension cords are widely used in both homes and offices. Stores offer a wide range of different extension cords from different manufacturers.

But quite often it is difficult to choose an extension cord of the required length, designed for the required power, and there is also a risk of buying low-quality products. The best solution is to make an extension cord with your own hands.

First you need to decide what the extension cord will be used for, what power devices you plan to connect through it, it is advisable to provide for a margin for the future. It is quite possible that over time it will become necessary to turn on devices of greater power, in which case the power reserve will avoid the troubles that may arise and eliminate the need to purchase a new extension cord.

In the article why an extension cord burns out, it is considered in detail what consequences the inclusion of a powerful load through an extension cord can lead to if it is not intended for this.

The extension cord consists of three main components:

socket block;

Cable, usually used brand PVA;

Electrical plug.

The socket block and plug are usually available for a maximum current of 10A (2.2 kW) or 16A (3.5 kW). Accordingly, if you plan to connect devices with a total power of about 2 kW, a plug and a 10A socket block are enough, the wire cross section must be at least 1.0 mm 2.

If devices with a power of more than 2 kW will be connected, it is necessary to purchase a plug and a 16A socket block, the wire cross section must be at least 1.5 mm 2.

In our example, we will assemble an extension cord for connecting appliances no more than 2 kW. Plug and socket block for 10A, PVS-2x1.0 wire.

Since most apartments still use two-wire electrical wiring, for example, we will assemble a two-wire extension cord without grounding.

We wrap four screws and disassemble the socket block. Inside there is a contact group with two screw terminals to which wires are connected.

We unscrew one screw and disassemble the plug.

We cut the wire of the required length, remove the outer insulation from the side of the socket block and the plug to the desired length.

The stranded wire is easy to use, it is soft and flexible, but when connected to the screw terminals, the wires are squeezed and the contact may be broken, sparking, heating may occur. Therefore, it is desirable to use NShVI crimping tips, or solder them.

If there are press tongs, then we crimp the wires of the socket block with tips.

The tip is inserted into the screw clamp and securely fixed with a screw.

We put the top cover of the plug on the wire, strip the wires to the required length and twist the ring to the size of the screw with which it will be clamped.

If there are no press tongs, then solder the stripped wires from the side of the plug and from the side of the socket block with solder.

In the socket block, we put the wires into the clamp and tighten them with screws. We fix the wire itself to the body of the socket block with a clamping bar and two screws so that during operation it is not possible to pull the wires out of the screw terminals. We also fasten the wires to the plug using screws with washers. We assemble the plug and socket block.

We check the correct assembly of the extension cord with a multimeter. We translate the switch of the device into the resistance measurement or buzzer mode. We connect one probe to one of the sockets of the socket block, with the other probe we touch one of the contacts of the plug. If we connected the device to one wire, then the multimeter should show zero resistance or the buzzer will beep. If to different wires, then the multimeter should show a break (1), and the buzzer should not beep. We rearrange the probe in the socket block and repeat the test. If everything is so - the extension cord is ready and you can use it.

Watch the step by step video How to assemble an extension cord with your own hands

Find out why an extension cord burns out?

Benefits of an extension cord with a switch

Extension cords have a different number of outlets, unequal wire lengths. In addition, they differ in the presence or absence of a switch in them.

Often homemade carrying has a switch installed on the wire. And on a carrier with a socket, and on a carrier with a lamp, it will come in handy.

In order to insert the button inside, you need to make a hole between the socket connectors, according to the dimensions of our switch. Electric carriers with a switch have some advantages.

Advantages of an extension cord with a switch:

The ability to disconnect electrical appliances from the network without removing the plug from the outlet;
Saving time on establishing the cause of a failure in the operation of electrical appliances.

If there is a switch on the carrying cord, then you will be relieved of the need to pull out the plugs of the devices connected to it. In this case, it will be enough to press the switch button. Sometimes it happens that when you connect the tool to the electric carrier, you see that it does not work. Finding the cause takes a lot of time. To quickly identify the cause, you need to mount a button with a light indication in the carrying. This button is rated for 220V. When the carrier is energized, it will be visible visually, which means that everything is in order with the power in it. The cause of the malfunction should be sought elsewhere. Also with this button, during a break in work, a complete de-energization of power tools will be performed.

Varieties

There are two main types of extension cords, divided by purpose. Some are needed for lighting, others for connecting electrical appliances. Regardless of the type of carrying, electric is equipped with a wire. The best option would be a round cable, but if it is not available, you can use a flat product. When choosing, first of all, it is necessary to take into account the expected loads, on which the characteristics of the wire depend. For a carrying lamp, a cable with a cross section of 1.5 squares is suitable. This parameter can be reduced for LED device.

An electric carrier designed to ensure the operation of various devices with high power must be equipped with a wire with a cross section of 2.5 squares. So it will be possible to connect any electrical appliances, both low-power radios and heaters. An additional power reserve should be provided for any extension cord, as its purpose may change in the future.

Carry wire selection

Among the most important criteria when choosing, it is necessary to note the number of cores, cross-section, length and type of wire. It is better to choose a flexible copper wire with a double layer of insulation. Cheaper wires are less resistant to mechanical stress. At the slightest damage, a conductive core opens and a person can be struck by an electric current.

The wire cross section should be selected based on the allowable load for a flexible two-core wire (see also our article). The best option is a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm². Such a cable freely withstands a continuous load of 16A and does not overheat during overloads. In addition, with such a cross section, there is minimal loss of electric current in long carriers from 30 m. It is recommended to carefully measure the required length of the wire, so that later you do not constantly wind up the excess and do not lay the extension cord tightly.

For safety reasons, it is recommended to provide grounding when carrying. In this case, a three-core wire should be selected. However, if the home wiring is two-core, it makes no sense to make grounding in the extension cord. In this case, a two-core cable, a block of sockets and a plug without grounding contacts will suffice.

Correct understanding of the functions of the extension cord

This derivative word from the verb "lengthen", which is used for the name of such a product often used in everyday life, can be interpreted in two ways - the network is lengthening to the consumer, or the power cord of the electrical appliance is becoming longer.

In the correct understanding of the functions of the extension cord, the foundations of fire safety for various consumers are laid.

In news bulletins about various incidents, it was very often possible to hear that such and such an office burned down due to extension cord fire, overloaded with computers, printers and other office equipment.

Melted and ignited carrying cable

And at the same time, the circuit breaker did not work, the RCD did not help, since the extension cord, which worked as part of the fixed wiring, was not actually a continuation of it - its cable turned out to be of a smaller cross section than the electrical wiring wires for which protection was designed.

In this case, the circuit breaker properly held the rated operating current while the thin carrying cables heated up, melted and ignited.

Therefore, when making an extension cord with your own hands, which will be installed permanently, you need to choose a cable for it of the same cross section as the wires of the power outlet of the electrical wiring - after all, the circuit breaker must protect the network in its most vulnerable section - where the cross section of the conductors is the smallest.

Stationary use of an extension cord is not recommended by the PUE, but in view of the impossibility of immediate redevelopment and repair of wiring, carrying is the only way to connect a computer and related equipment in the right place.

Reel extension

Consider another way how to make an extension cord on a reel yourself.

We will need a cable, the length of your choice, a socket block, a plug, two washers, an 8 mm bolt 16 cm long and a nut, an electric jigsaw, a screwdriver with a 8 mm drill and a reel.

First, let's make a coil. We cut out with a jigsaw two pancakes perfectly even, the diameter of which is 25 - 30 centimeters. Suitable material - plywood, chipboard. Next, in the pancakes, we drill a hole exactly in the middle, cut off exactly a polyethylene pipe 13 cm long with a diameter of 5 cm.

Then, we put a washer on the bolt, the bolt itself with a washer, push it into the hole in the pancake, then we put on the pipe, then the second pancake, washer, nut and tighten them together.

The polyethylene pipe serves as a sleeve between the pancakes. As you tighten, the sleeve must be centered. We drill another hole on the pancake from the edge 3 cm to the center. On one side of the cable we connect the socket block. We push the other end of the cable from the outside inward until the socket block rests against the coil, we fasten the socket with self-tapping screws. We connect the plug to the cord. And we wind the cord on the sleeve. The extension cord with the coil is ready.

Now let's look at a real example of a carry assembly.

Suppose you need to make a transfer, which will include a heater with a power of 1.5 kW, sometimes a drill with a power of 0.85 kW or some other trifle will be turned on: a phone charger, a portable lamp, a soldering iron, and maybe something else. If we calculate the total power of all these devices, then it will turn out to be no more than 3 kW. Based on this, it will take a PVA wire 3 * 1.5 mm2, it will be enough. There will even be a power reserve.

I will make a small digression and explain a little what these numbers mean - 3 * 1.5 mm2.

3 - the first digit always indicates the number of cores in the wire. It is advisable to take a three-wire wire for carrying, since in addition to the phase and zero, we will also have grounding.

1.5 mm2 is the cross section of one core. It happens that in a wire or cable, several cores have one section, and one or more cores have a different section.

Let's start assembling the carrier.

Therefore, we will use special tips for crimping NShVI.

First you need to strip the wire. Carefully remove the top insulation, and then strip the wires to the length required for crimping with tips. For stripping, it is best to use a special knife.

Attention. I want to explain to you why it is necessary to fix the wire with a clamp

The fact is that many people, when turning off carrying or other electrical appliances, do not pull on the plug, but on the cable. And thus the contact connection of the core with the contact of the plug can be damaged. Or the wire may be pulled out altogether.

Now, in order to close the cover of the socket block, we need to make a special recess for the wire. Carefully cut it out, then lay the wire, close the lid and screw it on.

For a better understanding, watch the video.

And in this video, a person makes a transfer without explanation.

In principle, everything, the carrying is ready and it can be operated. But you and I can improve it and insert a button into it.

Assembly instructions for a good extension cord

Most often, the desire to make an electric extension cord with your own hands arises when there is an urgent need (for example, during repairs) or when you are disappointed in finished products from manufacturers. And in truth, there are not rare cases when, when a washing machine or other electrical appliance is connected to a carrier, the socket begins to melt and turn yellow. This is due to the fact that manufacturers save on cable cross-section and build quality, which entails the inability to withstand network loads. To prevent this from happening, you can make a powerful electric extension cord yourself, spending literally half an hour and a little money. Further, readers of Sam Electric will be provided with simple instructions and useful tips from our experts!

So, for starters, let's figure out what you can make a good electric extension cord at home from:

Detachable electrical plug. You can cut it off from a failed electrical appliance, or you can buy a new one. The requirement for the plug is that it must be grounded.
Three-core cable of the required length. Here you need to pay attention to the purpose of the future homemade product. If powerful electrical appliances are to be connected (for example, a welding machine), the core diameter must be suitable. It is better to calculate the cable cross-section for current and power in advance. so that in the future you will not encounter problems such as socket melting and short circuits. Most often, when assembling an extension cord at home, they use PVA 3 * 1.5 and PVA 3 * 2.5 wires.
Block of sockets (or one single). There are also several main requirements: the back wall of the outlet must be closed, the product must have grounding contacts, the design must be made dust and moisture resistant. If all these requirements are met, the issue of the safety of using such an electric carrier will not worry you in the future.

As for tools, you may need the following:

multimeter (allows you to check the extension cord after assembly);
curly and straight screwdriver;
pliers or a special tool for stripping wires;
sharp knife;
insulating tape.

Using an example, let's consider how to make an electric extension cord yourself from a three-core cable with sockets for 4 sockets. So the assembly instructions look like this:

We unwind the plug and the socket block to prepare places for fixing the cores.
We remove the upper sheath of the cable from both sides by 4-6 cm.
We clean each wire by 10 mm, as shown in the photo below.
We insert the cores into the corresponding terminals and carefully tighten the screws with a screwdriver.

We twist the socket block and the plug in the reverse order. If the cable will dangle in the feedthrough, wind up some insulation to make the seat tighter.
Using a multimeter, we call a homemade electrical extension cord. If everything is correct, we turn on the plug directly into the mains and use it.

That's all the instructions for creating. We hope that now you know how to make an electric extension cord with your own hands at home. If suddenly you have any questions, ask them to our specialists in the category "Question to an electrician"!

I would like to additionally note that it is possible to make a more reliable version of the electric extension cord with a switch in the form of a button. In this case, you can turn off or turn on the power to the sockets. If you decide to assemble a long carrier (for example, 50 meters), then it is better to wind it on a special coil so that the wires do not get tangled all the time. In addition, the coil is more convenient to store than a coil of wires.

Video instructions for assembling a homemade extension cord

Frame manufacturing

The design is based on a double reel: it allows you to work independently with each end of the extension wire. To do this, I made this form.

I made one side for the end with a fork a little smaller: it is convenient for me to work when it is shorter.

You can cut curly holes in the board with a simple or electric jigsaw. However, I still only plan to make an electric jigsaw with my own hands, and an ordinary manual one was far away.

I had to drill holes on a homemade drill press for a drill. To speed up the work, at first I used a pen drill made of a steel pin and a spring from a high-voltage switch drive. It was made for furniture fittings.

Also used drills of smaller diameters. I finished the holes with a chisel and a knife, and leveled the edges with a file with a large tooth. Otherwise, sharp edges may break the insulation layer of the wire.

It turned out here is such a wooden frame for the trimmer extension.

It remains to impregnate it with varnish or paint to give a decorative look. But while it works in the original version.

They are comfortable to use, doing the job and carry in your hand.

Given the solidity of the cores, I do not press the wire tightly to the frame. It is wound in loose rings and is well held on the extension due to deep cuts in the wood.

Assembling the electric carrier

After acquiring all the elements, you can begin to assemble the carrier. First, connect the cable to the plug. Typically, plugs use screw or point terminals. To ensure the reliability of contact connections, it is necessary to make each core monolithic. To do this, the core can be soldered, a ring twisted from it, or special tips can be used. Similarly, the cable is connected to the socket block.

In grounded carriers, it is important to properly connect the wire. If the cable has a color marking of the cores, the neutral, phase and ground conductors are connected by color

In the absence of marking, it is recommended to check the final result by dialing. Such a measure will allow and prevent the appearance of phase voltage on the extension cord housing.

If carried in a hurry, uncovered parts of the live conductor may appear. The operation of such an extension cord is life threatening. It is better to spend more time and money on quality structural elements, but make it safe and reliable to carry.

How to make an electric carrier

First you need to prepare the cable. To do this, the cores are released by removing the top insulation. Next, all the cores are stripped separately, each wire must be bare at least 5 mm.

To disassemble the plug, it is enough to unscrew one screw. On one side of the wire, you need to put on the plug body, and do not forget about the rubber seal. Next, the cable retainer is unscrewed from the inside of the plug, which is a plastic bracket fixed with self-tapping screws. Now you need to connect the plug contacts to the ends of the wiring and assemble the entire structure

Particular attention is paid to the connection of contacts, the main thing is to securely fix all the elements, but do not overdo it.

Step by step assembly guide.

Remove the first layer from both sides of the electrical cable top insulation by 50-70 mm, and then we clean each wire by 1 centimeter.
We disassemble the plug. by unscrewing the bolt or self-tapping screw and loosening the screws of the clamp, which is designed to fix the cable in the plug housing.
We connect the stripped ends to the two pins of the plug. No matter what where. The main thing is to put the third core of a certain color (yellow-green in the picture) on the grounding contact of the plug and socket, respectively. If the design provides for fastening under a bolt with a washer, then I recommend dividing all the wires of one core in half, and then wrap them on both sides of the bolt into a ring. Just don't tighten too hard so that you can screw the bolt into place with a screwdriver.
We fix the cable clamp and collect the plug.
We disassemble the socket block and connect two wires to the contacts, and the third to the grounding contacts so that they are connected with the same ones on the plug. It is better to solder the tip of the stranded core or put on the tip, in extreme cases, tightly twist all the wires of the core together with pliers.
We fix the cable in the case and assemble the block.

That's all the extension cord is ready, it remains to check it by plugging it into the outlet, but it's better to ring it with a multimeter.

During operation, avoid damage to the cable - isolate all that appear immediately with electrical tape only on the extension cord that is unplugged from the outlet.
Broken sockets and plugs must be replaced.
Do not let water get inside.
Do not overload beyond the allowable limits.
When operating at close to maximum loads, it is better to unwind long extension cords, due to the possibility of heating in the coil or on the drum.
Make any repairs only after disconnecting from the mains.

Connecting a 380 volt socket
Repair of switches and sockets
Installation of outdoor sockets
Connecting a 220 Volt outlet

Extension connection at break or extension

With long-term use of an extension cord, sometimes the cable closes due to kinks, blows once applied to the cord, etc. Maybe they wanted to increase the length of the extension cord. Consider how to connect the extension cord with your own hands.

First, unplug the power cord. If the cable is shorted, it will be immediately visible, cut off on both sides from the epicenter of the circuit 10 cm, wipe off the soot. We remove the upper insulating sheath of the cable 5 cm, clean the wires 1.5 cm on both sides.

We twist two bare wires together as tightly as possible, preferably without gaps for good contact, this will prevent the connection from heating up under load. We isolate the twist with insulating tape, and do the same with other wires, be sure to wrap both twists with insulating tape, for twisting elasticity and strength.

Some prefer soldering wires, this method is better than twisting. The soldering of wires and insulation is carried out in the same way. When extending the cable, the same work is done

How to connect a backlit switch

There is no difference in the appearance of a conventional switch without illumination and a switch with illumination, except for a window for illumination. The backlight only works when the lights are off, and consumes little electricity. The illuminated switch circuit is assembled with a neon lamp resistor and an LED resistor.

When the switch is off, the voltage for the indication is supplied through the filament of the lamp, which has a low resistance. The indicator lights up because almost 220 V is applied to it. If the switch is turned on, the indicator lamp is short-circuited by the contacts, the current goes directly to the incandescent lamp, the backlight does not light up.

Connecting a light switch

A question may arise. Why is the backlight on, but the lamp is not on? The current through the backlight, be it a neon lamp or an LED, is limited by high resistance, so it is not enough to light an incandescent lamp. An incandescent lamp needs a lot of current.

Connecting the backlight to the switch contacts

A backlit switch connection diagram can be assembled on a neon light bulb or LED with a resistor. LED illuminated switches may not always work well with fluorescent and LED lamps. the glow of the indicator may be so small that it may not be noticed.

This is due to the fact that the resistance of the power supply of energy-saving and LED lamps is greater than the filament of incandescent lamps. The current is limited by this resistance, and the voltage on the indicator is not enough to illuminate the switch.

Schemes of switches with illumination assembled on LEDs

The following is a simple circuit of a backlit switch assembled on a single LED and can be easily repeated.

The first scheme for connecting the LED backlight to the switch

The purpose of the diode VD1 according to the scheme is to protect against breakdown of the LED by reverse voltage. The reverse voltage of the LED is 20 V, and the reverse voltage in the network for it is equal to the value of the negative part of the sinusoid, which is much higher than Uobr of the LED. This LED-lit switch circuit consumes up to 1 kW of electricity per month, which is quite a lot.

If you want to assemble this or another backlight scheme, the connections must be made by twisting and soldering. Bare wires, resistors, must be well insulated with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Another backlight circuit on a resistor and a capacitor.

The second scheme for connecting the LED backlight to the switch

The capacitor here plays the role of a voltage divider. The resistor in this circuit is set to 100 - 500 ohms, it is designed to limit the charge current of the capacitance. The power consumption of this backlight circuit is less than 50 watts per month. The disadvantages of LED circuits include their size, however, there is enough space in the switch housing.

Neon lighting circuit on a resistor

The backlight on the neon lamp is small in size and consumes little electricity. It requires very little current to light a neon light bulb, so it is suitable for energy-saving lamps and for illuminating LED light switches.

The neon lighting scheme is suitable for energy-saving and LED lamps

The resistor is selected with a power greater than 0.25 W. A neon light bulb is not hard to find in your home. They are placed as voltage indicators in extension cords, electric kettles, irons and other household electrical appliances. Such indicators are already completely ready for installation in switches.

How to choose sockets and switches

Connecting an rj 45 socket. How to connect an internet socket

Socket in the bathroom. Requirements for sockets in the bathroom

Connecting a single-gang switch

Socket

can be made of plastic or ceramic base. Do not forget about the size of the base and the power of the lamps that will be used. Each product has its own load limit, which is indicated in amperes. The electric extension cord is equipped with special sockets, which are noticeably different from the usual overhead and built-in options. They have a completely closed design, while even the holes for the plug are protected. The form can be any, both triple and single. Some options have the ability to use six plugs at the same time. The best option would be a device that allows you to connect four devices.

It is also recommended to provide a switch, especially if the electric carrier is used both as a portable and as a stationary source of lighting. As a rule, the switch is installed on the wire itself.

The connection of all components is possible with a minimum number of tools. To work, you only need a screwdriver and a knife. With a soldering iron, the processing of the ends of the cables will be noticeably simplified, and the extension cord will become safer when working with devices that consume a large amount of energy.

From theory to practice

Of the tools you will need - side cutters, a screwdriver (flat or Phillips), a knife and pliers. If everything is there, we start work. An extension cord, unlike wiring laid in an apartment, is convenient with a simple minimum, both in a set of tools and in execution.

First, we measure the required length of the wire. Then it is necessary to expose the ends of the cores, on both sides, for connection with the contacts of the sockets. With a knife, carefully cut the wire insulation. The length of the bare area must be at least 1 cm. It is not necessary to cut the insulation heavily so as not to damage the wire core. Carefully remove the cut section with side cutters.

We disassemble the plug, unscrew the small bolts securing the wires. The stripped ends, having previously bent the ring, are pushed under the washer. Polarity is not required. It is advisable to insert the bare wire from left to right so that when the screw is fastened clockwise, the wire does not fly out from under the washer. By connecting the contacts, we assemble the socket. Don't forget a single detail. There should be a washer under the bolts, at the outlet of the plug, the wire secures the clamp.

Now we disassemble the socket block, and by analogy we connect the wires in it. Here, too, there are no recommendations for observing polarity. The main thing is accuracy. You can additionally solder the contact so that the connection is reliable. If you use an extension cord when working with high-voltage devices, you need to make grounding in the sockets. For this, a three-wire wire is purchased. From the socket block, one wire is output to connect to ground during operation.

How to make an electric carrier with a switch.

In a hardware store we buy a button with a backlight KCD3

When buying, pay attention to the technical specifications. It is necessary that the button be designed for a voltage of at least 220 V, usually they are written 250 V, current 16 A and the degree of protection must be at least IP - 55

There will be three contacts on the button. Two are needed for connecting (switching) power, and the third for backlighting.

The button should be marked where the input and output are, and where the contact for the backlight is.

The third wire, as you remember, sits on our ground. We close the cover of the socket block and you can check.

If you turn on the button, it should light up, and thus it will signal that there is voltage in the outlet. When turned off, the backlight will turn off, and, accordingly, the sockets will not work.

As a reinforcement of knowledge, I advise you to watch the video clip.

Good video how to make a carry with a switch

How to fix an extension cord at home

That's all for me. I hope the article was useful to you. Click on the buttons of social networks, and subscribe to updates. Ask your questions in the comments. Bye.

Sincerely, Alexander!

Fixing the wiring in the cartridge and socket

Disassembly of the socket begins with the removal of the top cover, thus providing free access to the internal elements. The wiring is connected to the internal terminals, which may differ depending on the type of outlet. Most often, a terminal is installed in the form of a screw with a square nut. Less popular are quick connect devices that are based on a push mechanism. Their feature is the need to hold when fixing the cable. In the future, the wire is clamped automatically after lowering the device. When choosing a socket with terminals of this type, it is recommended to supplement the ends of the cables with special end caps or simply solder them.

Installing the cartridge is not difficult and does not require special skills. The design is disassembled into two separate parts, the ends of the cables are connected to the main internal element (core). Further, all parts are installed in the reverse order.

As it becomes clear, an electric carrier on a reel is a fairly simple product, the manufacture of which is within the power of any person who does not have knowledge in this area. It is only necessary to stock up on all the constituent elements and do not forget about safety precautions. The length of the product is selected individually, depending on the operating conditions and the needs of the owner. Wiring is most often sold in coils, the winding of which can reach up to 300 meters. For greater convenience on long carriers, you should take care of the presence of a winding system, which can be a drum or reel.

Restrictions on the use of electrical extension cords

Regulatory documents give a narrow range of restrictions on the use of extension cords. Without special protection measures, the operation of motors with a power of more than 1 kW is not allowed (without specifying the type: asynchronous, collector). We will bypass the condition only in one case: it is necessary to make it possible to disable / enable the contact only when the equipment is turned off. Apparently, the occurrence of an arc is assumed here, with a sharp break or switching of the circuit.

Partially stripped cable for current measurement with clamps

The typical extension cable is not suitable for current clamp measurements. An example is given in the photo. The insulation of the supply wire is broken, it is permissible to carry out measurements with a current clamp. The photo is incapable of serving as an example of how to make the ideal type of extension cord yourself. In our case, a two-wire wire was used, nothing more was required, the socket was taken from the old type, where the diameter of the sockets includes plugs of devices made according to the European standard. Helps to avoid connection difficulties.

Socket and extension phases

I would like to add here a not so obvious fact, it is definitely not difficult to trace in practice: the extension cord plug stands as it should. Holding the wire, you can find: the phase is always on the side that is in the outlet. Look at the photo, it is demonstrated: the plug is located in the most obvious way, with the wire down. Phase in the position shown on the left. Helps electricians, craftsmen stop guessing. Phase on the left.

A symmetrical fork is devoid of a pronounced direction. The recess for protective contact is located on top. As for prefabricated forks, where there is none, you need to navigate with inscriptions (see photo) so that they are readable, not located upside down. We emphasize that in this case it all depends on how we connect the wiring inside the extension cord. It is necessary to make sure that at the indicated location of the plug, the phase coincides with the socket in the extension cord (if you take it as shown in the photo). At first glance, unnecessary complexity, in a working situation it is useful for different purposes.

Symmetrical fork inscription

Please note: for powerful appliances, the plug is non-separable. In search of a cable of such a length corresponding to a given condition, let's go for a deceptive maneuver: . We carefully close the wire according to the instructions.
We take the compound of the filler sleeve, pour it inside

After solidification, the cooling conditions will slightly worsen, but a reliable framework for maintaining the shape is formed. In other words, the plug after such manipulations becomes non-separable.

We carefully close the wire according to the instructions.
We take the compound of the filler sleeve, pour it inside. After solidification, the cooling conditions will slightly worsen, but a reliable framework for maintaining the shape is formed. In other words, the plug after such manipulations becomes non-separable.

Choosing a quality electrical extension cord

New-fangled extension cords, in which there are from 2 to 10 sockets, are provided in the distribution network in a wide range. But even professionals cannot afford to choose a high-quality extension cord among this abundance.

When choosing an electric extension cord, we first of all look at the wire, the most optimal PVA wire, it is round, so it will not twist during operation

If you purchased a carrier in a store, then you should not trust the parameters indicated on the package. Usually they are overpriced - this is such a marketing ploy.

Therefore, whatever the advertisement, it is impossible to exceed the total electrical power of the included devices. The requirements for a quality extension cord are 2000 watts or 2kW. You can also purchase a block in the store. Following the rules of electrical safety is the best protection. We are now talking about small-length carriers. In practice, it is necessary, for example, at a construction site, to use a cable over 20 meters. Such carriers are often tangled and even tied into knots. To avoid this, builders use extension cords on a reel. The frame, like the coil, is also used for this purpose. This electric carrier has differences.

Indicators by which extension cords on a reel differ:

Length;
Power;
The material from which the coil is made.

The length of the extension cord is selected as required for work at this facility, plus a small margin. The power indicator can be for construction within 5 kW. The coil itself is made of iron or plastic. For domestic use, a plastic coil will suffice, but for a construction site it is better to take an iron coil. Under these conditions, it will last longer. There is also an adapter for a high voltage extension cord. It is used when taking oscillograms on cars, where all the coils are combined into one frame.

When making an extension cord, it is better to adhere to generally accepted standards. For powerful equipment, the fork is non-separable. Let's sort it out in order, we'll bring in a couple of fresh ideas about making reliable connections with your own hands: how to choose a cable, where to borrow an outlet. As a result, we hope that readers will understand how to make an extension cord on their own.

Choosing an extension cable

The first question on the agenda. Need a cable. Think about why we decide to make an extension cord:

Firstly, the inability to buy an extension cord according to the required parameters. Most often it is the length of the cable.
Secondly, a special extension cord is convenient to measure the power of household appliances (220 volts, 380 volts) using current clamps. It is required that the cores of the section selected for measurements run separately. In this case, it becomes possible to measure the level of the magnetic field of the conductor (going together create an interpolation, making the process impossible).
Sometimes an extension cord is used as a fixed outlet. Curiously, no documents regulate the minimum height. It is allowed to put sockets on the plinth.

By choosing an extension cable, the PUE sets out the facts and prescriptions.

Combining the zero protective and working conductors is not possible

It is not allowed for portable consumers to combine zero protective, working conductors. It is not allowed to put the ground terminal to zero. Although there is no prohibition in stationary sockets. We think it has to do with protection.

Sockets designed to turn on equipment used in outdoor conditions are protected by a differential machine. Note - we do not know in advance the scope of the extension cord. At the same time, the combination of protective and neutral conductors violates the principle of operation. As a result, a person working on the street can be killed before the overcurrent protection works.

Cable selection

For the above reason, it is reasonable to equip the extension cord with a three-core cable. Otherwise, the operating conditions of most of the equipment are clearly violated. What about electric tools? Deprived of the ground terminal, regulations have been issued according to which it is forbidden to do. According to the mentioned standards, the electric tool is equipped with reinforced insulation (second safety class II), work calmly in damp rooms, on snow, provided that the extension cord is soundly insulated. At a minimum, curtains are provided on the nests, a cheap socket will not work, you will have to break the element (sticks).

Sockets and plugs

Probably, you still use the equipment of the USSR. Old plugs do not always fit European sockets. I don’t want to disfigure the butt connector, let’s use a loophole: it is permissible to use ordinary sockets with grounding on the basis. As a result, a universal device appears, which can be used in any conditions. Dial the extension cord with the necessary elements.

Cross section of extension cable

For household electrical receivers, according to the PUE, the cross section is not less than 0.75 square millimeters of copper. Pay attention to the photo. A portion of the H05VV-F cable of a typical marked extension cable is visible. 3G means the presence of three cores, the copper section is written next to it - 1 square millimeter. The extension cord meets the requirements of the PUE. For industrial receivers for copper 1.5 square millimeters.

In practice, we choose the cross section with a large margin, focusing on needs. The characteristics of the H05VV-F cable are standardized by GOST IEC 60227-5. From the reference to GOST 22483, we learn the correspondence between AWG calibers, copper cross-section, which will allow us to order on Aliexpress. It is easy to see that there are no tables for maximum currents, similar information is given in the old version of the PUE (sixth edition). We do not think that the change in legislation has caused damage to the laws of nature, we boldly recommend the figures to readers. From table 1.3.4 we learn that for cables with PVC insulation, a copper conductor with a cross section of 0.75 square millimeters, the allowable current is 15 A. In terms of power, 230 x 15 = 3.45 kW.

It is not proposed to include the welding machine in an extension cord. Therefore, it is better not to use the minimum copper cross section, take it with a margin. The extension cord has several outlets. It becomes possible to work simultaneously with two or more devices, it is difficult to take into account the real power consumption. At maximum current, welding machines, for example, demonstrate operating cycle parameters characterized by the duration of rest and activity.

Among other things, regarding the choice of the cross section of the cores, please note: in three-phase circuits, it is allowed to use a wire where the neutral (working, protective) conductor is thinner than the others. The PUE allows the use of cables until the legislation is changed with an explicit prohibition to do so. In other cases, the thickness of the neutral conductor is not thinner than the phase ones.

Flexibility class

Please note: the conductors are of a high class of flexibility. The extension cord is not considered stationary equipment, presumably, it will have to be used in a variety of conditions. The strands must not break with endless changes in position.

Achieved by design features. First of all, a set of sections with many small wires. More details can be read GOST 22483. Why? PUE says: the connection of conductors of a low class of flexibility (single-wire) is allowed under the screw only in stationary installations. The rule indirectly says: in the case of an extension cord, use a different cable.

The higher the flexibility class, the better. When ordering a wire PV, PVS, we pay attention to the factor. The core class fits into the range 2 - 4. It is clear that it is better to take the latter. Less likely to break the core by frequent bending (the class specifies the minimum radius).

Additional requirements

Additional requirements are imposed on installation devices for lighting, socket outlets. Regarding protective contacts. The protective contact of the socket is a pin that forms a triangle with the sockets, which does not allow the device to be turned on in the wrong way. Electrically, this part is securely grounded.

As a result, we know the location of the phase. Therefore, we will provide a break with a switch located on the wire. Provides protection against phase out on the cartridge when needed. Visible on European sockets - ground contact.

Please note: the plug of most powerful household appliances is equipped with a deep hole for a protective contact. Although the technique does not apply to lighting. The manufacturer realizes the versatility of butt connectors of equipment.

Restrictions on the use of electrical extension cords

Partially stripped cable for current measurement with clamps

Socket and extension phases

Symmetrical fork inscription

Please note: for powerful appliances, the plug is non-separable. In search of a cable of such a length that meets the given condition, let's go for a deceptive maneuver:

We carefully close the wire according to the instructions.
We take the compound of the filler sleeve, pour it inside. After solidification, the cooling conditions will slightly worsen, but a reliable framework for maintaining the shape is formed. In other words, the plug after such manipulations becomes non-separable.

Varieties of extension cords

We do not see the difficulty of making an extension cord for headphones with our own hands. Today, there are plenty of collapsible USB connectors on the market, we can get a four-core copper cord anywhere in the world (using Aliexpress). The power rails go sideways: you can see they are pushed forward to avoid loss of information when the contacts are opened. Data passes through two wires inside. It is better to take the cable without connections, in one piece, the attenuation of a weak signal will be minimal. We consider it an excellent option to get a shielded cable: it will certainly increase the communication range.

Twisted pair is suitable for USB. The frequencies will be somewhat different, imperceptibly at short distances. You can make a modem extension if you have crimping pliers. The shown photos are taken in DNS, suitable for 8 and 6-position connectors (suitable for telephonists).

Finally, no complications with audio jack connectors. You must have noticed: mono sometimes comes out on the front panel of the system unit ... Bite your elbows? Just look inside, make the correct layout of the board by setting the necessary jumpers, pull the cable with the required number of cores to the motherboard. The whole secret: it's just that some manufacturers are too lazy to do it, pushing cheap stuff. We believe that now every reader has understood how to make a USB extension cable himself, the goal of the review has been achieved.

We say goodbye, we believe that the knowledge gained will really come in handy in practice, when once again you need to make an extension cord with your own hands.

In everyday life, situations often arise when, during construction work, it is necessary to move the connection point to the facade of the building or to the fence. The stationary installation of the outlet, in this case, is both impractical and dangerous, so the power is supplied using an electrical extension cord. In the same way, you can solve design flaws in household appliances (a short cord or a cross-section mismatch with the load) or organize network connection points in any place convenient for you. To do this, you will need to make an electric extension cord with your own hands.

What do you need to make an extension cord?

An electric carrier can be assembled from any materials at hand (old household appliances, cable remnants, etc.). If not, purchase all items from scratch. For manufacturing, take the following materials and elements:

collapsible plug;
cable of the required length;
closed electrical socket or block of sockets (depending on how many connection points you need).

To disassemble the elements and then assemble an electrical extension cord from them, use a screwdriver of a suitable size and shape. To cut the wires, you will need wire cutters or pliers, a clerical knife to remove insulation.

To prevent overheating and accidents, all parts for electric carrying must be selected for specific needs.

How to choose materials?

For example, if you install the unit on two sockets, one of which is designed for a vacuum cleaner that consumes 5 A, and the second for an electric drill that consumes 3 A. Thus, the total current will be 8 A. Accordingly, in this case, you will have enough plugs and sockets with a nominal value at 10 A, while leaving a margin of 2 A if you need to connect a more powerful device.

To determine the cross section of the wire, the same amount of load is used, to which 20 - 30% is added for a safety margin. The specific value of the core area is selected from the table so that the resulting value of the connected load does not exceed the allowable value for this wire.

Table: dependence of the permissible load on the cross section of the core

For example, for a load of 8 A, you add 20% margin I \u003d 8 + 1.6 \u003d 9.6 A. Since copper wire is much more convenient and preferable for an electrical extension cord, consider it as an example. For the example under consideration, any brand of cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 is quite enough for you.

It should be noted that if you are going to use a homemade extension cord in a three-wire system (phase, zero and ground), then you will need a cable with three cores, and sockets and a switch should have three outputs. If your house uses only two wires - phase and zero, it makes no sense to make an extension cord with three leads.

Making an extension cord: step by step instructions

As a rule, the manufacturing process does not take much time, so if you have all the necessary elements and tools, you can make an electric extension cord in 15 to 20 minutes. To do this, follow these steps:

Be careful not to cut the wire strands, otherwise this will reduce the cross section and may lead to further overheating at the attachment point.

Note that the assembled fork should not have gaps - both parts fit snugly together. If you find a gap, take it apart again and fix the cause of the unevenness. At the exit from the plug, the extension cord should fit snugly to the edges, if its diameter is not enough, add some electrical tape.

Rice. 5: assemble the plug

As standard, they are equipped with one bolt in the center of the socket, but if the cover does not lend itself, the structure should be inspected for additional attachment points.

Rice. 7: standard socket attachment point

If you are making a device for a three-wire network, be sure to follow the wire markings. Especially for the ground wire, otherwise you can apply voltage to the body of the device.

Assemble the socket in reverse order, the electrical extension cord is ready.

Rice. 9: assemble the outlet - the extension cord is ready

Please note that when connecting certain parts, contact must be provided using special clamps, sleeves or by soldering. In no case is it allowed to provide contact only by screwing the wire to the lamellas or other parts. After making an electric extension cord, do not rush to plug it into the outlet, first check its serviceability with.

Checking the health of the electrical extension cord.

To check the performance of the carrying, you will need a regular multimeter or megohmmeter. The whole process can be conditionally divided into checking the integrity of the line and checking the insulation. Initially set the multimeter to mode:

Connect one lead of the multimeter to the socket of the socket, and with the second touch the contact of the plug of the electrical extension cord. If the device does not indicate the presence of a circuit, touch the second pin of the plug.
Hold the multimeter probe on the same contact of the plug, where the device showed the circuit, and check the other sockets in the block. Their contacts of the same name should also give a circuit on the ringing of an electric extension cord.
Check the second pair of contacts of electrical outlets and the output of the extension plug, they should also show the presence of a circuit on the ring.
If you are using a three-wire extension cord, ring the circuit between the grounding pins on the plug and each of the outlets in the same way.

Rice. 10: the principle of continuity of the extension cord

The presence of a circuit between all of the listed terminals indicates that the extension cord can normally transmit electricity in a closed circuit. But, in addition to the circuit, you need to make sure that the insulation is in good condition. What is a megohmmeter used for, but if it is not available, you can use the same multimeter in insulation measurement mode. For industrial purposes, measuring insulation with a multimeter is not permissible, but for domestic needs this will be quite enough.

During the measurement, you need to set the limit to the maximum value of the resistance kΩ or MΩ. Bring the probes to the phase and zero terminals on the plug, if the resistance is more than 500 MΩ or infinity, its level is sufficient for the normal operation of the electric extension cord.

Rice. 11: resistance measurement between phase and zero

If the resistance tends to zero or is tens of ohms, you have broken the insulation somewhere and you need to double-check all the places of electrical contacts in the extension cord. If there is a grounding contact, the resistance value must also be checked between the phase - ground and between zero - ground.

Rice. 12: ground resistance measurement

If during the tests you determined the integrity of the phase, zero and ground circuits in the manufactured electrical extension cord, as well as a sufficient level of resistance between all terminals, then such a carrying can be safely used to connect equipment.

Video instruction

There are situations when the extension cord is short, and the subject of connection is further than the length of the extension cord. Of course, you can take another one to connect them and connect electronic equipment. And if there is no other extension cord and socket nearby, but there is lighting (an electric incandescent lamp socket), then you can be smart. Do-it-yourself extension cord ideas arise.

How to connect an extension cord to the network using a lamp

So, we need pliers, insulating tape, a lamp, wire cutters and the extension cord itself. We take the lamp, carefully break the glass, remove the glass burrs from the threaded part of the lamp with pliers. We leave the central glass rod, then we bite off the central antennae with wire cutters, leave the side electrodes.

We take an extension plug, one electrode and tightly wrap several turns on the plug pin and isolate it with insulating tape. Moreover, the glass rod should be between the pins of the plug in the middle.

We do the same with the second electrode and part of the plug, then we wrap the entire connection with tape for elasticity and insulation. We screw our knot into the cartridge, turn on the switch and the extension cord under voltage.

Do-it-yourself extension cord

Basically, those who make extension cords with their own hands use a cable for large loads from 3 to 5 kilowatts. The most optimal soft two-wire copper cable made from a lot of wire copper is P V C, the cross section of which is 2-2.3 mm.

Let's turn to the instructions on how to make an extension cord yourself.

It is necessary to remove the top layer of cable insulation 5-7 centimeters, then strip the wires 1-1.5 centimeters.
Then we disassemble the plug by unscrewing the screw, loosen the fixing clamp in the plug with the screw.
We connect the wires to the plug contacts and clamp them with screws, fix the cable with a clamp and assemble the plug.
Let's disassemble the socket block and connect the wires to the contact plates, just like on the plug. Then we assemble the block.

It is not at all difficult to make an extension cord yourself, it will cost you many times cheaper than buying it in a store.

Reel extension

Consider another way how to make an extension cord on a reel yourself.

We will need a cable, the length of your choice, a socket block, a plug, two washers, an 8 mm bolt 16 cm long and a nut, an electric jigsaw, a screwdriver with a 8 mm drill and a reel.

First, let's make a coil. We cut out with a jigsaw two pancakes perfectly even, the diameter of which is 25 - 30 centimeters. The material is suitable - plywood, chipboard. Next, in the pancakes, we drill a hole exactly in the middle, cut off exactly a polyethylene pipe 13 cm long with a diameter of 5 cm.

Then, we put a washer on the bolt, the bolt itself with a washer, push it into the hole in the pancake, then we put on the pipe, then the second pancake, washer, nut and tighten them together.

Extension connection at break or extension

First, unplug the power cord. If the cable is shorted, it will be immediately visible, cut off on both sides from the epicenter of the circuit 10 cm, wipe off the soot. We remove the upper insulating sheath of the cable 5 cm, clean the wires 1.5 cm on both sides.

Some prefer soldering wires, this method is better than twisting. The soldering of wires and insulation is carried out in the same way. When extending the cable, the same work is done

What can you make an extension cord at home

If there is no purchased cable, then from what can you make an extension cord at home. Some far-sighted people, in the event of a breakdown of any electrical device that go only for scrap, for example: a vacuum cleaner, a drill, a refrigerator, an electric furnace, etc., cut off the cords and leave them as they come in handy.

And indeed, from several shreds of cords of different lengths, you can assemble a good extension cord. The old wiring will also fit after replacement.

When connecting, step-by-step assembly of extension cords and instructions for assembling extension cords will help. Of course, this option is a way out for urgent need, but not for permanent operation, in order to avoid fire safety.

How to make a surge protector (extension cord) with your own hands. Electrical extension cord. Types and application. How to choose How to make an extension cord from a three-core cable

Now let's look at a real example of a carry assembly.

How to make an electric carrier with a switch.

Extension assembly

Electric plug - with grounding

Preparing to assemble the extension

Do-it-yourself extension cord

Accessories for assembling an electric carrier

Electrical checks

Evaluation of conductors

Checking the dielectric layer of insulation

Measurement of insulation between cores

Analysis of the quality of the dielectric layer of wires

How to make an electric carrier with your own hands

What are extension cords

Do-it-yourself extension cord manufacturing technology.

Do-it-yourself extension cord.

Benefits of an extension cord with a switch

Varieties

Carry wire selection

Correct understanding of the functions of the extension cord

Reel extension

Now let's look at a real example of a carry assembly.

Assembly instructions for a good extension cord

Frame manufacturing

Assembling the electric carrier

How to make an electric carrier

Step by step assembly guide.

Extension connection at break or extension

How to connect a backlit switch

Connecting a light switch

Schemes of switches with illumination assembled on LEDs

Neon lighting circuit on a resistor

Socket

From theory to practice

How to make an electric carrier with a switch.

Fixing the wiring in the cartridge and socket

Restrictions on the use of electrical extension cords

Choosing a quality electrical extension cord

Choosing an extension cable

Combining the zero protective and working conductors is not possible

Cable selection

Sockets and plugs

Cross section of extension cable

Flexibility class

Additional requirements

Restrictions on the use of electrical extension cords

Varieties of extension cords

What do you need to make an extension cord?

Making an extension cord: step by step instructions

Video instruction

How to connect an extension cord to the network using a lamp

Do-it-yourself extension cord

Reel extension

Extension connection at break or extension

What can you make an extension cord at home

Do-it-yourself photo of extension cords