Doorway in brickwork. Correct reduction of the doorway in height

When it comes to entering new apartment old layout. There is a way out - reducing the doorway in height or width. This is a simple job, accessible even to a layman. A minimum set of tools is required and additional materials... In addition, reducing the opening will help quite significantly change appearance apartments.

It is better to edit before the start. finishing works: the wallpaper will still have to be torn. And if there are electrical communications in the wall that will interfere with installation, then they should also be moved in order to avoid an accident when working with a hammer drill and drill.

In order to reduce the height of the opening, the work can be done in several ways:

• using a wooden bar;
• drywall;
• installation of a concrete or brick partition.

Method 1: installation of an opening from a wooden bar

You will need:

You can reduce the opening by installing a wooden beam.

• wooden beams, with a section of 2-3 cm less than the width of the doorway;
• nails or screws, which are 1.5 times longer than a bar;
• drywall or chipboard;
• self-tapping screws for sheathing;
• primer.

Instruments:

• hammer drill or drill;
• plane;
• hammer;
• square, level, pencil;
• brush.

If the timber is greater than the thickness of the doorway, then the excess is removed using a planer - ideally, the structure will be a surface flush with the wall. It should be noted that cladding material is attached to the timber, so its thickness should be adjusted to these dimensions. It will be nice to grind a wooden beam: and the cladding will lie smoother, and there will be no splinters.

The beam is measured exactly along the width of the opening, so that it fits snugly and does not require lining. Hammer it down until the edges meet the ideal level position. You need to check with him often.

After the timber has firmly entered the doorway, it is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws so that the fastener caps enter the tree deeper than the surface. You need to fasten the beam from three sides - from the sides and bottom along a pair of fasteners.

The surface of the timber is sewn up with plasterboard or chipboard. Elements are cut out from the appropriate materials and fastened with small self-tapping screws.

In order to reduce the opening with plasterboard, you need to install a frame from the profile to which it will be attached.

The seams between the wall and the sewn timber are sealed with putty or other material. The entire structure of the finished doorway is primed for subsequent finishing or pasting. The primer is selected in accordance with the rule that everyone meets chemical compositions for internal works, as few volatile compounds as possible.

Disadvantage of reducing the opening height wooden beams lies in the fact that when purchased, the tree may not meet the quality due to improper storage. During operation, it can "lead", that is, deform. And the advantage is the ease of installation when installed in the opening of the door frame of the interior door. In this case, you do not have to work with a punch to make holes in the wall. In addition, wood is a warm and environmentally friendly material.

Method 2: reducing the opening in height using drywall

Perhaps the most easy way and not expensive. To the materials for installation from the first option, you need to add a profile that is attached to the wall with dowels. Vertical suspensions are also useful in order to avoid cracks in the filler in the future.

The drywall profile is cut to the required length and fastened with self-tapping screws.

1. The profile is cut to the required length, corresponding to the width of the opening, and the suspensions are measured from the top to the profile with an allowance of 2 cm.When strengthening the profile, the suspensions are attached to the inner surface of the doorway with self-tapping screws, and its edges must be screwed to the outer surface of the profiles with a bent residue.
2. Then a piece of drywall cut to size is fixed to the mounted structure from the profile and hangers. The work is carried out by means of a screwdriver with a step of 15-20 cm. The part must be fastened from several sides at the same time in order to avoid skewing.
3. After installation, the structure should be primed, and the joints with the wall should be sealed with putty materials. Then the surface is decorated in accordance with the overall picture of the walls.

The disadvantage of this design is that the structure of the doorway during the installation of the box should be strengthened in the upper part, since there will be a void there. You will still have to insert at least some foam inside. With plasterboard, the doorway is reduced when they want to make an arch, which does not imply an interior door.

Method 3: brickwork or foam blocks

A more reliable way to reduce the height of the doorway is to expose the brickwork using an aerated concrete block. Also this practical choice material so that the interior door is held more securely.

Materials:

• bricks in the right amount or aerated concrete block(now there are different sizes and it is quite possible to do with one);
• steel corners - 2 pcs.;
• cement mortar for masonry;
• cladding material, drywall or chipboard;
• fasteners - dowels and screws.

Instruments:

• puncher;
• screwdriver;
• building level;
• trowels and graters;
• roulette.

First, they are determined with the required number of bricks. If it is decided to reduce the doorway with the help of a foam block, then it is adjusted to the desired size. As a rule, cutting is not difficult: the blocks can be easily shaped using a saw. You can estimate how it will be even before working with the wall on the floor: corners are exposed and a block or bricks are placed on them.

Then you need to work with a punch: on the opposite walls of the doorway, marks of the desired height are made and then grooves are hollowed out for inserting iron corners. They are fixed with bolts or dowels, holes for which are made in advance. It is necessary to ensure that the canvases of the corners are exactly flush with the wall.

After that, the laying of the block or brick begins with the help of cement mortar. The work is dirty, you will need a container for diluting the composition, gloves and a construction mixer. It is necessary to follow the instructions on the package of the mixture exactly. A wooden block is laid on the surface of the finished masonry, completing the closing of the opening (this is in the case of a block, the bricks will be laid out to the end).

Construction trowels level the masonry surface and remove excess cement composition.

You can not use cladding, but make plaster of the entire mounted surface, but it is worth considering: it will then have to be carefully processed and coated with primers more than once, since the new surface is porous and will absorb anything. On decorative coating dark spots may appear. This does not contribute to the beauty of, for example, light-colored wallpapers.

Brickwork should be allowed to dry for a day, prime it, and then sew it up with drywall or wood-based panels so that the surface is a single whole. A block doorway can be sewn up immediately. It is worth knowing that a brick or block wall can damp, so it would be nice to cover the structure with a moisture-repellent compound or lay out a layer of foam or vapor barrier material under the cladding.

The advantages of aerated concrete blocks are obvious: they can be given any shape - an arch, a semi-arch, etc. Bricks are good, but the stability of the corners needs absolute. And when installing interior doors, you need to work with a puncher with effort, because bricks are a durable material. Disadvantages - laboriousness of work.

Summarizing

You can make a redevelopment of your own apartment in such a simple way as changing doorways... The methods presented above are not too expensive both in terms of price and labor intensity. But the appearance will change immediately. And if you carry out the installation with the subsequent canopy of progressive doors, then your own home will be cozy and beautiful.

How to change doorways (by the way, you can even use windows) is up to the owners to decide, and the availability of this or that is described above.

In production renovation works often there is a need to brick a door or window opening. The reason is the transfer of a door or window to another place, or simply sealing an extra transition between rooms. You can safely take this part of the repair into your own hands and in this way save money, since it is quite simple to perform it.

Openings must be laid on a solid foundation.

Preparatory work

Before laying a doorway, you should prepare it appropriately:

• remove the old door and dismantle its parts: door frame, threshold and sealing material;
• if the door stood in the opening of a brick or concrete wall on wooden embedded parts, then they should be knocked out;
• remove a layer of old mortar from the ends of the partition, where the masonry will subsequently adjoin;
• remove the floor covering and part of the screed to the floor slab;
• remove debris and dust.

The doorway must be laid on a solid foundation - a foundation or a floor slab. If the screed under the door has been made recently and with high quality, then it is allowed to put the partition directly on it, in other cases this layer of mortar must be dismantled. Before conducting masonry work from strip foundation buildings, a new waterproofing layer of roofing material should be laid.

In preparation window openings the same operations are performed for the embedding, only instead of the threshold, you need to remove the window sill. During dismantling, it is also better to remove pieces of peeling plaster. Remove all wooden parts from the wall and remove debris.

For masonry, it is recommended to use the same brick from which it is folded building construction... Used material is also suitable, provided that it does not consist of solid halves and does not crumble in the hands. If the construction of the house is concrete or cinder block, then both white silicate and red ceramic bricks will do. For holes in walls made of foam blocks and aerated concrete, brickwork will not work, they are sealed with the appropriate material.

Choosing a mounting method

An important condition for laying openings with bricks is to ensure a reliable connection between the new structure and the old one.

There are two binding methods:

• dressing of seams;
• anchoring.

Ligation of seams with an existing structure is used to seal brick walls. To do this, it is necessary to knock out bricks at the ends of the door opening to a width of at least 12 cm. Niches are formed, where new stones will enter when laying the opening with bricks. If the partition is folded into a half-brick, then it is enough to knock out the finishing halves in every fourth row.

The method of dressing is not very suitable for sealing window openings, because they are made in load-bearing wall, folded in 1.5-3 stones (thickness from 250 mm). Here it is more appropriate to perform anchoring: using a perforator, drill holes in the side ends of the structure and hammer in pieces of reinforcement of a periodic profile there.

The diameter of the connecting reinforcement is from 6 to 10 mm, the depth of immersion in the thickness of the structure is at least 100 mm. Anchoring is performed every 3-4 rows, it is most convenient to do it during the erection of the partition, so that the seams of the new and old masonry coincide. This method is also used for bonding to concrete walls.

Work order

As a rule, when sealing an unnecessary doorway with a brick, the thickness of the partition is 12 cm (half a brick), since this structure does not carry any load, upper part a lintel holds the existing wall. A window in the outer fence can also be laid in half a brick, provided that additional insulation is done.

So that a locked door can carry the load from hanging cabinets or any household appliances, the usual way of laying stones is used - on spoons. In this case, it is necessary to bandage the seams by half or a third of the brick length. Sometimes another method of embedding is used - a one-and-a-half hollow stone with a height of 88 mm is laid with a dressing on the edge. But it should be borne in mind that such a partition will not be able to carry an additional load.

The work is carried out in the following order:

1. Prepare a simple cement-sand mortar, grade M50, using 1 part of cement M400 to 5 parts of well-sifted sand. Another option is to purchase ready-made masonry mix and stir it with water, following the instructions on the bag.
2. Moisten the base and sides of the opening with water. Lay out 1 row of stones near the place of laying, cut the last one to the required size.
3. Gently spread the mortar over a length of 2-3 stones and start laying 1 row. After each brick laid, pull the mortar to its side with a trowel, and then press it down with the next stone.
4. On the end of the last brick, apply the mortar in advance and put it in place. To maintain the thickness of the seam, stones must be tapped.
5. Fill the entire opening in this way, focusing on the plane of the existing wall. Do not allow the masonry to protrude or fall through, for which you constantly check with the wall, applying a flat bar to it. Another option is to pull on the mooring line and navigate along it.

In a situation when it is necessary to pass heating pipes made of PPR, metal-plastic or metal through the gap to be laid, steel sleeves (cases) are laid in the partition. Their diameter must be larger than the outer dimension of the pipe. The length of the case is selected so that its ends extend beyond the surface of the masonry by 2-3 cm.

After the mortar has solidified, the structure must be revetted so that the bricked door does not externally differ from the rest of the walls. Choose the appropriate type of finish - plaster, drywall or other material.

Window, door and other openings in clutch of bricks and stones of the correct shape are covered with lintels of various designs.

In the general case, jumpers are also subdivided into non-bearing and carriers.

Load bearing lintels perceive the load only from their own weight and the section of the masonry located above it.

Supporting lintels, in addition to the weight of the masonry above it, the load from the overlap resting on this section of the masonry is experienced.

The most effective and reliable lintels are obtained from precast concrete elements and from rolled metal (angles, channels, I-beams, rails, usually connected by steel strips by welding). The designs of these jumpers are shown in Fig. 13, 14 and 15.

Rice. 13. Structures of lintels made of precast concrete elements: A - for interior walls with two-sided "bearing" load; B - for walls without floor beams; B - with one-sided "bearing" load; G - for openings with a quarter; 1 - bearing bar; 2 - non-bearing timber; 3 - floor beam

Rice. 14. Structures of jumpers, which are taken as rolled metal: A - corner; B - channel; B - I-beam; G - rail; 1 - Brick wall; 2 - strip steel 2x40 mm (after 250 mm)

Rice. 15. Design of lintels made of channels (A) and I-beams (B) with load from the floor: 1 - brick wall; 2 - floor beam

Now about wedge, arched and circular lintels(fig. 16, 17 and 18). They are formed from ordinary bricks, which are laid on the edge. The strength of such lintels is provided by a wedge-shaped seam-lock located in the upper part of the lintel with a thickness of at least 5 mm at the bottom and not more than 25 mm at the top. The lintels are laid from both sides in the direction from the heels to the middle (to the lock) on a mortar with a grade not lower than "25". The bricks in the masonry are shifted in thickness by 1/4 of the brick.

Rice. 16. Wedge bridge: 1 - lock; 2 - heel; 3 - brick on the edge; 4 - brick wall

Wedge and arched lintels allow the largest span of 2 m with a lintel height h = 1.5 bricks, with a rise f = (1/10 ... 1/8) xl (see Fig. 17).

Rice. 17. Arched lintel: 1 - lock; 2 - heel; 3 - brick on the edge; 4 - brick wall

The radial seams of the front row pass through the entire thickness of the lintel, the normal and vertical seams of the other rows are shifted relative to each other by at least 1/4 of the brick.

The height of the circular bulkhead is also taken as h = 1.5 bricks, i.e. 38 mm, span no more than 3 m (see Fig. 18).

Rice. 18. Circular bridge: 1 - lock; 2 - heel; 3 - brick on the edge; 4 - brick wall

Wedge, arched and circular lintels are placed on the formwork. Timing of lintel stripping depends on the outside air temperature and is shown in the table.

Ordinary brick lintels with a span of up to 2 m are placed on a solution of grade not lower than "25", and more than 2 m in length - on a solution not lower than grade "50". If the width of the wall is less than 1 m, the lintel is laid across the entire wall.

Ordinary lintels are reinforced with steel wire 6 mm in diameter, which is located in a 30 mm layer of mortar of grades "25" ... "50" (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. Ordinary brick lintel: 1 - fittings; 2 - brickwork; 3 - cement mortar

Such lintels are allowed to be erected without calculation with the opening width L< 2 м, если балки перекрытия над ними располагаются на расстоянии >L / 3 from the top of the lintels and the load from them is less than 1 t / m.

The number of reinforcement, the grade of the mortar and the number of rows of masonry in the lintels that do not meet the above requirements, as well as the conditions shown in Fig. 19 must be calculated in advance.

In the walls of lightweight masonry, the systems of engineers Popov and Weinstein, which are presented in the article"Brick walls: materials, types, designs", ordinary lintels are made of solid brickwork.

The device of the partition is perhaps one of the easiest types of work that relate to brickwork... You will not need to suffer with corners and constantly look at the plumb line, since when laying the partition, you just need to strictly adhere to the markings.

In order to lay out a brick partition, in addition to brick and mortar, you also need reinforcement or mounting plates so that you can link your partition with the main bearing walls.

Before proceeding with the construction of the partition, you need to correctly markup. Correct markup is half the battle. You need to draw the boundaries of the partition horizontally, that is, on the floor and vertically, that is, on the walls. In order to make the markings even, you can use a long spirit level to draw verticals, as well as long wooden bars with which the marking lines will turn out to be even.

After you make the markup, not sparing time for this, it will be necessary to lay out the first row strictly along it.

All other rows are laid out strictly along the cord, which must be fixed just above the row that you are going to lay out. At both ends of the cord must be tied with a nail, and the nails themselves can be fixed with bricks. Make sure the cord is taut and free from sagging.

Lay the vertical line strictly along the marking line, and stick the line horizontally.
If there is a doorway in the partition, then check its width with a tape measure so that after you have entered the door frame without any problems. Using a spirit level or a plumb line, control the verticality of the edges of the opening so that they do not fall left and right.

The partition must be tied to walls that run perpendicular to it. To do this, you can use cut reinforcement, which is driven into the wall and hidden under the mortar of the partition. Reinforcement can be driven in every 4-5 rows. Mounting plates can be used for tie-downs instead of reinforcement.

As a lintel over the future door, you can use both a concrete block and a thick wooden beam.