Calculation of materials

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Calculation of the cost of work

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Layout example 9x7 m for calculation	Structural scheme
		1. Gas silicate block d = 400mm; 2. Facing brick d = 120mm; 4. Air gap d = 20-50mm; 5. Reinforced concrete belt h = 200mm; 6. Extrusion insulation d = 30-50mm; 7. Wooden beams d = 150-250mm; 8. Metal roofing; 9. The foundation is slab monolithic with block walls h = 1.8m;

Gas silicate wall with brick facade

Gas silicate masonry

Despite the fact that aerated concrete blocks are being promoted as very technologically advanced and energy efficient construction material, their use is justified only if the manufacturer's recommendations are strictly followed and the purchase of a high-quality product is sure to be: Beston, Hebel, Wehrhahn, Hess, Ytong, preferably with the involvement of certified installers.

Compared to other stone blocks, autoclaved aerated concrete blocks are characterized by an increased and uniform micropore structure throughout the block body, which predetermines their excellent thermal protection parameters, as well as "breathing" ability.

In terms of fire resistance, sound insulation, and energy efficiency, the autoclave gas silicate block is many times ahead of ceramic brick.

By current standards, a single row is enough for the central area. outer wall from aerated concrete 400 mm thick.

External finishing aerated concrete walls should not block the outlet of water vapors from rooms to the street. For this reason, it is unacceptable to paint aerated concrete walls with gas-tight compounds, revet them with a sand-cement mixture, and cover them with foam plates.

At the moment, some manufactures make autoclaved aerated concrete blocks (Hebel®, Ytong®, Beston®, Hess®, Wehrhahn®) with small dimensional deviations (± 1 mm), which are recommended to be laid on a special adhesive mortar.

The masonry made according to this technology is characterized by minimal thermal conductivity, because “cold bridges”, formed by interbrick joints of a sand-cement mixture, disappear, besides, the costs of laying aerated concrete blocks are reduced by approximately 20-30%.

Adhesive mortar for gas silicate block is sold at twice the price of conventional cement binder, with five to six times less consumption.

When installing walls made of aerated concrete blocks, it is necessary to link many building features and rules, otherwise, instead of reducing material costs, it is really possible to get too cold, damp, or simply dangerous walls.

• By technical description, it is necessary to reinforce the platforms under the windows and the platforms for supporting the lintels, as well as the next four to five rows of aerated concrete blocks, with steel rods.
• A substandard or slightly protruding block can be sharpened with a grinder to the required size at its location.
• In order to lay the reinforcing rods, grooves are made along the top of the wall with a groove cutter in thickness and depth of 30x30 cm, which, when installing the reinforcement, are rubbed with an adhesive solution for gas silicate blocks.
• The installation of the initial row of aerated concrete blocks should be approached especially responsibly, specifying the level of horizontal and vertical blocks during work.
• It is quite possible to plan autoclaved aerated concrete, mill, saw on wood, gouge, drill in a construction site.
• On the last row of gas silicate blocks, in the board formwork preparation, a reinforced reinforced concrete screed is made, with a thickness of 200 mm. On the outer surface, the mortar fill is insulated with a 50-mm strip of extruded expanded polystyrene.

Front brick facade

The simultaneous use of a layer of ceramic bricks and aerated concrete blocks in the facade structure gives a rather effective composition, which combines traditional style and know-how in terms of heat-saving materials.

Facing brick is the most famous masonry material for building a dwelling, which, in addition to its rich appearance, has high (up to hundreds of freeze-thaw cycles) frost resistance and low (about six percent) water absorption, which explains the long period of operation brick buildings... Among the facing ceramic bricks, besides the standard ones, there are glazed, figured and clinker bricks.

Nowadays, facade bricks of all kinds of textures (chipped, corrugated, smooth, rough) and profiles (beveled, wedge-shaped, rounded, rectangular), as well as colors (from white-yellow to chocolate) are produced, which helps to embody any innovative artistic ideas.

• The front wall is folded into a half-brick on a sand-cement binder, with laying, after 4-5 rows of spoons, a butt row;
• From ceramic bricks to aerated concrete bearing wall it is separated by a gap of 2-5 cm, along the entire height of the floor, for natural ventilation, with the device of inlet and outlet openings in the lower and upper levels of the front masonry.
• Since there is a possibility of cracks, it is not recommended to tie up the facade and aerated concrete components of the wall with rigid metal nets laid in the intervals between the rows.
• Having laid 2-3 rows of gas silicate blocks, the aerated concrete and face masonry is coupled using a fiberglass mesh, while maintaining a ventilated gap through the intervals of the fastening mesh.

Slab-block concrete foundation with precast-block tape

The precast slab base is made over the entire area of ​​the structure in the form of a solid concrete slab, on which standard reinforced concrete blocks are placed.

This type of foundation is used in individual housing construction to form the basement level of a house, with heterogeneous geo-bases: peat bogs, reclaimed, bulk, in the case of a low groundwater level. In water-saturated areas, it is advisable to arrange the vertical parts of the foundation using a monolithic method, using hydro-protective measures, for example, impregnation, coating, pasting.

At the same time, the prefabricated block diagram of the side walls of the foundation, according to the already made monolithic slab, is indispensable in the case of a limited construction period, as well as when performing a "zero" cycle in the winter season.

Brief bookmark technology slab foundation side parts in the form of precast-block concrete tape:

• At the beginning, land is dug up to the design level.
• On the prepared substrate, crushed stone is poured, 40 ... 60 mm in size, with a layer of about 20 cm, and carefully compacted.
• A cement-sand screed is installed, 5 cm high.
• The waterproofing membrane is folded out with a release along the edges up to 200 cm, in order to further moisture protection of the sidewalls of the foundation.
• In order to protect the waterproofing material from possible cuts during reinforcement, another layer of cement-sand mortar, 40 mm high, is applied to the moisture insulation, along the borders of which the formwork is fixed along the height of the foundation slab.
• The produced slab is reinforced with two rows of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12-16 mm of class AII-AIII with cells of 200x200mm.
• For a slab foundation, an exceptionally high-quality concrete solution, grade not lower than M300, supplied by a mixer, is suitable.
• The setting period for concrete mortar, when it is necessary to lay out the foundation walls from FBS blocks, is from 28 days in the warm season.
• The laying of building blocks is carried out relative to the center lines, in directions diverging at 90 °, controlling the alignment with geodetic equipment. Ordinary blocks are directed by a loader onto a “bed” of mortar.
• The installation begins with the installation of the block-markers of the house and on the crosshairs of the center lines. The placement of linear blocks is started only after the alignment of the position of the reference blocks in terms of level and horizon.
• On top of the FBS blocks, in the panel formwork preparation, a reinforced concrete screed is arranged, with a height of 20-25 cm.

Timber beam floor

Since ancient times, coniferous sawn timber (spruce, larch, pine) with a moisture content of 14% has been used as a beam. According to calculations, the most durable log is a timber with an aspect ratio of 7/5, for example, 140 x 100 mm.

In private construction, floors made of wooden beams are traditionally common, due to the simplicity and cost-effectiveness of their construction.

When calculating the material for beams, it is necessary to use tables that determine the correlation between the dimensions of the beams from the distance between the walls and the weight of the load; otherwise, you can start from an approximate calculation that the wide side of the log should be at least 1/24 of the floor length, and the thickness - 5 ÷ 10 cm, with a load of 150 kgf / m² and a step of laying beams of 50 and 100 cm.

If there is a shortage of beams of a given section, bolted boards should be used, while maintaining the overall size accordingly.

Typical nuances of laying wooden beams:

• The gap between the smoke channel and the beams must be more than 40 cm, and the beam beams are taken from the masonry by at least 5 centimeters.
• v wooden log cabins the edges of the beams are cut in the manner of a cone, and then driven into the groove of the last crown to the full depth of the wall log.
• As a rule, in brick-block walls, the end parts of the beams are located in wall niches in which condensation occurs, for this reason, a free gap for ventilation is created between the end parts of the beams and the wall, and with a significant depth of the opening, another layer of thermal insulation is placed.
• The end parts of the beam boards are cut at an angle of about 60 degrees, treated with an antiseptic compound (for example: Aquatex, Dulux, Biofa, Holzplast, Biosept, Tikkurila, Kartotsid, Senezh, Teknos, KSD, Cofadex, Tex, Pinotex) and covered with tar paper, leaving the cut uncovered , to protect against possible mold growth, which occurs when moisture diffuses around the stone wall.
• The installation of the beams is carried out in the following order: first, the final ones, and then, with adjustment by the spirit level, intermediate ones. Lags should start on on wall structure not less than 0.15-0.20 m.

The basement floor is insulated with the installation of a vapor-tight film on top of the insulation layer, the interfloor floor does not need insulation, and the attic floor is insulated with a vapor-tight film under the insulation.

If the question is the loading capacity of wooden floor slabs Basically, it is removed by an obvious increase in the size of the lags and their number, then with anti-noise protection and with resistance to fire, the matter does not look so simple.

One of the options for improving the soundproofing and fire-resistant indicators of wood-beam interlevel floors looks like this:

• To the base of the beams, at 90 ° to them, on elastic brackets, after 300-400 mm, lathing bars are fixed, on which a plasterboard ceiling is attached from below.
• On top of the resulting lattice structure, a synthetic mesh is spread and fixed with a stapler to the beams, on which mineral wool insulation slabs are tightly laid out, such as: Knauf, Isover, Izorok, Rockwool, Izomin, Ursa, 5 centimeters thick, with an approach to the lateral edges of the log.
• In the rooms next floor a layer of chipboard (16 ... 25 mm) is screwed onto the beams with self-tapping screws, after which, the increased density of the mineral wool layer (25 ÷ 30 mm), and again, the chipboard slabs of the "floating" floor are laid out.

Metal tile roof

The roofing material is installed on a rigid frame assembled from lathing laths and rafter legs.

For individual buildings, traditionally, a two or three-span structure with inclined rafters and middle supports is performed.

The distance between the rafters is set within 600 ÷ 900 mm with a rafter section of 5x15 ÷ 10x15 cm; the support ends of the rafter legs are installed on a Mauerlat with a section of 10x10 ÷ 15x15 cm.

In order to reliably release moisture arising from residential premises and to protect metal tiles from possible rust, the total area of ​​the ventilation channels (inflow and outflow) is calculated in a ratio of 1: 100 to the area of ​​the roofing surface.

Today, the Monterrey profile is listed as the sales leader: wave height - 2.3 cm, wave step - 35 cm, produced by many industries (Grand Line, Interprofil, Metal Profile, Poimukate, Pelti ja Rauta, Finish Profiles).

Important points for fastening metal shingles strips:

• Before installing the lathing layer, it is advisable to fix a waterproof film along the rafter beams: Yutavek 115,135, Stroizol SD130, TechnoNIKOL, Tyvek, Izospan, for subsequently insulating the attic space. It is forbidden to use, as waterproofing, vapor-tight coatings, for example, on a bitumen basis.
• On the rafter beams, on the fixed moisture-proof material, bars of 30x50 mm are stuffed, and to them a crate flooring of boards of 100x30 mm, at intervals of 350 mm (for metal tiles Joker, Monterrey). In this case, the distance between the bottom end of the very first sheathing and the midpoint of the next one should be 30 cm, and the first board is placed 18 mm thicker.
• When assembling the lathing structure, in the areas of further attachment of the snow-retaining profile, it is also necessary to lay support bars under the top of the profile.
• Before the flooring of m / tiled coverings, the gutter holders are fixed to the eaves surface or rafter beams.
• The sheets of metal tiles are attached in the deflection of the wave, in the areas of contact with the sheathing preparation.
• To the first lathing bar, which is thicker than the others, sheets of steel tiles are attached to the top of the profile step.
• Cloths bordering the ends of the ramp are attached at the ends of the ramp more often than usual, i.e. on all support bars.
• When installing sheets of metal tiles, the initial sheet is aligned along the transverse cut and the bottom of the slope and suspended on one self-tapping screw to the ridge sheathing board, the same is done with 2-3 sheets adjacent in a row, connecting them to each other and aligning along the line of the cornice, and only after that, the finish is fixed, while spending approximately 6 ÷ 8 pieces of tile screws with rubber gaskets per square meter of the roof.
• Laying sheets of metal tiles is performed, starting from the bottom, from right to left (or from left to right), following the rule that each subsequent sheet closes one wave and the capillary groove of the previous one.

Strip foundation- the most common foundation in our country.

One of the varieties of strip foundations is monolithic. Such a foundation is a reinforced concrete monolithic tape located along the perimeter of the house, and still passes where all the load-bearing walls are located.

A monolithic strip foundation is a solid foundation compared to a foundation made of concrete blocks.

The technology of one of the most economical version of a monolithic strip foundation consists of the following stages:

• Digging a trench with rented mini excavator.
• Installation of a sand base under the foundation and its ramming.
• Laying the reinforced film into the trench so that the water from the concrete does not go into the ground.
• Arrangement of a metal structure from reinforcement.
• Pouring and vibrating concrete.

It is important to understand that the foundation project, which was created on the basis of engineering calculations, is a guarantee and reliability of the foundation. If there is an incorrect foundation of the house, then there will be a great risk of cracks in your country house.

Why is the house starting to crack?

The house cracks due to the fact that at one point the foundation rises (due to the swelling of the soil), and at another point it falls due to the shrinkage of the soil. This is how a fracture occurs in the foundation strip. You can avoid this by applying the required fittings or concrete grade. True, this increases the cost of the foundation. The number, location, diameters and grade of reinforcement depend on the characteristics of the soil and the weight of the house. With the correct calculation of the foundation, you will save money, since you will not need to buy additional materials, or vice versa, you need to buy reinforcement of a higher class for your foundation, you will have to increase the thickness of the foundation walls and take other measures to strengthen the foundation.

Estimate of a monolithic strip foundation without formwork for a house 10x15 meters

A strip foundation is a fairly common building element, which is often impossible to do without. Despite the fact that, unlike the pouring of the main supporting structure, it has a clothed structure - the estimate for the strip foundation is included in the design of the building along with the main foundation. Correct formation of the base for the walls is the key to the stability and safety of the erected building.

The structure's resistance to seismic impact and the amount of bearing resource will depend on the quality of the foundation - the maximum allowable weight that a concrete base can withstand is directly proportional to its strength characteristics. Accordingly, the technological part of this process is very important, especially if it is carried out by a non-professional.

This article will provide you with detailed instructions on how to fill the strip foundation with your own hands. It will allow you to correctly carry out this event without the participation of specialists, thereby saving money on hiring labor - according to statistics, on average, the cost of installation services is about 40% of the total cost of the material.

Tape base

The strip foundation belongs to the category of lightweight supporting structures - its width can start from 25 cm, and total height must be at least 40 cm. These parameters do not allow using it as a basis for walls, which are load-bearing, since it does not have sufficient dimensions to support the total weight of the building.

It should be noted that this type of foundation is a separate type construction works, although at first glance it may seem that the pouring works have a standard structure. First of all, the strip foundation is the rational use of resources - it serves as a lightweight modification of the concrete base when erecting masonry in those places where increased strength is not required.

The device of strip foundations is carried out in cases where the load on the base will be insignificant - fences, interior partitions, etc. It plays the role of a connecting element that unites the masonry into one whole. Tall and bulky structures are not erected on it, however, for the above examples, its presence is quite enough for their stable operation.

The main advantage of this type of foundation is the low cost of consumables - the price of the resources expended is reduced by an average of 65% when compared with the main one. supporting structure... This is a consequence of the reduced thickness and height, which is a consequence of the lightweight structure.

Material selection

This is an important technological process on which the stability and durability of the future structure will depend. An important role in its creation is played by right choice material on which the main strength characteristics will depend. The base of the foundation is a concrete solution, which consists of cement, aggregate and water.

Cement

Most often, for pouring a concrete base, Portland cement of the M400 brand is used - its binding characteristics meet all the necessary standards. Since the main parameter of the foundation is strength, special attention should be paid to the choice of the cement component. Lower grades are also appropriate to use, however, in this case, the mass fraction of cement in the concrete solution should be increased.

Filler

River or quarry sand is used as a filler, which is mixed with cement, as a result of which a concrete solution is formed. Ideally, it is desirable to use clean sand to create a homogeneous structure, however, in this case, the cement consumption will be excessively high, therefore, fine gravel mixed with a sandy component is used to fill the foundation. Also for this purpose, you can use crushed stone or wedge.

Note! The more sand there is in the engraver or crushed stone, the more reliable the foundation will be, but the cement consumption will increase.

Water

The quality of the water, through which the solution will be prepared, also has a certain value - it must be as pure as possible. If there is a large amount of salt in the groundwater, then after pouring and drying, mineral deposits will be released on the surface of the foundation.

Also, do not use excessively dirty water in which there is a high content of clay - this will weaken the structure of the foundation.

Surface preparation

To fill the strip foundation, it is first necessary to dig a trench into which most of it will be immersed. The minimum total height of the foundation should be at least 40 cm, respectively, its lower part should be dug into the ground by about 20 cm.

Parameters such as the width and depth of the trench are determined not only by the size of the foundation itself - the presence of such a factor as preliminary backfilling, which is also called “”, should be taken into account. It is formed from gravel, crushed stone or sand - depending on what material you have on hand. The presence of a pillow prevents the base from tilting under the influence of moisture.

Ideally, the width of the backfill cushion should be greater than the width of the foundation to be poured, but in this case, backfill is acceptable, the width of which will correspond to the parameters of the concrete base. Its thickness is determined by the moisture content and composition of the soil - the minimum allowable value is 20 cm.

Deeper backfilling is carried out if the foundation is poured on an irrigated area or in similar conditions - under the influence of irrigation or groundwater, the ground under the erected structure will get wet and the wall will roll, which will lead to its collapse. It is necessary to determine to what depth the water penetrates into the soil, remove the required amount of soil and carry out backfill to the required level.

Note! Deep backfilling is necessary only if the foundation is poured under a street fence, facing brick or similar structures - for wall partitions indoors, the presence of a deep pillow is optional.

Assembling the formwork

The upper part of the foundation should rise above the ground to a certain height - the minimum allowable value is about 20 cm. To create the necessary gap, a formwork of the required height is assembled above the trench. Since the outer height of the base strip often does not exceed 20-30 cm, and the width is also small, there is no need for reinforced formwork.

As a material for formwork, you can use concrete or cinder blocks, through which the required shape of the future foundation is laid out. Before you start pouring concrete into this type of mold, it is necessary to protect the inner side of the blocks with polyethylene, otherwise the solution will stick to them. Also, as a material for formwork, you can use boards, plywood, fiberboard, etc.

In addition to the even structure of the formwork, it is important to take care of the clamps, which will be responsible for ensuring that it does not “slide off” under the weight of the mortar. Since the dimensions of the foundation are small, there is no need to install any specialized fasteners and spacers, but it is still necessary to reliably support the formwork. The same concrete blocks or wedges can be used as props.

Reinforcement

Despite the small thickness, the strip foundation must be reinforced with the same care as more massive counterparts - under the influence of its own weight, as well as the weight of the structure erected on it, the foundation can crack. As a reinforcement, a structure of reinforcement welded parallel to each other is used - it can include 2, 3 or 4 rods.

The reinforcement should be in the center of the foundation structure, accordingly, its structure should be smaller than the base itself. Directly in the trench, it is attached to metal pins so that the lower part also spills with concrete.

Pouring the foundation

After the preparatory work is completed, you can go directly to the fill.

The technology of the strip foundation device looks like this:

• A relatively flat surface is selected on which the mortar will be mixed - a concrete screed or an iron sheet is suitable. If the mortar will consist of a mixture of sand and crushed stone, you can use a metal construction battle with sides. It is undesirable to knead on the ground, since the presence of earth in the solution will subsequently lead to the formation of voids in the foundation;

• Initially, the filler is filled in - as mentioned above, the higher the mass fraction of sand in it, the stronger the foundation will be. Also, the sandy component has a beneficial effect on appearance the end result is that the gaps between the rubble and stones are filled with sand. If there is little sand in the solution, then there will be many unspilled places and an open structure through which the stone component will be visible;

Note! When mixing sand with rubble or gravel, try to do it evenly. It is not necessary to mix the resulting mixture, it is enough to pre-level the surface of the filler, and the son-in-law evenly pour sand on top - this way, you will avoid the formation of “bare spots” that are difficult to mix with cement in the future.

• Having hammered the battle (working surface) with filler, it is necessary to level the formed pile so that the cement is evenly distributed over its surface. Cement consumption is calculated based on the mass of sand, since stones and crushed stone do not need a binder. The ratio of the mass fraction of sand and cement should be at least 4: 1, if its marking is M400.

Note! If you purchased gravel, which was initially mixed with sand, and it is not possible to determine its mass fraction - calculate the approximate amount of cement “by eye” and mix the solution. A properly prepared mortar should have a characteristic cement color without admixtures of a sandy shade.

• In the total mass of the future solution, a depression is made into which water is poured - do not pour too much water. By and large, moisture is required only to get the cement wet and wet the sand - stone and gravel do not need it. After the water is poured - it is necessary to make sure that it does not leak and flow out of the battlefield - together with the water, the cement will "run away";
• After the water is absorbed, you can start mixing a certain part of the solution and directly pouring it. Thorough mixing is an important part of the technical process - there should be no separate occurrences of clean sand or lumps of cement in the finished mortar. The less liquid there is in the solution, the stronger the structure will be;

• Filling should be carried out in one stage, that is, pour one half of the foundation in the morning, and in the evening the other is undesirable, since you get two separate parts, and not monolithic construction... After a significant part of the foundation in a certain area is poured, it is necessary to create vibration in the thickness of the solution in order to fill the voids. For this purpose, you can use scrap iron;
• In order for the surface of the foundation to be flat, you can stretch the line along the level and use it as a guide. After the end of the pouring process, the surface is leveled with a metal bead or trowel;

Outcome

Correct filling of the base is the key to the stability and reliability of the erected structure. The strip foundation will help you reduce material costs, without losing quality and strength (find out here). In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

Baths construction

The bathhouse has been known in Russia since time immemorial, becoming practically a symbol of our culture. In order for the bath to bring as much benefit and pleasure as possible, it should be equipped according to certain rules.

Ideally, the bathhouse should be built away from the road, but next to the water - at a distance of 15-20 meters and fenced off with a fence or any buildings from prying eyes. The entrance to the bathhouse should be done from the south side - in winter there are fewer snowdrifts on this side, and therefore the bathhouse is easier to operate.

Bathrooms (like saunas) must be built spacious - at least 1.8 sq. meters per person, as well as think over the lighting system.

The most important element of both baths and saunas is heating. Historically, our ancestors used to heat the bathhouse in a black way, that is, there was no outlet pipe in the bathhouse. Nowadays, more and more electric heaters are used, which do not smoke the room, and they do not require an outlet pipe. True, the effect of burning firewood is not felt in this case. Therefore, a wood-burning stove is an ideal option for connoisseurs of a Russian bath - it is unpretentious in maintenance and in the choice of fuel it differs from an electric heater only in the source of heat and the presence of an exhaust chimney.

In the process of building a bath, stone, brick, cement, roofing iron, slate, clay, sand, glass, vapor barrier films and sheets, wood, chipboard and fibreboard, organic and mineral insulation and many other materials can be used.

Construction of a bath from a bar

The most common material for building a bath is still wood (usually round coniferous wood), from which absolutely the entire bath can be made - from the foundation to the roof. Such a bath is not only cheaper, but also ecologically cleaner, and just more pleasant. And the simplest option for the construction of a wooden bath is the construction of a bath from a bar. Let's start with him.

Even before starting the construction of a bath, you need to clearly define what kind of bath you need: a traditional Russian bath, a Finnish sauna, or maybe a Turkish or Japanese one. But here we will talk about the usual Russian bath as the most common option.

Next, you need to decide on the size and location of the bath. Of course, the question of the size of the bath depends on the size and location of the site, and on the financial capabilities of the owner, and on the estimated number of people who will use this bath. The standard version of a small bath is 3.5 by 3.5 m. All the necessary premises will fit in this area: a steam room, a washing room and a dressing room (instead of a dressing room, there can be just a changing room). Again, the standard area ratio of these rooms is 1: 1.5: 2.

The location of the bath on the site is a very important moment, since a mistake can lead to the fact that using the bath will be uncomfortable or it will last much less time than it could.

Of course, it is better to build a bathhouse in the depths of the site and away from the road - and the point here is not only to hide from prying eyes. Firstly, dust and exhaust gases from passing vehicles will fly off the road, which is already unpleasant and also contrary to the purpose of the bath, and secondly, the same transport will damage the structure itself.

Many owners country houses they want to build a bathhouse as close as possible to a river or lake, but it is better to place it at a decent distance from the reservoir - at least 15 meters.

The bathhouse can be erected as a separate structure, or combined with others - summer kitchen, a barn and even attach it to the house: if the waterproofing is installed correctly, then the moisture will not spread to the house.

The technology of building a bath is not very different from building a house. Like any building, the bath starts from the foundation. The easiest way to build a bath is to use the simplest strip foundation. However, for some types of soils, it will not work - you will need pile foundation... Since the foundation is almost the most important part of the bath, it is better to consult with a specialist who will tell you what type of foundation to choose, and to what depth to bury it, and will answer all other questions.

After we have figured out the foundation (or better, of course, before that), it is necessary to resolve the issue with the material from which the bath itself will be built. Conifers - pine and spruce - are ideal for our climate. However, it should be remembered that not any pine or spruce is suitable for the construction of a bath - the durability of the building depends on it.

So, for baths being built in the Leningrad region, it is recommended to choose northern trees - for example, Karelian: they grow in a climate similar to ours, but somewhat slower, from which the wood becomes denser and therefore less moist. But the southern pine is more porous, and therefore after a couple of years the lower crown of the bath may well begin to rot.

For the construction of baths, glued or profiled beams of 50x180 and 150x150 mm are usually used, already ready for quick and accurate assembly of the walls of the building.

First of all, a concrete or brick base is erected, covered with a layer of waterproofing (most often with roofing material), after which they begin to lay the first crown, into which it is necessary to cut in the floor logs and a bar of internal partitions.

The floor should have a slope to the water drain, equipped with a sewerage system and a water lock, so that cold air from the street does not come in.

In the process of building the baths, the bars are placed in the "end tongue" or in the "paw"; it is possible to lay them without a tongue - with the help of wooden or metal pins mounted in the corners or in the middle of the timber. Between the beams, a mezhventsovy insulation made of flax or jute is laid. The roof of the bath is laid in the same way as the roof of the house.

The most important part of the Russian bath is the heater-stove, which should be located as follows: the water tank should be in the washing room, and the firebox - in the steam room. In this case, the wall of the dressing room should also warm up. The heater stove is sometimes replaced with either hot water pipes or special electric heating devices. The stove can be folded by yourself if you have the appropriate skills, but it's easier to buy a ready-made one.

The shelf in the steam room should be wooden, its size can be any - for sitting (50-60 cm), for lying with bent legs (1.5 m) and, of course, for lying with outstretched legs (1.8 m). The length of the shelf depends on the size of the bath itself.

Construction of a bath from logs

About the same General requirements there are also the process of construction and log baths - the oldest and still very widespread type of baths. Although, of course, there are some peculiarities here.

It is very important to choose the right logs here. The ideal diameter of a log for a bath is about 20-25 centimeters: if they are thinner, the room will lose heat, and if they are thicker, it will be very inconvenient to mount them.

Nowadays, you can buy a ready-made rounded log, but you can prepare it for construction yourself.

First of all, the log must be sanded so that its top and bottom in diameter differ by no more than 30 cm, after which the log is sawn.

Further, the logs are lined up in separate crowns, laid horizontally and connected with wooden spikes and arranged in a checkerboard pattern. For window openings it is necessary to select 5 lower rims and 2-3 upper ones, and vice versa for the door ones. At the bottom of the walls of the bath, thicker logs are used, at the top, thinner ones. The upper crowns laid on the foundation should be laid with transverse beams, and the gaps above the foundation are laid with bricks or filled with cement mortar.

A very important point is the insulation of the log bath. The walls of the bathhouse can be dug up, and inside and pasted over with clapboard, which, in addition to having aesthetic properties, also retains heat. As the log house dries up, the gaps between the logs increase, so they need to be processed again - with tow or dry moss.

Construction of a frame bath

A more modern and, perhaps, the simplest and cheapest option for building a bath is the construction of a frame bath. Its one more advantage over a log house is that it does not need to be "defended" for a whole year to shrink - it can be finished immediately and operated.

The general requirements for the construction of a bath are again almost the same as for a bath from a bar or a log, the difference is quite small.

The bath frame is usually made of wooden beam 50x100mm, mineral wool insulation is laid between the inner and outer skin. From the outside and inside, the frame is sheathed with sheet material - OSB or plywood. For interior decoration the bath is used lining, and for the external for - lining, siding or blockhouse, giving the bath the appearance of a log cabin.

Thermal insulation of such a bath is as follows: first, there is an internal cladding (lining of hardwood), then a vapor barrier, then an insulation (mineral wool 100 mm), waterproofing and wind insulation, and finally - an external finishing cladding.

Inside, it is used to insulate the house vapor barrier film with a layer of foil, which should be facing inside the room - the foil will reflect heat, and the bath will warm up faster. The floor and ceiling are insulated with vapor barrier and mineral wool, but in the steam room the floor does not need to be insulated.

Brick bath construction

V recent times owners of country houses are increasingly building brick baths - this, of course, is more expensive, but such a bath is more durable and, importantly, less fire hazardous. Its main disadvantages are that the bath heats up slowly and has a high thermal conductivity, to reduce which the walls are sheathed from the inside with clapboard, and a thick insulating layer is laid between the clapboard and the wall.

The foundation for a brick bath should be very solid: from rubble, concrete or cinder-concrete stone, or also from brick. Sometimes the foundation is made of reinforced concrete, but this is quite expensive.

After the trench is at least 30 cm deep and 25 cm wide under the foundation, a 15-20 cm layer of sand is poured onto its bottom, which is spilled with water and rammed. A layer of crushed stone of about the same thickness is laid on top, backfilling is made and everything is poured with concrete. When the concrete hardens, a layer of roofing material waterproofing is laid on it.

The plinth is built of bricks with a masonry height of 4-5 bricks; ventilation vents must be provided in it.

For masonry walls, solid (red or silicate) brick is used. Masonry is usually made in one and a half or two bricks, and partitions - half bricks.

The upper row of bricks is connected to the lower one with a lime mortar, the thickness of the seam should be 12-15 mm.

Masonry begins with the installation of orders, for which a plumb line is used, a cord is pulled for all rows of masonry and punches are laid out in order.

You should start laying the walls from the corners, for which halves or three quarters of the bricks are used, the gaps that arise are smoothed out with a quarter of the brick.

The first row of bricks is laid across - on the waterproofing of the foundation, after which a lightweight masonry is erected from several walls in half a brick, the openings between which are filled with thermal insulation - a mixture of sawdust, fluff lime or light slag.

When building a brick bath, special attention should be paid to hydro and vapor barrier.

Waterproofing can be of several types:

Painting - in places where moisture penetrates, the walls are coated with bitumen mastic from bitumen with the addition of lime and asbestos;

Oleechnaya - any roll materials (for example, roofing material) are glued to the wall of the house, and all gaps and cracks are sealed and covered up.

For plastering walls, cement-lime mortars are used, containing warm light aggregates - fine slag, expanded clay, pumice. It is desirable to plaster the walls not only from the outside, but also from the inside. But if from the inside the walls are sheathed with clapboard, it is not necessary to plaster them.

The construction and equipment of a bath or sauna requires serious knowledge and skills. Construction North-West Company has significant experience in the construction of such baths - one-story and two-story, according to standard and special designs.