Calculate the required volume of bricks for building a house. Calculation of materials for building a house made of brick and aerated concrete, with a slab monolithic foundation, a wooden beam floor, and an ondulin roof

Let's say you decide to build a house with your own hands. However, before starting construction, it is necessary to calculate the amount of building material. Currently building brick is quite expensive, an accurate calculation will significantly reduce your costs.

A preliminary calculation is necessary in order to be able to purchase material from one batch. This will avoid problems with different shades in different batches.

Note! The use of building materials from different batches will not have the best effect on the appearance of your building. This is due to the fact that it is almost impossible to release fake diamond from clay of the same color in different batches, since both the composition of the clay and the firing temperature may differ slightly.

Below is a table where you can see the correspondence of these parameters.

Table 1

Calculation procedure

Stages

The following steps must be followed:

• To correctly calculate the amount of brick per house, you need to know its dimensions, such as length, width and height.

• After calculating the perimeter of the building, the resulting number is multiplied by the height. As a result, we obtain the area of ​​the constructed surface.
• Next, you need to calculate the area of ​​the window and doorways, subtract the resulting number from the total area.

You still need to decide on the choice of one or another type of stone, which can be:

• Single. Has dimensions of 65 by 120 and 250 mm;

• . It has dimensions of 88 by 120 and 250 mm;

• Double. It has dimensions of 138 by 120 and 250 mm.

Using one-and-a-half or double sand-lime brick M 150, you can build walls much faster, but you should be aware that this can worsen the appearance of the building. The price of double and one-and-a-half is certainly higher than the price of single. Many people think that a single one looks much more beautiful, but ideas about beauty are a rather controversial issue.

To make a more accurate calculation, you need to add to the height of each stone 10 mm. This is the thickness of the seam. You should also add approximately 5% for battle.

table 2

Note! The quantity data in table 2 is indicated without taking into account door and window openings, the dimensions of which are individual.

This instruction will allow everyone to understand how to calculate the amount of brick themselves. There is nothing complicated about this.

Simple example

An example of calculating materials for the construction of a 12 by 12 m house with 2 floors:

• We determine the perimeter of the house. Add up its length and width. We get: 12+12+12+12=48 m;

• We calculate the area. To do this, multiply the perimeter by the height. Let's assume that the height of each floor of our house will be 3m, overall height 3+3=6 m. As a result, the area will be 48*6=288 m 2 ;
• Further steps depend on what kind of masonry you will perform. Let's say we do masonry with 2 stones and cladding with 0.5 stones. From Table 1 we see that the wall thickness in this case will be 640 mm. From Table 2 we see that in this case there are 204 pieces per 1 m 2 ;

Calculation of materials

10:0,0,0,290;0,290,290,290;290,290,290,0;290,0,0,0|5:185,185,0,290;185,290,60,60;0,185,105,105;185,290,144,144|1127:224,144;224,60|1327:160,62;160,114|2244:0,38;0,169;290,199|2144:79,0;79,290;216,290|2417:290,22|1927:217,-20

RUB 1,410,056.0

Only for the Moscow region!

Calculation of the cost of work

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Example of a 10x10 m layout for calculation	Structural diagram
		1. Aerated concrete block d=400mm; 2. Brick cladding d=120mm; 4. Ventilation duct d=20-50mm; 5. Reinforced concrete screed h=200mm; 6. Extruded foam d=30-50mm; 7. Wooden-beam ceilings d=150-250mm; 8. Ondulin sheets; 9. Foundation made of a monolithic concrete slab h=1.8m;

Gas silicate wall with brick facade

Gas silicate masonry

In terms of heat conservation characteristics, acoustic protection, and fire resistance, autoclaved gas silicate significantly outperforms conventional brick.

Compared to other concrete building materials, autoclaved aerated concrete blocks have an increased micropore structure that is uniform throughout the entire volume, which explains their unsurpassed heat-protective parameters, as well as “breathing” ability.

Despite the fact that aerated concrete blocks are promoted as a very convenient to use and thermally efficient structural material, their use is advisable only if you guarantee the purchase of exceptionally high-quality material: Beston, Wehrhahn, Hess, Hebel, Ytong and serious adherence to the manufacturer’s technical specifications, preferably with the involvement of specialists .

Currently, autoclaved aerated concrete blocks (Ytong®, Wehrhahn®, Hebel®, Hess®, Beston®) with small dimensional deviations (in the range of ±1 mm) are sold on the construction market, which can be laid with a special masonry adhesive.

A wall folded in this way has minimal thermal conductivity, due to the fact that there are no “cold zones” formed by sand-brick joints. cement mortar, and, in addition, the costs of installing gas silicate blocks are reduced by an average of a third.

Adhesive for aerated concrete is sold at a price twice the cost of a simple cement binder, with almost five times less consumption.

According to existing standards, it is quite enough for the central region of the country outside wall made of aerated concrete blocks with a cross section of 0.40 m.

The external finishing of cellular concrete walls should not block the diffusion of moisture from the house to the outside. Therefore, it is unacceptable to paint aerated concrete walls with “non-breathable” materials, cover them with foam plastic, or plaster them with cement-sand plaster.

When installing gas silicate walls, it is necessary to coordinate a lot of recommendations and construction subtleties, otherwise, instead of saving on insulation, you can end up with damp, too cold, or unsafe walls.

• According to the technology, it is necessary to lay reinforcement bars in the places under the window sill and the places where the lintels are supported, as well as every 4-5 rows of blocks.
• The installation of the first row of aerated concrete blocks should be treated with particular care, checking the horizontal and verticality of the wall using a level during installation.
• In order to install reinforcing bars, grooves with a thickness and depth of 30 * 30 mm are made along the top of the wall using a wall cutter, which, when laying the reinforcement, are rubbed with an aerated concrete adhesive.
• Gas silicate blocks can be planed, drilled, grooved, sawed with a hacksaw, or milled directly at the construction site.
• Uneven or excessively protruding aerated concrete block you need to adjust it with a plane to the required level at the place of its installation.
• On the last row of aerated concrete blocks, in the formwork preparation, a reinforced reinforced mortar belt is made, 20 cm thick. On the outer surface, the mortar belt is thermally insulated with a 50 mm layer of extruded foam polystyrene.

Facing brick cladding

Brick is obviously the most famous construction material for the construction of a house, which, in addition to its classic appearance, is distinguished by high (up to one hundred periods of freezing and defrosting) frost resistance and low (no more than 6%) water absorption, which sets the long life span of stone households. Among the facing brick products, in addition to standard ones, there are glazed, figured and clinker bricks.

The combination of a layer of facing brickwork and autoclaved aerated concrete in the façade results in a rather harmonious building structure, in which they are linked classic style and modern advances in the field of thermally efficient materials.

Nowadays it is produced facing brick various reliefs (corrugated, chipped, smooth, rough) and profiles (wedge-shaped, rounded, beveled, rectangular), as well as colors (from white-yellow to terracotta), which helps to realize any original artistic ideas.

• Since there is a possibility of the formation of deformation cracks, you should not connect the facing and aerated concrete block masonry with inflexible metal rods embedded in the seams of the masonry.
• The coupling of the front and aerated concrete block walls is done by laying five rows of bricks using a plaster mesh, while maintaining an air gap through the gaps of the reinforcement.
• The facade wall is laid in 1/2 brick on a cement-sand binder, with laying, after 4 rows of spoons, a butt row;
• The main gas silicate wall is separated from the facing brick by a gap of up to 50 mm (along the entire height of the floor) for steam removal, leaving input/output channels in the upper and lower rows of the facing masonry.

Foundation made of reinforced concrete slab and monolithic tape

A solid-slab foundation is made along the boundaries of the house in the form of a single reinforced concrete slab and is practiced in a recessed or non-recessed version.

In the deepening option, a concrete slab acts as the base on which the side parts of the foundation are built, which define the underground floor. At high level groundwater, it is better to construct the vertical parts of the foundation using the method of continuous concreting, using waterproofing measures: coating, impregnation, gluing.

An above-ground slab foundation is used in low-rise buildings, in unstable soils: peat bogs, reclaimed soils, fill soils or highly heaving soils, as well as in waterlogged areas. This foundation is suitable for the construction of garden buildings that do not require a high base and basement.

Based on experience, when the top foundation slab serves as a blank for the floor covering of the 1st floor, and monolithic slab installed above the freezing depth of the soil, there is a need for thermal protection of the soil under the base slab and under the blind area.

The best solution would be to install a heat shield made of extruded polystyrene foam, such as Teplex, Polyspen, Primaplex, Ursa XPS, Styrodur, Penoplex, Styrofoam, Technoplex, because other heat-protective materials (expanded clay granules, granulated foam, glass wool) are soon saturated with moisture, which leads to to a rapid decrease in their heat-protective characteristics in damp soil.

A brief method for laying a slab foundation with vertical parts in the form of an unbreakable concrete ring:

• The first step is to remove the ground to the level specified by the project.
• Crushed stone preparation, fractions 40-60 mm, 20 cm thick, is poured onto the prepared base and compacted tightly.
• Cement-sand filling is carried out, up to 5 cm thick.
• A waterproof membrane with an outlet along the border of 2000 mm is laid out for the purpose of vertical waterproofing of the vertical part of the foundation base.
• For the purpose of protection waterproofing material To prevent possible damage during the installation of the reinforcement structure, a second layer of cement mortar, 4-5 cm high, is applied over the moisture barrier, along the perimeter of which formwork boards are mounted at the height of the foundation slab.
• The slab being formed is tightened from the inside with two meshes of welded steel rods with a cross section of Ø14, type AII (A300), AIII (A400) with cells of 20x20 cm.
• For a solid-slab foundation, only high-quality concrete mixture is used, grade M300, class B22.5, supplied by an automixer.
• With a distance of up to 25 cm from the edges of the slab part of the foundation, the formwork is mounted to the height of the side parts in the form of an unbreakable reinforced concrete ring,
• A reinforcing belt consisting of iron rods number A300 d10-d14 is placed in the completed form for pouring, and concrete is produced.
• The setting time of concrete (when stripping should be done) is, in practice, 4 weeks in warm weather.

Flooring made of wood beams

Wood-beam floors are mainly popular in private construction, due to the convenience and low cost of their installation.

For beam floor Traditionally, lumber from coniferous trees (spruce, larch, pine) with a volumetric moisture content of no more than 12-14% is used. The best beam is a block with an aspect ratio of seven to five, for example, 14x10 cm.

When designing a beam structure, it is necessary to be guided by special diagrams that determine the dependence of the geometry of the beam on the size of the span between load-bearing structures and cargo weight; Otherwise, it is permissible to start from the approximate rule that the height of the beam should be about 0.042 of the length of the floor, and the thickness - 5÷10 cm, with a load of 150 kgf/m² and a lag laying step of 50 - 100 cm.

For possible replacement of logs of the design size, boards bolted together should be used, while maintaining the overall size.

Typical installation points for wood beams:

• Installation of beam beams is carried out in next sequence: first of all, the first and last, and then, with adjustment by spirit level, all the remaining ones. Beams should be placed on the wall no shorter than 15-20 cm.
• The beams are spaced at least 5 cm away from the wall, and the gap between the beams and the smoke duct must be at least 40 cm.
• in log cabins, the edges of the beams are sawed down in the manner of a bell, and then driven into the finished cut of the upper crown to the entire depth of the wall.
• To protect against possible decay that occurs from moisture in the brick environment, the ends of the beams are sawed off at an angle of approximately 60 degrees and treated with an anti-rotting solution (for example: Kartotsid, Aquatex, KSD, Dulux, Senezh, Holzplast, Biofa, Tex, Biosept, Pinotex, Cofadex , Tikkurila, Teknos) and wrap it with roofing material, keeping the end edge open.
• Traditionally, in block-brick walls, the end parts of the beams are located in wall niches where condensation appears; for this reason, between the ends of the joists and the brick, a vent is left for ventilation, and if the niche is deep enough, an additional layer of thermal insulation is placed.

The covering of the last floor is thermally insulated with a vapor barrier membrane installed at the bottom of the thermal protection, the interfloor ceiling is not subject to insulation, and the basement floor is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier film above the insulation.

However, if the question of the structural strength of wood-beam interfloor ceilings In practice, this is solved by the obvious addition of the size of the beams and their number, but with noise insulation and fire protection the situation is not so clear.

A possible method for improving the acoustic and fire safety parameters of timber interfloor slabs is as follows:

• To the base of the beam beams, at an angle of 90 degrees, on damping brackets, after 300-400 mm, metal guides-lathing are mounted, onto which gypsum boards are suspended from below.
• A synthetic fabric is spread over the top of the lattice structure and secured with brackets to the beams, on which mineral fiber boards, such as Ursa, Isomin, Rockwool, Knauf, Isorok, Isover, 50 mm thick, are laid closely, with a rise on the vertical sides of the floor beams.
• In the rooms of the upper level, plywood slabs (1.6...2.5 cm) are mounted on the beams, then a rigid basalt fiber sound insulator (25...30 mm) is installed, and again, chipboard slabs are laid out to prepare the floor.

Euro slate roofing

Euro slate (otherwise called: ondulin, bitumen slate, bituminized slate, soft slate, ondulin slate), is a wavy mineral fiber base, fixed with a distilled bitumen compound and painted with a mineral, UV-resistant pigment. bitumen corrugated sheet is made with various names: Guttanit, Ondura, Corrubit, Aqualine, Bituwell, Onduline, Nuline. Usual sheet sizes: 200x95 cm, weight 6 kg/sheet.

Roofing material installed on a supporting base made of rafter beams and sheathing layer.

When constructing private buildings, a structure of 2.3 spans with inclined rafter beams and internal load-bearing walls is often used.

The interval between rafter beams is usually in the range of 0.60...0.90 m with a rafter cross section of 5x15...10x15 cm; the lower sections of the rafter beams are lowered onto a fixing beam measuring 10x10...15x15 cm.

The main qualities of a Euro-slate roof are its low cost and ease of assembly. Among the noticeable disadvantages, one can cite a rather rapid loss of richness of color, as well as a noticeable flammability of cardboard-bitumen sheets, in comparison with metal tile roofing.

Basic principles for installing a bitumen sheet roof:

• The inter-row overlap of soft slate sheets and the gap between the sheathings are determined by the slope of the roof: if the latter is more than 15°, then the overlap is 17 cm, and the distance between the sheathing boards is 0.30...0.35 meters.
• In order to protect bitumen slate sheets from curling during gusts of wind, their fastening must be carried out from the lower zone of the end part of the roof, opposite to the prevailing wind direction.
• In order to prevent unnecessary layering at the intersections of 4 adjoining sheets, which contributes to the formation of cracks, the overlying layer is laid out from the middle of the first sheet of the underlying level.
• Euro slate sheets are attached along the bottom line to each upper half-wave, along two middle battens - with a wave through, and the upper edge is covered with an overlap of the overlying corrugated sheet or a ridge part. To fix each sheet, about twenty roofing nails are enough: size -73.5, Ø3.0 mm or self-tapping screws (length -65.0, Ø5.5 mm) with neoprene washers.
• The row overlap of corrugated sheets must be done in 1 wave, however, when the roof slope is less than 10 degrees. - in two waves.
• Strengthening of the ridge parts is carried out in the direction of laying the bitumen slate sheets, overlapping by 20 cm, with self-tapping screws screwed into each top of the wave of the underlying wavy sheet.
• To protect and decorate the end zones of the roof, wind profiles are used, the installation of which is carried out from the corner above the eaves, with an overlap of 0.2 m.

Calculation of materials

10:0,0,0,290;0,290,290,290;290,290,290,0;290,0,0,0|5:185,185,0,290;185,290,60,60;0,185,105,105;185,290,144,144|1127:224,144;224,60|1327:160,62;160,114|2244:0,38;0,169;290,199|2144:79,0;79,290;217,290|2417:290,22|1927:217,-20

RUB 1,195,445.0

Only for the Moscow region!

Calculation of the cost of work

Do you want to find out how much it costs to build your house and choose contractors?

Place an express application and receive proposals from construction professionals!

Example of a 10x10 m layout for calculation	Structural diagram
		1. Foam concrete block d=300mm; 2. Brick cladding d=120mm 3. Basalt insulation d=50mm; 4. Ventilation duct d=20-50mm; 5. Reinforced concrete screed h=200mm; 6. Extruded foam d=30-50mm; 7. Floor panel; 8. Sheets of corrugated sheets; 9. Foundation prefabricated block tape h=1.8m;

Masonry made of foam concrete blocks with a brick facade and internal thermal insulation

Masonry made of foam concrete blocks

Currently, foam concrete is very popular, economical and safe for health. wall material, which, compared to other brick blocks, has increased vapor conductivity and microporosity.

According to existing standards, for the middle area, a single-layer external wall made of foam concrete with a cross-section of 0.40 m with an external glass wool thermal insulation, a layer of 50 mm, is sufficient.

Puttying of masonry made from foam concrete blocks should be done only after 6-9 months (and sometimes even after a year), due to the strong shrinkage of foam concrete - up to 3 mm per meter of masonry and inevitable cracking of the plaster, for this reason, for prompt interior finishing of foam blocks houses, the use of plasterboard or gypsum fiber false panels is acceptable.

In terms of soundproofing, fire protection, energy efficiency indicators foam concrete block outperforms ceramic brick many times over.

The facade cladding of foam block walls should not block the movement of water vapor from the house to the street. In this regard, it is undesirable to finish foam block walls with foam boards, plaster them with sand-cement mortar, or paint them with film-forming compounds.

Due to problems in the manufacturing process, foam concrete blocks (vs. gas silicate blocks) are usually not produced with sufficient accuracy, as a result of which they are laid on ordinary mortar. In turn, the presence of significant seams of the mortar mixture between foam concrete blocks, along with an increase in material costs, contributes to the formation of cold “bridges” and a deterioration in the thermal insulation parameters of the wall.

When installing foam block walls, it is important to consider big number technological aspects and requirements, otherwise, instead of reducing costs for thermal insulation, you will actually end up with very cold, wet, or simply cracked walls.

• The installation of the bottom row of foam concrete blocks must be approached as seriously as possible, monitoring the verticality and horizontality of the masonry using the spirit level during work.
• An uneven or slightly protruding foam concrete block must be trimmed to the required size at the location where it is installed.
• To install reinforcing bars, grooves with a depth and width of 30 * 30 mm are made on the surface of the blocks with a circular saw, which, when installing the reinforcement, are filled with an adhesive solution for foam concrete blocks.
• It is quite possible to mill, drill, groove, plane, or saw with a hand saw right on the construction site for blocks made of foam concrete.
• According to the technology, the support zones of the lintels and the zones under the windows, as well as the next four to five rows of blocks, need to be laid with reinforcing mesh.
• On the last row of foam concrete blocks, in the panel formwork preparation, a reinforced mortar screed, 20-25 cm thick, is produced. On the outer side, the reinforced concrete belt is thermally shielded with a 5 cm layer of extruded polystyrene foam.

Brick finish

The most ancient wall material for the construction of a home is, undoubtedly, facing brick, which, apart from the wealthy appearance, is characterized by significant (up to 200 kg/sq.cm) strength and low (less than 6%) moisture absorption, which explains the long life cycle stone households. In addition to the usual ones, facing brick products include clinker, figured and glazed bricks.

Currently in production face brick various textures (corrugated, chipped, rough, smooth) and profiles (beveled, rounded, rectangular, wedge-shaped), as well as colors (from light yellow to dark brown), which helps to realize any original artistic ideas.

• WITH outside, on the foam concrete wall, using polymer anchors, basalt fiber thermal protection slabs (for example, Isover, Isorok, Ursa, Knauf, Izomin, Rockwool), with a cross-section of 50 mm, are tightly hung, on top of which a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane (Izospan, Tyvek, Yutavek) is laid.
• Every 2 rows of blocks, a coupling of facing and foam concrete walls is arranged by laying bendable galvanized strips or soft fiberglass mesh reinforcement, due to the fact that the facing and foam block wall parts have an unequal degree of shrinkage.
• Brickwork is done in rows of spoons on a cement-sand mortar, alternating every 4-5 rows of spoons with a bonded row.
• Since there is a danger of shrinkage cracks, it is not recommended to connect foam block and brickwork with rigid reinforcing bars laid in the seams of the walls.
• From the front wall, the main wall made of foam blocks, with an external thermal insulation screen, is separated by a gap of at least two centimeters (along the entire height of the floor), to remove wet steam, with supply and exhaust openings at the top and bottom points of the front masonry.

Block-prefabricated strip foundation

The blocks differ by type: FBP - hollow foundation blocks, FBV - with a cutout, FBS - solid. As a rule, foundation blocks are made with a height of up to 0.65 m, the horizontal size varies in the range of 900-2400 mm, the width is fixed at 30,40,50,60 cm.

During production strip foundation on non-heaving bases, it is quite possible to lay concrete blocks directly on the compacted base of the soil.

The use of a certain type of FBS block follows from the thickness of the external structures of the house. For low-rise construction A reinforced concrete block width of 300 or 400 mm is sufficient. Section of FBS blocks m.b. thinner than the outer walls of the building, since they have a much greater load capacity.

On non-heaving soils, it is permissible to lay building blocks without row reinforcement, provided that reinforced tape 0.10-0.20 m high with reinforcing mesh is poured below and above them.

Reinforced concrete blocks are considered a classic building component, which allows you to quickly create the foundation of a private house.

To increase the area of ​​the foundation base, in order to thereby reduce possible movements of the continental soil, FBS blocks should be mounted on pre-assembled foundation supports.

The choice of FBS blocks as a material for making the foundation is often motivated by the possibility of year-round construction or time limits.

In situations where the characteristics of the underlying layer are not clear, it is better for peace of mind to install a monolithic reinforced concrete screed instead of FL blocks.

Today, a foundation made of reinforced concrete elements, in terms of a set of basic properties, including: resistance to movements of the geobase and cost-effectiveness, is inferior to another type - a monolithic reinforced foundation.

• The laying of foundation pads begins from the outer corner of the building, and first the FL blocks are laid under the outer walls, and only then for the inner ones.
• FBS blocks are placed on crushed stone preparation or laid foundation supports with ligation, which are joined with sand cement mixture.
• The assembly of finished blocks is carried out relative to the corners, along walls diverging at right angles, controlling the alignment using an optical theodolite. Individual reinforced concrete blocks are placed with a load lifter on a “bed” of masonry mixture.
• Laying should begin by placing guide blocks in the corners of the building and at the intersections of the axes. The placement of wall blocks begins only after checking the position of the outer blocks in plan and height.
• Geometry in plan is checked by measuring the linear size of the sides of the house and the size between opposite corners, and the altitude level is checked by a spirit level or level.
• Windows for launching pipelines into the zero level are implemented by making a niche between the blocks, with further sealing with concrete.

Prefabricated reinforced concrete floor

For the installation of interfloor ceilings in buildings with brick walls As a rule, reinforced concrete hollow-core panels are used.

During construction low-rise building, in most cases, panel products of the PC, PNO brand are used, with dimensions: length from 2100 mm to 6300 mm, thickness 0.16 ÷ 0.22 m and width 0.99 ÷ 1.19 m.

Due to technology prestress reinforced concrete, factory-produced slabs, are characterized by a large margin of safety, in comparison with floors made on site in monolithic form, as well as stability of technical parameters, with a cheaper cost and quick erection of the constructed floor.

Unlike cast reinforced concrete floor, reinforced concrete hollow-core panels are distinguished by good sound insulation properties.

Some points of laying reinforced concrete slabs:

• Before laying the floors, look at the spirit level at the elevation marks of the load-bearing surfaces of the purlins and masonry, which should lie in the same plane: the spread in the marks can be within 1.0÷1.5 cm, if necessary, the load-bearing plane is adjusted with a sand-cement mixture .
• The slabs are lowered by a truck crane onto a cement-sand bed; slight movement is done manually, before the slings are removed; if a discrepancy in levels with adjacent slabs is detected by more than 5 mm, the product is removed, the mortar bed is replaced and re-laid.
• Immediately after alignment of the ceiling, the mounting lugs are welded with wall anchors and with lifting fasteners of adjacent products, and the interpanel cracks are sealed with a cement mixture to the full thickness of the reinforced concrete panel.
• To compensate for structural movements, there must be a gap of up to 5 cm between the masonry and the supporting area of ​​the floor panel, and at the same time, to protect against freezing, it is worth inserting polystyrene foam insulation into this gap.
• In order to thermally protect the floors in winter, it is necessary to fill the cavities in the end sections of hollow-core floors with expanded clay-concrete mixture to a depth of 120÷200 mm.

Roofing made of profiled metal

Compared to metal tile roofing, the main advantages of corrugated roofing are ease of installation and minimal costs.

Corrugated sheet material is sheets of trapezoidal profiled metal, with a film paint coating, which are manufactured under brands such as NS18, N57, N44, S-21, B-45, NS35, MP-35, N60, NS44, where the numbers indicate the height of the corrugation .

The material used for the roof is a profiled sheet with a corrugation height of at least 2 cm to obtain the required load capacity and economical use of sheathing boards. In this case, the permissible slope of the roof slope is considered to be at least 1:7.

The roof covering is laid on a rigid structure consisting of rafters and sheathing preparation.

For private buildings, a two or three-bay design with middle supporting walls and inclined rafters is usually used.

The interval between the rafter legs is usually made in the range of 0.60÷0.90 m with the standard size of the rafter beams being 50x150÷100x150 mm; the lower ends of the rafter legs are lowered onto a fixing beam measuring 10x10÷15x15 cm.

Standard instructions for installing corrugated sheets:

• In situations where warm attic spaces are built, roofing based on corrugated sheets, like every other metal roofing surface, requires the presence of an under-roof moisture-proofing film, such as: Stroizol SD130, TechnoNIKOL, Yutavek 115.135, Tyvek, Izospan, which prevents condensed water vapor from flowing onto the heat insulator .
• The moisture-proofing film is laid in horizontal strips, from bottom to top, with a sag between the rafters of about 2 cm and an overlap of 10-15 cm between the strips, with further gluing of the joints with adhesive tape.
• To eliminate unnecessary horizontal joints, the longitudinal component of the corrugated sheet is made equal to the shoulder of the roof slope, plus 20÷30 cm, taking into account the lower overhang.
• The interval between the bars of the sheathing preparation is set by the section of the profile and the slope of the roof: when the latter is more than 15-17 °, and the profile grade is NS-8-NS-25, then the installation step of the sheathing is selected 0.4 meters, and for the profile grades NS-35- NS-44 - will be 70-100 cm.
• Installation of corrugated sheets of profiled flooring should be done from the eaves zone of the side of the roof, opposite to the prevailing wind direction, in order to avoid lifting them under wind loads.
• The corrugated sheets are fixed to the battens with self-tapping screws, size 30x4.8 mm, with rubber gaskets, in the lower half-wave, and the ridge corners, on the contrary, in the raised zone of the wave. Along the eaves line, fastening occurs at all deflections of the corrugated sheet, and the consumption of screws is up to 8 units. per 1 m2 of roofing surface.
• The lateral overlap of profiled sheets must be done in one wave, and when the roof slope angle is less than 11÷12 degrees - in 2 waves.