Modern technologies for building houses. Turnkey construction of country houses
To begin with, let's focus on such a popular building material today as aerated concrete.
Aerated concrete is good as insulation - it evens out the humidity in the room, absorbs and removes excess (with proper exterior finishing), if necessary, releases it into the room; but due to its porosity, and therefore the ability to absorb moisture, it has poor frost resistance. When moisture freezes, it expands - a property of water familiar to us from childhood, and when moisture expands, the structure of the material breaks down. There are many such cycles of freezing and thawing during the winter - the temperature passes through 0. Aerated concrete has a frost resistance of about 50 cycles (F50-F75). There is a dew point in the wall - where the temperature goes from positive to negative, so it turns out that the service life of a house made of aerated concrete is not long if it is not protected from external influences.
Therefore, biodegradation must be rapid to have social value, otherwise it is purely an academic exercise. It is measured by determining the evolution of organic carbon, which is then related to the theoretical value obtained in the case of complete conversion.
The remaining 10% is biomass plus possible error measurements. “Suitable for collecting moisture.” Possibly a false statement. Biodegradable bags for the differentiated collection of wet waste have been used for many years both in Italy and in Europe. Exactly this great application biodegradable and compostable plastics. So, the statement is true and can be circumspect. In any case, the environmental sustainability of the product is high today. Indeed, when a product becomes an instrument of a “differentiated collection”, i.e. makes recycling possible or easier, then the stability of the system as a whole is obvious.
Ideally, use aerated concrete as insulation so that the entire load is borne by the frame. Pay attention to how most urban high-rise buildings are built - a monolithic frame made of reinforced concrete, which carries the entire load, and facade walls laid with low-density aerated concrete (do not bear any load), which are additionally protected by stone wool. A facade is installed outside (ceramic granite, brick) with a ventilated gap (ventilated facade). A monolithic frame made of reinforced concrete is not difficult to integrate into walls made of aerated concrete blocks and in private low-rise buildings.
The analysis shows how the leap from recycling can improve overall sustainability. Industrial composting and home composting. We are going to order it to find out its properties and capabilities. Our homemade composting tests were done in "garden" composters, where the material lasts for several months.
This was, however, a period of months, not a week. The "eco" package has just arrived from the supermarket. Notice the two things written above: “100% biodegradable” and “suitable for moisture collection.” Both things are probably wrong. Find these new thoughts on the blog. We lack advertising in many things; perhaps the place where the worst can happen is in something called “sustainability.” What is sustainable and what does not always depend on the eyes of the believer. Without going too far into this area, we've recently seen 'eco' bags in supermarkets.
In order for a house made of aerated concrete to serve for a long time and not begin to collapse, it must be insulated from moisture (rain, snow) and the dew point (i.e., the point inside the wall where the temperature changes from positive to negative) must be removed from the aerated concrete. This can be done in one way - insulate the walls of the house from the outside and install a ventilated facade.
Polyester is usually obtained from petroleum. Thus, in all good faith, it cannot be defined as an "ecological" or "sustainable" material. Search the Internet, you will find many praises for this material for its biodegradability. However, the convenience means that it leaves no obvious residue when composted; or it disintegrates into tiny particles.
So there is no evidence that it can be called "biodegradable" as we find fabricated on bags and somewhere on the Internet. It is unclear why these rules should be hidden from the public as if they were state secrets. Essentially, the packaging compostability test is carried out in a very “stressed” state, that is, at 50 degrees and controlled humidity, in the presence of no more than 1 wt.% of the Test Product. The remaining 99% is organic substrate.
In this case, you need to adhere to a simple construction rule that is valid for any type of house (rub, wood, frame, brick):
The vapor permeability of materials should increase towards the outer surface of the wall. This means that each subsequent layer of the wall pie should allow air to pass through no worse, and, ideally, better than the previous one.
These conditions require that at least 90% of the product be compostable after 3 months. The compostability test is carried out using a sieve with a 2 mm mesh. That is, what happens if you throw it into your home compost or municipal composting facility? The plant is 40 degrees and receives much higher speeds than what you can get in a traditional compostor. The fruit disappears overnight; fibrous materials disappear in no more than 48 hours. You see it here in all its glory.
Here is a shredded bag placed in the composting chamber. And here are the results after a week of accelerated composting. In this picture you see a number of things: "good" compost made from cooking scraps is a rough mass in the center. You see a mechanical agitator, and if so, notice the piece of uncomposted bag coming out of the mass. Moreover, this compost stinks; what is abnormal with this compost. After a week, the material of the bag remained more or less intact, although it changed color, becoming darker.
There is humidity in the room due to human activity. Largely, Construction Materials have the ability to absorb moisture. If we do not ensure the possibility of removing excess moisture from them, for example, we line the outside walls of aerated concrete houses with expanded polystyrene, EPS; or install OSB boards on frame house outside (all these materials have practically zero vapor permeability), then we get condensation and corresponding negative consequences for the entire structure - from deterioration in heat-shielding properties (after all, when wet, the thermal conductivity of materials increases) to gradual destruction. Basically, polystyrene foam cladding is used for plastering houses (the so-called wet facade) or when installing thermal panels (expanded polystyrene with glued clinker tiles) - but these technologies are unacceptable for such a hygroscopic material as aerated concrete.
However, it is clear that this material is another issue associated with household organic waste. You don't have to throw these bags into the general household compost, you'll probably find them again, more or less intact%2. The building's very thick walls and small windows, which were raised to provide enough thermal inertia to keep the temperature tolerable even in warm weather the weather in this place. I was about fifteen years old when my father, an architect, received advertising materials from a company that made insulated panels, something new at that time.
Moisture in aerated concrete that comes from the room (and installing a vapor barrier inside will negate the advantage of aerated concrete as a “breathing” material capable of creating a comfortable microclimate) or in the case of poor protection from external influences (rain, snow) will expand when frozen and break the structure of aerated concrete, which, after a certain period of time, will lead to a loss of the load-bearing capacity of the walls.
Among the various items was a shoebox-sized case model made from insulating foam. At that time, the oil crisis of the 70s was still imminent. There was a debate in these magazines about whether the insulation of houses was really good. A certain stream of thought argued that this was counterproductive. Over time, this trend seems to have been overcome, and today it is generally accepted that the thermal insulation of walls is always good. However, it should also be said that detractors of the concept had interesting points, especially in the assertion that not only heat transfer must be taken into account, but also the thermal inertia of buildings.
The following solution for wall insulation will be optimal low-rise building from aerated concrete:
1. no vapor barriers or insulation from the inside - with a vapor barrier you will negate the positive qualities of aerated concrete as a humidity regulator, and if you install insulation inside, you will allow the walls to freeze deeper - you will move the dew point closer to the internal contour of the house.
He argued that a massive and lightly insulated building could be more comfortable than a light and well-insulated building. Today this debate has largely disappeared, but the problem of thermal inertia remains underdeveloped and is mentioned in at least most of the documents that can be found on the Internet. An example of the lack of attention in this matter is the question, should insulating panels be located inside or outside the walls? On this moment two different installers told me with absolute certainty that it is obvious that the panels should be on the outside or that they should be on the inside.
2. if it is necessary to insulate the walls with a layer of 100 mm, then on the outside of the aerated concrete we vertically attach a sheathing made of antiseptic timber 50x50 mm with a pitch of 580 mm (the size is 1.5-2 cm less than the width of the insulation) and install the first layer of insulation (stone wool) 50 mm thick. If it is enough to insulate the walls with 50mm stone wool, then we immediately move on to point 3.
In some locations, leaking from the outside may be easier, but requires scaffolding. On the contrary, internal insulation can cause problems due to furniture, electrical systems, radiators, etc. but the point that counts little concerns thermal inertia. For heat transfer calculations, it is true that the fact that insulation is inside or outside does not change anything. But unless the house is brick, stone or cement is thin enough to heat the house with insulation outside it, the walls also need to be heated, which takes some time due to their thermal mass.
In other words, if you come into a cold house that is insulated from the outside, it takes time because you turn on the heating when the temperature reaches the desired level. You probably noticed this if you tried to heat an old stone house. It will take a long time before the temperature reaches comfortable levels.
3. We make a horizontal sheathing with the same pitch from a 50x50mm bar and install a second layer of 50mm insulation.
4. install wind protection - a vapor-permeable membrane (releases moisture and prevents the insulation from blowing through). Remember: if in windy weather at low air temperatures you wear only a sweater, you will be cold, but throwing on a windbreaker will make you warm. But if this windbreaker is made of synthetics and does not breathe, then soon the sweater will become damp and you will freeze again.
The inside of the house heats up much faster. It's much more like wooden mountain huts, which are essentially made in a way that is probably made to warm up quickly. There are other differences too, for example the inside of the house is much more sensitive to drafts and air currents and you must be careful to manage ventilation effectively to avoid losing the benefits of insulation, as well as avoiding problems with internal contamination.
If you just look at winter heating, a house with low thermal inertia, that is, with internal insulation, has advantages over the opposite solution. The main thing is that it allows you to use heat only when you really need it; or turn it off when you get home and turn it on when he returns. But it should also be noted that in a house with good thermal inertia it may be necessary less energy for heating, since it “quenches” thermal changes in the external environment.
5. we make a vertical sheathing from an antiseptic board 25x100mm under exterior finishing with the required pitch of 350-600mm (for example, for imitation timber, logs; facade tiles (artificial stone).
6. set the selected facade type. The figure below shows this scheme with one layer of insulation, which may be sufficient, depending on the density and size of the aerated concrete blocks.
Things change radically when it comes to summer. It is true that insulation protects against both heat and cold, but in practice, since the house still needs to be ventilated, if the insulation is internal, the air temperature quickly reaches the outside air. In other words, in the summer you can treat such a house only if there is an air conditioning system, otherwise it is an oven. For summer warmth, external insulation, combined with the specific thermal mass of a brick or stone home, has remarkable benefits in protecting walls from solar heat and allowing them to act as a "thermal flywheel", reducing temperature hikes between night and day.
Such a wall pie will make the house energy efficient - aerated concrete has thermal inertia, and, therefore, once warmed up, it will take a long time to cool down. A layer of 100 mm of stone wool on the outside is often enough to prevent the wall from freezing (to remove the dew point from aerated concrete). A ventilated facade will protect the insulation and aerated concrete wall from external influences. You can also line a house with aerated concrete and brick, but be sure to have a ventilated gap.
To the extreme, if the walls are very thick, you can do less than air conditioning, as you might do in the thick walls of ancient buildings such as the Ouarzazate Kasbah seen in the photo at the beginning. We can then deduce the amounts for the question of external or internal thermal insulation. The choice depends on the climatic and practical situation in which a person lives. In south-central Italy, the problem of summer heat is common in association with winter cold weather, especially given global warming.
In this case, external insulation is preferable and it would be good to build houses with thick walls, but this no longer needs to be saved. In the north or in the mountains, the opposite solution or internal insulation is preferable. He looked at me cow and said to me: Ma? But it's more like, "I'm sending someone to take some measurements and then I'll tell you where and if the plant should be installed."
This is what happens to the walls of a house made of aerated concrete, which were installed incorrectly (we did not do the laying, we only installed the facade) and were not protected from external influences for a long time:
When calculating the construction budget, do not forget to take everything into account additional work on insulation and installation of the facade, which must be done with a house made of aerated concrete (a house made of aerated concrete is not only the cost of the blocks themselves and their masonry).
Wherein a kind person told me that he would immediately send someone to take appropriate action. This happened several months ago, and of course no one saw it. This little story illustrates the reticent level of press that is still found in Italy regarding photovoltaics. However, the photovoltaic market in Italy has so far developed by so much small quantities, that for most installers it was easier to select locations for shading rather than having to undertake the enterprise to acquire competence in measuring and calculating the effect of shadows.
Now let's take a closer look at wooden (timber - laminated timber, profiled timber; log) houses:
When building a house, many people make the choice in favor of timber or logs, often unconsciously - because such a house was in the village with their grandmother, or for the surroundings - in the middle of the forest, on the shore of a lake far from the city, a log house will really look appropriate.
The situation in Germany and countries Northern Europe very different. One reason is that you will have to consider non-solar sites when designing installations. Another is that in countries where the sun is lower, shading is a much more difficult problem: in the north, in England or Ireland, the panels are even installed vertically and completely shading can be very difficult. Thus, there are also very complex and expensive shadow measurement systems. There was an article recently published about Photon International that took a good look at it.
But remember how the heating issue was resolved in such huts: in the middle there was a huge stove, weighing several tons. They cooked and slept on it, burned a huge amount of wood (the efficiency of such stoves is no more than 30%). Yes, having warmed it up once, it was possible not to heat it for a day, due to the high heat capacity of the brick and its thermal inertia - it takes a long time to warm up, but it also takes a long time to cool down, giving off heat to the room.
Many will say - you breathe in wooden house easy, comfortable life. Indeed, it is easy to breathe, due to the fact that a wooden house is not a monolithic tree - it has joints between the crowns. Even profiled timber is not without these shortcomings, despite the tongue-and-groove connection. In any type of house - frame, gas block and others, the issue of “ease of breathing” is a well-designed supply and exhaust ventilation.
Air from the street leaks through the inter-crown seal into the room, and when there is severe frosty weather outside, especially windy, too much cold air begins to flow in. Corners and even walls may begin to become moist due to dew (moisture in the room air, cooling on the cold surface of the wall, turns into water), until frost forms when the wall freezes completely.
There is no need to talk about the energy efficiency of such houses. Of course, there will be heat in it - you can heat a tent, but another thing is how much energy you will have to spend for this, and, consequently, money for the annual maintenance of such a house.
To create an energy-efficient house, you will need logs/beams half a meter thick. It is an undeniable fact that modern insulation made from stone wool based on rocks of the basalt group has much lower thermal conductivity (i.e., they better protect against cold and retain heat) in relation to wood. A house made of 150mm timber, in general, can be called a winter house with a big stretch - this is a house for a summer residence, with weekend visits during the cold season.
We also must not forget about shrinkage of the house. Any house made of logs, profiled or laminated timber will shrink. Therefore, finishing the house can begin no earlier than in a year or two. Otherwise, the finishing will prevent the house from shrinking and gaps will form between the crowns. The heating cannot be turned on for the first year - the log house must be allowed to settle so that the wood dries evenly and large cracks do not occur due to internal stresses.
Building a house from timber or logs is not advisable for the following reasons:
High construction and operating costs; such a house needs to be insulated according to the same scheme as aerated concrete (you cannot take into account only the cost of the log house);
Long waiting period before check-in;
Low energy efficiency if you do not additionally use modern insulation materials
You can spend your money much more efficiently by investing in a Frame House.
What is a frame house? The basis of such a house is the frame, as the name suggests. The frame can be made of wood (more details in the material - Forming a house frame), metal (we will not dwell on a metal frame - the technology is more suitable for the construction of hangars, commercial premises) or reinforced concrete ( frame-monolithic houses filled with gas blocks).
Filling the space in a wooden frame can be different - basalt (stone) wool, glass wool, ecowool, various backfill materials (sawdust, expanded clay), SIP panel.
The main options for filling the frame are basalt wool and SIP panel. Frame houses using a filler in the form of stone (basalt) wool is called in most cases Finnish or classic frames, and with filling SIP panels– Canadian.
Canadian houses are actively promoting themselves on the market - technology came to us relatively recently. The house is assembled from ready-made panels, which are polystyrene foam, to which is glued on both sides OSB board. It is important not to make a mistake with the manufacturer of these panels: panels glued together in a homemade way or from low-quality materials can not only not be durable, but also hazardous to health.
The main disadvantage of this technology is the lack of complete wooden frame with slopes, which affects the durability of the house. Wood is used only to connect the panels themselves, which also carry structural loads.
In a house built using SIP technology, you will have to seriously address the issue of sound insulation. Many builders of such houses prefer to arrange floors, internal partitions and roofing according to classical frame technology, leaving only the external enclosing structures assembled from SIP panels.
Houses built using SIP technology can be compared to Khrushchev-era buildings in urban areas. Yes, you can live, but the quality of life leaves much to be desired.
Classic frame houses have a number of advantages - each material performs exactly the function for which it is most suitable. Wood is responsible for structural strength, insulation ensures the energy efficiency of the house, and finishing materials provide aesthetic appeal.
A competent Classic Frame, assembled from the right materials, has established itself as reliable, durable, comfortable and energy-efficient housing; these houses have been tested by time - such buildings have stood for centuries. The cost of a classic frame, provided it is executed correctly (this design can be made obscenely cheaper, with all the ensuing negative consequences), may turn out to be slightly higher than houses made from SIP panels - this is explained by the greater complexity of the assembly process and the demanding qualifications of specialists, but the pleasure is life in such a house and the durability of the structure will significantly exceed the small difference in price.
Modern technologies construction country houses allow you to build a good Vacation home for every taste and budget.
When the Customer comes to construction company, he has a more or less clear idea of what kind of country house he would like to build, certain tastes and preferences. Some people definitely want a stone house, while others, on the contrary, will prefer a wooden one. And everyone would like the house to be beautiful, solid, warm and inexpensive. It is clear that compromises are inevitable: it is simply impossible to fully satisfy all wishes. In order to get as close as possible to the Customer’s ideal, there are various construction technologies.
Technologies for the construction of stone country houses
Stone country houses As a rule, they are chosen by those for whom their home is associated, first of all, with good quality, indestructibility, solidity, and reliability.
The most traditional type of stone construction is brickwork. It must be borne in mind that ceramic brick is a relatively “cold” material, and in order to feel comfortable in a brick house in winter and summer, fairly thick walls are required. According to modern building standards for heat retention, aimed primarily at saving energy resources, thickness brick walls two and a half bricks (64 cm) is not enough. Therefore, if you want to build a really warm brick house and not to spend extra money on heating, then brick walls need to be insulated.
Enclosing walls are always insulated from the outside; One of the simplest, most effective and practice-tested technologies is the so-called “ventilated façade”. The main brick wall takes on the load-bearing function and is responsible for strength, and heat conservation is provided by a layer of insulation ( mineral wool), necessarily separated from the outer decorative cladding by an air gap - a ventilation gap. The air circulating in the ventilation gap carries away excess water vapor, preventing condensation from falling out. This ventilated multi-layer construction, in which the functions various materials strictly separated from each other, provides good heat retention with high wall strength. In this case, the thickness of the load-bearing brick walls can be reduced, as a rule, to one and a half bricks (38 cm) - the safety margin will be quite sufficient for a two-three-story cottage.
Brickwork allows you to build walls of the most bizarre shapes, focusing on one or another architectural style. Masonry made of facing bricks(it is tied to the main wall with special ties that pierce the insulation layer right through), as well as facing with stone, tiles or decorative plaster, which are applied to the surface mounted on the frame structure. Combination different ways finishing allows you to get very beautiful, unique facades.
In order to avoid additional insulation and make do with a single-layer enclosing wall, while building a warm stone house, porous building materials were created - foam concrete and gas silicate blocks. They are also cheaper than ceramic bricks (per 1 square meter of wall). The technology for constructing country houses from foam concrete and gas silicate blocks differs significantly from the technology of brickwork.
It must be borne in mind that the construction of country houses from foam concrete or gas silicate blocks requires higher qualifications of designers and builders than construction from brick. Foam concrete and gas silicate are building materials developed to achieve a reasonable compromise between strength and heat conservation, which affects the specifics of their use. Designs of houses made of foam blocks take into account the properties of foam concrete and gas silicate and the increased technological requirements associated with them.
Gas silicate blocks from leading manufacturers, such as Hebel, have more stable physical and mechanical characteristics than foam concrete blocks, and very high geometric cutting accuracy. Therefore, they can be purchased without a “margin of strength”, guided by the specified brand in accordance with the project, and the masonry can be carried out not on cement mortar, and with special glue, gaining up to 20% in the thermal resistance of walls by reducing “cold bridges” in masonry joints.
Since blocks have less strength than bricks, under concrete floor slabs, mauerlat, above window and doorways it is necessary to arrange monolithic belts and lintels in order to evenly distribute the pressure on load-bearing walls. Each such belt needs additional insulation, and not so much to save heat, but because condensation will fall on the inner surface of the walls, where insufficiently insulated belts or lintels are located.
It is also necessary to take into account the high vapor permeability of foam concrete and gas silicate concrete. For exterior finishing, plaster with high vapor permeability should be used. Otherwise, moisture will condense at the boundary of the wall and the plaster layer, and the plaster will peel off.
The technology for constructing country houses from porous ceramic blocks allows you to do without additional insulation of external walls, while building a warm, strong and durable house.
These blocks have approximately the same thermal conductivity as foam concrete and gas silicate blocks, and in terms of strength (vertical) they are not inferior to solid bricks of the M100 brand. Such high strength makes it possible to avoid installing monolithic belts under floor slabs, which would have to be additionally insulated. The tongue-and-groove surface of the blocks prevents the vertical joints from blowing through and can significantly reduce the consumption of mortar during laying.
Thus, porous ceramic blocks make it possible to build fairly warm and durable walls 64 cm thick (main masonry block plus half-brick cladding). This material itself is not cheap, however, taking into account the above, the construction of country houses from porous ceramic blocks may ultimately turn out to be more profitable than using brickwork.
Technologies for the construction of country houses made of wood
There are people who are literally in love with a tree. And they, of course, think of their country house as nothing other than wooden. Modern technologies for constructing country houses can offer them a choice of several options for high-quality wooden cottages of various price categories. \r\n
At the very top of the hierarchy wooden houses there are houses made of laminated veneer lumber. These houses look extremely aesthetically pleasing, indicating high level the lives of their owners, impeccable taste and a modern understanding of the meaning of suburban existence. \r\n
The technology for constructing country houses from laminated veneer lumber is distinguished, first of all, by the high precision of factory production of wooden structures and their assembly, which occurs easily and quickly, with virtually no on-site finishing. This becomes possible thanks to the unique physical and mechanical properties of laminated veneer lumber.
This material, glued under pressure from dried lamellas and profiled on modern high-precision machines, is not subject to deformations associated with natural drying. Therefore, there are no problems with assembling the log frame kit delivered to the construction site. The profile of the beams allows you to assemble log houses that are well protected from blowing.
The assembled log house from laminated veneer lumber does not require long-term natural drying. Therefore, the entire construction cycle can be completed in one construction season. Walls made from dry material are only minimally susceptible to shrinkage and cracking. They should be protected from the harmful effects of moisture and solar ultraviolet radiation by sanding and covering the outside with a protective and decorative composition. The internal surfaces of laminated timber walls can also be sanded and, if desired, coated with a transparent glazing or colored coating composition.
Wooden houses built from rounded logs are closest in spirit to traditional wooden buildings, starting from princely mansions and churches - the pinnacles of Russian wooden architecture - and ending with five-walled village huts, which are also very beautiful in their own way.
Rounded log is a factory-made material. All crown logs are cut and numbered at the factory in accordance with the house design. However, assembling a log frame on a construction site, as a rule, does not involve on-site finishing.
When assembling a log house, the logs are laid on a modern tape inter-crown insulation, which is made from natural fiber - flax, jute or a mixture of them, or from a synthetic material.
Since the wood used in construction has natural moisture, when it dries, it forms cracks and becomes deformed. In particular, logs crack along gutters and special compensation cuts and “spread apart” in width. You have to put up with visible cracks (they give the building a somewhat patriarchal look), and due to the deformation of the logs, the log house has to be re-caulked to avoid blowing through the cracks between the crowns.
The problem of caulking concerns, first of all, aesthetics. When caulking the seams between the logs, a neat roller is formed. This has its own style, but it may not suit the Customer. In this case, the frame should be assembled using synthetic inter-crown insulation, which has a large range of thickness. This will avoid re-caulking the seams between the crowns.
The constructed log house is immediately placed under a roof - no matter whether temporary or permanent - to protect it from precipitation.
The technology for constructing country houses from rounded logs must take into account the shrinkage of the log house. It is best to give the constructed log house time to stand, preferably with natural ventilation. Therefore, it is best to complete the assembly of the log house in the spring, leaving several warm months for natural drying and shrinkage. After this, they begin to lay out utilities, install boxes in window and door openings, lay floors, external and internal rough and finishing. In this case, window and door blocks are attached not directly to the logs of the log house, but to vertical beams that slide freely in grooves cut into the ends of the logs. A gap is left above the block, sufficient to complete the shrinkage, which is filled with insulation - mineral or basalt wool. Vertical posts and beams, as well as stairs, are installed on independent adjustable screw supports.
In order to ensure normal mode shrinkage of the log house, to prevent deformation and excessive cracking of the logs, the heating system should be put into operation correctly. In a new wooden house, the temperature should be raised slowly, gradually and evenly in all rooms. When you first turn on the boiler, the temperature should not exceed 10-15 degrees until the entire house is completely warmed up.
In order for log walls, open to all atmospheric influences, to maintain health and beauty, they are treated with special protective and decorative compounds.
Profiled timber is essentially an analogue of a round section with a square section. Such houses are built by those who are in love with wood, but cannot afford a cottage made of laminated veneer lumber.
The technology for building country houses from profiled timber has one important difference. It would seem that the factory profile of the timber makes it easy to assemble strong and windproof walls that do not require re-caulking. However, this is not quite true. The timber delivered to the construction site becomes somewhat deformed when it dries, and it is not possible to assemble the walls with absolute precision. It is impossible to caulk them after assembly - the profile gets in the way. Therefore, the choice of high-quality inter-crown insulation used in the assembly of the log house becomes very important.
When drying, the profiled timber inevitably cracks - you have to put up with the cracks. This has a peculiar “rustic” aesthetic, because the natural appearance of wood is exactly that – with knots and cracks. Irreproachable appearance— the patrimony of laminated timber.
As soon as the log house is built and placed under the roof, it needs to be sanded and covered with a protective and decorative composition.
The technology for constructing country houses from unplaned timber with natural moisture makes it possible to build economical and very warm wooden houses, optimal price-quality ratio.
A log house made of unplaned timber implies its external and internal finishing. Logic dictates that exterior finishing can be easily combined with insulation. Log houses insulated using the “ventilated facade” technology have a number of advantages: high heat conservation, protection of the main walls of the log house from adverse atmospheric factors and, therefore, durability, excellent ecology. To assemble the main walls, you can use timber of the smallest possible cross-section, which ensures sufficient strength of the frame. (Usually unplaned timber with a cross-section of 150×150 mm is used.) Thus, it is possible to significantly reduce the cost of constructing a supporting box. When there is a need to update and repair facades, finishing material and the insulation can be easily replaced without dismantling the load-bearing walls.
The walls of the log house are cut simply and efficiently - into a “root tenon” without releases. This cutting method provides strong, windproof corners. The lower and upper crowns are tied, and the crowns are vertically fastened together with nails.
Next, sheathing bars are placed on the main walls of the log house. Sheets of mineral wool are placed between them. From the outside they are covered with a diffusion membrane. Counter batten bars are nailed on top of the sheathing in a perpendicular direction. This creates a ventilation gap in which air circulates freely. From the outside, facing material is attached to the counter-lattice, which also serves as a load-bearing frame. In this case, materials such as vinyl siding, block house, imitation timber. You can also line a timber house with a ventilated facade with facing bricks.
Technologies for building a combined country house
The widespread technology of building country houses with a stone bottom and a wooden top is associated not only with their expressive architectural appearance, but also with the fact that they are extremely functional. The principle of “stone bottom - wooden top” allows you to concentrate all potentially “flammable” rooms: furnace room, kitchen, fireplace room - in the basement stone floor, and living rooms - on the upper, environmentally friendly, “breathing” wooden floor. A wooden building raised high from the ground is less susceptible to the destructive effects of moisture.
The development of the construction of combined country houses is largely associated with the deep-rooted fashion for the Alpine “chalet” style, although, in fairness, it should be noted that in ancient times, Russian merchants placed wooden huts on high stone plinths. Houses built in the “chalet” style are distinguished on the outside by large overhangs of a gable sloping roof, which well protect the walls from precipitation, spacious terraces protruding beyond the perimeter of the house, overhanging or resting on columns, balconies hiding under the roof overhangs, and inside - attic floor with sloping ceiling, thoughtful layout with a public area and kitchen in ground floor and bedrooms upstairs.
For the construction of a stone base and wooden top of a combined house, all technologies for constructing country houses described above are applicable.
Important components of country house construction technologies include foundation construction technologies, as well as roofing, exterior and interior decoration. These issues are discussed in special articles posted on the site.
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