Strong inexpensive warm house. Balcony slabs and other structures. Advantages of mineral wool

Surely, every owner understands that heat loss in the house in winter leads to overspending of utility bills. You have to pay twice or even three times for gas, electricity or solid fuel, which is used to heat the building. And here you should think about how to make the house warm, so that later it would be comfortable both from staying in such a building and from significant savings in the family budget.

Professionals have proven that the most thorough heat losses occur in the following areas:

• Floor (in the case of a wooden cottage with a floor along the logs);
• Ceiling (if laid ceiling beams and on them attic floor boards;
• Old windows and doors, from which it follows that a house with old frames is blown through with all the winds;
• And, of course, the walls of the house themselves, if during the construction they were not properly insulated.

Important: it is possible to insulate erected houses around the perimeter only from the outside. This technology ensures normal air exchange in case of evaporation formation between the wall of the building and the insulation. If the house is insulated from the inside, then later this can lead to the formation of excess condensate and further decay of the walls under the influence of the fungus.

Thanks to this design, the support part can be made from any mineral material used for wall construction. Typically, however, the most durable materials- silicates, bricks, ceramic hollows - chosen because the construction of three-layer walls only makes sense if you need to combine high strength with good thermal insulation. Another reason for building three-layer walls may be the need for good sound insulation. In this regard, partitions made using this technology are unmatched.

When warming the cottage is not worth saving. After all, high-quality work carried out will pay off after two or three years of operation of the house. And after that, a noticeable increase in the family budget will begin. About how to build warm house, in our material below.

Replacement of windows and doors

For any house, whether it is a stone structure or a wooden one, the presence of old door and window frames threatens to lose heat. And no matter how much you seal the cracks, how much you do not stuff cotton wool and foam rubber into them, in any case, at the slightest wind, the microclimate in the house will be disturbed under the influence of the temperature. Therefore, the most important thing when warming a house is the replacement of windows and doors. It is better if these are double-glazed windows for 3-5 cameras, and installed by professionals. Masters perform work without distortions and technological disturbances, which, in turn, plays an important role in warming the cottage.

Important: when installing new windows, you can additionally insulate the slopes. What to make insulation from, you decide. But most often it is mineral wool. Such a solution is a plus for high-quality insulation of the entire cottage.

If doors are being replaced, it is advisable to align the geometry doorway. The doors themselves can be doubled. So less heat will escape through the door leaf. Yes, and soundproofing will be higher.

We warm the wooden house

The walls of a wooden cottage are most susceptible to the movement of air masses through their cracks. Therefore, it is worth taking care of high-quality insulation of all joints between logs or timber. To do this, use a special sealant, which is applied to the joints according to the technology.

Important: this method of insulation is used only for a newly built house, if there is no desire to spoil its attractive appearance. If the hut is an old log or timber hut, but at the same time it stands firmly and reliably, and you are not going to build a new model house, then you can not only insulate the house, but also make it more attractive. To do this, use the following technology below.

However, it is not the number of layers, but the quality of the carrier materials and thermal insulation that determines its thermal insulation. The wrong choice can cause a potentially warm sandwich wall to become colder than a monolithic partition wall. The thermal insulation of three-layer walls is similar to that of a two-layer one. However, their facade is much more resistant to damage.

A three-layer wall can be installed in two ways - one step or two steps. Due to higher costs, the second method is rarely used. In the first method, the carrier layer, insulation and façade are made at the same time. Working in two steps starts with the laying of the carrier layer, and after the roof covering, facade insulation and layer.

Tip: Use only mineral wool to insulate wooden walls, as it tends to breathe. This means that the walls wooden house will not rot under the influence of the resulting perspiration on them.

So, the insulation of the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool is performed as follows:

• First, all walls are treated with an antiseptic 1-2 times with drying breaks between each layer. In this case, the corners and the crown of the house should be especially carefully processed. Work is best done in dry, warm weather.
• After the antiseptic is completely dry, the walls are covered with a layer of waterproofing with a vapor-permeable layer. At the same time, the vapor-permeable (perforated) side must be turned towards the wood, and the glossy (waterproofing) side should be laid with mineral wool slabs. Waterproofing is laid on the walls with an overlap, fixing it with construction tape at the joints and brackets around the perimeter.
• Now, a vertical crate of beams with a section equal to the thickness of the mineral wool slabs is stuffed onto the walls. The step of the arrangement of the bars can be done 2-3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation sheet. Thus, it will be possible to lay wool slabs without additional fastening (by surprise).
• The top of the mineral wool is covered with another layer of waterproofing with a vapor-permeable layer. Here, the vapor-permeable surface should face the insulation, and the glossy surface should look out. The waterproofing is also fixed with an overlap, gluing the joints with adhesive tape.
• On top of the arranged waterproofing, a ventilated frame of small cross-section bars is attached. The distance between the insulation and subsequent finishing in this way should be at least 5 cm.
• And in last turn everything is covered with decorative wood or other trim, which completely transforms the old house.

We warm the floor in a wooden house

So that the insulation of the walls of a wooden house does not go to waste, you can additionally insulate the floor. To do this, you will have to dismantle the boards up to the lag. The rest of the work will look like this:

• A layer of waterproofing material is laid on the soil (subfloor) freed and cleared of debris, with the vapor barrier up and the glossy side down.
• Expanded clay of different fractions is poured onto the waterproofing. Such material is a very good insulation that maintains dryness in the house.
• From above, expanded clay or other insulating material is covered with a waterproofing layer and the floor boards are fixed back.

We warm the attic in a wooden house

• The attic in a wooden cottage is insulated using floor technology. That is, first, a waterproofing layer is laid on the attic floor boards with a vapor barrier layer to the boards. After that, wooden logs are laid on the floor of the attic in increments of 50-70 cm.
• Insulating material is mounted between the lags. It can be mineral wool, extruded polystyrene, expanded clay, etc.
• The insulation is covered with waterproofing from above and the floor is leveled with plywood boards or floorboards.

Important: attic insulation allows you to save heat in the house by 20-40%, since heat goes up.

The change will not be a problem if you can use them in the chosen technology - worse when it results in the need to change, for example, the foundation, the dimensions of the building. Based on catalog prices alone, without discounting or promotion, the cost of building walls in different technologies is very similar. Of course, you cannot compare walls of different finishes - we always need to check how much they will cost for heating them, finishing the facades, using special fittings or lintels.

Passive house, on which the article is devoted, - one-story building. It was built after patching in a typical directory. And the shape of the house is different from the standards of passive buildings. We deliberately left the two-story building, so the attic is large, but useless. Due to the typical design, we completely changed the layout of the rooms and left the garage, which was originally located in a building block. For several years we have been working on the concept of construction and technical details.

We warm the stone house

How to build a warm house at the stage of its installation, many professionals and private craftsmen know. But how to make the house warmer during its real operation, we will consider below.

Note that a stone house can be insulated in three ways:

• Outside . Considered the most the best option, since it is convenient to perform work, and the walls are reliably protected from the formation of mold and fungus.
• Inside . This method spends not only time and energy, but also the usable area of ​​​​the room. Therefore, insulation from the inside is not as common as the outside.
• Intra-wall insulation. Such technology is permissible only at the stage of building a house, when expanded clay is poured between two walls, thereby forming the walls of the house according to the principle of a pie.

We will consider the external insulation of a stone house.

As a heater, you can use the following materials:

• Mineral wool in slabs;
• extruded polystyrene;
• Styrofoam ordinary in plates;
• Cork slabs;
• Expanded clay;
• Warm plaster.

Important: but in any case, when insulating the house from the outside, all layers of the cake should be arranged in such a way that the vapor permeability of each next layer of material increases in the direction from the walls of the house to the edge of the finish.

Do you think that your house or apartment is too warm? And it didn't even cost me too much. Yes, but the cost is horrendous. According to the European Commission, building a home represents only about 20 percent of the cost of ownership. The rest is the cost of operation and maintenance. It is clear that he is paying to build a very warm house immediately, and not fight high bills for heating it.

When thinking about an energy efficient home, you need to start at the design stage. A suitable architecture is a building with a straight compact body with a gable roof. Unfortunately, there are still only a few passive house designs available. It is very important to orient the house on the parcel to the world - it is ideal when the entrance is located on the north side and on the terrace from the south. Consider ventilation with heat recovery, a highly efficient heating system, and using natural energy sources to heat hot water.

Wall insulation work brick house lead by the following technology:

• The walls of the building are completely cleaned of dust, dirt and debris. If cracks are found in the masonry, they should be covered with a cement mixture.
• After that, the stone walls, together with the plinth, are primed in one or two passes with drying intervals.
• Now you can attach heat-insulating material to the walls. As a rule, it is mineral wool or polystyrene. The plates are attached to the walls either with glue, pointwise placing it on a sheet of insulation, or with dowels. The slabs are placed close to each other in a checkerboard pattern (that is, ligated like brickwork).
• Next, a reinforcing mesh is attached over the mounted insulation, on which decorative plaster is subsequently applied.

Important: the insulation boards should be placed on the wall strictly from the bottom up. Thus, the stability of the entire insulation layer will be ensured.

• At the very end, the stone house is plastered decorative plaster or lined with stone tiles. As you can see, it is possible and necessary to build a warm house without delay.

Floor insulation in a stone house

If there is a desire, then it is possible to insulate the floors in the built stone house. Although it is best to do this at the stage of building a cottage.

For high-quality floor insulation in a finished building, you either have to raise the floor along a concrete screed on logs, which will take up some space in the room, or dismantle the old screed and equip a new one with insulation.

• If the first option is chosen, then you must first clean the floor from dust and dirt and prime it.
• After that, a layer of waterproofing material is laid on the floor with 10 cm on each side of the walls.
• Wooden logs are laid on top in increments equal to the width thermal insulation boards. If expanded clay is used as a heater, then the logs are laid in increments of about 70 cm.
• A heater is arranged between the laid lags and covered with a hydro-vapor barrier material towards the heater with a vapor barrier face.
• It remains to lay the plywood boards and lay the finish flooring.

If it is decided to dismantle the old screed, then it must be removed down to the ground. After that, a sand and gravel cushion is poured, which is well compacted. Waterproofing is laid on top of sand and gravel and everything is covered with expanded clay.

To form a new screed, you can use a dry mix. It is qualitatively distributed over the floor and forms a reliable foundation. It remains to cover the floor with plywood shields, placing them in a checkerboard pattern and leaving gaps between the joints for the natural expansion of the tree from temperature changes.

Important: do not neglect the insulation of the attic of a stone house. Here, work is carried out by analogy with floor insulation along the logs. The work done and the volume done will allow you to feel all the delights warm home already with the onset of the first cold weather. And the most severe winter will break its teeth on your new fortress.

As you can see, building a house with good insulation is both profitable and comfortable for all households.

The desire to build a warm house is quite natural for the inhabitants of our region, where the heating period lasts three-fifths of the year, and heating costs amount to tens of thousands of rubles.

Nobody wants to spend a significant part of the family budget on heating and at the same time actually heat the street, and the task of building a warm house has now become one of the most urgent. Among the most popular were building materials with low thermal conductivity, which can make the house warm and save money spent on heating.

Which material is the warmest

If we compare building materials in terms of such an indicator as thermal conductivity, then, naturally, heaters will be at the top of the rating, structural and thermal insulation materials in the middle, and structural materials will close the rating. During the construction of the walls of the house, structural and thermal insulation materials are used together in frame structures, and structural and thermal insulation, in theory, are self-sufficient, although they can, if necessary, be additionally insulated or strengthened. Among heat-insulating materials, polyurethane is the warmest, and among structural and heat-insulating materials, aerated concrete of the D300 grade has the best performance. Full ranking of common building materials according to such an indicator as thermal conductivity is given in table 1.

Thin from warm and thick from cold

The fact of using a material for construction with low thermal conductivity, unfortunately, does not guarantee that the house will turn out to be warm. In addition to thermal conductivity, the thickness of the material is important, as well as the climatic zone in which this house will be built. The ratio of the thickness of the material to its thermal conductivity characterizes such a parameter as resistance to heat transfer. For the climatic zone, which includes St. Petersburg and the Leningrad Region, the resistance to heat transfer of the walls of houses should be as follows:

• Houses intended for seasonal living (summer houses) - not lower than R=1.32 m²×K/W.
• Houses for year-round use (residential buildings) - not lower than R = 1.94 m² × K / W.
• Energy efficient houses - not lower than R=3.08 m²×K/W.

Thus, to determine how thick you need one or another type thermal insulation material, you need to multiply the heat transfer resistance that you want to get by the thermal conductivity of the material under operating conditions. The product will be the thickness of the thermal insulation material (in meters) that you need. For example, we want to build a house that complies with energy efficiency standards, which means that we must achieve a heat transfer resistance of at least 3.08 m² × K / W. The warmest structural and heat-insulating material is aerated concrete. The thermal conductivity of the most common brand D400 is 0.12 W/(m·K). Multiplying these values, we get the desired thickness of 0.3696 meters, or 370 mm. The closest standard aerated concrete block D400 has a thickness of 375 mm, which even slightly exceeds the current norms.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to build a house that meets energy efficiency standards from wood, because, according to the calculation, a wooden wall will have to be 400 mm thick. Neither timber of natural humidity, nor glued laminated timber of such thickness are produced. To comply with the standards, you will have to use a multi-layer structure in which the wooden walls will have additional insulation. Heat transfer resistance is calculated by dividing the thickness of the material (in meters) by its thermal conductivity. After that, it remains only to add up the obtained heat transfer resistances for the individual layers. If we take the optimal thickness of a wooden wall in terms of price and structural strength of 150 mm, then it will have a heat transfer resistance of 1.15 m² × K / W. 100 mm thick mineral wool works well as insulation for a wooden wall, which will add another 2.63 m²×K/W. As a result, the total resistance to heat transfer will more than cover the required value.

In the case of building a house using SIP technology, the calculations will be even more complicated, since the SIP panels themselves are a multilayer material (a sheet of polystyrene foam between two sheets of OSB), and the walls of the house from SIP panels have a heterogeneous structure (foam polystyrene sheets alternate with wooden racks) . In theory, it is necessary to calculate the thermal conductivity of each of the layers and add them up, and then calculate the ratio of the area that falls on the polystyrene foam and the racks. However, since expanded polystyrene has several times lower thermal conductivity compared to wooden materials, only its heat transfer resistance can be calculated, and the effect on the final heat transfer resistance wooden materials just ignore. For SIP panels, PSB-S-25 expanded polystyrene with a thermal conductivity of 0.035 W / (m × K) is usually used, which means that in order to comply with energy efficiency standards, we need a 107 mm thick expanded polystyrene layer. A standard SIP panel with the parameter closest to this value will have a thickness of 174 mm (150 mm polystyrene foam + two 12 mm thick OSB sheets). The same logic is reasonable to apply to other multi-layer structures, such as monolithic houses built using fixed formwork.

In table 2, we calculated at what wall thickness the energy efficiency standard will be achieved.

Table 2. Wall thicknesses for compliance with thermal engineering standards for the most popular materials. The nearest standard material thickness is indicated in brackets.

Of course, for structural and heat-insulating materials (wood, aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete blocks, porous ceramic stones, wood concrete, hollow brick) thickness bearing walls must correspond not only to thermal engineering, but also to structural loads.

The structure of heat loss at home

In a properly designed house, heat loss through walls accounts for only about a quarter of all heat loss at home, another quarter of heat loss is due to ceilings and roofing, the remaining half is accounted for by windows, doors and ventilation.

The choice of materials for floor insulation is not as wide as for walls. For insulation of floors, mineral wool insulation is mainly used, a little less often ecowool and expanded polystyrene. but modern technologies allow you to insulate floors and lightweight concrete, for example, monolithic foam concrete.

In prefabricated monolithic ceilings, hollow blocks of expanded clay concrete, porous ceramics or aerated concrete can be used. Since heat tends to rise up, for uniform insulation of the house, the heat transfer resistance of the heat-insulating material in the basement and attic floors should be one third greater than in the walls. To obtain the desired thickness of the material in the floor, the thickness given in the table is sufficient. wall material increase by a third. For example, if the ceiling is made of SIP panels, you should take a SIP panel with a thickness of 155 mm polystyrene foam. Since 5 mm is not particularly critical, a standard SIP panel with a thickness of 150 mm polystyrene foam (SIP panel thickness 174 mm) is quite suitable.

It is extremely difficult to reduce heat loss through windows, since even a double-glazed window has a coefficient of resistance to heat transfer of 0.47 m² × K / W, which is equivalent to wooden wall only 53 mm thick. The use of glass with special energy-saving coatings in double-glazed windows and the replacement of air in the chambers with argon can improve this figure to 0.74 m² × K / W, but this is also frankly small compared to the heat transfer resistance of walls and ceilings. To insulate doors, the same heaters are used as for wall insulation, but technologically the doors cannot be made as thick as the walls, and more heat is lost through them. The traditional way out is to install double street doors with a vestibule between them. However, despite the relatively small area of ​​windows and doors, heat loss through them is almost the same as through walls, the area of ​​which is many times larger.

To reduce heat loss through ventilation, recuperators can be used that heat the air coming from the street due to the heat contained in the air removed from the room. Unfortunately, the efficiency of such devices is not as high as we would like, besides, the fans operating in them are noisy and consume electricity, and the payback period due to the high price is calculated in years.

Return on investment in insulation

In theory, a one-time investment in more efficient home insulation should pay off over time by reducing fixed heating costs. In fact, this statement remains true only up to a certain limit, after which further investments in insulation will not be able to pay off before the end of the life of the house. In order to assess what budget for home insulation will be justified in your case, you first need to get information about the possible amount of annual home heating costs, which in turn will depend mainly on the prices for the cheapest energy source available to you. If we leave out the cost of connection and equipment, then the annual heating costs of a 100-meter house, which corresponds to the concept of a residential building (energy costs for heating about 300 kWh / (m² year)), can be as follows:

• natural gas - 18 thousand rubles;
• heat pump - 19 thousand rubles;
• coal - 21 thousand rubles;
• birch firewood - 55 thousand rubles;
• pellets - 66 thousand rubles;
• liquefied gas (gas tank) - 70 thousand rubles;
• diesel fuel - 75 thousand rubles;
• electric heaters - 76 thousand rubles.

Thus, the more expensive the energy resources at your disposal, the more reasonable it is to spend money on reducing heat loss in your home. That is, in order to bring the house given as an example to the level of energy efficiency (expending 150 kWh per square meter of house area per year on heating), with a payback period of, for example, 10 years, for those who heat the house with natural gas, there will be a budget of 90 thousand rubles, and those who heat with electricity will have 380 thousand. At the same time, this budget should, if possible, be evenly distributed among all sources of heat loss: external walls, ceilings, ventilation, windows and doors. This means that if only the outer walls of the house are made twice as warm, heating costs will decrease not by two or four times, but by only one eighth, that is, by 12.5 percent.

conclusions

Any Vacation home, designed for year-round use, must at least meet the sanitary and hygienic standards for our region, and preferably meet the energy efficiency parameters. However, when choosing a material for building a house, one must be aware that investments in the energy efficiency of a house will have a chance to return in the form of energy savings only up to a certain limit. This limit, after which further investments in insulation will be unprofitable, directly depends on the cost of the fuel used to heat the house. There is no doubt that energy prices, be it electricity, gas or firewood, will only rise. However, it is equally obvious that over time new options for home heating will appear, such as, for example, heat pumps, which allow you to spend almost the same amount on heating a house as when using mains gas.

In other words, if the house has already been built and it is warm enough to meet sanitary and hygienic standards, then it will be profitable to carry out measures for its additional insulation only if it is impossible to use cheap energy sources for heating it. With regard to new construction, the situation is simpler here, since many of the manufacturers of building materials have calculated the dimensions of their products in such a way that the walls built from it automatically turn out to comply with energy efficiency standards. Such products include, for example, all D300 aerated concrete blocks, D400 aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 375 mm, SIP panels with a thickness of 174 mm, multi-slotted caramsite concrete blocks with a thickness of 400 mm, most elements of multi-layer insulated structures (thermal beam, fixed formwork, Teplodom and Lakka blocks).